Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => General Discussions => Topic started by: Breaktru on July 22, 2011, 01:21:28 PM
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Tip:
Do not screw in your Atty too tight into the battery base.
This will cause the insulator to flatten or crush and cause the positive contact point to short out to the negative base.
Just screw it in until it just touches.
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/connector_insulator.jpg)
Trouble Shooting:
The battery connector can not be tested for ohms with center pin wired to the circuit. It would have to be removed. If you don't remove it. Remove the opposite wire end so you don't have to unsolder it at the atty/batt connector.
(When solding center of battery base, remove pin and insulator to prevent damage)
You would set your meter on ohms and measure center to threads or base. It should read infinity and not zero or any type of ohm reading.
Before you do that. unscrew atty or carto and set your meter on D.C. volts (20 volt scale) or equivelent and put your meter leads to center of battery connector to outer case of the base and fire the P.B. switch. If you're getting normal voltage then it's okay. UNLESS screwing in the atty is compressing the batt base insulator and that is causing a short.
This has happen to me and several others. I had to remove the center wire of the batt connector and pop out the pin and insulator and made a rubber insulator for it.
If you suspect that the atty/carto is shorting when screwed in, remove the wire at the opposite end of the center pin. Take an ohm reading, then screw in the atty and measure again. You should read the atty resistance. If you're reading zero or less than the atty resistance, the atty/carto is compressing the insulator causing a short or near short.
Test like this, with and without the atty screwed in:
(http://breaktru.com/temp/ohming without.jpg)
(http://breaktru.com/temp/ohming with.jpg)
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Thank you for pointing this out. I didn't realize that could happen.
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That was my problem all a long and didn't realize it. Wow dude you saved my PV from scap pile. Now to replace the batt conn and revive my PV
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I've also had this happen.
Does anyone know where or what I can use to replace the insulator. I've looked high and low on Google but had no success.
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Me too, I went crazy trying to figure out why my mod stopped working. I ripped apart my circuit believing a part was bad until I read this thread.
Let me know if someone finds the insulator, I had to replace the whole battery connector because of the rubber insulator being damaged.
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What size would I need?
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These measurements are for the Madvape sealed connectors as shown in photo...........
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/connector_insulator_measure.jpg) (http://breaktru.com/ecig/connector_insulator.jpg)
With a little alterations, this seems like a possible replacement for the insulator.
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/insulator.jpg)
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I have several battery connectors which I took apart for measuring and found that the rubber insulators where black and some white. Every white insulator was split around which would cause a shorting problem eventually. These were never used brand new connectors.
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I read somewhere (don't ask me where) that you can fix this problem with a tiny dab of GE 100% clear silicone. While disassembled, you solder the center wire to the center pin, then thread the wire thru the hole in the outer part, put a bit of silicone around the center pin, then pull the pin into the threaded outer collar. Don't pull it up tight, let it float in a bit of silicone.
Once the silicone has cured, test for shorts with your meter.
Now I remember where I read that. There's a modder on ECF that makes Hog's Wooden Mods. He got a bad batch of connectors and repaired them using silicone (a very good insulator when dry)
At least I think that's what he said ??? :o :o :o
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I read somewhere (don't ask me where) that you can fix this problem with a tiny dab of GE 100% clear silicone. While disassembled, you solder the center wire to the center pin, then thread the wire thru the hole in the outer part, put a bit of silicone around the center pin, then pull the pin into the threaded outer collar. Don't pull it up tight, let it float in a bit of silicone.
Once the silicone has cured, test for shorts with your meter.
Now I remember where I read that. There's a modder on ECF that makes Hog's Wooden Mods. He got a bad batch of connectors and repaired them using silicone (a very good insulator when dry)
At least I think that's what he said ??? :o :o :o
That sounds easy enough. I guess extreme care in properly centering the pin is important as not to have it touch the inside wall as the silicone hardens.
