Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Battery => Topic started by: Lee1111 on December 06, 2013, 02:02:37 AM
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I was given an iTaste MVP in non working condition. I replaced the stock battery with a 18650. I believe it will fit back in the case, too. It now functions normally (except the on/off switch - just read that's for the USB port to charge other devices), with the exception that the charging board doesn't seem to be working. It's been a very long time since I've put a multimeter on a board to test down to component level. I've taken a picture of the front and back. I'm hoping someone can tell me where to begin troubleshooting this.
I guess at a minimum, I'll end up putting the guts in a box mod where I can take the battery out to charge it. There's nothing wrong with the original case, so I'd very much like to get this working. Well, I am missing the buttons to work the up/down(?) tactile switches. I'm guessing I can find a work around for that though. Not entirely sure what those two buttons do, going to read the manual after I post this.
Please ignore my rusty soldering job :facepalm:
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It would be hard to trouble shoot the charging circuit without a schematic and part number. It can be a bad chip or bad associated part. Is there a part number on the chips at U1 and U2 ?
MANUAL (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CE4QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.meshweaver.com%2Ftemp%2Fvaping%2FINNOKIN_ITASTE_MVP_USER_MANUAL.pdf&ei=KuuhUuTpGKqosQSXmIH4BA&usg=AFQjCNFBz1IDiDaxb0jNH0sfPwnz8UxLwg&bvm=bv.57752919,d.cWc&cad=rja)
Do you know where and how the buttons are wired?
One more thing to check. The USB connector is a weak point in some charging problems. Examine the pin connections with a magnifier and see if you can notice a broken solder connection on the PCB board or maybe a crack or separation of the PCB trace.
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You may be right breaktru about the USB connector.
I found this that may help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnN9iBXm-Cw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnN9iBXm-Cw)
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Ok so u1 was extremely hard to read, evenw ith a magnifying glass and a LED flashlight. I believe it says
IP4Q56
1319
I'm not sure if the first letter is an i, T, or a one. Also in the 1319, I'm not 100% sure that is a 3. It could be a 6, 8,or 9.
On u2,it was mucheas ier. It says AL384
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Here are the front and back of the other two boards
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Ok so u1 was extremely hard to read, evenw ith a magnifying glass and a LED flashlight. I believe it says
IP4Q56
1319
I'm not sure if the first letter is an i, T, or a one. Also in the 1319, I'm not 100% sure that is a 3. It could be a 6, 8,or 9.
On u2,it was mucheas ier. It says AL384
I can't find those numbers or a variation of those numbers anywhere.
I looked closely at the pins on the U1 chip and it looks like there is a cold or broken solder connection on pin 4. The other side of the board is where the USB +5v input is soldered to. Check it out w/ a magnifier.
Pin 1 is near the dot indentation on the chip and there is also a "1" written on the PCB next to pin 1.
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Thanks BreakTru. I'll give it a look when I get time. I work weekends
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Sorry haven't gotten to this yet. Kids are here this week. Hard to have my workspace cluttered when they're here. They actually expect to eat at the kitchen table, wtf.