Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Breaktru on January 15, 2014, 08:43:39 AM
-
Well I can finally post this now that evolv has the DNA 30D for sale on their web site.
Here is the datasheet --> http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30.pdf (http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30.pdf)
(3) C&K tact switches
(2) LiPo 20C parallel batteries (2000mAh)
1 Amp USB charger
Harmond Enclosure 1455
Screen Cradle - mamu/bapgood
(http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_14.jpg) (http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_13.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_01.jpg) (http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_02.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_05.jpg) (http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_06.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_07.jpg) (http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_08.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_09.jpg) (http://breaktru.com/dna30/dna30_10.jpg)
-
http://youtu.be/Vg4I8KQEpQg (http://youtu.be/Vg4I8KQEpQg)
-
That a cool looking mod one of many youve built, your a insperation to us :rockin smiley:
-
Love it Breaktru, it looks fantastic :rockin smiley:
-
Awesome Breaktru, but they are out of stock right now on Evolv. Kind of sucks too because I would have bought 2 chips already.
-
Awesome Breaktru, but they are out of stock right now on Evolv. Kind of sucks too because I would have bought 2 chips already.
Of course they are out of stock. As soon as I posted this, they sold out.
-
Well I cleared my browser cache and refreshed the site and they came back in. I ordered 2 chips so yay. Lol
-
Well I cleared my browser cache and refreshed the site and they came back in. I ordered 2 chips so yay. Lol
Good for you RW
-
Awesomesauce breaktru - absolutely awesome!! :thumbsup:
love love love your mod and the video too!!
-
Looks good breaktru :thumbsup:
-
Awesomesauce breaktru - absolutely awesome!! :thumbsup:
love love love your mod and the video too!!
Thanks mamu. I'm awful at making videos. I always rush things and usually don't plan them out well.
I should have taken more time at perfecting the 0.5 dripper setup and got it working better before videoing it.
-
It's a beauty. Pretty amazing a board that size can put out 30 Watts. Cool video. You did a hell of lot better on that video then I could ever do so no complaints from my end.
-
Awesome build, Breaktru! I can't imagine ever needing 30 watts but you never know. Like the video, too.
-
Awesome build, Breaktru! I can't imagine ever needing 30 watts but you never know. Like the video, too.
If someone gave you a 200 mph Lamborghini but you can only drive it in city traffic, would you take it?
-
Wow, that's sweet!! When did you get the chip? Look like the DNA30 will be a game changer!
*rushes off to look at datasheet*
-
Wow, that's sweet!! When did you get the chip? Look like the DNA30 will be a game changer!
*rushes off to look at datasheet*
Got it about the 3rd week of December. Couldn't mention it though. Mamu got one too. Bet her's will be a sweet build as usual.
-
If someone gave you a 200 mph Lamborghini but you can only drive it in city traffic, would you take it?
Of course. And if Brandon sent me a DNA 30 I would take it. I would have to sell or give away the Lamborghini though, can you imagine how much the insurance would cost. :D
-
Yeah, it's out of stock....anyone know the price? It doesn't say the price when it's OOS.
-
Yeah, it's out of stock....anyone know the price? It doesn't say the price when it's OOS.
Good question I was wondering the same thing.
-
Yeah, it's out of stock....anyone know the price? It doesn't say the price when it's OOS.
Same price that the DNA 20 was. $49.95
-
awesome enclosure, i think i found it. gonna order a few of those, looks like such a perfect size. thanks for all you do break!! also, great music in all your vids.
-
awesome enclosure, i think i found it. gonna order a few of those, looks like such a perfect size. thanks for all you do break!! also, great music in all your vids.
I just want you to know that this was the hardest mod stuffing that I have ever done. Send the children out of the room when putting it together.
I had to file the inside side walls down a lot. It took a long time to do it.
Inserting the Display was a real bitch. Lots of cursing there.
I am giving you a heads up, breaking the display ribbon is a HIGH probability.
I was seriously thinking of cutting the enclosure in two parts for ease of building.
Oh, and one more thing. Did you notice the plastic pins that hold on the bottom plate. That's so you don't pierce the li-po's with the mounting screws.
-
oh man, starting to rethink....thanks for the heads up.
-
I'm good at cursing and stuffing 10lbs in a 5lb sack :D
So hookup the link to the box....please.... :begging:
Oh and here also....Great job breaktru!!! :applaude:
My 30 is just setting on the bench....but I'm hoping that changes over the weekend
-
Break your design button placement, enclosure, thats it. ;bow;
Its on the money..
