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Breaktru Forum  |  eCigarette Forum  |  Modding  |  Topic: My Puck.
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Author Topic: My Puck.  (Read 40267 times)

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Offline phoenix

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My Puck.
« on: September 12, 2013, 10:30:37 PM »
This is my first mod, and my first ecig all at once.

After I dropped it and did an Alabama chrome job because the tabs broke.


Its simple and it works. I am looking into making a new one. I have some red oak. I want to stick with the aa ni/mh batteries. At least for now. They're cheap and readily available and if I get caught out and mine die if I absolutely have to I can buy more that are precharged. So sticking with 4aa could someone point me to some components that would allow me to create a vv/vw mod that is isn't terribly difficult to build and isn't costly? im afraid that with a working mod that I cannot justify theexpense to my wife.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2013, 12:04:16 AM »
That's awesome you started vaping with your own mod.  That's jumping right into it, gotta hand it to you on that one.

The NiMH batteries are great because they are the safest batteries there are.  However, the down side with them is they are not nearly as efficient as Li-Ion batteries (they don't deliver power as well).  Also, they only provide 1.2 Volts per cell so you need multiple cells in series.

With an e-cig, you want to use a "DC-DC converter" to regulate output voltage.  This is a switching type of regulator that wastes a lot less power than a linear (standard) regulator.  It also runs a lot cooler.  You can use a lower supply voltage with a boost converter to increase output voltage or use a higher supply voltage with a buck converter to decrease output voltage.

You probably would not be able to use a booster with a NiMH pack because boosters are sensitive to power supply impedance.  NiMH batteries have a lot of impedance, about 100 mOhms per cell which is not that much more than a Li-Ion, however you need three cells in series to get an equivalent voltage.  Combined impedance for the pack is much greater than that of a single high drain 18650.  A booster capable of powering an atomizer would probably not function correctly with a NiMH battery pack.

You would need to use a buck converter which can handle the higher supply impedance.  However, those have something called "drop-out" which means you need about 1.5 Volts higher than the highest voltage you want to regulate  If that's 6 Volts, you need a supply of 7.5 Volts.  Minimum charge for a NiMH cell is 1.1 Volts so you would need 7 cells in series.  Might be able to get away with 6 if the regulator has low drop out.  Either way, that's going to be a brick of a mod.

Because of the higher impedance and lower voltage per cell, NiMH cells are not often used for e-cig mods.  Though the one configuration where they do pretty well is the one you're using.  That is, powering a standard resistance atomizer without a regulator.  Still, you get a lot of voltage sag due to the higher supply impedance.  It's about 400mV per Amp with a pack of four cells.  For an 18650 with a 10 Amp drain limit, it's only about 50mV per Amp.

Offline jumper

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2013, 04:10:31 PM »
Hi Phoenix, Great mod. You're really doing good early on. Craig has a wealth of information and is a good person to listen to. He knows his stuff :)

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2013, 05:33:34 PM »
Good job on your first mod and congrats on becoming a vaper!

A simple and cheap way to build a decent mod could be to get a pre-made Vamo board and put it into an enclosure of some sort.  The Vamo PCB has a display, up/down buttons, and fire button and is pretty simple to work with.  I just built a quick tin mod with one and the nice thing is it's variable voltage or variable wattage, whichever you prefer. If you search "Vamo PCB" you should see a few places selling them for around 20 bucks.

Good luck!


The Goat :)


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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2013, 06:55:02 PM »
Congrats phoenix on your first mod/first vape  :beer-toast:

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2013, 11:49:06 PM »
thanks for the warm welcome. perhaps that's what im missing with mine is voltage really. perhaps ill look into the vamo pcb. is it relatively straight forward to hook up? im not the greatest at reading schematics. im getting into diy liquis which is what brought me here. the calculator. then I joined for the modding advice. as I said in another thread Im considering opening a vape shop and may sell some custom mods.

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2013, 01:13:24 AM »
The vamo board is pretty basic to wire.  They should come with a small bit of white and black wire already attached.  I made up this crude drawing for a sort of diagram.

