Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Breaktru on April 17, 2012, 03:36:13 PM
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Work in progress........
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod1.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod2.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod3.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod4.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu6.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=533.0;attach=974;image)
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/avr_pcb1.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/avr_pcb3.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod5.jpg)
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Hmmm, what have we here. A very interesting progress in motion.. :thumbsup:
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Looking good there boss.
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Looking good :D
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Finally Completed and it works great.
I would have liked to put it in a smaller enclosure but I settled on this one. I searched for months and couldn't find anything I liked.
Next one will be smaller.
The next to last photo shows the button I would have liked to use but it was too massive.
I refrained from using a Digital Pot because I need a 200 ohm trimmer and the D.P.'s lowest value is 10k ohms. Having done this with my side x side mod, I know that adjusting voltage would be pretty crappy as the increment jumps are pretty large.
Features:
AVR ATMega328 - microprocessor
Amperage Sensor
Programmed w/ Arduino Sketch Software
FTDI output pins for future re-programming
OKR-T/6
Voltage Range: 3.5v to 6.0v
30Watts - 6amps
USB Charging Circuit
Series 2x Li-Po 20c batteries for vaping
Parallel batteries for charging via USB
8x2 LCD Display
Slotted Vent Holes on bottom plate
Display Shows:
Output Voltage - Amperage - Resistance of Atty - Wattage - Battery Level in Percentage
ProVari V2 - 3.5amps, 16watts
Darwin - 3amps, 13watts
My MCU Mod - 6amps, 30watts - Tune by Wattage
I compared voltage, amperage and resistance with my Digital Multimeter and the Mod Display readings are exact.
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_01.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_02.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_03.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_04.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_05.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_06.jpg)
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Its smaller then the case would have suggested. You rock Break looks good.
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looks very good will you be doing a how to make one video ha ha jimmy :rockin smiley:
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Wiring...... needs some squaring off... ya think!
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_07.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_mod_08.jpg)
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i hope one day i will be as good as you :rockin smiley:
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i hope one day i will be as good as you :rockin smiley:
Takes some practicing and patience... you can do it too
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Been playing around with this and it is kinda cool to have a display with all of the measurements.
You can focus on just the Wattage reading and adjust the pot to a desired wattage.
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hi there i have learnt loads in the last 7 month that me and missis have been vaping but i`m sure that i won`t get that good ha ha i have only just learnt how to read the battery life and vaping voltage, with my little lcd`s. I have been looking at some chips they are like the okr and the ptr but they have only got a maximum voltage of 5.1 volts but they come in 3 amp 6 mp and 10 amp but i`m going to have a proper look tommorow at it
.
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the chip are artesyn ldo03c
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the chip are artesyn ldo03c
I've seen those before. I ordered samples of all three amperage but never received them.
As well as similar manufactures versions of it.
Thanks to timesarerough who made me aware of the samples.
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do you think the voltage would go higher :beer-toast:jimmy
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Beautiful, nice job there. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with future revisions.
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Well done my friend :beer-toast:
A terrific refreshing change to the Ho-Hum modding scene :yes"
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WOOT! - WOOT!
I've been waiting with baited breath for the completed version to appear. Me Likes :thumbsup:
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Wiring...... needs some squaring off... ya think!
Nah looks good :D I also like how you used the RC style plugs for the batteries. Looks as tho you have spare room in their to add a few things if you want to. Size wise looks like 2 stacked 4aa boxes
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Can I get a schematic? Looks Amazing Dave! Congrats!!!
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Well done, now thats what I call a mod :)
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Fantastic job :rockin smiley: Next you will have to do a surface mount version! I lot of people who checked out my box mod in person, said they love the voltage adjust knob...they said they love the fact you can just dial it in....rather than using a changing the voltage using button interface via a digipot... I guess you could try 4050c's in parallel and get 24watts...if out doing the ProVari and others are a priority...I do think its cool that you did! :laughing2:
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OMG! I love it. This has to be the coolest mod I've seen.
I love the idea of being able to see the wattage and dial it up or down.
Yes the analog pot in my opinion is a better choice. Although I like the cool-ness of a D.P., the analog pot is more practical.
