Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Jasen on April 06, 2014, 02:37:44 AM
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Spent the afternoon on Sketchup designing a tube mod, then this evening spent a couple hrs. trying to figure out, on paper, how to cram everything in it, I think it'll fit.
Mrs. Boss said I can't spend anymore money till next payday, so I'll have to wait to get my aluminium tubing and other piece.
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What are you making? Mechanical or regulated?
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I'm building Beaktrus sideXside copper bullet board w/ a manual pot/trimmer.
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Good choice Jasen. I luv breaktru's side x side. At 50W, it's a killer mod. Although I would never go above 10W myself.
Are you also going to make the tubes slide to accept different length batteries?
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Actually I'm doing something along the lines of Mandro's aluminium tub builds, but I can't divulge to much info at this stage, it's top secret you know.
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I've reworked the PTR08100 board a bit to suite my needs. Can someone put a 2nd set of eye's on it for me please.
Batteries will be Panasonic 18650 2900mAh High Drain NCR18650PD
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You can't use a USB charger on Series batteries.
It is not necessary to add a PTC for the 2nd series battery.
I don't see a resistor between Gate and Source of the Mosfet.
If you are reading output voltage and battery voltage, make sure it is a 1S-6S DM and not a 3 wire meter that requires a power source.
Why are you using a 15K fixed resistor?
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Had to many windows open in my head, lost track of where I was, thought you were talking about the resistor between the cap and pin 5. Looked at the touch switch schematic again and see that I missed it.
I'm lost on the voltmeter, I thought this set up read atty V and battery V. How do I wire a 2 wire VM to do this. I had the drawing on the old laptop, but it went poof the night before I figured I should do another back up before it died.
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OK, re read some of my bookmarked threads and also ran across a replay from CraigHB to me about a batt. protection board.
I found some PVC conduit at work yesterday so I made a mock up and discovered there was a little spare room. I do have need for a little flash light at work from time to time, which I usually have to run out to my van to get, and seeing I'll pretty much always have my mob box on me I added a couple superflux LED's I had left over from a past project.
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OK, re read some of my bookmarked threads and also ran across a replay from CraigHB to me about a batt. protection board.
I found some PVC conduit at work yesterday so I made a mock up and discovered there was a little spare room. I do have need for a little flash light at work from time to time, which I usually have to run out to my van to get, and seeing I'll pretty much always have my mob box on me I added a couple superflux LED's I had left over from a past project.
If the 2 Superflux amperage is more than the tact sw 50ma rating then yes use the mosfet.
You have a typo stating 15k mohm. You mean 15k ohm.
If you are using a 1S-6S digital panel meter, you can measure output voltage and battery voltage using a SPDT (On-OFF-On) slide switch.
With the meter facing down, the NEG pin is the first pin on your right. The second pin from right for pos to battery and third pin for pos to output.
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The LED's are 100ohm forward V is 3.2 -max 3.5
So how I have the Vmeter wired won't work? I ask because I have a 2 wire on hand
Specs:
Power supply：don't need the power supply, direct use of the test voltage as a power supply
Measurement range: DC3.0 - 30V
The minimum input: 3.0V
The maximum input: 30V
Operation temperature:-10℃~65℃
Display mode: three 0.36 LED digital tube
Display color: Blue
update rate: about 500 ms/time
Permissible error: 1% (+ / - a word)
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The LED's are 100ohm forward V is 3.2 -max 3.5
So how I have the Vmeter wired won't work? I ask because I have a 2 wire on hand
The Philips SuperFlux LED has a DC Forward Current of 70 mA.
The 1st and 2nd circuit diagram that you posted showed a 3-wire DM. This was my diagram that I posted for a member that needed to know how to wire it.
Yes your 2-wire DM will work fine the way you have it in your last post. I was just mentioning an option on using a 1S-6S in case you had one on hand.
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Thanx, and thank you for the patient with an electronic's moron.
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Well I've rolled the best elements from design 1,2 and 3 into design 4 and after a few day's of staring at the sketchup drawing I think I'm happy with it. Now I can order my switches, brass thumb screw and hit the metal store to pick up some 6061 aluminium tube, textured sheet aluminium and a stick of brass bar stock.
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Between the Fastttech run around on my box (been 6 weeks now), the bill for Obamacare, yada yada yada, my build keeps stalling. I got one of these from OKW
(http://okw-gehaeuse.com/okw-static/product-images/popup_images_nb/A9052209.jpg)
so I'm going to use it, but now I can't find the Keystone battery holder I'd like to use in stock anywhere in North America, so I've got to figure something else out. Maybe 2 single battery holders :Thinking:
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Just ordered all the parts to finally do my build
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Just ordered all the parts to finally do my build
:popcorn:
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You might need another bag of popcorn
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Don't warm up the popcorn popper just yet, but I did get a box from Digikey and Superbright leds today. Still waiting on one from Mouser and a couple other things one of which is coming from China, so sometime next month. Hoping to see my double sided PCB this week so I can start laying things out.
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Almost there :popcorn:
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Got a thimble load of resistors today.
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This showed up today, so let the building begin. $7.50 to the door from a California vendor.
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Getting closer... :rockin smiley: :popcorn:
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Got to work on it a little today. Got the hole cut for the V meter, cut one of the PCB's to size and got the placement of the electronics figured out. Still sorting out battery contact's. Going to pick up a cheap sled, but I don't think it'll work, might have to rebuild it to suit my needs.