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Breaktru Forum  |  eCigarette Forum  |  Modding  |  Topic: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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Author Topic: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...  (Read 205876 times)

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Offline DireHavok

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #200 on: May 25, 2014, 11:03:17 AM »
That looks sweet..might have to grab one

Offline DireHavok

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #201 on: May 26, 2014, 06:12:56 PM »
Is there an all in one volt/ohm reder small in size like the volt meter I currently have in my raptor build having trouble finding one.

Offline david4500

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Offline DireHavok

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #203 on: May 26, 2014, 10:57:02 PM »
I need it to do both In same display..and use a switch to go between them

Offline djboa

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #204 on: May 27, 2014, 03:07:52 AM »
I have seen a video guide on youtube sometime back where a constant current was used, so that the reading on a voltage display was the resistance.

Offline Visus

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #205 on: May 27, 2014, 10:07:29 AM »
Love that video



Fasttech has a v-ohm meter that would be perfect but it has limits, 1ohm and 6 volts.
They also have a small form ohm meter that does sub ohms but unfortunate, no volts. 


http://www.fasttech.com/product/1704302

http://www.fasttech.com/product/1716605

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #206 on: May 27, 2014, 10:40:02 AM »
Yeah, lol that guy is confusing!!

I have some of the ECSTT volt/ohm meters.  So far no luck in getting it wired to reads ohms, but it's still early in the tinkering phase.  I can't trace the board traces to find what's what and it seems the board is somehow passing reading volts at one end of the board to reading ohms at the other end of the board, but haven't figured out how yet.  It does do ok though at 8v source, but that's with volts reading, it may not handle that higher voltage with ohm reading.  Not reading less than 1 ohm is a bummer.

Don't buy these: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006752/1533300-volt-ohm-meter-for-e-cigarette.  The wiring was easy to figure out but they are crap on accuracy.  I bought 5 and all 5 were inaccurate with both ohms and volts.

I love the tiny Omnitester that I did for my OKR passthru mod and the wiring was easy to figure out on those, but dang you have to bring the whole circuit into the mod (it's like 2" x 1") and you also have to include the separate PCB that's connected to the on/off/on switch plus a 4v LDO as source voltage for the Omnitester as it can't handle the higher batts' voltage without getting hot.  oh_my:

« Last Edit: May 27, 2014, 10:45:07 AM by mamu »

Offline DireHavok

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #207 on: May 27, 2014, 02:45:01 PM »
Yeah, lol that guy is confusing!!

I have some of the ECSTT volt/ohm meters.  So far no luck in getting it wired to reads ohms, but it's still early in the tinkering phase.  I can't trace the board traces to find what's what and it seems the board is somehow passing reading volts at one end of the board to reading ohms at the other end of the board, but haven't figured out how yet.  It does do ok though at 8v source, but that's with volts reading, it may not handle that higher voltage with ohm reading.  Not reading less than 1 ohm is a bummer.

Don't buy these: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006752/1533300-volt-ohm-meter-for-e-cigarette.  The wiring was easy to figure out but they are crap on accuracy.  I bought 5 and all 5 were inaccurate with both ohms and volts.

I love the tiny Omnitester that I did for my OKR passthru mod and the wiring was easy to figure out on those, but dang you have to bring the whole circuit into the mod (it's like 2" x 1") and you also have to include the separate PCB that's connected to the on/off/on switch plus a 4v LDO as source voltage for the Omnitester as it can't handle the higher batts' voltage without getting hot.  oh_my:

thats the issue I'm finding all the dual function meters are huge and inaccurate. I want small,if you figure it out let me know.

--and as far as the video it has way too many switches and buttons to be useable

Online Breaktru

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #208 on: May 27, 2014, 03:59:13 PM »
I've used a very good DM for my Volt/Ohm meter and it is extremely accurate. I made it for my Spark-O-Matic HERE
The meter would be too large for a mod. I had problems using the smaller DM but I may have to rethink the circuitry.

