Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: thejewk on June 27, 2014, 05:55:08 AM
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Hi folks. Been working on a couple of unregulated box mods, using the Hammond 1590G and 2x18650s. I am planning on making a series mod next, but I have just finished up with building the internals of a parallel box.
Here it is:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14325246999_b4f06f9df1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nPSCRe)IMG_0287 (https://flic.kr/p/nPSCRe) by thejewk (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
I built it with performance in mind, and I think I have achieved what I set out for.
Running a 0.69 ohm coil, and measuring the voltage with a multimeter at the deck posts of the atty, it's dropping 0.24V. That's significantly better than any mech I have tried, so I am pleased with that, but I would like to compare it to the performance of other unregulated mods that people have made to see where it could be improved, or just to get a comparison.
Thanks
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That looks great...haven't built my first mod yet but I'd like to copy your's
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Go ahead, there's no secrets. I used 14 AWG for the current carrying wire, and a mosfet to power the atty with the push button and slide switch. The 510 is a standard 510 to 510 adapter beefed up with a bolt and some insulators rather than using the stock grommet. Next time I will be using one of Stealthvape's new 510s, and I am thinking of getting rid of the voltmeter and mounting the switch on the top of the box. Should give me a little more room to work with.
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I'm very new to electronics but learning fast why use a MOSFET at all?
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Because that switch is only good for about 3 amps and the slide switch for a master on/off is rated at about half an amp. They also have resistance which contributes to voltage drop. Mosfets can carry large amounts of current and have very little internal resistance which helps to make them perform well.
I simply would not try to put 20 amps or so through a switch. If it fails and fails on, you could be in trouble.
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True, but you also have to carefully select your MOSFETs to get those low losses. They can vary over a pretty wide range and some can be much more lossy than others. The really low resistance ones have considerably less resistance than a mechanical switch and they always have that resistance. It doesn't go up with wear like a mechanical switch.
MOSFETs still need some kind of switch to control them, but there's a range of options there. You can use a high cycle life tactile, you can use a resistive touch sensor, or a capacitive touch senser via an MCU. Touch sensors are great since they never wear out. The high cycle life tactiles have greatly better longevity than than a high current switch, but even those wear out eventually.
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Yes sorry, didn't mean to imply that you could use any MOSFET.
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Nice mech
wow 14ga thats a monster fer sure
Craig whats a really good mosfet for a mech and regulated series mod I know beating a dead horse, but I know ya got it bookmarked hopefully. lol
Solderable :laughing2:.. If not bookmarked never mind lol Ill go hunting search, know ya said it before..
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could I just use at 10 amp. Button and no slide switch?
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Craig whats a really good mosfet for a mech and regulated series mod
This one is the best P-channel I've found. I tend to use the P-channels for regular on/off switches, it's just easier to switch the high side than the low side; http://www.vishay.com/docs/62860/si7157dp.pdf
Here's a really good N-channel; http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/csd17559q5.pdf
These are leadless packages so you have to make a little host board for them, but if you want the best ones, that's what you have to do. It doesn't seem like a deal breaker to me, but it seems to be for some. My advice is to just get used to parts like that. All the latest and greatest parts come in a leadless package or a small leaded SMD package. Through-hole is pretty much dead now, very few new component designs are being released in that package type.
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could I just use at 10 amp. Button and no slide switch?
You have to look at the voltage rating as well. I've used buttons that are rated 3A @ 125V they can hold up to much higher amperage using 4.2V
See: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,162.msg13234.html#msg13234 (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,162.msg13234.html#msg13234)
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:thumbsup:
Sorry hijack jewk but great info for us all..
Thanks again,
I had totally forgotten that ti and vishay fet that you recommended for mamu and her way of doing it, yeah thats doable.
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?topic=1015.100
Reply #124
Making some new mods soon getting order ready, parts etc..
Gotta make a touch unit then my cloning break mods are done cept the mcu/dna, I have copper pipe & parts but a little different, 08100 w/ wood dowel, 3/4" copper pipe hybrid touch--incoming eventually lol.
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I welcome the hijacks visus, dialogue on these subjects is a good thing surely.
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This one is the best P-channel I've found. I tend to use the P-channels for regular on/off switches, it's just easier to switch the high side than the low side; http://www.vishay.com/docs/62860/si7157dp.pdf
Here's a really good N-channel; http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/csd17559q5.pdf
These are leadless packages so you have to make a little host board for them, but if you want the best ones, that's what you have to do. It doesn't seem like a deal breaker to me, but it seems to be for some. My advice is to just get used to parts like that. All the latest and greatest parts come in a leadless package or a small leaded SMD package. Through-hole is pretty much dead now, very few new component designs are being released in that package type.
I am ordering some parts samples etc. making a new mods next few months and want to use one of the fets you listed.
What pulldown resistor would ya suggest to shut either fet down 15k sound good for both 3.7 and 7.4 or try different r starting from 1k?
I've been reading up on how to do the math and the biggest concensus is that, breadboard it, start from 1k -1m lol..
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15k should be good.
