Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: memoevapor on June 22, 2014, 10:28:08 AM
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Was wondering if I could get this checked for errors and/or soundness?
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It looks correct.
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COOL! Thank you!
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Put a fuse inline with each battery to protect from charge mismatch or reverse polarity on installation of one of the cells.
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Would this switch eliminate the need of a mosfet.
http://www.brothersperformance.com/nos-20-amp-push-button-nitrous-activation-switch.html?gclid=CJq82_GymL8CFUNgMgodqjUANg
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sorry you can ignore that post. typed before i looked.
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Would this switch eliminate the need of a mosfet.
http://www.brothersperformance.com/nos-20-amp-push-button-nitrous-activation-switch.html?gclid=CJq82_GymL8CFUNgMgodqjUANg
You may want to look at THIS (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,162.msg13234.html#msg13234)
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Would this switch eliminate the need of a mosfet. http://www.brothersperformance.com/nos-20-amp-push-button-nitrous-activation-switch.html?gclid=CJq82_GymL8CFUNgMgodqjUANg
Yeah it would, but that's a pretty big switch, designed for the dash a of a car. Then there's the cycle life, probably pretty low for that one. You can get million cycle tactiles that will last a couple years with daily usage.
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Put a fuse inline with each battery to protect from charge mismatch or reverse polarity on installation of one of the cells.
What fuse what I need for this setup? Also can you recommend an on/off switch?
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With the help of this great forum I was able to make a few OKR-T/10 box mods and had fun. I'm happy with mine. I was looking into to building one of these MOSFET boxs. Just a few questions:
The 15k resistor is basically to stop the mosfet from continual firing right? So I'm not putting on a master switch.
Since no "Chip" is limiting the coil builds subohming is now limited to battery specs and fire button? or one or the other?
What fuses would one use for dual vtc4 or 5? My just waking up guess would be to read the specs of the battery and get 5amps-10amps more than the max output/pulse rate per battery.
Can a pot be used? Or would adding that remove the simplicity of the build? lol.
Volt meter connection. Positive to Positve out of battery area and negative to "Drain" on mosfet or negative on 510? Right
My guess is that this thing is gonna be a easy build CLOUD MAKER. I'm trying to blow the socks off my buddy not his face lol. He will have to calculate the watts by his build and volts being used. And as always any help is appreciated
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The 15k resistor is basically to stop the mosfet from continual firing right? So I'm not putting on a master switch.
It's actually an integral part of the function. Without it, the gate pin "floats" when the switch is relaxed. It can actually pic up electromagnetic radiation in the air like an antenna and jump around on and off.
Since no "Chip" is limiting the coil builds subohming is now limited to battery specs and fire button? or one or the other?
You're limited by the batteries when using a MOSFET with a high enough current rating. Otherwise, you're limited by the MOSFET. Even so, burst rate limits apply to an e-cig which is at least 30A for each cell giving you a total of 60A with parallel cells. At a minimum 3V, you have 180W available.
What fuses would one use for dual vtc4 or 5?
Select fuses where expected maximal demand is between the hold and trip current for the set. If you expect a maximal demand of say 30A, you should use a set of fuses that will not trip with a demand of 30A. You'll have to get close to the trip current since if you try to set a demand that high at the hold current, the resulting trip current will be so high you'll have no protection. Note that trip currents and hold currents add for fuses in parallel.
Can a pot be used? Or would adding that remove the simplicity of the build?
Only for a mod that incorporates a regulator, otherwise there is no purpose for one.
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Thanks Craig.
So because the batts are in parallel people like to use two for the higher watts 60Ax3v= 180W. So just using one battery would produce only (HAHA) 90W with min 3v. Any hidden downside in just a single batt? Besides a shorter batt life and lower Watts. I’m looking to build a smaller box. I don’t like seeing too much empty space in box builds so I do plan on putting a volt meter in. Thanks again.
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Parallel cells are equivalent to one larger cell. The advantages you get in any case with a larger cell are higher current limits, less voltage drop for better power delivery, and longer run time.
Yes you can use a single cell. If your demand does not exceed the capability of the battery you want to use, all is golden. You'll get better performance out of the battery with multiple cells, but that's how it is with e-cigs. It's always the trade-off for size versus performance.
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Thanks Much appreciated. On to phase two of planning.
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Would these be good fuses to use? So if wired in parallel would equal 30 amp limit?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/AHRF1500/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgjL4JkW1EEVNr4NcEMyYyxml0Nw%2fj%252b44%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/AHRF1500/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgjL4JkW1EEVNr4NcEMyYyxml0Nw%2fj%252b44%3d)
What about this on/off switch?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/CS12ANW03/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujTsz9aRA2fgm7ffkK4l7akp%2fAYv4JJxHA%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/CS12ANW03/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujTsz9aRA2fgm7ffkK4l7akp%2fAYv4JJxHA%3d)
Also can I just use 18g wire throughout the build.
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Would these be good fuses to use? So if wired in parallel would equal 30 amp limit?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/AHRF1500/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgjL4JkW1EEVNr4NcEMyYyxml0Nw%2fj%252b44%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/AHRF1500/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgjL4JkW1EEVNr4NcEMyYyxml0Nw%2fj%252b44%3d)
What about this on/off switch?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/CS12ANW03/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujTsz9aRA2fgm7ffkK4l7akp%2fAYv4JJxHA%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/CS12ANW03/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujTsz9aRA2fgm7ffkK4l7akp%2fAYv4JJxHA%3d)
Also can I just use 18g wire throughout the build.
There are lower resistance fuses available and that fuse is going to be physically quite large. I would use these fuses instead:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/MHP-TA15-9-77/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugw3UY4%252bk6FyTRt5VcAhouYP%252bPoptwCuCrPM4wVe6lAEg%3d%3d
You can use the slide switch you linked to disconnect the fire button. Do not use it as a battery disconnect since it is not rated for high current.
If you are limiting the mod to 15 amps, then 18 gauge wire will work.
Skipped over that you would be using the fuses in parallel for 30 amps. You should probably use 16-14 gauge wire. The wire going to the fire switch and gate can be 24 gauge.
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can you recommend a slide switch that is rated correctly? So place the linked switch as shown in the diagram would not work?
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There are lower resistance fuses available and that fuse is going to be physically quite large. I would use these fuses instead:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/MHP-TA15-9-77/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugw3UY4%252bk6FyTRt5VcAhouYP%252bPoptwCuCrPM4wVe6lAEg%3d%3d
That fuse is a great size. The "Hold Current" is 15A. The "Trip Current" is at 30A. Does that mean anything higher than 30A and it will trip? Or hitting 30A will trip it?
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These fuses don't trip like a circuit breaker. You can look at the trip time versus trip current chart in the data sheet to get an idea. They usually have that information.
If you go too high on the trip current you can get into a situation where an actual fault current will not trip the fuse. With a trip current of 30A, it takes a 30A battery to trip it and even then it will take an amount of time. If it takes too long, it won't protect the circuit. When getting into these high currents you need to run pretty close to the trip current to ensure the fuse will actually protect the circuit if a short occurs.