Update:
Got it working with a small 3-wire DM and using only one voltage source for DC-DC converter and DM
« Last Edit: May 28, 2014, 02:05:06 PM by Breaktru »

Offline BoKu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #209 on: May 29, 2014, 08:52:08 PM »
Can someone give me a part number for the 220ohm resistor please?  I have everything I need except this and am unsure which one to purchase.  Thanks!

Offline rvpps2rocks

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #210 on: May 29, 2014, 09:04:12 PM »
Can someone give me a part number for the 220ohm resistor please?  I have everything I need except this and am unsure which one to purchase.  Thanks!
any 1/4W will work. 660-MF1/4DCT52R2200F
Can i get a part number for the master switch i read everything and still am lost raged:

Offline BoKu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #211 on: May 29, 2014, 09:06:58 PM »
Can i get a part number for the master switch i read everything and still am lost raged:

Thanks!  Here is the part # for the master kill switch per Mamu / TG39P000000

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #212 on: May 29, 2014, 09:26:37 PM »
Thanks!  Here is the part # for the master kill switch per Mamu / TG39P000000

Noooooooooo lol - that's a non-rated switch on/off/on for the voltage reader - voltage reader doesn't require much current.

I never gave a part # for a master kill switch.  It's at your option which switch you'd like to use.  Master switch needs to be rated, but not at 20A though.  See our discussion of master kill switches in breaktru's OKR thread.  Good stuff there. :)

ETA: here's the latest updated wiring...
« Last Edit: May 29, 2014, 09:31:44 PM by mamu »

Offline rvpps2rocks

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #213 on: May 30, 2014, 02:08:49 AM »
Noooooooooo lol - that's a non-rated switch on/off/on for the voltage reader - voltage reader doesn't require much current.

I never gave a part # for a master kill switch.  It's at your option which switch you'd like to use.  Master switch needs to be rated, but not at 20A though.  See our discussion of master kill switches in breaktru's OKR thread.  Good stuff there. :)

ETA: here's the latest updated wiring...

Thanks Mamu, Yea i read all that stuff and was thinking of just using this one 611-1201M2S3CQE2 but its still only 12A of the 18A capability/limit(based off fuse sizes)
Ive been doing just fine without it for about a month or two but since im designing a new box i figured i might as well include it. I guess if it burns up though ill just have to bypass it

Offline Jashe123

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #214 on: June 01, 2014, 12:00:41 AM »
Anyone else experience voltage output drop as the battery voltage drops. I have 7.5 volts so why is it reading 5.5 volts under load when I read 6.1 w/out a load

Offline JUICYOHMS

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #215 on: June 01, 2014, 04:23:06 AM »
HEY GUYS...THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP & INFO...

GOT A COUPLE QUESTIONS...

COULD I USE THIS POT FOR THIS BUILD? IT HAS THE 200 OHM RATING AND SEEMS KINDA LARGE & PRICEY, BUT NICE QUALITY & BUILDING THIS AS A PERSONAL KEEPER PV, SO...
IF I CAN FIT IT, WOULD IT WORK FINE?


I'LL BE CARVING MY BOX FROM A SOLID CHUNK OF WOOD, AND THE 3/4" KNOB I'VE PICKED OUT WILL BE RECESSED A BIT, SO I'M HOPING IT WORKS OUT NICELY, IF I'M ABLE TO USE THIS POT. WILL POST PICS AND UPDATE AS I GO.

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=151011821&uq=635371874908990300

CHEERS-
JU-C

Offline DireHavok

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #216 on: June 01, 2014, 09:59:03 AM »
That link is dead.


HEY GUYS...THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP & INFO...

GOT A COUPLE QUESTIONS...

COULD I USE THIS POT FOR THIS BUILD? IT HAS THE 200 OHM RATING AND SEEMS KINDA LARGE & PRICEY, BUT NICE QUALITY & BUILDING THIS AS A PERSONAL KEEPER PV, SO...
IF I CAN FIT IT, WOULD IT WORK FINE?


I'LL BE CARVING MY BOX FROM A SOLID CHUNK OF WOOD, AND THE 3/4" KNOB I'VE PICKED OUT WILL BE RECESSED A BIT, SO I'M HOPING IT WORKS OUT NICELY, IF I'M ABLE TO USE THIS POT. WILL POST PICS AND UPDATE AS I GO.

