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Breaktru Forum  |  eCigarette Forum  |  Modding  |  Topic: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
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Author Topic: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...  (Read 152216 times)

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Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #300 on: March 02, 2015, 05:19:20 PM »
Did you use the positive logic OKL2-T20?  The wiring here is for the negative logic.

Offline wallie88

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #301 on: March 02, 2015, 11:18:32 PM »
Thank you. It's is the posistive logic t20.

Offline bamanerd

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #302 on: April 05, 2015, 09:52:38 AM »
Hi again everyone! I hope you've all had great couple of months!!

I'm back at it. My hiatus lasted a little longer than anticipated, but I started work on an OKL2-T20 yesterday. This will be my first mod with this board. So far, I've gotten all of my leads attached to the board, tucked away, and wrapped up.

Things are definitely going more smoothly than my first box, lol. It really helps to have done this before. It still requires a lot of patience and imagination, but having already made several mistakes and learned from them, this should prove to be a much more pleasant experience!

Here are a few pics of how I wired the board:








I know a lot of people want to see how everyone does this, so I've tried to take some decent progress pics, all of which I will upload to a new thread for this build. You can see that I've soldered the caps directly to the pad (or maybe you can't see...but I tried, lol) Lots of people ask about this, so I'll try to have more clear pics on the thread.

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to let me have it! I have very thick skin, so don't hold back!! I'll try to help in any way I can. If I don't have an answer.... well.... that's why we have Craig hangin' around! :P

I'm really excited to get back to building! I've gotta run to Lowe's this morning to pick up some epoxy and whatnot, but as soon as I'm back.... it's on!  :rockin smiley:
« Last Edit: April 05, 2015, 10:24:34 AM by bamanerd »

Offline eveshka

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #303 on: April 09, 2015, 04:14:30 AM »
This setup looks nice.

Offline everett464

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #304 on: April 17, 2015, 04:06:37 AM »
I just wired up an OKL T20 and I am getting a clicky sound at the low end of the pot - no fire, just clicks. At .52 ohms I was able to fire somewhere around 4 volts, at 1.6 ohms it didn't fire until 4.5 or so.
Any ideas? It's a negative logic board, wired as per mamu's guide, without caps, diodes, etc.

Offline everett464

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #305 on: April 18, 2015, 03:38:17 AM »
Ok folks, I've figured it out (after wiring a second board the same exact way). Not only did I forget the resistor on the pot leg, but I wired my pot backwards. Sincerest apologies. I appreciate the help. Doh:

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #306 on: April 18, 2015, 04:27:51 PM »
Well, that happens even to those of us that have been doing electronics projects for ages.  The first thing I look at when I have a problem is my wiring.  The vast majority of the time I find something there I did wrong.

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #307 on: April 22, 2015, 05:39:53 PM »
Hey so I was hoping to get some quick help. I'm trying to design a PCB that I will open source that you can just solder the OKL2 on, solder in your through-hole components, jumper the rest and you're done. I normally just jank all my stuff together by hand so I am not very good at this so I need some help haha.

Are you guys just tying all your GND lines together or actually attaching them to something? Also, I want to use an seven segment display, if I'm not mistaken I need to mount pin1 to the +Sense and pin2 to the -Sense right?

Offline dc99

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #308 on: April 22, 2015, 09:53:28 PM »
Something like this? Theres a few been designed
https://www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/rn413IO3

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #309 on: April 23, 2015, 01:06:34 PM »
Something like this? Theres a few been designed
https://www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/rn413IO3

Pretty much, but I'm hoping to cram it in a 1590G enclosure so I'm not sure if that one will work.

Offline dc99

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #310 on: April 23, 2015, 04:23:37 PM »
Should be easily doable with the right sled. I have a few I got from a guy on ebay that slide the batteries way to the right. David4500 has a real nice one on shapeway. http://www.shapeways.com/product/LQTRK7PNZ/18650-dual-holder-staggered-v1?li=search-results-1&optionId=55531890

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #311 on: April 23, 2015, 04:24:33 PM »
Are you guys just tying all your GND lines together or actually attaching them to something?

