gfxgfx
 
Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
logo
 
gfx gfx
gfx
19851 Posts in 1275 Topics by 5182 Members - Latest Member: charbuild April 17, 2024, 11:01:44 PM
*
gfx* Home | Help | Search | Login | Register | gfx
gfx
Breaktru Forum  |  eCigarette Forum  |  Modding  |  Topic: Soldering Tutorial Part 1-3
gfx
gfxgfx
 

Author Topic: Soldering Tutorial Part 1-3  (Read 5322 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Online Breaktru

  • Administrator
  • PV Master
  • *****
  • Joined: Nov 2008
  • Location: NY
  • Posts: 3343
  • Karma: +792/-4
  • Gender: Male
  • PLEASE participate in this forum
« Last Edit: November 16, 2018, 04:41:58 PM by Breaktru »

Offline CraigHB

  • PV Master
  • *******
  • Joined: Nov 2011
  • Location: Reno, Nevada
  • Posts: 2023
  • Karma: +246/-1
  • Gender: Male
Re: Soldering Tutorial Part 1-3
« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2011, 09:33:47 PM »
That EEVBlog guy does some great videos.  I've watched a bunch of them.  I'd like to see them all, but there's hundreds of them.  Interestingly, I've hand soldered that very Microchip PIC he's showing in part 3 for a project I did a few years ago.  If you can do one of those .5mm TQFP packages, you can hand solder anything.

He strongly suggests using a small chisel tip saying the conical tips don't work well.  I've been using conical tips as long as I've been soldering.  I use a .015" tip currently.  That would be the ETS tip for the Weller WES51 and WESD51.  He comments that it's hard to transfer heat with those, but I don't find that to be the case.  It's true that you can't transfer heat well with only the tip in contact, but I typically go to the side of the tip when I need more contact area.

The problem with a chisel tip is there are lots of times where I just don't have room for one  (which he does bring up).  The only way you can do chips in a DFN package is with a conical tip.  Those have no leads and only a small contact area on the pads.  They're actually meant to be soldered using reflow, but they're do-able by hand.

He recommends temperatures 650-700F, but I tend to run 580-600F with the 63/37 solder which he said himself he hasn't used.  If he had used it,  he probably would have recommended it over 60/40 which he didn't.  When 63/37 cools, it turns solid quickly and is much easier to work with.  The 60/40 takes longer to solidify which you don't want, especially for SMD stuff.

I use a lot of the same tools he does.  The desoldering braid is a necessity in various widths.  I also use a stereo microscope similar to his.  Mine has a 10x and 30x setting.  I use the 30x for inspection on occasion and solder at the 10x setting. 

He asserts a strong point about using fine wire solder.  He's right about that, but he uses .020".  I use .015" which I think is better than the .020".

One thing I haven't tried (aside from reflow) is drag soldering for ICs with higher pin counts.  You do that with the round tip that has a well.  It looks like it works really well from watching various videos of it.  Don't know where to get the drag tips for my station though.
« Last Edit: December 18, 2011, 11:12:29 PM by CraigHB »

Offline gknowes

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Nov 2011
  • Posts: 32
  • Karma: +11/-0
Re: Soldering Tutorial Part 1-3
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2012, 08:06:44 AM »
thanks breaktru. a lot of info. i needed to know, great site , he's wright plug in irons suck! :thankyou: :thumbsup:

Breaktru Forum  |  eCigarette Forum  |  Modding  |  Topic: Soldering Tutorial Part 1-3
 

gfxgfx
gfx gfx
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!