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Offline Doug_xx2

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why did my dna 30 board just...
« on: March 11, 2014, 04:33:06 PM »
I got my first DNA board and broke the screen on it because I missed a small burr in my case so I ordered a second one. I got the second one and put it together. Soldering went smoothly assembly came together fine. I got it all together and actually vaped it for a couple of hours last night. plugged a mini USB into it to charge the batteries while I slept and got up to charged batteries and a green light. I attached my dripper and began to vape on it and it was working fine then all of a sudden smoke..... I don't understand why. It was installed securely into my board and working fine then all of a sudden one of the chips just decided to go into nuclear meltdown. I ripped it open and removed the batteries. disassembled it and found a burnt chip. I attached some pics.

as you can see from the picture I have two pptc 6A fuses between the batteries and the board. I cannot see why this happened. What the heck is going on here???


 ;hairpull; ;hairpull; ;hairpull;

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2014, 06:16:46 PM »
Whoa, sorry to hear that Doug. First time I've seen that happen to a DNA.
For curiosity, what was your load ohms and watt setting at the time of melt down?

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2014, 06:21:01 PM »
that's the weird thing it was on my dripper @ 1 ohm (2x2.0 ohm dual coil) and I was hitting it around 25 watts. to be honest I couldn't take that thing on 30 watts it was TOOO much lol. I was even thinking of turning it down cause it was still too much throat hit for first thing in the am. wow I am confused!!!

Another side note btw I found that the dna was reading the ohms on all of my stuff .4 ohms lower than what my multimeter said I just figured it was bad contact with the multimeter. could there have been a problem with the board or something?


and it should be noted to that when I hook it back up to the battery it comes on and fires just won't put out more than 3.4 volts which is below battery voltage
« Last Edit: March 11, 2014, 06:26:08 PM by Doug_xx2 »

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2014, 06:25:57 PM »
One thing I'm usually looking for when I complete a mod is that I don't have any loose strands of wire laying on the board (Caused by stripping wire). And tiny solder splashed balls. I look it over with a magnifier.
I didn't see any evidence of it on your board when I blew up your photos.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2014, 06:28:09 PM »
no and it was clean and a good solder I made sure and it was in a plastic box and the wires were on the oposite side of the board and it was sitting on a pad of electricians tape I had put in to hold the OLED in place

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2014, 06:34:25 PM »
I dropped evolv a message from their site but... I didn't do as good a job with the first one and I broke the screen so they are probably going to assume I did something. I hope not....... I really don't see what I did wrong building this and it was well within the specified operating limits of the board. seems like the warranty should cover it but...

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2014, 07:17:04 PM »
Probably a defect

Offline Mimms

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2014, 07:49:08 PM »
Well that don't look good  cant_believe:
I'm certain it is a defective board

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2014, 08:00:48 PM »
well hopefully Mr. ward gets ahold of me soon.

I would like to add that until that chip went supernova it was ROCKIN'
« Last Edit: March 11, 2014, 08:05:36 PM by Doug_xx2 »

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2014, 09:53:05 PM »
Its more than obvious you were vaping my Monkey Captain and boom sensory overload, electrons from your brain melted the chip..

Whoa that suckeths, looks solid,  your soldering is top notch. 


I found some screens for the dna yesterdai if that makes a breadboard happy IDK

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/china-cheap-electronic-cigarette-push-button_1691937278.html

Theres no DNA30's anywhere, well, I cannot find one without inflation..  So I feel your vaping hole with it missing ..

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2014, 10:07:14 PM »
yeah I bought one and broke it and evolve is gonna put a new screen on it for a lot less than it costs to replace it but I bought a replacement to use and figured I would make a second box when I got the first DNA back. So this was the second one I bought. no dang way I am gonna buy another one right now. it is suckie moto for me until I get the first one back from evolve now. I just hope with the horrible prices I paid for these that there feller from evolve decides to hook a brutha up and get board one back soon and replace this one as well. The DNA screens are cheap I found 5 for 20 the other day plus shipping from china just doubted my ability to solder the dang thing on. tooooooo small.