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=151011821&uq=635371874908990300

CHEERS-
JU-C

Offline JUICYOHMS

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #217 on: June 01, 2014, 04:18:28 PM »
Bourns Part# 3590S-2-201L

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #218 on: June 01, 2014, 04:51:07 PM »
Bourns Part# 3590S-2-201L

It will work but.......

Here are some CONS:
1. It's large
2. It's 10 turns so you will have to turn the knob a lot before seeing a voltage change.
3. It's expensive. Because it's a 2W (not necessary due to low current for trim circuit) and it's 5%. Most trimmers we use are 20% tolerence.

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #219 on: June 01, 2014, 05:08:59 PM »
Thanks Mamu, Yea i read all that stuff and was thinking of just using this one 611-1201M2S3CQE2 but its still only 12A of the 18A capability/limit(based off fuse sizes)
Ive been doing just fine without it for about a month or two but since im designing a new box i figured i might as well include it. I guess if it burns up though ill just have to bypass it

That's a nice switch.  I've used the SPDT on/off/on version in some of my mods.

I would think you'd be more than ok with that switch.  It's rated 6A @ 28VDC and for parallel wiring you get the doubled 12A.  Craig told us you can safely assume a switch rated at certain amps for a certain voltage can handle higher amps at a lower voltage plus the contacts have a higher amp rating than the switch's rating, but those things aren't mentioned in the datasheet so you don't know for sure what max amps. 

What you can do as Craig suggested is breadboard it and see if the contacts get hot at the amp load you run the Raptor at or if you get a voltage drop under load.  Are you running the Raptor at >12A load?

Anyone else experience voltage output drop as the battery voltage drops. I have 7.5 volts so why is it reading 5.5 volts under load when I read 6.1 w/out a load

That's a pretty significant voltage drop.  Is this a new build or an older build and it's just now happening? 

What battery sled are you using?  What coil/resistance are you running at 6V?  The higher the load or high resistance in the circuit would cause voltage drop.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #220 on: June 01, 2014, 05:25:27 PM »
Like mamu said, sounds like you're getting a drop in input voltage somewhere.  So time to break out the voltmeter and start looking for drops in input voltage.  The sled is the most likely candidate followed by the switch.  The batteries themselves can also be the culprit.  As batteries wear, the internal resistance goes up resulting in more voltage sag when loaded.  So if you're using tired batteries, try a fresh set.  I assume you're using high drain batteries to start with.  It's always best to use high drain cells when asking more of your batteries.

Offline Jashe123

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #221 on: June 01, 2014, 06:10:53 PM »
Thanks Craig and mamu! It must be the batteries. I'm using vtc5's and when they are from freshly charged 8.4 to 7.5 it's not happening.

Offline Jashe123

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #222 on: June 01, 2014, 06:15:54 PM »
I am asking a lot of the batteries my set up is a 28mm tobh atty with dual coils 22guage kanthal 10 wraps around a 1/8 " drill bit. Really don't need the full 6.1 volts I was just making sure I didn't mess up with capacitance measures. I used 2 22uf 16V caps so should be ok

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #223 on: June 01, 2014, 08:28:21 PM »
The 22uF 1210 (3225 metric) MLCC caps are the best ones I've found so far for this stuff.  Specifically the TDK C3225X5R1C226K250AA.  You just can't do much better for the size.  You can use a controlled ESR polymer tantalum or maybe one of the polymer electrolytics to get more capacitance with similar ESR (which is important), but it's going to cost a lot more space and they're more expensive.

Sounds like you're really digging into the power demand there with 22 gauge coils.  That makes it pretty likely you're getting big sags in input voltage.  I know mamu has taken measurements and can say for sure, but IIRC there's a pretty liberal drop-out with the Raptor so you need to keep input voltage a good amount above output voltage.

Offline BoKu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #224 on: June 09, 2014, 12:03:32 AM »
@Mamu / I am sorry for mis quoting you earlier, my mistake. 

