Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Breaktru on July 09, 2012, 06:30:37 PM
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This mod has a AtMega328p micro-controller with a Nokia cell phone display. It is powered by a 20C Lithium-Polymer battery. The boost circuit is the good ole PTN04050C.
Voltage Range: 3.78v to 6.38v
PARTS:
ATMega328p AVR
Nokia 5110 Graphic Display
PTN04050C
20C lithium polymer 3.7 battery
1 amp USB Charger
100 Amp Sensor
Parallel 5.1A PTC resetable fuses
5A On/Off Slide Switch
18 gauge wiring
Aluminum Enclosure (size of a pack of cigs)
Maximum Results so far:
25.44 Watts
4.67 Amps
UPdate: exceeded 30 Watts
The PTN04050C is spec'd at 12 Watts, 2.4 Amps yet I was able to achieve the above results.
This mod is far superior to the DNA mod.
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_01.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_02.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_amps2.jpg)
Code changed for FONT to Black on White
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia00.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_1.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_2.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_3.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_4.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_5.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_6.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_7.jpg)(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia_8.jpg)
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Oh my, what have we here...
Is that correct... 22.78 watts... 3.38 amps ;hubba;
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That 20C cell has really low DCR which makes it possible to milk everything you can out of the coverter. I guess the advertised maximum output is not based on a switch current limit programmed into the controller so that's good. I didn't know that. I thought switch current was limited to 2A for that module.
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That 20C cell has really low DCR which makes it possible to milk everything you can out of the coverter. I guess the advertised maximum output is not based on a switch current limit programmed into the controller so that's good. I didn't know that. I thought switch current was limited to 2A for that module.
I was very surprised to see more than 2.4 amps. I don't expect vaping at those limits :o
I was using paralleled 20C's with the DNA and couldn't even get 12 watts
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I probably never use all the power I have, but better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Looks like things are getting smaller. Like I said, you get better at making things smaller the more you do it. Good job on that.
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I probably never use all the power I have, but better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Nice to know that you have a power house of a mod that can handle anything.
I read about your 40 - 50 watt boost Craig. Woweeeee ;hubba;
and 22.78 watts is nothing to sneeze at breaktru :thumbsup:
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WOW D!
You have been busy, huh?
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looking good as allways m8 :rockin smiley:
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That enclosure looks real cool :rockin smiley:
It looks like it's filled to the max with parts and wiring :yes"
Nice going Dave. Thanks for sharing
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(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia.jpg)
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Smashing !!!!
I want one :rockin smiley:
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I simply LUV the finished product. Woweeeeeeeee
Between you and Mr. Craig.... I'm flabbergasted
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Thanks Pantera,
Mr. Craig is the Master. I'm just a tinkerer.
He builds from scratch. Pure Genius.
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The Cat's Meow :rockin smiley:
Amazing Style and Performance
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Simply beautiful. Well done as usual breaktru :thumbsup:
Can I make phone calls too :laughing:
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where did you guys get the casing and the MCU circuit? :D
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Just a note:
Don't expect to vape at over 22 watts.
I stopped testing at 22.78 watts and 3.38A. I'm sure I can push it further with a lower ohm load. But.. why?
Remember, every connection and contact is a source of resistance. Switches have resistance so use higher rated ones of GOOD QUALITY. Cheap thin battery contacts are also a resistant point. 10 for $2 won't get you a quality part.
I used short 18 gauge wire on all heavy current paths and a good quality 20C rated battery. Remember, current is higher on the battery end than the output of the boost circuit so the battery has to be capable.
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True, true...
I'm in argue with one "funny" vaper, bought VMax.
It was "amazing peace of art" because doesn't have current limit and can handle over 2.5A!
So for him this is one and only mod with which he can vape favorite dual coil cart....on 24W ???
Tried to explain that this is a stupid, why he wants to make a "light bulb" for his mizer but.... opinion was neglected like uneducated silly words of crazy moder :)
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This is a good source to handle you dual coils
(http://i.minus.com/jpilkICQrWWk5.png) (http://minus.com/lpilkICQrWWk5)
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Don't expect to vape at over 22 watts.
Dang, I was dreaming of hot vaping at those wattages... :laughing2:
Good work dude, well done
Actually I wanted to vape at Craig's 40W +
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I'm amazed at how many asked (on several forums) how they can get these high results on their PTN04050c.
You can't vape at those levels so don't even think about it. Be happy with 12w max.
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I'm amazed at how many asked (on several forums) how they can get these high results on their PTN04050c.