 :wallbash: :wallbash: :wallbash:

Offline CraigHB

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2014, 10:49:09 PM »
I'm sure the guys at Evolv will take care of you.  I would bet you can send the fried board to them and they'll take a look at it and figure out what happened.  They'll probably replace it if the failure is due to a circuit board defect.  It would have to be a defect if not a a bare wire or solder blob on the board.  The board knows if it's getting overloaded and will shut down if that happens.  It should not be possible to cause the board to self-destruct due to an overload or atomizer short.

In terms of the power you're using, it's really not extreme.  I typically vape at 20W and my atomizers can handle 25W no problem, though it's a bit intense.  Relatively speaking, there's guys doing extreme atomizers on mechanical mods with much higher power levels than that.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2014, 11:59:24 PM »
I hope so. I couldn't afford it in the first place let alone to throw it away. the power level was a little high for me around 20 25 watts lol but I am coming from a twist.

Offline mamu

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2014, 01:43:04 AM »
wow.  All your wiring looks good, Doug, but in your 3rd pic - there looks to be a solder blob on the underside of the screen where the cable connects to the screen.  Unless that's something else?

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2014, 02:19:57 AM »
do you mean this area? if so don't think it is a solder blob. it is very shiny there. Could it be the 150w light bulb reflecting off it. Maybe my old eyes are missing it though but I can't see it even with my visor's jewelers lens and both magnifiers down. doesn't seem like that should cause that chip to melt down like that though.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2014, 02:33:44 PM »
well I just got a reply from evolve with an rma so I guess I will see what happens. they said they want to look at it before they will make a call. That seems fair. To be honest if I wasn't there I wouldn't believed it either.

Offline Doug_xx2

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A little clarification just in case...
« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2014, 08:53:29 PM »
You know I would like to take this opportunity to point out a few things because someone ITRW pointed out that the point of this thread could be interpreted wrong. (my people skills suck but my friends tell me I have other redeeming qualities)

The point of this thread was NOT to bash evolve.

I am not sure why this DNA board went into meltdown like it did but I am sure that if there was something wrong with the board it was not a design flaw but a simple manufacturing mistake. Anytime something is mass produced there is going to be a percentage of that product that comes off the line flawed. This happens no matter what whether we are talking about Ferrari's or lightbulbs. The process can be tweaked to catch many of these mistakes but neither man or machine is perfect.

If I came off a little angry that is because I was. I paid over 100 dollars for a dna 30 kit from atozvaporworld.com and it didn't even come with a box. Then because I was too stupid to get off the phone, an inexperienced solderer, an inexperienced fabricator and had never ever not even once soldered anything into a circuit board ever I did a crappy job soldering the wires into the board and broke the OLED screen during installation. I knew I couldn't afford to pay what I did for my "kit" but I did it anyway because I figured I wouldn't need another ecig battery for a good long time and it sounded cool. Plus the DUAL 18650's I was using to power it could be replaced instead of throwing it away when it stopped taking a charge like I was going to have to do with my ego twist batteries and finally I wanted to know I could do it myself. Well I had never dealt with evolve before and my experience dealing with the people at a to z was not good so I was expecting the same from evolve so instead of dumping my work down the toilet and saying to h@ll with it I bit the bullet and bought another board that same night. This time it was a bit cheaper I only paid for the DNA 30 because I didn't need the rest of the stuff (I paid $85 for it. Still way too much since evolve charges $45). BTW The people/person at evolve were very helpful and offered to solder a new screen on my DNA for just $10 Which I gladly paid. Then when the new board comes I finish my mod. In fact I got it all together that night. There was a few things I needed to deal with but it was working perfectly IMHO. Then disaster struck. The worst part was I didn't even know why. So yes I was confused and a little upset.

