Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Thearlaich1965 on August 18, 2014, 06:32:34 PM
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freaked_out:
I was weighing all of the possibilities there were to build but with all the stuff going one here I did not have the mental clarity to even chase down all of the parts I would need for an OKR T10, although I did and was about to order them. I finally gave up when I ran across a certain vendor who had SX350 boards for the best price I've seen so far and they have them in stock or so they say.
I ordered an SX350 board, http://vaposphere-usa.com/products/sx350-board-by-yihiecigar-v2-0a-50-watts-with-wires
and the blue with glow in the dark green box, http://vaposphere-usa.com/products/sx350-build-your-own-mod-kit-with-50-watt-chip.
I won't be using the 510 that comes with it. I ordered one of these before I saw this deal and I liked it better, http://www.varitube.com/510-Connector--Self-adjusting-Spring-Loaded-Center-Pin--14mm-22mm_p_141.html . I ordered the 14mm but it looks like the 17mm would have worked better, nothing a washer can't fix. :yes"
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Think I may be using a thicker gauge wire for the 510 connector. So many places leave out details that I think are important. freaked_out:
Never mind, they updated the page to show that the new boards with be shipping with 16 gauge wires. I will see if they are stranded copper wire, I sure hope so.
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I've got the same story. Just waiting for my enclosure to get here to put my DNA 30 in.
20g wire for the atty and battery is pretty much what everyone here uses, 22-24g for tact switch's.
Don't recall if the SX has reverse polarity protection, but a PTC fuse is always good even if it only serves as back up protection.
Let me add that 16g is bigger wire then 20g, sometimes that can hurt the performance on a given device, not sure if that would be the case on the SX, maybe it's to support the higher wattage of the upgraded SX chip.
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Whatever is easiest I always say. I always try to find the most simple way to do things so I can relate to that.
If you look up the resistance of 20ga versus 16ga, you'll find it's about 10 mOhms per foot versus 4 mOhms per foot. A section 3 inches long would be about 2.5 mOhms versus 1 mOhms. With a current of 10A, that's a loss of 250mW versus 100mW. At 50W, it's a .5% loss versus a .2% loss. Really anything under 1% is negligible.
So unless you want to minimize losses absolutely or you plan to run unusually high currents, 16ga versus 20ga is not going to be that much of a help. Though losses increase by a factor of four from 10A to 20A so in that case a heavy gauge might be worthwhile.
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Jasen, I think the 16ga upgrade, or at least I hope, is to accommodate future upgrades. The SX350a that they are selling has been upgraded to 50w as the first upgrade, the sx330 in the IPV V2 has been upgraded 2 or three times to the 50 watts that it is now, if I'm not mistaken. This means the SX350 Could be upgraded again in the future, <crossing my fingers>. :thumbsup:
Craig, I couldn't remember the added resistance of the thicker wire but that's even less than I was thinking.
I will be building more for myself in the future.
I have a friend who owns a vapor store. He just opened a couple of months ago and business is slow in spite of being on Main St. He would like to build a mod. I might build an OKR T10 and let him have it for cheap so he will get the bug to start building on his own unless he asks me to build for the store. I referred him to this website in case he decided to get into mod building.
Thanks for the input, Jasen and Craig. :beer-toast:
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Also, on the mod in the OP, I hope to modify it to put in magnets. After dealing with always needing two screwdrivers and several hex key wrenches with me wherever I go I'd like to ditch some of those tools for a magnetic enclosure. :rockin smiley:
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Here is the kit they sent me:
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/breaktru/SX350_Kit_Pic_sml.png)
There's a little bitty tactile button that looks pretty cool but I'm trying to figure out how to mount it. Also grieving the fact that I will have to cut the factory switch to use this.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/breaktru/buttons.jpg)
The factory switch can be seen on the left side of this little image:
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/breaktru/yihi_sml.JPG)
I reduced the images to save on bandwidth.
