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Yeah, lol that guy is confusing!! I have some of the ECSTT volt/ohm meters. So far no luck in getting it wired to reads ohms, but it's still early in the tinkering phase. I can't trace the board traces to find what's what and it seems the board is somehow passing reading volts at one end of the board to reading ohms at the other end of the board, but haven't figured out how yet. It does do ok though at 8v source, but that's with volts reading, it may not handle that higher voltage with ohm reading. Not reading less than 1 ohm is a bummer.Don't buy these: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006752/1533300-volt-ohm-meter-for-e-cigarette. The wiring was easy to figure out but they are crap on accuracy. I bought 5 and all 5 were inaccurate with both ohms and volts.I love the tiny Omnitester that I did for my OKR passthru mod and the wiring was easy to figure out on those, but dang you have to bring the whole circuit into the mod (it's like 2" x 1") and you also have to include the separate PCB that's connected to the on/off/on switch plus a 4v LDO as source voltage for the Omnitester as it can't handle the higher batts' voltage without getting hot.
Can someone give me a part number for the 220ohm resistor please? I have everything I need except this and am unsure which one to purchase. Thanks!
Can i get a part number for the master switch i read everything and still am lost
Thanks! Here is the part # for the master kill switch per Mamu / TG39P000000
Noooooooooo lol - that's a non-rated switch on/off/on for the voltage reader - voltage reader doesn't require much current. I never gave a part # for a master kill switch. It's at your option which switch you'd like to use. Master switch needs to be rated, but not at 20A though. See our discussion of master kill switches in breaktru's OKR thread. Good stuff there. ETA: here's the latest updated wiring...
HEY GUYS...THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP & INFO...GOT A COUPLE QUESTIONS...COULD I USE THIS POT FOR THIS BUILD? IT HAS THE 200 OHM RATING AND SEEMS KINDA LARGE & PRICEY, BUT NICE QUALITY & BUILDING THIS AS A PERSONAL KEEPER PV, SO...IF I CAN FIT IT, WOULD IT WORK FINE?I'LL BE CARVING MY BOX FROM A SOLID CHUNK OF WOOD, AND THE 3/4" KNOB I'VE PICKED OUT WILL BE RECESSED A BIT, SO I'M HOPING IT WORKS OUT NICELY, IF I'M ABLE TO USE THIS POT. WILL POST PICS AND UPDATE AS I GO.http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=151011821&uq=635371874908990300CHEERS-JU-C
Bourns Part# 3590S-2-201L
Thanks Mamu, Yea i read all that stuff and was thinking of just using this one 611-1201M2S3CQE2 but its still only 12A of the 18A capability/limit(based off fuse sizes)Ive been doing just fine without it for about a month or two but since im designing a new box i figured i might as well include it. I guess if it burns up though ill just have to bypass it
Anyone else experience voltage output drop as the battery voltage drops. I have 7.5 volts so why is it reading 5.5 volts under load when I read 6.1 w/out a load
Im vaping on a RAPTOR Now I can't wait to start another build. 1 chip down, 4 more to go. I ended up using the 1590B enclosure. It's big, but not as big as I thought it would be. Pics can be deceiving as I was expecting the case to be larger. The master kill switch I ordered ended up being too big so I omitted it, as well as the LED for reverse polarity. As of now the POT, voltage meter and it's switch are just tucked in the case. Its not as clean of a build as I was planning, but honestly this build took me most of the day so once I saw the light at the end of the tunnel, I just crammed everything in. Couldn't wait to start using it lol. Thanks everyone for the help, you got me here, and it feels great having pulled this off I will spend more time planning out the wiring on the next one. I know I can do better next time. Id like to mount the voltage meter, its switch and the POT so that they can be used without removing the cover. Which reminds me, these screws suck lol. I gotta order some magnets for the lids. Thanks again everyone. Big thanks to Mamu