Not sure exactly what your asking, but typically with PCBs and grounds you use a "ground plane".  In your PCB design software you should be doing a copper fill on the bottom to serve as ground and run your circuit traces on the top side.  Any ground connections you need for components on top should connect to the ground plane through a via.  You usually can't avoid a few traces cut into the ground plane, but it's best to avoid that as much as possible.  The more solid the ground plane the better.

Ground planes are important for reducing electrical noise and it also makes it more convenient to route your component connections.  Ground connections are the most common ones and they can be picked up from a ground plane easily with a via or array of vias for high current connections.

With home made PCBs doing two sided boards with vias can be rather involved.  It's possible, but not really worth the effort when you can get them fabbed for cheap from places like Osh Park.  For a home made single sided board you can use a copper fill to act as your ground plane.  Doesn't work all that well since you have to cut it up pretty heavily to route component connections.  It's much better to use a ground plane with a two sided board.


« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 04:34:35 PM by CraigHB »

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #312 on: April 24, 2015, 05:29:36 PM »
Not sure exactly what your asking, but typically with PCBs and grounds you use a "ground plane".  In your PCB design software you should be doing a copper fill on the bottom to serve as ground and run your circuit traces on the top side.  Any ground connections you need for components on top should connect to the ground plane through a via.  You usually can't avoid a few traces cut into the ground plane, but it's best to avoid that as much as possible.  The more solid the ground plane the better.

Ground planes are important for reducing electrical noise and it also makes it more convenient to route your component connections.  Ground connections are the most common ones and they can be picked up from a ground plane easily with a via or array of vias for high current connections.

With home made PCBs doing two sided boards with vias can be rather involved.  It's possible, but not really worth the effort when you can get them fabbed for cheap from places like Osh Park.  For a home made single sided board you can use a copper fill to act as your ground plane.  Doesn't work all that well since you have to cut it up pretty heavily to route component connections.  It's much better to use a ground plane with a two sided board.

Yeah sorry I should have been way more clear. I understand how it works on fabbed PCBs, I was wondering how you did the ground when wiring by hand. Did you just attach the ground wires directly to the case (if metal) wherever convenient? Or did you have them all meet at a central point and just connect to each other?

Offline everett464

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #313 on: April 24, 2015, 05:45:34 PM »
I ran through this last week - started this thread with some pics.

E

http://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/32pwu2/ground_wire_bundles_okl_t20/

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #314 on: April 24, 2015, 06:07:34 PM »
I ran through this last week - started this thread with some pics.

E

http://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/32pwu2/ground_wire_bundles_okl_t20/

Thanks for the resource, but it still doesn't mention exactly how/where they're connecting the GND wires. It looks like he's just connecting them all at one spot and not connecting them to the case, but I just want to be sure.

Offline everett464

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #315 on: April 24, 2015, 06:27:52 PM »
He is me, and in that instance, the ground circuit is tied to the box through the atty - just like most of these boxes.

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #316 on: April 24, 2015, 06:28:52 PM »
He is me, and in that instance, the ground circuit is tied to the box through the atty - just like most of these boxes.

So you just run all the ground lines together and terminate them at the - atomizer contact?

Online Breaktru

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #317 on: April 24, 2015, 07:15:50 PM »
It depends on where and how your parts lay.
I would run a heavy gauge gnd wire from the battery (-) to which ever is closer, the 510 or Pin 4 on the board. If the 510 is closer than from 510 to pin 4 or vice versa. All the rest of the gnd connections are light gauge and can be connected to the nearest ground point as mentioned above.

Keep wiring as short as possible. Go for the shortest run.

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #318 on: April 24, 2015, 07:18:11 PM »
It depends on where and how your parts lay.
I would run a heavy gauge gnd wire from the battery (-) to which ever is closer, the 510 or Pin 4 on the board. If the 510 is closer than from 510 to pin 4 or vice versa. All the rest of the gnd connections are light gauge and can be connected to the nearest ground point as mentioned above.