I'll have to give it a try.
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How about a tiny sleeve of heat shrink first, then silicone it in and Bob's your uncle
(http://www.vapersforum.com/images/smilies/Good%20Luck.gif)
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How about a tiny sleeve of heat shrink first, then silicone it in and Bob's your uncle
(http://www.vapersforum.com/images/smilies/Good%20Luck.gif)
Yes Al, your a genius :rockin smiley: Great thinking.
The first time I thought about the insulator, I came up with the heat shrink and maybe shrinking the middle of the shrink tight to the pin and leaving the top and bottom flared a bit. But got side track on finding the unfindable. :wallbash:
Glad you brought up the tubing, I completely forgot about it. And combing it with the silicone sounds like a winner.
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I seen the ECF post about using heat shrink. I guess this sounds like the easiest and cheapest solution due to the low quality battery connector insulators the venders are hawking. Probably all China crap.
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I found that Avid Vaper sell the atty Silicon insulators in a 4 pack for $0.99
See: http://www.avidvaper.com/510-threaded-connector-insulators/
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I found that Avid Vaper sell the atty Silicon insulators in a 4 pack for $0.99
See: http://www.avidvaper.com/510-threaded-connector-insulators/
Just saved 25 cents. :piggybank:
Soldered a wire to the center pin that was removed from the batt conn.
Cut the top rim of a tiny grommet and pressed it into the top end of the conn.
Heat shrank a small piece around the pin leaving the flat top of pin bare.
Some spit and pressed it in to the grommet and conn.
Perfecto. 10,000 times better than any pre-mades. :thumbsup:
Took no more than 1 min. The next will be 30 seconds now that I'm a pro.
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Just saved 25 cents. :piggybank:
Soldered a wire to the center pin that was removed from the batt conn.
Cut the top rim of a tiny grommet and pressed it into the top end of the conn.
Heat shrank a small piece around the pin leaving the flat top of pin bare.
Some spit and pressed it in to the grommet and conn.
Perfecto. 10,000 times better than any pre-mades. :thumbsup:
Took no more than 1 min. The next will be 30 seconds now that I'm a pro.
But .. I thought spit was conductive :egyption: :egyption: :egyption: :egyption: :egyption:
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I noticed that Madvapes batt connectors are of poor/cheap quality. I stopped buying from them and now buy from a variety of suppliers.
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I think all of these insulators are crap. I think it's a shame that quality parts are rare
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Good to know. Thanks guys
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I started this several months ago.... after mounting the 510 connector in to the mod, I started filling the underside of 510 connector with epoxy.
Since then I have not had a single failure. The epoxy not only seals the connector from leaking juice into my mod but prevents the center pin from bottoming out, crushing the insulator.
Use a good epoxy that won't be effected my the juice.
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+1 on that :)
I think I read somewhere that carto's use the same rubber grommet. Whether that's all carto's I don't know and I don't have any to hand right now to check.
And the heat shrink idea has it's merits. You wouldn't need to be too precise about it as you could cut the heat shrink after shrinking it to get a nice edge. Probably using adhesive heat shrink would be better too
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I started this several months ago.... after mounting the 510 connector in to the mod, I started filling the underside of 510 connector with epoxy.
Since then I have not had a single failure. The epoxy not only seals the connector from leaking juice into my mod but prevents the center pin from bottoming out, crushing the insulator.
Use a good epoxy that won't be effected my the juice.
Exactly what i have done and works a treat. I just screw in an old atty first then pack the underside tight with epoxy and seems to last a hell of a lot longer.
I had a lot of mods back with the dreaded 510 problem, so this should improve reliability. What i do now is use an adapter either 510-510 or i prefer 510-ego. Then you can leave the adapter on and change the atty without screwing into the 510 connector.
Also i have found that ego connectors have a better silicone spacer fitted
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So many good ideas for insulators, the post needed a bump.
:thumbsup: