Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Romelee on December 27, 2013, 09:38:34 AM
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Hi all,
I am looking to build my first mod and have been looking at the Milo-DNA20D box mod.
This is what i am trying to make: http://www.howder.com/milo-dna20d.pdf
From this thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/366666-milo-dna20d-mod-step-step-how.html
First off i can say that i have not got a clue what is what when it comes to technical stuff but ain't that bad at making things so me saying i am scared is a understatement.
I have been trailing through this forum (and what a fantastic forum it is) for information etc etc and been looking all over the web for parts, been trying to get the parts from the UK just to speed things up.
Now the tricky part and i am probably gonna embarrass myself here :laughing2: with the items i have found, not 100% sure they are the correct items to make a fully built Milo.
Would someone be so kind to have a quick trail through the following items to see if i am on the right track before i start adding them to basket.
I have more than likely got it all wrong and have to go back to the drawing board :laughing2:
Here is what i have conjured up so far:
1 x Box case
http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/1590ABK/1590ABK-ND/460320
2 x PTC resettable fuses 16v, 3A
http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=uk&keywords=16R300GU&x=15&y=17&formaction=on
3 x Tactile switches
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electronic-cigarette-mod-parts/ecig-mod-parts-momentary-switches/SILVER-ROUND-300G-TACTILE-SWITCH
1 x Atty connector with Ego threading
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electronic-cigarette-mod-parts/EGO-AUTO-UNSEALED-CONNECTOR
1 x Heat shrink tubing
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/3-2mm-heat-shrink-tubing?filter_name=shrink
1 x Evolv micro-USB charging board
http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/MODS--Advanced/Evolv-Products/DNA-Charging-Board.Html
1 x Evolv DNA20D
http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/MODS--Advanced/Evolv-Products/DNA-20D-By-Evolv.html
1 x 10mm Kapton tape
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-10-20-30-50mm-33m-100ft-Kapton-Tape-High-Temperature-Heat-Resistant-Polyimide-/370924863942?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item565cd841c6
1 x 12mm Double sided tape
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Rolls-Strong-Permanent-Transparent-Double-Sided-Self-Adhesive-Craft-Hobby-Tape-/270912532744?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&var=&hash=item3f13a53108
1 x Scotch clear mounting mini tabs
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scotch-Restickable-Tabs-for-Mounting-Pack-of-18-Tabs-Ref-R100-/171034851064?pt=UK_BOI_Office_Office_Supplies_Stationery_ET&hash=item27d278b6f8
1 x Lexan clear polycarbonate cut to 38mm x 92mm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/121026812013?limghlpsr=true&lpid=102&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=102
1 x #12 finishing washer
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/200587627013?limghlpsr=true&lpid=102&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=102
1 x Window tinting film
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDOW-TINT-FILM-TINTING-LIMO-ULTRA-BLACK-5-50x300CM-/281159079487?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item417663163f
1 x Plastic Welder Clear 5' set time
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1oz-28-3g-Syringe-of-High-Strength-5-Minute-Epoxy-Glue-/140885903675?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item20cd74493b
1 x Plastic Welder 15' set time
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Epoxy-Glue-2-Part-Precision-20-Minute-Set-/150923630726?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item2323bfd886
2 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts
http://reflexshop.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=51773
1 x Black and Red 20 gauge wire
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13m-16-0-2mm-Equipment-Wire-Pack-20-AWG-11-Colours-Stranded-3A-1kV-rms-/230775844149
1 x Black, red, blue, yellow, and white 24 gauge Wire
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13m-7-0-2mm-Equipment-Wire-Pack-11-Colours-24-AWG-Stranded-/230803211941
scared:
Many thanks
Romelee
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I've just had a quick look and everything seems fine judging by milo's instructions.
The good thing about making your own is that you can change the design if you wish.
I'm in the UK and I use Perspex quite a lot, I get mine from kitronik.
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I've just had a quick look and everything seems fine judging by milo's instructions.
The good thing about making your own is that you can change the design if you wish.
I'm in the UK and I use Perspex quite a lot, I get mine from kitronik.
Thanks :)
The only thing that is bothering me is how i will get this to fit as it is a different Atty connector to Milo's
1 x Atty connector with Ego threading
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electronic-cigarette-mod-parts/EGO-AUTO-UNSEALED-CONNECTOR
Also changed this:
1 x Window tinting film
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDOW-TINT-FILM-TINTING-LIMO-ULTRA-BLACK-5-50x300CM-/281159079487?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item417663163f
too
1 x Window tinting paint
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Window-Tint-Spray-Auto-Lights-Body-Aerosol-Paint-Tinting-Black-Smoke-Glass-/251370853940?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&var=550322995704&hash=item3a86ded634
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I've never used an ego type connector but I would assume that you would need drill the hole perfect for the connector to be push fitted and still remain solid.
The enclosure that you're using is around 2mm thick.
I use the normal connectors and I drill the enclosure bigger than the hole. I then attach the connector to a rubber and a steel washer and glue it from the inside.
I've never tried the spray paint but kitronic do different colour see through Perspex.
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For the most part, you can build Milo with different parts or even a different enclosure to suit what you need. The ego connector will be aok in Milo. And the window tint spray is what I used before switching to tinted acrylic.
It's absolutely awesome to vape with a mod you've built yourself. Happy modding and enjoy the venture!!
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For the most part, you can build Milo with different parts or even a different enclosure to suit what you need. The ego connector will be aok in Milo. And the window tint spray is what I used before switching to tinted acrylic.
It's absolutely awesome to vape with a mod you've built yourself. Happy modding and enjoy the venture!!
Thanks mamu, to be honest this is the one i really want to make as i love it to bits but i can only presume the above parts would need a complete overhaul, spent 2 hours yesterday just trying to find the casing and still couldn't find it :laughing2:
Your DNA20D Stealth Mod
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/image_zpsc5a8cad8.jpg)
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The battery and the tact switches that you bought for Milo are the same ones I use in Stealthy. You will have to de-solder the leads from the batt, bend the top of the batt and tabs over to make room for it to fit in the case though. You don't have to do that with Milo. Or if you use the E-Fly 1200mAh, 20C lipo batt you wouldn''t have to do that as it's smaller in height and fits aok without modification. Also, in Stealthy I'm now using smd fuses. You might have a problem using the ego connector in Stealthy though. I had to dremel off a bit on the underside of the 510 connector I used so that the batt will fit.
I got my inspiration for that mod from breaktru and retird. Breaktru is the first to have made a stealth size mod using that batt box with the DNA20D and he put a 1200mAh round nano tech lipo (hobbyking.com) on one side of the batt box and the rest of the components on the other side.
So you have options for design layout.
google "9 Volt Battery Box". I would think a seller from ebay uk would have that batt box or maybe an electronics site in the uk.
I feel for you as this is an expensive build for you to gather all these parts from different places and with the added shipping. Those tact switches from the uk vape vendor are really expensive. I buy them from arrow.com here in the US. arroweurope.com has them for £0.41, but then you'd have that shipping too.
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Thanks mamu, i have been searching all morning and have decided that i like the Stealth mod more, i ain't going to try as small as that one so my box size is ( Length 75mm - Width 48mm - Height 27mm )
Plus this way i won't have to buy any tinting and Lexan clear polycarbonate and will also only need 1 lipo battery, because of this and shopping around more i have brought the price from £133.00 delivered too £115.00 delivered.
The only things i ain't 100% sure if they are correct is the Tactile switches & PTC resettable fuses 30v, 3A as i have changed supplier..also changed the finishing washer to a solid one.
Anyway here is the final list and am hoping it is correct, really looking forward to building this as i do love making things.
I will have some bits over as some of the items had a minimum order but no loss as i can use them for maybe another mod:
1 x Box case( Length 75mm - Width 48mm - Height 27mm )
£1.75 each
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/general-purpose-enclosures/2816863/
3 x Tactile switches
£1.52 each
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/0102383/
2 x PTC resettable fuses 30v, 3A
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/resettable-wire-ended-fuses/5176821/
£0.38 each
1 x Atty connector with Ego threading
£2.70 each
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electronic-cigarette-mod-parts/EGO-AUTO-UNSEALED-CONNECTOR
1 x Evolv micro-USB charging board
£7.50 each
http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/MODS--Advanced/Evolv-Products/DNA-Charging-Board.Html
1 x Evolv DNA20D
£49.95 each
http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/MODS--Advanced/Evolv-Products/DNA-20D-By-Evolv.html
1 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts
£8.39 each
http://reflexshop.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=51773
1 x Black Heat shrink tubing (1 meter)
£1.39 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-2mm-Heatshrink-sleeving-tubing-black-red-white-yellow-brown-grey-blue-/120930891006?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item1c280af4fe
1 x 10mm Kapton tape
£3.39 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-10-20-30-50mm-33m-100ft-Kapton-Tape-High-Temperature-Heat-Resistant-Polyimide-/370924863942?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item565cd841c6
1 x 12mm Double sided tape
£2.49 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Rolls-Strong-Permanent-Transparent-Double-Sided-Self-Adhesive-Craft-Hobby-Tape-/270912532744?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&var=&hash=item3f13a53108
1 x Scotch clear mounting mini tabs
£3.32 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scotch-Restickable-Tabs-for-Mounting-Pack-of-18-Tabs-Ref-R100-/171034851064?pt=UK_BOI_Office_Office_Supplies_Stationery_ET&hash=item27d278b6f8
1 x #12 finishing washer
£2.50 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-SOLID-STAINLESS-STEEL-TURNED-FULL-BODY-SCREW-CUP-WASHERS-CSK-SOCKET-METRIC-/360796868434
1 x Plastic Welder Clear 5' set time
£4.50 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1oz-28-3g-Syringe-of-High-Strength-5-Minute-Epoxy-Glue-/140885903675?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item20cd74493b
1 x Plastic Welder 15' set time
£3.50 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Epoxy-Glue-2-Part-Precision-20-Minute-Set-/150923630726?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item2323bfd886
1 x Black and Red 20 gauge wire
£2.55 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13m-16-0-2mm-Equipment-Wire-Pack-20-AWG-11-Colours-Stranded-3A-1kV-rms-/230775844149
1 x Black, red, blue, yellow, and white 24 gauge Wire
£2.15 each
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13m-7-0-2mm-Equipment-Wire-Pack-11-Colours-24-AWG-Stranded-/230803211941
£115.00 delivered
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Perfect Romelee!
With that depth of 27mm for the case, you'll be able to fit 2x 1200mAh batts for a total of 2400mAh. You'll really like that for longer vape time than with a single 1200mAh batt.
When working with cutouts for the case and using a dremel, just turn the speed down a bit so you don't warp or melt the plastic. For the rectangular cutout for the DNA display, you can make it nice and tidy and square up the edges by using needle files. Working with plastic is so much easier than working with aluminum.
With that width of 48mm, you have a few design layouts you could think about.
You can do the front and center triangle layout like with Stealthy where the DNA board rests on top of the batts, or you can do the side layout like I did with my eclipse where the batts are positioned on one side and the DNA and buttons are all positioned along the other side.
(http://www.howder.com/eclipse3.jpg)
(http://www.howder.com/eclipse6.jpg)
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Perfect Romelee!
With that depth of 27mm for the case, you'll be able to fit 2x 1200mAh batts for a total of 2400mAh. You'll really like that for longer vape time than with a single 1200mAh batt.
When working with cutouts for the case and using a dremel, just turn the speed down a bit so you don't warp or melt the plastic. For the rectangular cutout for the DNA display, you can make it nice and tidy and square up the edges by using needle files. Working with plastic is so much easier than working with aluminum.
With that width of 48mm, you have a few design layouts you could think about.
You can do the front and center triangle layout like with Stealthy where the DNA board rests on top of the batts, or you can do the side layout like I did with my eclipse where the batts are positioned on one side and the DNA and buttons are all positioned along the other side.
(http://www.howder.com/eclipse3.jpg)
(http://www.howder.com/eclipse6.jpg)
Fantastic, thought you was gonna say "Sorry all the wrong parts" :laughing2:
With the highlighted hole is there anyway a charging light can be put there for when the USB cable is attached? if so what item would it be on this site: http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electronic-cigarette-mod-parts
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/1_zpsfcb49b4e.jpg)
And also how is it conntected, i pressume on the USB charger not the DNA20 board.
Last but not least as i have changed the supplier for the following items i am still unsure of the specs, could you confirm they would work fine:
3 x Tactile switches
£1.52 for 5 (minimum order)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/0102383/
2 x PTC resettable fuses 30v, 3A
£0.38 for 10 (minimum order)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/resettable-wire-ended-fuses/5176821/
p.s Deffo now gonna use 2 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts now that you say that they will fit, more longer lasting battery the better :D
Again many thanks for your help on this, you have helped me greatly and is much appreciated
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See attached................
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...With the highlighted hole is there anyway a charging light can be put there for when the USB cable is attached?
And also how is it conntected, i pressume on the USB charger not the DNA20 board.
On the Evolv usb board there is a green for fully charged/red during charging LED. If you make a small hole (1/16") next to the usb cutout on the case, that LED will shine through that hole. You don't need to connect anything as the light from the LED will shine through that hole when the LED is lit.
Breaktru shows where he laid a short piece of fiber optic or monofilament (you can use a short piece of fishing line) across the LED on the usb board and then inserted the opposite end of that line through the hole. What this does is make that LED light from the usb board shine through the hole nice and bright. It's a great idea and really makes the LED light shine through the hole nice and bright.
To connect the usb charging board to the DNA board, you simply wire + from the usb board to + charging pin on the DNA board and wire - from the usb board to - charging pin on the DNA board. Make sure you have the DNA20D datasheet printed out when you do the build as you'll need to refer to it for wiring. The Milo tutorial also has the wiring guide and other how-to mod stuff and you should have that printed out too while doing the build.
Last but not least as i have changed the supplier for the following items i am still unsure of the specs, could you confirm they would work fine:
3 x Tactile switches
£1.52 for 5 (minimum order)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/0102383/
2 x PTC resettable fuses 30v, 3A
£0.38 for 10 (minimum order)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/resettable-wire-ended-fuses/5176821/
The tact switch is the same as I use, except that one is a 300g force and the ones I use is a 200g force. But other than that, it is the exact same switch.