Keep wiring as short as possible. Go for the shortest run.

Great to know, thanks! The last piece I'm missing (I'm hoping to have a "no shit" moment) is the other ground points. I get that connecting to the box is not the way to go, so would the best route be to connect every line that goes to ground to either the 510- or PCB-, or could I run them to both depending on which one is closer to the particular ground line I'm working with?

Online Breaktru

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #319 on: April 24, 2015, 07:26:11 PM »
The other ground points can be connected to the nearest heavy gauge point. They don't all have to be connected to the same point. You can use the closes 510, pin 4 or the batt (-) for the neg light gauge points. Each can be at a different heavy gauge connection points.

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #320 on: April 24, 2015, 07:27:42 PM »
The other ground points can be connected to the nearest heavy gauge point. They don't all have to be connected to the same point. You can use the closes 510, pin 4 or the batt (-) for the neg light gauge points. Each can be at a different heavy gauge connection.

Awesome thanks for the help guys! Last question, I'm assuming it would be ok (for example) to just connect a wire I need to ground directly to the negative battery terminal where the heavy gauge wire connects?

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #321 on: May 05, 2015, 02:15:57 PM »
I think I have the wiring all figured out after receiving help from you guys; so a thousand thank you's for that. Now I am going over everything to see if I can save any space anywhere. I looked high and low for an SMD fuse that matched the specs of the fuses listed in the first post but I had no luck. What I was able to find were these: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=2920L500%2f16MRvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-2920L500%2f16MR.

Would I be able to wire 4 of those 16V 5A guys in parallel? I rarely work with fuses so have very little experience with them.

My plan is to mount any SMD version of the listed components I can find on an SMD proto board and place it directly under the OKL board.

Does anyone see any reason I wouldn't be able to use this P-Channel MOSFET? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/SPD50P03L-G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi9Xn%2fBYY8cyRFNbcNaxpP1M%3d

Since the N-Channel is so small I'm not going to bother trying to fin an SMD version.

Any help on the above is greatly appreciated. Hopefully this can help anyone trying to use a 1590G in the future.

Offline screwfunk

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #322 on: May 17, 2015, 10:54:54 AM »
I thought I would share really quick on how I wire up the OKL. It really helps me to make it compact and clean. I solder the mosfet legs directly to the chip like so. It makes for a rather thin build. I just strap the fuses to the top and away we go. You cant really see it but the drain leg is folded upwards and I have it folded over and soldered to one side of my fuses.

[/url]

OKL

Hope this helps...

Sam
« Last Edit: May 17, 2015, 11:25:19 PM by screwfunk »

Online Breaktru

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #323 on: May 17, 2015, 11:26:01 AM »
I thought I would share really quick on how I wire up the OKL. It really helps me to make it compact and clean. I solder the mosfet legs directly to the chip like so. It makes for a rather thin build. I just strap the fuses to the top and away we go. You cant really see it but the drain leg is folded upwards and I have it folded over and soldered to one side of my fuses.

Hope this helps...

Sam

Very good Sam. I luv compact parts and wiring layouts.

Offline SoLongSidekick

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #324 on: May 20, 2015, 02:32:39 PM »
I thought I would share really quick on how I wire up the OKL. It really helps me to make it compact and clean. I solder the mosfet legs directly to the chip like so. It makes for a rather thin build. I just strap the fuses to the top and away we go. You cant really see it but the drain leg is folded upwards and I have it folded over and soldered to one side of my fuses.


Sam

That's outstanding, thanks for posting! So are you not using the twin parallel caps from Vin to Gnd?

Offline Poppy26

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #325 on: May 20, 2015, 04:32:38 PM »
Thanks Sam for posting. Very helpful

Offline screwfunk

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #326 on: June 05, 2015, 02:50:48 AM »
@SoLongSidekick

Check out the second picture. on the right hand side right next to the fet. That little square package with two black wires hanging out to the left. That is the Dual caps.

