Author Topic: eGo PCB (Read 10565 times)

macaronytony · « **on:** March 31, 2014, 12:39:21 PM »

Why don't we use the PCB from eGo batteries? Is there some reason we don't mod with these little boards more?

I know we lose the variable voltage but I have done the DNA12, DNA20 and OKR-T6. I know what I like, so with the right choice of coil it's spot on for me.

Just a clue why I'm asking. Made a prototype mod for my Kayfun last week and used the DNA12 board. This mod lasted about 36 hours then for some reason it started firing on its own, checked the switch then all the wiring and soldered joints all to no avail. So I cut the DNA12 out but I had liked using the mod for the time it had worked.

Looking through my bits came across a pile of dud eGo batteries that I have been given over the months. Bet you've done the same told everybody any used or damaged bits give them to me I can re-use them.

So decided as a quick fix to use one of the eGo PCB, bit fiddly to solder to but it is doable. Just like to say I love it, been using it since Saturday morning and its working great.

CraigHB · « **Reply #1 on:** April 01, 2014, 11:21:39 AM »

Quote from: macaronytony on March 31, 2014, 12:39:21 PM

Why don't we use the PCB from eGo batteries? Is there some reason we don't mod with these little boards more?

Sure you can use an eGo board, but what do you get, not much. Just a tactile with an LED and a reduction in output. You can do better with a 3A switch and a protected battery. I suppose you could use the innards from a Twist and do a little better, but those are pretty limited in output. I think most are looking for higher outputs than that. If someone goes to the trouble to build a mod, they usually want a high degree of performance out of it.

Breaktru · « **Reply #2 on:** April 01, 2014, 11:30:20 AM »

Quote from: CraigHB on April 01, 2014, 11:21:39 AM

Sure you can use an eGo board, but what do you get, not much. Just a tactile with an LED and a reduction in output. You can do better with a 3A switch and a protected battery. I suppose you could use the innards from a Twist and do a little better, but those are pretty limited in output. I think most are looking for higher outputs than that. If someone goes to the trouble to build a mod, they usually want a high degree of performance out of it.

Right-On - I agree

macaronytony · « **Reply #3 on:** April 01, 2014, 12:15:24 PM »

Thanks for the answer Craig but why overlook something that's readily available and free. For somebody starting to mod then it's a first have a go board to learn on, with some protection and charging built in to a very tiny board. I was more interested in the limitations of the board but can't find much info if any.

This mod has a Sony 18650 VTC4 High Drain 30A 2100 mAh Li-Ion Battery in and I've worked out I'm getting about 10watts on a fresh charged battery dropping to about 8watts through the day and that just right for me. Used it all day Sunday and 8 hours Monday at work and the battery was still giving 3.6v.

CraigHB · « **Reply #4 on:** April 01, 2014, 01:22:48 PM »

Hehe, that's like putting a 426 Hemi in Volkswagen bug. Though, I'm not knocking it really. The eGo boards do a good enough job for what they're designed to do. It's just that most people who go to the effort to build a great looking mod like that are going to want to equal it with what they put inside.

With that eGo board, you're giving up a good amount of power that can be delivered to the atomizer instead of wasted as heat by the crappy little MOSFET and undersized PCB traces they use. That little booger will blow if you run anything much under 1.2 Ohms. I've torture tested a couple pulled out of worn eGo batts (my wife uses the eGos on occasion). The MOSFET and PCB gets really hot below 1.2 Ohms.

I torture tested those boards for a good reason. Wanted to make sure the board wouldn't blow with the 1.3 Ohm atomizer builds I set up for my wife. She uses one of my mods at home, but she uses the eGos when out. Also those were genuine Joyetech boards I tested. I've tried other brands and the quality is lower on them. The boards are not as tough. I only buy the genuine Joyetech eGos now.

macaronytony · « **Reply #5 on:** April 01, 2014, 01:39:04 PM »

Thanks again Craig, this was just a spur of the moment thing. I do have got the parts to build something better to go in when time allows and there is a pot already built in so don't want to waste that.

Just surprised me how simple a quick fix it was and the performance I was getting with 1.6 Ohm coil.

I will test this till it pops. I did put a full blown V8 in a Volvo 264 once upon a time, so there must be something wired wrong in my head.

CraigHB · « **Reply #6 on:** April 01, 2014, 01:51:42 PM »

Hey I can relate, there's always the novelty aspect.

BTW, those boards don't actually offer much protection for the battery other than over-discharge. They don't survive a short circuit so you have to be careful about atomizer shorts with them. The short circuit protection they offer is the MOSFET blows and fails open, but that may not always be the case, MOSFETs can go either way. If one fails short, you'll be smelling your circuits. That 30A Sony battery will make a fuse link out of the whole circuit so there's no worry about the battery there. For sure it would burn the circuit open somewhere before anything could happen to the battery.

macaronytony · « **Reply #7 on:** April 01, 2014, 02:53:04 PM »

Just what I was after some info on the boards, your much better than Google.

Just got to love this place for the amazing amount of information and the generous people prepared to share.