Breaktru Forum

eCigarette Forum => Modding => Topic started by: Breaktru on September 22, 2013, 04:29:03 PM

Title: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 22, 2013, 04:29:03 PM
This circuit uses a 220 ohm fixed resistor and a 200 ohm trimmer potentiometer. The approximate output range is 3.4v to 6v give or take a tenth of a volt.
NO capacitors are needed.
I prefer to use a 3A @ 125v or better push button rather then the Remote On/Off Control Pin #1

Resettable Fuse (PTC)

See attached schematics (members only)

DC-DC Converter - Step down regulator

T/10 Specifications:
    Current - Output (Max): 10A
    Efficiency: 92%
    Features: With Remote On/Off
    Mounting Type: Through Hole
    Number of Outputs: 1
    Package / Case: 5-SIP Module

    Power (Watts) - Manufacture Series: 50W
    Power (Watts) - Max: 50W
    Size / Dimension: 0.41" L x 0.30" W x 0.65" H (10.4mm x 7.6mm x 16.5mm)
    Type:Non-Isolated PoL Module
    Voltage - Input (Max): 14V
    Voltage - Input (Min): 4.5V
    Voltage - Output:  0.591 ~ 6 V  (3.4v ~ 6v with resistors like schematic)

Also, look at Mamu's wiring diagram: HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg13560.html#msg13560)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T3 schematic circuit
Post by: jumper on September 22, 2013, 08:43:29 PM
Thanks for the schematic, Breaktru. Craig is trying to help me out on another thread (poor man... I'm so dumb), and he said to use this circuit. I really appreciate you posting this!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T3 schematic circuit
Post by: jumper on September 22, 2013, 08:52:31 PM
Another thing, is the board you have pictured a T3 board?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 22, 2013, 09:06:51 PM
The wiring is the same for all 3 as stated in the Subject title and in the schematic.

I have used the OKR-T/10 in a couple of DM Mods but never posted a schematic for it before.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jumper on September 22, 2013, 09:35:14 PM
Yes, you did state that it was for all three. I just question myself and my understanding because I want to go ahead and get the parts from the other thread. Thanks for you help and clarification.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: methos on September 22, 2013, 10:02:31 PM
Question on the OKR. Can you use this with one battery?  I see the specs say min voltage is 4.5
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 23, 2013, 07:32:44 AM
Question on the OKR. Can you use this with one battery?  I see the specs say min voltage is 4.5

Two batts are needed. As you mentioned, min voltage is 4.5v
The OKR input voltage range is 4.5-14 Vdc
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: methos on September 23, 2013, 09:40:36 AM
Reason I asked is the TI 8100 also lists its min voltage @ 4.5. I wondered if there was a way to do it
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on September 23, 2013, 11:13:35 AM
Not sure which part you're talking about, but the parts listed in the OP are step down regulators which means you have to have an input voltage equal to or greater than your output voltage.  If you want an upper range of 6 Volts, you need the input to be no less than 6 Volts.

If you want to use a single battery, you have to use a boosting regulator which is a different part that is wired differently.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: icky on September 27, 2013, 12:22:30 AM
What is the schematic for a touch swich. I  know its on here somewhere but can not find it. Working on a altoids tin and wish you posted earlier since I already made a board with the capacitors. Are there any drawbacks or advantages to the capacitors on a pv?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 27, 2013, 08:12:06 AM
What is the schematic for a touch swich. I  know its on here somewhere but can not find it. Working on a altoids tin and wish you posted earlier since I already made a board with the capacitors. Are there any drawbacks or advantages to the capacitors on a pv?

Shown with just a battery. for the OKR, replace Atty connector w/ OKR input. 15k resistor if using tact. Use a 10M to 100M resistor if using finger touch. Resistor depends on sensitivity --> Touch Circuit w/ tact (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,616.msg5417.html#msg5417)


OKR Capacitors? (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,559.msg3400.html#msg3400)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on October 21, 2013, 01:17:31 AM
woot  freaked_out:
thanks

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: digiw0rx on October 24, 2013, 03:04:11 PM
Do these need a PCB? or could i solder directly to the pins?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 24, 2013, 03:44:41 PM
Do these need a PCB? or could i solder directly to the pins?

It's not necessary
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: digiw0rx on October 24, 2013, 03:49:42 PM
Cheers Dave, I'm not equip to create my own boards at the moment, so this is brilliant.

Especially as these regulators can provide 10amps, which means certain sub ohm coils are possible i'd imagine?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on October 24, 2013, 03:52:36 PM
Does it really hit 50 watts?
I know Ti under rates their chips by a huge margin, maybe OKr over rates  :laughing2:

Not that anyone would need 50w but will it do eeet :Thinking:..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: digiw0rx on October 24, 2013, 04:14:41 PM
Given it can put out 10 amps, i'd imagine it reach those figures yeah.

I am trying to find a UK source for these chips but everywhere wants £12 shipping for a few chips. :(
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 24, 2013, 05:53:12 PM
It's either or 10A / 50w. Luv to see you peak it with an atty
UK Farnell.com (http://uk.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/okr-t-10-w12-c/dc-dc-conv-non-iso-pol-1-o-p-50w/dp/1792312?ref=lookahead)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: digiw0rx on October 24, 2013, 06:30:36 PM
£15 for delivery from Farnell.

:(

Well i normally vape at 17 watts, but i do sometimes vape at 45 watts
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on October 24, 2013, 06:46:40 PM
Given it can put out 10 amps, i'd imagine it reach those figures yeah.

I am trying to find a UK source for these chips but everywhere wants £12 shipping for a few chips. :(

Try this (http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata/OKR-T-10-W12-C/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiffsVHBt9VRMG4xsP9iEwyyeQnI92WuJk%3d), Mouser UK.  I don't know about Royal Mail, but if I put a comment in the box to use inexpensive USPS first class shipping on the American site, they always do it.

Should be able to do 10 Amps with that regulator up to 5 Volts.  Since most sub-Ohm atomizers run under 4V, going down to 1/2 Ohm should be no problem.  Can probably go down even lower with a lower voltage setting.  You want to use a set of good high drain batteries.  Step down reduces current demand, but still, you want a battery that can handle a 5 Amp drain comfortably.  A couple IMR 18350s can handle that.  You could also run a 2S LiPo pack which would deliver power a lot better.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 24, 2013, 06:48:14 PM
£15 for delivery from Farnell.

:(

Well i normally vape at 17 watts, but i do sometimes vape at 45 watts

I thought Farnell was UK based? That's crazy.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on October 24, 2013, 06:58:17 PM
They are, but I read that rates for Royal Mail have gone way up.  I imagine they have a letter service like USPS first class mail here, but I've seen that a lot with electronics vendors where they won't use the cheaper services.  I really don't understand why they do that.  They're just screwing the customer for no reason.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: digiw0rx on October 25, 2013, 05:36:02 AM
It's £15.95 per delivery because it's US stock, they don't seem to keep them in any UK warehouses :(
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: digiw0rx on October 25, 2013, 05:46:41 AM
Try this (http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata/OKR-T-10-W12-C/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiffsVHBt9VRMG4xsP9iEwyyeQnI92WuJk%3d), Mouser UK.  I don't know about Royal Mail, but if I put a comment in the box to use inexpensive USPS first class shipping on the American site, they always do it.

Should be able to do 10 Amps with that regulator up to 5 Volts.  Since most sub-Ohm atomizers run under 4V, going down to 1/2 Ohm should be no problem.  Can probably go down even lower with a lower voltage setting.  You want to use a set of good high drain batteries.  Step down reduces current demand, but still, you want a battery that can handle a 5 Amp drain comfortably.  A couple IMR 18350s can handle that.  You could also run a 2S LiPo pack which would deliver power a lot better.

That's better, Mouser offer free delivery on orders over £50, so i will wait until i have a full basket.

Cheers guys.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: katrev on November 14, 2013, 08:08:15 AM
I think PTR08060W pins are the same ,is there any reason why it would not work  in the same schematic?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: DRA on November 14, 2013, 08:56:46 AM
I think PTR08060W pins are the same ,is there any reason why it would not work  in the same schematic?

Hi Katrev, Yes the PTR0860w would use the same schematic as the PTR08100w according to the datasheets. 08060w is 6A and the 08100w is 10A
This thread is for the OKR. Just saying
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: katrev on November 14, 2013, 09:37:46 AM
Perfect,thank you ,i am gonna try it.
(i don't get it,is there a problem asking  that here? just sayin')
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on November 14, 2013, 09:50:52 AM
No problem Katrev. It's a legitimate question.
What DRA was saying is that the O.P. was about the OKR circuit. Usually we stay on topic but it's okay to ask.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: katrev on November 14, 2013, 09:56:03 AM
Thank you for the reply ,Breaktru,but i still don't get it. Obviously from the thread title and from the schematic this thread is about OKR. That's why i asked here ,and i consider the question ontopic ,beeing about OKR and another module compatibility.
I think a normal response ,whithout  "Cpt.Obvious" data should be helpful for actual and future readers.
Anyway sorry for disturbing the on-topicness , it will never happen again.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on November 14, 2013, 10:31:44 AM
There is no need to apologize kat. I do appreciate your posting. It's hard to get members to post.
I think I was confused by DRA's post which led me to believe you were talking about only the PTR board.
Now that I re-read your original post, you were comparing the pins of the OKR to the PTR. Yes they are the same.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: DRA on November 14, 2013, 10:34:38 AM
My mistake  Doh: I am the one to apologize. Sorry guys
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mick8844 on November 28, 2013, 06:05:46 PM
So Break tru,

This my question if I wanted to build a 10 A/ 50 watt mod I could use this chip OKR/T10. but how would I wire this thing up to give me 50 watts and how would I be able to SEE that that was the out put. could someone give me some direction on doing that? I see a guy out there making a 50 watt device called the duke and from what I can tell this is the chip he is using. but I would need to be able to look at something that was telling me what the wattage was set at. 
Any Help would be appreciated I want to make a 50 watter just for myself for fun.

mick
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on November 28, 2013, 07:20:13 PM
Adding a simple DM to the mod such as the  Mini Lithium Battery Digital Voltmeter DC (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170846277546&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160) and using ohms law will show you the results.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on December 10, 2013, 03:03:00 PM
If using Pin 1 for the switch, does this mean the OKR is always powered and potentially putting a drain on the batteries?  Is this why you prefer using the 3A switch between Pin 2 and the batteries Breaktru?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on December 10, 2013, 03:39:20 PM
If using Pin 1 for the switch, does this mean the OKR is always powered and potentially putting a drain on the batteries?  Is this why you prefer using the 3A switch between Pin 2 and the batteries Breaktru?

Yes it's always powered. There is a 1ma current drain using Pin 1. Not a big deal but enough for me not to use it. Especially if it's not your every day exclusive mod and it's sitting off to the side for a period of time.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on December 10, 2013, 04:16:11 PM
I kind of like the idea of being able to use a tactile switch .  I have a couple OKR T/10's on the way so maybe I'll try building one one way and one the other.  I guess I could put a power cut off switch in if it was going to sit and space allowed.

I have a schematic drawing that I saved from one of Mamu's posts in another forum and she adds a 10k resistor between Pin 1 and 3.  Is this required to use Pin 1?  I noticed she also had caps on Pins 2-3 and Pins 3-4.  Maybe if Mamu reads this she could chime in.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on December 10, 2013, 04:19:48 PM
Usually you want to keep idle battery drain under 20uA or so.  A 1mA drain will discharge a fully charged 1500mA cell in a couple months which is not an issue if you're using the device all the time, but if you throw the mod on a shelf with a low battery and forget about it, you could destroy the battery.

Typically you want to avoid connecting power directly to digital inputs (the enable pin for the OKR is a digital input).  You don't ~have~ to do that typically, but it's good practice.  Sometimes logic circuits can draw power through the digitial I/O pins.  The resistor keeps that from happening.  Also, some digital inputs require a pull-down or pull-up resistor to function properly.  That may be what's required there.  I'd have to look at the OKR data sheet.


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on December 13, 2013, 09:07:00 PM
What is the proper way to connect the OKR to a strip board.  Do you have to get a certain pitch board, do you need a SIP socket?  I believe the OKR is SIP, but all the SIP sockets I see are either 4 or 6 contact and the OKR is 5... I'm such a noob!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on December 14, 2013, 06:59:44 PM
I think most people just solder the wires to the pins and cover it with heatshrink tubing.  If you want to get industrious, you can remove the header and solder wires directly to the board.  I haven't done that on the OKR ones, but I use a similar Murata module for making USB cig lighter adapters.  I remove the sip headers on them so I can solder them flat on a carrier board.  You just bend the pins straight then pry off the plastic spacer and you can unsolder the pins one at a time.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on December 14, 2013, 08:39:27 PM
...I have a schematic drawing that I saved from one of Mamu's posts in another forum and she adds a 10k resistor between Pin 1 and 3.  Is this required to use Pin 1?  I noticed she also had caps on Pins 2-3 and Pins 3-4.  Maybe if Mamu reads this she could chime in.

A reason for using pin1 is to be able to use a non rated fire switch (pin1 is inline with an internal MOSFET which takes the load off the switch). If you're using a 3A switch then pin1 is not needed.  If you're wanting to use a tactile switch, then you will need to use pin1.

Another reason to use pin1 would be to attach a zener diode to it for undervoltage protection - undervoltage shutdown for the OKR is 3.4 Volts - for our application with 2 batts in series we need undervoltage shutdown min at 6v).  For undervoltage protection you can use a 5.6v zener diode (pin1 is the Remote On/Off Control - OFF = 0.4v: added to the 5.6 zener = 6v shutoff). 

If using pin1, you HAVE to have the 10K pull down resister across pins 1 and 3 to shut the module off, else it will always be on and firing the atty.  freaked_out:  :laughing:

However, the primary problem with using pin1 is the 1mA drain.

I've made 3 commercial mods with the OKR-T6 - Merlin, Minxy, and Denali.  In Merlin and Minxy I did not use pin 1, so I cut it off.  For monitoring low batt voltage I used a batt status LED that lights when the input voltage is above 6v and doesn't light when the voltage gets to or below 6v.

In Denali I needed to use pin 1 for the module to function properly with separating the input and output readings for the voltage reader, else I wouldn't have used pin1.  For low batt voltage monitoring, the voltage reader reads input voltage - when it gets to ~6v time to charge the batts.  I used a 3-position switch (on/off/on) - on to input voltage display, off to voltage display, on to output voltage display.

As for using external caps, the OKR works fine without them since it does have internal caps - but for how long it works fine is a different story.  CapeCAD was the original finder of the OKR module 3 years ago and used caps and I took my lesson from him in using caps.  Talking to the Murata rep he recommended using external caps in our application as a buffer for less stress/shock on the module as well as the batteries due to the repeated and frequent firing that we do.  Less stress/shock on the OKR module = increased longevity of it working properly.  So based on that recommendation, I use caps.  In the last 3 years, I've only lost 2 OKR modules due to electronic failure and I've made more than 200 OKR mods, so that's a dang good record there.  :yes"  So yes, I always use caps with the OKR, but whether you do is your choice.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on December 15, 2013, 01:46:25 AM
@Craig - Good idea.  I think I'm over thinking things.  Your post made me back up and take a better look at this.  Sometimes if forget the "keep it simple stupid" thing lol.

@Mamu - Thanks for the info.  I think the knowledge and experience that you and many others here put forward freely is invaluable to those of us learning this stuff. Much appreciated!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on December 16, 2013, 02:14:43 PM
As far as additional caps on the OKR regulators, additional input capacitance can reduce voltage spikes when the OKR starts up which would improve reliability.  However, there's is a limit on output capacitance.  That would actually be harder on the regulator since it increases outrush currents on startup.  Also, if you add too much output capacitance, it can destabilize the converter.  They're sensitive to that.  I would say input caps are benefit and output caps are a detriment.

The TI modules require them on both input and output since there's none onboard and it's required for the regulator to function.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on December 16, 2013, 03:35:55 PM
Craig, I think I remember you talking about output capacitance and how it can affect efficiency.  I believe it was also to do with ESR and the effects of too high or too low ESR.