The PTC fuses are fine - the resistance will be half when you wire it in parallel and the hold current will double and that's what you want
p.s Deffo now gonna use 2 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts now that you say that they will fit, more longer lasting battery the better :D
Definitely great for longer vape times between charging.
Again many thanks for your help on this, you have helped me greatly and is much appreciated
YW!
Can't wait to see your mod!! :yes"
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Thanks all for the info, will keep you posted on my development, just gotta stock my bank account back up a bit due to Christmas spending and then get all the bits.
;cheers;
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Hi mamu :help: sorry to be a pain but i have ordered all parts and just need to clear a few things up, these questions may sound silly i know.
First off, i have changed my mind on the box as the small ones turned up and i didn't like them, just didn't feel right so i have ordered this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005T95KMK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Taken from this guide: http://www.howder.com/milo-dna20d.pdf
1st: The fuses have two legs on each, once all soldered together in parallel does it matter what leg the red wire is attached too?
2nd: You mention on the guide: De-solder and remove the on-board tactile fire button, i take it that this is not going to be of any use anymore as the new tactile button replaces this?
3rd: On your guide you mention:
C. Wire the 24g yellow wire to the down wattage control pins.
D. Wire the 24g white wire to the up wattage control pins.
(Ignoring the fire button) Judging by your picture with the wires in place the yellow is above the white so that would be top button to turn down wattage and bottom button to turn up the wattage, does it have to be this way as i would prefer the top button to up the wattage (white) and bottom button to lower the wattage (yellow)
4th: On your guide you mention:
You only need 2 legs of the 4 legs on each button. Cut the 2 legs not needed
close to the button's body. Straighten the remaining 2 legs.
Does it matter what legs of each button i use?
5th: Last but not least, i have some 3mm Dark Blue Tint Acrylic Sheet Polished Cut To Size for the face, i have to drill four screw holes and the worst part which is worrying me is making a cutout for the USB......i there any advice you can give on making a cutout to make it look very professional? i have plenty of tools (half of them i don't even know their purpose) and just got this lot for Christmas from the wife:
New box i have chosen: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005T95KMK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you think i will have to do this with the following cover:
Front cover i have chosen: http://www.sheetplastics.co.uk/Polished_Perspex/tint_pers_pol/dblue_tint_pol_cat/3mm_dbtint_pol
Optional: if using tinting film, because tinting plus the black transparent plastic piece will make the display too dark, I remove the black transparent piece covering the OLED. I use a craft knife and slip it under a corner of the plastic piece then slide the craft knife along the underside of the plastic piece.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/2_zpsa4c9a875.jpg)
So hopefully that will help me a bit (don't think tomb raider will though)
Again sorry for all the questions but i have a old saying it's better to ask questions then to guess the answers
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Woweee New tools :rockin smiley:
Have fun playing with your Santa gifts
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...First off, i have changed my mind on the box as the small ones turned up and i didn't like them, just didn't feel right so i have ordered this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005T95KMK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's a rather large enclosure height and width wise compared to the Hammond 1590ABK or the plastic one you had ordered, but is certainly doable. With that width and height, you'd be able to fit bigger batts with more mAh and have even longer vape times.
1st: The fuses have two legs on each, once all soldered together in parallel does it matter what leg the red wire is attached too?
Fuses have no polarity, so it doesn't matter.
2nd: You mention on the guide: De-solder and remove the on-board tactile fire button, i take it that this is not going to be of any use anymore as the new tactile button replaces this?
Correct - the onboard fire button, as well as the onboard up/down watts buttons are not used.
Removing the onboard fire button is to reduce the height so everything fits inside the case. I also remove it even if I do have the space as a caution cuz I don't want it accidentally pressed from the inside. With some of my mods space is at a premium - batts, switches, electronics, etc are packed in so that one component is butted against another or sits on top another. I don't want anything to accidentally press that button so I always remove it.
What I've been doing this last year to remove that fire button is use a small nipper to cut the button's leads off the board. I carefully insert the nipper just under the edge of the button and into one of the leads soldered closest to the edge of the board and snip that lead off. Then I do the same for the other lead soldered closest to the edge of the board. After those 2 leads are removed, I gently rock the button back and forth til the other 2 leads break away. You have to be careful when doing this, and you may lose the 2 traces that run underneath that button, but the traces under the button are only for the onboard button so no worries if you do lose a trace.
If you're not comfortable doing this, don't do it. I've done it a kazillion times now and have gotten it down pat where I insert the nippers at a high angle underneath the edge of the button and into the lead and just snip the lead and don't lose the traces. But like I said, if you lose the traces, or even the pads, not a big deal as they're not being used.
3rd: On your guide you mention:
C. Wire the 24g yellow wire to the down wattage control pins.
D. Wire the 24g white wire to the up wattage control pins.
(Ignoring the fire button) Judging by your picture with the wires in place the yellow is above the white so that would be top button to turn down wattage and bottom button to turn up the wattage, does it have to be this way as i would prefer the top button to up the wattage (white) and bottom button to lower the wattage (yellow)
Yeah well what I did with my 1st Milo when I wrote that tute was backwards - I blame it on the leftie in me. :laughing: Since then I wire the correct way with the up watts button on top and the down watts button on bottom.
With these builds you have the option to do it any way you like. And it's funny, but I've been waiting for just this question for about a year now and you're the first to mention it after all this time. I'm sure people have wondered about it though lol.
4th: On your guide you mention:
You only need 2 legs of the 4 legs on each button. Cut the 2 legs not needed
close to the button's body. Straighten the remaining 2 legs.
Does it matter what legs of each button i use?
Yes, it does matter - if you cut off the wrong 2 leads the button will be unusable.
If not sure which 2 leads to cut off, check continuity with your multimeter. Place one probe on one lead, then the other probe on another lead - press the button. If you hear a beep and get a reading those 2 leads are connected and you can wire to those 2 leads. If you don't hear a beep or get a reading when pressing the button, then those 2 leads are not connected and cannot be used together.
A quick way though, is that with that tact button, the 2 leads on one side are connected and the 2 leads on the other side are connected. So if you cut off the 2 leads on one side, you'll use the 2 leads on the other side for wiring.
5th: Last but not least, i have some 3mm Dark Blue Tint Acrylic Sheet Polished Cut To Size for the face, i have to drill four screw holes and the worst part which is worrying me is making a cutout for the USB......i there any advice you can give on making a cutout to make it look very professional?
I have a dremel bit set: Durable 3mm Shank 3mm CED Tungsten Carbide Cutter Rotary File Bur Burr 20Pcs (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-3mm-Shank-3mm-CED-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-Rotary-File-Bur-Burr-20Pcs-/191001374832?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c7891b070)
If you look at the pic, the tapered tip the 9th from the right is the one I use to cut the usb cutout. I dremel to just an unch around the edges of the cutout, then use a round needle file to tidy up the hole and shape it to how I want.
For the size and shape to cut the the micro usb cutout, you can google it and look at images and then print it and use that as a guide.
Here's the template I use for the Milo door (your template height and width will be bigger since you're not using the Milo case). I use double sided tape to adhere the template to the piece of acrylic, then cut and shape the outer edges and round the corners with a dremel heavy duty cutting wheel. Then using 320 grit sandpaper, I sand the edges and corners nice and smooth.
I tried to copy this 1:1, but it looks bigger than the actual Milo door template... but it gives you an idea of how I do it...
(http://www.howder.com/milocover.jpg)
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Thanks mamu for the replies :)
That's a rather large enclosure height and width wise compared to the Hammond 1590ABK or the plastic one you had ordered, but is certainly doable. With that width and height, you'd be able to fit bigger batts with more mAh and have even longer vape times.
The other reason i chose that box was because it is my first time build so i also thought better for me to have more space to work with to get used to how things work, didn't want to dive into the deep end.
Yes, it does matter - if you cut off the wrong 2 leads the button will be unusable.
If not sure which 2 leads to cut off, check continuity with your multimeter. Place one probe on one lead, then the other probe on another lead - press the button. If you hear a beep and get a reading those 2 leads are connected and you can wire to those 2 leads. If you don't hear a beep or get a reading when pressing the button, then those 2 leads are not connected and cannot be used together.
A quick way though, is that with that tact button, the 2 leads on one side are connected and the 2 leads on the other side are connected. So if you cut off the 2 leads on one side, you'll use the 2 leads on the other side for wiring.
So i cannot just simply for instance just cut off lets say the top two legs and use just the bottom two legs of each tactile switch.
Cheers
Jason
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Ignore my post about the tactile switches, all sorted, went out and bought a new multimeter as my other one decided to die.
All switches when the button is pressed beeped on the multimeter using this format:
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/1_zpsdf5afff7.jpg)
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mamu, last question i promise (i think)
I am having problems with the company who i bought these from:
2 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts (Length 60mm - Width 20mm - Depth 10mm) from here http://reflexshop.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=51773
They have took my money but i ain't had any confirmation of order, been emailing them for about 5 days now and still no answer >:(
So i think i will have to get some from here: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/index.asp
I am totally useless when it comes to batteries, would you be so kind to choose one for me that will work with the fuses etc etc that i bought above and will fit my new box from here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005T95KMK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Preferably in stock in the UK
Apart from that i think i am good to go, all other parts will be with me tomorrow.
Many thanks
Jason
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Ignore my post about the tactile switches, all sorted, went out and bought a new multimeter as my other one decided to die.
All switches when the button is pressed beeped on the multimeter using this format:
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/1_zpsdf5afff7.jpg)
If you take a look at the picture I show in the Milo tute, you'll see that you'll need to wire the leads on the left side and cut the leads off that are on the right side.
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Yep sorry manu, silly me was a bit lost so i ended up just going by this:
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/tactwirea_engadget_howto_zps90a5c1c4.jpg)
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Where's the multi quote button? :laughing:
mamu, last question i promise (i think)
I am having problems with the company who i bought these from:
2 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts (Length 60mm - Width 20mm - Depth 10mm) from here http://reflexshop.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=51773
They have took my money but i ain't had any confirmation of order, been emailing them for about 5 days now and still no answer >:(
So i think i will have to get some from here: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/index.asp
I am totally useless when it comes to batteries, would you be so kind to choose one for me that will work with the fuses etc etc that i bought above and will fit my new box from here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005T95KMK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Preferably in stock in the UK
Apart from that i think i am good to go, all other parts will be with me tomorrow.
Many thanks
Jason
I'm not sure if you're familiar with working with lipoly batts, so I looked for 1S batts and here's the options for the case you've chosen:
You may be able to fit 2 of these 2200mAh lipoly batts if you bend the tabs over (the height is too long with the tabs extended): http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__34562__Turnigy_2200mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__34562__Turnigy_2200mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_UK_Warehouse_.html)
2 of these 1000mAh batts will fit, maybe 3: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__34561__Turnigy_1000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__34561__Turnigy_1000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_UK_Warehouse_.html)
3 or 4 of these 1000mAh round nano tech batts will fit: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__37564__Turnigy_nano_tech_1000mah_1S_15C_Round_Lipo_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__37564__Turnigy_nano_tech_1000mah_1S_15C_Round_Lipo_UK_Warehouse_.html)
3 of these 1200mAh round nano tech batts will fit: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__40130__Turnigy_nano_tech_1200mah_1S_15C_Round_Lipo_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__40130__Turnigy_nano_tech_1200mah_1S_15C_Round_Lipo_UK_Warehouse_.html)
The batts recommended for Milo don't need any wiring to the tabs or modification - the batts listed above you'll need to wire directly to the tabs.
When working with lipoly batts, be very very careful that you don't short the batt (explosion and fire hazard), rip or puncture the foil (explosion and fire hazard), and when all the wiring is done completely cover the tabs with electrical or Kapton tape.
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Yep sorry manu, silly me was a bit lost so i ended up just going by this:
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/tactwirea_engadget_howto_zps90a5c1c4.jpg)
It's much simpler to just use the leads on one side and have the wires going in the same direction. Less brain work that way. :laughing:
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Thanks manu, i do like the look of these, and to have 2 x of them : http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__34562__Turnigy_2200mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_UK_Warehouse_.html
Is there any word/picture guide you know of, of how to wire them up?
Never seen batteries like them, hence me not knowing much about the battery side of things :(
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The two top pieces on each battery covered with yellow Kapton tape are the connection tabs - When you're working with a li-poly as Mamu said you need to be careful not to short it out so take the first battery - The tabs will be marked + & - Remove the Kapton tape from one tab - solder on a wire (you don't have to use different colored wire but i would just to reduce sods law) let it cool down and cover and cover the solder joint and tab in either electrical tape or Kapton tape (You need to cover all of the exposed wire solder joint and tab with this) . Once you have it covered do the same to the second battery tab .. When you have done both batteries then you have it pretty much like Milo - Strip the positives on both batteries . join and wrap them as per Mamu's pic and then do the negatives (and don't forget the fuses lol)
Be careful not to leave a + and - unwrapped at the same this will reduce your chance of having any shorts going on - You can actually solder the tabs together and then add a single wire to each tab but it's a lot more Faff if you get a dead cell to remove things that way imo
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Here's a vid with a pack being taken apart - Bear in mind though that this is done in series + to - but at least you can see the tabs on here - As you are only using two bats you don't need to worry about soldering the tabs together over a board but it does at least give you some general rules in working with Lipoly (even if he doesn't follow his own advice lol)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVMuaDnsqiA
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Thanks warlordxxx, looks a bit straight forward how you have worded it, the only thing that really confused me was i did not see any wires coming out of the batteries but how you explained it explains all.
;cheers;
Just ordered two.
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I would recommend against disassembling packs for individual cells. You can get individual cells from HobbyKing for really cheap so there's no reason to do it in terms of expense.
There's a couple problems with disassembling packs. For one, you're subjecting the cells to the heat of soldering three times, first for the original installation, second for removal, and third for remounting. The tabs can take an amount of heat, but you risk damaging the cell every time you solder one. Also, the tabs have been trimmed which can be a problem for remounting. It makes it physically more difficult to mount the cell and increases heat exposure since the tabs have to be soldered closer.