Way to go breaktru!!!!!
:beer-toast:
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Had a bit of a problem with the LCD Display flashing and code locking up on occasion. I suspected noise on the output for the AVR LM317 power supply. Voltage measurements where steady using a voltmeter. An oscilloscope would have shown the noise/ripple but I don't have one so I went with my gut that there must be noise generated by the OKR-T-6's 600kHz frequency. I experienced this on bench testing and I isolated the OKR by removing it off the PCB and moved it about a foot away. The problem disappeared.
But putting it in the same enclosure as the AVR chip brought back the occasional problem which eventually became a persistent problem. What to do? I shielded it by wrapping some aluminum foil around the OKR, that didn't help. I looked into better filtering of the LM317 AVR power supply and came up with adding additional filtering.
I replaced the recommended output 0.1uF electrolytic cap with a 10uF, paralleled a 0.1uF Ceramic (for ripple filtering) and added a (C-Adj) 10uF electrolytic to Adj to gnd. What did the trick was the C-adj cap. It's nice and stable now.
I'll monitor my usage and see how it goes. Recharged the Li-Po's last night and it took 6 hrs for full charge. Both batteries measured 4.19v after completion.
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Glad you solved it! I don't know if you could have solved this with an RC filter in the circuit or not.... there are various calculators online that help calculate the values.
I'm in the same boat as you when it comes to an oscilloscopes...I've seen some decent (based on price/specs, not experience) USB based scopes for $150, Single channel, 100m/s sample rate, 8 bit sampling A/D, Bandwidth varies but you can find them above 1 Mega Hz to about 25 Mega Hz, which would be fine for tracking down a 600Khz ripple. For about $250 you can get two channel storage PC based scope that will be of great assistance if you get into I2C (two wire interface for micro-controllers) or SPI (serial protocol interface)...for controlling LCD's, oLED's or Digi-pots. Used to use them (older analog scopes) a lot in school and borrowed ones from Silicon Valley engineers when I lived there.
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Wow weeeee!!!
Thanks for sharing it with us breaktru...
Fantastic!
:rockin smiley:
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Don't waste your money with USB scopes and sound card scopes. Just get yourself a proper one. If you can afford it, this one (http://mastechpowersupply.com/digital-oscilloscope/rigol-ds1052e-50mhz-digital-oscilloscope/prod_40.html) is really nice for the cost.
It you don't want to spend the money on a new one, you can find good used analog scopes on eBay for under $100. Digital storage scopes are nice, but you can do 90% of what you'd want to do with an analog scope and they're a dime a dozen.
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Yeah the "Sound Card" Scopes are junk....I've heard the USB scopes aren't too bad for occasional use...But you are right good quality tools always cost and most times not spending enough is just throwing your money away....That scope for $399 is really nice for the money...THANKS! :)
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I have been powering an OKR-T/6 with two Li-Po's in series and charging them in parallel using a 3PDT slide switch.
Before I connect the USB charger, I place the 3PDT in parallel mode which allows the batteries to equal out for awhile before charging.
Batteries have always came off the charger COOL on full charge and have never been even warm.
Each battery has measured 4.19v when done.
So far I've done this several times and so far so good. Haven't blown myself up yet. I'll keep ya's informed when an explosion occurs or have my next of kin post post an obituary notice........ :laughing:
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/usb_charge.jpg)
Charging Chip: SEE DATASHEET (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21984e.pdf)
Charger has a Preconditioning feature. See page 13 of datasheet.
Charging takes 5 hours
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This is way cool dude. Just love it. :thumbsup:
When and what is the next mod?
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This is way cool dude. Just love it. :thumbsup:
When and what is the next mod?
Thanks haileah,
Got a new one on the breadboard. It's a microprocessor with a tiny graphic 128x32 pixel display.
Had some test animated graphics running on it. Real cool watching. When I'm done I may only be using it for text display.
The display uses little current because it doesn't need a backlight and current draw depends on what you are doing with it. So I imagine heavy graphics would draw more than plain text.
This one will be sized down considerably.
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Hello Breaktru, nice mod once again. ;)
I have been working on my own microcontroller mod, but have difficulties finding a suitable current sensor, which did you use?
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Hello Breaktru, nice mod once again. ;)
I have been working on my own microcontroller mod, but have difficulties finding a suitable current sensor, which did you use?
You can build your own op-amp sensor http://cds.linear.com/docs/Application%20Note/an105.pdf (http://cds.linear.com/docs/Application%20Note/an105.pdf)
or go with a Hall-Effect sensor.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ACS712ELCTR-05B-T/620-1189-1-ND/1284606 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ACS712ELCTR-05B-T/620-1189-1-ND/1284606) (this is what I used)
http://www.robotshop.com/productinfo.aspx?pc=RB-Pol-171&lang=en-US (http://www.robotshop.com/productinfo.aspx?pc=RB-Pol-171&lang=en-US)
http://amploc.com/store/index.html (http://amploc.com/store/index.html)
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First I though about using a opamp and resistor, but then started to search for a "ready" ic for current measurement, so I don't have to do the calibration etc.
That seems to be exactly what I have been looking for! Well, almost. ACS711 looks like what I need, because my design is working with 3.3V. :)
Thank you very much!
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First I though about using a opamp and resistor, but then started to search for a "ready" ic for current measurement, so I don't have to do the calibration etc.
That seems to be exactly what I have been looking for! Well, almost. ACS711 looks like what I need, because my design is working with 3.3V. :)
Thank you very much!
Note: The ACS711 is good for 3.3v MCU's and the ACS712 is 5v.
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i have been wondering about this exact same setup because of the vast possibility of it
ie setting an automatic clock adjust for the vapor that likes it a little weaker in the morning and a little stronger at night or any combination during the day
MCU can hold pre-programmed settings for standard work day or long weekend vacation etc you can even have override functions for your off days
sir you rock now lets see what this baby can really do
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those nice custom boards in the pictures below the 8x2 and the schematics
are those your own design or pre fab
and if they are your own
do you plan on having them available for sale or a copy of the dwg file so we can play around with it in eagle
just wondering
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those nice custom boards in the pictures below the 8x2 and the schematics
are those your own design or pre fab
and if they are your own
do you plan on having them available for sale or a copy of the dwg file so we can play around with it in eagle
just wondering
My own design. I have since changed the design to match the new microcontroller mod so it is now outdated.
Made it in ExpressPCB so a dwg file is not an option. It was struggle to use Eagle. Craig was right about the learning curve. Should have kept at it. It was a lot easier to use Express.
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if you don't mind
shoot me a copy of what you got ill see if i can slap an eagle of it for you
i have extensive drafting background and even though you told me about eagle this morning i have been using it for about a year
(i just love learning about things that's why i asked what you use)
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if you don't mind
shoot me a copy of what you got ill see if i can slap an eagle of it for you
i have extensive drafting background and even though you told me about eagle this morning i have been using it for about a year
(i just love learning about things that's why i asked what you use)
Sorry Ray, I have been asked this many times and at this point in time, I have declined to post my mcu designs. Expect more modders showing their mcu mods soon. By the amount of PM's I have received there should be several on the way.
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Note: The ACS711 is a 25A sensor and the ACS712 is a 5A sensor
Thank you for the note, but the ACS711 is also available o as 12.5A version. That's also too much, but I think it'll have to do.
I'll try it, if it doesn't work, I'll have to go with the opamp and shunt.
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Sorry Ray, I have been asked this many times and at this point in time, I have declined to post my mcu designs. Expect more modders showing their mcu mods soon. By the amount of PM's I have received there should be several on the way.
thats cool
where would i look for the other mcu's HERE or in another thread
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Hi breakthru, im just wondering how you wired the built-in charger and have it charge in parallel.
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Hi breakthru, im just wondering how you wired the built-in charger and have it charge in parallel.
Look at Reply#28
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Hey Break you use a 3dpt slide or rocker? I have been on mouser fro a few hours and cant seem to find what I am looking for. Let me state I can find slide switches just not small enough rockers to go into an encloser I am looking at.
I just started reading on micro controllers and all the little goodies with that but I am looking at this charging circuit you have set up.
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Hey Break you use a 3dpt slide or rocker? I have been on mouser fro a few hours and cant seem to find what I am looking for. Let me state I can find slide switches just not small enough rockers to go into an encloser I am looking at.
I just started reading on micro controllers and all the little goodies with that but I am looking at this charging circuit you have set up.
The 3PDT slide switch I used was big at 1.0"L x 0.5"W, from Digikey (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GF-161-3011/SW121-ND/9613)
The one from Mouser is even bigger at 1.38"L x 0.78"W Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/50209LX/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhHhqhr9%2fD5CjvcKP%252b%2fAasitfbPq1V7L0g%3d)
This looks small, hard to read the crappy Chinese datasheet Newark (http://www.newark.com/alps/stsss2232/slide-switch-2pole-3-pos-horiz/dp/23M7471)
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The 3PDT slide switch I used was big at 1.0"L x 0.5"W, from Digikey (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GF-161-3011/SW121-ND/9613)
The one from Mouser is even bigger at 1.38"L x 0.78"W Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/50209LX/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhHhqhr9%2fD5CjvcKP%252b%2fAasitfbPq1V7L0g%3d)
This looks small, hard to read the crappy Chinese datasheet Newark (http://www.newark.com/alps/stsss2232/slide-switch-2pole-3-pos-horiz/dp/23M7471)
Thank you kind sir :)
What do you think about the picaxe mcu's?
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I think the PICaxe was a previous attempt at an "Arduino like" system. I think Arduino excecutes the idea of a simple high level MCU interface better plus it uses C instead of BASIC. The PICaxe never caught on like Arduino, but people used it to some extent.
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as always love your work Breaktru!!! lipo's lipo's lipo's love them , just remember they don't love you ! you could install a 2s balance cable & with a small lipo balance charger , balance charge them at 7.4v this way it would be SAFER & charge the battery pack quicker scared:
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one more thing , with a balance charger you can stop charging at 4.15v the batteries will last longer. over charging & over discharging . not good for LIPO BATTERIES :(
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nice mod!!!!!!
been looking at this for a while now,no matter what i do i can't be as good as you!
well hopefully one day you decide to sell em..hehehheheheheh
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one more thing , with a balance charger you can stop charging at 4.15v the batteries will last longer. over charging & over discharging . not good for LIPO BATTERIES
That's like saying, "if you never drive your car over 20mph it will last longer." Yes, you get a little less wear by short charging your Li-Ion cells, but you're also giving up a good amount of run time. The last tenth of a volt is critical for Li-Ions in fully charging them. The specs say charge to 4.20V so you should charge them to 4.20 Volts.
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hi craighb, breaktru said that it took 5hr. to charge two lipos batteries . How i charge my 10s4p lipos is to fast charge them & every 6th charge i balance charge them . when you balance charge some cells will go as high as 4.3v then at the end of the balance charge the charger will discharge the over charge cell into the the under charge cell this will take at least 40 min. my 10s4p lipos take me 3hr. to charge my e-bike
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That makes no sense to me.
You absolutely can not drive the terminal voltage of a nominal 3.7V Li-Ion cell above 4.20 volts exactly. They can tolerate up to 4.25 Volts, but anything higher damages them severely. The preferred limit is plus or minus 30mV. That's a fact with no exception. If your balance charger is driving the terminal voltage on any cell over 4.23 Volts at any time, it's a bad charger, get rid of it.
Don't use a pack charger for series Li-Ion cells. Only use a balance charger. Pack chargers can damage one of the cells severly if there's any deviation in wear between them. At a terminal charging voltage of 8.4 Volts for two Li-Ions in series, one cell could be driven up to 4.3V while the other is only at 4.1V. That's very bad for Li-Ion cells.
Charge time is merely a matter of rate and cell capacity. If you charge a 1000mAh cell with a rate of 1A it's going to take 1 hour plus 10 to 20 minutes of charging overhead. If you charge a 2000mAh cell with a rate of 1A, it's going to take 2 hours plus 10 to 20 minutes of overhead. That's all there is to it, charge time will always be a function of charging rate, cell capacity, and overhead. There are no other significant factors, but there are some insignificant ones not having any real bearing on this point.