I have a question about wiring.  I usually use 20AWG solid core for input and output.  Can a smaller gauge wire be used for the adjust pin?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on December 16, 2013, 04:15:28 PM
That makes sense and good to know, Craig. 

I had been using a nominal 10uF cap with the OKR on both input/output.  Haven't made any OKR mods for over a year now though.  Have been thinking of using the OKR-T10 to make a dual 18650 flip-top mod and write a how-to build for modders and vapers who do sub-ohms and want to do it safely vs using a mech mod.

Having time to do that is what holds up getting some of my projects done.  manOman if I had 4 hands.  :laughing:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on December 16, 2013, 04:24:22 PM
That would be great Mamu.  I have the pdf you did for the Dena mod and the instructions are very explicit and easy to follow. It's an excellent tutorial.  I haven't done an OKR mod yet, but parts are coming in now for it/them.  I think the research is most of the battle with this stuff and it's nice to have people who know to help us noobs :D
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on December 16, 2013, 04:47:52 PM
LOL - yes, research IS half the battle, sometimes more so. 

I had zero soldering skills and zero electronics knowledge when I started modding.  I learn as I go with google and reading threads in the modding forum and also gaining hands-on experience by actually doing the builds.  I've come a long long way with my knowledge base since I started this venture, but still I consider myself a n00b.  :yes"  Maybe an intermediate n00b at this stage since my eyes don't glaze over at reading and learning some of this stuff nowadays as it did when I first started.   :laughing:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on December 16, 2013, 05:43:19 PM
I've also learned a lot since I started doing mods, mainly about DC-DC converters.  I've worked with electronics for decades, but have not done much with converters until I started doing mods.  The voltage mode converter controllers are complicated buggers, but it gives your skills a work-out and it's rewarding when you do a succesful build.  The current mode controllers are much easier to work with since they don't have to be tuned to the same extent.  You don't need any special skills to work with those.  They're not quite as efficient, but it's only a small difference.

In terms of soldering, one thing I've accomplished because of mod building is the ability to work with smaller and smaller components.  The size limitation of e-cig mods really drives you to master that.  It's funny now when looking for parts, I'm always like, "why don't they put that in a SC-70 or something, that part is HUGE."  And I'm saying that for SOT-23 packages that are actually pretty small.

10uF is really isn't much to add on input or output for a converter.  Really doesn't do much.  Typically converters use something in the neighborhood of 100uF on input and/or output depending on the type.  The output limit on the OKR is 200uF for ESR under 15 mOhms.  To reduce input transients, I would add a low ESR 100uF input cap.  If using a main power switch, I'd put it behind the switch so it's already charged when the converter is energized.

For the wire question a few posts up, the optimal gauge of wire you use is entirely dependant upon the amount of current it has to carry.  For controls, current is very low so the finest of gauges would be acceptable for that.  For an atomizer connector where currents are high, 20 gauge is good, it's what I use.  You can go heavier for optimal power transfer or finer if you don't mind giving up a little power for the convenience.

The limits are pretty wide in terms of what a wire can actually handle.  For an atomizer connector, you could even get away with 24 gauge if runs are short and currents are not too high.  The eGo batteries use 26 gauge wire for the atomizer connection.  I wouldn't use that myself, but they get away with it.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on December 16, 2013, 08:23:15 PM
Craig, I think I remember you talking about output capacitance and how it can affect efficiency.  I believe it was also to do with ESR and the effects of too high or too low ESR.

I have a question about wiring.  I usually use 20AWG solid core for input and output.  Can a smaller gauge wire be used for the adjust pin?

If you do the math, the circuit pulls only .0003  amps you can use almost a piece of hair thin  for it I have a piece of 32ga on mine works flawlessly..   18ga  and or 16 for in/out makes a huge temperature difference to the battery.  I am not sure  if using a digital pot and using thinner gauge
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on December 17, 2013, 03:57:23 PM
Just about all digital chips have very low power consumption.  It's something you can usually take for granted.  That's why PCB traces only a few hundred microns wide are usually sufficient for those.  The digital pot I use has a draw less than a milliamp.  The MCU I use has a draw only about 5 miliamps.  Things like LEDs draw a little more, but it's still pretty low, 10 to 20 milliamps.  A PCB trace a half mm wide is still ample for those.  Copper clad is usually about 40 microns thick so a trace 40 microns by 200 microns is like a wire a tenth of a mm in diamater.  That's not much thicker than a hair.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mick8844 on December 17, 2013, 04:54:32 PM
So guys I am a bit of a noob and want to build a new device . I can solder and do have the proper equpiment to do so, as well as the supplies wire 510 connectors etc. I want to make a 50 watt device that I CAN READ THE WATTAGE ON. I an not at all sure how to do that technically, but can follow simple direction. I need it to have  a read out of the wattage setting . if this is a possible thing with ork chip ai wouod like some help to get there. components needed etc. and aa drawing.

Kind regards
mick8844
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on December 17, 2013, 07:27:41 PM
Having a wattage readout on a vv regulated device is not a simple thing, especially since there are no off the shelf components for it.

You can go the route of a microcontroller with a digital display, but it's technologically advanced and requires wiring in and working with a microcontroller as well as having programming skills.  There's only a few people that have the skills to do that.

What is easily incorporated into a vv regulated device is a voltage reader for displaying input and output voltage.  You can then easily calculate watts.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on December 17, 2013, 07:46:19 PM
For 23 bucks a little reprogramming you cannot beat this watt and amp meter I have eyes on it..


http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10080


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on December 17, 2013, 08:04:18 PM
Those watts meters are great for testing breadboarded setups, but to put that in a mod you'd need a huge enclosure for it even if you gutted its case and grabbed just the components.  Plus - it needs its own source voltage of ~5v.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on December 17, 2013, 08:25:54 PM
Those watts meters are great for testing breadboarded setups, but to put that in a mod you'd need a huge enclosure for it even if you gutted its case and grabbed just the components.  Plus - it needs its own source voltage of ~5v.

Yes huge 112-160mm mostly all screen lol 
Breadboard just use my multimeter lol

Theres another mini gt meter that would maybe better for a smaller box.

http://www.myrcmart.com/gt-power-mini-30a-watt-meter-power-analyzer-p-6336.html
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on December 22, 2013, 05:14:01 PM
...To reduce input transients, I would add a low ESR 100uF input cap.  If using a main power switch, I'd put it behind the switch so it's already charged when the converter is energized.

Would it be suitable to use one 22uF cap, or 2x22uF caps, on input with the OKR-T10 board?  Is there harm in adding too much capacitance on the input as there is on the output?  Was just wondering.

For input cap, the OKR-T10 datasheet says...
Quote
For best performance, we recommend installing a low-ESR capacitor immediately adjacent to the converter’s input terminals. The capacitor should be a ceramic type such as the Murata GRM32 series or a polymer type. Initial suggested capacitor values are 10 to 22 ?F, rated at twice the expected maximum input voltage. Make sure that the input terminals do not go below the undervoltage shutdown voltage at all times. More input bulk capacitance may be added in parallel (either electrolytic or tantalum) if needed.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on December 23, 2013, 01:03:58 PM
The tantalum polymers are pretty nice caps, they have excellent characteristics.  The cost and size for value ratio is really good with them.  Though the disadvantage with them is they are not as robust as the cermic ones.  They are plorized and suffer hideous failures when hit with negative voltage spikes.  I know since I've blown them up on the bench before.  They explode like a firecracker.  Nothing wakes you up quite like an exploding capacitor. 

Anyway, the only problem with too much input capacitance that immediately comes to mind is that it can cause input voltage to ramp up too slowly.  It depends on the part, but most integrated circuits have a limitation there.  Otherwise, more is better.  You probably would not be able to add too much input capacitance for what you would want to practically fit in an e-cig mod.  Though in some cases, other characteristics can beat out higher capacitance if there's a huge difference between one cap and another.  For example, a 100uF MLCC cap would actually perform better than a 1000uF standard tantalum cap at higher frequencies due to the much lower ESR of the ceramic cap.


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on December 23, 2013, 11:11:29 PM
Your advice is spot on.

Quote
the only problem with too much input capacitance that immediately comes to mind is that it can cause input voltage to ramp up too slowly.

I am using  AVX TAP107K006SCS Tantalum caps in a 4050c
                      Panasonic EEU-FR1A101B         CAP ALUM 100UF 10V 20% RADIAL also  4050c

The Tantalum caps make out in my usage as a perhaps smoother vape than the low esr radial caps
They both are fast  per se'  when dry burning a coil its instant, but theres a twist in the recipe with the Tants its enough to be noticed.  Both vapes are amazing but right now as a novice in hotter vapes they are what I prefer dialing in and out..  Edit:::;; with a single coil, with a dual coil the radial caps definitely.  I had forgot about that experiment.  Burns twice as much juice, I do not dual often...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on December 24, 2013, 03:50:09 AM
Standard tantalums are falling out of favor.  A decade or two ago they were popular as a small footprint solution for higher capacitance values, but MLCC caps have surpassed them in some cases.  The technical advancement for MLCC caps has really taken off in the last decade.  Standard tantalums still go higher in capacitance value and voltage ratings, but you can use an array of MLCCs to get the values you need and it may not be any more expensive or use any more circuit board real estate.

Standard tantalum capacitors have an awful ESR characteristic, like several Ohms compared to a few hundredths of an Ohm for an electrolytic and a few thousandths of an Ohm for an MLCC cap.  That's comparing an electrolytic with a higher voltage rating and an MLCC cap in one the larger footprints.  ESR goes up for smaller MLCCs like the 0805 and 0603 sizes.  ESR goes up for electrolytics when voltage ratings fall under ten Volts.  Though it's not a huge amount in either case, less than an order of magnitude.

Standard tantalums can still be useful for low frequency applications, but for the frequencies utilized by the switching regulators we typically use, they're pretty worthless.  Now tantalum polymers are something entirely different.  Those are much better performers and compete nicely with MLCC caps.  If I was not going to use an MLCC cap with a switching regulator, I would use a tantalum polymer.  I actually did use them for one one of the early mods designs I did.  They do have their advantages like controlled ESR and very nice stability over temperature and voltage.  The negatives are they're bit larger, they're polarized, and have lower ripple tolerance.  Also, they can only be driven within about 80% of their rating, in other words, they're over-rated.  MLCC caps are typically under-rated and can usually handle moderate overloading without issue.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 19, 2014, 05:06:09 PM
Hello all! I had a question about the OKR t10 chip, if I may. I have dabbled in electronics for awhile and  familiar with ohms law, voltage and current, wiring, soldering etc. Been reading through the forum here and i have A LOT to learn but I am willing. I have a few mechs, a couple Vamos and am comfortable rebuilding my own coils. I have been wanting to make my own mod and decided to use the OKR t10. I have it all wired up and when i went to test voltage output to my atomizer its output is 7volts! (I am using 2 18650 efest 30 amp batteries wired in series.) My potentiometer is a 200 ohm and I measure a sweep from 0 ohms to 185 ohms. Voltage when firing goes from 7 to 7.8ish when dialing the pot and watching at the atomizer. I put an atomiser at 1.8 ohms on to load the circuit and it hits like a truck and I can't turn it down. I made sure not to hold the iron on the t10 board for more than a few seconds and presoldered every wire and pin. Should I just solder another chip in? I know the diagram adds a 200 ohm resistor, which I didn't do to have maximum adjustability. Thank you all so much in advance for the help, hopefully I can pass it on someday.  :thankyou:

Ugh, I'm sorry guys. Classic "didnt read the spec sheet deep enough turns out I do need the 200ohm resistors. The scaling was backwards in my head for some reason. I'm sorry!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 19, 2014, 05:39:40 PM
That is close to exactly what your output would be if you used a 0 to 185 ohm pot. If you look at the datasheet RTRIM formula 7 volts output with the pot max'd at 184.43K ohms and 7.8v for 0 ohms. Use the fixed 200 ohm in series.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 19, 2014, 05:55:46 PM
Thank you so much for your patience. I don't know why I had it backwards in my head. Just freaked me out to see almost 8 volts  freaked_out:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on January 19, 2014, 07:16:41 PM
curiousnoob, don't sweat it, I do stuff like that all the time, in fact when I was reading your post I thought, "this sounds like something I've done before" lol

Oh and Welcome!!  ;cheers;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 19, 2014, 07:31:38 PM
Added 200 ohm resistor Inline and she's spot on!! :-D happy Vaping everyone, I know I will be!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 19, 2014, 08:44:35 PM
Nice! now lets see it. How about a new topic showing it?
BTW: welcome to the forum
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CharlieC on January 21, 2014, 06:32:54 PM
Hi guys

im going to make an OKR-T 10 mod

I have read this thread and its very useful.  Thanks to everyone who put in info

I still have a few questions

What type of  fuses should i use.

Im an electrician so i only know a little bit about electronics.

what kind of current am i expecting to draw from the batteries and what should the fuse be rated for.

also if i wanted a voltage meter to display my output can i just wire the voltmeter in series with the atty connector

any help with this would be greatly appreciated

also any ideas for building an okr mod maybe things that you have added to make it better

thanks everyone

Charlie
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 21, 2014, 06:56:24 PM
As far as fuses, I don't know. Honestly I haven't put one in my mod because the chip has short circuit protection, if a wire were to short before the chip however, probably not a bad idea. As for a voltmeter, I check voltage in parallel with the atomiser connector. Series would be a good example for an ammeter install tho. In series the meter would also have to take the current draw of the atomiser installed. I would speculate if you wired a voltmeter to the ground of the battery and put a 2 way switch and split the positive wires, put one on the battery positive and the other on the atomizer positive you can select which voltage you want to monitor. With the switch in one position, the voltmeter would show battery pack voltage and in the other position it would read atomiser voltage.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CharlieC on January 21, 2014, 07:03:37 PM
awesome

I thought about the voltmeter after I posted.

duh

not in series.

sorry I'm slow today.

I didn't plan on putting in fuses I was just wondering

thanks for the reply
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 21, 2014, 07:05:42 PM
Not a problem, I did the same exact thing a few days ago, only realized after I posted what I had to do. Cheers and any questions feel free to post! Happy Vaping  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on January 21, 2014, 07:11:47 PM
Hi guys

Hi there, welcome to the forum.

Quote
What type of  fuses should i use.

The type of fuse is a PTC (polymeric positive temperature coefficient) which is a resetable type, in other words, it trips when there's a fault and returns to a low resistance state when the fault clears.  They are widely available and inexpensive.  You can use the leaded type or the surface mount type.  There's a thread here with a long discussion about PTC fuses which should be a help for you;  http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,723.0.html

Quote
what kind of current am i expecting to draw from the batteries and what should the fuse be rated for.

For the OKR-T/10, maximum output power is 50W so maximum input power would be 60W providing a liberal margin for losses.  Minimum battery voltage is 6V with two cells in series so maximum input current is 10A.  For PTC fuses, you typcially use the "hold" rating equal to maximum input, but you can go under an amount since trip currents are typically around double the hold current. 

Quote
also if i wanted a voltage meter to display my output can i just wire the voltmeter in series with the atty connector

You can get 1S-6S voltmeters for hobby applications that are commonly used in mods.  They're cheap and you can find them on eBay or at HobbyKing.
I almost commented on the series-parallel thing, but then I saw you corrected it, but yeah, voltmeters in parallel, ammeters in series.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CharlieC on January 21, 2014, 07:19:21 PM
Thanks craigHB

I just made myself look bad, I'm an electrician hahahahha.

you sound like an engineer.

thanks for the info on fuses.

do you reccomend using them?

are they necessary for the okr or for safety?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 21, 2014, 07:32:22 PM
The OKR has onboard overcurrent protection, but no reverse polarity protection.   So, yes - fuses are necessary for safety.

I use these 2x in parallel for a 10A hold current for the OKR-T10: AGRF500-2.