Hella hard not being able to talk about things isn't it... lol
-
So Evolv didn't beef up the ribbon cable on the 30? I thought they would. oh_my:
-
Same cable and display
-
Got a DNA30 on the way!!!!! Can't wait!! Got my box ready with 5800mah worth of battery life. I'll post build pics of this one for sure!!
-
Thanks methos. Can't wait to see it
-
Break I noticed your IGO-l doesn't have the o-ring top adjust hack, it makes it so much better.
Use one of the extra orings all the way down on the flared base it gives ya 3-4mm more to height of deck. Makes it look cooler too..
You can also use an old oring off a ce4+ the clear small oring in their base will work as well
Makes for super easy wiggle top removal too..
Why they put the airhole so close to the deck is ???? why did ya do that IGO-L people lol..
Perhaps your fine with it oem
nvr mind if so lol :thumbsdwn:
-
Thanks for the heads up on the IGO-L
I only used it to test the 0.5 ohm coil. I really don't use it at all. My dripping days are over.
I'm loving the Kayfun Clone. So far it's the best thing I've every tried.
-
If you love the kayfun clone then you need to get a Taifun GT clone and you will forget what a kayfun even is.
I try to convince everyone I know to try the Taifun GT. But don't take my word for it, ask Brandon. He is a recent convert.
-
If you love the kayfun clone then you need to get a Taifun GT clone and you will forget what a kayfun even is.
I try to convince everyone I know to try the Taifun GT. But don't take my word for it, ask Brandon. He is a recent convert.
Thanks Bradey. I'll have to check it out. I watched a couple of videos for the Taifun. Did you have a lot of experimenting with the coil/wick build to get it right?
-
Dang! Breaktru. You did it again :rockin smiley:
-
Thanks Bradey. I'll have to check it out. I watched a couple of videos for the Taifun. Did you have a lot of experimenting with the coil/wick build to get it right?
lol....I'm not the best person to ask about experimenting, because I always seem to be experimenting :D
But I can say my very first build was awesome. It is my all day every day atty, two of them go pretty much everywhere with me. Originally I bought an authentic one, then the clones came out and I got a couple of them so I could leave one or two setup and have one to experiment with. I have had some bad builds, the trick seems to be getting the right amount of wick in both the coil and the atty chamber sleeve channels.
Right now my standard build is a ~1.5? 9 wrap 29g kanthal micro coil wrapped around a 16g hypo needle (~1.5mm). For the wick I'm using 12 strand hemp thread (extremely thoroughly washed), I'm running 10 strands thru the coil and out the slots, then on each side of the coil I'm running another 10 strand on top of the wick out the slots. The clones come with a 1.5mm air tube and the authentic comes with a 1.2mm air tube, the air tubes can changed out. Depending on the air tube and etc I will change the amount of additional strands I add.
-
Awesome job. Is that one of those inexpensive charging boards from eBay? I was considering that with an acrylic rod for the led as well. Is the heatshrink on it to avoid brightness loss where the epoxy touches it?
-
Yes you can get those 1A chargers on ebay for a buck and change. That is 3 tiny fiber-optic stands I pulled off of something but I have used monofiliment (fishing line) in past chargers. No heat sink. The epoxy holds the shrink tubing I have over the fiber-optics in place.
-
lol....I'm not the best person to ask about experimenting, because I always seem to be experimenting :D
But I can say my very first build was awesome. It is my all day every day atty, two of them go pretty much everywhere with me. Originally I bought an authentic one, then the clones came out and I got a couple of them so I could leave one or two setup and have one to experiment with. I have had some bad builds, the trick seems to be getting the right amount of wick in both the coil and the atty chamber sleeve channels.
Right now my standard build is a ~1.5? 9 wrap 29g kanthal micro coil wrapped around a 16g hypo needle (~1.5mm). For the wick I'm using 12 strand hemp thread (extremely thoroughly washed), I'm running 10 strands thru the coil and out the slots, then on each side of the coil I'm running another 10 strand on top of the wick out the slots. The clones come with a 1.5mm air tube and the authentic comes with a 1.2mm air tube, the air tubes can changed out. Depending on the air tube and etc I will change the amount of additional strands I add.
Great. Thanks for the pointers. Sounds awesome
-
Nicely done break. Love the video too ;bow;
-
Wonderful job break. I like that case that you put it in. Looks like a tight squeeze :applaude:
-
How hard would it be to build a tube mod using the DNA30?
I'm thinking with the right planning you could make a nice device.
-
How hard would it be to build a tube mod using the DNA30?
I'm thinking with the right planning you could make a nice device.