You can't vape at those levels so don't even think about it. Be happy with 12w max.
Lot of people inta dry hits?
Dave, BTW looks cool.
fsors ;cheers;
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You can't vape at those levels so don't even think about it. Be happy with 12w max.
Sure you can;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbUsmvicseo
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Sure you can;
I stand corrected.
but I thought the Maximum wattage on The Darwin was 12.7 Watts ?
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Yes the Darwin is limited to 12.7W, but I'm not using a Darwin. To be honest, I probably would not use a double barrel cartomizer like that regularly. I did it more just to see. I figured it would produce double the vapor without the added heat of a dual coil cartomizer. It does. Though, one single coil cartomizer is pretty much sufficient for me.
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So what was that monster ???
Darwin box&display with Craig peace of art inside ?
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Boy am I a dummy, I didn't realize that the video was YOU using your PowerBlok. Thought it was someone using a Darwin.. :facepalm:
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Yep, that was me. I'm not so anonymous anymore :)
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So what was that monster ???
Darwin box&display with Craig peace of art inside ?
Check out Craig's "It's Alive" topic: HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,598.0.html)
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(http://breaktru.com/ecig/nokia_charge_led.gif)
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Sorry for this noob question. How do you program a chip? And how do you wire that nokia lcd? Can i use it on my okr-t chip? And bout my question in VF where did you get those oLED display man?
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Sorry for this noob question. How do you program a chip? And how do you wire that nokia lcd? Can i use it on my okr-t chip? And bout my question in VF where did you get those oLED display man?
My micro controller was programmed with Arduino which is a C language compiler
There are several sites for tutorials on the Nokia... I found it by Googling it.
You can use any DC converter. Here is the OKR-T/6: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,575.0.html (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,575.0.html)
oLED can be found at Adafruit
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Thanks for the quick response man! I guess i have to figure out how this micro controller works myself. Or you can lend me some knowledge of yours? :)
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Thanks for the quick response man! I guess i have to figure out how this micro controller works myself. Or you can lend me some knowledge of yours? :)
I posted this over at Vapers Forum for you...........
Being a green-horn to micro controllers, I did a lot of research and put in a lot of hours reading, tweaking code and parts values, filtering noise, yada, yada, yada... to get to what you see here. Maybe if I was a pro it would have been a snap.
So with that said... I hope you understand why I shouldn't just hand you my programming code, a detailed wiring schematic and where to buy each part.
Sorry dude
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It's still a lot of work even when it's something routine. There's always an amount of testing and tweaking that results in design changes. Just finding and selecting the best parts requires a good amount of effort. It's not like anyone can just whip out a design and produce a finished product on the first go. Making stuff like this is a lot of work no matter the level of expertise.
There are a lot of resources freely available on the internet. There's tons of books available as well. If someone wants to learn, the information is there. Better to design something yourself anyway. If you copy a design and don't understand how it works, you'll never be able to troubleshoot it.
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I do understand breaktru and craig. I look up on you both for Iam a fan of your works. Its not my intension to copy your works but to make one with my own designs. I'm just new to this micro controllers. I've been working on some modules for quite sometime now but not like this one. Maybe a little something to start with my research about this will be very much appreciated. Thank you guys!
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First you have to decide on the controller platform. There's tons of them out there. Arduino is popular, but it has its disadvantages. I use the Microchip PICs myself, but the Atmel AVRs are also popular.
The main thing I don't like about Arduino is it has a lot of overhead since it carries a bootloader and USB interface on-chip within every operating program. Though, there's a reason for it. Carrying that stuff on-chip simplifies the user interface making things more generic while flattening the learning curve. If you're willing to take on the steeper learning curve of a non-Arduino system, you have the benefit of a smaller, more compact platform. That's entirely up to you.
Any platform you choose will have a unique set of development tools. Basically, that consists of the IDE software (integrated development environment) and the programmer/debugger that allows you to connect to the chip to program it. You need to evaluate those differences. Again, the Arduino tools are oriented to simplicity, low expense (as in gratis), and a flatter learning curve. Though it's not a big outlay for AVR or PIC either. The software is free and the programmer/debuggers are about $50.
Another consideration is programming language. I'm big on ASM (assembly) and that is native to the Microchip MPLab or AVR Studio IDEs. The C complier is an add-on module. Arduino only accommodates the C programming language as far as I'm aware. If you want to use ASM, then a PIC or AVR may be a better choice. I like ASM better because it's right at the machine level. Programming in C is much more consice and less tedious, but you rely on the compiler to generate your machine code. You can produce faster, more efficient machine code using ASM.