I checked online for info about the PCB and on PBusardo's video entitled "A PBusardo Review & Contest Winner - The Tatroe Mods Atlas & The Yihi SX350" he goes through the mod that he's gotten it in and into great detail about the test results. From this I learned that the step up convertor is strong enough to use the dual batteries in parallel rather than series. I went parallel because of all around easier use.
Ha, his initials mean lead. :laughing2: I'd let him know but I'll bet he's heard that before.
Actually, before I do that I need to run some tests on both switches and see what kind of switches they are and how they work for sure. What I may do for now is going to be messy and maybe even a bad idea. I think I'll put it together with the button sticking out the bottom. :D
BTW- The minutes wires connected to the SX350 and running to the right are to add two more buttons for easier functionality. Next mod.
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Here's a couple of things that would have helped greatly since the kit lacked any documentation except for the receipt, lol.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/breaktru/Screenshot-5_9_201410_26_35AM_zps69fe93e3.png)
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/breaktru/Tabel-pic.jpg)
I decided to just host these from my own server because I want to keep records on my site too.
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SO, I just found out when Yihiecig upgraded the chip they had to make it a bit larger and use thicker wires to the batts and atty. It will not fit in the box. Cool. Wasn't crazy about the dims when I got it anyway. I should have been more careful about ordering it. I may make it into a wooden box mod. The proportions are actually just larger than an Altoids case which I am eyeballing right now.
I also may have messed up the chip in the process since I got hotmelt glue into the USB port, :wallbash:. The glue didn't do it. scraping it out probably did. It will charge and my computer sees that I connected something it didn't want to associate with. The Yihi software won't see it either so I can't do the upgrade. Another problem is that it won't read the atty attached to it. It defaults to 2.5 ohms and gives me watts readings based on that. It does adjust watts up and down the way it should and only vapes for three seconds when the system is "off". You would think off means off but maybe they are backwards thinkers like I am.
I just gave up on the buttons since I decided not to keep using this box for long.
Posting pictures here only for humor. We can always use a good laugh.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fail/1.jpg)
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fail/2.jpg)
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fail/3.jpg)
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Switching it to right handed mode later today. Can't wait.
<moving the button>
The design actually has the button where you can't see the screen if you press it with your thumb and are right handed. Take that all you righties, including me. If my wife or any of my left handed relatives where going to use this I wouldn't go to the arduous task of moving the button ;), but I will be the only one using it.
I have no kids who can be hurt by this mod.
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Sorry to hear about the board being larger. Too bad.
You have to remove the batteries. See Upgrade: http://www.varitube.com/Authentic-YiHi-SX350-50W-Chip_p_130.html
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Sorry to hear about the board being larger. Too bad.
:laughing2:
Thanks. I'll give the battery thing a try. I do think there is a backdoor set or clear in the PCB or chip that could be reset somehow. Hopefully this could do it.
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Thanks, it's making contact with the computer now. Cool. I'm certain the fit issue is user error. Since I'm not crazy about the box, my bad, I'll just be happy to get the PCB working properly.
I had to walk away from it for a spell.
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Hopefully the boards okay. Did you try a different resistance coil?
How is it firing?
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It did take the upgrade but following the instructions from the point where I have to disconnect it from the USB didn't go as they said it would. It says unplug USB and hold down fire button for about five seconds until you see the version number come up and scroll through. So I did that and nothing. It didn't say to put batteries back in yet so I tried it without first then with, nothing either way. Still followed the instructions to the letter the rest of the way and it did upgrade.
Now the bypass finally works but I'm afraid it now defaults to .5 ohms for resistance and can not see the actual resistance of my atty. I may have caused this because I might have had the iron on the wire a few seconds longer than I thought. At least at 60watts it will put out 5.79 volts. It's still useful but I think I fried it. I'll have to get another and be even more careful next time. It's cool and still fun so voiding the warranty by soldering it is their rule. I'll check around but Yihi recommended I check with the SX350 modders on Facebook since it's their specialty.
If I hosed the board, for me it's par for the course. I have always had trouble understanding the simplest of instructions. It's part of how I learn. No big deal as long as no one gets hurt. ;)
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Also thanks for the help. I'll build another one and post it when I get it done.