Sam Champlin

Offline krazymonkeys

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #327 on: June 30, 2015, 07:46:06 PM »
I was curious if any of you ever tried out using PTFE resistance wore for load testing these mods? You can get wire that's wrapped in fiber glass that withstands over 1000* F in many different ranges of resistance.  May not be truly necessary, but when doing your initial test builds and finding out what works, it's nice to have a much more easily configurable load that you can't melt or otherwise destroy. Beats risking an atty or components.

Offline SDaddy

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #328 on: July 05, 2015, 03:11:34 PM »
Going to try this one myself here. Question though: Is it ok to use the n-fet posted  without the zener diode? As in as just using it as the switch activator?

Offline lakethomason

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #329 on: July 09, 2015, 03:45:54 AM »
Wow! I was reading this thread a year ago, can't believe it's still alive. You guys are awesome.

I just have a few questions

1. What happened to mamumods.com/forum !!?

2. Input caps! I have this feeling in the back of my head that I read the answer somewhere in here, but ctrl f 'caps' on every page brought no answers :( ... What gauge wire is recommended for the output caps? 20?

Now that summer is here (again) I'm here to finish my 1590g okl t20 box!

cheers

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #330 on: July 09, 2015, 11:19:55 AM »
Going to try this one myself here. Question though: Is it ok to use the n-fet posted  without the zener diode? As in as just using it as the switch activator?

Yes, is ok - the zener is not required for the circuit to work correctly.

Wow! I was reading this thread a year ago, can't believe it's still alive. You guys are awesome.

I just have a few questions

1. What happened to mamumods.com/forum !!?

2. Input caps! I have this feeling in the back of my head that I read the answer somewhere in here, but ctrl f 'caps' on every page brought no answers :( ... What gauge wire is recommended for the output caps? 20?

Now that summer is here (again) I'm here to finish my 1590g okl t20 box!

cheers

I turned the forum off quite some time ago.

Caps are optional for this converter.  I use input caps, but there is no need for output caps.   No conduction current flows through the cap, so very thin gauge is aok.  I solder resister legs to the ends of the cap, then heat shrink the works.

Offline lakethomason

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #331 on: July 09, 2015, 02:02:53 PM »
Ah, thanks for the reply mamu! Are you on reddit much? I'd give you gold for sticking to this thread for so long! ;D

From your comments, I made my own P version okl 20 diagram, would you mind checking it out?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4bLHfNgUpiNNXJxWFlNYUFzNkdVVXhyZUgxank4WFVScEhn/view

Offline SDaddy

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #332 on: July 09, 2015, 07:30:14 PM »
Yes, is ok - the zener is not required for the circuit to work correctly.

Thanks Mamu!   Should have this done sometime Saturday!   :rockin smiley:

Offline lakethomason

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #333 on: July 10, 2015, 03:53:32 AM »
Just got my jumbled mess of wires all together and good news is, it works!

Bad news is that my output is a little odd.

When my poteniometer is cranked to the max, the output only reads at about 3.37 volts, while cranked down, it reads 0.68 volts.

Its odd because thats about a 2.5 volt difference, which is the same as the 3.0 to 5.5 it should be reading at.

I have the 1k potentiometer thats listed in the parts in the OP, and I have the correct resistor on there.

Anyone have a clue as to what could be going wrong?

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #334 on: July 10, 2015, 08:38:41 AM »
Sounds like you may have an open portion of the resistance sweep in your pot. A voltage output of 0.69V indicates "OPEN".
Try another pot.

Offline lakethomason

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #335 on: July 10, 2015, 04:14:37 PM »
Thanks breaktru!