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I see. I've been reading about this PIC microchip and still understanding more before working on it. So ASM is more compatible to it if i may say? Also i would like to ask, What are the tools i need when programming the micro controllers? I really appreciate it craig! Grab a beer here man! :laughing2: :)
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The C programming language is industry standard because it's highly modular. That makes it easy for people to work on projects at the group level and "plug-in" precompiled modules or libraries. Assembly's big advantage is that you can write tight efficient code since you're working at the machine level.
For a hobbyist, programming language not going to matter much, except with C, you can get canned drivers for things like LCDs and other components. Though, it can sometimes be a battle to get them working with your particular hardware. With ASM, you have to write drivers yourself, which is usually not a big deal. Though, writing a graphic display driver in ASM is quite a chore. My advice would be to try both and see what you prefer. I like assembly, but there's nothing wrong with coding in C either.
Arduino is a bit unique in that it carries most of the tools you need in software. All you need for that is a USB cable and the Arduino IDE. However, if you want to install the Arduino bootloader on a blank chip, then you need the programmer/debugger for that particular chip. Arduino is more a software platform than a hardware platform. There are several makes and models of micro-controller that can work with Arduino. Once the bootloader is installed into a micro-controller, it can be programmed as many times as required simply by plugging in a USB cable.
Then there are the rest. Any controller you use will require a make specific programmer/debugger to program the chip. You simply plug the programmer/debugger into your computer via USB then connect the the programmer/debugger to the chip via a connector on your project's PCB. You can also do that with a project on a breadboard. The common PCB interfaces are JTAG and ICSP. I use a simple pin header on the PCB or breadboard myself, but you can use pretty much any connector you like.
Every platform requires an IDE. This is the software package that allows you to write your code, debug it, compile it into machine code, then drive the programmer/debugger so you can program your chip. The IDE is unique to each maker, but there are generic open source tools you can use to cobble your own IDE together for several micro-controller makes. My recommendation is to just use the manufacturer's IDE. The more popular ones are free.
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Thanks for the info craig, its exactly what i need to start. Still want to know some more about the programming stuff. In breaktru's mod he uses an atmega328p and program it using C language. How about your powerblock what did you use for it? I'm planning to build a mod using dna12 just like your powerblock. Would this chip like breaktru is using would be compatible with the dna?
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I'm using a PIC24F with a PICkit2 programmer/debugger. That one is being phased out though. I'm using an older chip that is supported by the older programmer/debugger. New designs should be using the PICkit3.
Pretty sure Dave is using Arduino, but he should be able to tell you more specifically.
I've seen some home-grown mods that use AVR MCUs and even a TI MCU.
As far as the DNA, I now little about it so Dave would have to clue you in on that one.
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@craig Thanks so much fo all the info man!
@breaktru if i were to build a mod with a DNa just like yours what micro controller to use would you recommend that is easy to work on? What is the right value of the pot to use on the dna? Thanks in advance!
Please PM me.
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@craig Thanks so much fo all the info man!
@breaktru if i were to build a mod with a DNa just like yours what micro controller to use would you recommend that is easy to work on? What is the right value of the pot to use on the dna? Thanks in advance!
Please PM me.
Any MCU can be used with any DC Converter. Having only used the Arduino, I can't say which is easiest or best. I found a lot of information by Googling that lead me to use an Arduino.
The datasheet for their DNA can be found here --> Diagram and values are given. See: DATASHEET (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,588.msg4992.html#msg4992)
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I found that arduino is much easier to work with. I've been reading about it http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/ . I guess once i get the materials needed i will ask a lot of questions especially in programming/debugging. I hope it will not be too much for you. :)
Im going to order this hope its the right one http://www.adafruit.com/products/123
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I'm tempted to go thru my pile of old cell phones and rip the displays out for a mod :laughing:
Dam that looks good breaktru :thumbsup:
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I would love to have a mod with a display that shows everything on one display
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For sure, with how inexpenive small displays are, there's no reason not to. However, it does force you into a box mod style to accomodate the display. To fit that much information into a display that fits in a tube would require very small font. It seems to me that vapers tend to be older folks that don't have the greatest eyesight (myself included).
