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There has always been rumors that the Brother laser printers don't work well for toner transfer due to the type of toner they use.I bought my Samsung ML-2525W wireless printer a few weeks ago for $99 with free shipping. It's a great printer, my transfers turn out absolutely perfect. You can pic up the wired version (ML-2525) for around $70
thank you it is something i want to try i have succes with everything else i have just mixed my own liquid 24mg cut down from 75mg which was the highest we could get into england i have been looking a circuitary software i`m unsure if i`ll be able to pick that up though but if i can learn it from other people then it`s something that i wouldn`t mind doing, i have just managed to get the same laminator that you used £5.50 off e-bay i`m hoping that it works ok but i`ll be modifying it anyway so i`m not too worried,cheers jimmy
been looking at some printers one is cpl325 which is colour and the other is ml 2168 both are samsung i like the cpl325 would it work with pcb printing :help:cheers jester
i got some smd caps and resistors i looking forward to making something jester
By the way: which one you prefer: Eagle or ExpressPCB? I'm on Eagle for years, but you know it's a PITA sometimes... How it looks, when compared to ExpressPCB?
I found a Xerox Phaser 6100 Color Laser printer on CraigsList for $40... what a fucking deal!I got it specifically for doing PCB toner transfers. I will clean the PCB with a scotch brite green scrubber and pure ethanol. Print the PCB design to regular paper. Before doing the transfer I place a piece of paper on the board and preheat it with my iron then place the design down on the already warm copper and apply pressure with the iron. The transfers come out very clean for me. Then use Ferric Chloride and a sponge to remove the copper.
If it comes down to carving traces out of a sheet that thick, just use a wire. No reason to make it that complicated. A 24 gauge copper wire is equal to a 5mm trace on 1 oz copper in terms of cross sectional area which is what determines resistance and thereby the ability of a conductor to handle current.What you can do for heavy bus lines on a PCB is lay down a trace (without solder mask) then solder a bare solid wire on top of it. However, this should not be necessary for the currents you would see with something like an OKR-T/10. You can etch 2 oz copper yourself and use a copper fill to carry those currents. It's how it's handled normally.I've used this calculator before; http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/2006/01/24/trace-resistance-calculatorNormally a calculator does not recommend a trace width since there's a number of variables depending on design requirements. The one above provides resistance and heating data to make your own determination. Personally, I try to use a convention of 1mm per amp for 1 oz copper, half that for 2 oz copper. You can go lower if you can accept higher losses and more heating. You can go higher if you want to reduce losses and heating.When you find the resistance value for your trace, use I squared R to determine the resulting loss at a given current. The calculator will give you heating data. Then you can decide for yourself if you need to go wider or you can accept something narrower.
DO you have any pictures?
i was going to make the output tracks of a pcb for a ptr08100 about 2mm wide then lay 20awg over the track that should be able to handle 10amps.