Please Help choosing the correct fuse I need for OKR-10

[ghh3rd]

I've started soldering wire to the parts for my OKR-10 mod,.  I don't intend to push it too far... at most I plan on using it at 12W occasionally. 

I decided that I want to add fuses, the thin pancake type resettable, but do not want them to trip if I'm "pushing" the mod as I described.

I want to use two fuses in parallel to reduce resistance.  I have tried to figure out exactly what fuse(s) I want, but all of the variables are confusing.

I have a couple of each of these on hand but don't think they will work...

Mouser #: 650-RGEF1000 Mfr. #: RGEF1000
Desc.: Resettable Fuses - PPTC 16V 100A RADIAL PTC BULK

Mouser #: 650-AGRF1000 Mfr. #: AGRF1000
Desc.: Resettable Fuses - PPTC AGRF1000

Can anyone tell me what fuse (x2) I should order for what I described?  A part number would be golden :-)

Thanks

Randy

[mamu]

At 12W?  You mean 12A, correct?

The RGEF series of fuses from TE and the 16R series of fuses from Littelfuse are recommended - just use 2x 6A fuses - RGEF600 or 16R600.

[ghh3rd]

Mamu - oops - I meant 12A not 12W 

So two of the 6A fuses in parallel will equal 12A but with less resistance than one 12A, right?

If I did reach 12A (for instance running .5 ohm @ 6v), would these fuses trip ... I wonder if I should go a little higher on the fuses ... or if the 2 @ 6A will suffice.  I heard that it can take a day for the fuses to get back to normal once they trip.

Also, it seems like lots of folks are building OKR mods totally with 20 gauge wire.  It seems light to me, but if it works for them I guess it will work for me.

Thanks

Randy

[mamu]

<So two of the 6A fuses in parallel will equal 12A but with less resistance than one 12A, right?>

Correct.

<If I did reach 12A (for instance running .5 ohm @ 6v), would these fuses trip ... I wonder if I should go a little higher on the fuses ... or if the 2 @ 6A will suffice.  I heard that it can take a day for the fuses to get back to normal once they trip.>

6A is the hold current - the guaranteed amount of current that will be allowed to pass without tripping the fuse.  2x 6A fuses would be 12A hold current.  The trip current is around 10A for these fuses.  2x 6A fuses would be 20A trip current.

<Also, it seems like lots of folks are building OKR mods totally with 20 gauge wire.  It seems light to me, but if it works for them I guess it will work for me.>

20g wiring for input/ouput for a 10A board is fine.  Remember, we are pulsing the current for a few secs at a time, not running continuous current, and also have very short wiring runs.  Most modders use 20g for the OKR-T10 and 18g for the Raptor 20A.  No issues with either.

[Visus]

GH

This all depends on how hard you wanna run your OKR;  fuse and wire gauge?  The most efficient wire for an OKR is 14-18ga.  The 20 gauge wire will start adding too many ohms when you want high power vapes.   I made a Ti 8060 mod with 20ga using 14500's it wouldn't fire 30-40w when the batts were at 3.7v..     I made another 8060 with 18ga and all was fine but if I used 14-16ga it would have ran even better..  if you plan on vaping above 30W go with 18ga.
 This is all posted on the forum perhaps buried among threads but ya  wire gauge is uber important up top.. 

 The 6/12A etc.  fuses should have reset timing on their data sheet.

I have read countless arguments of engineers saying two fuses do not double the amps in fuses.  Its 50/50 in that regard if you do a google search you will  find these arguments.  They make some nice 15-20A resetable fuses if thats where you know you want to vape at-- cover your vape wattage ..  The OKR will give up to 100w+ so a nice 15A fuse or 3 6A fuses if thats what u have would be my suggestion.

If your on facebook errybody overdrives their OKR's there was a post yesterday about it and errybody does 6.8v@2s 100W and 7.4v@3s  115w  cept the bigs who make proper spec mods for resale and such..  Personal use blow the brains out the mofo IMO.   

[Visus]

We posted at same time lol

Heya Mamu

<So two of the 6A fuses in parallel will equal 12A but with less resistance than one 12A, right?>

Correct.

<If I did reach 12A (for instance running .5 ohm @ 6v), would these fuses trip ... I wonder if I should go a little higher on the fuses ... or if the 2 @ 6A will suffice.  I heard that it can take a day for the fuses to get back to normal once they trip.>

6A is the hold current - the guaranteed amount of current that will be allowed to pass without tripping the fuse.  2x 6A fuses would be 12A hold current.  The trip current is around 10A for these fuses.  2x 6A fuses would be 20A trip current.

<Also, it seems like lots of folks are building OKR mods totally with 20 gauge wire.  It seems light to me, but if it works for them I guess it will work for me.>

20g wiring for input/ouput for a 10A board is fine.  Remember, we are pulsing the current for a few secs at a time, not running continuous current, and also have very short wiring runs.  Most modders use 20g for the OKR-T10 and 18g for the Raptor 20A.  No issues with either.

[mamu]

lol hey Visus!

I'm not in the camp over over-clocking these converters.  Does NOT make sense.  If you wanna run higher than spec'd for the OKR-T10 - use the Raptor 20A or the OKL-T20.  THAT makes sense.

That being said, if you're going to run higher than maxed spec'd amps, then using lower gauge wiring may be a good idea. 

Running higher than spec'd max voltage may not be an issue in the long run, but running higher than spec'd max amps may cause failure/fried components.  Then you'll be back here telling us you have to re-build the mod and put in a new converter.   

[Visus]

lol hey Visus!

I'm not in the camp over over-clocking these converters.  Does NOT make sense.  If you wanna run higher than spec'd for the OKR-T10 - use the Raptor 20A or the OKL-T20.  THAT makes sense.

That being said, if you're going to run higher than maxed spec'd amps, then using lower gauge wiring may be a good idea. 

Running higher than spec'd max voltage may not be an issue in the long run, but running higher than spec'd max amps may cause failure/fried components.  Then you'll be back here telling us you have to re-build the mod and put in a new converter. 

Sage advice

Mine  its doing fine  (fingers crossed)but ya better bests is the Raptor for play above 60W

[ghh3rd]

Point taken - use the right too for the job!  If this OKR build turns out Ok, I may find myself looking for an OKL2-T20 next 

[ghh3rd]

Forgot to report back... I got the mod built a week? ago in a 1590B box that I powder coated red.  Not a great paint job... first coat came our real nice, then second coat had some flaws, but it was my first attempt to powder coat. 

I soldered everything to the chip (close quarters!), and tested before I installed, and it worked :-) and installed everything.  It's working great!  I bought a Freemax Starre tank, and am using a .5 coil, and am enjoying nice flavorful clouds :-)   I like that tank! and it was only just over $20 including shipping from FastTech. 

Mamu - I'm not running this past 5 volts -- don't need to! 

I picked up a OKR T-10 breakout board that pre-assembled with an OKR10, PFET, Fuses, Capacitors, Resisters and Diode... only $25 - now to get a 1590G box to put this in for an even more compact mod.

Thanks for all of the replies...

Randy

[mamu]

Congratz on getting er done!

Did you get the OKR-T10 breakout board at FDV?  I beta tested the prototype - sweet that those externals are onboard - makes it easy peasy to do a build.

[ghh3rd]

I ordered the board from Iron Lung... I'll have to see what FDV has too.

 I really like this mod - I can set it from Mild to Wild :-)