If you have one of those archaic soldering irons like the one in the video, throw it away. They're not even good for soldering wires. They're far too hot for soldering any kind of electronics, especially LiPo cells. You should be using a decent quality soldering station with an adjustable temperature. There is no exception to that. If you don't have an adjustable soldering station, you 're going to have to buy one. They're not particularly expensive so it shouldn't be a problem. I recommend the Hakko FX888D. It's one of the more inexpensive stations and the quality is very good.
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Yeah i meant to add the deconstruction video is only there so you can see what the tabs look like and the precautionary measures you should take when working with li-po bats - There's simply no point buying packs to rip them apart when you are doing single cells but in parallel - It's much easier and less destructive to buy single cells that you linked and wiring them yourself
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Sounds fair. I've seen people do that for building mods and I wanted to point out there's really no reason to and it's not a particularly good idea. Also that ridiculous soldering iron, wanted to make a point of that mainly.
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I couldn't agree more - My dad still has one and wondered why I wasn't using it lol
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Those irons were designed for electronics of the 1950s that had very large circuit board pads and large heavy terminals on tube sockets. You need a lot of heat to solder that stuff. They were fine for that, but they became obsolete as soon as electronics went to solid state. Modern electronics require precise temperature control to avoid damage from overheating.
For some reason people think those industrial age soldering irons are still relevant. I think you can even still find them for sale. Talk about using the wrong tools, can't think of a better example.
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Those irons were designed for electronics of the 1950s that had very large circuit board pads and large heavy terminals on tube sockets. You need a lot of heat to solder that stuff. They were fine for that, but they became obsolete as soon as electronics went to solid state. Modern electronics require precise temperature control to avoid damage from overheating.
For some reason people think those industrial age soldering irons are still relevant. I think you can even still find them for sale. Talk about using the wrong tools, can't think of a better example.
That iron you an find at harbor freight and auto stores I saw one last week at Oreilly's thought it was a good iron too it had all kinds of attachments like a plastic cutter head foam etc. Woot grand info again this forum rocks..
When you say it gets hot OMG..
Tip heats to 1135° F in just 12 seconds
Built-in light for clear viewing
Textured grip
Works with mixed alloy solder, brazing rods
http://www.harborfreight.com/180-watt-industrial-soldering-gun-4328.html
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I bought 99.7 % pure nicotine liquid from a chinese friend. the problem is it came without strength and im new and not a chemist so has anyone ever had experience with aopate and their pure nicotine?
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I wouldn't touch that without a complete chemisty lab setup - The details on their site are
Product's information
Product name:99.8%,998mg/ml pure nicotine
Extract part:natural tobacco leaf
Appearance:colorless to shallow yellow oily liquid
You have bought 998mg nicotine which like i said i would not touch without full lab equipment - Respirator , heavy gloves, eyewear and extraction fans - The full works - I would touch it even less without full nicotine titration kits to be sure of your actual strength of nicotine.
This thread might be of some use to you http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?topic=138.0
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Batteries have been dispatched :D
Quick question, them + & - tabs, when the tape has been taken off do the tabs have solder already on them? so it's just a case of soldering the wire too them.
If they don't have solder already on them do i need to put some flux on the tabs before putting some solder on the tabs?
Don't know if this soldering iron is gonna work though, i have the following (don't laugh...hehe)
http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Draper-60w-230v-Soldering-Iron-91-4099/?source=googleps&utm_source=googleps&gclid=COXMyMzG4rsCFUr4wgodiiYA_g
and this one:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-F0132200JA-VersaFlame/dp/B001DH7SP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388770889&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+blowtorch
If they ain't no good any thoughts on one that will, i have looked at the Hakko FX888D but that is out of my price range atm.
Cheers again
Jason
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To solder the tabs, you need to use some Scotchbrite or similar on them to get the surface as clean as possible. Then apply rosin flux liberally. Use 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core solder. Avoid exposing the tabs to the heat of soldering for extended lengths of time.
60 Watts is way too hot. Even a 25 Watt pencil is too hot. Those are typcially 750F and you don't want to go over 600F with the tabs. If you insist on spending as little as possible on an iron, use a 25 watt pencil like this (http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=SP23L&ref=gbase&gclid=CNHrzevS4rsCFZFxQgodDXMANQ). Though, I strongly recommend you spend the money for a proper soldering station. The Hakko one I mentioned can be found for under $100 in the US, but I see you're in the UK so I can't help you with vendors.
Post #33, was off the wall. I see people talking about getting pure nicotine every now and then, the Chinese will sell you anything. That stuff is way too dangerous to handle. One of these days someone is going to hurt themselves.
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Post #33, was off the wall. I see people talking about getting pure nicotine every now and then, the Chinese will sell you anything. That stuff is way too dangerous to handle. One of these days someone is going to hurt themselves.
I'm thinking that its a spammer. Especially looking at the members email address which no one else can see.
I am about to delete it unless clueless vapor can convince me that he's legit.
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Sorry CraigHB i linked the wrong solder iron, got this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-71416-25-Watt-Soldering-Iron/dp/B0001KA1Q2 and the other one i linked.
Only info i have on the dremel soldering is that it it : 550°C (soldering tip)
Not sure if the tip will be good though and will be good enough for the rest of the setup.
Aint got a clue what solder has been supplied with the Draper solder and the Dremel solder but found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-0mm-Soldering-Wire-Solder-Iron-Dispenser-Tube-60-40-Tin-Resin-Flux-Rosin-Core-/400601869529?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item5d45bb6cd9
One thing that is confusing me is, once all fitted/wired and the mod is ready do i just charge the mod as usual or are the batteries already charged, it's just that i am reading all bad stories on google about parallel lipo batteries etc etc and am getting quite worried.....i think i am looking into it too much and am worrying myself tbh
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The 25 Watt iron you linked to should be able to do the job. Just be a little more careful with heat exposure since it's going to be somewhat hotter than ideal. Make sure the tip is cleaned, tinned, and shiny before applying it to the tab. A clean tip maximizes heat transfer reducing soldering times and heat exposure for the cell.
LiPos are a bit more hazardous than the round cells in that the tabs are readily exposed to short circuits. I've accidentally done that a few times myself. It startles the hell out of you when it happens, but they're not like TNT, they don't explode instantly when mishandled. They can actually take a good amount of abuse. I've done some ugly things to the cell I keep on my workbench for testing with overloads, overdischarge, and short circuits and have not had one catch on fire from that.
LiPos are are vulnerable to physical damage since they are only encased in thick foil compared to the hard sheet metal tube of the round cells. A puncture will light one up for sure. You need to be more careful with them physically.
For any Li-Ion including LiPos you have to take care when using them in parallel. If there's a big differential in charge level when initially connecting them, large equalization currents can occur that can cause overheating and possibly fire. Just measure each cell prior to making the initial connection to make sure voltage is matched within a few hundredths of a Volt. Once they are permanently connected, they behave as one cell and there is no longer any worry.
Cells normally come from the maker with a charge of 3.8 Volts. This is the ideal charge level for storage (40%). All of the new cells I've received have been very close to that so likely if you connect them before doing anything with them, they will be matched in terms of charge level. You should still check them before connecting them.
Oh, in terms of solder and flux, any 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core solder and any rosin flux should be fine. There are various types of rosin flux, like water base or "no clean", but I prefer the activated RMA type. The activated RMA type works really well, but it has to be cleaned off with pure ispropyl alcohol after soldering is complete.
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Thanks Craig, my mind is now at rest ;cheers;
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See my edit, added some info there.
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I'm thinking that its a spammer. Especially looking at the members email address which no one else can see.
I am about to delete it unless clueless vapor can convince me that he's legit.
Delete away, just really odd a spammer would make a post like that, and also that it's about as OT as you can get for the current topic. There's no sense in it. Amazing the noise that pops up on the net sometimes.
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I agree and if you do please feel free to delete any of my replies to help keep the thread reading on topic - I thought it seemed a little fishy but put the posting in the wrong place being with a new member but you can never tell so thought i should at least give some general safety advice
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I myself found it a bit strange of posting about nic base on this thread but thought he/she was a bit lost but now looking at the nic base freaked_out:
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The 999 pure is an amazing vape it show you the face of GOD. :wallbash: lol
I switched to Kester solder with Craig's recommend of 63/37 that solder is leagues beyond any solder I have used.
It will tact anything by itself put some flux with it and whoa thats welded ... :thumbsup:
I was using IDK whats in this solder from china, said it was toxic safe and low melting point -- it was horrible... At work we use a torch and rod to solder lugs on, smallest wire we work with is #10, I knew notta about electronics solder then, now woot.
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I've come across that Chinese stuff before. I don't know what the hell it is, but it melts like paste and hardens to an ugly dull finish. Joints come out shiney and clean looking with the 63/37 which I like much better than 60/40. You wouldn't think 3% either way would make much difference, but it does.
The thing with leaded solder is that just about all makers have implemented the ROHS standard that eliminates the use of it. I'm hoping that tin/lead solder does not become hard to get at some point. It really is much better than anything else. The lead free stuff doesn't work nearly as well.
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Got myself some of this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370880533175?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Atleast i will know what it is as the other solder does not indicate what it is.
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Looks like the good stuff, 63/37, rosin core, 1mm. Should do the job nicely.
It doesn't say, but the rosin is probably the standard activated type so you'll need to clean it off with isoproyl alcohol when done soldering. You can use the higher purity rubbing alcohol from the drug store, something like 90% will do. I normally buy the technical grade stuff from MG Chemicals which is like 99.5% pure, but I've used the 90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore before and it works well enough.
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lol @ the thread spammer. It's like wut? :laughing:
It's good to have a healthy concern about what you're going to be faced with when working with lipoly batts, Romelee.
Good info and advice here from warlord and Craig.
I remember my first time - all the cautions and concerns and I was freakin a bit. After a few times of working with them, you're not as nervous, but still always cautious.
Another option with the size of enclosure you have, you could easily fit a dual 18650 batt holder and use dual parallel 18650 batts.
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Good to see you here Mamu I remember when I was first starting out on the OKR mods and I PM'd you on ECF asking which toggle switches you used lol and I remember PM'ing Breaktru when I first came over here - Yes I was that nuisance lol
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Looks like the good stuff, 63/37, rosin core, 1mm. Should do the job nicely.
It doesn't say, but the rosin is probably the standard activated type so you'll need to clean it off with isoproyl alcohol when done soldering. You can use the higher purity rubbing alcohol from the drug store, something like 90% will do. I normally buy the technical grade stuff from MG Chemicals which is like 99.5% pure, but I've used the 90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore before and it works well enough.
Just aswell i have about 750ml of 99.5% isoproyl , use it to clean most of my vaping gear.....i am a severe OCD person....everything must be clean :yes"
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I remember my first time - all the cautions and concerns and I was freakin a bit. After a few times of working with them, you're not as nervous, but still always cautious.
I even solder the round cells, though I would not recommend it. The data sheets all say not to solder them, but I figured out how to do it without damaging them at all. It's super tricky though. First time I tried it was in the garage on the cement floor with a fire extinguisher next to me. Now I do them on the workbench without much concern.
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Just aswell i have about 750ml of 99.5% isoproyl , use it to clean most of my vaping gear.....i am a severe OCD person....everything must be clean :yes"
What's really rewarding is when you clean off all the flux from a big assembly and then all the joints are perfectly smooth and shiny. The 63/37 does that.
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Another option with the size of enclosure you have, you could easily fit a dual 18650 batt holder and use dual parallel 18650 batts.
I am gonna take the safer route for my first build, there is just something niggling at the back of my mind to take a safer route for now and once comfortable with doing things then use them Lipo batteries that are on their way to me for another mod.
I like the idea of 2 x 18650 batteries in parallel so am wondering if this will be fine:
Type: 2 batteries parallel
Dimensions: 2 Battery: 75.75mm x 41.25 x 18.75mm (19.75mm high with battery)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18650-Battery-Holders-1-2-3-4-Batteries-Serial-Parallel-Options-UK-Stock-/281199951833?clk_rvr_id=569471018083
If i was to use the above is there any change in wiring up? do i still need to use the fuses, i presume the USB charger will still be ok to use?
Sorry to be a pain :(
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I have been using a cheapo $20 soldering station and I do more cursing than soldering with it lol. I just ordered a Hakko FX-888D the other day as my Christmas present for myself so greatly anticipating it's arrival. I also ordered a T18-B tip to try as well.
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I have been using a cheapo $20 soldering station and I do more cursing than soldering with it lol. I just ordered a Hakko FX-888D the other day as my Christmas present for myself so greatly anticipating it's arrival. I also ordered a T18-B tip to try as well.
You won't be sorry. Money well spent
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You won't be sorry. Money well spent
It's always nice to have quality tools. I don't have a digital thermometer so I'm hoping the station comes calibrated although I guess If it melts solder then it's close enough lol.
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Can anyone confirm this bit from my last post:
I like the idea of 2 x 18650 batteries in parallel so am wondering if this will be fine:
Type: 2 batteries parallel
Dimensions: 2 Battery: 75.75mm x 41.25 x 18.75mm (19.75mm high with battery)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18650-Battery-Holders-1-2-3-4-Batteries-Serial-Parallel-Options-UK-Stock-/281199951833?clk_rvr_id=569471018083
If i was to use the above is there any change in wiring up? do i still need to use the fuses, i presume the USB charger will still be ok to use?
Before i buy it?
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It's always nice to have quality tools. I don't have a digital thermometer so I'm hoping the station comes calibrated although I guess If it melts solder then it's close enough lol.
I picked up an FX888D as a backup station, sometimes you need two irons for disassembley and rework. My primary station is a Weller WESD51 which costs about twice as much. The quality is pretty impressive with the Hakko, though I like the tips better for the Weller station.
The tip the Hakko comes with is good for heavier work like wires, LiPo tabs, and larger components, but if you want to do fine PCB work, you'll need a finer tip. For the Hakko I get the best results for fine work using the T18-BR02 tip. That one has an angle on it which is really handy for densely laid out components. Also, it's short to it doesn't loose much heat at the very end of the tip.
My Hakko was pretty far off on the calibration. I had to adjust it probably 100F. What you can do is use the solder melting point as a scale. 63/37 solder melts at exactly 361F so you can use that as a gauge for calibration.
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I just ordered a Hakko FX-888D the other day as my Christmas present for myself so greatly anticipating it's arrival.
