Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Adams_Mods on April 06, 2014, 08:10:34 AM
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http://yihiecigar.en.alibaba.com/product/1658885250-221061342/2014_Newest_High_end_Products_YiHi_SX350_30W_Single_Battery_DC_to_DC_Sustain_Subohm_0_2_to_3_0_ohm_5W_to_30W_1_5V_to_9_5V_dna30.html (http://yihiecigar.en.alibaba.com/product/1658885250-221061342/2014_Newest_High_end_Products_YiHi_SX350_30W_Single_Battery_DC_to_DC_Sustain_Subohm_0_2_to_3_0_ohm_5W_to_30W_1_5V_to_9_5V_dna30.html)
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Reviews say its badarse.
It goes down to 3 volts also incorporates a bypass function to use mod as a mechanical..
Upgradeable to 35 Watts
$69US http://vaporjoe.blogspot.com/2014/04/jump-on-it-30-watts-in-aluminum-box-6999.html
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fsLMJ-qJ4iw/U0uRQimW3RI/AAAAAAAAU0w/qz0braOzcqk/s1600/10259457_10203533519320121_964180365_n.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNmelCIDWXU
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If you buy a fake Hana mod, expect junk!
(http://s28.postimg.org/y8evcg659/Chinese_Lie_20_W.jpg)
You will NOT be getting DNA regulated device, you'll be getting a Chinese copy that as of yet has NOT been tested by any end-users.
All of these Hana Mods are pre-orders and nobody knows yet how they'll perform, but if they're anything like the Seneca 30W....which is also made in China, you may as well set fire to $80 cuz you'll have one hellava POS!
As for the YiHai controller, it too is not performing up to par and it's display is not showing the correct voltage according to several beta-testers.
Don't EVER believe what a vendor tells you, no matter how good their reputation is....get the facts from beta-testers cuz they'll be the one's to tell it like it is and have nothing to gain or lose by being honest.
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Gotta agree with ya Times the sx350 screen will not fit that enclosures screen window but yet its being linked advertised as being the chip in the clone hana @69US.
The mod chips sx220-sx350 have been scoped by a few and it is performing as advertised.
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$69 for a custom dna30 enclosure thats billet aluminum thats prewired and batts, not to bad :laughing2:
Vicious ants 120 watt mod is the one that I would buy, its purdy.
ie:: turn the sx350 mod into a mod enclosure channeling a mamu mod tutorial that uses a clear acrylic screen.
(http://www.vapescores.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/1451570_623412087747687_6626571761780581420_n-450x600.jpg)
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The mod chips sx220-sx350 have been scoped by a few and it is performing as advertised.
Ya got a link to the "scoping"?
I'd like to see it for myself.
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ie:: turn the sx350 mod into a mod enclosure channeling a mamu mod tutorial that uses a clear acrylic screen.
Mamu was not the inventor of using an acrylic enclosure or screen, it's been done by many modders.....goes back to the days before the Provari even came into play.
It was used by many modders during the days of the "Evercool" mods. (Murata OKR's & Texas Instruments SIP modules w/LED voltage meters)
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$69 for a custom dna30 enclosure thats billet aluminum thats prewired and batts, not to bad :laughing2:
All the more reason to be leary of what's inside?
Crap batts?
Crap fake DNA?
Billet aluminum? (Doubt it, more like cast.)
I see no machining marks anywhere inside of those Hana clone enclosures. They're very similar to Hammond enclosures.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg.htm (http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg.htm)
And FWIW.....an aluminum enclosure from China can be had for dirt cheap!
You can buy them from an aluminum extrusion factory for next to nothing.
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Ya got a link to the "scoping"?
I'd like to see it for myself.
-- have video
sx-220
Bap has hands on and is testing the sx-350 others have posted its great but no visuals on scope
the only problem reviewed is the batts are showing higher than actual voltage which with shutoff @ approximately 3.2v your batts will be @3.1-2.9v so thats a real no brainer goodie fault..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jxTyMCyo-g
Here David is using the highly accurate ECD meter--
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHQZ5sASurQ
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Mamu was not the inventor of using an acrylic enclosure or screen, it's been done by many modders.....goes back to the days before the Provari even came into play.
It was used by many modders during the days of the "Evercool" mods. (Murata OKR's & Texas Instruments SIP modules w/LED voltage meters)
Where does it say in my post that mamu invented the see-thru mod enclosure, what she did do was make a modding tutorial with it.. :laughing2:
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-- have video
Both of those videos are for the SX200 [20W]. (Sigelei Legend)
Not the same controller as the SX220 [22W] or the SX350 [35W].
These are the controllers in question and I have SERIOUS doubts with the SX350.
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All the more reason to be leary of what's inside?
Crap batts?
Crap fake DNA?
Billet aluminum? (Doubt it, more like cast.)
I see no machining marks anywhere inside of those Hana clone enclosures. They're very similar to Hammond enclosures.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg.htm (http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg.htm)
And FWIW.....an aluminum enclosure from China can be had for dirt cheap!
You can buy them from an aluminum extrusion factory for next to nothing.
Then why haven't you made a mod enclosure like bap and a couple others, to help modders building dna's..
Bap sold quite a bit of his plastic enclosures and the metal SS version cost is $100+US of his enclosure, the printed plastic is $55+.. Even if the board is bad, this is a good deal on a nice enclosure, it could be cheaper and is @$59-- but, you get freebies, a charge board, spring loaded 510, and pre-wired for a dna30--if the bat is crap its not expensive at all to toss in a lipo..lol.. For ~100 you get a great looking mod that you can take and have screened, etched, or engraved..
Hammond boxes are good but only if you have correct tooling equipment. I have seen a ton of misaligned screens and buttons drilled in mods. This is a no brainer.. + you can put the crap board in an enclosure and use it when the dna is charging. :thumbsup:
In a perfect scenario --- Its a huge win for the dna manufacts . They will sell more boards because it is even easier to make a mod..
