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Breaktru Forum  |  eCigarette Forum  |  Modding  |  Topic: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
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Author Topic: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...  (Read 152226 times)

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Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #50 on: May 07, 2014, 04:31:18 PM »
I don't think it was the meter, Visus.

Sounds like a case where you got hit with the parasitic effect of breadboarding.  The feedback circuits can be sensitive to that.  Good to hear you got it worked out though.

I agree the data sheet is sketchy on that part.  Knowing the function of the sense pads and that they are internally connected would have been nice information to have.  For my own circuits, I'll often pass on parts that don't have a comprehensive data sheet.  Big ding on that one.

I agree - there is a world of difference between Murata and GE and TI datasheets in how well written and comprehensive they are.  I don't have an electronics background so I learn as I go and good datasheets help me a lot there.

What I'm torqued about though (with myself) is I never once considered it might be the breadboard causing issues and I should have as I've ran down that road before.  I especially didn't realize the feedback loop would be affected by it.  First time I've worked with Sense and a feedback loop.

aah well.. it was a journey and a good learning experience for me. If I get hit with something like this again though, somebody just shoot me.  :laughing:
« Last Edit: May 07, 2014, 04:36:35 PM by mamu »

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #51 on: May 07, 2014, 04:35:26 PM »
double post

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #52 on: May 07, 2014, 04:57:25 PM »
Craig said he will sell you his for like 10 bucks in a deleted post but I was upset so he sold it to me for 15 lol...

Hehe, you'd have to pry it from my cold dead hands, it's this one; http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=48&prodid=284 and I got a really good deal on it so that one's going to be around for a long time.

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #53 on: May 07, 2014, 05:10:21 PM »
I have a Fluke.

Funny story with how I got it.  A good forum friend sent it to me a few years back when I posted pics of testing something (can't recall what I was testing now) with my cheapie Radio Shack multimeter.  Said a modder needs a good DMM and he felt sorry for me with using a Radio Shack one.  lol.

Offline Chenderson1985

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #54 on: May 07, 2014, 05:25:19 PM »
I am very new to modding. I have only built a DNA 30 and an Altoids can PV from a vamo pcb. I ordered on of these chips and got it in today. Before I start on this I don’t know if I fully understand your wiring diagram Mamu. I see that there is a 20K Ohm resistor on connections 1 and 2. Do I need to connect these two areas? This will be my first undertaking with a chip like this so any advice would be very appreciated.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #55 on: May 07, 2014, 05:28:38 PM »
I don't have an electronics background so I learn as I go and good datasheets help me a lot there.

90% of what a data sheet contains does not require any technical expertise, it's just a matter of saying this does this and that does that.  Sometimes they get really technical, but most of what you need just to hook up a part is either there or it isn't.  In the case of the OKL, it just isn't there.  They didn't even provide a typical application circuit which is like the most basic aspect of any data sheet.

Quote
What I'm torqued about though (with myself) is I never once considered it might be the breadboard causing issues and I should have as I've ran down that road before.  I especially didn't realize the feedback loop would be affected by it.  First time I've worked with Sense and a feedback loop.

I've been nailed by that before, it happens.  When I do breadboard work, I do a mix of PCB and breadboard connections.  Breadboards alone just cause too many strange problems and then like you found out, you spend a bunch of time chasing your tail.  Though they can work well for some things

A good rule for breadboarding is if it's a high impedance signal, put it on a PCB.  If it's low impedance signal, a breadboard is fine.  The high impedance stuff is what's sensitive to the effects of a breadboard.  Things like digital buses or logic signals or, like you found out, feedback circuits are high impedance. 

But yeah, it's a learning experience.  I learn new stuff every time I start a new project and I've been doing electronics for decades.

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #56 on: May 07, 2014, 05:35:02 PM »
I've always experienced problems w/ breadboards so I usually solder most everything. If I'm testing part values that may need to be changed, I solder on alligator clips.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #57 on: May 07, 2014, 05:39:47 PM »
I have a Fluke.

Funny story with how I got it.  A good forum friend sent it to me a few years back when I posted pics of testing something (can't recall what I was testing now) with my cheapie Radio Shack multimeter.  Said a modder needs a good DMM and he felt sorry for me with using a Radio Shack one.  lol.