To answer your question, I did try other coils. I tried a Kanger 2 ohm protank, a Tobh built to .43, and two Squapes, one built to .45 and another built to 1.3.
I wish I could warn people not to use the kit I got because it tore the skin off of two VTC4s after the first time I put them in. I will say check any sled for that possibility. I didn't even think of it.
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I look at it like this, it still fires subohm coils nicely. It is still reliable.
Even a broken clock is right once or twice a day depending on what kind of clock it is. :D
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Now that you are a full blown modder, invest in a half decent temperature controlled soldering station. You'll be so happy you did.
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Yep, that's the problem my station was set to 750 degrees but I sometimes space out in the middle of doing things. I think I spaced too long on this part. :laughing2:
Almost had to break out the Dremel for this but my buck knife did the trick.
It's sad how much a person can forget in 25 years of not working with circuits. :)
Edit: Maybe a lower temp next time too.
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I solder my board pins at about 600 degrees and about 700 for heavier things like the atty ground
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Thank you very much. I didn't remember what temp we used when I was active duty because as soon as I got done with the school I found out all we had to do was troubleshoot the computers to the board and then replace the board. No more soldering. I only recently acquired an iron with temp control and am learning this all over again. freaked_out:
Now I need to search the board for a thread on tactile switches. I'm sure there's some good info about that here.
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Aha! I figured out what I did wrong in installing it. There really is just a little room to spare.
Thanks for the help.
I'm also going to see if I can flash to a previous firmware on this unit so I can have access to higher voltage.
Edit: Posting my pics here.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fixed/front.png)
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fixed/button.png)
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fixed/back.png)
Now to get graphics for a T.A.R.D.I.S. look to the mod.
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We got it. The SX350 Modder's page on FB has a lot of resources.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fixed/35w.jpg)
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fixed/35wb.jpg)
It's only 35 watts now but the default is 2.5 ohms. Now I can have more power.
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Awesome sauce. I thought I had wrecked its ability to read resistance because it would only show the default resistance yesterday. I kept flashing the mod to get it to default to something that would give me the most power I could get from it.
Something odd happened in the process, it now reads resistance properly. I don't know if it's from all of the flashing or from just messing with it so much. This was caused, as I had suspected by a backdoor set as we used to call it, where a capacitor was holding a charge and locked up some part of the circuit. In the process of messing with my mod, I somehow managed to discharge the cap and now it works. :rockin smiley:
Now to get the TARDIS graphics on it.
Edit: It's also firing at 60 watts! The default resistance for this setting is .5 ohms. My Atty is .4 ohms.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fixed/ohms.png)
Edit2: And now it's back to its old tricks. No biggie.
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Nice mod U built there Chuck. :beer-toast:
I'm happy to hear that the flashing fixed the ohm reading. Must have been locked up or somethin'
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Thanks, that's exactly what I was thinking.
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;cheers;
Edit2: And now it's back to its old tricks. No biggie.
Old tricks? 2.5 ohms?
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Can you shoot some dimensions on that box? Plus how is the quality on the box? Would it survive a drop or two?
Thanks.
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;cheers;
Old tricks? 2.5 ohms?
Yes, lol, 2.5 ohms or 0.5 depending on which SXI file I use. It's cool because of the workaround at 2.5 ohms.
Can you shoot some dimensions on that box? Plus how is the quality on the box? Would it survive a drop or two?
Thanks.
In X, Y, Z dims but with a ruler, it is 45mmx65mmx36mm, outside box dims with the faceplate being the Z direction.
Edit: Sorry, it does seem like it could handle a drop or two. It is a printed box but I've seen a video where some Swiss (I think) scientists printed a bicycle and were able to ride it for about 50'. So printing the box might be quite sturdy enough, but of course nothing like a Hammond box.
BTW- the USB that comes with the chip has it's own slot that it slips into and seems to snap in place. Holding fine right now with just hot melt glue but I'm going back in later with some epoxy when I get a chance.
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More about the T.A.R.D.I.S. upgrade to the box which now looks like the TARDIS to me no matter what and I keep referring to it by that name in my mind.
(http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2010/171/6/1/Cubee___TARDIS_by_CyberDrone.jpg)
Re-size it to fit, cut holes where necessary, and use Mod Podge to apply it. Since Mod Podge is an acrylic, unless I'm mistaken, it might not also need a clear coat follow-up.
Original image can be found here, http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2010/171/6/1/Cubee___TARDIS_by_CyberDrone.jpg.
Edit: I'll actually be putting the graphic on it with the front face on the back of the mod so as not to lose the cool detail of the front of the TARDIS. I'll also not be using the the parts of the graphics that are not practical for this such as the top and bottom. Imay also modify the blue color of the image a little to be more similar to the box mod.
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Well, this board and chip is pretty awesome when you put it together correctly. If you connect the 510 ground to battery positive who knows what could happen. I'm lucky I didn't vent any batteries or kill the PCB or cause a nuclear explosion.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fail/510_ground_fail.png)
I still have to go back in and cut up the battery sled so it will accommodate the larger winding on the the board and create a pocket to allow the 510 Positive pin to actually float and not have to wire to it bent don't so badly.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fail/510_squish_1.png)
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/fail/510_squish_2.png)
Last night I went back in to re-seat the USB board and use epoxy on it this time but also to resolder some wires thinking I had a cold solder somewhere.
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I did one thing right on the first try. The screen is even and centered.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/breaktru/screenshot.jpg)
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Nice work Chuck :rockin smiley:
There is NO polarity for a 510 connector. The enclosure is non conductive so there is no chance of a short.
If the enclosure was metalic, you would have to be careful of not having an opposite polarity conducting thru the case. Such as using the case/enclosure as a ground plane.
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Exactly. I'm just surprised I got any current through the atty with the way it was connected. I was once told that grounds do indeed feed back but it was never actually on the tests in class. Although, it did show up as an anomaly sometimes in troubleshooting problems in class and would confuse my shipmates. It would often clue me in to where the problem was and often direct me to the logic element without even having to trace the circuit.
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What I meant when saying the 510 has NO polarity was it will work either way. Pos to 510 base or Neg to base.
Being that the enclosure is made of PLA material, it is safe with the pos wire reversed on the 510.
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Whew! that's a relief, thanks. I was afraid I was vaping feedback. That can't be good for ya'. ;)
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This post is awesome, been thru hell and highwater hopefully get it working properly now :yes"
Mod is looking might fine and with the tardis its gonna be awesome sauce.
I missed the pilot for this season, been meaning to watch it but forgets.
Been a long wait too..
All new cast see how this goes...
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Thanks, I can't wait to get started on the TARDIS.
I've got that episode on the DVR but with just moving in and the mod and the house warming party coming up this weekend I haven't had time. I did manage to find time to test the new remote keyboard and mouse for the TV computer by playing a couple of hours of World of Warcraft. :)
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There is one issue with wiring the atty connector center post to negative and the base to positive. Though it's only a concern when using a USB charger. If you are charging and vaping at the same time, you could potentially establish a short circuit through the charger ground and atomizer base.
Now USB charger adapters are normally isolated from ground when plugged into the wall so it's not an issue there, but if you were charging with a cig lighter adapter in the car, the car is ground with the charger and the base of the atomizer is essentially battery positive.
If you fire the atomizer with the base touching any metal in the car, things could fry. The controller does provide short circuit protection, but only for short circuit currents at the atomizer connector which are high. The relatively light gauge lines feeding the USB charger would probably not benefit from that protection since the controller board may not even recognize it as a short.
It's an unlikely scenario, but I've gotten bit by that before. It seems no matter how unlikely something, it will happen at some point anyway.
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Thank you, CraigHB, such things happen to me as well. That is very handy to know. I occasionally take long drives half way across Texas to see family and, of course, vape a lot on the trip. I'll be sure not to vape while charging the same mod.
Would a pass-through suffer the same fate?
I found a post by you, CraigHB that pretty well answered the question I just asked. No problem, It will be the ehuge for long road trips with the extra tube to get the full 5 amp feeling. With MNK 3500 batts inline I could go through one set and maybe into another but I will be able to pass on the pass-through.