You can go to octopart.com and enter the part number and find who sells them and who has the best price.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on January 21, 2014, 07:34:57 PM
Yes, a fuse is recommended in the data sheet for the OKR-T/10.  Primarily it's for reverse polarity protection since the switching regulator provides over-current protection through its control circuits.  In any case, it's generally a good idea to fuse anything powered by a Li-Ion battery since a current fault can cause the cell to overheat and catch fire.  Even if it's not a matter of safety, current faults can damage things that might otherwise be repairable.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 21, 2014, 07:38:07 PM
I should look into those fuses, I didn't even think about that to be honest. Thank you everyone for the info! Time to go shopping :-) cheers!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CharlieC on January 21, 2014, 08:25:53 PM
alright I will get some fuses

one more question

I'm going to use 18650's what do you guys recommend ?

I usually use mnke batteries for my mechs.

I've got 4 brand new ones I was planning on using for this.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on January 21, 2014, 08:47:31 PM
Here are the voltmeters I'm currently using. 
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/370856987636?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
It's a Canadian Ebay listing ....I see you are a Canuck like me :)

Welcome and cheers!!   ;cheers;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 21, 2014, 08:51:18 PM
Kortt, if I may ask, how do you make the bezel or lense for your voltmeters like the one linked? I'm pretty careful with my cuts but I see mods here with gorgeous LCD/led panel meters and I haven't a clue shown its done. Thanks in advance for any info!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on January 21, 2014, 09:52:46 PM
Kortt, if I may ask, how do you make the bezel or lense for your voltmeters like the one linked? I'm pretty careful with my cuts but I see mods here with gorgeous LCD/led panel meters and I haven't a clue shown its done. Thanks in advance for any info!
I don't use a bezel myself since I build my enclosures out of wood, but here is a thread with links to where you can get bezels for the DNA20 (and 30 likely) and the voltmeters:
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1044.0.html
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 21, 2014, 11:02:49 PM
Page is bookmarked, Thank you! How do you mill a perfect rectangle in wood :-D you guys have skills well beyond me, can't wait to develop my own.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CharlieC on January 21, 2014, 11:39:06 PM
Here are the voltmeters I'm currently using. 
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/370856987636?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
It's a Canadian Ebay listing ....I see you are a Canuck like me :)

Welcome and cheers!!   ;cheers;

Thanks

this forum looks like it will help me alot.

It is nice knowing im not the only crazy canuck around freaked_out:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on January 22, 2014, 12:51:37 AM
Page is bookmarked, Thank you! How do you mill a perfect rectangle in wood :-D you guys have skills well beyond me, can't wait to develop my own.
I mark it out with a pencil and then use  various tools, xacto knife, dremel, needle files. Pretty simple really.  My stuff is pretty rough, but I'm getting a bit better at it.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 22, 2014, 06:58:39 AM
Here are the voltmeters I'm currently using. 
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/370856987636?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
It's a Canadian Ebay listing ....I see you are a Canuck like me :)

Welcome and cheers!!   ;cheers;

Yes kortt. Those are the meters that I have been using. I like them better than the 1s6s type which takes some time to pulse through 6 cells before reading the single cell. The advantage of the 1s6s is that you can read multiple batteries without needing a switch. For instance you can wire the first (+) for output voltage and second (+) for battery voltage.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jrweber02 on January 24, 2014, 11:33:38 AM
Thanks for the post it was very helpful in my first build breaktru :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CharlieC on January 24, 2014, 11:42:57 AM
Thank you to everyone who posted the great info.

I started building my mod last night.

soldered all the components and epoyxed the battery holders in my box.

I rigged it to test output voltage and it was functioning perfectly.

so I threw my kayfun with a 0.9 ohm coil on it and tested.

this setup hits hard, damn hard.

can't wait to try some dual coil gennie action on this.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 24, 2014, 12:57:03 PM
Nice going JR and Charlie. We would be interested in seeing a New Topic showing your mods.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 24, 2014, 01:02:04 PM
Question regarding a voltage cutoff for the OKR. I want to make a simple circuit to ground pin 1 when voltage drops below 6.5 volts. I know I could make something to close a switch above a certain voltage but having to have it close at a low voltage is where my electronics theory is poor. I don't even need an answer to the problem directly. Can someone point to a theory lesson that may improve my own knowledge in doing something like this? I want to learn, not be spoon fed  :laughing2: thank you all for your patience and responses.
Oh, and I read somewhere, maybe one of mamu's posts that I would need a resistor across 2 pins to prevent the box to continually fire? I didn't see it in the schematic. Thanks again!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 24, 2014, 01:50:06 PM
Question regarding a voltage cutoff for the OKR. I want to make a simple circuit to ground pin 1 when voltage drops below 6.5 volts. I know I could make something to close a switch above a certain voltage but having to have it close at a low voltage is where my electronics theory is poor. I don't even need an answer to the problem directly.[/b] Can someone point to a theory lesson that may improve my own knowledge in doing something like this? I want to learn, not be spoon fed  :laughing2: thank you all for your patience and responses.
Oh, and I read somewhere, maybe one of mamu's posts that I would need a resistor across 2 pins to prevent the box to continually fire? I didn't see it in the schematic. Thanks again!

Your post is hilarious


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: DRA on January 24, 2014, 01:55:03 PM
Question regarding a voltage cutoff for the OKR. I want to make a simple circuit to ground pin 1 when voltage drops below 6.5 volts. I know I could make something to close a switch above a certain voltage but having to have it close at a low voltage is where my electronics theory is poor. I don't even need an answer to the problem directly. Can someone point to a theory lesson that may improve my own knowledge in doing something like this? I want to learn, not be spoon fed  :laughing2: thank you all for your patience and responses.
Oh, and I read somewhere, maybe one of mamu's posts that I would need a resistor across 2 pins to prevent the box to continually fire? I didn't see it in the schematic. Thanks again!

Mamu says to use a 5.6v Zener Diode and a 10K resistor between Pins 1 & 2. See: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg10324.html#msg10324 (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg10324.html#msg10324)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kortt on January 24, 2014, 01:57:47 PM
Your post is hilarious
It might be hilarious, but it's valid.  I have the same sentiment, I want to learn this stuff too and would prefer to have the knowledge to understand it over just building from a pre-made schematic.  That is one of the reason I do my "kindergarten" style wiring diagrams. It helps me understand things in my own way. :)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 24, 2014, 02:55:08 PM
It might be hilarious, but it's valid.  I have the same sentiment, I want to learn this stuff too and would prefer to have the knowledge to understand it over just building from a pre-made schematic.  That is one of the reason I do my "kindergarten" style wiring diagrams. It helps me understand things in my own way. :)

No what he said about answering the post I even underlined and bolded it.

aha   ;cheers;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 24, 2014, 03:39:04 PM
If you look at breaktru's second pic in the OP, he uses a NC switch on pin 1 and without a resister across pins 1 and 3.

The wiring I've done is a bit different using a NO switch and with a 10K resister across pins 1 (on/off control) and 3 (gnd) to prevent auto firing of the converter.

If you want your cutoff voltage to be around 6.5v (I don't know why you would want it that high though), use a 6.1v or 6.2v zener diode on pin 1.

pin 1 > zener anode (+)
zener cathode (-) > one lead of the fire button

pin2 > other lead of the fire button/batt +

How a zener diode works as a low voltage cutoff is that it allows current to flow IF the input voltage is above the zener's breakdown voltage.  When input voltage gets below the zener's s breakdown voltage it shuts off current flow which shuts off the converter from firing.

For more info on how a zener diode works, there's several online tutorials available on electronic sites - just google how does a zener diode work or something along those lines.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 24, 2014, 04:08:06 PM
Thank you all for your responses! Now while I understand how a zener diode functions (always allows current flow in one direction, refuses current flow in opposing direction until a certain voltage/ saturation voltage is met), what I guess I'm confused about is the OKR circuitry. Pin 1 needs to be grounded to shutoff the converter. Does pin 1 use a certain voltage that gets pulled down when grounded telling the chip to not fire? If that's so, when the zener diodes saturation point drops and it stops flow of current in that direction, the path open is the one to ground through the resistor? I'm sorry I'm so new at this.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on January 24, 2014, 05:15:34 PM
The enable pin uses a logic level input to determine the on or off state.  Logic levels are typically .3 V and below for a 0 (disabled) or .6 Volts and above for a 1 (enabled).  There are different logic levels employed, for example TTL logic has higher thresholds, but CMOS logic is by far most common and those have the lower threshholds I mentioned.

Zener diodes rely on the reverse breakdown characteristic of a junction diode.  When voltage is below the breakdown voltage, no current flows other than a small leakage.  When voltage is higher than the breakdown voltage, an "avalanche" condition occurs across the diode's junction.  This results in higher current flow as the diode tries to maintain the breakdown voltage.

The resistor is required to limit current flow when the diode junction is in an avalache condition.  At the resistor, voltage will be the source minus the breakdown voltage when the diode is conducting (source above breakdown voltage) or zero when the diode is not conducting (source below breakdown voltage).

I totally agree about the statement made before, it's better to take the time to understand what you're doing than to just copy a schematic blindly.  Besides, electronics is a really interesting study anyway, at least it's always been for me.

Simplified drawings can be handy, but a hobbyist really needs to get comfortable with using a proper schematic.  When circuits get more involved, there's just no way around that.


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 24, 2014, 05:49:44 PM
That was an excellent description Craig, I appreciate the time you spent typing all that out. I see much more clearly now how that functions!  :thankyou: I think I need a breadboard to experiment with the circuits and maybe gain a more hands on knowledge of precisely how everything works.

Also, mamu, I was aiming for 6.5 volt cutoff because I have always read individual cell voltage shouldn't drop below 3.2 volts, I figured for errors sake with an individual cell, 6.5 would suffice. Is there any harm in actually going to 6 volts before the circuit shuts down? I realize the voltage at rest is higher than under load. Just trying to be cautious about proper battery care.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 24, 2014, 06:49:05 PM
The replies are why your post was hilarious.  Wealth of knowledge here.. 

Did not post as the giggle  went in my head...   

Theres a guy on here  building a 3d printer among others also doing engineering level builds.  I think they can handle your/our questions..  :laughing2:

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 24, 2014, 06:58:36 PM
Visus, I am sorry, I didn't mean for it to be worded that way. I know everyone on this site has a tremendous amount of experience and knowledge, much more than myself. I just simply didn't want an answer or schematic. I need reading material to learn what I am doing. I apologise if my post came off like that.  ;cheers;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 24, 2014, 07:21:55 PM
Curious when the economy was good, courses we're offered for free  on just about everything you can think of hobby and professional.  It was called the learning annex.  They have moved to the web, as sponsors are to few to keep the doors open these days.  I really miss them my ol lady stayed a block away from their building and I always wanted take an electronics course but never got around to it.  :wallbash:

I like schematics myself and data sheet its my daily job reading blueprints but our schematics and legends are kindergarten compared to electronic sheets, once those open up in the brain it moves to the mechanical side and only by doing will the mechanical side become awesome..  Its why Ironman is the mechanic he is all hands on, all do,  at his point of electronics implementation and nothing is impossible.. 

http://learningannex.com/
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 24, 2014, 07:29:33 PM
Thank you for the response. I've always wanted to take an electronics course but saw that as more of a hobby and decided on vehicle repair as a trade. (I may have mentioned I'm not the brightest crayon in the box)  The grass is always greener.. I know a little about electrical, HVAC, hydraulics, electronics, networking, mechanical etc but haven't mastered the one I am truly interested in. Electronics. Not even close. I look forward to absorbing as much as possible and maybe someday creating my own circuits to solve my own problems as well as pass it on.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 24, 2014, 10:41:15 PM
...Also, mamu, I was aiming for 6.5 volt cutoff because I have always read individual cell voltage shouldn't drop below 3.2 volts, I figured for errors sake with an individual cell, 6.5 would suffice. Is there any harm in actually going to 6 volts before the circuit shuts down? I realize the voltage at rest is higher than under load. Just trying to be cautious about proper battery care.

yes - 3.2v cutoff for li-poly cells.  Cylindrical cells should safely go to 3v.

Cautious is a good thing, so use what you are comfortable with.

I'm thinking of upping the 5.6v zener to 6v.  I had a batt go to 2.75v with the Raptor and the other batt was 3.44v (total unloaded was 6.2v).

Most protection circuits on protected batts kick-in around 2.75v, but still I really don't want a cylindrical batt to go below 3v.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: curiousnoob on January 24, 2014, 10:44:47 PM
Thanks mamu!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on January 26, 2014, 03:06:42 AM
The 2C round cells are typically 2.7V, but I've seen some that are as low as 2.5V.  The LiPos and high drain round cells are all flat at 3.0V.  The minimums for a cell include the voltage sag you get under load.  For the lower drain cells, the drop under load can be considerable.  For a high performance cell with really low internal resistance like a 20C LiPo or one of the ultra-high drain 18650s, there's not much drop even under heavy load so a voltage can be used across the board with those.

You get the absolute most out of a cell if you take it down to the limit, but once you get into the part of the discharge curve that falls off sharply there's not much to be gained.  There's really no considerable amount of charge in the last third of a Volt.  It's better not to stress the cell for the little you can get out of it.  If you take a high drain cell to 3.3V, you're good.  For those I generally do a minimum of 3.3 to 3.4 for open circuit voltage and 3.1 to 3.2 under load. 

You want your Zener to have a voltage spec a little lower than the cutoff voltage since the logic will toggle low a small amount above zero volts.  A 6V Zener should get you close, but there's wiggle room in the logic levels so it can vary depending on the regulator.  It also depends on the resistor value since higher values can cause offsets due to leakage currents.  You want a higher value resistor to minimize power loss, but if it's too high, it can cause an offset level above logic low.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: timesarerough on January 26, 2014, 03:25:20 AM
I know since I've blown them up on the bench before.  They explode like a firecracker.  Nothing wakes you up quite like an exploding capacitor.

That's precisely WHERE I stopped attempting to make my own mod myself!  scared:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on January 26, 2014, 03:55:41 AM
Hehe, hasn't stopped me.

I don't use polarized ones much anymore, at least for mods.  The only time I use a polarized cap is if an MLCC cap can't do the job.  Higher value MLCC caps have an ugly DC bias characterstic that often rejects them for higher voltage stuff.  If it wasn't for that, they would be the perfect capacitor. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 26, 2014, 05:32:41 AM
...You want your Zener to have a voltage spec a little lower than the cutoff voltage since the logic will toggle low a small amount above zero volts.  A 6V Zener should get you close, but there's wiggle room in the logic levels so it can vary depending on the regulator.  It also depends on the resistor value since higher values can cause offsets due to leakage currents.  You want a higher value resistor to minimize power loss, but if it's too high, it can cause an offset level above logic low.

The 5.6v zener I'm using with the Raptor does a great job and cuts off at 6v loaded.  The problem is with the unbalanced discharge with the lead batt getting discharged more - so far down to 2.75v.  That voltage is not a big deal for cylindrical cells, but it has me worried that if the lead cell is discharged even more I'd run into issues with it.

I'd like to keep both cells from going lower than 3v each, so a 6v zener will solve that.  I don't mind a bit of a higher cutoff, especially with using the LG batts as I get loooooooong vape time with the 2500mAh before they run down.

As for the resistor, really can't use much of a higher value as the converter then won't shut off as you indicated.  For the Raptor the datasheet recommends 7.5K and that's what I used. 

For the OKR, I use 10K.  I remember tinkering with that a few years back.  CapeCAD had used a 100K for the OKR-T3 and no one at that time had set up the OKR-T6 using the enable pin.  So I went with testing the 100K and slowly decremented that by 10K or so at a time til I got down to 10K and that's what it took to shut the converter off.

No resister on the enable pin the converter is always on always firing.  Too high of a resister you get the same thing.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jackson on January 27, 2014, 01:52:31 PM
Quote
CapeCAD had used a 100K for the OKR-T3 and no one at that time had set up the OKR-T6 using the enable pin.
Well not to overly knock CapeCad but in his first foray he kept insisting he had the 'E' version of the OKR.  There were two versions listed by Murata.  Unfortunately the one he claimed he was using wasn't available anywhere.

Quote
Remote On/Off Control (Note 5) [Standard version]
 Positive Logic ON = +1.5 V. to +Vin max. or open pin
 OFF = –0.3 to +0.4 V. max. or ground pin
 Current 1 mA

Remote On/Off Control [“E” version]
 Positive Logic ON = +2 V. to +Vin max.,
 49Kohm pulldown to ground
 OFF = open pin or –0.3 to +0.4 V. max.
 Current 1 mA max..

My question, wouldn't it possible to use a trimmer for pulldown and simply tweak it, let's say using a constant 6.5V input (or what ever value folks want as a cutoff), till it shut down?

Here is Note 5.
Quote
The On/Off Control is normally controlled by a switch or open collector or open drain resistor.  But it may also be driven with external logic or by applying appropriate external voltages which are referenced to Input Common.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 27, 2014, 03:55:25 PM
well - helloooooo WillyB.  :laughing:

I don't know why you'd doubt CapeCAD, but I believe he said he had gotten the E version from a rep or something along those lines.

If you want to tinker with a trimmer to get an exact resistor value that will shut off the converter at a specific input voltage while still preventing the converter from auto-firing, let us know your results.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on January 29, 2014, 05:12:02 AM
Hehe, WillyB, I seem to recall that user name from years past.

You could use a trimmer to do essentially the same things as the Zener-resistor combo.  However, there are advantages to the Zener-resistor combo over a simple voltage divider.  Like mamu said, you can always try it and see how it works.  I should explain why a Zener is better, but it's late here and I need to get off the forum about now.  Maybe later.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 30, 2014, 05:21:32 PM
I've built two of these now and both are outputting 6-7.4 volts? I've checked thoroughly. My wiring is fine. What might be wrong? Thanx.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 30, 2014, 06:48:38 PM
I've built two of these now and both are outputting 6-7.4 volts? I've checked thoroughly. My wiring is fine. What might be wrong? Thanx.

What value pot and fixed resistor did you use?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 30, 2014, 07:01:08 PM
220 fixed 200 pot
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 30, 2014, 08:16:08 PM
Could it be wired wrong or maybe the parts are not 220 and 200 ohms?
Maybe we can help by seeing a close up
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 30, 2014, 08:53:44 PM
Would connecting the 220 ohm resistor to the middle leg be the problem? Should it be on one of the outside legs?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 30, 2014, 09:16:47 PM
The middle leg of the trimmer should be wired to ground.  The resister is wired to one of the outer legs - need to check which leg turns clockwise and which one will turn the voltage counterclockwise.  You want to use the leg that turns the voltage from low to high (clockwise).

Either cut off the unused leg, or tie it to ground.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 30, 2014, 10:04:22 PM
hurry man get that did
valentines is around the corner im not gay but could use an okr mod..
 like in 1st grade  candy for everyone..

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 30, 2014, 10:10:41 PM
Cool. A simple flip of the pot and I'm golden. Got one with a voltage display and one without.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 30, 2014, 10:31:06 PM
Great news!

Yeah - with the way you had wired it you were only getting 0 - 200 ohms (6v - 7v range), instead of 220 - 420 ohms (3.3v - 6v range).  The lower the ohms the higher the voltage.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 30, 2014, 11:21:26 PM
Ok now I'm seriously confused... I flipped it around and same deal. Then I tried another pot with the opposite leg and same thing. I'm seriously not understanding what's wrong.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 30, 2014, 11:24:08 PM
I thought you had it fixed?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 31, 2014, 12:05:20 AM
No I never got it fixed. I just assumed that was the answer. Now that I've fiddled with it more nothing seems to change it. No matter where I place the pot or the resistor. I tried just about every combination just to see. I'm so confused. I'm out over $100 in parts total and very worried I won't even get wither working.  (http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad42/chloesdad2010/Mobile%20Uploads/20140130_202854.jpg)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 31, 2014, 12:31:31 AM
It's hard to tell exactly how the trimmer is wired.

For just the trimmer wiring:
pin 5 > resister > one outer leg of the trimmer

pin 3 > middle leg of trimmer
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 31, 2014, 12:40:29 AM
Yeah that's how I have it set up. Pin 5 is the one with the resistor. Then That red wire is jumper ed from the center of the pot to pin 3.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 31, 2014, 12:55:56 AM
What's really weird is I've tried this same thing on both mods I built and they both do the exact same thing.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 31, 2014, 01:49:10 AM
It sounds like only the resister is wired in for you to be getting a 6v-7v range only.

If you've got the trimmer wired correctly, like breaktru said, double check to make sure you have a 200 ohm trimmer.

Double check that the trimmer is reading 0 to 200 ohms by metering it or double check the resister + trimmer is reading 220-420 ohms by metering it.

Those thumbwheel trimmers break easily.

oh... and you might try creating a solder bridge on the circuit board to make sure all pins along a line are connected.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 31, 2014, 02:20:14 AM
I've done continuity tests. They're all connected. I'll check it tomorow for resistance. I know the pots are 200 ohm as they're marked. If the pot was dead though then why would it still change the value? If it's broke would it still vari the voltage at all? Also I've noticed it starts at 6. Then about halfway through the full turn it goes up to 7.4 and stays at that even if you turn it all the way. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 31, 2014, 02:45:52 AM
He's using strip board and needs to cut the strip out.   :laughing2:

It all makes sense now he has wires touching on there somewhere.

Show it flipped as well where you pinned out.   That chip is uber easy to build with, it  is super simple and not many reasons why it wont work right..  So it has to be wires touching on the chip even..

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 31, 2014, 02:57:02 AM
I'll get more pics tomorow but nothing is crossed or touching. The bottom is quite clean. Yes it is a 5 row interconnect board. I also built another on a different type of interconnect board. Same issue. I've gone over it carefully. I've clipped pin 1. So what's you're seeing there is pins 2-5. Then one open row that I've given to the middle pin of the 200 ohm pot. I then jumpered from that row with the middle pin of the pot to pin 3 as diagrammed. This was a dammed clean professional build before I tore it all apart. It's still very well done. My soldering skills are fine. There's nothing crossed. The other unit is doing the exact same and nothing crossed there either. So this is why I'm confused. It may very well be bad pots. Not sure why they would still vari the voltage though if there toast.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 31, 2014, 03:05:57 AM
Really easy to check pots on your meter.  It may be bad chips even. 
But two, you are unlucky if so and I must rub on my belly now so I win SB bet. 

I reversed all pins on a  08100 build, the third one I built  I did it upside down I luckily realized before clipping  pin 1.. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 31, 2014, 03:50:51 AM
If you have a voltage range of 7.4v - 6v, there is an ohm range of 174 - 220.

For 6v - 3.3v range you should have an ohm range of 220 - 420.

So something is off with either the resister or the trimmer or both.

I didn't mean to check continuity, but to read the ohm range of the trimmer.  Set the multimeter on ohms - put one probe on the center leg of the trimmer and one probe on the outer leg and read the ohms.  Then turn the trimmer's dial and check the ohms again.  What range are you getting from the trimmer?  You should be getting 0 - 200 ohms for the range.

Now meter the ohms for the resister.  Does it read 220 ohms?

You can also disconnect the trimmer, and check the voltage - with just a 220 ohm resister you should have a fixed voltage of 6v.  If no resister and no trimmer, you should get a fixed voltage of 0.591v.

If you've checked the wiring and verified that the wiring is correct, you can narrow the problem down by troubleshooting the resister and the trimmer.

Other than that, you may have a bad board.  But you said both your mods are doing the same thing.  So it's either the wiring, the resister you've chosen, or the trimmer you've chosen.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 31, 2014, 06:54:23 AM
If that is PCB with the tracers, it looks like it is not wired correctly. Like mamu said, only the resistor is in the circuit.
Look at the PCB board I show for the PTR08100. The wiring is the same. Just don't add the caps.

(http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=170.0;attach=495;image)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on January 31, 2014, 12:54:15 PM
Thanx guys. No mamu I am gonna do that. I know what you meant but you also said make sure they're connected. The continuity test shows of they're connected. I know how to measure the resistance. I should have stated this isn't my first mod at all. Been modding for a few years. I also work on and modify my own guitar amps. So i know about testing it all. I just haven't yet. I just saw that one trace needs to be cut. That's going to be where my whole problem is I bet. I didn't cut the trace where the resistor is. Otherwise mine looks exactly like that one you posted breaktru. I'll try that today and I bet it fixes It all. It's allowing that resistor to be partially skipped. Makes sense now. I'll report back once I try.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 31, 2014, 03:00:41 PM
Thanx guys. No mamu I am gonna do that. I know what you meant but you also said make sure they're connected. The continuity test shows of they're connected. I know how to measure the resistance. I should have stated this isn't my first mod at all. Been modding for a few years. I also work on and modify my own guitar amps. So i know about testing it all. I just haven't yet. I just saw that one trace needs to be cut. That's going to be where my whole problem is I bet. I didn't cut the trace where the resistor is. Otherwise mine looks exactly like that one you posted breaktru. I'll try that today and I bet it fixes It all. It's allowing that resistor to be partially skipped. Makes sense now. I'll report back once I try.

Told ya I was genius if thats it, if not, I still am genuine..  :fun:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on January 31, 2014, 03:11:07 PM
LOL Visus.  :laughing:

Let us know, basementcat, how it goes.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Iamthebadass on February 08, 2014, 02:11:40 AM
I have a quick question that is probably super noob...

When using a slide switch as power off, what are the specs on it if I am planning on pulling 10A?

All the switches I have are <1A. Am I missing something?

What slide switch should I use as an off switch?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: basementcat on February 08, 2014, 02:28:44 AM
Thanx so much for all the help. Got them both working perfect now.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on February 08, 2014, 07:58:50 AM
I have a quick question that is probably super noob...

When using a slide switch as power off, what are the specs on it if I am planning on pulling 10A?

All the switches I have are <1A. Am I missing something?

What slide switch should I use as an off switch?

See attached spec image below. Note that you are using an input of 8.4v max so a switch rated a 3A @ 125v would be more than ample. Input amps are less than output amps on a buck converter. Max output is 10A and max input is 4.53A.
Mini Slide Switch (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/CS12ANW03/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRcpRel%252bqFBSa42ziMW8wx9tM%3d)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on February 09, 2014, 02:53:47 PM
Evening all  :)

My first post on here, so apologies if it's a bit of a stupid one...

I've built a couple of DNA20 mods so far, and have ordered parts to have a go at making a compact twin 18350 mod using the schematics from this thread. It's my first go at a stepdown VV mod, and from my research so far it's going to be a lot more complex than using a DNA board  :laughing:

My question is... if I want to incorporate a volt display into this circuit, where do I wire it?

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Mandro on February 09, 2014, 03:32:19 PM
Hi wreck, it's good to see you over here.
I haven't used this chip yet but I think that the voltage display will be wired the same as the ptr 08100.
If your using the 2 wire display like the ones that stealthvape sell you wire the red to your chip output that goes to the atty and the black to ground.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on February 09, 2014, 03:55:46 PM
Well hello there Mandro  :laughing:

I've been lurking on here long enough abusing the resources, I thought I should get stuck in :)

Thanks for that. I've noticed that stealthvape sell the two wired ones they list as being 1s voltmeters, and they also do one they list as 1s-6s which has 7 legs? What's the difference between the two?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Mandro on February 09, 2014, 04:13:20 PM
I haven't used the 1s-6s version, but the site says that you can read up to six different batteries by attaching them separately to each of the 1-6 posts.
The 1s-6s version looks a bit big, I've been getting my displays off eBay, they do a smaller version but they take a while to get here.
I'm still abusing this sites resources lol
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on February 09, 2014, 04:19:26 PM
Nice one, cheers Mandro :)

I'll give one of the 1s displays a try
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Iamthebadass on February 09, 2014, 09:09:06 PM
If I were doing a build with the PB switch inline with power and pin 2, could I still use a Zener diode from pin 1-3? Or would that not work?

I have not used sneer diodes before, but low voltage cutoff sounds like a good idea...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on February 09, 2014, 09:25:57 PM
If I were doing a build with the PB switch inline with power and pin 2, could I still use a Zener diode from pin 1-3? Or would that not work?

I have not used sneer diodes before, but low voltage cutoff sounds like a good idea...

A zener diode is on pin 1 only, not across pins 1 and 3.

I've not got around to testing the OKR-T10 yet and seeing if the 10K resister across pins 1 and 3 is ok for the T10 as it was for the T6.  I've been told that a 5k is what the T10 needs, but have not verified that yet.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Iamthebadass on February 09, 2014, 09:31:27 PM
So a Zener would go from the switch (that is going in to pin 2) to pin 1?

 And with a 5k resistor from 1-3 to stop the okr from auto firing yes?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: katoptrizo on February 18, 2014, 11:27:58 AM
So a Zener would go from the switch (that is going in to pin 2) to pin 1?

 And with a 5k resistor from 1-3 to stop the okr from auto firing yes?

If your pushbutton is between battery+ and pin 2 my understanding is that there is no auto-firing so therefore no need for the resistor across pins 1 and 3.  This is because the circuit is open when the switch is not depressed.

Additionally, according to my understanding, you cannot use the diode as a low voltage protection when not using the remote pin (pin 1) as there is no control voltage on pin 2, which is your +vIN.

Someone had better double check me, since this is my first post and I'm still learning as well.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JonGio on February 25, 2014, 02:10:39 PM
Hey guys.  Been on EcF form  a while then joined Mamu's forum and heard about this forum.  I'm hardly on EcF anymore anyway.  I own Mist Vapoe, LLC and I make custom wooden mods. I use DNA chips so this is a little dif.  I get the caps before the switch but what resettable fuse would you use.  I have a bunch on the way but all I have now is small fuses that will not reset.  I don't care if I blow them but where is a good place to start as far as amps.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on February 25, 2014, 05:18:15 PM
Hey guys.  Been on EcF form  a while then joined Mamu's forum and heard about this forum.  I'm hardly on EcF anymore anyway.  I own Mist Vapoe, LLC and I make custom wooden mods. I use DNA chips so this is a little dif.  I get the caps before the switch but what resettable fuse would you use.  I have a bunch on the way but all I have now is small fuses that will not reset.  I don't care if I blow them but where is a good place to start as far as amps.


Hi JonGio and welcome to the forum. Nice of you to drop by.

We've had some discussion about it in this topic as well as the "Wiring a PTC" topic.

For the OKR-T/10 use a 10A. Two 5A fuses in parallel to half the PTC resistance and double the Amp rating.
For the OKR-T/6 use Two 3A fuses in parallel.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on February 25, 2014, 05:45:16 PM
Mamu has a forum? wow I had no idea...   

Hi new guy,  this is a great tinkering site as well as some serious income can be made..  Break even has payroll software, ejuice calculator, that guy is a saint and his last name Giordano, I believe he is part of the pizza mafia family who have owned and fed our city deep dish stuffed for many years now lol...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JonGio on February 25, 2014, 08:31:47 PM
yea we have the same last name.  No relation though.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JonGio on February 25, 2014, 10:30:19 PM
Hi JonGio and welcome to the forum. Nice of you to drop by.

We've had some discussion about it in this topic as well as the "Wiring a PTC" topic.

For the OKR-T/10 use a 10A. Two 5A fuses in parallel to half the PTC resistance and double the Amp rating.
For the OKR-T/6 use Two 3A fuses in parallel.
Thanks a lot.  Is the thread called wiring a ptc
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on February 26, 2014, 06:26:20 AM
Thanks a lot.  Is the thread called wiring a ptc


Actually cuz it's called Wiring PTC Fuses (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,723.0.html)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 02, 2014, 02:28:20 AM
Question for you, breaktru - in the OP diagram, you have a PTC fuse wired on Vin (this is also the way I wired the Raptor) - if the batts are put in backwards, are they protected from meltdown?

For the Raptor, the batts are not protected if put in backwards. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on March 02, 2014, 07:28:03 AM
Question for you, breaktru - in the OP diagram, you have a PTC fuse wired on Vin (this is also the way I wired the Raptor) - if the batts are put in backwards, are they protected from meltdown?

For the Raptor, the batts are not protected if put in backwards. 

Hmmm. You know mamu I put the fuse in as standard operating procedure. I never considered reverse battery protection.
Perhaps a diode would help as shown in the attached image below.

Diode D1 will not do anything, and will not waste power when power is applied correctly. However, if the polarity is reversed diode D1 conducts, and will trip the fuse.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 02, 2014, 05:50:21 PM
That would actually limit reverse voltage to less than a volt for a Schottky rectifier, could be a benefit.  It will offload the rest of the circuit until the fuse trips.  Really good idea actually.  Kind of the same idea as using a diode for ESD protection.  You'll want a diode that can handle a few amps, a 5A diode can usually handle a 50A surge which should be adequate.  You'd want it to be good for a number of fault occurances.

Of course, if you're going to start adding components, a P-channel MOSFET in lieu of the diode would offer the best protection.  You get some loss with the transitor inline, but with prudent selection, it can be pretty negligible.


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 08, 2014, 07:52:50 AM
Well, I can confirm that with using the enable pin on the OKR-T10 the fuses (2x 5A in parallel) do not protect with reverse polarity.  The batts got hot hot hot and the insulation on the wires directly after the fuse melted and left another burn mark in my breadboard and this all happened within a few secs... 1001, 1002 - yeah that fast.  :(

I also tested wiring the fuses to the enable pin instead of Vin and got the same results as with the Raptor - there is reverse polarity protection for the batts, but not if you press the fire button.  If you press the fire button you get the same results as with the fuses wired to Vin.

I have no idea if using no pull-down resister and with an NC switch on the enable pin what's what as I did testing with a pull-down resister and an NO switch on the enable pin because I really want undervoltage protection for the batts. 

Full reverse polarity protection with batteries and circuit with using the same P-FET as with the Raptor.

This is the first time I've worked with the OKR-T10, so I wanted to experiment with the lowest ohm pull-down resister that would work in preventing auto-firing with and without using a zener diode on the enable pin.

Without the zener, you can go as high as 10K without causing auto-firing, but with the zener anything above 2K causes auto-firing.  1K prevents auto-firing with and without the zener, so that's the one I'm going to use with the OKR-T10.

And it makes sense for the 1K for the T10.  With the T3 a 100K resistor is needed, with the T6 a 10K resister is needed (decreased by a factor of 10 from the T3), and with the T10 a 1K is needed (decreased by a factor of 10 from the T6).

I got some red flashing LEDs recently and played with them when the FET was wired in and with the batts in backwards - kinda fun to see the red LED flashing when the batts are in backwards.  :laughing:  The LED doesn't light if the batts are in correctly.

And I put a 22uF 16v ceramic cap on the input (same part as for Raptor), but left off the output cap.  I've had such good results with longevity with all the mods I made with the T6 with caps, so figured a small input cap for buffering the converter's stress with repeated and frequent firing may help there.

Here's the wiring I did and will get it in a mod sometime when I have time...
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/okr-t10-wiring.png)

SEE: UPDATED SCHEMATIC (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg13560.html#msg13560)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on March 08, 2014, 08:02:53 AM
Nice going mamu. Great work girl. Thank you for posting
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 08, 2014, 05:31:11 PM
Interesting stuff, I guess reverse polarity on the enable pin with these buck converters limits current not allowing the fuses to trip.  There's no skating on a transistor for reverse polarity protection when using the enable pin with them.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 08, 2014, 06:30:53 PM
YW breaktru!

I'm wondering in what kind of situation will the fuse trip.  Maybe a disastrous short somewhere in the circuit or enable pin failure.  It's still curious that the enable pin limits current to the point that the batts aren't protected with reverse polarity.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 08, 2014, 06:54:16 PM
This is the kind of thing exactly why you need to test stuff.  Just assuming it should work could lead to disasterous consequences.  There's no obvious reason why this would be the case (enable pin causes fuses not to trip), but there is always a level of FM (fricking magic) going on with electronics you have to deal with.  Sometimes things behave in unexpected ways. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 08, 2014, 07:44:27 PM
I hear ya about FM.   :laughing:

It's good to sort these unexpected things out and figure out solutions.  After working with fuses and FETs I have a high regard for them and what they're doing to keep us safe.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on March 09, 2014, 07:24:09 AM
I've built one mod using Breaktru's first schematic at the start of this thread. I'm looking to build a second, but I want to incorporate some sort of undervoltage protection. I still want to use a 3A pushbutton wired into pin 2.

This has been mentioned briefly in this thread, but not answered to a level I can understand  :laughing:

How would I go about wiring a zener in if I am using a 3A pushbutton into pin 2?

Thanks again everyone.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: smami on March 15, 2014, 06:22:36 PM
Hello to every one.
Does anyone know where to get these okr-t/10 chips in reasonable prices in Europe (Finland)? Because every where i tried to buy these they had 35+€ just for shipping which seems a bit much for 1 small 9$ chip.
Thanks.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 15, 2014, 06:57:41 PM
You might try here;

http://fi.mouser.com/

Don't know if shipping will be cheap, but it should be a lot less than 35 Euros.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on March 15, 2014, 07:35:31 PM
How about this: http://fi.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/okr-t-10-w12-c/dc-dc-conv-non-iso-pol-1-o-p-50w/dp/1792312?ref=lookahead (http://fi.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/okr-t-10-w12-c/dc-dc-conv-non-iso-pol-1-o-p-50w/dp/1792312?ref=lookahead)

http://www.arroweurope.com/countries/finland.html (http://www.arroweurope.com/countries/finland.html)

Other parts: http://www.vekoy.com/ (http://www.vekoy.com/)

and: http://www.yeint.fi/ (http://www.yeint.fi/)

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: smami on March 15, 2014, 08:40:07 PM
Mouser is the cheapest one from what i have found, 20€ shippin and 2 chip minimum order.
(Farnell 50€ for 1 chip + shipping :D) thanks for the help guys.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 16, 2014, 04:29:25 AM
Twenty Euros is still awfully steep.  I'm not familiar with the mail options there, but here in the states I can ask Mouser to send things regular first class mail and they always do it when I ask them to.  I just put it in the "shipping instructions" text box.  It's actually a good service here with two or three day shipping, but it's limited to less than 12 oz (150g).  Super cheap though, like 2 USD.  Anyway, if there's a mail service option like that for you over there, you might try asking them to use it.  I'm sure a couple regulators are going to be plenty light enough.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on March 16, 2014, 08:50:04 AM
Hi all.

I've been trying to get my head round how to incorporate a zener diode into the circuit for undervoltage protection.

I've currently got a layout set up on my bread board, and I've drawn a diagram of it below.

(http://i.imgur.com/ZCjZQZw.jpg)

It is firing up fine... would someone be able to advice me whether the zener is wired in correctly and whether it will indeed work. I realised I have no idea if it will cut out without sitting here firing it till the batteries are drained :lol:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 16, 2014, 05:41:38 PM
Plus and minus polarity is rather ambiguous for diodes so I'm not sure if your diode is wired right.  Diode polarity is normally identified by anode and cathode rather than plus or minus.  There should be a bar printed on the cathode side of the diode.  For a Zener, the bar side (cathode) should be connected to the high side or positive side of the connection.  That would be the switch in your case.  The opposite is true when using a diode as a rectifier which inverts plus and minus.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on March 16, 2014, 05:53:29 PM
Thanks Craig, the cathode is indeed attached to my switch. Time to put it all together then :)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Madyicstik on March 17, 2014, 07:08:32 PM
If that is PCB with the tracers, it looks like it is not wired correctly. Like mamu said, only the resistor is in the circuit.
Look at the PCB board I show for the PTR08100. The wiring is the same. Just don't add the caps.

(http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=170.0;attach=495;image)

i want to use a prototype board on my okr build? will i follow this diagram , i do have caps on my build just wondering if it would be the same exact layout and cuts on the board?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on March 17, 2014, 07:26:04 PM
Yes exactly the same except for the caps. I don't use caps on the OKR but some do (different values).
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 17, 2014, 07:57:35 PM
That's what's so nice about these various buck converters like the OKR, TI, Raptor - the wiring and external components required is all similar because the pins on all of them have the same function.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 18, 2014, 01:51:34 AM
The ones with the pin headers are wired to be compatible with the linear regulators they're supposed to replace so they tend to have the same pin-outs.  You have to love stuff that's standard.  Though it can get you sometimes.  Power MOSFETs in SOIC and compatible packages are pretty much always pinned out the same and I made the assumption on some I changed out for better ones.  I almost sent the board design off to fab with the pin-out wrong.  Glad I caught that one, nothing like paying a chunk of change for some FR-4 drink coasters.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on March 18, 2014, 10:36:40 AM
The OKR has onboard overcurrent protection, but no reverse polarity protection.   So, yes - fuses are necessary for safety.

I use these 2x in parallel for a 10A hold current for the OKR-T10: AGRF500-2.

You can go to octopart.com and enter the part number and find who sells them and who has the best price.

Hello all love this website soo much to learn. Quick noob question.  If the batteries are run in series. How does one run the fuses in parrallel?



Ben.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on March 18, 2014, 01:36:45 PM
Hello all love this website soo much to learn. Quick noob question.  If the batteries are run in series. How does one run the fuses in parrallel?

Ben.

(http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=170.0;attach=2479;image)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on March 18, 2014, 03:30:52 PM
(http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=170.0;attach=2479;image)

Thank you sir!! :rockin smiley:

Makes my life easier.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jrweber02 on March 18, 2014, 08:46:50 PM
Whats the best method for cutting the line in yhe mini premade boards?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: davidlewallen on March 20, 2014, 02:48:57 AM
How could I go about adding in reverse polarity protection to this?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on March 20, 2014, 05:04:16 AM
How could I go about adding in reverse polarity protection to this?

Go to mamu's Reply #152 in this thread
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 20, 2014, 01:45:02 PM
I have tested both the smd P-FET that Craig recommends and the leaded P-FET sphearion is using.  There is no adverse effect on the input/output from the converter or voltage loss from either one - both do an excellent job of protecting the batts and circuitry for reverse polarity. 

Craig's is the better choice and has the lower RDS(on), but if you have trouble with soldering smd the leaded one will be a good substitute and is much easier to work with.

Here are the specs for each:
Si7157DP (smd)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 20V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 46.5A (Ta)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 1.6 mOhm @ 25A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 1.4V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 625nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 22000pF @ 10V
Power - Max - 6.25W


SUP75P03-07-E3 (leaded)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 30V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 75A (Tc)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 7 mOhm @ 30A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 3V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 240nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 9000pF @ 25V
Power - Max - 3.75W
Mounting Type - Through Hole
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 24, 2014, 12:31:43 AM
I'm going to have to do some more work with the zener and pull-down resister as the zener is not kicking in to shut off the converter.  I've tried the various zeners I have on hand and only the 6.8v zener is working for under voltage protection, but that's too high of a cutoff voltage.  I've tried the 5.6v, 6.0v, and 6.2v that I have and so far no go.

The 7.5K resister and zener work great for the Raptor for under-voltage protection, and also the 10K resister plus zener for the OKR-T6 work great, but either the resistor needs to be adjusted or I need to choose a different zener for the OKR-T10.  The problem is I can't go higher than 2K resister with the zener in line else the OKR auto-fires. :(

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Iamthebadass on March 24, 2014, 03:05:09 AM
Mamu, try 1k for the T10.

That's what I have been using and it seems to work with a 5.6v Zener.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 24, 2014, 03:17:35 AM
That's what I have wired - 1K resister with 5.6v or 6.0v zener (see post #152).

Do you have yours in a mod, badass?  Mine is breadboarded and the voltage is going uber low and not cutting off at what's expected.

Link to the zener you're using?

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Iamthebadass on March 24, 2014, 03:52:24 AM
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TZX5V6D-TRvirtualkey61370000virtualkey78-TZX5V6D
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 25, 2014, 04:10:44 PM
ok... got it solved.  Zener is working aok for low voltage cutoff. 

After shaking my head a bit I decided to buy some new breadboards and breadboarded the whole works on a new one. 

I'm going to toss out all my old breadboards.  After all this testing I've done with reverse polarity and diodes and FETs and fuses I've burnt some connections and have damaged the breadboards I have.   oh_my:  New start is nice.   :laughing:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Iamthebadass on March 25, 2014, 06:10:25 PM
Awesome, so the 1k and Zener worked for you finally?

That is why I just mock everything up with solder, it can be a pain, but I have had some shoddy experiences with breadboards...

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 26, 2014, 03:43:24 PM
Yes, those breadboards can give you trouble.  You do need to replace them at some point, I probably need to replace the ones I have actually.  The connections wear out pretty fast on them.

One thing you can do to make breadboards more useful it to make small protoboards housing sub-circuits that plug in to the breadboards, but for anything with high current they're really not good for that.  There's a wire wrap method of breadboarding that's been around a lot longer than the more common solderless breadboarding which can handle currents a lot higher; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: legionbornagain on March 27, 2014, 08:12:19 PM
so after hooking everything up just like the schematic only thing is the resister is a 200 ohm with .5 watts, i found it at radio shack so should i get the right resister from digikey? the way that i have it wired it is only outputing .53 volts not sure what would be causing this but im slamming my head into a brick wall can someone chime in here and help me?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on March 27, 2014, 09:59:08 PM
so after hooking everything up just like the schematic only thing is the resister is a 200 ohm with .5 watts, i found it at radio shack so should i get the right resister from digikey? the way that i have it wired it is only outputing .53 volts not sure what would be causing this but im slamming my head into a brick wall can someone chime in here and help me?

Yeah, a 220 ohm resister to bring the OKR back into spec.

Outputting .53 volts sounds like there's no pot or resister in line with pin 5.  Make sure you wired the resister and pot correctly to pin 5 and with the GND leg of the pot going to pin 3 and that there are no cold solder connections.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on March 28, 2014, 08:33:18 AM
Was wondering if someone could please tell me what the amp draw on the batteries would be with them fully charged, inputting 8.4 volts to the okr-t/10, and the okr-t/10 outputting it's max of 6 volts. I'm a real dunderhead trying to wrap my head around all of this. From the spec sheet and what i've seen here, it looks like the amp draw to the input would be 4.53 amps @ 12 volts while outputting volts. Can someone confirm that this is correct? Would like to connect a slide switch to disconnect the battery to eliminate any drain, will be using remote on-off pin. Just trying to find a switch that would be in spec when wired to the positive from batteries. Thanks!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on March 28, 2014, 04:10:14 PM
I've posted this on the forum before, but there's a simple way to find input current for a given output. 

Multiply your output current and voltage to get power.  Add 20% to that to cover losses then divide by input voltage to get input current. 

For example, a 1 Ohm atomizer with an applied voltage of 4V results in a current flow of 4 Amps.  Power is 16 Watts, 4A times 4V.  Add 20% for losses and that's 19.2 Watts.  For a worst case input voltage of 6V, you're looking at an input current of 3.2 Amps, 19.2W divided by 6V.

In reality, current demand is going to be a little lower since efficiency is usually around 90% and low voltage cutoff for the battery is somewhat above 6V, but it's not a bad idea to pad those numbers a bit.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on March 28, 2014, 10:06:08 PM
Much appreciated reply, thanks!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on March 31, 2014, 12:37:03 AM
any thoughts on the possibility of using a 500 ohm pot? if i calculated properly from the specs, it would lower the low voltage output to 2.23.

considering this as an option since there is a 500 ohm pot available that could be thread through a hole, secured with nut, and has a metal shaft. think it would be nice with a guitar knob attached.

alpha b500
http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-OHM-Linear-Taper-Rotary-Potentiometer-B500-Pot-/280672832335
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on March 31, 2014, 07:22:14 AM
any thoughts on the possibility of using a 500 ohm pot? if i calculated properly from the specs, it would lower the low voltage output to 2.23.

considering this as an option since there is a 500 ohm pot available that could be thread through a hole, secured with nut, and has a metal shaft. think it would be nice with a guitar knob attached.

alpha b500
http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-OHM-Linear-Taper-Rotary-Potentiometer-B500-Pot-/280672832335

Sure you can use it if you have the room to mount a 16mm base pot.
As far as the low end of the output voltage range goes, Only half of the pot wipe will be useful
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 02, 2014, 03:10:34 PM
In mamu's most recent diagram (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg12662.html#msg12662), can two tact switches (replacing the on-off-on) be used to check either battery or output voltage? A mini voltmeter should be very low current draw enough for the tacts to handle correct? Can anything be done for safety in the event they were both simultaneously pressed?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 02, 2014, 04:45:03 PM
Should be, but some tactiles have pretty low current limits.  You have to check the draw on the voltmeter and the limits on the particular switch you are using.   That voltmeter is probably going to draw around 50mA being the LED type.  LEDs have a relatively high current demand compared to circuits you typically use tactiles for.  Tactiles usually max out around 50mA, but they can be lower or higher depending on the part.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on April 03, 2014, 07:22:07 AM
I'm not sure how you would wire an inline safety for not pressing both tacts at the same time.