Flukes are probably the best meters out there, but they're pricey.  A Fluke with the same functionality as my Extech would probably be close to a grand.  I can handle a couple hundred bucks for a good meter, but a grand is way out of my price range.  Anyway, that's awesome someone gave you a Fluke, they're all expensive.

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #58 on: May 07, 2014, 06:13:42 PM »
I am very new to modding. I have only built a DNA 30 and an Altoids can PV from a vamo pcb. I ordered on of these chips and got it in today. Before I start on this I don’t know if I fully understand your wiring diagram Mamu. I see that there is a 20K Ohm resistor on connections 1 and 2. Do I need to connect these two areas? This will be my first undertaking with a chip like this so any advice would be very appreciated.

The 20K resistor in this circuit pulls high the on/off control which turns the converter off, preventing it from auto-firing.  Without this pull-up resistor, the converter would always be on, always firing - with and without pressing the fire switch.

One end of the 20K resistor is connected to pin 1 and the other end of the resistor is connected to pin 2.

Offline Visus

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #59 on: May 07, 2014, 10:08:20 PM »
I have a Fluke.

Funny story with how I got it.  A good forum friend sent it to me a few years back when I posted pics of testing something (can't recall what I was testing now) with my cheapie Radio Shack multimeter.  Said a modder needs a good DMM and he felt sorry for me with using a Radio Shack one.  lol.

I was hoping there data sheet and tech talk did not tell us wrong since the OKR is stable without caps. 
I built Breaks welder and was surprised at how fast those meters drain a cap
I put it to effect here what may happen on  feedbacks +a breadboard
"whats in between the atomizer"

Meh

Fluke FTW  ;hubba;

My company gives ya one when we turn journeyman in the third rail dept.
I made journeyman via a retirement/seniority by transferring out of third rail into the treasury dept and missed out on the fluke.
I so wanted the fluke but we get an engineer shadow if accuracy needed with flukes and gizmo's..
They no play around with cash collects and he gets the goodies..
Became a glorified parts changer  :laughing:

I owe ya a margarita in Monaco --  :thumbsup:




 


Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #60 on: May 08, 2014, 04:35:03 PM »
lol Visus - I may take you up on that margarita.  :laughing:

I've always experienced problems w/ breadboards so I usually solder most everything. If I'm testing part values that may need to be changed, I solder on alligator clips.

That's a good tip breaktru with using alligator clips.  Just bought some spares to have plenty on hand.

Thinking back on this, it was just strange that for over a day the OKL worked correctly until the input volts <7.5v - so I associated that with the OKL.  Then put an output cap and tied in Sense and everything aok for a while.  Then got funky again - so associated that with the OKL too.  Strange stuff.

OKL is doing great now and has been stable with the output with the direct connections.  So it was def the breadboard. 

Am curious now if I tied Sense directly at the converter instead of directly at the load, but aint gonna mess with it anymore.   :laughing:  Is good to go as is.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #61 on: May 09, 2014, 12:54:54 AM »
Am curious now if I tied Sense directly at the converter instead of directly at the load, but aint gonna mess with it anymore.

You can probably do that if you want, the only difference is the regulation point is where the sense pickups are so you would get the added voltage drop of the wiring between the board connections and the atomizer connector.  It's probably not enough of a drop to be concerned about.  Maybe a couple mOhms of wiring which results in an extra 40mV at 20A.  It would save you the trouble of running wires to the atomizer connector for the sense pickups. 

Probably not worth the trouble this time, but if you build another one, you could just jump the sense connections to the Vout and ground pads on the board, or just leave them disconnected since they're already connected internally.


« Last Edit: May 09, 2014, 12:59:54 AM by CraigHB »

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #62 on: May 13, 2014, 01:03:25 AM »
hi manu i was wondering which one did you get? because when i go to the  site theres two different kind of this chip.. one of them is sold out..

http://in.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=OKL2-T%2f20-W12

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #63 on: May 13, 2014, 02:41:31 AM »
The title of my wiring guide in the OP has the one I use - OKL2-T/20-W12N2-C

Offline zotek

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #64 on: May 13, 2014, 02:59:22 AM »
yah i saw the sorry i came back here to delete my post but it was to late you already saw my post..eheh sory..

by the way mamu is the  wiring on the fist post is UPDATED?  are you using the sense connection?

thanks
« Last Edit: May 13, 2014, 03:11:59 AM by zotek »

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #65 on: May 13, 2014, 03:43:35 AM »
lol that's ok, zotek.

Yes, the wiring guide in the OP is current.

Based on what the Murata engineer told me - the output voltage regulation is guaranteed at the point where Sense connects - I tied the Sense pins directly at the atty connector.

You'll be able to start a new topic when you have a few more posts.

The APTS020A0X43-SRZ - TLynx - by GE seems to be the counterpart to this OKL2 board with similar specs and pinout and wiring configuration and also both are smt.

I've been vaping on and off with my "out of the box"  :laughing: OKL2-T20 setup and it's doing a great job of it - stable and consistent.



Offline zotek

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #66 on: May 13, 2014, 09:45:00 AM »
thank you so much manu for your reply..i just ordered 5 pcs of the chips..hehehe ive been waiting for the NSR020A0X43Z for a while..and im done.lol do you think you can push this chip to 6v?.

and aslo have you tried this chip?  http://in.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GE-Critical-Power/NSR040A0X43Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3RZ%252b%252bVUVDyW2OaruvwtMC5Tg%3d

Offline Claviger

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #67 on: May 13, 2014, 11:04:46 PM »
Great write up. Interesting to see behind the curtain and read all the frustration I am sure went into this for you!

Ordered a complete set to build one mod, this will be my first :P

mamu, you rock!

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Offline memoevapor

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #71 on: May 15, 2014, 07:44:49 PM »


For situations where noise or voltage spikes are involved, I can't recommend highly enough a decent oscilloscope.  T-Equipment.net has a nice Rigol DSO (digital storage scope) for $329.  If that's not do-able, even an old analog scope can cover you there and you can find decent ones on eBay for less than $100.]


Craig, how many channels do you suggest for our modding purposes? I have a very limited modding budget. I've been looking at this DSO HERE, what are your thoughts on this one? :popcorn:
« Last Edit: May 15, 2014, 07:51:24 PM by memoevapor »

Offline memoevapor

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #72 on: May 15, 2014, 08:26:30 PM »
NICE Mod Chenderson1985! :rockin smiley:

Offline memoevapor

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #73 on: May 15, 2014, 08:46:00 PM »

and aslo have you tried this chip?  http://in.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GE-Critical-Power/NSR040A0X43Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3RZ%252b%252bVUVDyW2OaruvwtMC5Tg%3d

That is one powerhouse of a chip according to the Data Sheet DataSheet! 5.0V @ 40Amp = 200Watts. Could do some serious sub ohming there!  freaked_out:

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #74 on: May 16, 2014, 01:56:47 AM »
thank you so much manu for your reply..i just ordered 5 pcs of the chips..hehehe ive been waiting for the NSR020A0X43Z for a while..and im done.lol do you think you can push this chip to 6v?.

and aslo have you tried this chip?  http://in.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GE-Critical-Power/NSR040A0X43Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3RZ%252b%252bVUVDyW2OaruvwtMC5Tg%3d

It would be at your option to push it to 6v.  I usually stay within specs.

I've not tried the 40A module, but I think someone on ECF posted about using it.  I think 20A is way plenty for me.  :laughing:


Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #75 on: May 16, 2014, 02:10:22 AM »
Thank you Mamu for taking the time to make a wiring diagram for this chip. It helps people like me learn a new skill.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bzdfp16y1qdxb58/2014-05-14%2019.46.56.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h7w1weicimmr47/0514140024.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4in9zv57j8m4zb4/0514140033.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxcgxjuk4invznl/2014-05-13%2022.12.45.jpg

Well done and congratz, Chenderson!!

I love the clicky 16mm ss button.  I don't know about the P-FET being mounted on the back of the OKL though, the Drain is connected to the tab plus it's not a good idea to have metal from one part touching metal of another part.  It must not be causing issues if you're vaping with it, but maybe an insulating layer like electrical tape or Kapton tape between the OKL and the the P-FET would be a good idea.