I know that everyone says Evolve is good about replacement and in fact my own experience with evolve has only been cordial and good to this point. H@ll they are going to put a new screen on my first DNA 30 for just $10 no questions asked and I know full well that was my fault. The reason I kept saying I hoped they would replace this second board was I didn't know what else to say and my experience with getting electronics replaced has not always been great. (I think most of you can relate)

The point of this thread was that I was confused and wanted desperately to know what had happened. I thought I had done everything just as it should be done. I even bought 10 of those pptc 6a fuses so I could put 2 in both of my mods and have some left for anything else I might want to do. I spent a lot of money (it didn't end with the kit and fuses. I also had to buy several other things to make my mod) I couldn't afford and now it had just blown up in my face (figuratively or is that literally speaking :) ) so I just wanted to understand why. To know what if anything I had done wrong. Even to have someone reassure me that I had done it right and it wasn't my fault. Anything. I thank those who commented both here and in the mirror thread at the e-cigarette forum.

I hope that evolve does help me out. I am just kicking myself in the @ss real real hard right now for spending all this money.

Be well

:( Doug_xx2 :(
« Last Edit: March 12, 2014, 09:02:46 PM by Doug_xx2 »

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2014, 09:14:08 PM »
Doug, I don't think that your postings were criticizing evolv. As you  pointed out stuff happens. It probably was a defective part.
What we do here is try to determine what causes problems such as what you experienced. 9 times out of 10 it's user created but shit does happen beyond our control (bad parts) sometimes. I didn't see anything wrong with what you did. I'm willing to bet evolv will replace the board free of charge.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2014, 09:16:33 PM »
I hope so I was just talking to a friend and they said it may have come off that way.

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2014, 11:47:26 PM »
I didn't think you came across bashing Evolv and I totally understand your frustration with it all.

 

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #20 on: March 13, 2014, 03:21:56 AM »
For sure there's nothing worse that throwing good money after bad, but I don't think that's going to happen for you.  You'll probably end up with two working DNA30 mods and be happy in the end.  I can understand your frustration.  I've wasted more money on parts that I can keep track off.  Kind of the same thing, but it's cases where a whole design gets scrapped or some snafu on my part that fries parts.  Just the cost of my mod making hobby, that's how I justify it anyway.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #21 on: March 13, 2014, 08:23:19 PM »
thanks guys just trying to make sure. I appreciate the reassurance.

This is what I was doing with it if anyone is interested. I can see that I am having some heat problems around the atty connector with just the little bit of vaping I was able to do with it before it went on me. I did get to use it for a couple of hours.

Think tool box stealth vape. Although it was going to be my main vape that was what I was going for. The purple on the front won't come off I think it is the purple pvc dye for welding pvc pipes together. I hadn't decided for sure if I was gonna paint it black, use a carbon fiber tech skin or leave it. I was also considering mamu's screen cradle for it.

I thought it looked nice with the chrome tactile buttons.


LOLOLOL OMG! I just noticed you can see I am on the phone with USPS trying to get through to an operator been on hold for like an hour time to hang up
« Last Edit: March 13, 2014, 08:30:50 PM by Doug_xx2 »

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #22 on: March 21, 2014, 09:12:19 PM »
This was a reply to a question on my mirror thread on the ecf forum

What happened....

Well that is a long story...

well where to start.....

First let me say I hope that if you are using speaker wire for the battery and atty connections the insulation can withstand getting a little warm. If you wire this thing up and the insulation melts off the wires while you are vaping at a high current it might be a bad problem. and I am not thinking that 18 gauge wire will fit in the holes. 20 gauge was a tight fit.

If you are looking for something to take up the room for that screen there is a link for mamu's screen cradle that might work for you check this link for more info:

DNA Screen and Volt Meter Housings at Shapeways

If you are looking for a good 510 connector I finally ended up using this one:
Fatdaddyvapes Mechanical Mod Complete 510 Thread Repair Insert Kits | eBay
and you can get it directly from his store here:
SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vaping equipment, eliquids, and supplies!!!