Somehow the pot worked this morning! Got it reading a solid 5.5 when cranked up.
My only problem now is autofiring :/
Unfortunately I'm using the positive okl t 20 chip, I read through mamu's advice and wired 20k from on/off to ground, and I wired the the button from on/off to vin. I don't have sense wired yet.
Any idea what i'm doing wrong here :/

EDIT: Aaaaaaand I'm an idiot.
I have the negative version. Had the positive before, thought it didnt work, used the negative version that I bought a few months ago thinking it was another positive version. Time to wire this baby up for reals.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2015, 05:05:22 PM by lakethomason »

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #336 on: July 11, 2015, 09:28:28 AM »
EDIT: Aaaaaaand I'm an idiot.
I have the negative version. Had the positive before, thought it didnt work, used the negative version that I bought a few months ago thinking it was another positive version. Time to wire this baby up for reals.

Shit happens. We've all been there too

There could be dead spot on the pot.. hence the 0.68V output.
When you get it rewired up, try moving the pot very slowly to see if you hit a dead spot.

Offline lakethomason

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #337 on: July 17, 2015, 04:56:24 AM »
Guys, I did it :D

The lid had to be ground down to the max, which is entirely my fault.
..and I had to electric tape everything because I was still getting some weird short.
 and I still don't have a knob for my potentiometer..

But I did it! I have more pics if you guys want more ;)


Offline bamanerd

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #338 on: July 20, 2015, 10:03:29 AM »
Nice setup Screwfunk!! I'm definitely going to put as much as I can on the board next go-round.

**edit** You too, lakeT! Looking good!!

I had to take a little time off for family funks, but I'm back in the saddle now. I got everything wired up and into the box before my little hiatus, but I still needed to tie in my grounds and tidy things up.

When I picked back up, I ran into an issue. I wasn't getting any power output. When I checked with the dmm, I had 8.4x volts across my sled, but it just wasn't getting to the board....  Being out of the game for so long again, I wasn't really in my groove. I started pulling parts out to check for cold solder joints (i've never had a cold solder joint), and I just didn't see anything wrong.

So.... I took a step back, breathed for a few minutes, fixed me a cup-a-joe, and my brain started working again. I realized that I was sticking the probes of my dmm down in between the battery terminals and the sled contacts. I noticed that if I moved to the outside of the contacts (not touching the batteries themselves), I wasn't getting power across. Since I did get 8.4x volts touching the (+) of one battery and the (-) of the other, I knew that the two contacts connecting the batteries in series were good, so it had to be either the positive end of the series or the negative end. Turns out I wasn't getting good contact at the positive point.

I pulled the batts out, bent the contact out a little, stuck them back in, and viola! Power!!

Moral of this story.... Troubleshooting 101: Always start with your battery holder (as I've read here many times).

It looks like crap now because I had to splice components back into the circuit, but I've almost got it all back together. I hope to finish it up tonight after work. I'll get some pics up when I'm happy with what I've got.

Good luck everyone! And don't get discouraged!! Things are usually simpler than we're making them out to be.  ;cheers;
« Last Edit: July 20, 2015, 10:14:31 AM by bamanerd »

Offline bamanerd

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #339 on: July 21, 2015, 09:18:35 AM »
Okay... I got everything tied back in last night, and she fired right up.

Problem: My Vo range is abnormally high, 6.05V-7.xx.

When I get home this evening I'll see what I can do. It was late when I finished up, so I shut her down while I was ahead. Any progress is good progress, right?

My pot is epoxied into the enclosure already, so that's gonna be a real pita if I need to swap it out, but I'll manage. I have a couple different pots in my stash, some 200ohm and some 1kOhm, for different boards, but I really thought I used a 1k. I keep them in separate bins. Would a 200Ohm pot cause the voltage range to run that high? I'll pull out my dmm tonight and test the pot to make sure.

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #340 on: July 21, 2015, 10:05:23 AM »

Problem: My Vo range is abnormally high, 6.05V-7.xx.

Would a 200Ohm pot cause the voltage range to run that high?