I have seen some nice looking tube mods done. But IMHO they are just to long and top heavy and always want to tip over.
-
I've had my eye on the Futura but I've already spent too much on a Provari (what's up with the Italian sounding names?) Plus, I'd really like to build a mod. I'm fond of tube mods; and I don't have issues if it's a little longer than the Provari with 18650. Plus why get DNA20 when you can get DNA30!
I do have a follow up question. I would have started a new post on this but I couldn't figure out how to create a new post. Are there any existing boost circuits on the forum that can fire sub-ohm and be fitted into a tube mod? Oh, and is there a tutorial on making a tube mod?
-
Thurge, check out this thread for a VV tube mod:
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?topic=170.0
-
Thanks Kortt, I have looked at that VV Mod it's very slick. The problem is I'm more interested in a single battery mod. I have 4 18650's so I'm only interested in a single battery, tube design, boost circuit based mod that will aesthetically work with 22mm RBAs/RDAs. It would be great if it can do up to 5 amps and 30 or so watts. Am I being unrealistic? Can this be done?
-
Should be no problem. The DNA30 is only 16.5mm wide and 33mm long. You can use a tube with 22mm OD and fit the DNA30 inside of it. It would be a bit long, over 100mm, but it would be no problem to build it.
You could do a shorter one using an IMR18500. You would end up with a mod under 100mm in length. An IMR 18500 can supply the maximal 12 Amp draw of the DNA30. It would be pushing the limit of an IMR 18500, but should work and without safety concerns.
-
Sorry Thurge, I posted the wrong link....this is the one I meant to post. Breaktru is using a ptn04050c module with 1 battery in his tube mod:
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,177.0.html
As Craig says though, the DNA30 might be a wise choice as well. (This is a DNA30 thread after all :) )
-
I've managed to get my hands on a DNA 30, well, it's on the way. I noticed that in breaktru's box the display has been turn around 180`... Is that going to cause an issue in the long run with the ribbon cable? Also, I'm wondering if that's possible to do in a 3/4" ID tube? Great work as always Mr. Breaktru!!! :thumbsup:
-
Great work I should say. What PCBs are you using?
Edited by Breaktru:
THIS MEMBER IS FROM INDIA ADVERTISING A CALIFORNIA PCB MANUFACTURER
-
I've managed to get my hands on a DNA 30, well, it's on the way. I noticed that in breaktru's box the display has been turn around 180`... Is that going to cause an issue in the long run with the ribbon cable? Also, I'm wondering if that's possible to do in a 3/4" ID tube? Great work as always Mr. Breaktru!!! :thumbsup:
The board is mounted horizontally and so is the display. The display is parallel to the board.
The DNA 30 and 20 is made for a tube and yes it will fit a 3/4" tube
-
Great work I should say. What PCBs are you using?
Thanks afex. PCB as in Protection Circuit for the batteries? I'm using (2) SMD 7A hold, 6v PTC fuses. One in each positive leg of Li-Po batteries.
-
The board is mounted horizontally and so is the display. The display is parallel to the board.
The DNA 30 and 20 is made for a tube and yes it will fit a 3/4" tube
So putting a 180` bend on the ribbon cable inside a 3/4" copper tube will not stress it too much? I'm assuming it has the flexibility of the type of ribbon cable that you would find attached to laptop keyboard then.
-
The ribbon is very flexible.. I've broken the screen off before though.
-
So putting a 180` bend on the ribbon cable inside a 3/4" copper tube will not stress it too much? I'm assuming it has the flexibility of the type of ribbon cable that you would find attached to laptop keyboard then.
In a tube, you will fold the display over the board where the back of the display sits on top of the Inductor. A piece of double sided foam tape should be used to hold the back of the display to the inductor.
Like this --> HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,709.msg5710.html#msg5710)
It should not put stress on the cable.
-
In a tube, you will fold the display over the board where the back of the display sits on top of the Inductor. A piece of double sided foam tape should be used to hold the back of the display to the inductor.
Like this --> HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,709.msg5710.html#msg5710)
It should not put stress on the cable.
That's what I wanted to hear.... Thanks Breaktru!!
-
Thanks afex. PCB as in Protection Circuit for the batteries? I'm using (2) SMD 7A hold, 6v PTC fuses. One in each positive leg of Li-Po batteries.
Can I use 2 RUEF700 in parallel? They have same amps specs but 30V instead of 6V.
I am building my first mod and I think it's hard to solder those small ones you used...
-
Can I use 2 RUEF700 in parallel? They have same amps specs but 30V instead of 6V.