You may be right on the box enclosure but from this picture its definitely milled. It doesn't matter it still badase. lol
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I7bVZPpf1-8/UzJwktkom-I/AAAAAAAAUj8/rSo18FM45yU/s1600/photo.JPG)
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http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coop-planning-discussion/532844-yihi-sx-350-30w.html#post12881366 (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coop-planning-discussion/532844-yihi-sx-350-30w.html#post12881366)
There are others that confirm my suspicion during their own testing results.
"Sx350 testing bottom feeder done. This is barebones made out of 2 battery holders, some silver plated BeCu contacts, modified 510 to 510 adapter, 6ml bottle, and DSL filter case. No time to test tonight beyond initial vape. First impression is that the voltage reading is off."
The SX220 is inside of the 26650 mod called the Greenleaf Seven-22 and does not have the vibrate function like the Sigelei Legend. But it too isn't as accurate as it claims to be.
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Then why haven't you made a mod enclosure like bap and a couple others, to help modders building dna's..
Who says that I'm not? :laughing2:
How do ya think that I know so much about where to obtain aluminum enclosures....hmmm?
Or for that matter, how I know so much about the fake Chinese DNA copies?
Bap has his designs on Shapeways and not all of them are free.
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Both of those videos are for the SX200 [20W]. (Sigelei Legend)
Not the same controller as the SX220 [22W] or the SX350 [35W].
These are the controllers in question and I have SERIOUS doubts with the SX350.
The sx-200 is the same sx-220 upgraded board, it user defaults to 20 watts but will do 22 watts and buck down to 3 volts.. Did you watch Phils video?
The original sx-220 did not buck 3v and was user capable of being dialed to 22 watts, this board will shoot up to 22 watts to balance the output frequency to give you 20 watts.. The dc frequency wave is tad bit smoother than the dna20 too..
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We've gone down this road already Visus....
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1014.msg11778.html#msg11778 (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1014.msg11778.html#msg11778)
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We've gone down this road already Visus....
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1014.msg11778.html#msg11778 (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1014.msg11778.html#msg11778)
Dude take you meds
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http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coop-planning-discussion/532844-yihi-sx-350-30w.html#post12881366 (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coop-planning-discussion/532844-yihi-sx-350-30w.html#post12881366)
There are others that confirm my suspicion during their own testing results.
"Sx350 testing bottom feeder done. This is barebones made out of 2 battery holders, some silver plated BeCu contacts, modified 510 to 510 adapter, 6ml bottle, and DSL filter case. No time to test tonight beyond initial vape. First impression is that the voltage reading is off."
The SX220 is inside of the 26650 mod called the Greenleaf Seven-22 and does not have the vibrate function like the Sigelei Legend. But it too isn't as accurate as it claims to be.
Disregard everything times has said negative about any of these boards they all are spot on. Matter of fact the SX-350 is working 1000% BETTER THAN THE DNA30 ITS BEEN PUT THROUGH A RIGOROUS TESTING THAT OVERHEATS AND SHUTS DOWN THE DNA. THE TESTER HAD JUST PURCHASED DNA'S AND IS MAD ABOUT IT..
Pbusardo gave the sx-220 thumbs up after scoping it.
The DNA20 clone has also been tested and its a 1:1 DNA20 clone exact. All menu functions are the same as well as having no reverse battery protection.
The sx-220 sx-350 both have reverse protection..
52 bucks for a dna hanna modz clone is hwy robbery to hanna modz but wow they did it..
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007864/1689401-hana-modz-pack-dna-20-style-mod
mini with leather protector belt holder
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007864/1689400
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Took a look at the specs on the SX-350, pretty amazing. Is there a site that shows a bench test on it?
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X0sEthcrdQ
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Thanks, would like to see some close-up shots on the board, both sides.
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Thanks, would like to see some close-up shots on the board, both sides.
The factory covers up a lot of the board with some black goo on the closeups I have seen.
(http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/modding-forum/327118d1397756217-sx-350-build-complete-sx350e.jpg)
Looks like pricing to be around $45usd maybe lower hopefully.
UK vapers have a coop going and its 45 so eventually when fasttech gets it, it should be close or lower than that. my guesstimation.
There's already modz being sold @250usd with dual 26650 in a box mod.
Its a money maker for modders that for sure with only parts count @ box and solder they even give ya hookup wire..
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I built the barebones bottom feeder. My scope is old so it is not currently calibrated but what I found was a very well filtered output with ripple around .15V with a .7 ohm coil at 30W & .05V at 5W, and .075V with a .4 ohm coil at 30W and .025V at 5W. The ripple was an odd sawtooth but was very minimal. I torture tested it with a .4 ohm and a .23 ohm coil at 30W and the atty got hot enough I couldn't hold on to it but the board was just a little above skin temperature.
I have since upgraded the firmware to the 35 watt release but have not had time to test beyond using it in real life. My original firmware must have had a glitch where the battery voltage did not show a change during firing but it does with the new firmware. Oddly enough at idle it still shows the battery voltage a little high as before but correct during firing. Was told by a distributor that YiHi is going to be revising it with the option to use buttons for adjustment. (Although the tilt adjustment becomes second nature after a bit and I find it to be fine and saves wiring and buttons to have to place somewhere) I was wondering what the unused through holes were for and maybe they are what will be used.
I took a look at the firmware update file and it is apparently created with DefuSe so I assume they are using an STM32 32-bit ARM Cortex MCU. Also, the display characters (display during boot and menu items) are in plain ASCII so if there is not a CRC check they should be easily changed with a simple Hex editor. Found that the Hex just before the character string is apparently the size to display the following characters. Holding off on changing anything for now just in case it was to brick it.
All in all it seems to be a winner. Only things I see that I would like addressed is the battery voltage display accuracy and it would be real nice if the display was not potted to the board so there was more flexibility making a mod with it. (Also would make it simple to determine what display driver chipset is being used to further reverse the firmware update to figure out the graphics set)
Anyone have tools to dump the complete flash file from the STM32 via HID? (Wondering if they have the protection bit set)
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Couldn't help myself.
