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Looks like the good stuff, 63/37, rosin core, 1mm. Should do the job nicely.It doesn't say, but the rosin is probably the standard activated type so you'll need to clean it off with isoproyl alcohol when done soldering. You can use the higher purity rubbing alcohol from the drug store, something like 90% will do. I normally buy the technical grade stuff from MG Chemicals which is like 99.5% pure, but I've used the 90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore before and it works well enough.
I remember my first time - all the cautions and concerns and I was freakin a bit. After a few times of working with them, you're not as nervous, but still always cautious.
Just aswell i have about 750ml of 99.5% isoproyl , use it to clean most of my vaping gear.....i am a severe OCD person....everything must be clean
Another option with the size of enclosure you have, you could easily fit a dual 18650 batt holder and use dual parallel 18650 batts.
I have been using a cheapo $20 soldering station and I do more cursing than soldering with it lol. I just ordered a Hakko FX-888D the other day as my Christmas present for myself so greatly anticipating it's arrival. I also ordered a T18-B tip to try as well.
You won't be sorry. Money well spent
It's always nice to have quality tools. I don't have a digital thermometer so I'm hoping the station comes calibrated although I guess If it melts solder then it's close enough lol.
I just ordered a Hakko FX-888D the other day as my Christmas present for myself so greatly anticipating it's arrival.
Romelee, I think those battery holders would work as long as they have decent contacts and a heavy enough gauge wire. I like 20AWG wire for anything carrying current in a mod such as from the battery and to the atty connector.
Nice scope BTW...isn't the anticipation unbearable? lol
Oh, an afterthought, there is a hardware issue that can pop up when charging multiple parallel cells. Since impedance is lower, there's less voltage drop in charging which means the charger controller has to dissipate more heat for a longer period of time. This is normally not an issue for any charger controller (the chip that does the work) since they have thermal limiting which protects them from working too hard.In the case of the Evolv USB charger, I've read it can have reliablity issues. I don't know if those have been resolved or not. When charging multiple cells, the controller is going to have to dissiapate more heat for a longer period of time so that could increase the potential for failure if there's any weakness there.
That's the Chinese board we've talked about a bit here on the forum. It doesn't have accuracy quite as good as other boards, but otherwise should do the job well enough. You can actually find those boards for a couple bucks on eBay. They are capable of a 1A rate so that's one good thing about them.
...Another option might be to get the battery box and then buy some decent battery contacts and replace the ones in the box.
If i was to use the above is there any change in wiring up? do i still need to use the fuses, i presume the USB charger will still be ok to use?
Definitely agree with that. The contacts from these batt boxes usually have high contact resistance and cause problems. Keystone contacts are great and I've had zero issues with them.
That battery box looks pretty cool. Is it modular?
Maybe you can take a photo of the insides with the batts in so we can see what it looks like and we can give some advise on mounting the DNA board
Also can Kapton tape be used instead of basic electrical tape.
Kapton tape is far superior to electrical tape. It has a much higher tolerance to heat than vinyl tape. In fact, it can be used for solder masking and often is. The stuff is typically much thinner than vinyl tape, but even so, the material has excellent insulation characteristics so it's not a problem. On thing to consider with cells is that you may want to replace them at some point. The cells in my mods are about as non-removable as you can get, but I still made considerations in the assembly to allow the cell to be replaced at some point. So, you may want to avoid glueing or using high bond two sided tape on the cells.
If you are using a lot of different devices which might have varying post depth required you probably don't want to fill the 510 connector so you can pull or adjust the post.
If the display get brighter then the fire button is working. You may need to "Reset" the MCU by removing power for a second or three and then re-power. If you can't pullup the batteries, unsolder either the battery neg or pos lead.