I have 5 chips on hand,  now im scrambling to acquire the rest of the parts for this build.  Can anyone recommend a good battery sled and a master kill switch please?  I am also planning to use two 10A fuses in parallel instead of the two 9A in the schematic to get the full 120W capability of the chip.  Am I correct in this thinking?  If there are other changes I need to make, any insight into getting the full 120W would be much appreciated.  Thats also the reason I am having trouble selecting a master kill switch, Im assuming higher amp rating than ones ive seen linked here would be ideal.

 Also, I was given a fried Hana Clone and plan to gut the box and attempt to fit this build within it.  Can I use the tactile switches from the hana mod clone as a fire switch with this schematic?  And how would one go about using the tactile switches for adjustment in place of the POT? 

I know I ask a lot of questions, please forgive my noobness.  I've been an electrician for 15+ years so some of this comes natural but it's really a whole 'nother world dealing with this tiny stuff lol.  If anyone can help me through this build i would be forever grateful and even willing to trade a chip or two for the help.  Im not looking to be spoonfed, just enough guidance to get it done safely.   THANKS!

 ;cheers;
« Last Edit: June 09, 2014, 12:07:26 AM by BoKu »

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #225 on: June 09, 2014, 09:13:33 AM »
You'll get the full 120W with the 2x 9A parallel fuses, but may have an inadvertent trip issue if running Raptor at 20A.  I never thought anyone would actually run Raptor at 20A, but I guess they are.  I updated the wiring guide for 2x 10A fuses then.

Keystone battery sleds (mouser.com) are the best for the low contact resistance batt contacts.  I'm not sure they'll handle 20A though, but you can check by running a test for voltage drop and heat from the contacts to see how it handles amp load.

I haven't spent time searching for a high rated master on/off switch that would handle 20A, so maybe someone that has would post the part.  Problem is, it's going to be big.

Does the Hana clone fit 2x 18650 batts?  I thought it had room for only for 1x 18650 batt.

You can use the tact switch for the fire switch as long as you're using the inhibit pin on this converter, but you would need a digital pot to have tact switches manage voltage change.




Offline BoKu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #226 on: June 09, 2014, 11:59:25 AM »
Thank you Mamu for your reply.  I think Im just going to TRY to keep things simple on my first build.  But using two tactile switches on a digital POT sounds like something my future holds.   And yes, the Hana Clone uses one 18650.  There is a divider between the battery and chip that I plan to remove to make room for a dual sled.   It will be a tight fit but Im confident I can make it work.  I just really like the size of the Hana, it feels good in my hand.   And I like the clicky tactile switches as well.   I just can't see myself using the Hammond 1950B that seems to be the norm for the naos raptor builds, too big for my tastes.

Also, Im a neat freak and would like to have all the additional components on their own board but space for said board may be an issue.  Any thoughts on that? 

Thanks a million for all your help.  I would love to buy a mod from you just to show my support.  I don't believe you are selling them anymore though correct?

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #227 on: June 09, 2014, 02:21:12 PM »
Howdy Boku, ibew 9 26yrs next month  freaked_out:

yeah its a different/similar world in tiny, and filled with wow.

Measured it out for ya:
Your going to have ~10mm of room to play with and only ~2mm for routing around the raptor, extra tight squeeze..
That is with using the keystone sled 1048-9  39mm x 77mm.  You can save a few mm by mounting keystone contacts.

HHana 18650 mod
DEPTH   25.7 mm
HEIGHT   88 mm
WIDTH   49.5 mm

Naos Raptor
20A: 36.8mm x 15.5mm x 9.2mm




Break has plotted and added schematics kindly for us for a digital pot..  --post 23--
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,177.0.html

Offline rkottwitz

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #228 on: June 15, 2014, 12:00:28 AM »
I've looked on mouser and digikey and it looks like there is around a 3 month wait on getting a raptor 20A chip. Is there another place I can go to that doesn't have a huge back order?