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #76 on: May 16, 2014, 03:28:02 AM »
It would be at your option to push it to 6v.  I usually stay within specs.

I've not tried the 40A module, but I think someone on ECF posted about using it.  I think 20A is way plenty for me.  :laughing:


can you make it mamu?..ill pay.lol
« Last Edit: May 16, 2014, 03:34:30 AM by zotek »

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #77 on: May 16, 2014, 01:44:29 PM »
Craig, how many channels do you suggest for our modding purposes?

Most of the time you only need one channel.  Though the times you need both channels, it's nice to have them.  In some cases you may want to compare signals which is not something you do all that often, probably about the same need as two DMMs which happens sometimes as well.  You can get by with a single channel if the option is nothing, but pretty much all benchtop scopes start at two channels. 

Quote
I have a very limited modding budget. I've been looking at this DSO HERE, what are your thoughts on this one?

I can understand the need to avoid spending several hundred dollars on a proper benchtop scope, but those "use your PC" ones do have some issues.  Generally they're pretty limited on the bandwidth, but that one is 20 MHz which is actually fine for most stuff.  Though sometimes you're concerned with high frequency noise which a 20 MHz scope won't be able to see.  Other than that, the signals you may be interested in are usually well below 20 MHz.

The sample rate is a bit low on that, 48 MSa.  The Rigol scope I linked to is 1 GSa.  That means resolution will be limited so your waveforms may be a bit choppy looking in the display. 

You kind of pay your nickel and take your chances with those PC based scopes.  I would recommend a proper scope, but if it's that or nothing, it's better than nothing.

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #78 on: May 16, 2014, 09:24:02 PM »
Thanks Craig! I appreciate your time, expertise, and most of all patience with a noobe! :thankyou: Just a few months ago I MIGHT have been able to pick a DSO out of a line up of parts, but I would not have been able to tell you what it did....LOL. Thank you VERY much!!

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #79 on: May 17, 2014, 03:26:16 AM »
Mamu! You are wonderful for helping us out. I built my first mod today using this write up. Trying to stuff it all into a 1590g Hammond box is proving to challenging Lol.

A couple questions though. Why are you adding caps to the in/out? The spec sheet says they are not required and when I was test firing mine today it seemed to work fine without them.  Just don't want to leave them out if they are crucial pieces.

Holy Vape @ 5.5 volts on a .45 ohm fogger v4!!!! As fantastic a wicking design the fogger v4 is, it never had a chance at keeping up with 70 watts Lol.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #80 on: May 17, 2014, 01:30:59 PM »
Thanks Craig! I appreciate your time, expertise, and most of all patience with a noobe!  Just a few months ago I MIGHT have been able to pick a DSO out of a line up of parts, but I would not have been able to tell you what it did....LOL. Thank you VERY much!!

Welcome, one comment I wanted to make in that previous post was you can actually do pretty well with a used analog scope.  You can find good ones on eBay under a hundred dollars.  The storage function is nice to have, but it's not actually a critical feature.  Inexpensive DSOs like the Rigol I linked to are a pretty recent thing.  They used to be cost prohibitive for a hobbyist, like several thousand dollars.  I got by on a 100 MHz analog scope for decades of work at home up until a few years ago when inexpensive DSOs became available.

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #81 on: May 17, 2014, 02:32:24 PM »
Mamu! You are wonderful for helping us out. I built my first mod today using this write up. Trying to stuff it all into a 1590g Hammond box is proving to challenging Lol.

A couple questions though. Why are you adding caps to the in/out? The spec sheet says they are not required and when I was test firing mine today it seemed to work fine without them.  Just don't want to leave them out if they are crucial pieces.

Holy Vape @ 5.5 volts on a .45 ohm fogger v4!!!! As fantastic a wicking design the fogger v4 is, it never had a chance at keeping up with 70 watts Lol.

Your first mod is with the OKL2-T20?  That's impressive - congratz!!

Yeah, the converter will work ok without external caps, just like the OKR, so it's at your option to add them or not.

I like to have at least an input cap on these converters to help buffer the shock/stress on the batts and module from frequent and repeated firing.  I think it gives increased stability and longevity to both the batts and the converter.  We fire these converters sometimes up to a hundred times a day each and every day.