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Okay, the box really is a little small for the new PCB and chip design because of the winding on the PCB, this is good. It also scrunched the 510 center pin down much more than I liked and began to return the error message "check atomizer", this too is good. Why, might you ask? Because it forced me to finally open the Dremel and do some things I needed to learn such as how to adapt the sled to accommodate the limit real estate.
Now it truly is bigger on the inside.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/final/dremelled%20out.png)
Cut out for winding.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/final/dremelled%20out%202.png)
Hard to see but I cut this out for the 510.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/final/battclear.png)
Batteries are clear.
I also shortened some of the wires I had added and actually made them bend in the right places.
It works. Plenty of room. Next week, new graphics. :rockin smiley:
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Now I need to search the board for a thread on tactile switches. I'm sure there's some good info about that here.
I could mail you a few bullet tacts if you want them, no charge just pay postage?
Got a box sitting on my desk; KSJ0M211 80SH (C&K)
(http://elcodis.com/photos/15/40/154011/mfg_ksj0m211_80sh_lft.jpg)
Whoops...guess I should kept reading. :wallbash:
Congrats on getting it working! :rockin smiley:
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I could mail you a few bullet tacts if you want them, no charge just pay postage?
Got a box sitting on my desk; KSJ0M211 80SH (C&K)
(http://elcodis.com/photos/15/40/154011/mfg_ksj0m211_80sh_lft.jpg)
Whoops...guess I should kept reading. :wallbash:
Congrats on getting it working! :rockin smiley:
Actually, I'll be building a big one with 26650 batteries next. I could use three and I'll be happy to pay for them and shipping. I was just about to order just now.
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Okay, the box really is a little small for the new PCB and chip design because of the winding on the PCB, this is good. It also scrunched the 510 center pin down much more than I liked and began to return the error message "check atomizer", this too is good. Why, might you ask? Because it forced me to finally open the Dremel and do some things I needed to learn such as how to adapt the sled to accommodate the limit real estate.
Now it truly is bigger on the inside.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/final/dremelled%20out.png)
Cut out for winding.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/final/dremelled%20out%202.png)
Hard to see but I cut this out for the 510.
(http://chuckhargis.com/sx350/final/battclear.png)
Batteries are clear.
I also shortened some of the wires I had added and actually made them bend in the right places.
It works. Plenty of room. Next week, new graphics. :rockin smiley:
Lol
I've not made a mod yet that's ended up with the amount of space that I planned.
I'm just finishing a DNA30 mod that went all to plan until I put it all together. I've had to leave out the fuses because they just won't fit.
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Understandable. My mod was easier than I made it out to be. This is only the second one I've built. The first was an OKR mod that I bought cheap parts for and it crumbled on me.
Most if not all of the problems I had were because I'm still so new to this and I didn't want to have to break the seal on the new Dremel, :laughing:. Also having medical issues that really didn't help my focus in building this thing. I have to say that this mod has been very forgiving. There were several times I thought it was a goner. It is rockin' today.
We're having a party this Sunday and just moved in to this place so I'm very busy with my honey-do list. Next week I'll finally have time to get the graphics onto my mod and then I think I'll finally be able to call it done. 8)
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Nice work :thumbsup: I prefer the fat daddy spring loaded 510 connectors over the varitube as you solder direct to the center pin rather than the current running through the spring as in the varitube version. I've used the varitube ones but made a longer center pin for it.
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Actually, I'll be building a big one with 26650 batteries next. I could use three and I'll be happy to pay for them and shipping. I was just about to order just now.
Yea...I can mail ya some...how many do you need?
Send me a PM and give me your e-mail addy, full name, mailing addy and how many.
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Mev, thanks. I might try the Varitube on the next mod since I already have a couple on hand. I'm having trouble with the Fatdaddy extending out enough to make contact with some of my atties. That may be because of some of the issues I had earlier.
timesarerough, Thanks. I went and ordered some because I thought I might like to have a few on hand.