Yes 200 ohm pot is too low. Also your fixed resistor is either too low or not wired in correctly.
Even with the wrong pot zeroed out, the fixed resistor alone comes into play giving you the top end of the voltage output range.
Hint: The lower the ohmage the higher the output voltage and visa versa.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2015, 10:12:45 AM by Breaktru »

Offline bamanerd

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #341 on: July 21, 2015, 10:15:35 AM »
Yes 200 ohm pot is too low. Also your fixed resistor is either too low or not wired in correctly.
Hint: The lower the ohmage the higher the output voltage and visa versa.

Awesome, thanks man!! I didn't even think about my fixed resistor. I'll check everything when I get home from work.

Offline bamanerd

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #342 on: July 21, 2015, 08:40:39 PM »
That was it. I forgot to put the fixed resistor back in the circuit....

3.5-5.5Vo

Now I've just gotta tidy up, and I'll be done with this one. Thanks again Breaktru! It always pays to have a little outside perspective!

 :rockin smiley:

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #343 on: July 21, 2015, 08:53:59 PM »
Great. Good to hear it's working now.

Offline bamanerd

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #344 on: July 23, 2015, 10:03:16 AM »
Great. Good to hear it's working now.

Thanks man. It definitely feels good to finally finish what I started back in April.

I thought I'd upload a few pics for you guys. You'll have to excuse the nasty mess of wires. As I said in an earlier post, I got a little frustrated while troubleshooting and cut the components out, just to find out that it was completely unnecessary
 :wallbash:

So... what you're seeing is a bunch of excess wire from splicing everything back into the circuit. I'm not planning on selling this one to anyone, so I wasn't too worried about looks. As long as it vapes, it's good. I have all the parts (minus an enclosure) to build another like it, so I'll be starting on that sometime soon.
Although, I've gotta get a new soldering iron. I was trying to change the tip, and it twisted and broke right off.... Luckily, I have a nice butane torch with a soldering attachment, so I could make the final few solders to finish this one up.

This first pic is from a couple months back, before everything was cut out.








Side by side with my Raptor mod.


This is an inside view with some text boxes I added at work yesterday. I thought it might be helpful to some of those who haven't finished one yet.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2015, 10:39:53 AM by bamanerd »

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #345 on: July 23, 2015, 11:27:17 AM »
Really came out rather well  :rockin smiley:
Nice looking pot too

Offline vaperkarma

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #346 on: July 23, 2015, 11:34:22 AM »
good one bamanered. looking good guy  :thumbsup:

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #347 on: July 23, 2015, 12:03:11 PM »
Thank you much, fellas!  :beer-toast:

I can't wait to get started on the next.

**edit** I'd REALLY love to try an MCU build. I've been doing some reading on it, but I don't know that I'm quite ready to start one. I've got some C++ experience, so that should definitely help. I just like to do as much research as I can before I get started on anything.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2015, 12:07:03 PM by bamanerd »

Offline MonkeyTokes

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #348 on: July 25, 2015, 01:45:39 PM »
I read through this thread several times in anticipation of of he arrival of my okl2-t/20s with my PWM PCB components. Well they arrived yesterday and I've got the box wired up, had some issues that it wouldn't fire at all even though voltage was entering and exiting the chip as expected, until I removed the positive sense from the positive terminal to Vout ( I now realize its supposed to be connected to either the positive 510 or Vout -_- durrr). Anyway, now its working great but I have a high pitched squeal when I turn it up past about 50%. I've searched this and couldn't find much about it. Is this normal?

I haven't gone all out with it yet(left the fuses, caps, pfet and diode out), just went for the minimalist, working mod and plan to add the caps, fuses, and everything else in when I have more time, so I'm not sure if that could be the cause since I didn't use the capacitors?

Thanks for any help, and thank you Manu for the awesome, easy to follow diagrams! Its greatly appreciated

Offline hill115side

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #349 on: July 25, 2015, 01:56:00 PM »
Hello guy

I did go off and design a PCB board for the T20 and others as well.  Just wanted to show you what I can up with.

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