(http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx139/Alexander_Mundy/SX350/20140503_161423_zpscqlspt6y.jpg)
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Looks like the Hex editor worked. Nice going Mundy
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Yes, on the menu items but the logo display is not straight ASCII like I thought. I am looking for patterns in the image that would be similar to the logo but it is going to take awhile checking each X/Y possibility and also turning it 90 degrees. If I only knew what driver chip it was............
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Found the boot images and also the character images pulling an all nighter because I just couldn't let it beat me. :thumbsup:
They are not in a standard format I have seen before. Full page addressing is 8 bits vertical from most significant bit down to least with 0 for dark pixel and 1 for lit pixel, then advance 1 column to the right until the end of that row. Advance down 1 row of 8 to the 9th pixel and go back to the first column but on this row it is inverted from least significant bit to most. Repeat 3 times for a total of 6 rows of 8 bits vertical and 64 columns horizontal. Individual characters are treated the same, only using 2 rows of 8 bits each. They are not using any character set the driver chip might or might not have and are building each screen bitwise with all the characters from the flash image.
Anyone seen that addressing pattern for a display before? I am not that well versed in anything on the market in the last 20 years since I have been out of the scene for that long.
Going to see about writing a program this weekend to convert a BMP to the binaries required.
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Well that pretty much went right over my head. But way to stick to it and sort it out :)
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I don't know if you'll find anyone here who can tell you the compiler or even the specific MCU they're using on that. If you knew, you might be able to decompile the program and do whatever you wanted without risk of bricking the thing.
It's pretty tricky going in there with a hex editor. If you overwrite an instruction in the bootloader then install the program, you won't be able to salvage the board. It's risky, not at all like modifying a regular computer program.
Looks like you have it worked out to some extent though. That's always cool when it's possible to customize things.
One thing to keep in mind is the code libraries for MCUs are fairly device dependent and you're looking at things in raw machine code. Things can vary quite a bit from one device to the next.
I don't think I could recognize the binary patterns even on the stuff I write in assembly, let alone C which I'm sure they're using on that one. When I do look at the machine code for my own stuff, my compiler lines it up with the written code, otherwise it would just look like a bunch of random hex characters to me.
I find it amazing people can actually hack programs with a hex editor, always looks like gibberish to me.
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Just wondering if anyone had seen that particular addressing technique for graphics display. I don't intend on altering anything except the graphics areas used. I am lucky they didn't use a CRC routine to make altering any of the code impossible without bricking it.
As far as binary goes, I've always had the knack. I still see binary whole kind of like a good morse code guy hears complete words instead of individual letters. I built my first computers at component level. (You couldn't buy anything at consumer level unless you were really rich, think PDP10 or S370) So I programed in machine language by toggle switch input and read the code by individual led display. I learned the 4004 instruction set and at one time I knew the complete Z80 instruction set in binary and could write and read a program in binary. (You had to) 16 bit and then 32 bit architecture came out and it was exponentially harder to do that way. I went to assembler then higher language compilers and got out of the hobby mainstream since it wasn't as fun and anyone could buy an assembled computer and code in higher language. In other words I wasn't one of the few special geeks anymore.
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Hello all, Im new to this forum but not new to vaping and circuitry so this is a nice combo for me. lol
I am also interested in changing the Boot Logo of this SX350, the idea i had was fairly simple but i cannot program at all. :wallbash:
The program would be simple, show a grid layout of the SX350 screen in pixels. You would click on the pixel to either light it up or turn it off. A pixel with the value of "on" would be a value of "1" per the post from Mundy. This would leave us endless options without having to attempt to write the code and install, only to realize one pixel is off and re write the whole thing.
Mundy hopefully you can throw some suggestions out to make this idea a bit more streamline. i have not received my SX350 yet but as soon as i do i will be messing with it.
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Trying out the new chip, thanks to Mamu tutorial. Works well.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/14016439218_5e088bca4a.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/44757345@N03/14016439218/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/44757345@N03/14016439218/) by MKJurassic (https://www.flickr.com/people/44757345@N03/), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/14200598112_49f5a81c3d.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/44757345@N03/14200598112/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/44757345@N03/14200598112/) by MKJurassic (https://www.flickr.com/people/44757345@N03/), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14200601562_d27cf8fd28.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/44757345@N03/14200601562/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/44757345@N03/14200601562/) by MKJurassic (https://www.flickr.com/people/44757345@N03/), on Flickr
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Finished the vital subroutines but need to clean up the code and the GUI.
Also on the " ' things to do" list:
Add subroutines to view and change the internal alphanumeric character set.
Add subroutines to change the internal graphics. (like the lock symbol, etc)
Bottom line though is.................it works.
Didn't see a way to put video on here, so here is a GIF
(http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx139/Alexander_Mundy/1400536958986_zpseumch1ox.gif)
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Finished the vital subroutines but need to clean up the code and the GUI.
Also on the " ' things to do" list:
Add subroutines to view and change the internal alphanumeric character set.
Add subroutines to change the internal graphics. (like the lock symbol, etc)
Bottom line though is.................it works.
Didn't see a way to put video on here, so here is a GIF
Great Alex. Cool. Glad you got it down.
Using the button "Insert Hyperlinks" and you type in the address for the video between the hyperlinks, It should display the video.
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Thanks, I was trying to make it too complicated!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI5KyHxp5F4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI5KyHxp5F4)
Rudimentary but functional
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGSuLljKhz8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGSuLljKhz8)
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I clicked on the video and now on my screen it says, all your bases belong mundy lol
bravo thats some tinkering dynamite matrix type level..
:thumbsup:
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That's some awesome hacking, black hats off to you.
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I clicked on the video and now on my screen it says, all your bases belong mundy lol
bravo thats some tinkering dynamite matrix type level..
:thumbsup:
That's some awesome hacking, black hats off to you.
How that makes my day. :thankyou:
Haven't heard that in 25 years or so.
I have been out of the game for too long.
Maybe I'll get out my trash80 to celebrate. 8)
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:rockin smiley:
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Just got my very own SX350 today and have been planning my build.
