0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Hello friends.I have also order that dna12 circuit and I am waiting to arrive from America to Greece.I didn't understand so well from the above post. Does this circuit working good or not finally? It is expensive the truth is, but what do you think about variable voltage vs variable wattage function?Which one has best results in vaping and why?

My thoughts are..... the dna is just a gimmic. What difference does it make if it's measured in volts or watts. In the end it all equals sizzle in my aty.

Not actually.The difference is Ohms law Just kitting but its true.Advantage is friendly and lazy vaping - just find your wattage and stop hesitate bout voltage, amperage, ohms of atty and so on.Put your preferential 8-10-12W and vape. Change carto and vape again on your sweet point. Not to remember anything else except your lovely wattage.

Good afternoon from Greece my friends Well,i have made the circuit using 100k and 4,7 k resistors but,without the atomizer ,(1,5 ohm) the voltage is 6 volt.With the atomizer on the voltage is 4,4 volt.Does anyone knows what i have do wrong? the battery is a black imr.

Good afternoon from Greece my friends Well,i have made the circuit using 100k and 4,7 k resistors but,without the atomizer ,(1,5 ohm) the voltage is 6 volt.With the atomizer on the voltage is 4,4 volt.Does anyone knows what i have do wrong? the battery is a black imr.The good news is that there is no zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz anymore and the battery is not getting warmer.

Please someone chime in if I am wrong, it sounds to me like you used a fixed resistor on the 100k when in fact it needs to be a trimmer or potentiometer these are resistors but adjustable. With a fixed resistor you will get the top end voltage which is why you are at 6 volts.

I understand that with the resistor between pins 3 and 4 u can adjust how much you can go below 5 volts on output. However I do not understand how/why it works this way. There is no mention of voltage divider resistance on the datasheet of this chip. Can anyone explain me how the chip reacts to resistance between pins 3 and 4?Edit: and how do you calculate the range min and max voltages you can achieve with certain voltage divider resistor?

You're not going to find this in the datasheet because the module was not designed to operate like this.The voltage divider resistor will allow the MIN output voltage to be lower than 5v and lower the MAX voltage. It effects the entire voltage output range.The Adjust pin to ground will give you the range. The higher the total resistance, the lower the voltage.The 100k pot is perfect for achieving the lower voltage range with it max'ed out.With the pot zero'ed, the fixed resistor in series will determine the high end of the voltage range.Most likely the efficiency rating is lower w/ the voltage divider in place on Pins 3 and 4.But........ using a single 14500, 900mah trustfire, I was able to get up to 7 1/2 hours of vape time.

Did you come by this accidentally or by calculations? If by calculations I would like to know how to calculate to min and max volts if I were to change resistor values.The voltage range which your schema gives is just perfect, but I want to understand the theory behind it.

Actually Nuck was the first to use a 100K resistor on 3 and 4 which I saw about 2yrs ago. So credit goes to him for his Fistpack.I don't have a formula, just trial runs. I'm sure a formula can be devised if you have the patience.

Think I'm gonna try fitting this circuit into a pipe mod (Smoking pipe style, not copper, lol)

hello everybody I am italian and I have been brought here because this forum is leggendary for its users' great ideas!and obviously from breaktru that invited me to post on here any questions.I have one, as I am willing to use a ptc fuse (thermistore) 2.5A to prevent circuit from frying when used over 12W, could anyone explain me theoric or practical functioning or any way to install it?I understand the ptc starts increasing its resistance at a certain I (current in Ampere), so I guess it has to interrupt Vin from source (battery) to the module, or?kind regards to all of you

hello everybody I am italian

I am willing to use a ptc fuse (thermistore) 2.5A to prevent circuit from frying when used over 12W

could anyone explain me theoric or practical functioning or any way to install it?

nice to meet you why you say 2.5A is too low?

How to choose an appropriate fuse for the converter you're working with:A. The first step in choosing a fuse is to read the converter's datasheet and find the max input current. Choose a fuse with a hold current close to or equal to the converter's max input current. If you don't know the max input current or it's not stated in the datasheet, Craig taught us a nifty equation to calculate that max input current: converter's max output power at 80% efficiency divided by min input voltage.For example, the max output power for the DNA30 is 30W. At 80% efficiency that's a total of 36W. Min input voltage for the DNA30 is 3.2v. Using Craig's equation: 36W / 3.2v = 11.25A. The datasheet for the DNA30 states max input current is 12A - which is pretty close to the result of Craig's equation. For the DNA30 then a 12A fuse would be appropriate.You can choose a hold current slightly under or slightly over the max input current of the converter if you can't find a fuse that is equal to the max current and still have good protection as there is a current cushion between hold current and trip current. What is important is that you don't want to choose a hold current that is too low else you'll get annoying inadvertent tripping when running the converter at or near max output or from normal operating internal heat (plus each time a fuse trips, the resistance takes days to return to the initial state). For the most part, we are using fuses to protect us and the circuit from a batt fault or reverse polarity. Either of those situations will cause a huge current dump from the batt, so no matter if the hold current is a bit high the fuse will trip rather fast.

i am using one battery only, so, if I got it right, I would only need one PTC, right?

C. Next, look at the Rmin rating of the fuse. The lower the resistance the least effect the fuse will have on the circuit - 10mOhms of resistance at 10A wastes 1W and causes an input voltage drop of 0.1v. So... to have the least effect with adding unwanted resistance to the circuit, we parallel fuses. Wiring 2x fuses in parallel cuts the fuse's internal resistance in half, BUT it also doubles the hold current and trip current. If you are going to use 2 fuses in parallel, you must then look for a fuse with a hold current half the max current of the converter. For example - if the converter's max current is 10A, you will need to choose a fuse with a 5A hold current (2x 5A = 10A).

btw did you find a good place for ptc and amps in italy or in eu? (I am talking about e-commerce shop)

nice to meet you why you say 2.5A is too low?i am using one battery only, so, if I got it right, I would only need one PTC, right?btw did you find a good place for ptc and amps in italy or in eu? (I am talking about e-commerce shop)

Added 0603 led switched on the fire button to that little hole on the bottom on my AA break4050 sealed it in with a piece of opaque silicon and clear epoxy lenses looks great.Woot soldering 0603 things lolFits perfect in the holeAdded one to the evercool mod toowithout the lenses its hella bright

Woot soldering 0603 things lol