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2013, 04:14:24 PM »
well that looks easy enough. so its vv and vw? assuming im not looking to go super high volt or watt what is the average time between charges? right now im getting 4-5 days with the 2400mah aa and 3-4 with the 1300mah. my wife is getting 2-3 with the 800mah aaa. also looking for a better connector. I seem to have stripped the one I got from madvapes.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2013, 01:38:45 PM »
NiMH batteries are less efficient so you're only utilizing about 70% of the rated capacity (run time) depending on atomizer resistance.  More for higher resistance and less for lower resistance.  The 2400mAh of that NiMH pack would be similar to 2000mAh with an IMR type Li-Ion battery as shown in the photo.  You can also use a high drain Panasonic cell (NCR18650PD).  Those have good power delivery (high drain) and much higher capacity at 2900mAh; link

All of the connectors you find over the counter are made of brass which is good in that brass is a very good electrical conductor and solders easily.  Of course, the down side is that brass screw threads are relatively soft and wear out quickly.  Stainless threads are pretty much indestructible, but stainless is not solderable.  A stainless connector requires a nut to allow a lug connection or a brass nut for a solder connection.  I have not seen anything like that available over the counter.   I had some custom made by a machine shop and it was expensive.

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2013, 03:15:14 PM »
Yeah, the Vamo board is vv and vw, you can switch between modes as you like.

I think as you get into vaping and modding you'll find that you are going to want the better output of a Li-Ion or even a Li-poly cell.  As Craig says the Li-Ion are much more efficient and they maintain their voltage over a flatter curve (higher voltage for longer)

I"m not saying you have to go Li-Ion, but just be aware of the option and it's benefits for future mods.

What type(s) of devices are you using on your puck? cartomizers, clearomizers? Do you know the resistance of them?  How many batteries do you use in your puck and what is the output voltage?

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2013, 05:06:33 PM »
I haven't measured the voltage. just assumed it would be 4.8 since im using 4. I try for 3 ohm coils on my aga t+. im looking into li-ion batteries. I like the idea of the li poly batts but I don't have the soldering skill for that. 

im learning and just from my browsing of this forum that li ion is the way to go. using the vamo board how many batteries do I need? i would need my battery/batteries before designing my wood box.

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2013, 07:24:40 PM »
I use a single 18650 (2000mah average) in the Vamo mod. (well all my mods actually)  I get a full days vape time from it at 8 to 9 watts using carto tanks with Boge 2.0 to 2.3 ohm cartos vaping between 4 and 6 mls of juice.

This forum is the best place I've found for modding info and advice.  There are so many ideas, examples and knowledgeable folks here it's like a gold mine :)

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2013, 05:43:12 PM »
I haven't measured the voltage. just assumed it would be 4.8 since im using 4. I try for 3 ohm coils on my aga t+. im looking into li-ion batteries.

You can get an inline voltmter like this to gauge the performance of your battery device.  It measures voltage at the atomizer under power, that's the true indicator.  You might be surprised to find your NiMH pack is probably delivering not much more than 4 Volts to the atomizer depending on the state of charge and resistance of the atomizer.

BTW, NiMH batteries actually have a flatter discharge curve than a Li-Ion battery.  It's rather difficult to gauge the state of charge by voltage like you can with a Li-Ion.  More advanced fuel guages for NiMH batteries actually summate current flow to gauge the state of charge.

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2013, 09:50:36 PM »
English bro. sorry I don't speak electro techie. I can solder and read the simple diagram kortt posted and that's about all. beyond that its Greek. i understand what your saying though. if i want vv/vw use li ion batteries they re better for the purpose of mods. gotcha.

does the vamo board tell you atty/carto Resistance like the dna20?

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2013, 09:54:37 PM »
oh i totally scored some free stainless steel cable from an electrical contractor at work. theyre remodeling the building and expanding it. they were scrap pieces from hanging fluorescent lights but its about 3-4 feet of 1/8" cable.

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2013, 10:27:03 PM »
I didn't realize NMH batts had a flatter discharge curve than Li-Ion, thanks for that Craig.  I guess the difference is the discharge rate?