Just takes that one time of being curious or not paying attention and *poof* the OKR is fried.  I tested the 2 tact setup back when I was designing Denali - got curious if the OKR would survive - it didn't.  :(

Maybe you'll figure out some way to do it though.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on April 03, 2014, 03:16:23 PM
I've built up a new mod using the schematic I posted earlier

http://i.imgur.com/ZCjZQZw.jpg

(I've also got a voltmeter in it too)

I've run into a slight issue though, and was hoping one of you guys would be able to give me a bit of help.

The mod is cutting out when the batteries are only down to about 3.7-3.8V each. The display fades, and it stops firing properly, which I presume is the zener kicking in.

 Any ideas why the cut off is happening so early?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on April 03, 2014, 05:01:22 PM
I have a dumb question...so I've built a pass thru version only modifying breakthru's schem. By adding 12v n type plug to an okr-t/6 in hopes of running protanks as a pass thru (for juice bars) and I've fried two converters...well, two times now I have not recived signal to my atty out pins when the board is definately powered...I popped in a new 200 ohm pot and resistor, and new converter and got a great result on #2 chip until I plugged it in today and popped the cigarette adapter fuse followed by the same issue...I see the specs say 12v nominal so my assumption @ 1 ohm would be within the tolerences of my build...I did not add caps...but is that enough to be causing this???


Two chips down (I think) two on deck lol
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 03, 2014, 07:11:50 PM
Okay, let me get this straight. Chip #2 worked but the next day it blew a fuse. Sounds like you had the polarity correct or it wouldn't work the first day. Check your wiring and connections on the board output and on the 510. Also check the input and make sure there is no possible way the wiring or connections could short.
Close up photos w/ several views would be helpful.

What's the specs on the 12V source?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on April 03, 2014, 07:26:59 PM
Thanks for the reply and all the info you guys give..awesome!! :rockin smiley:

I'll have to double/triple check for the basics, I'm using a 10a bench power module (looks like a computer supply) and in the car a standard 12v cig adapter with a 5a fast blow on a 10a acessory terminal.
By theory I believe that would technically lower my overall amperage versus 7vdc...sound ok to you??

I'm gonna double check wiring, re-reading all the info I'm seeing different words stick out @ me as stuff I could have done wrong...

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on April 03, 2014, 08:48:04 PM
Ok, I have;
-checked for continuity between ground and all v+ connections
-desoldier resistor/pot and check outputs (0-200 ohm on pot 220 ohm on resistor)
-jump fire button and hopscotch pins, loosing 12v on pin #4

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 04, 2014, 04:50:04 PM
Automotive electrical systems can provide notoriously spikey power supplies.  When you do things like turning on the headlights and starting the engine you get very large spikes in the electrical system.  Normally you have to use "automotive rated" parts for automotive applications.  That just means they are tolerant to 35V.

Electrical spikes in automotive electrical systems rarely get above 35V, but big load dumps can cause spikes as high as 100V.  A big load dump can happen when you do something like jump start another car.  This can sometimes even damage parts that do have automotive ratings.  So, think twice next time someone asks you to give them a jump start.  Always do it with the ignition off.  Gunning your engine while jump starting another car could fry your car's electrical system.

In any case, electrical systems in cars are not all created equal.  If you car has a particularly noisy electrical system, it could possibly fry your OKR regulators.  They are not automotive rated.  What you need to do is add a TVS circuit (transient voltage suppressor)  to your cig lighter adapter.  It's just a simple circuit with a big cap, a TVS diode and a rectifier.  Those are widely available and inexpensive parts.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on April 04, 2014, 05:01:48 PM
Happy Friday!!!!! Digi tech sent me a giant box so im gonna be building all weekend!!!!

That's really good to know...I'm getting into these technologies after working with electromechanical control work..it's cool to learn more!

I just re-mapped my circuit and have a definite failure on one okr chip, I'm going to assume #2 died in battle as well...

What do you guys think about this one I built? (Before I box it up this time) haha
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 04, 2014, 05:23:43 PM
I actually kind of spaced on that, I saw cig lighter adapter and passthru and thought you were using a passthru in a car, so nevermind on that.  Probably good info anyway.  Lots of people use passhtrus running off the cig lighter adapter in a car.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on April 04, 2014, 05:36:44 PM
Yeah I was lol...I am just testing it all over 12v power...that's great to know because seeing the power of the chip in action, I'm thinking about a car set up with it now. That's gonna be the chip layout there but now I want to add rev polarity circuit and need to dig into reading about some form of conditioner.

I forgot to mention all my equipment on my work bench runs through a power conditioner, so around dirty power it's definately a good explanation for these failures.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on April 04, 2014, 06:12:08 PM
http://www.comchiptech.com/cms/UserFiles/CPDQ5V0-HF%20RevA825126.pdf

Wouldn't this work for both reverse polarity/spikes and zener functions?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on April 05, 2014, 11:18:26 AM
Right. I've got my mod laid out on the breadboard, using the 5.6 zener, and it is still cutting out when the batteries are at around 3.7-3.8V each...

Any ideas why the cut off is happening so early?

These are the zeners I've been using:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1861448

This is really frustrating me, as I really want to add under voltage shut off, but having it so early is making the battery life dreadful...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on April 05, 2014, 12:16:05 PM
Right. I've got my mod laid out on the breadboard, using the 5.6 zener, and it is still cutting out when the batteries are at around 3.7-3.8V each...

Any ideas why the cut off is happening so early?

These are the zeners I've been using:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1861448

This is really frustrating me, as I really want to add under voltage shut off, but having it so early is making the battery life dreadful...

Is 3.7v - 3.8v the loaded or unloaded cutoff voltage? 

If it's the unloaded cutoff voltage, what is the loaded cutoff voltage?  If it's around 6v then the 5.6v zener is doing its job and not the cause of the issue.

And if that's the case the batts are really sagging under load and being stressed.

Check the batts (some have high internal resistance - the Sony 30A batts have the lowest internal resistance and cut off at 3.1v - 3.2v unloaded), check the batt holder, check the batt contacts, check that you used 20ga wiring input/output - there is added resistance coming from one or more of those sources that is causing the high unloaded cutoff voltage.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on April 05, 2014, 12:35:04 PM
Is 3.7v - 3.8v the loaded or unloaded cutoff voltage? 

If it's the unloaded cutoff voltage, what is the loaded cutoff voltage?  If it's around 6v then the 5.6v zener is doing its job and not the cause of the issue.

And if that's the case the batts are really sagging under load and being stressed.

Check the batts (some have high internal resistance - the Sony 30A batts have the lowest internal resistance and cut off at 3.1v - 3.2v unloaded), check the batt holder, check the batt contacts, check that you used 20ga wiring input/output - there is added resistance coming from one or more of those sources that is causing the high unloaded cutoff voltage.

It is the loaded cut off that is occurring at 3.7-3.8V.

I'm only experiencing a drop of about 0.05V between unloaded and loaded...

I've got it set up on my bread board with 20ga wire throughout, have tried a couple of different battery holders with the same results.

The batteries I've been testing with are efest 800mah IMR 18350s...

Do the zeners I linked to look okay? It's the first time I've ever used them, and was unsure of which to purchase.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on April 05, 2014, 01:00:55 PM
If the loaded voltage is 3.7v - what is the unloaded voltage?  It must be nearly charged to cut off under load that high.

I don't believe the zener is the issue.  The specs of the one you linked to looks fine.   Take the zener out of line and see if you get the same results with cutoff voltage.  If you do get the same results, then you'll need to figure out where the added resistance is coming from.

...The batteries I've been testing with are efest 800mah IMR 18350s...

I'll wager there's your problem - those batts are only 6.4A capable plus Efest batts have high internal resistance and inherently cut out at higher voltages.

If you have any Sony or LG 30A 18650 batts, try those and see if you get better results.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on April 05, 2014, 01:10:54 PM
Sorry, I was getting confused with loaded/unloaded I think...

When it cuts off, the batteries read 3.7V each unloaded when using my multimeter. The voltmeter I've included in my breadboard set up fades, and the atties stops firing. When I remove the atty, the voltmeter comes back on, and reads the correct voltage.

I've got another box I made using the OKR without a zener in it, and the efests will drain to about 3.0V before it starts strugging

The mod I want to build this into is a twin 18350, so I'll try it with a couple of AW IMRs, and see if I get better results I think...

I'll also test with some 10A 18650 panasonics I have too to be sure, but really I want to be using 18350s.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wreck on April 06, 2014, 02:07:24 PM
Well, it looks like the batteries were my issue...

I swapped for a set of AWs, and the batteries are currently at about 3.4V and are still going strong :)

Time to bin those old efests I think.

Thanks for the advice Mamu  :beer-toast:

I'm now wondering whether the issues I was having with my PTN04050 box were down to the efests  :Thinking: shame the mod is now in pieces on my desk due to the rage it made me get into!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on April 06, 2014, 02:12:23 PM
I rebuilt my passthru and it's working great...still don't know why ver 1 was killing boards, except I haven't attempted to use cars as a voltage source..

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on April 07, 2014, 09:44:23 AM
Hello to all,

I've been reading and seeing a lot of you guys on the forums, FB and it is nice to see everyone is as helpful as ever. I have some questions. 

I wired up and soldered a Okr 10 last week. Installed it didnt fire and the battery on the left got hot.  Ok Rome wasnt built in a day... I have a short somewhere. While trying to investigate this week ( I have a 2 year old so play time is once a week) My pot took a dump and fell apart.  :wallbash:. Sooo I started fresh and laid out up a new complete layout worked and I soldered it up and Bam ITS ALIVE!!!!!   But my batt still gets hot. Its the one on the left doesnt matter which. Plus I think I smell a lil burning from the wire that goes from the batt on the left + to the batt on the rights -. So I'm going to rewire that and see if that fixes the heat up battery. I wanted to post this just to see what input you all have. Oh and side not I didnt pay attention to see if the battery heated up while on the bread board  =\

I did not realize how much room is needed lol everything looks small and you think oh yeah that will fit. lol.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 07, 2014, 10:13:10 AM
Dropsomegears:
It could be the one battery is bad.
Also, I see they are button tops. Make sure the contacts on your batt holder is providing enough pressure on the batt. It can be a source of high resistance which would cause heat and voltage drop.
Check for a cold solder battery wire connection which would also cause a high resistance (heat) path. You want to heat the wire and contact point with the soldering iron before applying solder. You DON'T want to melt the solder on to the wire/contact.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on April 07, 2014, 11:08:29 AM
Dropsomegears:
It could be the one battery is bad.
Also, I see they are button tops. Make sure the contacts on your batt holder is providing enough pressure on the batt. It can be a source of high resistance which would cause heat and voltage drop.
Check for a cold solder battery wire connection which would also cause a high resistance (heat) path. You want to heat the wire and contact point with the soldering iron before applying solder. You DON'T want to melt the solder on to the wire/contact.

Thanks will do.

Also is there an average working temp for the batts? I used my temp gun and they were at room temp 70 deg then both went to 75 and stayed there for a few min. But  not firing an atty (still attached) I waited to see and then the one started to rise to around 95 then I unplugged it.  I've babied these batts. I bought them locally for my lavatube 2.5 and when the volts dropped down to 3.8 - 3.7 I swapped it out and put a fresh one in and on the charger it went.

I was told that the batteries we use have similar chemical makeup (or same) to Lipos so I try and treat batteries like my R/C batts. Store for long periods of time at 3.8 dont go near cut off 3.3 and slowly charge when possible. (Slow is 1 amp for big R/C batteries).

I could have sworn I saw someone here saying do not use VTC4's or alike on these and just use a normal non special battery (another reason why I wanted to make this mod). Any suggestions on batteries?

Sorry for the repeats on noob questions. (at work and research time is limited).


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 07, 2014, 11:54:15 AM
Stacking batteries that have no protection can be dangerous. It's good that you are using PTC fuses. Also these batteries are LiMN which are a safer chemistry than Li-Ion.

Are you saying that the temp climbs when you put them in the battery holder w/ no load? Are you pressing the fire button when they heat up or is it happening just sitting idle?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on April 07, 2014, 02:02:44 PM
Stacking batteries that have no protection can be dangerous. It's good that you are using PTC fuses. Also these batteries are LiMN which are a safer chemistry than Li-Ion.

Are you saying that the temp climbs when you put them in the battery holder w/ no load? Are you pressing the fire button when they heat up or is it happening just sitting idle?

Slight climb while using. But rises when not firing.

To me it solidifies your other tip to check for a cold joint in the battholder. I tried it with either batt in the left slot and which ever batt was in the left slot got warmer. I'm just glad I remebered to use my IR Temp gun to monitor.  :D

I'll double check the tray make sure there are no metal shaving or any foreign object creating a short. ( I am multi tasking with projects)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 07, 2014, 02:59:41 PM
Slight climb while using. But rises when not firing.

Sounds like you have a partial short or leakage. Check your wiring carefully
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 09, 2014, 05:24:35 PM
Thank you for this thread. Finished my build over the weekend. Wiring isn't pretty, just happy it works.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 09, 2014, 06:21:00 PM
Thank you for this thread. Finished my build over the weekend. Wiring isn't pretty, just happy it works.

Well done David  :rockin smiley: Congratulations  :applaude:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on April 12, 2014, 01:54:16 AM
I've been doing some more testing with the OKR-T10.

The 1K ohm pull-down resister is causing a major concern with the current drain.  The 5.6v zener is kicking in to cut off the OKR from firing at 6v under load, but the batts if left in the mod after the cutoff continue to drain and with the 1K ohm resister drain at a faster rate.  The series batts drained down to 5v.  oh_my:

I've re-breadboarded the setup and replaced the 1K ohm resister with a 4.7K ohm resister and so far good to go.  With my previous setup I couldn't do higher than 2K without getting auto-firing with the zener inline.  Now I'm thinking it was the funky breadboard I was using because now with the new breadboard a higher resistance is doing fine.

I've updated the wiring guide to reflect this.

(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/okr-t10-wiring.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: thejewk on April 12, 2014, 05:00:34 AM
Thanks to this thread and a package from digikey yesterday, I knocked up an okr t10 mod yesterday in a chuffing great plastic box and on first impressions it's performing brilliantly. Don't have under voltage protection or a voltmeter in yet, but this is just a test build while waiting for more parts and until I find a better case. I am thinking of making a wooden box from layers of mahogany sheet, but I have never done anything like that before so it may take some time.

For battery life, does the resistance of your coil have any effect? I have a build using 2x18650s using a kis3r33s which I generally run at 4.4 volts and the battery life is brilliant. On this mod I have a 0.5 ohm dual coil with the same voltage of 4.4 which is obviously giving significantly greater power, but will it give me less run time as a result?

Keep up the good work folks.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 12, 2014, 11:46:08 PM
I know i'm a little late to the party, but I had a few questions regarding the schematic that i'm following.
1. What is the purpose of the on/off (sw2) switch in this schematic?

2. I saw Mamu's last reply on using a 4.7 ohm resistor instead of a 1 ohm resistor. Will i be fine using a 2ohm resistor?

3. Based on Mamu's schematic, where would the vout pin on the on/off/on switch go? (sorry if its a noobish question).

4. Lastly, has anyone used a touch button in an okr build? If so, how would I be able to work it into this build.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 13, 2014, 01:11:32 AM

1. What is the purpose of the on/off (sw2) switch in this schematic?

3. Based on Mamu's schematic, where would the vout pin on the on/off/on switch go? (sorry if its a noobish question).

- disconnect fire button

- wire to either the vout pin on okr or 510 positive pin
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 13, 2014, 01:57:27 AM
Ah, got it. Thank you!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: michamer on April 13, 2014, 08:38:52 AM
I know i'm a little late to the party, but I had a few questions regarding the schematic that i'm following.

What is the purpose of the on/off (sw2) switch in this schematic?


I'm not an expert but I don't see why an on/off for pin 1 would help.
From my understanding, the on/off would be practical on the battery to pin 2.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 13, 2014, 06:39:13 PM
I'm not an expert but I don't see why an on/off for pin 1 would help.
From my understanding, the on/off would be practical on the battery to pin 2.

on-off switch on pin 1 would disconnect button to prevent pocket firing.

on-off switch on pin 2 would disconnect battery to prevent current drain.

current drain mentioned here:

http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg10176.html#msg10176
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 13, 2014, 09:14:14 PM
"on-off switch on pin 1 would disconnect button to prevent pocket firing.
on-off switch on pin 2 would disconnect battery to prevent current drain.
current drain mentioned here:
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg10176.html#msg10176"

David4500- If I put the on/off on pin 2, between the okr and the mosfet, wouldn't this be killing two birds with one stone. The chip wont have any power, making the button inoperable?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 13, 2014, 09:35:28 PM
yeah both switches wouldn't be needed. just pick the one you'd feel would suit your needs best.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 14, 2014, 10:32:12 PM
Awesome. I think i'll still go with the first. I'll just make sure that I take my batteries out if it's going to be sitting for a long time. I have a few other question though if anyone is willing to help me out. I started soldering the chip and was wondering if this looks ok? I don't have a breadboard on hand so I cant really wire everything unless i'm putting it in the box itself, or at least it would be a major pain to do so. Is this the way that most of your chips look after soldering? Any tips? The contacts aren't touching and the heat shrink is just for added protection.

The chip did seem to get quite hot when soldering, although I did start and stop making sure to not let it get too hot. Is it possible for the chip to become damaged from too much heat, from soldering?

My last question is if any of you have used a strip of metal as a ground. I used keystone battery contacts instead of a battery holder, making it somewhat difficult to solder every ground to it. And the box is made out of wood so I cant really make that the ground either. Any tips? Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 14, 2014, 11:49:56 PM
For battery life, does the resistance of your coil have any effect? I have a build using 2x18650s using a kis3r33s which I generally run at 4.4 volts and the battery life is brilliant. On this mod I have a 0.5 ohm dual coil with the same voltage of 4.4 which is obviously giving significantly greater power, but will it give me less run time as a result?

Yes, lower resistance consumes more power which drains the battery faster. 

It's possible to calculate the difference in run time pretty closely based on atomizer power.  Here's how;

Calculate atomizer power with voltage squared over resistance. 

Divide atomizer power by battery voltage to get battery current.  Use a nominal 7.4V for series cells using a step down converter or 3.7V for single or parallel cells using a boost converter.

Divide the cell's mAh by battery drain to get run time in hours.  For multiple cells, sum the mAh of the cells.

Divide run time (in seconds) by a nominal hit length of 3 seconds to calculate the number of hits on a charge.

It's not exact since there's losses neglected, hit length varies, and battery voltage is not constant, but it will give you a good idea when comparing one atomizer to another.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 15, 2014, 12:16:03 AM
I started soldering the chip and was wondering if this looks ok?

It's "ok", but you could do a little better.  What you could try is binding your group of elements prior to soldering with a wire wrap using a fine strand from some speaker wire.  That will hold things together when applying heat and things won't move when the joint cools.  It will also allow you to heat the connection evenly and completely.  For any solder connection you want to avoid any movement in the elements while the solder is transitioning from liquid to solid.  That pretty much trashes the connection.

Quote
The chip did seem to get quite hot when soldering, although I did start and stop making sure to not let it get too hot. Is it possible for the chip to become damaged from too much heat, from soldering?

It's actually better not to heat the connection any more often then you have to.  In other words, you'll do more damage removing heat and re-applying it then just keeping it hot for the duration of the job.

As far as overheating, it depends on what soldering tool you are using.  If you are using a proper station set to the correct temperature, it's actually quite unlikely you would overheat the board and damage it.  If using a cheap pencil iron, it's likely you would overheat the board and damage it.

Quote
My last question is if any of you have used a strip of metal as a ground. I used keystone battery contacts instead of a battery holder, making it somewhat difficult to solder every ground to it. And the box is made out of wood so I cant really make that the ground either. Any tips?

You can buy bus bars designed for this purpose.  It's something done commonly.  A bus bar should be solid copper plated with a tarnish resistant material like nickel or tin-nickel.  Don't use steel, it's not a very good conductor and is not resistant to corrosion at all.  Stainless is also a poor material.  It's not a very good conducting metal and has poor contact performance due to the chromium oxide surface layer it forms (that's what makes it stainless).
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 15, 2014, 12:39:23 AM
Thank you Craig. I'll definitely try the wire wrap that you suggested. I solder pretty much all day (I work as a camera repair tech), and we have Weller stations which get the job done with ease (at least when working on camera pcb's). However, I cant really spend the big bucks on a station like that at the moment. But, you're right, i'm using a radioshack cheap-o wand at the moment. It's been difficult to work with. With that being said, I might just bring the supplies into work and use our station.
Is their a certain temp I should be working at when soldering the okr? All i know is that the set temp at work for the stuff we're doing, is 750. As for wrapping the cap and resistor legs to the okr pins (that is what you're talking about when you say binding the elements correct?), should i just leave the speaker wire in the joint..? I don't see how i could get it out afterwards, at least without the joint coming apart. Thanks again.

Edit: I will look into the bus, however i have this lying around: http://i.imgur.com/uHDG8fc.jpg . I believe it is brass, however I dont know how i'd tell for sure.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 15, 2014, 01:02:11 AM
600F is the ideal temperature for soldering with 60/40 or 63/37 tin-lead solder.  A 25W pencil can be as high as 900F when soldering small components.  It can get below 500F when soldering large components.  Since the temperature is not regulated and the tips are usually pretty crappy it's almost impossible to solder electronics well with one.  They're really only good for stained glass and leather work.

If you do much electronics soldering at home, a soldering station will be well worth the expense.  You don't have to spend a lot.  If money is a real problem, you can get an inexpensive Chinese made station for around $50 that will work well.  There's a couple brands people have recommended on the forum here, but I'm sorry I don't recall the names.  You can probably do a forum search and find the threads that mention them.

As far as the wire wrap, yes, just bind the joint tightly with the filament wire then twist twist tie the filament ends.  Leave it in there when you solder the joint.  Afterwards, use some flush cutters to remove the tail left behind.  It will make soldering components and wires to those headers hugely easier.


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: thejewk on April 15, 2014, 04:58:09 AM
Thanks for the battery use formula Craig, very useful.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jasen on April 15, 2014, 08:30:06 AM
Fullthrown,
I'm not solder master but I picked up my soldering station from radio shack a few years ago for about $25, it's 25W and 40W. Worked pretty good for some LED project's I was building.

That bus looks like brass to me, I don't know of any other metals that are a similar color to brass.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 15, 2014, 10:38:47 AM
Brass is a commonly used bus bar material, the main advantage is the metal is much more durable than copper and can carry threads, however brass still requires a corrosion resistant plating and has about half the conductivity of copper.  The performance is not as good electrically, but much better structurally.  Brass is a good material for tube mods since it has much better electrical performance than stainless steel (about 20 times better) and is still pretty strong, though stainless is a lot tougher.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 15, 2014, 11:14:02 PM
Thanks for all the input Craig. I wired everything up and nothing happend  :wallbash: . Im thinking its my poor soldering job. I used a small copper bar as a bus, but it could really be anything that is making it not work. I'll try again this weekend. Is using perf board for soldering the small components onto the okr a common thing? Im thinking it will save a lot of time and hassle.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 16, 2014, 03:06:12 PM
Sorry for dragging this on, but im posting here because it wouldn't let me start a new topic. I found out that it didn't turn on because one of the batteries wasn't making contact with the positive contact. I resoldered the wires to the positive contact and turned it on. I could see smoke at first so I immediately took the batteries out. The contacts were VERY hot. The only other thing that was hot was the mosfet, and it was also VERY hot. Everything seems to be wire correctly. The only thing that looks like it could cause a problem is the soldering on the battery contacts and the soldering on the makeshift (copper) ground bar. Can someone take a look at these pictures and tell me if anything stands out, or where i should even start to check what went wrong: http://imgur.com/a/deGpc
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 16, 2014, 05:04:21 PM
Sorry to hear that, but you definitely fried something.  When you see smoke it's too late.  Best to thing is to post a wiring diagram, pretty hard to tell where you went wrong from photos.  That's a task even when you have a circuit in-hand.  People do post photos of their circuits a lot asking others to check them, but I never look at those.  Some more generous people do.  Checking the wiring diagram is correct is about the most you can expect, hooking it up per the diagram is up to you.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 17, 2014, 02:30:05 PM
Sorry for dragging this on, but im posting here because it wouldn't let me start a new topic. I found out that it didn't turn on because one of the batteries wasn't making contact with the positive contact. I resoldered the wires to the positive contact and turned it on. I could see smoke at first so I immediately took the batteries out. The contacts were VERY hot. The only other thing that was hot was the mosfet, and it was also VERY hot. Everything seems to be wire correctly. The only thing that looks like it could cause a problem is the soldering on the battery contacts and the soldering on the makeshift (copper) ground bar. Can someone take a look at these pictures and tell me if anything stands out, or where i should even start to check what went wrong: http://imgur.com/a/deGpc

See the PM I sent..........
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 27, 2014, 07:15:27 PM
anyone have a recommended pull down resistor value for an Okr T6? is it 10Kohm?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: runawaytrainn on April 27, 2014, 08:59:13 PM
first off would like to say thanks to everyone posting in this thread very helpful, I'm a noob 1st time modder who failed today. I tried to build using the okrt10 as soon as I popped the 1st battery in something sparked by the pot and I never got anything out of it after that  raged:, I think the positive wire from the pot was touching the metal enclosure I'm using. I humbly ask someone to tell me if  that would that fry the chip and if I'm using the rite parts.   

okr t10
220 ohm 1/8 watt carbon film resistor
3 amp momentary push button switch
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3352T-1-201LF/3352T-201LF-ND/1088344

followed this schematic    [img=http://s28.postimg.org/53i3evesp/mod_diagram.jpg] (http://postimg.org/image/53i3evesp/)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 28, 2014, 06:55:04 AM
first off would like to say thanks to everyone posting in this thread very helpful, I'm a noob 1st time modder who failed today. I tried to build using the okrt10 as soon as I popped the 1st battery in something sparked by the pot and I never got anything out of it after that  raged:, I think the positive wire from the pot was touching the metal enclosure I'm using. I humbly ask someone to tell me if  that would that fry the chip and if I'm using the rite parts.   

The trimmer portion of the circuit is negative. Shorting to the case would not cause a short.
Did you accidentally install the battery backwards?
What type of capacitors did you use? Did you mistakenly use electrolytic and wire them backwards?
On your schematic, between Pin 1 and 3 you show something "X" out. Meaning you did not cross wire them? Am I correct?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 28, 2014, 09:03:52 AM
anyone have a recommended pull down resistor value for an Okr T6? is it 10Kohm?

I don't use the Remote Pin but I believe it's a 10K ohm
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: runawaytrainn on April 28, 2014, 11:47:32 AM
Hi breaktru , the caps that I used I made sure to connect the longer lead to pins 2 and 4, the x on the schematic is a resistor that was eliminated. As far as the battery I'm sure I put it in correctly the sled I used was prewired. I connected pin 2 to switch pin 3 to  trimmer sled neg and atty neg, pin 4 to atty connector , pin 5 to trimmer with inline resistor , sled positive to other switch lead. I'm waiting on another trimmer and chip I ordered because I broke the lead off the trimmer I had and I didn't know if I fried the chip. Thanks for your help breaktru you don't know how much I appreciate it...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on April 28, 2014, 12:01:54 PM
The battery sled was pre-wired in series?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: runawaytrainn on April 28, 2014, 12:27:54 PM
Hi mamu, this is the one I used

http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=191148025778
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: runawaytrainn on April 28, 2014, 01:01:46 PM
I really appreciate  your responses to this I'm sooo bummed out about this..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on April 28, 2014, 01:20:44 PM
Shrug it off and chalk it up to learning experience, runaway.  I've fried a few boards in my time.  :yes"

The sled is in series so you're good to go there.  But the contacts in that sled may cause issues as they have high contact resistance.  Consider using a Keystone 18650 batt sled instead - they're rated for both high amps and low contact resistance.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: runawaytrainn on April 28, 2014, 01:44:38 PM
Should I get this one?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BK-18650-PC4/BK-18650-PC4-ND/2330513
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on April 28, 2014, 02:03:49 PM
Yes, the MPD batt sled would be doable more so than the ebay one.  Keystone are preferred, but seems they are oos.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on April 28, 2014, 02:12:07 PM
Shrug it off and chalk it up to learning experience, runaway.  I've fried a few boards in my time.

For sure, there's no way to avoid this kind of thing one hundred percent of the time, I've done the same.  Just have to be more careful next time.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: runawaytrainn on April 28, 2014, 06:42:58 PM
omg I think I found the problem. I used a 510 to 510 adaptor for my connector, well I think the pos was touching the neg because I can see it moved enough to do so. if that's what happened will that fry the chip? I ask because I noticed the in line resistor smoked rite off. if the chip is gone ill have to wait a month for a new one as digikey is out rite now ... also is there a way to test the chip?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 28, 2014, 09:46:09 PM
you can find some okrs in stock here

http://octopart.com/okr-t%2F10-w12-c-murata-12666778
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: runawaytrainn on April 28, 2014, 11:17:54 PM
hi david, thx I just ordered 2 of them :)   does anyone know if I can use this schematic with out using caps??

http://postimg.org/image/53i3evesp/
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 29, 2014, 08:38:10 PM
I have a quick question for anyone willing to answer. Based on Mamu's okr circuit: Does a high amp rated momentary switch need to be used? I was following a different schematic but it seemed that the switch was completely separate from pin #2. Breaktru pointed out that I wasn't getting the full use of the mosfet following the diagram that I was using. I'm now planning my build around Mamu's diagram but would still like to use the momentary switches that I have at hand (that are not high amp rating).
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on April 29, 2014, 10:12:24 PM
the spec sheet says the current draw for the remote pin is 1 mA
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: fullthrown on April 29, 2014, 10:16:19 PM
Hm, ok. I think I was just getting confused because both the remote pin and vin were connected to switch, whereas the diagram that I was following before was separate:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: SilenTDoGz on April 30, 2014, 04:43:40 AM
Hi everyone , and thanks for adding me!....i am new to this, and trying to learn as much as i can from reading everything i can here , so forgive any stupid questions i might ask .

i suppose , like everyone else.....i have spent more than enough on new items, in search of the perfect Vape for me........and never quite achieving nirvana.....but i does teach you what it is thats lacking , one of those things being Power supply and longevity of vape you get before having to swap out batteries.....not always convenient ! at the moment , i probably go through 6 x 18650's a day !....PITA!

SO my first question would be........ could you swap out the OKR-T/10.....for the (example) OKL2-T/20-W12N2-C  chip..?....would same components and schematic apply...?.....and if you could ....would you even want to??....maybe the power delivered would be over-kill...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on April 30, 2014, 06:06:38 AM
I have a quick question for anyone willing to answer. Based on Mamu's okr circuit: Does a high amp rated momentary switch need to be used? I was following a different schematic but it seemed that the switch was completely separate from pin #2. Breaktru pointed out that I wasn't getting the full use of the mosfet following the diagram that I was using. I'm now planning my build around Mamu's diagram but would still like to use the momentary switches that I have at hand (that are not high amp rating).