My present was this; http://www.tequipment.net/RigolDS1102E.html Finally going to ditch that archaic analog scope I've been using for years. Though it's like saying goodbye to an old friend. That old thing helped me build a good number of projects. It's coming via ground from the East coast so it's going to take some time to get here.
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Romelee, I think those battery holders would work as long as they have decent contacts and a heavy enough gauge wire. I like 20AWG wire for anything carrying current in a mod such as from the battery and to the atty connector.
Craig, I based my purchase of the Hakko partially on your post/review of it in this forum. All the reviews I've read or watched on youtube rave about it. I don't plan on doing any fine PCB work but it's nice to know the tip selection for that unit is wide ranging. Good point about the solder melting point. Nice scope BTW...isn't the anticipation unbearable? lol
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Romelee, I think those battery holders would work as long as they have decent contacts and a heavy enough gauge wire. I like 20AWG wire for anything carrying current in a mod such as from the battery and to the atty connector.
Thanks for the reply kortt, i suppose if the wires supplied with the battery compartment are poor i could always replace them with my own 20AWG wire i have.
My other concern was do i still use the fuses i have (i presume i do) and that the battery compartment/batteries can still be used with the Evolv USB charger.....sure i read somewhere that the USB charger will have problems with parallel 18650 batteries.
EDIT: I would also like too apologize for all the silly questions, even though they may sound like dumb questions to you's they ain't to me as i am useless when it comes to batteries, making/building things i am quite good at but batteries go right over my head :(
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Nice scope BTW...isn't the anticipation unbearable? lol
Yeah, it can be, though I'm not looking forward to the time I'll have to spend with the user manual. Analog scopes are very easy to use, don't need to RTFM for those.
Li-Ion charger controllers are affected little by the impedance they see from the battery pack they're charging. They simply regulate voltage to a achieve a particular current, doesn't really matter if the impedance is higher or lower due to the number of batteries in parallel or if it's higher because there are fuses inline. So, to answer question, charging should not be a problem if you want to run two or more cells in parallel and fuse them.
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Oh, an afterthought, there is a hardware issue that can pop up when charging multiple parallel cells. Since impedance is lower, there's less voltage drop in charging which means the charger controller has to dissipate more heat for a longer period of time. This is normally not an issue for any charger controller (the chip that does the work) since they have thermal limiting which protects them from working too hard.
In the case of the Evolv USB charger, I've read it can have reliablity issues. I don't know if those have been resolved or not. When charging multiple cells, the controller is going to have to dissiapate more heat for a longer period of time so that could increase the potential for failure if there's any weakness there.
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I would still use the fuse. You will want to be careful if you have to upgrade the wiring on the battery box since the heat of soldering will tend to melt the plastic. Another option might be to get the battery box and then buy some decent battery contacts and replace the ones in the box. I use keystone battery contact in my mods, but I usually build wood boxes so have to build in my battery contacts myself.
The part numbers I use are:
Positive: KEYSTONE 5223 http://canada.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15003&langId=1&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=31C6771&storeId=10196
Negative: KEYSTONE 5201 http://canada.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15003&langId=1&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=31C6766&storeId=10196
I listed the urls just to give you an idea of what they are and how they look.
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Oh, an afterthought, there is a hardware issue that can pop up when charging multiple parallel cells. Since impedance is lower, there's less voltage drop in charging which means the charger controller has to dissipate more heat for a longer period of time. This is normally not an issue for any charger controller (the chip that does the work) since they have thermal limiting which protects them from working too hard.
In the case of the Evolv USB charger, I've read it can have reliablity issues. I don't know if those have been resolved or not. When charging multiple cells, the controller is going to have to dissiapate more heat for a longer period of time so that could increase the potential for failure if there's any weakness there.
Many thanks for the info, would this USB charger be better as i am sure it is the same one Breaktru posted in the picture on this thread: http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electronic-cigarette-mod-parts/other/usb-lithium-charger-pcb-board
?
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That's the Chinese board we've talked about a bit here on the forum. It doesn't have accuracy quite as good as other boards, but otherwise should do the job well enough. You can actually find those boards for a couple bucks on eBay. They are capable of a 1A rate so that's one good thing about them.
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That's the Chinese board we've talked about a bit here on the forum. It doesn't have accuracy quite as good as other boards, but otherwise should do the job well enough. You can actually find those boards for a couple bucks on eBay. They are capable of a 1A rate so that's one good thing about them.
Thanks craig, got one from here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321274258808?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
;cheers;
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Oh noooo you missed Breaks post he had a 5 pack for 2 bucks more posted on that charger..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-5V-Mini-USB-1A-Lithium-Battery-Charging-Board-Charger-Module-IN-4-5V-5-5v-/200915407100?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
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Also the other thing that i've found when buying from china it often helps to use ebay.com (when in the UK) the exchange rates sometimes means you can get the same part from the same seller cheaper using the .com
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It seriously amazes me how those Chinese sellers can list stuff so cheap. If you look up just the USB connector at some place like Mouser or Digikey, it's like a dollar, even in quantity.
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...Another option might be to get the battery box and then buy some decent battery contacts and replace the ones in the box.
Definitely agree with that. The contacts from these batt boxes usually have high contact resistance and cause problems. Keystone contacts are great and I've had zero issues with them.
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If i was to use the above is there any change in wiring up? do i still need to use the fuses, i presume the USB charger will still be ok to use?
Wiring guide:
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/2xbattbox.png)
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Definitely agree with that. The contacts from these batt boxes usually have high contact resistance and cause problems. Keystone contacts are great and I've had zero issues with them.
My add of :2cents:
The aa battery boxes from fasttech have the best contacts I have seen in any similar bat box I was surprised they are really good.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1009/10002604/1280000
not as good as the keystones but beefier and better mounting point than OEM of any other aa box I have.
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I cancelled that battery box holder and ended up getting one from here:
2 cell battery holder: http://www.customduo.co.uk/Pages/batteryholders18650.aspx
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/186502p_zps721e9271.jpg)
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Finally everything is on order and everything apart from that box above has been dispatched scared:
With that box above this (hope it is correct) is how i am gonna set it up:
EDITED with my final battery setup:
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/BatteryDiagram_zpsb0a11a86.png)
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Those battery holders are really nice looking. Having the FR4 backplanes is a huge quality feature.
Wiring looks good, should work great for you.
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That battery box looks pretty cool. Is it modular?
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That battery box looks pretty cool. Is it modular?
Judging by the pictures on their site i think it's modular but the seller looks like they only sell complete sets not individual parts, funny thing the other day they was in stock of everything and now there's not much left to choose from oh_my:
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Welcome to the world of posting part numbers/links and then finding them later out of stock. Been there.
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85% complete :rockin smiley:
As you know i am trying to make the Milo but with a different size box and using parallel 18650 battery case, in the guide it says:
Adhere the back of the DNA board to the batt using clear mounting tape. The top of the DNA board should be ~ ¼" or so down from the top of the batt.
My problem is that because i ain't using Lipo batt's i have nothing to stick the DNA board too, any suggestions?