I am building my first mod and I think it's hard to solder those small ones you used...
The physical size of the PTC is 25.9 mm L x 19.1 mm W x 3 mm H. It's a rather large one, unless you have the space to wire it in.
The 30mOhms is pretty high as well.
The smd types are nice and compact and not all that hard to solder.
I don't see a problem using a higher voltage rating.
Here is one that's like yours and smaller in size as well as lower resistance at 20mOhms HERE (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RGEF600/RGEF600-ND/1045834) and also HERE (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/RGEF700/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgjL4JkW1EEVNr4NcEMyYyo1m4FRhTiCI%3d)
Here is a strap PTC HERE (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/LR4-550F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgjL4JkW1EEVNr4NcEMyYyILCQRzDiIZA%3d)
Check out Mamu's PTC write up HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,723.msg11488.html#msg11488)
-
I didn't check the physical size... Indeed is way too large for my planned box. Thanks for pointing that out :)
-
how do you mount the pcb mount tactile switch to the case?
-
how do you mount the pcb mount tactile switch to the case?
External tacts were used for a case/box mod
-
do you have the supplier and part number for the switches?
-
do you have the supplier and part number for the switches?
Any Tactile switch will do but if you are talking about the switches I used for this mod then SEE HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1040.0.html)
-
hi breaktru..im now have a chip dna 30,hammond box,battery efest 18650 x2 rated 35A each..i juz wanna ask how do i parallel those battery?what fuse should i use?ive seen many tutorial n pic but still cant understand how..can u provide some callculation about my setup and how i parallel my battery since this gonna blow my if i do mistake about choosing fuse
-
hi breaktru..im now have a chip dna 30,hammond box,battery efest 18650 x2 rated 35A each..i juz wanna ask how do i parallel those battery?what fuse should i use?ive seen many tutorial n pic but still cant understand how..can u provide some callculation about my setup and how i parallel my battery since this gonna blow my if i do mistake about choosing fuse
See mamu's write up --> PTC fuses (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,723.msg11488.html#msg11488) Scroll down to "Boost converter with 12A max input current"
Paralleling is connecting #1 battery positive to #2 battery positive and connecting #1 battery negative to #2 battery negative.
-
wow thats great how do you build one
-
Congratulations! Looks really good how did you! :yes"
-
Hey breaktru, where can i get that battery??
-
You can obtain these batteries from a hobby store. They are used in R/C models.
I bought mine from Hobbyking
-
very cool :rockin smiley:
-
Great job on the mod! Looks clean I'm working on mine as well. I should have some photos later this week.
Question... Did you have to fabricate your display window/cradle or is there a website/place I can purchase one. this is the only thing I do not have planned out.. any help would be great!
-
Great job on the mod! Looks clean I'm working on mine as well. I should have some photos later this week.
Question... Did you have to fabricate your display window/cradle or is there a website/place I can purchase one. this is the only thing I do not have planned out.. any help would be great!
Welcome to the forum.
Thank you. See this for the DNA Display Housing (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1044.0.html)
-
I have a bunch of new products in my Shapeways store https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood
-
I have a bunch of new products in my Shapeways store https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood
That's fantastic baps. This will help a lot of modders. :applaude:
I'm assuming you made the charger port hole for the DNA charger (micro) and not for the 1A mini port.
(http://usbtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/microUSB-vs-miniUSB.jpg)
-
That's fantastic baps. This will help a lot of modders. :applaude:
I'm assuming you made the charger port hole for the DNA charger (micro) and not for the 1A mini port.
(http://usbtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/microUSB-vs-miniUSB.jpg)
I still need to go in and add some pictures/descriptions/etc. But everything with a light pipe hole is for the DNA charger and everything without is for the MICRO 1amp USB charger.
-
I still need to go in and add some pictures/descriptions/etc. But everything with a light pipe hole is for the DNA charger and everything without is for the MICRO 1amp USB charger.
My 1 amp's are Mini. Which ones did you get?
-
I got mine here http://www.ebay.com/itm/221355237744?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
But if your patient you can get them cheaper from china.
-
got mine from here
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1005/10005926/1453504
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1005/10005926/1585501
free shipping anywhere in the world.and i usually buy 10 at a time just so the wait is worth it.
-
I got mine here http://www.ebay.com/itm/221355237744?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
But if your patient you can get them cheaper from china.
I didn't realize they made the same charger in Micro and Mini. I like the Mini because it's beefier. I have a bunch of the 1A in Mini
-
Not a misprint....I thought everyone was using these :lol:
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/20C0832F-86EF-4CD6-BC0A-CE15F05BC86A_zpsqw8g0kdk.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/20C0832F-86EF-4CD6-BC0A-CE15F05BC86A_zpsqw8g0kdk.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/DE625E35-1C9A-43B0-B86B-03D326F7AB8F_zpsxacpvjra.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/DE625E35-1C9A-43B0-B86B-03D326F7AB8F_zpsxacpvjra.jpg.html)
-
I caught that before you posted. Yes I see there are two styles
-
Haha...yeah the mini are beefier, but I don't have any mini cords anymore and I already have too many cords to deal with.
If there is something in particular you want with the mini cutout, just let me know It shouldn't be hard make a new one with a mini cutout.
-
No baps I just wanted to find out what it was. I do have some Micro DNA's left.
I love the face plate but in SS the cost is a little out of my price range.
-
Great share! Baps any way to speed up shipping? 1 month lead time seems kinda long... I wanna put an order in soon if there's a way to expedite?
-
I have no control over lead time. Shapeways determins that. A month seems a little excessive, even for metal and other longer lead materials. Stuff usually ships out a little ahead of schedule, I just had some metal parts ship a week ahead of schedule. Also paying the extra $3 for 2 day shipping has become the norm for me.
-
Thanks! Going to put that order in tonight anyways! Parts look great so it will be worth the wait...
-
Thanks! I'm going to put my order in tonight! Parts look great so it will be worth the wait!
-
I like the Mini because it's beefier.
I don't like the micros either. The minis are tougher, but even so those tiny contacts are kind of hard pressed when pulling an Amp through them.
What I've been doing is I use all the pins for power and ground, 1, 2, and 3 are wired to positive. 4, 5, and the shield are wired to ground. Of course you have wire the whole thing that way. The mini-B sockets are soldered to the PCB with that pin-out and I make my own cables accordingly, but it's compatible with a regular cable so the charger will still work with a standard cable if it has to.
Doing my USB connections that way seems to handle the 1A draw nicely. In the couple three years I've been charging using a USB connection, I have yet to have one wear out or get flakey on me. They've actually held up surprisingly well. If they can hold up to my wife's abuse, they can hold up to anything.
-
And I do say about these loaders: larger plate has two advantages, exit 1A toward 0, 5A remove the cat from Evolv, and very low price of $ 1.
With a dremel can very easily cut out mini-usb connector on the motherboard (socket can be mounted separately anywhere with threads of connection), and the charger itself remains as small as the one from Evolv. In addition, if you want you can replace LEDs on the motherboard with 1, 8 mm LEDs you can mount wherever you want.
I like that I used and am very pleased with the results.
-
What is the part number and maker of that project box?
-
I ordered some, but they were rounded sides.
-
Hey guys im new here and im in the process of getting up my materials for my first mod build. I plan on doing a dna 30 setup.
I have a question if you guys dont mind helping me with.
1. Im wanting to use a lipo battery What type of setup would i need to run a high mah battery like 4400 or 5600 and will the charger that evolv sells be ok to use with or no.
-
Hey guys im new here and im in the process of getting up my materials for my first mod build. I plan on doing a dna 30 setup.
I have a question if you guys dont mind helping me with.
1. Im wanting to use a lipo battery What type of setup would i need to run a high mah battery like 4400 or 5600 and will the charger that evolv sells be ok to use with or no.
Sure you can use the evolv charger. It will take longer to charge a large capacity battery than the 1A charger but it will work fine.
Use the PTC fuses as you would for any capacity battery for the DNA 30. 12A total on the hold rating. Two 6A in parallel or One 12A if the internal PTC resistance is low.
-
thanks for info
-
I recently got this
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1005/10005926/1585501-tp4056-1a-li-ion-battery-charging-module
Loads very well 2 batteries in parallel 3400mAh ( 6,8 A ) in maximum 4 hours. :yes"
-
on the lipo batteries whats the deal with the 20c 25c so on so on
sorry im a noob at this
and to spec what exactly works the best and just to clarify i need 3.7v
-
That's the drain limit rating in terms of the charge. So a 20C 1000mAh cell would have 20 x 1000mA or a 20A drain lmit. That means the cell will overheat if you apply a load the results in more than 20A current draw.
It's a pretty important rating for any Li-on. A standard Li-Ion typically has a 2C limit. Hobby LiPos typically range from 20C to 60C, but that's not unique to LiPos. They can range in drain limit from 2C on up. I have a bunch of 10C LiPos and I have a some high capacity 2C ones.
Some of the round cells are rated with a flat limit instead of stating it in terms of the charge. The high drain 18650s often state a direct rating like 20 Amps or 30 Amps. Though, you can simply divide the charge into that to get a "C" rating.
There's a trade-off with a cell's C rating and its charge capacity, in other words the mAh rating. A higher C rating will result in lower capacity. However, a higher C rating provides more efficient power delivery. There's less voltage drop when the cell is loaded. This is almost always advantageous, but particularly when cells are loaded heavily.
Generally the higher the C rating the better, but you give up charge capacity for that. To minimize size you may need to come down on the C rating to some extent. You don't want your C rating too low since that can be a safety issue.
Okay, hope that covers it.
-
Worked for me Craig.
-
thanks for the info. That helps ;bow;
-
I'm meant to be saving money and then I join this forum ... gee thanks .. dna 30 on the way and its all your fault .
Atb
-
I'm meant to be saving money and then I join this forum ... gee thanks .. dna 30 on the way and its all your fault .
Atb
:laughing2: Welcome to the spend club :laughing2:
-
I don't know why you are laughing as it's you who will be answering my noob questions every 5 mins lol
Cracking forum by the way . ;)
-
Thanks, welcome to the forum.
We're here to help. Just post away.......
Remember there is a 5 hr time difference from New York to the UK
-
Can a 1 amp charger be wired to the DNA board, or just connect it to the battery?
-
You can go either way, but I think it would be better to connect your charger directly to the battery. No reason to add connections to the board where they aren't necessary. The ones on the DNA board are simply a convenience, though I seem to recall some mention of an issue with those charger feeds. Dave can say for sure.
-
I've wired the 1A charger both ways to the board and directly to the batt.
Some modders have had issues wired to the board, so to be safe, wire it to the batt.
-
i had issues wiring directly to the board, i didn't proof the charging feeds prior to epoxying it all. it wasn't a faulty charger as i tried 2 chargers so would say there was either something wrong wrong with the charger feeds or it was my dodgy soldering. I'll be wiring directly to the batt from now on.
-
Thank you!
-
Any1 know any highstreet outlets that stock the hammond boxes as rs wont serve general public and want do get my build done this weekend
-
just a quick heads up, ordered a DNA 30D chip by Evolv from perfectionvapes.com , they appear to have them in stock $49.99. I'm excited
-
Although I've yet to complete my 1st. build hasn't stopped m from designing my next. I've read about the OLED connection being fragile, I've got this notion of twisting the OLED 90* is that just crazy thinking, will it mostly likely snap off?
-
Although I've yet to complete my 1st. build hasn't stopped m from designing my next. I've read about the OLED connection being fragile, I've got this notion of twisting the OLED 90* is that just crazy thinking, will it mostly likely snap off?
check the beginning of this thread... http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1051.0.html I asked the same question, yes from what I understand it was designed to be used in a tube mod, the ribbon cable will handle being bent in a 90* or 180* angle. I'm assuming you mean bending it and not actually twisting the ribbon cable in a clockwise or counter clockwise direction.
-
FX, I've got the idea of mounting the board flat on it's back above the batts facing up, but I'd like to twist the OLED 90* and have it showing through the side of the box. I'm trying to trim the height of the box a bit, but maybe I'm only saving an 1/8" or so, which would be pointless :Thinking:
-
I would say you're asking for trouble trying to twist it that much... : ) I think the cable is too short and never designed to be twisted in that way. Maybe someone else here has tried, dunno.
-
90degrees does put a lot of stress on the cable. I would avoid doing it.
If you must do it, do not force it beyond where it flexes naturally. Like shown below..
-
I was hoping it was nearly as flexible as a ribbon cable.
-
Not even close. Those cables are called FPC for flexible printed circuit board. They're flexible in the planar axis, but that's it, they're stiff otherwise. It's a plastic laminate they use so it's not very soft. Can't be twisted much at all or it transfers the torque right to the connector. Though, there are surface mount FPC connectors available that clamp onto the ribbon. They're small and they're pretty tough, surprisingly. Unfortunately, they use a direct solder connection to the PCB which is delicate.
-
I knew about flexible PCB's but didn't realize that is what was used in this instance.
-
Those are the type that just contain the connections, like a ribbon cable. Other displays actually have SMD components on those FPC cables so they are in fact flexible PCBs in that case. Let me see if I can find a good example, here ya go;
http://www.newhavendisplay.com/images/large/NHD-5.0-800480TF-ATXI-front_LRG.jpg
BTW, those displays are from Newhaven. I love those guys. They don't have China vendor prices, but they have a great selection of small displays and shipping is fast. I use their COG FSTN types in my mods.
-
The one you link is definitely not China pricing, but looking around the site, a lot of the prices seem reasonable.
Booked marked that site because if I keep hanging out here I'm going to end up getting into this kind of stuff.
-
Well, that's a larger 5" TFT display. That one lists for $34 dollars, that wasn't the price they're showing, it was just an example purchase. Those larger TFT displays aren't particularly cheap from China either. The small ones are pretty cheap at Newhaven, the OLED displays are over priced, but the COG and small TFT ones aren't bad, around $10.
Newhaven doesn't carry any of the really small OLED displays which is what I think most people are interested in. You pretty much have to get those from a China vendor, well maybe Digikey has them but they won't be cheap from them, they'll ship fast though. Pretty much all of the small displays are made in China so you need to go to a China vendor to get the unusual ones. Then you have the big wait on shipping which sucks.
Here's one similar to the one used in the DNA20/30, that's a China vendor;
http://www.buydisplay.com/default/0-84-inch-ssd1306-96x16-pixel-oled-display-manufacturer-i2c-blue-on-black
-
I tell ya, I'm a relatively patient guy, but some of those China vendors........
I have found a couple vendors that had reasonable ship times.
Still waiting on an order I placed at FT on March 4th.
-
I've bought stuff from Fasttech before. Can't beat the prices, but shipping is really slow. I think my last order took almost a month, at least 3 weeks.
I've had China vendors get stuff to me in as little as 10 days through the normal channels though. Don't really understand where the difference lies. I tend to think it's in the service on their end. Customs can hold stuff up sometimes, but it doesn't happen all the time. Usually it goes to USPS once it's in the country and they're pretty consistent so I don't think it's them.
-
10-14 day's or so is reasonable to me from China or Western Europe to the North Western US in these modern times because I'm more then old enough remember 4-6 weeks to get something delivered out of the Sear's and Roebucks, Woolworths or Montgomery wards catalog.
How did we every survive.
I'm getting OT, sorry.
I'm planning/designing to do a DNA30 in the next few months is why I asked about the flexibility of the FPC.
-
Break has made the celebrity page of clones
They finally photo-shopped instead of just using a copied picture and its horrible photo shopping too (leftside).
They still have Mamu's mod up too.
http://www.szvapetech.com/product/class/
-
So what do they do, just stalk the net stealing pictures of any mod saying, "yeah, we'll make that for you?"
-
So what do they do, just stalk the net stealing pictures of any mod saying, "yeah, we'll make that for you?"
It would seem so
So many countries out there who probably most popular B&M mods, are one of those..
They only get to that page because of that reason I would suspect.. Popularity..
Break nailed it, it is right...
-
Ha, Ha
They did a poor job photoshopping the 510 connector after removing the drip tank.
You can tell that it's my photo by the left top screw sitting higher than the top base.
-
Lol Bastiges
Talk about lazy didn't even notice that :laughing2:
-
Here's one similar to the one used in the DNA20/30, that's a China vendor;
http://www.buydisplay.com/default/0-84-inch-ssd1306-96x16-pixel-oled-display-manufacturer-i2c-blue-on-black
so this SSD1306 driver is kinda famously used for display drivers is it. i bought an OLED from Adafruit (same like what Breaktru used for MCU with DNA 12). unfortunately the prepared driver examples are for Arduino.
i got it working to load and run the OLED for PIC18 by porting the essential OLED protocols from the Arduino code, but thats it, stuck at that progress. i sure hope to continue to be able to write string and stuff with the display using PIC....
-
Has anyone here successfully made a tube mod using the DNA 30? I'm trying to find a Resettable fuse that's small enough to fit into a 3/4" ID copper tube. I've looked at this http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/LR4-550F/?qs=F6FIpiMdEVaHbjIxPqNJYw== and one of the other mounting type fuses posted here but they seam to be a little too big... I'm trying to make the mod as short as possible using a single 18650 battery. Any help would be appreciated.
-
so this SSD1306 driver is kinda famously used for display drivers is it. i bought an OLED from Adafruit (same like what Breaktru used for MCU with DNA 12). unfortunately the prepared driver examples are for Arduino.
i got it working to load and run the OLED for PIC18 by porting the essential OLED protocols from the Arduino code, but thats it, stuck at that progress. i sure hope to continue to be able to write string and stuff with the display using PIC....
That's one thing about the Microchip stuff, C libraries are lacking for even the popular display controllers. You should check the Microchip web site to see if they have anything for that controller, but you'll probably have to continue hacking until you get it working. I do the graphic displays in assembly if you can believe that, yes it's exceedingly tedious and I'm probably the only person on the planet who does that.