I find it interesting that between the Murata converters and the side-by-side comparable GE converters, the GE converters require an input cap while Murata states an input cap is optional.

But even then Murata recommends external caps... p. 4, note #1 from the OKL2-T20 datasheet...

Quote
All models are tested and specified with external 188?F ceramic output capacitors and a 44 ?F external input capacitor. All capacitors are low ESR types. These capacitors are necessary to accommodate our test equipment and may not be required to achieve specified performance in your applications. However, Murata Power Solutions recommends installation of these capacitors.



« Last Edit: May 17, 2014, 02:36:23 PM by mamu »

Offline Claviger

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #82 on: May 17, 2014, 02:39:43 PM »
Thanks for the reply.  Time to go add my input caps :)

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #83 on: May 17, 2014, 02:54:33 PM »
I like to have at least an input cap on these converters to help buffer the shock/stress on the batts and module from frequent and repeated firing.  I think it gives increased stability and longevity to both the batts and the converter.  We fire these converters sometimes up to a hundred times a day each and every day.

I would recommend that as well.  Step-down converters really load the hell out of the input caps.  It's less of a concern for boost converters, they heavily load the output caps.  For a booster I would recommend additional output capacitance, if any at all.

Offline jrweber02

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #84 on: May 17, 2014, 05:37:06 PM »
Got the OKL2-T/20-W12 in yesterday and got it breadboarded this morning. 

So far, so good with testing (i.e., it's doing what it's suppose to  :laughing: ). 

Size comparison with the Naos Raptor 20A 120W board...


Min output voltage (I'm using a 1K ohm POT + 1.43K ohm resister - for a lower min voltage (~3.0v), switch to a 1.5K ohm POT)...


Max output voltage...


Testing the P-FET for reverse polarity... good to go with protection...


Wiring guide...


External parts that I have breadboarded with the OKL (all bought at mouser.com unless otherwise indicated):
20K ohm resistor (CMF5520K000FKEK)

1.43K ohm resistor (RN60D1431FB14)

2x 22uF input caps in parallel (C3225X5R1C226K250AA)

4x 47uF 16v output caps in parallel (GRM32ER61C476ME15L)

1K ohm POT (PT10MH01-102A2020) (use 1.5K ohm POT for min voltage at ~3v)

2x 10A fuses in parallel (RGEF1000)

P-FET (SUP75P03-07-E3)

1S-6S voltage reader (ebay)

3-pos slide switch (1103M2S3CQE2)







Was wondering if a 22k ohm would work instead of a 20k ohm on pins 1 and 2 can someone explain how mamu decided 20k ohm I get that if there isnt a res there then it will auto fire wheather button being hit or not just bot sure how 20k ohm was decided im trying to pic thing up to make my own style build and maybe down the road post it up and share like mamu and breaktru do

Online Breaktru

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #85 on: May 17, 2014, 08:13:07 PM »

can someone explain how mamu decided 20k ohm

That value is given in the datasheet on page 17 Remote On/Off Control (Negative).....

From Datasheet: "The On/Off pin should be pulled high
with an external pull-up resistor (20K ohms)."

Offline jrweber02

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #86 on: May 17, 2014, 08:33:17 PM »
Thank you break must have skipped over that while going thru the sheet but this forman has helped tremendously on my road of modding and I thank everyone in here

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #87 on: May 18, 2014, 12:43:21 AM »
The low voltage detector IC for UVLO is too teeny tiny for me to work with.  I ordered 3 different ones and they are all too tiny I can't even mount them on a stripboard as the pins are too close together, so they require a proper PCB to mount on. 

I'm doing the next best thing then and installing a low voltage indicator with the OKL2-T20.

I'm using the LTC1440 to monitor batt voltage - it has an ultralow 4uA standby current.

I wired it for a 6.2v low voltage indicator.  If the batt's voltage is >6.2v, the red LED does not light.  When the batt's voltage is at or less than 6.2v, the red LED lights telling me it's time to charge the batts.  The red LED has a sharp 6.2v turn on - no tweens and no dimming. 

Here's a link to the datasheet: http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/144012fd.pdf

Here's the schematic...


Here's what it looks like breadboarded... the voltage is set at 6.2V on my DC power supply, the red LED lights...