The Vamo board does show atomizer resistance.  Holding the Up button shows attached device resistance.  Holding the Down button shows remaining battery voltage.  Holding both Up and Down together switches between variable voltage and variable wattage.

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2013, 11:32:06 PM »
well then the vamo pcb is for me then. just have to locate a source that has them in stock. should be a rather easy mod. anyone had luck with the vamo ss cap? not sure whether the connector itself is stainless though. seems to be as it has a screw on the bottom side.
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/vamo-top-cap its either use this or invest in many extenders. that way im not stripping out the threads on the actual connector. i want this mod to be lasting and hopefully the only one i need build for a while longer. my wifes already complaining. perhaps i should just buy a vamo. would possibly be cheaper.

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2013, 11:56:11 PM »
I guess it depends on what you want at the end of the day.  If you want something you crafted yourself then by all means try the vamo pcb.  Another good option is the DNA12 board from Evolv although it's a bit more involved as far as wiring.  Lot's of good info on the DNA modules on this forum.  There are lots of options for a range of skill levels, just make sure you do lots of research on battery safety.

If at the end of the day all you need is a device to vape on and don't care if you make it, then try a Vamo or one of the many many VV or VW devices.  The Vamo is cheap and not the most durable device from what I've seen and heard but I think it's a good starter/intermediate PV.

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #18 on: September 17, 2013, 12:07:03 AM »
i simply want reliable. id prefer to build it myself of course. if the vamo pcb with last long enough for the dna20 to get to a comparable price then that will work also. i already have some red oak for making the enclosure. along with a few goodies to  dress it up.

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #19 on: September 17, 2013, 12:43:40 AM »
to be honest, I don't think the DNA20 modules will come down in price, unless you find a reseller having a sale, which might be possible.

I chose the Vamo because it was cheap and I just wanted to try it.  If you make the decision based on the quality and features of the module I'd personally go with the DNA20.  Evolv's products are top notch.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #20 on: September 17, 2013, 03:28:42 AM »
I didn't realize NMH batts had a flatter discharge curve than Li-Ion, thanks for that Craig.  I guess the difference is the discharge rate?

There's actually not a huge difference in energy density with respect to volume for NiMH versus Li-Ion.  A pack of three AA NiMH batteries has similar energy capacity to an ICR 18650.  There's about 50% more volume for the NiMH pack.  For a very high drain 18650 with lower charge capacity, energy density by volume is pretty close to the same. 

The big difference between Li-Ion and NiMH comes down to efficiency.  Li-Ion batteries have less voltage sag under load so more power is delivered to the load and less wasted in the battery.  For a very high drain 18650, the difference is huge, like 15 times less power loss.  It's about 6 times less for a high capacity 18650.

Li-Ions have strict drain limits because of safety issues.  If they get too hot, they can ignite.  NiMH cells do not burn so there's no safety concern with overheating, though it still damages them.  When you design a device to use them, you still have to consider heating issues when loading them heavily.

The main issue with NiMH is that if you load the cells too heavily, you get to a point where more power is lost in the cells than delivered to the load.  In design, you would draw the line around 20% loss.  Once you get past that, you have to a move to a more efficient battery type or a bigger battery.  Bigger batteries have lower internal resistance allowing them to deliver higher currents with less power loss. 

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #21 on: September 17, 2013, 09:52:53 PM »
Wow. Ever feel like your head would pop from information overload? Im learning a lot on this site.
Few questions though.

1. Craig would stacking or running in parallel small mah rated batteries and running them at lower watts/volts increase the time? That is would 2 900mah 14500 li ion batteries stacked or in series be like a single 1800mah battery?

2. Would the ni/mh charger work for a li/ion battery of the same size? If not could it be easily modified to work?

3. Why do some of the links take me to polish sites?
« Last Edit: September 17, 2013, 10:08:07 PM by phoenix »

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #22 on: September 17, 2013, 10:37:55 PM »
I can answer #2.  Never charge a Li-ion battery in anything other than a Li-ion charger.  Li-Ion batteries can be very dangerous if charged improperly.