As I understand it the problem with smd fuses is if you blow one then you gotta take everything apart to replace it and the ptc fuses are self resetting. Mamu has a good fuse tutorial here:

Wiring PTC Fuses

or here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/518846-about-fuses-choosing-appropriate-fuse-your-mod.html#post11996664

Breaktru says he uses loctite heavy duty professional epoxy with a five minute set time That stuff only has a 130 degree temp limit so it might not do so well around atty connectors. if you are going to use the atty connector I gave a link to from fat daddy vapes it has a nut to keep it in place though. alternately the loctite general purpose epoxy has a 300 degree limit which should be fine on an atty connector.

You are going to want a low resistance connection at the battery and the atty with wiring that is not overly long whatever you go with.

I have found that the dual 18650 battery holder that I bought from amazon is not great even after I yanked out the contacts and rewired it into a parallel configuration because at 30 watts when the batteries are under drain during heavy vaping the springs heat up and contract breaking connection and rebooting the board (when they cool and come back into place the connection is reestablished). I have not found a suitable solution to this problem yet.

You are going to want to fuse both the positive and negative sides of the battery feed so as not to burn up the board. There is no reverse polarity protection on the board at all.

If you are looking for a place to get ptc fuses or wire I bought my ptc fuses from Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor .

As far as wire choices The Ideal wire sizes are 20 gauge for the atty and battery connections and 24 for everything else. I also found 20 gauge wire to be hard to come by as my local radio shack only carried it in a solid core or a speaker or telephone wire (and I was asked more than once if I was building a bomb when trying to get 20 and 24 gauge wire from the local hardware and auto stores and tried to explain to them I needed the wire for a small piece of electronics I was building lol). I found that solid core was unsuitable as when I was trying to move stuff around to get it into my box they would break. and desoldering was a pain in the rear. I did manage it though with a solder sucker and some .050 inch no clean desoldering braid (and a second set of hands to push the button on the solder sucker. I did eventually find a hobby shop the next town over that deals with model trains and RC cars and they had 20 gauge wire. There is a range of wire sizes in the data sheet for the DNA. It can be found here:

http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna30.pdf

I too had a real problem with soldering. I guess that is because any soldering I had had to do in the past was limited to a copper pipe using a blow torch. I found the following tutorials to be very helpful especially the one about proper soldering:

Easy Tutorials



Now as far as what went wrong with that board... heh

I still don't know...

I got a replacement though with no problem.  I just I wish I knew why it did what it did....

The worst part is that the board I sent in to get the screen replaced went about pretty much immediately doing it when I got it in the box and started vaping on it. They were both from a to z vapor world. I really don't know why they did it and I am not saying it has anything to do with who I bought it from.

I can say the replacement board I got from evolv directly is not doing that and I am going on day two vaping it.

I have altered my original design in as far as I have gone with a hammond enclosure as well, scrapped the atty connector that came with the a to z kit, using a battery holder, using pptc fuses on the positive and negative sides of the battery box instead of just one side. Which is to say I have totally changed what I am building LOL but... the problem here is that the second board that fried did so in the newly designed mod configuration.

This seems very strange to me as it is now working fine with the replacement board for the one that was originally fried. I have looked both boards over and the only difference I can see with my untrained eye is that this chip seems to be different between the two boards (and of course the fact one says evolve dna and the other says a to z vapor world when I turn them on)

This is the replacement I got from evolve and it seems to be holding up
see the bottom of this thread 1st pic is the one that worked

This is the chip that was on both boards that smoked
see the bottom of this thread 2nd pic is the one that smoked

I still don't know what is up with that... I do not know why it smoked either time...I know that as of right now I have a working DNA mod that I need to finish my lexan cover for and put new battery contacts into but as to why the other two boards smoked I am completely baffled.

 I do feel like I could make another one. I am not of the opinion that I did anything in particular to make those two boards let out all of their factory smoke. I am glad that I got at least one working DNA mod out of all of this. I have a lot more into it than it would have cost me to just buy one but I have learned a lot, been put on the track to doing/learning a lot more, and have the satisfaction of having made the dang thing myself.

now for a breakdown of what I got into it :)

$6.85 at lowes for a 21/64th's and a 13/64th's drill bit and some blades for my razor knife

$8.62 at lowes for a lexan sheet and some finishing washers (didn't end up using the washers)
around $10.00 at walmart for loctite general purpose epoxy (300 degree temp rating) and some craft foam for spacing I decided not to use.

$15.31 at fat daddy vapes for atty connector's to be honest it is for three only used one.

$19.88 on ebay to buy the professional strength loctite epoxy

$36.00 on amazon for an enclosure, heatshrink, desoldering braid, and battery holder

$13.38 at mouser electronics for 10 pptc fuses

$85.00 at a to z vapor world for a ($45.00) dna 30d

$124.99 at a to z vapor world for a dna board, three spherical chrome tactile switches, one slider switch, and a cheap silver plated atty connector (I did not use the atty connector).

$8.00 from radio shack.com for a roll of silver bearing solder.

$25.00 for an adjustable wattage soldering iron

$5.00 for a fine point soldering iron tip from radioshack.com

$20.00 for two fifty foot rolls of 20 gauge wire from a local hobby shop (wanted two different colors one for positive one for negative)

$71.57 for RadioShack Electronics Components Pack 1 Model: 2760253  | Catalog #: 276-253 (to be fair this and the next item are for me to learn electronics using the platt electronics book and nothing in them was suitable for building this mod other than something from me to learn on)

$89.46 RadioShack Electronics Components Pack 2 Model: 2760254  | Catalog #: 276-254 (again to be fair this and the last item was for me to learn electronics using the platt electronics book and nothing in them was suitable for building this mod other than something from me to learn on)

and a few dollars on other things I did not end up using for what ever reason.

I believe I have 529.06 tied up in building this thing plus a few odds and ends (lol that sucks). I can hope that evolve will replace this second board that burnt but I am not going to plan on it. maybe they will maybe they won't but at least I know I can build one of these and what I need to use to do it and I have at least one working mod out of it. I do have enough epoxy and wire and solder and some other things to last forever to lol. I also have a new hobby. I know it will get better from here. I also invested a little over $40.00 to buy a vamo v5 a couple of days ago after the second a to z board let out all of it's factory smoke just in case this now third attempt did not work out.

I will post a pic when I get the cover done and I know this one is going to keep working lol. give me about a week as I got some other things that I have been neglecting lately that need to be taken care of first but at this stage I must say that it has been up and working since about 1:30 am last night and right now it is 8:37 pm I live on the night shift so I was sleeping between 6:30 am and 1:00 pm today



I would also like to take this opportunity to thank breaktru, craighb, mamu, bapgood, skyfntm, retird for spoon feeding this hungry newb all the way as it would not have happened at all without all of their help.

All I can say is wow what a learning experience. Now I am going to try to learn how to make the step down and boost boards myself, try to get an rma for this second fried board, and set out on the road to enlightenment to the fascinating world of micro electronics.

Wish me luck...
I'm gonna need it!
:vapor:

I hope this all helped someone
Doug_xx2


here are the two pics

Offline doug1960

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2014, 12:03:09 AM »
that is strange (edited) i hope it gets solved for you
« Last Edit: March 22, 2014, 08:00:27 PM by doug1960 »

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2014, 03:09:40 AM »
I think that is an inductor

Offline doug1960

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #25 on: March 22, 2014, 09:40:10 AM »
yes sorry i even said micro henry to myself and then typed capacitor. sucks getting old

Offline CraigHB

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #26 on: March 22, 2014, 02:34:55 PM »
Those are both inductors, one is made by Vishay and the other I don't know.  I recognize the package and printing in the bottom photo.  It's one of the Vishay IHLP series which I use myself, good parts. 