Here's what it looks like with everything tucked under the IC...


Here's the parts list... you could use 1% resistors if you choose, but I used 5% without issue (maybe I was lucky? :laughing:)...

« Last Edit: May 18, 2014, 12:53:33 AM by mamu »

Offline Claviger

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #88 on: May 18, 2014, 03:01:46 AM »
ERMAHGHERD <3 mamu, fantastic development right there.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #89 on: May 18, 2014, 03:48:14 AM »
Was wondering if a 22k ohm would work instead of a 20k

Yes, it would.  That value is not critical, should be able to range from 10 to 47k without issue, it's only a pull-up or pull-down resistor depending on the regulator part number (postive or negative logic for the control pin).

The low voltage detector IC for UVLO is too teeny tiny for me to work with.  I ordered 3 different ones and they are all too tiny I can't even mount them on a stripboard as the pins are too close together, so they require a proper PCB to mount on. 

Sorry to hear that part didn't work out for you mamu.  You may have to get into making PCBs at some point.  I don't know if you've looked into it, but I'm sure you'll wonder why you didn't try it sooner once you get into it.  The hardest part is getting a clean toner transfer to the copper clad.  After that there's no trick to it.  You can reflow solder your parts onto the board in a frying pan, no problem.

Oh, BTW, if you plan on trying your hand at making PCBs, don't throw away those Elle magazines.  They're made with the best toner tranfer paper I've ever seen, even better than the stuff you buy made for that purpose.  I have a whole stack of those mags I save for making PCBs.


« Last Edit: May 18, 2014, 03:54:47 AM by CraigHB »

Offline zotek

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #90 on: May 18, 2014, 06:42:16 AM »
The low voltage detector IC for UVLO is too teeny tiny for me to work with.  I ordered 3 different ones and they are all too tiny I can't even mount them on a stripboard as the pins are too close together, so they require a proper PCB to mount on. 

I'm doing the next best thing then and installing a low voltage indicator with the OKL2-T20.

I'm using the LTC1440 to monitor batt voltage - it has an ultralow 4uA standby current.

I wired it for a 6.2v low voltage indicator.  If the batt's voltage is >6.2v, the red LED does not light.  When the batt's voltage is at or less than 6.2v, the red LED lights telling me it's time to charge the batts.  The red LED has a sharp 6.2v turn on - no tweens and no dimming. 

Here's a link to the datasheet: http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/144012fd.pdf

Here's the schematic...


Here's what it looks like breadboarded... the voltage is set at 6.2V on my DC power supply, the red LED lights...


Here's what it looks like with everything tucked under the IC...


Here's the parts list... you could use 1% resistors if you choose, but I used 5% without issue (maybe I was lucky? :laughing:)...



never mind.lol..i got it.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2014, 03:56:04 PM by zotek »

Offline Visus

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #91 on: May 18, 2014, 08:39:28 AM »

hi mamu just wondering why do you need this for? if probely stupid question but im to lazy to make calculation right now..so if your battry gets to lower than 6.2 how many volts  left in your battery each?(single bat)

The bully in school would beat you up for this question. lol
I have laid some but whoa that wins an award...  :thumbsup:

Craig stop recommending those lil bitty things, you make it seem like us noobs can do em  :wallbash:  wow if Mamu says their that tiny whoa..
I was gonna try em too phew.. almost check a guys certification almost before recommend lol  im kidding but .......

Awesome Mamu thats an easy peasy there

So it will blink bright when vape sag then pop on constant when fully @6.2v -- kewl
$5.61 parts count your richums  :thumbsup:

Offline mamu

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #92 on: May 18, 2014, 11:15:10 AM »
I know, Craig - I really should learn to do it.  It would be great to have a tiny board and have all smt parts and then just run the wires. 

It's even easier since oshpark.com will make the PCB for you based on your design and the prices they charge aren't bad - just need to upload your design file and there ya go.

lol Visus - I really did try to work with the voltage detector, but with pins 1,2,3 less than a half mm apart, it was too difficult.  And there aren't any in a bigger size at the cutoff volts I need - lol I spent a few hours looking.

