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Okay, I'm going nuts trying to figure out something basic. How do you guys center the hole for the 510 connector. I've already gone through 3 endcaps trying to get the damn thing centtered. Also, are you using a torch to solder the spring and battery connector to the copper?
Invest in a good center drill bit and a center punch as well as a center finding jig. I think this is what Breaktru meant
Thanx so much. Do you use a hand drill? Also, I am thinking about using a touch switch as described in http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/133774-how-can-you-even-use-smallest-switch.html . One of the people who replied said for a flashlight mod (which this is very similar to) to reverse the battery. Is that true, and if so, would it change the wiring diagram? Oh, by the way, I'm Phesrr, I messed up my log in name and just now got around to fixing it.
Thanx everyone. I kinda had the idea, but I'm a visual learner, so the vid was awesome. Hopefully, my MOSFET comes in this week. I'm building the touch circuit, any tips on that?
I just finished my Copper PV Mod using your above information and I am so proud of myself for building this great PV. It only cost me a few bucks for parts and materials.
Okay, I want to make sure my reasoning is sound. I have a 3103 mosfet coming, which I believe is N-Channel. If I run v-out to the center post, and v-in to the negative on the battery, the thing will still fire, since the Atty doesn't care which direction the current flows, right? Or should I just get a p-chan mosfet?
So, I finished my first copper mod. Here's a pic of it between my first mod (a flashlight), and my MadVapes type 5v mod. I used a cut off nail to actuate a lever switch inside the middle section, but it was mostly based on Breaktru's design. THanx for all the help, guys! Now I just have to wait for my mosfets to build the touch switch version.
I used a cut off nail to actuate a lever switch inside the middle section
Have a question to ask. As most of you know, my favorite mini just died. Well, I wanted to use the tube again but really can't because of the dimple used with the punch to keep the ring from moving. So I started to think of other ways to keep the ring from moving. My first thought was to use a small brass screw and countersink it so it would be flat with the outside tube. I'm thinking, that way I could take it apart if needed and if nothing else, save the tube for reuse.So the question is: Does anyone have a better idea than using a couple of brass screws?thanks.
Why not try solder?
Why not re-wire the mod and use it as is?The punch dimple was meant to prevent the ring from sliding up. The dimples should be above the ring so you can remove it by tapping it out from top of tube thru to the bottom.The counter sunk holes for small flat head machine screws sound good. If you go that route, you won't need the ring. Drill into the plastic of the door-wheel instead of the ring and use a small tap on the plastic.
Thanks kd0afk, But I really don't know what you're talking about. Are you talking about soldering the top of the ring after the wire have been put through it?
Maybe I didn't under your situation. A photo of the thing might help.
I've just come up with a thought. I use a rather large ring for the mod. It's a little more than 1/2 inch. I also have a problem where the wheel gets sideways and doesn't make good contact sometimes. Next time, I'm going to use 2 small rings. One above the wheel and one below. This will fix the issue of the wheel getting sideways.Don't know if this is one of those "dummy" things for me, but I believe it will work good.
The punch marks are located on opposite sides of the tube (180 degrees) so it should not move if the ring is cut to fit correctly.1/2" wide is way to big. I got the ring width down to 3/16". The first one was 1/4" wide.Putting a ring below the wheel will probably hit the battery.
Thanks for the info. I didn't know that the rings you use were so small. I'll try that next time. Have you ever had any issues with the wheel getting cocked to one side? I'm always having to fiddle with mine to make sure it's flush.edit: I don't make my wire short from the button lead to the wheel. I've been too worried about pulling the solder joint off.
Good phestr, I used the same method w/ my side x side mod. I also filed down the screw head and nut to make it even thinner in height.I use two. One for Pos and one for Neg.
Yep, filed the screw head flat and the nut on the other side too. I'm still using a spring on the negative. I'm building another for my friend, as soon as it's put together (I'm taking pics as I go), I'll post step by step, including my improved button.Speaking of the side x side...any chance of a board schematic and wiring guide? I think I have it figured, but if you have the time...
Question for you guys, I am very new to the electric world, i have basically done exactly the same as breakthru's OP, I am trying to figure out if my switch will be sufficent or not, Running 1-18650 battery thru it like yours this is the switch i am going to use - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508 will this be ok? I also was thinking about - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062545&locale=en_US - either one should be fine correct?
Nice mod Cavediver! Love the end caps. I wanted to use those too, but could only find 1 at the hardware store. I also like using the couplers. They add a nice bit of weight... just right.Thanks for sharing