I'm trying to find a Resettable fuse that's small enough to fit into a 3/4" ID copper tube.
I would run a couple in parallel from this product line;
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/resettable_ptcs/littelfuse_ptc_lorho_datasheet.pdf.pdf
You can make a simple host board for them or solder wires to them directly. I would use a host board with the parts stacked myself. Keep in mind you can run the hold current somewhat under maximal demand. Two of the 4.5A hold fuses in parallel should be fine.
-
I would run a couple in parallel from this product line;
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/resettable_ptcs/littelfuse_ptc_lorho_datasheet.pdf.pdf
You can make a simple host board for them or solder wires to them directly. I would use a host board with the parts stacked myself. Keep in mind you can run the hold current somewhat under maximal demand. Two of the 4.5A hold fuses in parallel should be fine.
I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. This is what I've come up with. I'm thinking it's correct. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1210L450SLWR/F5790CT-ND/3661932
-
You're welcome, my pleasure.
Yup that's the one. With two in parallel you'll have a hold current of 9 Amps and a trip current of 18 Amps. Maximum draw for the DNA30 is 12 Amps so you're less than 50% over the hold current which should be fine.
Keep in mind PTC fuses are heat driven and since an e-cig operates intermittently and provides a cooling interval, it reduces the chance of a false trip. You could actually get pretty close to the trip current without the fuses going off, but keeping it under 50% over the hold current provides a good margin.
-
Hi everyone. New guy on the Forum here, treading water and looking worried lol.. Just been busy trying to find out how to start a topic and realising I cant yet so please forgive me if I'm posting in the wrong place. I've a load of questions like any noob but I'll keep that for later. Posts up above about bending the DNA30 screen cable round have me interested though.. Is it possable to bend it (crease it) at a 45 degree angle to the board without damageing it?
-
You probably wouldn't want to crease the ribbon cable, but you might be able to get away with it. It's risky since those thin copper traces in there would get stressed and they could snap. Don't think it's worth trashing a board to find out. Otherwise you don't really don't want to twist it, but if you have to, refer to reply #113 above.
-
You're welcome, my pleasure.
Yup that's the one. With two in parallel you'll have a hold current of 9 Amps and a trip current of 18 Amps. Maximum draw for the DNA30 is 12 Amps so you're less than 50% over the hold current which should be fine.
Keep in mind PTC fuses are heat driven and since an e-cig operates intermittently and provides a cooling interval, it reduces the chance of a false trip. You could actually get pretty close to the trip current without the fuses going off, but keeping it under 50% over the hold current provides a good margin.
Thanks again Craig... Those babies are nice and small = D they are about 3.4 mm in length If I'm looking at the data sheet correctly. It shouldn't be too tough to solder them on a board of some kind... I'll definitely have the room I was hoping for. ;cheers;
-
Yes, they're 3.2mm long and 2.5mm wide. With two stacked, the height should not be more than 2.5mm either. Pretty small, even with a little host board. Should be no problem to put them inline with some heatshrink tubing on them, easy peasy.
Don't know what they did to make the SMD ones so much smaller, but as far as I can tell they have pretty much the same specs as the much bigger through hole ones. I find they tend to sit right in the middle of the resistance range specified so you should be looking at no more than 4 mOhms with the both them, not much power loss at all there.
-
Got these in yesterday, nice and small. I just had to post a pic = )
(http://www.outcastvaping.com/forums/fuse.png)
-
Yeah, they're nice parts. I've used the 3.5A ones, those are the 4.5A ones. They work really well.
-
Is it as simple as glueing those fuses to a piece of board, soldering on connecting wires and covering it with heatshrink or is there a lot more to it? (sorry total noob here learning as I go. Lots of experience working with RC cars and stuff but a bit out of my depth here with these smaller components)
-
Mamu has a post how she does those smd fuses.
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?topic=1055.0
the gluing it down is awesome man o man when i did some smd thingys they were sliding around everywhere, even trying to hold it with tweezers. small dab stick and solder awesome..
-
That's true generally when working with SMD parts. If you hand solder stuff, it can be difficult to hold small parts in place. Don't have that problem with reflow soldering, but that's a whole other skill.
-
Thanks for the link V just checked that out. So those fuses can actually touch? That was the bit that was confusing me lol..
-
hi sorry for the thread hijack nice mod :)
can anyone tell me what the value of the cap in the picture is please as i blew it and need to replace it before i buy new board (http://www.leevapoursltd.co.uk/dna30.jpg)