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Hi everyone, new guy looking to get into modding and been reading everything I can. After seeing some of the mods using Li-Po instead of Li-Ion I'm absolutely fascinated with that option. Is there any reason this cell couldn't be utilized?:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18594__Turnigy_5800mAh_1S_25C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
Thanks for the site Breaktru, it's been a huge pool of information along with all the stuff I've seen from you and Mamu on other forums
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You can use that cell if you like. Though, at one point I thought that having huge run time would be a big advantage. However, I've found it's not worth the cost in size and I've gone the other way now. My latest one will have 1400mAh. The thing is, if you use a flat cell, you're pretty much forced into a passthru system of charging. I found it's really not a big deal to "plug-in" which sort of negates the need for big run time.
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Hi everyone, new guy looking to get into modding and been reading everything I can. After seeing some of the mods using Li-Po instead of Li-Ion I'm absolutely fascinated with that option. Is there any reason this cell couldn't be utilized?:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18594__Turnigy_5800mAh_1S_25C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
Thanks for the site Breaktru, it's been a huge pool of information along with all the stuff I've seen from you and Mamu on other forums
Hey Copper welcome to the forum. There is some first time modders here that have posted some beautifully done mods. Very talented bunch. Not to mention some of the pros who made some fantastic stuff.
Yes that battery will do if you can house into a case. It's extremely long and a bit wide. I have the same only in 1000mah which is much smaller physically.
We would love to see your mods when you complete them. Every self made mod is a winner, even if you don't thinks so. Making something yourself is big achievement and something you should be proud of.
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working on a mod w a display myself...this coding for arduino is a real PITA...although seeing this has given me another idea as far as regulators to use...Def a beautiful mod Breaktru...looks like your doing the tight space work like I do...no room left in that case....
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working on a mod w a display myself...this coding for arduino is a real PITA...although seeing this has given me another idea as far as regulators to use...Def a beautiful mod Breaktru...looks like your doing the tight space work like I do...no room left in that case....
Thanks MMM, It was tight and squeezing it in without shorting out parts was a bitch. I had to file down a bit of the inside of the metal case and insulate the circuit boards and some of the PCB parts.
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for any finished mod unless it requires air contact I coat everthing w the bedliner spray...that works to keep away those pesky shorts
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Just made a new wick and coil for my Smoktek Vivi and it wouldn't fire in the DNA.
I put it in my Nokia w/ the PTN04050c and was getting over 6 amps. I looked at the resistance and it was measuring 0.5 ohms. Must have had a couple of windings touching. I since fixed the coil spacing and added two more windings around the wick and it's now at 1.5 ohms.
I am amazed that a PTN04050c can deliver 6 amps. I didn't look at the wattage but I'm thinking it was over 30 watts. Didn't want to run it again with that load to see all the results.
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Just made a new wick and coil for my Smoktek Vivi and it wouldn't fire in the DNA.
I put it in my Nokia w/ the PTN04050c and was getting over 6 amps. I looked at the resistance and it was measuring 0.5 ohms. Must have had a couple of windings touching. I since fixed the coil spacing and added two more windings around the wick and it's now at 1.5 ohms.
I am amazed that a PTN04050c can deliver 6 amps. I didn't look at the wattage but I'm thinking it was over 30 watts. Didn't want to run it again with that load to see all the results.
That 04050c has to be a design freak for sure. Wow-wee. Surprised it didn't cut out or blow something.
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I've been looking at this MCU Nokia mod thread for a couple of weeks now and I'm still amazed at it's beauty and performance.
The enclosures size and style and the Nokia display has me drooling. This is what I've been looking for. All the readings and settings displayed on ONE screen. I luv it. I would throw away every mod I own for something like this. ;bow;
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I've been looking at this MCU Nokia mod thread for a couple of weeks now and I'm still amazed at it's beauty and performance.
The enclosures size and style and the Nokia display has me drooling. This is what I've been looking for. All the readings and settings displayed on ONE screen. I luv it. I would throw away every mod I own for something like this. ;bow;
Ditto for me too
:thumbsup:
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Wow Breaktru has been busy since I've been gone! (Went to Africa, California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado) Fantastic work.
Great to be back and see all fantastic work you been up to.
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Wow Breaktru has been busy since I've been gone! (Went to Africa, California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado) Fantastic work.
Great to be back and see all fantastic work you been up to.
Thanks Ray, sounds like you've been busy yourself. Good to see you back here on the forum.
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Yes that battery will do if you can house into a case. It's extremely long and a bit wide. I have the same only in 1000mah which is much smaller physically.
We would love to see your mods when you complete them. Every self made mod is a winner, even if you don't thinks so. Making something yourself is big achievement and something you should be proud of.