And this is how tiny it is... don't drop one, you'll never find it  :laughing:

Offline Jasen

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #93 on: May 18, 2014, 01:02:29 PM »
That's small even before you factor in the picture, for me anyway, is about 2:1

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #94 on: May 18, 2014, 01:34:06 PM »
I know, Craig - I really should learn to do it.  It would be great to have a tiny board and have all smt parts and then just run the wires. 

It's even easier since oshpark.com will make the PCB for you based on your design and the prices they charge aren't bad - just need to upload your design file and there ya go.

lol Visus - I really did try to work with the voltage detector, but with pins 1,2,3 less than a half mm apart, it was too difficult.  And there aren't any in a bigger size at the cutoff volts I need - lol I spent a few hours looking.

And this is how tiny it is... don't drop one, you'll never find it  :laughing:


The LTc sizing  is how I imaged it in my head from doobe's drawing that is uber tiny and to think it cut volts loaded

This is how imagined it should be wired:



Fixed the wiring

Offline CraigHB

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #95 on: May 18, 2014, 03:40:49 PM »
It's even easier since oshpark.com will make the PCB for you based on your design and the prices they charge aren't bad - just need to upload your design file and there ya go.

For sure, Osh Park is like my most valued supplier on the internet.  Just amazing the prices.  PCBs are like throw-aways for me if I want to change something, no biggie to re-order.  So yeah, that makes it even easier if you order out for PCBs.  The only problem is there's about a week lead time for the 2 layer boards, about 2 weeks for the 4 layer boards.  But hey, how much is your time worth.

I do a mix of boards I make myself and ones I order out.  The simple one layer boards that only contain a few components I do myself since I can make those pretty quick and easy, the more complex 2 and 4 layer projects I order out.

The software is not a biggie though there's a bit of a learning curve that can lend to some frustration.  CadSoft offers a limited free version of Eagle that can do anything you need for small 2 layer projects and it's a professional level program; 

http://www.cadsoftusa.com/download-eagle/?language=en

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #96 on: May 18, 2014, 04:40:24 PM »
The LTc sizing  is how I imaged it in my head from doobe's drawing that is uber tiny and to think it cut volts loaded

There's probably 100 transistors on the little chip die for that tiny part.  Since currents are very low normally, they don't need big pathways for currents in there.  I think the limit is about 50mA on the reset pin so that detector could power an LED, but that's about it. 

The intent is only to provide a logic signal to another chip so it doesn't need to put out much power.  The currents required to supply signals like that are generally negligible.  The power consumption on that part is very small, it draws only about 150nA as in billionths of an Amp.  A watch battery could power it for 100 years, of course the battery would expire long before that.

The processes used to make chips are pretty amazing.  Some chips use current pathways only atoms thick.  They've actually hit the physical limit there and a new technology is required to move forward.  Right now, chip dies are as small as they can be and still conduct electricity.  There's all kinds of theories on things like quantum states and optics in further reducing the size, it's all pretty far out there.

Offline deleon209

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #97 on: May 23, 2014, 02:03:48 AM »
@mamu What size box do you use? I got one its Hammond 1591ATCL Translucent Polycarbonate Project Box -- Inches (3.9" x 2" x 0.8") . Got it on amazon. Do you recommend a size? This one seems a little small but this is my first time building a mod period so idk whats a good size. Im familiar with modding as I used to do xbox 360 and install mod chips and such so Im not new to everything exactly

Offline Claviger

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #98 on: May 27, 2014, 01:36:05 PM »
@Deleon209 - Fitting everything into a 4x2x.8 box is tough :P Good luck, I have mine in a box that size, and the 18650s have to be hand wrapped and taped to the contacts, no battery tray will fit.

@mamu - You weren't kidding about how hard this hits. I had to turn voltage down to 3.9 output, where i am used to using fresh VTC 5s on my mechs. Anything over 3.9 v on any of my tanks overwhelms their ability to wick, and I am talking about some great wicking tanks, Taifun GT, Kayfun 3.1, Expromizer etc.  Fantastic mod!

Offline deleon209

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Re: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #99 on: May 27, 2014, 03:20:31 PM »
@claviger
What's a good box and size? Dimensions or link would  be much appreciated. I usually order my boxes from Amazon but if you know a cheaper site in USA with cheap shipping let me know. Thanks

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