Going for a dual parallel 18650 layout using this box - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121332758319?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Going to change the slot in section at one end of the box to be a battery door with hinges and a simple latch.
I am going to replace the stock switch with a vandal switch, obviously have the USB available on the outside and I'm going to cover the facing sections of the box with carbon vinyl.
Also going to make my own SS 510 connection with sealed sprung centre post (will just initially use a standard 510 though since I do not have a lathe or fancy tools so it will take time to fabricate my own 510).
I have to say in my initial little tests to make sure it all worked I am really impressed with this chipset and I am glad I bought it instead of a DNA30.
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Just got my very own SX350 today and have been planning my build.
Going for a dual parallel 18650 layout using this box - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121332758319?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Going to change the slot in section at one end of the box to be a battery door with hinges and a simple latch.
I am going to replace the stock switch with a vandal switch, obviously have the USB available on the outside and I'm going to cover the facing sections of the box with carbon vinyl.
Also going to make my own SS 510 connection with sealed sprung centre post (will just initially use a standard 510 though since I do not have a lathe or fancy tools so it will take time to fabricate my own 510).
I have to say in my initial little tests to make sure it all worked I am really impressed with this chipset and I am glad I bought it instead of a DNA30.
Would luv to see it when completed. Sounds interesting.
I got a couple of those enclosures as a free sample a couple of years ago and used it for an MCU DNA 12 mod. I wasn't particularly thrilled with the enclosure but maybe it will work out better for you. I also used carbon vinyl as an after thought a week later.
That's great, making your own SS 510 connector :rockin smiley:
I only have a partial view of the enclosure w/ the vinyl because I scraped the box for a different one...........
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/dna_charger2.jpg)
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Construction of my mod should begin later today - I am going to call it The Crum-Dubh !
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/vereybowring/slideshow/Crum%20Dubh%20parts (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/vereybowring/slideshow/Crum%20Dubh%20parts)
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Got this in email from YiHi.
Doesn't seem to be available just yet, but would be a real topper.
(http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx139/Alexander_Mundy/SX350/WOW_zps49fe05d0.jpg)
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That will hold its own. Very attractive mod, thats the way China woot no tomtrickery with cloning.
I can use as persuasion some of these women who chase me when I leave out the front door with that.
Interesting vaping developments ahead of the bigs;
Provari is supposed to have a new mod coming out soon, sneak peek when pbusardo went to their factory
Evolv is also rumored to have something new
Joytech has the evic supreme
Almost as good as collecting r/c cars and I had 8 cars $$$$$ two of same chassis cause upgrades in new model RS4's ten bodys, 2 custom pro painted, left with one in divorce, no bodies Oh yeah one traxxas truck :laughing2: Vape hobby so much cheaper :laughing:
The vaping world is changing because of mechs, mods, and Evolv :thumbsup:
Still cannot believe I am comfortably vaping 24 watts sometimes 30+..
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ya if you toss that thing I may beat down some chicks for it lol. until the nails come out then I'm gone. wondering where to get a sx350 for cheap. like around 60 bucks if possible maybe a little more. also on the whole hana mods clone, someone was bound to do it since they're overcharging so much. ive seen then from 265-400 bucks. lets do some math real quick and this isn't counting wholesale prices they can get. $50 chipset + $2.50 for 3x buttons + $10 battery + $6 510 connector = $68.50 so there getting all that for about $50 or less. now lets divide retail cost of machine by 3 to account for 300% profit. 265/3 = 87.66. so they are charging at wholesale prices about 37.66 for that case and you probably have to order more than 200 of them. or you the consumer about 210 for the case. pretty crappy if you ask me. I'm surprised someone doesn't make a clone with the same dna 30 for 130 or so. or just the case for 40 bucks or something. I personally refuse to spend over $100. so that's why im here in the diy forums trying to find info on where to get stuff. besides all that the sx350 blows the pants off dna 30 IMO. which makes the whole hana lineup a dead dinosaur. one thing I do want to see from yihi is a firmware update where you can adjust the watts like my evic where you can say fire up your coils at a higher wattage for .5-1second and then drop the wattage to where you like it, then trail off the wattage at the end of you hit. I have found this gives me better flavor and I think its very tech. I think its the way these mods should be going not just more watts. 30 watts is fine by me, I don't really plan on going over 18 or 20. then again I haven't been able to go sub ohm because of my shitty evic so lolz to me. I have found it can run 1.3 ohm instead of the rated 1.5. but if you put a 1.2 ohm sucker in there she don't like it. she can still be used a an overpriced ohm meter though =).
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ya if you toss that thing I may beat down some chicks for it lol. until the nails come out then I'm gone. wondering where to get a sx350 for cheap. like around 60 bucks if possible maybe a little more. also on the whole hana mods clone, someone was bound to do it since they're overcharging so much. ive seen then from 265-400 bucks. lets do some math real quick and this isn't counting wholesale prices they can get. $50 chipset + $2.50 for 3x buttons + $10 battery + $6 510 connector = $68.50 so there getting all that for about $50 or less. now lets divide retail cost of machine by 3 to account for 300% profit. 265/3 = 87.66. so they are charging at wholesale prices about 37.66 for that case and you probably have to order more than 200 of them. or you the consumer about 210 for the case. pretty crappy if you ask me. I'm surprised someone doesn't make a clone with the same dna 30 for 130 or so. or just the case for 40 bucks or something. I personally refuse to spend over $100. so that's why im here in the diy forums trying to find info on where to get stuff. besides all that the sx350 blows the pants off dna 30 IMO. which makes the whole hana lineup a dead dinosaur. one thing I do want to see from yihi is a firmware update where you can adjust the watts like my evic where you can say fire up your coils at a higher wattage for .5-1second and then drop the wattage to where you like it, then trail off the wattage at the end of you hit. I have found this gives me better flavor and I think its very tech. I think its the way these mods should be going not just more watts. 30 watts is fine by me, I don't really plan on going over 18 or 20. then again I haven't been able to go sub ohm because of my shitty evic so lolz to me. I have found it can run 1.3 ohm instead of the rated 1.5. but if you put a 1.2 ohm sucker in there she don't like it. she can still be used a an overpriced ohm meter though =).
www.varitube.com is where you can get this chip. Very fast shipping.
