Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: runawaytrainn on May 02, 2014, 12:25:12 AM
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hi everyone, I got my second okr t10 box mod finished, that I made out of an aluminum project box following breaktrus schematic with out using caps or the 1st pin. it works but I'm getting sparks when I try to put the lid on with the screws... none of the wires are bare or touching anything, the only thing that's touching the box is the potentiometer, the ground, and the stainless switch? anyone have any ideas? the mod works great other than that... considering I fried my first okr lol...
I did notice the 2 wires on the potentiometer were touching could that have been it??
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What I do know is that: Sparks are not a good sign :laughing:
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No, sparks are not good.
Any close ups? Are the screws cutting into anything?
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I'll post some close ups l8r today , no the screws are not cutting into anything I also noticed the line that goes from pin 5 to the potentiometer is getting really hot...
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Hmm, sparks bad. Hopefully you don't have a screw drilling into a battery :(
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heres the pics and the screws aren't hitting anything at all. the arcing just happens when I put it all in the box and cover it :wallbash:
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I can't say for sure from the pictures, but a circuit has to be made that did not exist before to cause arcing. That can happen with either high current or high voltage. Since high voltage is not present it has to be high current which would indicate the occurrence of a short circuit when installing the lid. I can't think of any way for that to happen other than the lid making contact with the high side of a circuit element. That's what I would look for anyway.
I suppose it's possible there's a faulty ground that is only making contact when the lid is installed, but I don't see how. There's a lot of input capacitance on the converter so you could get some arcing when initially closing the circuit with the battery, but there wouldn't be a lot of arcing, just one little spark and that's it. Though it would spark every time since the circuit is opened then closed since the caps discharge and then charge.
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thx for your help craig the other problem is the line going from the pot to the sled neg is getting so hot its staring to melt... I don't have a fuse or an on off switch would that help me or should I just try the other method using the remote on off control pin?
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Yeah, it's hard to tell with the photos.
Just a few comments though:
The positive red battery wire is spliced, wrapped in tape and wedged against the case near the screw mounting corner. Make sure the tape is not pierced or cut.
Although they don't look like they are touching, I see several positive and negative points that are extremely close. Neg battery near fire button post. And neg of 510 near fire button.
I would suggest that you epoxy in the battery holder so it doesn't move around and short something out.
Check your solder connections on the battery holder. Looks like maybe they could be cold soldered.
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thx for your help craig the other problem is the line going from the pot to the sled neg is getting so hot its staring to melt... I don't have a fuse or an on off switch would that help me or should I just try the other method using the remote on off control pin?
You may have mis-wired something
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ok I checked all connections and moved the neg and pos around on the batt sled... question is the 220 ohm 1/8 watt resistor ok with this or should I use a bigger one??
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220 ohm - 1/8 watt is fine
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I think moving the pos and neg around on the sled so that the neg on the sled isn't so close to the pos on the switch worked! it stoped sparking and heating up... my guess is they were so close they were jumping ? its a pain to work with such a tight space... I luv this forum you all are so helpful I cant thank you enough!!!
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vaping like a champ now cant_believe: :thankyou:
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Yea, was probably arching, the path of least resistance and all that ;)
Heat shrink tubing would be better then tape, but hey, tapes better them nothin :yes"
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Yes tape is pretty worthless. It will degrade with heat and unravel. Heat shrink tubing is what you should use, lasts forever pretty much. Even most hardware stores carry the stuff.
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I did use heat shrink, the only tape on it is wrapped around the chip, and I used a piece of tape to remind me which line was which. thx for the tips