The charging overhead comes from the final CVM phase of the charger (constant voltage mode). CVM time does vary somewhat depending on the C rate you're charging with. A 1/2C rate has higher overhead time than a 2C rate for example. It also varies depending on overall charge capacity. In any case, it's usually between 10 and 20 minutes.
Oh one other point, just like drain limits, Li-Ions have strict limits on charging rates. It's usually 1C or one times the charge. Exceeding that limit can cause the cell to overheat which damages it severely, at the worst it can result in a battery fire. Typically IMR cells and high drain LiPos can tolerate 2C. So a 1600mA cell would have a limit on the rate of two times the charge which is 3200mA or 3.2A. You generally don't want to exceed 1C for any Li-Ion cell since higher rates greatly increase wear. BTW, a 1C rate is always a charge time of 1 hour plus 10 to 20 minutes of overhead.
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No officer, I swear this isn't a detonation device! Nice work, went back to analog cigs because I was not satisfied with my vaping experiance. Going to try a okr t10 and a trident atomizer to see if I can get a really airy hit, still giving you a dense cloud. Kind of like the sub ohm stuff, with out the sub ohm, they just gave me some good ideas...
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That's a all some build break I love too build one of those one day myself but this working get a few up and running but I will try it one day I looked one of the supmosfet and come acrossed the one that is in the DNA30 mod from d.k on the mauo t-10 build waiting o. Some parts got my 20 tactile buttons today can't wait to get home too work some lol I've been watching you for sometime now and it just blows me away at how you have come along way keep going and they all look great?
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I know I don't talk much on here but I like love too share some information and get some too as I'm not that good as you could you tell me what % 5.6 zener and watt it is I'm going too be going home soon and was going too stop and get some more parts but didn't write down please
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I know I don't talk much on here but I like love too share some information and get some too as I'm not that good as you could you tell me what % 5.6 zener and watt it is I'm going too be going home soon and was going too stop and get some more parts but didn't write down please
The 5.6V zener diode can be a low watt. 1/4 Watt or higher
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Thanks I'm standing here now that's the way it works somethings you know I took some old tactile switches out of some old boards and I kind of like them better than the new ones I don't have too work as hard on getting them in as they are like 9mm tall and a soft black switch don't have too but as much out around to get them closer too the outside man did you make that board you are kicking in too high gear lol I watched the video on how you make them like 2 am in the morning after work on a box mod and its is something else how ots done got too get the equipment for that after taxes time lol
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I was wanting too ask you what is your best tasting ejuice me up that you use the most I've been wanting too do that but I didn't want too make something up without asking that first I've been going thru alot of your builds im a plumber by trade and I showed the guys at work and they all want one like that so they can but up at the shop but they don't build they want me too ask you could you make like 4"of them they said they would pay you for them !
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I was wanting too ask you what is your best tasting ejuice me up that you use the most I've been wanting too do that but I didn't want too make something up without asking that first I've been going thru alot of your builds im a plumber by trade and I showed the guys at work and they all want one like that so they can but up at the shop but they don't build they want me too ask you could you make like 4"of them they said they would pay you for them !
It's hard to suggest a recipe that I like and that someone else would enjoy. I've tasted recipes that were said to be great and were really bad (to me anyway).
Sorry, I don't sell mods anymore.
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U got that right I like a sweet tobacco flavor and something I use captain comet love the there products there is some of there's I just can't stand ! Lol I found some good stuff last nite I took a bad some bad equipment I had been waiting too take the the dump it was a gold mine
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I have too ask cause they are all standing here looking over my shoulder lol they are just amazed at the stuff you you do I don't fo too know Americans sites at all I had tryed too and they all was kind of nasty too me so I didn't ask to become a member but I been watch you for about 6 mos. And too watch you grow is truly amazing I tryed your zapper and got but on the shelf lol but they want too know if you would make some of them copper mods depended on what you would want for them but the boss has the money lol he is wanting one he has been waiting all day for me too hear from you!!
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Sorry to disappoint you and your work buddies but I no longer make mods for sale. I'm back to being a hobbyist.
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That fine I would of ask if they didn't ask me too but thanks for letting hang out with you guys you all are are some nice guys very helpful with one another I see