Hi all, I am new to the forum and I am very happy to be here. I want to apologize about this thread revive but I have been researching on making a mod with the DNA20D soon to come. I was wondering do these batteries from hobby king have PCB in them or do I need to install it myself? I just want to make sure so I do it properly so I dont end up hurting myself or someone else.
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Hi redwolfe, welcome to the forum.
I don't know anything about the DNA, but it may have protection built-in which would eliminate the need to add it. You'll want to check that.
The hobby LiPos do not have any kind of protection built into them. There's protection PCBs you can add, but with a booster you have to avoid adding too much impedance inline with your power supply. You'll want a board that can handle pretty high currents, probably 10 Amps minimum, but higher is better.
The current draw from the cell at 20 Watts can be as high as 7 Amps so that's why you have to be aware of how much impedance you're introducing. For example, if you have internal cell impedance of 30 milliohms, protection PCB impedance of 30 milliohms, and wiring resistance of say 10 milliohms (which would be reasonable), under maximal loading you'll get a drop as high as a half volt at the DNA power input which can be a problem.
The bigger flat cells have lower internal impedance. For example the 20C 2200mAh cells have about 8 milliohms internal impedance which is extraordinarily low. The 1000mAh 20C flat cells have internal impedance about 25 milliohms which would be about the highest you want to go. I use a 1400mAh 10C flat cell with internal impedance about 30 milliohms and it's just under the wire.
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So according to what you said, would it be better to use 2 1000mah li-po cells in parallel rather than the single 2200mah by itself? The DNA boards do have protection built in but I still would rather make sure I can have the proper protection in there. Especially protection against over charging and under/over voltage protection.
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Two 1000mAh 20C cells in parallel would give you battery impedance about 12mOhms. One 2200mAh 20C cell is around 8 mOhms. Lower is better, but 12 mOhms is plenty low enough. Comparing the two configurations, it's more a matter of preferred dimensions. I would prefer thicker and shorter over longer and thinner myself.
The DNA has short circuit protection if I understand you correctly. That's really the main concern. It would expect it to handle discharge limits as well. Over-voltage protection is good to have, but it's better to use a reliable and robust charger then to add over-voltage protection inline with the battery. It just costs too much in terms of impedance. The only way you'll get an over-voltage condtion is if the charging circuit fails to regulate properly. If you use a good reliable charger, that's not going to happen.
The 20C flat cells are pretty tough, they don't blow up easily as some people would lead you to believe. The RC guys blow them up, but they load the crap out of them, pushing them way out of tolerance of charge and discharge rates. I've found them to be pretty tough when you don't push them to the extreme. I have one 2200mAh cell I use for testing that's been sitting on my desk for over a year. I beat the hell out of that thing. I charge it with 5A all the time and I've over-discharged it down to nothing a couple times. It still has most of its original charge capacity and looks no worse for wear (no bloating). It's a tough sucker.
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Speaking of blowing the Li-Po up, I came across this recently at a Hobby Shop. It's a Li-Po Bunker.
I think it's a rather EXTREME precaution.
(http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/lipobunker-sub1.jpg)
Here is the Description of the Bunker from the website:
There are only two times a battery can fail, during charge or discharge, and while you can not control what happens in your model you can control what happens during charging with the Turnigy Lipo Bunker.
Constructed from S304 certified stainless steel to withstand temperatures in excess of 800 degrees Celsius, the Turnigy lipo Bunker is a bullet proof safety enclosure designed to contain flames and help minimize damage to surrounding objects in the event of a lipoly failure. The duct will ensure heat, flames and gases being expelled from a lipoly battery will be vented in a direct and controlled manner.
Specs.
Case Material: S304 Certified Stainless Steel
Dimensions: 180mm x 90mm x 90mm
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Two 1000mAh 20C cells in parallel would give you battery impedance about 12mOhms. One 2200mAh 20C cell is around 8 mOhms. Lower is better, but 12 mOhms is plenty low enough. Comparing the two configurations, it's more a matter of preferred dimensions. I would prefer thicker and shorter over longer and thinner myself.
The DNA has short circuit protection if I understand you correctly. That's really the main concern. It would expect it to handle discharge limits as well. Over-voltage protection is good to have, but it's better to use a reliable and robust charger then to add over-voltage protection inline with the battery. It just costs too much in terms of impedance. The only way you'll get an over-voltage condtion is if the charging circuit fails to regulate properly. If you use a good reliable charger, that's not going to happen.