Offline Jasen

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #229 on: June 15, 2014, 12:27:45 AM »
you can try circuit finder places like http://www.oemstrade.com/

Offline Claviger

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #230 on: June 15, 2014, 12:30:07 AM »
http://www.findchips.com/search/nsr020

Not looking good ...

http://www.vyrian.com/part.php?part=NSR020A0X43Z&utm_source=oemsTrade&utm_medium=SubmitRFQ

Looks like they are the only ones that dont have an OEM requirement to be sold to.

Offline Jashe123

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #231 on: June 15, 2014, 12:33:15 AM »
When I ordered them from digi-key the website said they weren't available until July 30th I called and they said they would ship the next week. Mind you this was a month ago but I always call now

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #232 on: June 15, 2014, 12:52:25 AM »
IF you guys want the ship date just give ge a call they will give ya ship date.

The last ship date 300 pieces, every single chip  was purchased in one order the very day they arrived at digikey..

Offline BoKu

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #233 on: June 22, 2014, 09:18:21 PM »
Im vaping on a RAPTOR   :rockin smiley:  Now I can't wait to start another build.  1 chip down, 4 more to go.   I ended up using the 1590B enclosure.  It's big, but not as big as I thought it would be.  Pics can be deceiving as I was expecting the case to be larger.  The master kill switch I ordered ended up being too big so I omitted it, as well as the LED for reverse polarity.  As of now the POT, voltage meter and it's switch are just tucked in the case.  Its not as clean of a build as I was planning, but honestly this build took me most of the day so once I saw the light at the end of the tunnel, I just crammed everything in.  Couldn't wait to start using it lol. 

Thanks everyone for the help, you got me here, and it feels great having pulled this off  ;cheers;  I will spend more time planning out the wiring on the next one.  I know I can do better next time.  Id like to mount the voltage meter, its switch and the POT so that they can be used without removing the cover.  Which reminds me, these screws suck lol.  I gotta order some magnets for the lids. Thanks again everyone.  Big thanks to Mamu  :thankyou:

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #234 on: June 22, 2014, 10:08:26 PM »
Boku, no camera?   looked for your post..

wanna see that mofo..
viewing vaping mods has become a as bad on forums as talking bout your GF or Wifee gotta post up pics, leghumper pics preferably lol..
« Last Edit: June 22, 2014, 11:26:50 PM by Visus »

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #235 on: June 22, 2014, 10:16:24 PM »
Just put a raptor in a 1590g box. No pfet, fuses, or master. But she is compact

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #236 on: June 22, 2014, 11:23:39 PM »
Nice jashe  tight biznuss tolerated  :yes"

Like how you cut the sled so it would fit the offset off the screw hole fits perfect.  I was in think before purchase about grinding it off but lookee there..

That must hit like a truck looks like solid 18-20ga..


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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #237 on: June 23, 2014, 05:45:08 AM »
Congrats jashe. Looks good  :beer-toast:

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #238 on: June 23, 2014, 07:33:55 AM »
Well done, jashe.  Good use of space management for that size case.

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #239 on: June 23, 2014, 07:35:56 AM »
Here's a schematic that shows a way to wire the Raptor for non-rated Master switch, non-rated Fire switch, and no idle current drain from the on/off control.  This can be adapted to any positive logic converter.

Been tinkering with it and good to go with both N-FETs I tested with, BUT I have not tested at high amps.  The SUP N-FET was recommended by a Vishay rep when I asked what was recommended to handle current load on the switch and the IRL N-FET I had in my stash from my Fistpack days.

I tried putting zener on Gate of N-FET, but is no go for positive logic modules, only good for negative logic modules.  Positive logic modules need zener connected directly to On/Off then tied to the fire switch at the N-FET Gate, while negative logic modules need zener connected directly to Gate of N-FET and converter on/off connected directly to Drain (I showed a schematic for this in my OKL2-T20 thread).

Many many thanks to Bap and BJ for leading the way.  I followed Bap's suggestion for N-FET using the 47K pull-down and after tinkering where to put the zener, I followed BJ's suggestion for keeping the zener at On/Off.  YAY it works!