Cheers
Jason
p.s I fully understand now on what you mean on getting a good Soldering Iron, my crappy one made a easy job into a hard job :(
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Maybe you can take a photo of the insides with the batts in so we can see what it looks like and we can give some advise on mounting the DNA board
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Maybe you can take a photo of the insides with the batts in so we can see what it looks like and we can give some advise on mounting the DNA board
This is how far i have got so far and the only questions is:
How i will mount the DNA display as i ain't using lipo batts i don't have anything to stick it too
How to mount the battery case, i presume Epoxy would be fine
If the DNA20 display does not glow enough when the cover is put (milo mentioned in her guide "I remove the black transparent piece covering the OLED. I use a craft knife and slip it under a corner of the plastic piece then slide the craft knife along the underside of the plastic piece) how easy is this, bit scared to do this?
Just for info the blue plastic cover is not the right size, correct size is on it's way to me, silly me ordered it with round corners :(
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/Overview_zps6524fbfc.jpg)
Cheers all
Jason
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I am assuming that you will NOT remove the batteries being that you are using a USB charger.
Once you insert the batteries you should be able to use a strip of foam adhesive tape across the two cells and stick the back of the board to the tape. Do the same between the display and the DNA board.
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Thanks Breaktru, i completely forgot about the mounting tabs Doh: , had them on order for over two weeks now, sent a mail to the supplier and they are sending them out again as it seems they have been lost in post.
I was wondering about the 510 atty connector, do you seal the bottom of it (inside) with epoxy just in case juice from a atty leaks and goes down the atty connector into the box?
I am in two minds of filling it, the only thing that is stopping me is if i have to de-solder the wires inside for some reason but then i am thinking what is worse, juice getting into the box or just buying a new 510 atty connector and replacing the old one.
Also can Kapton tape be used instead of basic electrical tape.
Hopefully by mid next week i will be able to post a piccy of it complete and stop driving you all mad with questions.
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Also can Kapton tape be used instead of basic electrical tape.
Kapton tape is far superior to electrical tape. It has a much higher tolerance to heat than vinyl tape. In fact, it can be used for solder masking and often is. The stuff is typically much thinner than vinyl tape, but even so, the material has excellent insulation characteristics so it's not a problem.
On thing to consider with cells is that you may want to replace them at some point. The cells in my mods are about as non-removable as you can get, but I still made considerations in the assembly to allow the cell to be replaced at some point. So, you may want to avoid glueing or using high bond two sided tape on the cells.
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Kapton tape is far superior to electrical tape. It has a much higher tolerance to heat than vinyl tape. In fact, it can be used for solder masking and often is. The stuff is typically much thinner than vinyl tape, but even so, the material has excellent insulation characteristics so it's not a problem.
On thing to consider with cells is that you may want to replace them at some point. The cells in my mods are about as non-removable as you can get, but I still made considerations in the assembly to allow the cell to be replaced at some point. So, you may want to avoid glueing or using high bond two sided tape on the cells.
Thanks Craig, with the display i am gonna stick some basic double sided foam tabs, not strong adhesive ones because as you say i will someday need to remove the batts.
With the battery case i am gonna stick it down in place with Epoxy.
Still UN-decided on whether to fill the 510 atty connector with epoxy due to juice leaks into the mod :Thinking:
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I think filling the 510 connector has two schools of thought. If you can improve the connector with a better insulator or do like mamu does with the fiber washer you could get away without filling it. I pretty much only use carto tanks on my devices and I always fill thiem. Before I do though I test them to make sure the connections are good. I learned the hard way about filling the connector and then finding out the connection was bad.
If you are using a lot of different devices which might have varying post depth required you probably don't want to fill the 510 connector so you can pull or adjust the post.
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If you are using a lot of different devices which might have varying post depth required you probably don't want to fill the 510 connector so you can pull or adjust the post.
Good point, that slipped my mind ;cheers;
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Another consideration if you don't fill the connector is what kind of wire you use on the positive center pin. I use solid core 20awg wire and it doesn't have much give so if you needed to pull or sink the post It might cause a problem. If you wanted an adjustable center post in the connector you might want to consider something less rigid like a stranded silicone clad wire.
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I put a piece of cotton in my connector for those rare leaks. I have not caught one drip in the cotton yet. I use everything 510 808 306 every which way on it carts, tanks, rba, rda, etc etc.. It makes a really good seal if you make it make a good seal.. The fiber washer is a godsend that wont leave your shorts exposed and around your ankles .. Like these three guys
(http://www.timeoutchicago.com/sites/timeoutchicago.com/files/imagecache/timeout_492x330/411.wk.NoPantsSubwayRide11.jpg)
moving along nicely romelee
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Looking good, Romelee - you're almost there!
I used to seal the underside of the connector with epoxy, but don't anymore.
As long as the insulator is intact, there won't be any leaks from the connector. I have switches and screws on the top cap of Lexi and was concerned if juice could get inside the case so did a leak test a while back - let it set for several hours and no leaks at all.
(http://www.howder.com/lexitest.jpg)
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Thanks for all the tips ;cheers;
As there is no polarity on the tactile switches does it matter what wire out of the two on the switch goes on the DNA board + or -
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b536/Rome241270/Wiring_zps200460e3.jpg)
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There is no polarity on the switch or switch input
Just make sure you use the correct pins
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Very strange, wired it all up and all worked fine, moved the DNA20 board a bit to the top right of the box and now it won't work.
Everything lights up as normal, up and down change the wattage all ok but the fire button does nothing, won't check atomizer or fire up, the only thing it does do when i press it is make the display go a bit brighter :(
:help:
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If the display get brighter then the fire button is working. You may need to "Reset" the MCU by removing power for a second or three and then re-power. If you can't pullup the batteries, unsolder either the battery neg or pos lead.
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If the display get brighter then the fire button is working. You may need to "Reset" the MCU by removing power for a second or three and then re-power. If you can't pullup the batteries, unsolder either the battery neg or pos lead.
Tried that, took the batteries out for a couple of minutes and put them back in, also checked all connections with a multimeter and all readings seem fine :(
EDIT: The only connection that is not 100% is the USB charger cable which i will fix tomorrow, cannot see how that would effect the firing though.
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Just for info: It was the 510 wire that came loose and all is sorted now, cover should be with me in two days and will post a thank you with pictures of the mod when finished :thankyou: all
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Good to hear, glad it was something simple. :beer-toast:
Can't wait to see the finished mod!
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Glad you found the problem. Now you're a troubleshooter too :laughing:
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Looking good, Romelee - you're almost there!
I used to seal the underside of the connector with epoxy, but don't anymore.
As long as the insulator is intact, there won't be any leaks from the connector. I have switches and screws on the top cap of Lexi and was concerned if juice could get inside the case so did a leak test a while back - let it set for several hours and no leaks at all.
(http://www.howder.com/lexitest.jpg)
What enclosure is this??
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If I remember that's a powerbank enclosure that mamu got and stripped out the innards of - Similar to this empty enclosure http://www.fasttech.com/product/1462503-hp-0127-diy-empty-mobile-power-bank-enclosure
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Should have read this thread sooner, just ordered 6 tactile switches from stealth vape doh!
But after reading through and using the links posted have purchased a few items.
Thanks for the links and advice in here, I now know how to wire up the tactile switches although they are the 300nm I'm sure they will be OK, will look for 200 next time :)