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CHIP+ (http://atozvaporworld.com/products/diy-parts-kits/sx350-diy-30-watt-chip-kit-upgrade-to-35-watts-complete-diy-solution)
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Thanks, I was trying to make it too complicated!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI5KyHxp5F4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI5KyHxp5F4)
Rudimentary but functional
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGSuLljKhz8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGSuLljKhz8)
are you going to make the program public?
cos thats pretty damn cool and im building a SX350 box right now ;)
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I am not releasing it into the wild.
There are several reasons, but 2 stand out.
1) Being blamed if someone bricks their board.
2) There have been a few boards doing sporatic things after factory upgrade. A YiHi distributor contacted me to inquire if anyone had it. Him and I discussed the ramifications of warranty integrity if it was in the wild. I agreed that it would make his ability to warranty with the factory (and thus to all customers) much more complicated.
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Thinking of ordering one just to hack the code on it lol :P
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Seems someone else is has powerful hackfu :thumbsup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjMy3S2FKE0
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xXXKEmGpFaI/U6wfXQ89XnI/AAAAAAABLP0/e1c1Txyg2cc/s800/20140626_160527.jpg)
pm if you have sx350 chip, i might send 50w firmware...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oQLXC-Z-88
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I wondered if anyone did real time testing after the firmware upgrade.
Cool jesi. Thanks for sharing.
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Awesome Jes,
The just released a new 100 watt board haha goonies
http://www.yihiecigar.com/products_info/YiHiEcigar-SX330-V3-100W-New-Vapor-Chip-270814.html
(http://www.yihiecigar.com/uploadfile/y3/yihiecigar5183/product/yihiecigar-sx330-v3-100w/YiHiEcigar-SX330-V3-100W-New-Vapor-Chip-1403709123-0.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g2MvMk5zC6g/U6vMKOU1g4I/AAAAAAAAWD8/fuax6xrTMN8/s1600/Cdfsdfsdfpture.JPG)
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There is some details in my vid, when opened in youtube.
Anyway, friend with scope (or something better what i have :) ) did get 51w at 0.3ohm.
yihi vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-WOEOcSKRY
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Excuse the french but ho lee schmidt did I just see 102watts and it still was climbing, I did didn't I. Then fired at 100watts.. That was some hella research and dominating high wattage industry awesome.. :laughing2: :thumbsup:
Whoa wow That chip is badarse
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Yes, Yihiecigar chips are great! <3
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"Couple" beers later, diy mod:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/crwcb5utqadoxqt/AAAcoqZaDbH4WV_OyjPANmdna
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Thats what I like about the sx 350, simplicity meets tech.
Awesome mod but the holes not crooked -- more beer. :laughing2: :thumbsup:
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:D :D :D
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There is some details in my vid, when opened in youtube.
Anyway, friend with scope (or something better what i have :) ) did get 51w at 0.3ohm.
yihi vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-WOEOcSKRY
Looks like their running series cells on the ~100W (note the math doesn't work out with the display pretty much at each test point Doh:)
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The math is spot on your assuming .2R not .242R
:thumbsup:
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The math is spot on your assuming .2R not .242R
:thumbsup:
‘scuze me…… You best check your math Visus - I don’t normally error in equations I’ve been using for 40+ years……
V2/Ohms=W
W = [sqrt(P*Ohms)] (Can’t get the square root symbol to over score Ohms!!)
Etc., Etc., Etc.........
Now therefore:
1st Set (screen) – 5 watts DOES NOT = (1.11)2/.2! (1.11)2/.2 = 6.1506W, 5W@.2ohms = 1V
1st Set (meters) 1.1747V@5.09A = ~5.98W (or VA)
2ND Set (screen)– 50W DOES NOT = (3.53)2/.2! (3.53)2/.2 = 62.3045W, 50W@.2ohms = 3.16V
2st Set (meters) ~3.6149V@~15.46 = ~55.89W (or VA)
3rd set - 100 DOES NOT = (5)2/.2! (5)2/.2 = 125W, 100W@.2ohms = 4.47V
At 100w They measure ~5.10V @ ~21.046A which should give you ~107w
Either way you calculate it everything is off.
(edited cuz this forum does not take symbols -that I know of :( )
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The 50w upgrade has not been released yet. It's a test version and Jesi you should not be releasing it.
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P.S. Even at .242 They are off.......
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If you guys want more accurate information on this chip, check out
www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-suppliers-forum/559302-yihi-sx350-35w-chip-varitube-new-post.html (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-suppliers-forum/559302-yihi-sx350-35w-chip-varitube-new-post.html)
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Hmmm..... what it (the video) does prove (if they are using say - Kanthal A-1 VS an electronic load) That resistance DOES, in fact, increase with temperature......
I do have to say -- Great job on their part in achieving what they've done in such a small footprint :) They just need to do a better job at conveying data to the user via the screen.
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Hmmm..... what it (the video) does prove (if they are using say - Kanthal A-1 VS an electronic load) That resistance DOES, in fact, increase with temperature......
I do have to say -- Great job on their part in achieving what they've done in such a small footprint :) They just need to do a better job at conveying data to the user via the screen.
Bingo was his name o -- ok the watt meter is slightly off Im getting 54 watts at 50watts. But @ 100 watts it was spot on ~.242 so my mistake on blanket statement
lol
your excused :laughing2:
I used a calculator no time for fancy equations.. RFOL its not exactly a fluke or 300 dollar DMM but for what it is its spot freakin on.. :wave:
Its really is awesome board..
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The 50w upgrade has not been released yet. It's a test version and Jesi you should not be releasing it.
I have permission from factory, that i can share 50w files.
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update is now available directly
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removed
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update is now available directly
Same file, same features, same bugs.
edit, it is not a bug when set 50w and and display shows 36.1 without atty.
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I am not releasing it into the wild.
There are several reasons, but 2 stand out.
