Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Atty/Carto/Tank/Rebuildable => Topic started by: Pantera on November 20, 2012, 01:13:56 PM
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No more gunked coils.
No more shorting of coil to SS mesh.
Hats off to Scubabatdan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sb4ysdaRsGk&hd=1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sb4ysdaRsGk&hd=1)
Version 2: shorter Pyrex.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdYCqrB2E3s&hd=1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdYCqrB2E3s&hd=1)
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You'd never believe who gave Dan that idea though.... ;cheers;
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You'd never believe who gave Dan that idea though.... ;cheers;
I give up............. you?
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Just a test....
I used the glass from a 250ma fuse just to see if this would work. It works fantastic and at only 6.64 watts it looks hotter than it is. No more wicking issues and having to tilt the RBA for better wicking.
I'm waiting on a 3mm Pyrex type tube and 2.5mm tube.
The fuse glass is wide at 4.5mm. I had to try my best to keep it away from the positive post so the coil windings don't short to it.
Anyway......... see attached. It's a bit out of focus but you'll get the point.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep5EcEUkGS0&hd=1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep5EcEUkGS0&hd=1)
http://breaktru.com/ecig/glass_hybrid2.mpg (http://breaktru.com/ecig/glass_hybrid2.mpg)
(http://breaktru.com/ecig/glass_hybrid.jpg)
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interesting stuff Dave now where to get some tubes? Gotta give this a go :thumbsup:
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found tubes :thumbsup:
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found tubes :thumbsup:
I have a 3mm and a 2.5mm on the way
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Mentioned this on UKVapers last night - looks like another group buy's in the offing :)
Certainly plenty of testing done around the globe on this anyway :D
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There is a big run on buying up all the glass tubes. The manufactures are swamped. I ordered mine early yesterday and hope my order is shipped.
In the mean time, these would probably work. They are 3mm in diameter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-x-10mm-10PCS-Fast-Blow-Glass-Fuses-5A-250V-New-/180478482723?afsrc=1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-x-10mm-10PCS-Fast-Blow-Glass-Fuses-5A-250V-New-/180478482723?afsrc=1)
Cut at the very end of the metal sleeving without touching the glass and work off the metal cap with your finger nail. They are glued on so make sure you scape all the glue off and wash before using.
(http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mJ9UzSC-mr_QqdaQSTCJtnw.jpg)
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mine are already on the way
thanks for bringing this to my attention Dave! :thumbsup:
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Just ordered some 3mm glass fuses too :thumbsup: So this is for just above the tank... correct?
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Just ordered some 3mm glass fuses too :thumbsup: So this is for just above the tank... correct?
Yes, it does not go down into the tank so you don't have to drill out the wick hole
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Will Pyrex take the heat of a dry burn without stressing, or is fused quartz maybe a better option? Either way, what's a decent source for 2.5 and 3mm pyrex tubes? Lab supply place maybe?
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Will Pyrex take the heat of a dry burn without stressing, or is fused quartz maybe a better option? Either way, what's a decent source for 2.5 and 3mm pyrex tubes? Lab supply place maybe?
I bought these: http://www.wilmad-labglass.com/Products/305-PS-7/ (http://www.wilmad-labglass.com/Products/305-PS-7/)
Description
Wilmad-LabGlass's NMR Precision Tubes are manufactured from borosilicate glass that meets the requirement of Type 1 Class A glass from ASTM E438. Precision Tube has 3 fold less paramagnetic contamination comparing to the Economy tube, and can be operated safely at temperature up to 230 degrees C, and within a temperature step of 120 degrees C. Precision tube is rated as hydrolytic class 1, which states that the inner surface is resistant to strong acid and base at ambient temperature.
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I got 2.5ml od ones on the way
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I got 2.5ml od ones on the way
Yeah, I also have 2.5mm on the same order. It's pyrex and not borosilicate glass like the 3mm ones. Hope it can withstand the temp.
http://www.wilmad-labglass.com/Products/WG-1365-2-5A/ (http://www.wilmad-labglass.com/Products/WG-1365-2-5A/)
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I give up............. you?
I approached Dan a couple months ago with an idea that I had about how to redesign the common atomizer/cartomizer using pyrex/boro glass.
The design would eliminate the need of all wicks and would vaporize liquid on contact.
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Just a test...
Nice looking controller you've got in the background there, D.... :yes"
Whachya building?
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I approached Dan a couple months ago with an idea that I had about how to redesign the common atomizer/cartomizer using pyrex/boro glass.
The design would eliminate the need of all wicks and would vaporize liquid on contact.
Da man behind the scene... finally steps out.... Congrats on your idea "T".
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Nice looking controller you've got in the background there, D.... :yes"
Whachya building?
Ain't it. My best bud sent it to me. maybe you know him... hee, hee, hee, heeee.
It's just sitting there waiting for a brain fart to clear.....
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Yeah, I also have 2.5mm on the same order. It's pyrex and not borosilicate glass like the 3mm ones. Hope it can withstand the temp.
http://www.wilmad-labglass.com/Products/WG-1365-2-5A/ (http://www.wilmad-labglass.com/Products/WG-1365-2-5A/)
Pyrex is used in cooking so should be good ta go :thumbsup:
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Awesome shek so you thought this up?
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Not this particular application, but the overall concept...yes.
My idea eliminated the need for a wick or filler material altogether and would be a complete reinvention of the atomizer.
I approached Dan about it first because I knew that he had the equipment and inventiveness to build it the way I had envisioned it.
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Ain't it. My best bud sent it to me. maybe you know him... hee, hee, hee, heeee.
It's just sitting there waiting for a brain fart to clear.....
How bout a stainless steel Dmax with an extension for use with (2) 18650's?
Or maybe a side-by-side version with a juice reservoir and a mini servo pump in the middle? :Thinking:
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Not this particular application, but the overall concept...yes.
My idea eliminated the need for a wick or filler material altogether and would be a complete reinvention of the atomizer.
I approached Dan about it first because I knew that he had the equipment and inventiveness to build it the way I had envisioned it.
great ideas too but I think he borrowed this glass idea from nicotime
can you tell me more about your concept of no wick or filler?
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If you have the ability to blow Pyrex glass, then I will. :yes"
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If you have the ability to blow Pyrex glass, then I will. :yes"
yes I can blow glass but no furnace ATM
shoot maybe Dan will do it? :yes"
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I like this, my next coil and wick will need this.
On the note of how to do a filler less wick less tank I thought os doing a spiral between to sheets of aluminum or pyrex kinda like a stove top that would heat the liquid without getting the spiral wet so no gunking up and you can take the whole thing a part and wash it and then stick it back together. only issue is airflow and juice leaking if it fell over.
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anything that would work as far as I can tell without a wick would need some kind of pumping system...not to say it isn't doable...but it would increase the complexity to extreme levels...let alone how to wash it...I did a little dabbling w an internally contained system inside the box...it was a REAL PITA to clean and started clogging after an hr or so of use...now if it had a Laser setup to clean the vaporization surfaces maybe...the biggest problem w that Idea really is that our juices have materials in them that will leave a buildup and hence the need for something easily cleanable...
If you find a way around that one times...My hats off to you...I tossed that one to the side after about 3 weeks...its around somewhere if ya want me to dig it out and compare notes...however it will have to wait till after the holidays...between them and my nerves from life In general I'm checking out for a while...
Using the glass as an electrical insulator is very promising tho...here's a suggestion to breaktru simply because he has something that could easily be adjusted to perfom this...Try setting up your MCU mod w a timing function as well...then program it that on a cold start to go high on the voltage for initial warmup and to taper the voltage down after a sec or so...the reason for the timing function is to make sure it does not go high if you have taken a vape within a short enough time that the glass/quartz is still hot...it may take a little fiddling but it will help w the slow warmup time...
side note...a faster warmup WILL increase the chances of shocking the glass/quartz so be careful if ya try it...
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I got my 3mm Borosilicate glass tube in last night and cut a piece for my DID clone. It works fantastic w/ the cap off but not happy with the draw w/ the cap on. Have to play with the air flow to find a better way. The draw is too airy. Maybe try it on another type RBA.
Also got a 2.5mm Pyrex with the order. I cut a piece and it chipped a bit on the cut end. It's a very thin walled glass and looks fragile. I'll play with this at a later date.
I find that hitting the fire button about 3 seconds before vaping and then pulsing the fire button on and off works pretty good so not to overheat the glass.
That would be cool for the MCU. A Glass-Mode
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Thin walled 3mm Borosilicate glass tubing with a 500 SS mesh powered with my .44 mini boost mod and an 18500 battery.
8 wraps of 28ga Kanthal A1 wire, 4.8 ohms at 6 volts.
The glass tubing sits on top of the tank top plate and does not go into the tank. Vapor escapes from the top and bottom of the tubing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuqrAblq1rY&hd=1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuqrAblq1rY&hd=1)
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That's pretty bitchen. So have you been able to get it to vape well when hitting on it? Love that little box, looks just like mine, perfect size.
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That's pretty bitchen. So have you been able to get it to vape well when hitting on it? Love that little box, looks just like mine, perfect size.
Vape is not as good as it looks. If I block off half of the side air hole it does vape a lot better. Thanks about the box... but it's no powerblok. Does perform pretty good though.
What I did was put a piece of tape over the air hole and popped a hole with a staple and that seems to have done the trick.
I like the fact that the juice stays nice and clean.
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so is the tube running through top plate in to the the tank a little? Is your wick completely unoxidized?
looks like it pumping pretty good just need right air flow perhaps? Looking forward to getting my tubes but I'm out west so it's taking more time to arrive. Look forward to playing with it! :thumbsup:
Thanks for posting this vid Dave ! ;cheers;
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so is the tube running through top plate in to the the tank a little? Is your wick completely unoxidized?
looks like it pumping pretty good just need right air flow perhaps? Looking forward to getting my tubes but I'm out west so it's taking more time to arrive. Look forward to playing with it! :thumbsup:
Thanks for posting this vid Dave ! ;cheers;
The tube sits up top and not thru to the tank. The wick is NOT oxidized.
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The tube sits up top and not thru to the tank. The wick is NOT oxidized.
Thanks Dave Very Cool and Thanks for letting me know Bro! :beer-toast:
This might work better with a smaller chamber like in the Line clones I make? :beer-toast:
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Yes.. very cool :rockin smiley:
:thankyou: for the info
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UPDATE:
For those of you who are first discovering this topic, don't bother making this glass/SS wick. Although it produces lots of vaper, it's doesn't vape well with the top on. I then moved on to the ceramic / fish air bubble. I gave us on that also. It doesn't wick fast enough for me. Nothing like a plain old SS mesh wick. Seems to perform the best and most reliable IMHO.
UPDATE 2:
I find that using cotton as a wick works better. Vapes great, wicks good and juice tastes better. Juice stays clean. SS makes the juice dark.
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Tried the ss wire yet?
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Tried the ss wire yet?
Not yet. How about you?
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I am not to good with rebuilding so I have given up all my rebuildables.