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I hope the module is not blown. Had a few like that.
.. how do you check if the module is working again, without soldering?
Ya gotta solder something. With no caps, no resistors and no load you should get 5v out
did that with 2 modules, one that I used and one unused, I got 3v only... that's a bad batch, huh?
They are differently bad
since they're not thouroughly busted.. just wont give the correct output
So you are putting a Li-ion battery (+) to pin 2 and batt (-) to pin 1 and measuring Pin 4 to Pin 1, 3v ?Or are you using a pwr supply voltage in?
I did use a 14500 as my power input, same way as you described, and I got a 3v output... haven't tried it with a brand new batt, though.. i'll try it once I get a new set
You know what? Let's then not jump to the conclusion that the module is bad. Maybe it is the battery.What make battery and how old is it?
anyone know where to get an automatic switchi want to work on a .44 automatic ooohhhh that would be sweat specially a buck boosted auto where you switch the ground so you will only have a 3.7v circuit on the switch (considered cannibalization of a 510 auto to do it but if i can find the switch else ware....... great)
What boxes you are using breaktru?
Just finished my booster clonethanks breaktru for the plans
Yay! Got the parts to make it, getting ready to solder.Quick question -- can I use electrolytic capacitors? I have a vague memory of them behaving differently from non-electrolytic ones.Thank you for any information!
Just put together another .44 mini booster.This time with a touch switch and a voltage range that can handle Low resistance Dual Coil cartos.I really like this mod and hate to part with it but I maybe selling it so I can buy more parts to make more mods.I already have many offers for it but have to devise a fare way to pick a suitor. Some one who can take it for walks daily, groom it regularly and give it love and affection.... UPDATE: not letting this one go. I'm keeping it.Circuit below w/ N-Ch and P-Ch Mosfet only visible to logged on members.........
Yay!Done with my mod. Unfortunately, due to the design, all the electronics had to be isolated with electric tape and (oh no!) JB Steelstik. I kept testing it with just a built-in voltmeter, without carto.Now that the glue dried, it works a bit strangely. Without load, voltage ranges from 3.78 to 6.3. Great, considering that all I need is between 3.8 and 5. Sometimes, out of nowhere, it decides to spike to 14.7 volt I dug the connector between 4.7k resistor and the pot, and the 14.7v madness stopped.Then I tested it with load. The highest resistance carto I have is a 2.4 Ohm. I set it to 4v without load, connected carto and tried. Voltmeter shows 3.4v but vapor feels pretty good. Definitely doesn't feel like 3.4v. Cranked it up to 4v under load, now it feels too hot, almost burny.So, any guesses as to what in the world did I do wrong? The voltmeter is the little display from Madvapes, connected parallel to the carto.Thank you, and pictures are coming
I cant believe no one has asked this. Whats the music in the video?
@Breaktruim building one this week. i tried building one on a breadboard. since i don't have low ESR caps as of this time. i will be using the cheap ones for now. My question is now that the voltage drop is so intense. any recommendations? thanks
i getting through the posts made by other members what would be the best? i removed the resistors. i was thinking to get the pots or trimmers from bourns. i used the cheapy one just for prototyping.i really love you work. i appreciate it
Electrolytes are the ONLY caps that you should be using on the 04050c.There are two types: Aluminum and Tantalum.The first several boost mods where made with Tantalum (more expensive) but have switch to Aluminum. Don't use cheap ebay specials. You want to use LOW ESR rated if possible.Page 10 of the Datasheet shows recommended Caps or do searching of your own for low ESR 100uF caps.http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ptn04050c.pdf
Breakthru, I want to give this mod a try. About the caps, I read or tried to read the datasheet but got confused on what value is considered low ESR. I also remeber seeing something about using 1% resistors. As confusing as the above is my eyes glaze and mind fogs when trying to pick parts out from digikey catalog. Do you have a BOM for someone that wants to build it exactly as you would suggest? I dont want meters or gadgets, just the basics with trim pot. Here is the board that I have http://www.ebay.com/itm/230895284358?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649BTW my flash welder is working pretty good but still waiting on the enclosure to make it pretty.
Thanks for that link. I am still having problems with the resistors and trim pot. When I search the resistors, it narrows down to 1 resistor that looks nothing like what I know( 2 wires sticking out of a peice of ceramic? with colored bands on them) It resembles more like a IC chip. I looked through the post looking for a pic of the resistors but found none. The trim pot search left me with thousands of results because I dont know what the important values to search for are. I can follow directions and simple wire diagrams but no almost nothing about the parts themselves to choose the correct ones. Please a little more help.
Anyone can propose a good sized box for using 18490?Right now I have a box for 14500 and I'm eager to test it, even for a proof of concept, until I find some better box...here without the MOSFET switch part. For the test box I'll use just a big switch. For the bigger box I'll go probably for the MOSFET - and then maybe something more? That's a hell of a great module, thanks for your finding
Have you used those mufti-turn trimmer pots before?
Yes, I have it in my LM2596 down-step installation.