The 20C flat cells are pretty tough, they don't blow up easily as some people would lead you to believe. The RC guys blow them up, but they load the crap out of them, pushing them way out of tolerance of charge and discharge rates. I've found them to be pretty tough when you don't push them to the extreme. I have one 2200mAh cell I use for testing that's been sitting on my desk for over a year. I beat the hell out of that thing. I charge it with 5A all the time and I've over-discharged it down to nothing a couple times. It still has most of its original charge capacity and looks no worse for wear (no bloating). It's a tough sucker.
Thanks for your advice! I'm sure I will have plenty more questions in the near future. I may have been vaping for over 2 years but there's still plenty to learn. I ordered 6 of the 2200mah cells this morning and a DNA12 chip and the micro charger. Now to gather the rest of the components. I'll start a thread for the mod as soon as I have everything.
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Hi Again, Dave and all. Quick question for you. Its becoming time for me to gather parts for my next mod... Already have a couple of okr-t6 in various forms. Would like to try my hand at a ptn04050c with a turnigy cell and onboard charging. I have seen somwhere here a link to the 1aUSB charger. I even see you reference it in the nokia mcu mod specifically. The only problem I am having is finding that link. I thought for sure you had it somwhere around her actually posted . I have read nearly all the threads that make sense where it would be but still no dice...... I have found the 500/100mA sparkfun board, and it does apear that that is their top output available at this point. Point me in the right direction please. And Thank You .
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This is the one here;
https://www.adafruit.com/products/259
It's a nice unit. I believe it uses the Microchip MCP73833 charger controller which is one of the best ones you can get. It's a really nice full featured controller. It's the same one I use in my own mods.
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Thanks Craig. Since I have your ear for a moment, on this board would I want to actually use the load section or just insert it into my circuit parallel with the battery, If i plan on charging while vaping? I believe the load section would limit the output amperage too much to allow it to be vaped while charging. Or maybe it is actually just parallel on the board possibly? Having worked with this board what would you suggest? Thank you for your input as well as the link.
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Insert the board parallel with the battery. You don't want any of that crap in the way of the electrical path from your power supply. It's the same thing the board does, it just has a parallel connection on the PCB for convenience.
I haven't actually used that board, just the chip is uses.
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some great tips here guys, appreciate the hints ..:)
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Hi Breatru. Do you have any tutorials how to program an lcd/oled display to be used for ecig? I have lots of nokia lcd's from my old phones and I really want to use them on my vv mod.
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Hi Breatru. Do you have any tutorials how to program an lcd/oled display to be used for ecig? I have lots of nokia lcd's from my old phones and I really want to use them on my vv mod.
That LCD is available here with example coding links https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10168
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Very good RedWolfe
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If anyone is interested, I've made few years ago a mikroC library for PIC chips for Nokia 3310 screens. It was designed to be used with 16F628A, but should work with other 16F serie chips, too. It is under LGPL v3. You can download it from here (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20190717/electronics/N3310LCD-1.0.7z) :)
Sample application, using the library is here (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20190717/electronics/Termometr-1.0.7z).
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(http://breaktru.com/ecig/nokia_charge_led.gif)
You drive me crazy with this one!
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You drive me crazy with this one!
glad you like it. It works really well. It puts out more wattage than my 30Watt Buck mods
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Lately I have been experiencing a blank Display. Applying finger pressure to the top middle portion of the Nokia 5110 frame brings back the display.
The 5110 is a good display except for the design of the display gum connector to the PCB contact pads which makes contact using pressure.
To fix this weak design I did the following..... (photos visible to members)
- Remove the metal frame that is over the display by bending the 4 tabs straight and pry up gently
- On the PCB, tin the contact pads with solder to slightly build up the pads which will add more pressure to the display gum connector
- Place the frame back over display and place on the PCB
- While squeezing the frame and PCB, slightly twist the frame locking tabs while maintaining pressure
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Lately I have been experiencing a blank Display. Applying finger pressure to the top middle portion of the Nokia 5110 frame brings back the display.
The 5110 is a good display except for the design of the display gum connector to the PCB contact pads which makes contact using pressure.
way to go on figuring out a simple fix for this.
if you ever need any more of these displays just hit me up, i have about 15 of those old phones along with quite a few other models that are just collecting dust
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This mod has a AtMega328p micro-controller with a Nokia cell phone display. It is powered by a 20C Lithium-Polymer battery. The boost circuit is the good ole PTN04050C.