I should mention that idle current drain from the converter is off with the way the N-FET is wired, but the N-FET even when off will draw idle current. The idle current from the N-FET is the Zero Gate Voltage Drain Current (Idss).

This idle current is usually 1 microAmp which is 0.001 milliAmp which is a teensy tiny amount compared to the converter's idle current which is around 5 milliAmps. So big difference there, but still should be aware of.

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #240 on: June 23, 2014, 07:58:49 AM »
Im vaping on a RAPTOR   :rockin smiley:  Now I can't wait to start another build.  1 chip down, 4 more to go.   I ended up using the 1590B enclosure.  It's big, but not as big as I thought it would be.  Pics can be deceiving as I was expecting the case to be larger.  The master kill switch I ordered ended up being too big so I omitted it, as well as the LED for reverse polarity.  As of now the POT, voltage meter and it's switch are just tucked in the case.  Its not as clean of a build as I was planning, but honestly this build took me most of the day so once I saw the light at the end of the tunnel, I just crammed everything in.  Couldn't wait to start using it lol. 

Thanks everyone for the help, you got me here, and it feels great having pulled this off  ;cheers;  I will spend more time planning out the wiring on the next one.  I know I can do better next time.  Id like to mount the voltage meter, its switch and the POT so that they can be used without removing the cover.  Which reminds me, these screws suck lol.  I gotta order some magnets for the lids. Thanks again everyone.  Big thanks to Mamu  :thankyou:

YW BoKu!

I know it feels great to be vaping with a mod you made!

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #241 on: June 23, 2014, 02:45:41 PM »
Thanks everyone. And a big thanks to all those who trudged the road of the Raptor before me. I think I have a little bit of room for my next one to put the voltmeter and the three-way switch but you can't get chips anywhere right now.

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #242 on: June 23, 2014, 02:47:05 PM »
Huge thanks to mamu and craig for answering all my questions so quickly
« Last Edit: June 23, 2014, 02:51:13 PM by Jashe123 »

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #243 on: June 23, 2014, 09:27:54 PM »
Welcome, glad to see you got yourself a box that works well.

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #244 on: June 24, 2014, 03:08:22 AM »
Mamu,
 @ post 239........... very good idea :P

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #245 on: July 07, 2014, 03:54:30 PM »
Was wondering if it possible to use a digital pot on the raptor with the diagram you posted for non rated switches and if so im not entirely sure I understand yet how the pot sets the voltage is the pot your low and the resistor the high and if thats the case would I be able to use same resistances for digital as the analogs?.... sry if its a dumb question but I been thru breaks diagram and kinda get the jists of the wireing setup but was just seeing if im getting in over my head trying one on this with dual buttons for up and down

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #246 on: July 07, 2014, 07:18:08 PM »
The diagram calls for a 200 Ohm pot.  It's pretty hard to find a digital 200 Ohm pot, let alone one with an up/down interface.  Digital pots come in 10k or 50k mainly.  You can even find them down to 1k at the big electronics shops, but that's still not low enough.  Problem is you need the taps close to each other in resistance or you'll get bit changes in voltage with each click.  If you can find a 200 Ohm up/down pot or even a 500 Ohm up/down pot with 256 taps, you should be to use it without issue.

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #247 on: July 07, 2014, 07:44:45 PM »
A 200 ohm pot w/ a series 220 ohm fixed resistor will give you the ideal output voltage range of 3.3v to 6v.
The lowest D.P. that I could find is a 1K ohm. If you use it you will have unusable voltage settings on the low end of the output voltage like 1.5v or 1.6v when D.P. is max'ed, so the D.P. steps between 1.5v to 3.3v is wasted.

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #248 on: July 11, 2014, 09:00:37 PM »
looks like a great mod. wanting to build one myself but all the chips are sold out. no to thread jack but would anyone run a 40 amp chip? they have them in stock and I don't feel like waiting till October till the 20 amp chip comes in

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Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #249 on: July 12, 2014, 07:22:45 PM »
Anyone have any extremely easy to follow wiring guides for the raptor chip? Thank you for the help I really appreciate the help. I am schematically challenged.  Lol

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