Author Topic: OKR10 not firing at .6ohms (Read 12583 times)

whoi · « **on:** February 25, 2014, 09:18:30 AM »

So I just built this mod and I was expecting to use it for sub-ohm vaping. I am using 2 18650's (10A each, matched pair, 2200mAh). The device doesn't seem to do anything once I put an atty on there which is .6ohms. I tried 3.5-5v, never fires.

I am not using any capacitors and have a 5.1k resister on pin 1 as a pull down.

Anyone have any idea what is going on? Let me know if more information is needed to troubleshoot.

Breaktru · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2014, 09:51:35 AM »

You say it doesn't work with a .6 ohm coil but does it work with a higher resistance coil?

Visus · « **Reply #2 on:** February 25, 2014, 11:35:13 AM »

MY 08100 makes a tone buzz sound and no fire when I go to low on ohms using low c incapable batts . I put in better batteries and away it goes. I think you need better batts to fire that low or it may be your wire gauge is to high. They are almost identical so what works for me may work for you.. Try better batts..

whoi · « **Reply #3 on:** February 25, 2014, 01:40:34 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on February 25, 2014, 09:51:35 AM

You say it doesn't work with a .6 ohm coil but does it work with a higher resistance coil?

Yea it works fine with a 1.5ohm atty.

Breaktru · « **Reply #4 on:** February 25, 2014, 03:11:02 PM »

Like @Visus pointed out, it must be the batteries. They can't deliver the needed amperage. What make are your 10A batts.

whoi · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2014, 03:27:47 PM »

I don't have them in front of me, but they are efest 2200mAh (high discharge) 10A batteries I got at a local b&m.

Does the wire gauge make a difference? I used 18awg on anything with high amperage.

CraigHB · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2014, 03:58:27 PM »

18 gauge is ample so no, that's not going to be a problem. You should verify the voltage output setting you are using. With only a .6 Ohm atomizer, the overload protection for the regulator will trip if the setting it too high. If the batteries are worn or defective or if there's a problem with the connection, input voltage could be dropping enough under load for the regulator's UVLO to engage (under voltage lock-out).

whoi · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2014, 05:13:23 PM »

One other point of failure could by my battery sled. Safe, but ghetto (hacked apart a C cell sled until my 18650 sled gets here). The wire that was presoldered looks like 22-24awg. Could that wire be too small?

Visus · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2014, 05:33:42 PM »

Any pictures?

whoi · « **Reply #9 on:** February 26, 2014, 01:50:56 AM »

No pictures yet.

So I checked some things. Here are my results:

I pushed the center pin in (from the top) of my igo-w with the .6ohm coil and I got the OKR to fire however I have some disturbing results:

igo-w 0.6ohm: atty off - 5.26vout/7.99vin; atty on - 3.38vout/7.38vin
kayfun 1.6ohm: atty off - 5.26vout/7.99vin; atty on - 4.18vout/7.43vin

This is very strange and these vout drops don't look correct. I am not using any capacitors, but I am using a NO fire button wired to the remote pin using a 5.1kohm down pull to make sure it turns off.

Visus · « **Reply #10 on:** February 26, 2014, 02:29:40 AM »

I swore that pin 1 was a nc switch and thats a heckuva a lot of drop.

I lose .01v on mine and thats with less than fortunate efest, I assume with better batts I would maybe not lose that .01.
IDK, Ti's boost mod counters for vdrop by giving .01v more than dialed per its data sheet.. I am not sure how they hit target dial with the 08100 gotta take a peek at that sheet.

I think Mamu has done a vdrop test on a OKR and she lost a bit but no where near that, it probably is your bat contacts.
Glad your up and running again

whoi · « **Reply #11 on:** February 26, 2014, 04:02:58 AM »

Well I am not really up and running again. That vout drop is horrifically bad. I would say its my battery contacts, but the vin drop is not horrible/dropping too badly. Plus it stopped firing again on my .6ohm atty so I think this board is bad :0(. I ordered 2 more OKR-T/10's from digikey to see if my luck is any better (my previous order was from mouser).

whoi · « **Reply #12 on:** February 26, 2014, 04:06:53 AM »

Here are some pics. Please excuse my poor measuring and dremmel usage

whoi · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2014, 04:13:29 AM »

Quote from: Visus on February 26, 2014, 02:29:40 AM

I swore that pin 1 was a nc switch and thats a heckuva a lot of drop.

I am using a 5.1k pull down resister on pin1. This allows usage of NO buttons. So I have a NO momentary button switch going to the positive.

Breaktru · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2014, 06:44:19 AM »

Every high current connection is subject to a high resistant point which would cause a voltage sag. As well as poor batteries themselves.
The 510 connection, Negative and Positve.
Battery connectors that contact the battery, Neg and Pos side.
Battery connector wiring, neg and pos.
Cold/Poor soldering.

Did you solder in the 510 connector or is it pressed in. This can be an issue for high resistance
Or did you solder the neg wire directly to the 510?

whoi · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2014, 05:58:38 PM »

Well I got a real 18650 sled in today. So I will try that. Also my current battery leads and the 510 leads are 26-28awg (roughly) wire which is 'A' problem but might not be 'THE' problem. They came that way. I will replace them when I get home. I have 2 more OKR boards coming in the mail too JIC.

Breaktru: The answer your 510 question, the 510 is soldered in the copper pipe but I do have + and - wires solder on the 510.

Breaktru · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2014, 07:41:43 PM »

Good whoi.
Get rid of the 26-28 gauge for 20-18ga. Avoid splicing wires and wire directly. Make wire runs as short as possible.

whoi · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2014, 07:46:34 PM »

Thanks for the support. I really appreciate it. I will report back once I get new wiring in tonight.

Visus · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2014, 07:57:48 PM »

Love your mod I have 1" pipe for a mod as well my nephew is a plumber he gave it to me

How did you do your caps are they threaded? I know break using compression on his.
Im thinking about hinging and magnetic clasp on mine, well the bottom cap so many ways to do it but whats best with my limited tools IDK

I also thought of using plexiglass top and bottom

whats the switch up top fer? turbo?

whoi · « **Reply #19 on:** February 27, 2014, 12:26:45 AM »

Win! So I replaced the battery leads and the leads to the 510 connector with 18awg and everything works great now. Very little voltage drop and hits like a champ. All that is left is modifying the battery sled so it fits in the tube and I am done.

Quote

How did you do your caps are they threaded? I know break using compression on his.

I think I am going to use single wrap of electrical tape until I figure out something more elegant

Quote

whats the switch up top fer? turbo?

The is a On/Off/On switch to show vin/vout (battery/atomizer voltage)