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/mcu_nokia00.jpg)
Would love to build one of these...where can I find the parts? dig-key? and how do I program the nokia display.....
:begging:
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Awesome mod!
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freaked_out: all of you doing this level of moding is what attracted me to the site and i am in aww of the advanced mods being made here, i have been tinkering for over a year on my own and now i feel like a complete noob, i love to feel dumb since it drives me to learn more and push myself to the next level, ty so much for all the knoledge shared in this forum !!!!! ;cheers;
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Glad to have you aboard Okie. Welcome.
We have some great talented members here as well as many noobs.
I consider myself a noob too when it comes to micro-controllers. Most of what I do with the MCU is trial, error and code tweaking. Nothing works perfect on the first go. Anyway, it's fun to play around although at times frustrating.
I'm sure you will do just fine.
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yea well, as for trial and error i seem to be on the error side more than not, but i learn a bit more every time i see smoke in the box lol. anyway, i am disabled and my brain and 1 hand seems to be my best asset right now and i have nothing but time and ambution so modding seemed to fall right into place since the first 4 aa mech i made due to cigalikes just didnt do it for me, been vaping for 3 years in no mans land, first ego shop opend up in driving distance of me less than a year ago.
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This is the one here;
https://www.adafruit.com/products/259
It's a nice unit. I believe it uses the Microchip MCP73833 charger controller which is one of the best ones you can get. It's a really nice full featured controller. It's the same one I use in my own mods.
Apologies for pulling out a pretty old thread but this seemed like one of the better ones for my question. I am in the planning/ordering stages of a Raptor build (chip ordered and obviously waiting on restock). While planning, I'm also debating battery selection. I would like to use LiPos. Would the charging board in the link above be able to charge 2 3.7V LiPos in series properly? It is my (possibly incorrect) understanding that a USB charge board wouldn't really be a good choice for trying to charge a 2S (7.4V) LiPo, not to mention you start to get a little too big size wise for a decent mah 2S.
Thanks for any advice you wonderful (and much smarter) folks can offer
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A USB charger can only charge one cell or mulitple cells in parallel. For series cells you have to use a balance charger like this;
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49338__Turnigy_E3_Compact_2S_3S_Lipo_Charger_100_240v_US_Plug_.html
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That's what I figured. I've already been looking at that charger and figured that wouldbe the route I would need to take but wanted to ask before ordering anything else.
Thanks Craig
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Easiest thing to do there is just use the hobby LiPo stuff. Use a battery like this;
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8933__Turnigy_2200mAh_2S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html
Mount the battery's charging cable so it's accessible from outside the mod and use cables like the ones below to connect the balance charger.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9735__JST_XH_2S_Wire_Extension_20cm_10pcs_bag_.html
You can find the pins and connectors if you want to make your own cables, here's some on eBay;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-2S-3-Pin-JST-XH-LiPo-Balance-Connectors-w-Pins-/301099889319
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Has anyone wired up their own LiPo charger using a MAX1811? seems like a fairly straightforward little chip.
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I use a Microchip MCP73833 on my controller boards and those run off a LiPo. I also have a box mod I do with a couple parallel 18650s and those use the same charger controller chip.
USB charger controllers are sort of a dime a dozen. They all work pretty much the same, they only have more or less features from one to the next.
That Maxim part you mentioned looks like it should work well. You want the thermally enhanced part for a 1A rate which there's no reason not to use. If you try to get a 1A rate without the thermal conductivity you need, the part will go into thermal limiting and you won't get your full rate.
One issue with that Maxim part is it uses an SO package which can be good or bad. Good if you want a large part that's easy to install, bad if you want to conserve space on a PCB. The thermally enhanced MCP73833 I use is literally 1/4 the size of that Maxim charger controller.
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Thanks Craig. Sounds reasonable.
Been looking up SMD component codes to see what parts I have laying around, and aside from the eye strain my brain feels about ready to explode.
I saw a YT review on the max1811 and it looked neat, then I realized that the USB charger I had for my old 510 sticks had a PCB inside that was slightly shorter than a USB-B plug... so I'll settle for 500mA charge, and a form factor that's difficult to beat for $2.99...
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You know you can get those Chinese USB chargers for like a buck a piece from Fasttech. Someone posted to the links to those in the forum here. The only reason not to use a little charger board like that is if you want to integrate a USB charger into a whole e-cig controller board.
The Microchip part is the best controller chip I've found in terms of features. TI makes some good ones too. They have one that is 40V tolerant which is really nice since you don't have to worry about protecting the chip from power surges. That's always a consideration for stuff that plugs into the wall or especially if it runs off a cig lighter plug in the car. Automotive electrical systems are harsh.