Those values are Henries which is a unit of inductance, 4.7 micro-Henries.  That's surprisingly high.  I juse .68 uH which is almost a tenth that.  Lower is better for efficiency, higher losses with the higher inductance.  Inductors are wire coils around a core and they have resistance.  Resistance wastes power, 5 mOhms versus 40 mOhms comparing a .68 and 4.7 uH inductor.  Higher inductance has some advantages, but nothing you can't compensate for when using a lower inductance.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #27 on: March 23, 2014, 02:57:30 AM »
Ah even better yet a manufacturer and some technical info for me to look at. Now I am just guessing here but could you tell me are the two square black chips without markings next to it one of which has burnt on both of my first two boards capacitors? I am trying to piece together what has happened this time since while I did get a replacement for the first one that burnt I didn't get any sort of explanation as to why it happened.

(this was supposed to also help me learn something about how these things worked in addition to teaching me how to put one together. at least that was the idea anyway)


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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #28 on: March 23, 2014, 03:16:26 AM »
It looks like you a blew a MOSFET.  I can't tell if it's the energizer or the rectifier.  If I could tell which one it was, I might be able to narrow down some causes.  Whatever, the case, the only thing that can do that to a MOSFET is a short circuit. 

If the energizer failed to shut down due to a controller error, it would blow like that.  The energizer basically shorts the inductor to ground.  Not a problem when it's doing it at 500KHz with a normal duty cycle but it if the controller hangs even for a fraction a second, bye bye MOSFET.

If there was an atomizer short and the logic circuits (ucontroller) failed to shut down the power stage, then the rectifier would blow like that.

Otherwise, it's possible an internal defect in a MOSFET can cause a hard short.  They are sensitive to ESD and it's not out of the question for them to get damaged in production, though there are all kinds of safeguards for that in the assembly equipment they use.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #29 on: March 23, 2014, 03:26:31 AM »
This time I was holding it in my hand watching it blow up when it happened first smoke came out of the seams around the lid on the inductor and then the other chip smoked before I could get the batteries out of the box.

And could you please refresh my memory a little I know I read it somewhere but I do not remember what a mosfet does


BTW all I did was to clip the wires on the old board and solder the new one evolve sent me to replace the first burn up in and it worked with no problem so I don't think any of my wiring was shorted.

You know this last one that blew was my original board and I had to remove and replace all of the old wiring because I had used solid core wire and it was breaking off....
Could the I have over heated it while I was doing that somehow and caused this to happen?
« Last Edit: March 23, 2014, 03:38:26 AM by Doug_xx2 »

Offline CraigHB

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #30 on: March 23, 2014, 03:58:42 AM »
Could the I have over heated it while I was doing that somehow and caused this to happen?

No, the logic circuits should not allow a condition to persist that can damage the power stage including atomizer shorts and overloads.

MOSFET=switch

If the inductor got hot enough to smoke, then it's the energizer MOSFET that failed.  Could have been a controller failure or a MOSFET failure.  If the converter controller failed leaving that MOSFET on, the inductor and MOSFET would get red hot.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #31 on: March 23, 2014, 04:02:40 AM »
Well I watched smoke literally jet out all the way around the cover for the inductor
then the other chip smoked and I yanked the batteries... When I put them back in it came on but would only fire at battery voltage\

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #32 on: March 23, 2014, 04:17:54 AM »
That's because the energizer MOSFET is responsible for boosting voltage.  With that blown the converter is not doing anything so all you get coming out is battery voltage.  Those particular inductors are actually potted in a special epoxy.  It should have exploded, but it just cracked and then the smoke jetted out.

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #33 on: March 23, 2014, 04:33:38 AM »
ah ok I think I got it. so if I didn't short it out and the mosfet and inductor weren't damaged during soldering then maybe another defective chip?

They both came from the same retailer in fairly quick sucession so maybe they got a bad batch of mosfets?

Is there a way I can tell before I ask for an rma to send it back
« Last Edit: March 23, 2014, 04:38:31 AM by Doug_xx2 »

Offline Doug_xx2

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Re: why did my dna 30 board just...
« Reply #34 on: March 23, 2014, 05:20:34 AM »
ah well I'm off to bed tty tomorrow. I appreciate the info. I'm going to have to do some reading on this one I think.

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