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #23 on: September 17, 2013, 11:03:57 PM »
OK, so are all li-ion chargers created equal?

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #24 on: September 17, 2013, 11:59:28 PM »
Well, It's like anything else, you get what you pay for.  My first Li-Ion charger was a cheapo Trustfire and it overcharged my batteries so i trashed it.  with a 3.7 volt Li-Ion battery the top charged voltage should not be over 4.2 volts as a good rule of thumb.  I have an Xtar charger now that charges my batteries to about 4.18 consistently give or take .01 volts so I breathe a bit easier using it.  It's a good idea to use a fireproof charging bag when charging Li-on or Li-poly cells as well AND have a volt meter to keep an eye on your batteries voltage during and after charge.

If charged properly and treated with respect where safety is concerned you shouldn't have any problem.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #25 on: September 18, 2013, 03:43:04 AM »
1. Craig would stacking or running in parallel small mah rated batteries and running them at lower watts/volts increase the time? That is would 2 900mah 14500 li ion batteries stacked or in series be like a single 1800mah battery?

2. Would the ni/mh charger work for a li/ion battery of the same size? If not could it be easily modified to work?

The question of charge capacity you ask is a good one, but it has a complicated answer.  The short answer is yes, charge capacity adds for both series and parallel cells.  Here's the long answer;

More correctly, it's energy capacity that adds.  For any battery, energy capacity is nominal voltage times charge capacity.  For one of the 14500s you mentioned, that would be .9Ah (900mAh) times 3.7 Volts for 3.3 Watt-hours. 

Run time is energy capacity divided by power consumption.  So, for a power consumption of say 6.6 Watts, that would be 3.3 Watt-hours divided by 6.6 Watts for a continuous run time of a half hour.  However, you don't power an atomizer continuously, but there's a way you can estimate run time.

To use your Puck as an example, each cell has energy capacity of 2.4 amp-hours (2400mAh) times 1.2V for 2.88 Watt-hours.  With four cells, that would be a total of 11.5 Watt-hours energy capacity.

If using a 2.6 Ohm atomizer, power consumption is about 7.7 Watts including losses in the battery.  Run time would be 11.5 Watt-hours divided by 7.7W for 1.5 hours or 90 minutes continuous.

Using a typcal hit time of 4 seconds, that would be 1350 hits to equal 90 minutes.  If you have an idea of how many hits you take in a day, you can estimate time between charges.  For me, it's about 1200, but I'm a heavy vaper.  Probably 600 would be more average.  So a little over two days run time for the Puck in this example.

As already mentioned, you must use a Li-Ion charger for a Li-Ion battery.  Ugly things could happen if you mix up the charger types (the battery could catch fire).  NiMH and Li-Ion use completely different charging profiles that couldn't be any more different.

Use a quality charger.  The most hazardous part of using a Li-Ion battery is charging.  Faults in charging cause Li-Ion batteries to do ugly things.  Use a trusted quality brand Li-Ion charger, Pila, Xtar, and Nitecore are good ones.  Avoid no-name or unknown brands.  Stay away from Trustfire, Ultrafire, or Tenergy.

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #26 on: September 18, 2013, 11:52:47 PM »
Thank you. Whats the cheapest quality battery charger you could recommend. Wife's not gonna be happy when I order it but its necessary. The reason I asked was I'm getting 3-5 days depending on which batteries I have I  it. 3 ohm carto or my aga t+ with 2.6-2.8 ohm coil. I vape constantly.  I'm a delivery driver so a lot of ride time. Its either vape or eat.


I'm designing my mod which is why I asked. I even figured out how to run 2 in parallel withing my enclosure. Which I think will have been unseen thus far from a wooden project.


Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #27 on: September 19, 2013, 12:04:25 PM »
The charger I've been using is an Xtar WP2 and they go for 20 to 25 bucks. This link is for a Canadian vendor but it has some good info on the charger if you scroll down the page:
http://www.jrcustomturning.com/product-p/chargerwp2.htm

The WP2 works for a wide size range of Li-Ion batteries as well and has 0.5amp (slow) and 1amp (fast) charging, although I never use the fast charge.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2013, 12:08:20 PM by kortt »

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #28 on: September 19, 2013, 01:42:33 PM »
Good to know thank you. When I get home ill hit that rep button. Pita from my phone.  So my wood mod enclosure will be dependant on my battery choice. My mod wont be your standard wood box mod. Itll look pretty good.

Offline elzakivis

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #29 on: September 19, 2013, 04:19:25 PM »
The charger I've been using is an Xtar WP2 and they go for 20 to 25 bucks. This link is for a Canadian vendor but it has some good info on the charger if you scroll down the page:
http://www.jrcustomturning.com/product-p/chargerwp2.htm

The WP2 works for a wide size range of Li-Ion batteries as well and has 0.5amp (slow) and 1amp (fast) charging, although I never use the fast charge.

Looks like a really nice charger kortt

This one looks like it can charge Ni-MH / Ni-Cd and Li-Ion batteries = Sysmax/Nitecore i4 Intellicharger V2

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #30 on: September 19, 2013, 10:20:35 PM »
seems that the nimh would work. perhaps not on par with the li ion but well enough.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/435835-vamo-pcb-nimh-batteries.html

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #31 on: September 20, 2013, 03:42:14 PM »
This is why I refuse to go to ECF, I looked at post #9 in that link and wanted to reach through the screen and slap the poster.  Bad information abounds there. 

I can think of a couple reasons why you don't want to use NiMH with the Vamo board.  It may work, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea.  For it to work with acceptable efficiency, you would need to use a 4S pack of C size maybe even D size NiMH cells.  That would be some brick of a mod. 

Oh, one note about the Nitecore multi-charger, it's a good charger but can have issues with protected Li-Ion batteries.  The charger senses battery voltage to determine battery type and thereby which charging profile to apply.  For a protected cell that has tripped due to an over-discharge condition, the charger will not apply charging voltage since it can not detect the battery type.  Since the charger does not apply voltage, the protection does not reset.  To put it simply, the Nitecore multi-charger will not charge an over-discharged protected battery.

In general, I recommend against multi-chargers, but that's not a strong recommendation.  Personally, I prefer to use a dedicated Li-Ion charger for Li-Ion batteries and a dedicated NiMH charger for NiMH batteries.


« Last Edit: September 20, 2013, 04:22:27 PM by CraigHB »

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #32 on: September 20, 2013, 04:18:58 PM »
I'm in agreement with Craig on ECF.   There is a lot of mis-information and much more chest pounding.  This is always the first place I come to look for info on anything modding/electronics related.

Online Breaktru

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #33 on: September 20, 2013, 04:52:11 PM »
I'm in agreement with Craig on ECF.   There is a lot of mis-information and much more chest pounding.  This is always the first place I come to look for info on anything modding/electronics related.

Amen, brother

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #34 on: September 20, 2013, 07:34:08 PM »
Ok. Ill make the move to li ion. The wife will have to get over it. I found the zmax pcb on madvapes and they also sell batteries and chargers and connectors. One stop shopping. Is there a battery and charger combo on their site you would trust?

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #35 on: September 20, 2013, 07:49:58 PM »
You know, MadVapes used to be like my number one spot for e-cig modding supplies, but they seem to have stopped updating their stock with the latest stuff out there.  Plus their web site runs horribly on my computer now.  I don't know maybe they no longer support IE like most web sites now.  I'm going to have to load a proper browser at some point.  I'm being stubbord with IE, but it's what I know and what I'm used to.

Anyway, I've seen lots of e-cig shops with a good selection of batteries and chargers.  Let me see if I can throw some links your way;

http://www.empiremods.com/category_s/20.htm

http://www.litecigusa.net/e_cigarette_batteries_s/226.htm

http://shop.nhaler.com/Batteries-for-APVs-Mods_c66.htm

http://www.vaporkings.com/Lithium-ion-batteries-and-chargers-s/82.htm

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #36 on: September 20, 2013, 08:11:30 PM »
If you want to go really cheap and don't care about shipping speed, you can go this route, the Xtar chargers are my favorite, especially the VP1;

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002304/1450109-xtar-vp1-dual-channels-multi-functional-li-ion

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1421/10002304/1450101

They're having some trouble shipping Li-Ions right now, but they have some amazing prices.  The battery linked below is my recommend for general e-cig use;

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001980/1233700-panasonic-ncr18650pd-18650-3-6v-2900mah

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #37 on: September 22, 2013, 04:28:03 PM »
Found this think im gonna purchase and strip the board. Seeing as the only bad thing ive heard about the vamo is the connector leaks causing the board to short.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10004394/1354800-vamo-v2-variable-voltage-mod-e-cigarette-battery

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #38 on: September 23, 2013, 02:04:24 PM »
I know you are concerned about cost, but I wouldn't skimp on your charger.  The charger in the package deal you listed looks like it's the tr-001 model...not really sure.  If it is that model I'd stay way from it.  That is the model I had that overcharged my batteries.  Personally I'd stay away from any trustfire charger, but that is just my opinion of course.

The links Craig listed are pretty good deals.  I might have to order me some of those batteries. :)

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #39 on: September 23, 2013, 08:25:16 PM »
With proper monitoring could over charging be avoided? That is to say checking voltage with a meter at 1/2 hour intervals.

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #40 on: September 23, 2013, 08:49:03 PM »
Don't skimp on your charger.  Just get a good one.  The risk of a problem is not worth the savings.  Even if a crappy charger doesn't do anything unsafe, you can end up spending a lot more on batteries.  Li-Ions are highly sensitive to charging faults.  A charger out of tolerance can cause premature wear and damage to the cells.

You can measure the voltage on the cells shortly after a charge cycle completes to verify correct charging voltage, but crappy chargers can lose calibration or suffer a failure at some random time.  Charging faults have the highest risk for safety issues.

Offline phoenix

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #41 on: September 23, 2013, 08:56:21 PM »
Its ordered. Ill wait a few weeks and get a better charger and better batteries.

Offline kortt

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #42 on: September 23, 2013, 09:19:11 PM »
Good luck with your purchase...always exciting to get new stuff. :)

If you want to learn a bit about Li-ion batteries and charging here is a video that explains about it.  Some of it gets a bit technical but the guys touches on a lot of points and explains about charging.
http://youtu.be/A6mKd5_-abk

Offline Lee1111

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #43 on: November 27, 2013, 12:48:12 AM »
So, I'd like to take the credit for getting this guy into vaping :-D he can have the credit for introducing me to this place. Came straight to the modding section lol.

Wish I'd have read the comments on the nitecore vs xtar chargers before tonight. Just ordered a 4 bay nitecore a few weeks ago. I also use a mechanicalmod so that's a little discouraging.

Keep up with the modding Px. I'm ready to see this new one

Offline grayem

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #44 on: June 01, 2014, 01:02:37 PM »
The vamo board is pretty basic to wire.  They should come with a small bit of white and black wire already attached.  I made up this crude drawing for a sort of diagram.

Thanks for the info on remotely connecting the fire button, can the same be done with the up/down p/b's?

Offline memoevapor

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #45 on: June 01, 2014, 01:12:16 PM »

Offline grayem

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #46 on: June 01, 2014, 06:22:06 PM »
Thanks for the welcome, and the link.
I have been lucky in my search and found some pictures on the Vamo board here http://ukvapers.org/Thread-Vamo-PCB-s (post #9 I think). Some kind soul has stripped a Vamo top board of all the components and then sanded of the solder resist from both sides to show the tracking and I could follow the path to find the answer I was looking for.
There is a connection diagram here http://ukvapers.org/Thread-Vamo-Mod-Circuit, and excluding the LED the poster has put in, it's given me all the info I need to fire up the CAD and get drawing.
Thanks once again.....

Offline memoevapor

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Re: My Puck.
« Reply #47 on: June 01, 2014, 08:52:54 PM »
Glad you got it grayem. Look forward to seeing your progress! ;cheers;

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