I use a TVS diode for surge suppression on the USB plug for my boards, would be nice not to need that. However, the Microchip part is really easy to use and has the exact features I want so I live with it, would be nice if it was surge proof though. They all should be that way IMO.
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I concur those chips work great just wanna tinge more mA but its cool.
hoping they soon put the same charging chips they have for the cna20's up for sale they are uber tiny and a tinge more mA.. :thumbsup:
Batts get every last drop of life with em too so good trade off,
time vs timespanning vs fastidiousness vs buy new batts cause charge cycles build high IR, win win lol
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WOW!!! That is nice.
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I use a Microchip MCP73833 on my controller boards and those run off a LiPo.
You want the thermally enhanced part for a 1A rate which there's no reason not to use. If you try to get a 1A rate without the thermal conductivity you need, the part will go into thermal limiting and you won't get your full rate.
happy to see that i designed a Charger board using the same controller advised by you Craig haha. i searched for some time before i came up with the decision to use it, there's a lot of 0.5A controller but not much for 1A, especially the simple ones.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52287186/Forum/Charger1A.jpg)
it is true about the thermal limiting, once i tested the 1A Charger i made, it became hot and stopped working. after it has cooled down, it is working back again. the controller suspends charge if the temperature exceeds 150degree. but until now, i haven't able to make it hot again, not sure why it happened previously...
however, seems like i missed about the thermally enhanced part, is there a special revision for this controller? or do you mean that the thermal conductivity is dependent on your PCB layout design?
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For the 1A rate, you need to use the DFN package which has the exposed die on bottom. You make a pad for it on the PCB with a couple vias to the ground plane to provide good thermal performance. The part number I use is MCP73833-FCI/MF.
I've done a lot testing with that part properly mounted to the ground plane. At a 1A rate, it can usually handle a 1.4V differential between USB input and battery voltage before it goes into thermal limiting.
For example, if your USB input voltage is 5V at the controller (it's typically lower), you'll come out of thermal limiting when battery voltage rises above 3.6V. Though even when the chip is thermally limited, the rate usually doesn't fall below 800mA.
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ATMega328p AVR
Nokia 5110 Graphic Display
PTN04050C
20C lithium polymer 3.7 battery
1 amp USB Charger
100 Amp Sensor
Parallel 5.1A PTC resettable fuses
How did you get your ACS712 (100 amp sensor) to work off of a lipo (3~3.7v) supply when it requires 5v? What are you using this measurement for?
I intend to use the internal 1.1 volt reference voltage (http://wp.josh.com/2014/11/06/battery-fuel-guage-with-zero-parts-and-zero-pins-on-avr/) to monitor the battery power. How are you measuring yours?
I intend to use a 10ohm voltage divider circuit (http://learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Arduino-ohmmeter.php) to measure my my coil resistance. How are you measuring yours?
On a lighter note... Don't you just love the new OLEDs coming out of China? Good Riddance, HD44780, Nokia 3310/5110, and KS0108 LCDs. I won't miss you.
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How did you get your ACS712 (100 amp sensor) to work off of a lipo (3~3.7v) supply when it requires 5v? What are you using this measurement for?
I intend to use the internal 1.1 volt reference voltage (http://wp.josh.com/2014/11/06/battery-fuel-guage-with-zero-parts-and-zero-pins-on-avr/) to monitor the battery power. How are you measuring yours?
I intend to use a 10ohm voltage divider circuit (http://learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Arduino-ohmmeter.php) to measure my my coil resistance. How are you measuring yours?
On a lighter note... Don't you just love the new OLEDs coming out of China? Good Riddance, HD44780, Nokia 3310/5110, and KS0108 LCDs. I won't miss you.
I use this tiny 5V boost reg --> HERE (http://www.pololu.com/product/2115) for the ACS712 but later switched to the ACS711 which can operate on 3v to 5.5v HERE (http://www.pololu.com/product/2452)
Using precise amperage readings w/ the current sensor and a voltage divider on an analog input for output voltage readings, I use code to calculate resistance (code tweaking required). All readings are quite accurate thru the full output voltage range and also tested with various resistive loads.
I use a voltage divider and analog input for measuring battery voltage.
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This mod looks awesome !!!
Can you share schematics, PCB files and firmware source code ? I want to build mine =)
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Nice one, looks good :)
:rockin smiley: