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Heya Breakthru, I love the Copper MOD you inspired me to build a while back, but I am itching to start a VV version and I was wondering if this regulator could be used in this http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,177.0.html MOD. I would like to have the Evercool in a single battery configuration, I just don't know if it will work...Thanks
I have now made this circuit first time with tantalum caps then looking through the data sheet on Ti they said not to use tantalum, instead electrolytic with low esr (audio standard). So made the second using electrolytic and it seems fine no different in fact from the first i made.
An electrolytic has a reservoir and smoothing effect which I think is correct, and the ceramic would just filter the ripple. Correct me if I'm off base here With that said, wouldn't the electrolytic be the better choice if you were using just one because it would aid in battery life. I don't think the ceramic has a reservoir capability ... or does it?
I so want to build one of these copper mods. definitely a VV version - either the EverCool with a Digital pot, or Other VV shown elsewhere on this forum....My question is this....what technique do people use to join together the copper?Braze?Silver Solder?WB Weld?Copper Glue for Plumping Fittings (Sold at some supply houses)expoxy?ty I've seen videos on the "flash light" mods that usually the 510 connector (or other) are brazed on with lead free solder.Anyone have any comments Pro's / Con's for each technique...I have access to all off the above...I like the Idea of Silver Soldering for strength and conductivity, but may end up not looking very pretty.Waiting for my free samples from TI and gathering up the other parts to make one these awesome Mods.Thanks for any help or suggestions.
I've seen videos on the "flash light" mods that usually the 510 connector (or other) are brazed on with lead free solder.
P.S.I haven't used a Tantalum in a booster in quite awhile. I found some short Aluminum that fit nicely. A bit wider than the tantalum.
They look nicely compact, I'll go with them - thanks.Ive got another question I'm afraid - The perennial pot issue - Most people (including Evolv!) seem to use the blue trimmer type, despite the specs showing a 200 turn rotational life - Does this matter in actual use, or do people find that there's no problem?
The 510 connector is soldered to the cap. Remove the center post and insulator so not to melt it. The copper absorbs a lot of heat. I used a torch to heat the copper cap first and pressed the 510 conn in and heated a little more then applied a tiny amount of solder around the connector. Be careful applying solder as it will run on to exposed copper and won't clean off.
Great work Breaktru!! I have been working with a few different regulators and the 8100 seems to be the best efficiency wise. One question. Where do you get the board you used for the caps and resistor? I buy most of my stuff from mouser but cant seem to find anything of size there. Thanks in advanced and keep up the excellent work
Thanks ragin, The board used in the photos were from Madvapes: http://www.madvapes.com/Mini-Pre-Cut-Interconnect-Circuit-Board_p_2567.htmlBut you can use any circuit board and cut it down to the desired size. You can use the larger boards from Mouser, Digikey, Radio Shack....etc...
Is their anyway to test the 8100 before final product? I dont have a breadboard before anyone answers breadboard I know I know I need to get one.
I have circuit board, maybe i damaged it with heat or something else, I have another maybe I will try it. VI is where it should be just nothing on fire. IS the 0806 the same wiring?
Voltage in is good, everything is where it should be except when I go to "fire" the chip does nothing. I may have damaged it when soldering it.
Breaktru, where did you get that pot at, I'm having problems finding a decent sized trimmer @200ohms. Also, does anyone make a nice 510 connector, preferable something that has a nut on the other end, for mounting? I'm going to jam this circuit into a custom wood box, I just don't want to have to hotglue or epoxy it in place. Also, only resistors MCM had on hand were 220ohm, and as I read it, that will just raise the max output voltage a little above 6.1VDC, correct?