1) Being blamed if someone bricks their board.
2) There have been a few boards doing sporatic things after factory upgrade. A YiHi distributor contacted me to inquire if anyone had it. Him and I discussed the ramifications of warranty integrity if it was in the wild. I agreed that it would make his ability to warranty with the factory (and thus to all customers) much more complicated.
Do you know what sporadic things the boards are doing by any chance?
I have one of the original run and my PC no longer detects the chip and I can't upgrade from 35 to 50.
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Do you know what sporadic things the boards are doing by any chance?
I have one of the original run and my PC no longer detects the chip and I can't upgrade from 35 to 50.
Even with the 50watt upgrade I have to pull the battery to have the SX350 recognized by my PC. I thought that was revised in the 35watt upgrade, but at the 50watt revision I have to pull the battery first. Embarrassed to say I screwed with it for an hour before pulling the battery. Once the battery was pulled, I plugged it in to USB and it was recognized instantly by Windows 8.1.
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Finally got my SX350 stuffed into a Cloupor DNA30 box and it's working really well, much more usable for me than a DNA board (real or cloned). I love the fact that I can vape a Nautilus or Aerotank with stock coils at 9 or 10watts and have it regulated since the SX350 can buck and boost. This was sadly lacking on the DNA20/30. Here are couple of things I noticed with this chip.
1) I wired up/down switches to the board since I was using a Cloupor box and it already had holes for the switches, but I was surprised the switches do not work in the system menus. You have to use the gravity sensor for changes, buttons are disabled. The buttons work at the firing screen to adjust watts up/down, but that's all the buttons appear to do. Since I didn't even try this board without buttons, does the wattage adjust on the firing screen with the gravity sensor? I would like to see the buttons enabled in the system menu also in a future revision if it is possible.
2) Soldering the button switches was a bitch due to the black goop covering the chips kept trying to run onto the solder pads. Had to put the board vertical with the solder pads on top to keep goop migration from swamping the pads. Also had to scrape the soldermask from the pads before soldering the wires.
3) With the 50watt upgrade the battery voltage seems to be reading correctly. I received the board with the 30watt s/w revision and 4.2v read 4.3 when not firing. After the 50watt upgrade it reads 4.2 as 4.2.
4) Moved the negative wire to the reverse battery protection location, but really wish YiHi had put longer wires on both the pos and neg. Would prefer to cut to size rather than have to resolder leads to the board. Not a big deal since I had to move the neg wire anyway, but would be nice.
5) Would like to see a 3rd level of acceleration on the wattage change speed. This is much more significant an issue when at 5~50watts than it was at 5~30, and will be a bigger issue as the updates keep the wattage going higher. I know I can always set presets and go into the system menu and pick a preset, but I would still rather see a 3rd acceleration setting.
Overall I am very pleased with this chip and think Evolve would do well to take note of a few of the features this chip has. The ability to regulate below 4v is a killer feature for me. I do vape my RDAs much higher, but I use simple tanks during the day and really appreciate being able to regulate to a voltage that doesn't tend to burn stock tank wicks.
Now that I have my first mod complete, minus a JWrap, it's time to try something a bit more original. Thanks to all the help I've been given by many here while I've been in lurk mode pouring through all the information on this site.
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Dooyou have a pic of how it looks in that box? I was thinking about the same mod but didn't know how it would work out with the dna cutout.
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I am not releasing it into the wild.
There are several reasons, but 2 stand out.
1) Being blamed if someone bricks their board.
2) There have been a few boards doing sporatic things after factory upgrade. A YiHi distributor contacted me to inquire if anyone had it. Him and I discussed the ramifications of warranty integrity if it was in the wild. I agreed that it would make his ability to warranty with the factory (and thus to all customers) much more complicated.
Do you know what sporadic things the boards are doing by any chance?
I have one of the original run and my PC no longer detects the chip and I can't upgrade from 35 to 50.
The board(s) in question I mention in my original post were some of the first boards made and wouldn't work and gave spastic display with the factory 35W upgrade. I was contacted by the USA YiHi distributor as to whether I had provided any modified upgrade files or the means to do so to anyone. I reassured him I had not (at that time I had not) and that I was aware of whom he was talking about since I had already been in conversation with his customer and my forum friend about his problem. It was a warranty issue with the hardware and was taken care of by the YiHi distributor. Thinking about his difficulty of being able to determine if a board was truly defective or if a modified upgrade file had whacked the bootloader was the final determination for me for not releasing my software. I have provided some files to a few modders that I modified and tested both on the PC and on one of my own SX350 boards before I gave them the files.
toons mil on YouTube drew my attention because he was on the right track and had written software to do the same thing but lacked the final bit of information to be able to load it. Since he had reverse engineered the formats and spent the time to write his software I felt compelled to help a fellow out and provided that final bit of information. He has subsequently made his software available for download which you can find the link if you wish in his comments on YouTube. Note that I have not had time to test his software nor did I have any involvement in coding it. I just got back from vacation and am now swamped with estimates for the contracting company I own so I simply do not have the time to look into it.
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Dooyou have a pic of how it looks in that box? I was thinking about the same mod but didn't know how it would work out with the dna cutout.
The board fit really well in the Cloupor box after removing the innards. It's easiest to remove the switches to get the board in, but it drops right in the electronics side without any modification with no room to spare. The cutout for the screen I did with a machine shop in a box (Dremel) and some small files. I did a bit of a hack job on it, but it works. I cutout a spare piece of acrylic and glued it in the cutout. I replaced switches, battery sled, 510 (with FDV). Didn't need to replace these parts, just wanted to. I added wires for the up/down switches and moved the batt neg to the protected solder pad. Not as pretty as some, but works great. Sorry about the pics from my phone, but it's all I got right now and I don't have a cloud source available for the pics so I can only upload as attachments.
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That looks awesome
for your window theres a trick you can do so it will not show cut marks use a lighter along it and it will go back clear. Practice on a scrap piece its really cool ya wont see the edge.