It's a pretty liberal thing on the pull-down or pull-up values. You don't want to go too high or you can have issue with gate charge or gate leakage but that's like above 10 mega-Ohms. If you go too low you can have issue with power consumption. Generally, anything between 4.7k and 47k is fine, but that's not a hard and fast rule either. Personally, I tend to use 10k with the single battery stuff to keep the effect of gate charge minimal (higher resistance slows the switch down), but it's not a critical thing at all. For higher voltage you may want to use a somewhat higher resistance.
Generally you don't have to concern yourself with the dynamic MOSFET stuff for a simple power switch. When you get into high speed switching, then all that stuff becomes considerable. In that case, the amount of resistance involved in driving the gate becomes critical.
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Go ahead, there's no secrets. I used 14 AWG for the current carrying wire, and a mosfet to power the atty with the push button and slide switch. The 510 is a standard 510 to 510 adapter beefed up with a bolt and some insulators rather than using the stock grommet. Next time I will be using one of Stealthvape's new 510s, and I am thinking of getting rid of the voltmeter and mounting the switch on the top of the box. Should give me a little more room to work with.
What mosfet was used in this particular Mod??
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Woot 15k I have a boatload of 15k resistors.
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What mosfet was used in this particular Mod??
I used this one:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1688590
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(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2897/14391739590_64857a89f4.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nVKqMd)DSCF6875 (https://flic.kr/p/nVKqMd) by thejewk (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/14646553605_8df7eecc0d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ojgq7i)IMG_0305[1] (https://flic.kr/p/ojgq7i) by thejewk (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5478/14623584906_3d6bf6c6ba.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oheGjf)IMG_0306[1] (https://flic.kr/p/oheGjf) by thejewk (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Here's a couple of pics of a series build I have been making for some power vaping. Nice and compact, with excellent performance. Testing out a series 18650 mod takes some creativity in coil making when you are used to coiling for 4.2v or thereabouts.
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Hi folks. Been working on a couple of unregulated box mods, using the Hammond 1590G and 2x18650s. I am planning on making a series mod next, but I have just finished up with building the internals of a parallel box.
Here it is:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14325246999_b4f06f9df1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nPSCRe)IMG_0287 (https://flic.kr/p/nPSCRe) by thejewk (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
I built it with performance in mind, and I think I have achieved what I set out for.
Running a 0.69 ohm coil, and measuring the voltage with a multimeter at the deck posts of the atty, it's dropping 0.24V. That's significantly better than any mech I have tried, so I am pleased with that, but I would like to compare it to the performance of other unregulated mods that people have made to see where it could be improved, or just to get a comparison.
Thanks
Can I see a schematic for this parallel build please?
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Can I see a schematic for this parallel build please?
drawing for a very similar mod here: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,616.msg16713.html#msg16713
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I'm using two of the same mosfets in parallel for a higher amp limit. 6x750mAh LiPos in parallel gives me a a voltage drop of 0.25V with a 0.16ohm coil.
I think the only way you'll get a lower voltage drop is to parallel up the cells more and/or use an even lower Rds on fet.
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Not trying to threadjack, but I saw this was about unregulated boxes & was hoping I could get a helpful answer.
What's the best quality or highest amp rated pushbutton for building a Mech Box running dual 18650's in parallel? I'm wanting a button that's not too huge, but willing to look at all options and I don't wanna go over $30 though...I'll be using a 1590B, Keystone 1048 and the FDV510...I'll wanna safely vape .15 ohms which is 117 watts and 28 amps at 4.2v. and maybe lower ohms if possible.
Please LMK of any nice buttons that can handle some high amps...
Thanks in Advance Guys
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If you are looking for a dome type button switch THIS ONE (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IQR3V222/679-3170-ND/3478841) is rated at 4A @ 48VDC which breaks down to approximately 45A @ 4.2VDC. Unfortunately the button is huge at 15.9mm diameter.
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This one is the best P-channel I've found. I tend to use the P-channels for regular on/off switches, it's just easier to switch the high side than the low side; http://www.vishay.com/docs/62860/si7157dp.pdf
Here's a really good N-channel; http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/csd17559q5.pdf
These are leadless packages so you have to make a little host board for them, but if you want the best ones, that's what you have to do. It doesn't seem like a deal breaker to me, but it seems to be for some. My advice is to just get used to parts like that. All the latest and greatest parts come in a leadless package or a small leaded SMD package. Through-hole is pretty much dead now, very few new component designs are being released in that package type.
Sorry to hijack the hijack but would a IRL3803PBF FET (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=156098626&uq=635447627557460125) work for a single 18650 unregulated mod. I unfortunately don't have the ability to use the lead-less package FETs that you listed before.
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Getting a "not found" on that. Someone mentioned a TO-220 part which looks to be the best one I've seen so far in a leaded package;
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/PSMN1R9-40PL.pdf
I looked at the other NXP parts and this one might even be better;
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/PSMN1R1-30PL.pdf
Not sure on this one since the graduations aren't the same for the "on state versus gate-source voltage" chart. Maybe someone with better eyes can tell for sure.
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what about these mosfets from ti they look like the would work in a unregulated box
CSD17501Q5A
CSD17506Q5A
CSD17505Q5A
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what about these mosfets from ti they look like the would work in a unregulated box
CSD17501Q5A
CSD17506Q5A
CSD17505Q5A
Max power: 3.2 watts
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Getting a "not found" on that.
Sorry about that. This is a link to the datasheet. http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irl3803pbf.pdf
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what about these mosfets from ti they look like the would work in a unregulated box
CSD17501Q5A
CSD17506Q5A
CSD17505Q5A
TI makes some really nice N-channel MOSFETs. I like the TI CSD17501Q5A especially, but for use in a switching regulator not as a main power switch. It's a very fast transistor with low gate charge, low on-state resistance, and fairly low threshold voltage. However, since speed is not a factor with a user power switch, you want to use simply the lowest on-state resistance with the right gate-source threshold for the battery configuration (single or series cells). In that case, the best one for a single cell would be the CSD17312Q5;
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/csd17312q5.pdf
The best one for series cells would be the CSD16570Q5B
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/csd16570q5b.pdf
That IR IRL3803PbF is not a very good pick. It has a relatively high on resistance at 6 mOhms. Also it's a 4.5V specified part so it probably does not have an on-state curve far enough to the left for a single cell. I say probably because International Rectifier does not feel it's necessary to post that curve in the data sheet. That's critical data and I typically will not use a MOSFET without seeing that "gate-source voltage versus on-state resistance" curve. It's possible to get an idea from the transfer characteristic curve, but I'd rather see it in black and white. Notice TI puts that curve boldly on the first page of the data sheet.
Oh, don't want to neglect the P-channels, they can be nicer for mods with other electronics since they switch the high side instead of the low side. Here's the best P-channel I've seen so far for use as a main power switch in a single cell mod;
http://www.vishay.com/docs/62860/si7157dp.pdf
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i ended using IRLB8743PBF but once i press the fire button it keeps firing til i take batteries out. and every thing is wired right.
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i ended using IRLB8743PBF but once i press the fire button it keeps firing til i take batteries out. and every thing is wired right.
N-Channel FET
You will have to use a lower value gate to source resistor that will give you zero volts on drain to batt pos when not fired and full batt voltage when fired. Check under load.
Too low of a resistance will not turn on FET or not turn on fully. Too high of a resistance will not turn off FET or not turn off completely.
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I dont have the option to post a new topic. So Im sorry for hi-jacking slightly...
I'm trying to build a unregulated duel 26650. I would like to use a certain button which means I need a mosfet.. Im not sure which one I would use. Does anyone have a link to order the correct one?
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And "Slightly" I mean for posting in an unregulated mod thread :D
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found my issue lol forgot a resistor now it works great
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I've been lurking around here for quite some time now and finally decided to post.
First of all I would like to thank Breaktru, Manu, CraigHB, David4500 and all the others for sharing your knowledge and helping your fellow vapers in their projects.
I'm almost done with my first mod a DNA30, nothing fancy yet, still waiting for pushbutton in the mail. Now I'm starting to think about the next one and here are my thoughts :
3*18650 in parallel , 1590B , PV5 switch (non rated) so MOSFET , some sort of protection in case something goes wrong, ability to fire very low ohms ~70A
I tried to draw a diagram based on some others I found here, but still don't know what mosfet to use nor what PTC fuse, I just guessed the 15A, any input would be appreciated,
http://imgur.com/qELRlv0
Thanks
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Welcome to the forum and glad to be of help.
Just put a pair of two PTC fuses on each cell. That will get your hold/trip currents where you need them and provide the protection you need.
Use parallel MOSFETs to get resistance down. We've mentioned MOSFETs so many times on this forum you should be able to find the links. You want the lowest on-state resistance (RDS(on)) you can find, but you also need to watch your gate-source threshold to make sure they'll turn on fully with the lower voltage of parallel cells (versus series cells). Check the chart for "on-state resistance versus gate-source voltage" in the part's data sheet.
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ability to fire very low ohms ~70A
ridiculous.
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Not that I'll be doing it but I want my box to have the ability to do it
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Here's my build. Switch box series/parallel 18650 dual mosfet, voltmeter on the side, will have 2 switches one for master on/off and one for voltmeter always on option. My question is when do i charge the batteries? I'm coming from a regulated mod that just shuts off with low batteries. I think that happens at 3.3v
(http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah77/gsx1000r02/Mobile%20Uploads/20151009_232337_zpsgpszutyf.jpg) (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/gsx1000r02/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151009_232337_zpsgpszutyf.jpg.html)
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Here's my build. Switch box series/parallel 18650 dual mosfet, voltmeter on the side, will have 2 switches one for master on/off and one for voltmeter always on option. My question is when do i charge the batteries? I'm coming from a regulated mod that just shuts off with low batteries. I think that happens at 3.3v
(http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah77/gsx1000r02/Mobile%20Uploads/20151009_232337_zpsgpszutyf.jpg) (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/gsx1000r02/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151009_232337_zpsgpszutyf.jpg.html)
Interesting, does it show the battery life? These are some pretty big batteries, how long do they last before they need recharging? A lot longer than store bought I would expect just looking at the size of them.
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how did you fixed the elements?