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I didn't know that rtick Visus, thanks! I was thinking or redoing it and putting a thin acrylic sheet on the inside between the cutout and screen, but I might try your trick first.
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Yeah it was a cool learner, heres where I learned it.
Go to 4:37 or watch the whole vid very cool vid.. He uses a map torch propane is too hot, a lighter is a rudimentary map torch works well on thinset..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps
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Cool stuff. Does that work on polycarbonate as well. It's softer so it's not as brittle, better drop tolerance, scratches easy though. I thought about making a mod enclosure with polycarbonate at one point. Be pretty cool to use a clear tinted material. A see through enclosure would be kinda neat.
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Congrats Drone :beer-toast:
Looking good
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Douh!
I got order for mod what has real long battery life...
So, there is 12800mah worth of lipos.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MUHdK4yjsJo/U_OLpDXV3ZI/AAAAAAABRpc/VM1uCYVTn5A/s800/20140819_203837.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oe4lYZOgG98/U_OHX4mfp8I/AAAAAAABRoI/RgRgWrKDLPI/s800/20140819_202020.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TrwDoXFSHT0/U_OKGWlL0jI/AAAAAAABRow/ymG3LSB_XVQ/s800/20140819_202507.jpg)
It can be quick charged with heavy duty charger at 26amps, ofc there is usb charger in back.
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70 watts min should be standard..
Yihi isn't messing around..sx350 v.250
250 watts whoa
(http://china.yeskey.com/uploadfile/content/2014/201410/20141014220944_30236.png)
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higher Watts should just basically be constructed with more powerful MOSFETs and a high-Amp Inductor with a PCB that can support the Amps...
and maybe some other stuff that i dont know haha since i still failed in developing my own Booster circuit :(
anyway, cant wait to see YiHi's solution on temperature controls but i'm really not sure with that huge TFT lol
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Batteries too, that power has to come from somewhere. You would need at least three 30A batteries in series to support that much power output and then you're still taking them to the limit.
With the size of that display and three 18650s, you're talking a pretty large mod.
Didn't take long for them to copy Evolv's temperature control idea, I figured someone would but that was fast.
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Batteries too, that power has to come from somewhere. You would need at least three 30A batteries in series to support that much power output and then you're still taking them to the limit.
With the size of that display and three 18650s, you're talking a pretty large mod.
Didn't take long for them to copy Evolv's temperature control idea, I figured someone would but that was fast.
Craig cannot be sure it's cloning Evolv cause the guy who makes the GG has been publically building his since 2012 and also the vuse analog like e cig does some kind of limiting before burnt wick as well. Vuse is the 1st one out with this type tech, RJ reynolds hate em or not did their research well..
This is what Evolv should have done IMO hit us with power not just temp control @ 23 amps with both wires and turn that dial up to 100+watts lol..
But what do I know they have have been successful on every endeavor thus far.
I love that new screen on this mod but whoaa huge esp if choose @4.3" lol
@ 12v 250 watts .5ohm its @ 20 amps one vtc could handle that, no?
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You are confusing output amps with input amps visus. 250w from a near dead battery would require around 80 amps
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You are confusing output amps with input amps visus. 250w from a near dead battery would require around 80 amps
No not at all
@ 12v with their boast of 96% eff (doubtful but who knows)on this booster it would not be 80 amps..
even though it says 250 watts, they most certainly are rating it for a very small margin of use
Yes it will do upwards of 250 watts but only with a .09ohm coil @ 12v for example..
This has been commonplace on a lot of recent new boards out of China they do hit the stated rate but only at xx ohms...
whats nice is they have started locking out watts or volts where that coil wont go so you know right away..
the istick is a great example of that if you have a 1 ohm coil it will hit 20 watts
2 ohm coil and it will hit 15 watts but it wont let you go to 20 watts using the 2 ohm coil it stops at 15 watts..
meh
I wish they posted their data sheets raged:
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I picked up a 3D printer about a month ago and decided to design and print a mod using the SX350. It's very small and fits the hand great. Inside it has mounting locations for the SX350 (no glue needed, press fit in the mount) and indexing pads for the Keystone battery holder and USB charging board. Design was difficult for me using 123D Design for the first time, but after printing the parts index right in and the mod builds in about 15 minutes. I'm liking it so far. Here's a couple pics.
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Craig cannot be sure it's cloning Evolv cause the guy who makes the GG has been publically building his since 2012 and also the vuse analog like e cig does some kind of limiting before burnt wick as well.
Well, I know nothing about the Vuse or the GG. I have no idea about temperature control with those. I had assumed the temperature control used by the DNA40 was an original idea by Evolv. If someone else has done this already, then I'm surprised I've never seen it discussed on the forum here, or the other e-cig forum I visit.
Nice print job BTW on that mod there Drone.
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That is a cool sx mod like the mag door
woot 3d
Well, I know nothing about the Vuse or the GG. I have no idea about temperature control with those. I had assumed the temperature control used by the DNA40 was an original idea by Evolv. If someone else has done this already, then I'm surprised I've never seen it discussed on the forum here, or the other e-cig forum I visit.
Nice print job BTW on that mod there Drone.
The GG VIR is discussed on the forum ya dont go to lol..
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/611396-vir-official.html
The Vuse claim to fame is that it will never give you a dry hit regardless of how you vape it.. I do not know how they do it but its also advertised as,
The world's smartest e cigarette:
VUSE is the only e-Cigarette that finally delivers a satisfying and great tasting vapor experience combined with consistent and reliable performance.
Designed and assembled in the USA by tobacco experts R.J. Reynolds tobacco company, VUSE brings 100 years of tobacco expertise to the future of vapor.
Found it:
Why is it called a “Digital Vapor Cigarette?”
VUSE is the world’s most advanced e-cigarette and the first e-cigarette designed with Smart Technology.
The VUSE Digital Vapor Cigarette contains a VaporDelivery Processor that uses algorithms in the same
way a computer does, therefore it is “digital.” The VaporDelivery Processor in the PowerUnit, working
with the SmartMemory™ microchip in the Cartridge, monitors and adjusts the power and heat delivered
to the Cartridge up to 2,000 times a second, ensuring consistently satisfying puffs.
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I picked up a 3D printer about a month ago and decided to design and print a mod using the SX350. It's very small and fits the hand great. Inside it has mounting locations for the SX350 (no glue needed, press fit in the mount) and indexing pads for the Keystone battery holder and USB charging board. Design was difficult for me using 123D Design for the first time, but after printing the parts index right in and the mod builds in about 15 minutes. I'm liking it so far. Here's a couple pics.
Very nice Drone. Great job
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Reynolds tobacco company, VUSE brings 100 years of tobacco expertise to the future of vapor.
R.J. Reynolds, I trust what they say about as far as I can throw a house.
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(http://wellmedicated.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/14.jpg)(http://wellmedicated.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/43.jpg)
More good ads here: http://wellmedicated.com/40-gorgeous-vintage-tobacco-advertisements/ (http://wellmedicated.com/40-gorgeous-vintage-tobacco-advertisements/)
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Was kinda looking out for evolv they have given us goodies across these past few years I know they are blown away by their suddenly success lol almost as good as facebook but better they dont spy on a mofo.
Yeah ol rj a sit back let then sell and then wham...
It's only biznuss lol...
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Hey Break
Now I wanna try old golds
jus great lol
"perfect harmony of fine tobaccos"
:thumbsup:
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Makes me want to light up
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I looked at those adds. Those old time adds crack me up, they were so dorky back then. They'd make up anything to sell a product.
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They have every sin, every freud, drug category covered, yeah they had to hit fast and hard for the page flip lol.
Being digital really brings it all out.
Banned from tv, lol no wonder
We had a project in H.S. psychology to find Freudian ads and what we all found was blowing our teacher away. It was her first and last time probably asking such an assignment.. :laughing2:
My find was ice cubes that were not ice cubes. lol I had a whole stack, so did many others my Dad got playboy but thats not where the golden finds were, ladies catalogs had the serious gay and pedo..
Like old gold in this post, doggystyle with the finish, cause everyone who smokes after the finish, yeah gonna light up lol.. Psychology was an awesome class..
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Batteries too, that power has to come from somewhere. You would need at least three 30A batteries in series to support that much power output and then you're still taking them to the limit.
Didn't take long for them to copy Evolv's temperature control idea, I figured someone would but that was fast.
how do you estimate or calculate it would require at least 3 batteries? it should be true though since the SX350 100Watt upgrade already requires 2 series batteries and the Raptor 60A 300W requires 3 series batteries.
is Evolv's idea basically based on thermocouple concept? without using thermoK wires but instead with NI200 coil where the resistance coil changes with temperature which they monitor that relationship for accurate temperature calculation.
did a little reading, if i'm not mistaken, the principle should be based on the Resistance Temperature Detector (RTD). basically from what i understands is NI200 is one of the metals that has a known "temperature coefficient". their resistance increases with temperature. DNA40 constantly monitors the change of resistance to estimate the coil temperature. seems like it will be a challenge to properly set a DNA40 but it should be worth it once we get the hang of it
i'm thinking to play around with the temperature monitoring using a MAX6675, but since that part gives digital output would love to find other IC that gives linear voltage output.
MAX31865 should be more suitable with the new information i just found out lol, would be better if there's any IC that is specifically for Nickel material.
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how do you estimate or calculate it would require at least 3 batteries? it should be true though since the SX350 100Watt upgrade already requires 2 series batteries and the Raptor 60A 300W requires 3 series batteries.
You have to look at maximal output at minimal battery voltage for a worst case. You always have to do that in electronics, look at things at the limits to make sure you have good tolerances. For a 250W output you're going to need as much as 270W input to cover regulator losses. With a minimal cell voltage at 3V and three running in series, that's 270W divided by 9V for 30A from the battery.
If you don't actually need 250W output which is pretty ridiculous anyway, you could run a couple series cells for a limit of 180W, but there's a safety issue with that. If the regulator can put out 250W without flagging an overload, then you could potentially overload the cells. For example, if the output were to run up to the limit due to an atomizer fault.
You really do have to be careful with Li-Ion batteries about overloading them. People have been injured when batteries fail and it has happened a number of times.
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So with it being only a 20amp @ 2**watts the batts still have cover the wattage ?
I remember a post you made before on this but was thinking since 12v @ low ohm needing 20 that would cover.
A 180 watt mod just hit fastech its a3batts mod.
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Any Li-Ion battery has to be able to cover the limits of the regulator. Conversely, any regulator has to shut down when demand exceeds the capability of the battery. You need a battery capable of handling the maximal demand the regulator will allow and you need a regulator that does not allow a demand greater than the battery can support.
For batteries, limits are always in terms of amperage. For regulators, limits are in terms of power. So, you have to arrive at a maximal allowed power input for the regulator and work back to battery demand in terms of amperage.
For example, worst case supply with two series cells is 6V, assuming there is some mechanism to disallow operation when cell voltage drops below that. If there's a 20A limit on the battery, an input demand greater than 120W could overload the battery. Since regulators typically limit output not input, you have to also allow for losses in the regulator.
These extreme output mods are highly dependent on people using the correct cells in them. Using a battery without the necessary drain limit can be hazardous. Most people are aware of the need to use the correct battery, but there's always someone who will do something stupid no matter how bold the print.
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Oh, one comment with respect to that 250W board. As the board would have to monitor battery voltage anyway, it would only be a matter of a few lines of code to ensure input demand does not exceed battery drain limits. It's likely the board limits output power as required depending on the cell configuration (2 or 3 series cells). I would be surprised if that's not the case, though it may not be. Just depends on how thorough the engineers are in terms of safety and how flexible the board is in terms of cell configuration.
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Greetings. First time poster here. Please go easy on me.
I'm surprised that I'm the first to post this, but Paul Busardo did gave the SX350 board EXCELLENT marks on his review. Check out the scope portion (starts at 34:31) of his review.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARcoviGKT5A#t=2071
I'm looking to build my first mod. If I use a commercial board, this will be it.