In mamu's diagram the fire switch is NOT breaking heavy current. If you look closely Pin 2 is connected to the leg of the switch that is always live ( + power) and the switched leg goes to the low current remote pin which turns the OKR on/off.
The way the mosfet is wired it is used for reverse polarity protection and not used for firing on/off. See: Reverse Polarity Protection (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,538.msg10120.html#msg10120)
And....... as I mentioned to you previously, you are not protected fully from Reverse Polarity protection with the diagram that you posted having the remote (+) wire connected directly to the battery. Move it to the "S" pin of the mosfet
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Aromaz on April 30, 2014, 11:16:30 AM
Hi everyone , and thanks for adding me!....i am new to this, and trying to learn as much as i can from reading everything i can here , so forgive any stupid questions i might ask .

i suppose , like everyone else.....i have spent more than enough on new items, in search of the perfect Vape for me........and never quite achieving nirvana.....but i does teach you what it is thats lacking , one of those things being Power supply and longevity of vape you get before having to swap out batteries.....not always convenient ! at the moment , i probably go through 6 x 18650's a day !....PITA!

SO my first question would be........ could you swap out the OKR-T/10.....for the (example) OKL2-T/20-W12N2-C  chip..?....would same components and schematic apply...?.....and if you could ....would you even want to??....maybe the power delivered would be over-kill...

Welcome Dogz.
Wow, 6 batteries. You must be a heavy sub ohm vaper or your batteries are past their prime.

The OKL2 has different pins connections than the OKR. Do you really need 20 amps? Different value pot and fixed resistor.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 01, 2014, 02:44:41 AM
Dogz

I do not know about the OKR up top hitting @ or above 50watts or the OKl etc but I do know the Ti 08100 chip will give you an honest 70 watt vape if thats what you seek..  Its even listed on their data sheet as handling a bit more power underrated @10amps, listed up to 16amps to overcurrent.  So you can literally vape ~100 watts with a Ti 08100 and it's efficiency is not that bad even at 50 watts, you would definitely have a longer run time as opposed to vaping mechanical.  6 batts you would probably only need 4 all day, vaping .35-4ohms..  If the OKR is rated like a Ti chip which many say are twins, yeah it will keep you from swapping batts all day and able to dial down or up the power all day long..

These boards blow away mechanicals and they vape identical with the smooth flow.  Mechanicals are just easy coolness but @3.6 your changing batts @3.6 these chips are in for a another 3-5 hours down to 3.2-3v,  of course theres a longer charge time but run time is awesome..  The trade off is negligible they  jump up to 3.6 on the charger,  a few minutes longer than normal mech charging..

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: rhay80 on May 01, 2014, 01:41:34 PM
Hello guys, I am using the t6 chip, I have set it up on the bread board... All connection are OK, but it will only work when the pot is turned up to Max, out put is showing 5.84v have changed the pot, could it be the 220ohm resistor that is the issue (this is soldered to the 5th leg of the chip)

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 01, 2014, 01:55:28 PM
rhay,
What is the value of the pot? Make sure it's 200 OHM and not 200K ohm.
Max setting is with the pot ZERO'd out, leaving only the fixed resistor in the circuit. I suspect the pot. As you turn down the pot towards min, you are putting more resistance of the pot in the trimmer circuit.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: rhay80 on May 01, 2014, 02:09:02 PM
I will check thanks....
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: rhay80 on May 01, 2014, 02:12:14 PM
:) that would explain my problem. Thanks they are 100k pot's. Facepalm lol
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 05, 2014, 03:08:20 AM
connecting a 200 ohm resistor in parallel to your 100 k ohm pot will bring the pot value to 200 ohm

http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm


not recommended according to the following two posts
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 05, 2014, 05:04:13 AM
Break has a post about a parallel resistor on the pot he says it jumps, it becomes very non linear..
But it will work as long as you don't mind the jumping.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 05, 2014, 06:53:13 AM
That's correct Visus. I mentioned this before in 3 different topic posts.
Do not use a parallel resistor.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 05, 2014, 03:12:23 PM
A pot used in its traditional configuration is linear (as a pot and not a variable resistor).  A voltage divider using a fixed and variable resistor in series is non-linear.  A voltage divider with a a fixed and variable resistor in parallel is extremely non-linear.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 05, 2014, 04:09:39 PM
i used a 470 ohm pot, had a low voltage of 2.2. it was lower than my 2-wire yellow led voltmeter would read (2.4v needed). i put a 1k ohm resistor in parallel to the pot, making it about 320 ohm. my low voltage is now 2.7 and my voltmeter functions. the first half of the pot wipe increases voltage by only 0.6 (2.7-3.3), a quarter turn from there it increases 0.8 (3.3-4.1), final quarter 1.9 (4.1-6.0)

i'm just a happy camper that the voltmeter works the full range now
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Claviger on May 13, 2014, 05:02:48 PM
Hi all, great post and forum here. I have read most of the thread and just wanted someone to please do a sanity check on this list. Plan on using solid 20 ga wire. Switch will go to pin 2 and the zenner diode is for low battery cut off. Are these the right parts? (Yes I know I have an OKR 6 and 10 in the basket :P)

So missing is the 510, batteries, wire and that should be it. Thanks in advance.

(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z226/tcclaviger/Box_Mod_zps51c210c9.jpg)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 13, 2014, 07:11:57 PM
I don't see a pull-down resistor for the T6 (10K ohm) or T10 (1k ohm - 4.7K ohm).  The T10 is not in stock.

You don't need 5W parts -  also makes for a large part and more expense - you can use 1/8W or 1/4W for the resistors and 500mW for the zener.

Also, if you want reverse polarity protection, you'll need a P-FET.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 13, 2014, 08:29:48 PM
Yes 5W resistors and diodes are big.  You don't want to use parts with that high of a power rating unless you have to, and it's not common that you have to. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Claviger on May 13, 2014, 08:52:10 PM
Awesome. Thanks for the prompt response!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mrbump82 on May 16, 2014, 03:11:31 AM
new guy here has anyone here used one of these battery sleds
http://www.batteryspace.com/Battery-holder-Li-Ion-18650-Battery-Holder-1S2P-With-2.6-long-20AWG.aspx
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mick8844 on May 16, 2014, 04:03:53 AM
I went and looked at this battery sled, and would like someone that has more electronics experience to see if the pcb that is included in this unit will be ok for our needs. If so I would definitely use it. although it is a bit pricey, I think withe protection that it has it would be cool.

Thanks
Mick8844
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on May 16, 2014, 04:48:44 AM
No, it will not unfortunately. The internal fusing @ 5amps is not going to cut off amperage at higher outputs on an okr 10. I saw this link http://www.batteryspace.com/Battery-holder-Li-Ion-18650-Battery-Holder-2S1P-With-2.6-long-20AWG.aspx which is more designed for a series circuit (putting the batteries together to total 7v nominal) but that's just food for thought.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 16, 2014, 01:11:18 PM
Looks like the same part to me.  5A is actually quite a bit for series cells.  At 7.4V nominal, it's good for 37 Watts input to the regulator.  You wouldn't be able to do super low resistance with that, but it would be fine otherwise.  An 800 mOhm atomizer in a mech is less than 20 Watts nominally.  Most people don't vape regularly with much more than that.  I haven't seen any polls, but based on what I've seen people talk about that seems to be the case.  I normally vape around 20W myself. 

That battery holder is designed for a standard 2C Li-Ion and 5A is close to the limit on those.  If you're using high drain cells, you wouldn't want the protection board anyway.  A protection board is a big source of power loss at high currents.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: M0n0 on May 16, 2014, 01:14:06 PM
Looks like the same part to me.  5A is actually quite a bit for series cells.  At 7.4V nominal, it's good for 37 Watts input to the regulator.  You wouldn't be able to do super low resistance with that, but it would be fine otherwise.  An 800 mOhm atomizer in a mech is less than 20 Watts nominally.  Most people don't vape regularly with much more than that.  I haven't seen any polls, but based on what I've seen people talk about that seems to be the case.  I normally vape around 20W myself. 

That battery holder is designed for a standard 2C Li-Ion and 5A is close to the limit on those.  If you're using high drain cells, you wouldn't want the protection board anyway.  A protection board is a big source of power loss at high currents.

Thanks for clarifying Craig!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 16, 2014, 07:33:32 PM
Hello all! So I know you have heard this a million and one times, but I am really really new to the modding game....shocker lol! I am trying to attempt to build and okr t10. I am bad with schematic drawings and am a true visual learner does anyone have the patients to walk me thru a build or point me to a really great video or anything.  This is very much outside every comfort box I have. So any help would be really really greatful. Thank you all.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 16, 2014, 08:16:50 PM
Ctarno Howdy,

Look up steeljan on yt she gives great helpful vids then after her if you watch come back here and get busy with the good quest questions. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DG-LRlSHFVM
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 16, 2014, 11:27:47 PM
ok so if i have mamu's tutorial on the okr chip, and from what i have been reading on the forum this would be a good place for a modder to start?  i feel really dumb because i have read it about 100 times, there seems to be some great schematics on here but i really don't have background reading them, so its kinda like greek.  so i have a hammond box 1591a and most of the stuff for the build, will that box be good for a 510, i have some from fat daddy? second all the stuff on mamu's pdf is all i should need for the okr build, if not will you guys point me in a right way? thanks  starting to get  raged:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 17, 2014, 01:13:56 AM
If you're referring to the Dena how-to, it will get you through the basics of modding with an OKR.  The guide was written about 3 years ago and for the T6, but still applies except for the wiring (use 20ga for input/output and 22ga-24ga for all other wiring) and if using the T10 use a 4.7K pull-down resistor, not a 10K.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: joshleeman on May 18, 2014, 12:17:03 AM
Hey guys and gals, ive been reading this thread and others here and elsewhere about building an okr-t10.  At this point I just don't grasp the entire process enough to feel comfortable buying parts and tools to build it so decided to buy one pre-built.  I was hoping some of you gurus could answer some questions centered around using one safely and properly.  First off I understand that .6 ohm is the lowest that you want to go at 6 volts because of the 10 amp limit.  What I'm wondering is, is there a benefit to device longevity or safety ect to maxing out a .6 build versus a lower ohm build with less power but still 10 amps?  If swapping out batteries isnt an issue whats the best available battery brand and model for an okr-t10 device?  Does the device cut out when they drop to a certain lvl or do I need to monitor that?  Is it recommended to swap the left and right battery mid cycle?  First post here so long and lost of questions but these are what Ive been unable to verify from the source.  I got a hexohm okr-t10 if that helps answer my questions.  Thanks guys and very appreciative of the help offered here, and I plan on using this device as a sort of DIY startup kit because I have heard things will eventually break down.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 18, 2014, 01:06:26 AM
So Manu where would I supplement the 4.7k resistor if I use one of the schematics down below? I really am kinda an idiot when it comes to this stuff. Sorry to be a big pain in the butt, once I understand things I will not be. Glad I am still waiting on some parts! And do you know if I can find that at like radioshack or Home Depot or something. Really appreciate he patience.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 18, 2014, 01:45:53 AM
Hey guys and gals, ive been reading this thread and others here and elsewhere about building an okr-t10.  At this point I just don't grasp the entire process enough to feel comfortable buying parts and tools to build it so decided to buy one pre-built.  I was hoping some of you gurus could answer some questions centered around using one safely and properly.  First off I understand that .6 ohm is the lowest that you want to go at 6 volts because of the 10 amp limit.  What I'm wondering is, is there a benefit to device longevity or safety ect to maxing out a .6 build versus a lower ohm build with less power but still 10 amps?  If swapping out batteries isnt an issue whats the best available battery brand and model for an okr-t10 device?  Does the device cut out when they drop to a certain lvl or do I need to monitor that?  Is it recommended to swap the left and right battery mid cycle?  First post here so long and lost of questions but these are what Ive been unable to verify from the source.  I got a hexohm okr-t10 if that helps answer my questions.  Thanks guys and very appreciative of the help offered here, and I plan on using this device as a sort of DIY startup kit because I have heard things will eventually break down.

You're saying that the people that you bought the mod from can't (or won't) answer your questions?  I would bug em til they do.  :laughing:

There's too many variables to properly answer your questions without knowing the build.  I looked at cravingvapor.com, and there's no info on how the build was done - can't tell if pin 1 was used (would provide safe low voltage batt protection if using a zener - otherwise there is no low voltage batt protection - if you don't pay attention the batts will drop to an unsafe low voltage).  I don't see any fuses or P-FET (so no fuse protection or reverse polarity protection).

Yes, keep an eye on uneven discharge and switch batt positions mid-voltage.

As for sub-ohms, you can do whatever as long as you don't exceed max watts or max amps of the converter.  These converters do take a beating though when running at full-tilt all the time and don't have great longevity when maxed or above maxed.

As for batts, I only use 30A Sony or LG - have had great results with them plus they have the lowest internal resistance of all 18650 batts - you should be able to go the distance with a 6v or so cutoff (loaded).

So Manu where would I supplement the 4.7k resistor if I use one of the schematics down below? I really am kinda an idiot when it comes to this stuff. Sorry to be a big pain in the butt, once I understand things I will not be. Glad I am still waiting on some parts! And do you know if I can find that at like radioshack or Home Depot or something. Really appreciate he patience.

I don't see a schematic??

4.7K is wired across pins 1 and 3 - it's a pull-down resistor to put the on/off control in a logic low state (OFF) so it doesn't auto-fire. 

4.7K is a common resistor so Radio Shack or a local electronics shop should have them.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 18, 2014, 02:57:42 AM
Like mamu said, there's some things you need to know you should be able to find out from the maker.  Reverse polarity protection and over-discharge protection is a biggie so they are responsible to provide that information from a safety standpoint.

Otherwise, you can load the regulator up to 10 Amps or 50 Watts, whichever comes first.  They [Murata] design their regulators to handle stated output limits without degradation in reliability, though you do have a somewhat higher risk of failure running at higher outputs than lower outputs.

For a converter, loading is mainly a matter of wattage so you won't get any difference in reliability whether you're doing say 5A at 6V versus 10A at 3V.  They're both 30 Watts and that's primarily what determines loading.  The current limit actually comes from the capability of the circuit board traces.  The components themselves are only limited by power output.

Since the 50W/10A rating is continuous and loading for an e-cig is intermittent, it provides a cooling interval which improves longevity to an extent.  Not that you should ever over-drive your regulator since there's always a risk, but you probably could without failure.

On the other hand, e-cigs demand converter startup repeatedly which puts wear and tear on the components.  Inrush currents occur when a converter starts up that put additional wear on the parts.  So, it's probably a wash in longevity between the two factors.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 18, 2014, 07:25:59 PM
Is it ok to use 30 amp batteries on an okr 10 chip
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: memoevapor on May 18, 2014, 10:15:48 PM
Is it ok to use 30 amp batteries on an okr 10 chip

 Sony or LG 30A 18650 batts would work fine. ;cheers;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 18, 2014, 10:20:26 PM
I'm in pasadena md and there is a huge influx of these "duke" mods around here. Everyone seems to think that you can only use the 10 amp 18650 batteries in the okr 10 mod otherwise it will fry the chip. Is this true? I seem to think that the chip will only take 10 amps from the power supply. But I'm not sure.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 18, 2014, 10:47:57 PM
I'm in pasadena md and there is a huge influx of these "duke" mods around here. Everyone seems to think that you can only use the 10 amp 18650 batteries in the okr 10 mod otherwise it will fry the chip. Is this true? I seem to think that the chip will only take 10 amps from the power supply. But I'm not sure.

Oh nooooo  if you use a 30 amp battery it will blow the okr up with some really tasty vapor if wicked and coiled with my ry4 in the chamber.  If it does not have my ry4 in it,  it will only be a sub par vape..

The okr only benefits from higher amp batteries, some people are running 100amp batts with an okr.   if coiled with-in specs its @7.5amps @50watts but from rip trippers it will definitely handle quite a few more amps --safely?  probably yes, but who needs to vape above 60watts is very ill..

It is a very powerful mod its limit is believe it or not 19amps it will vape over 100 watts  :thumbsup:  not in specs but its listed as it will do it by the manufacturer.

Quote
Current Limit Inception 19 Amps
 (98% of Vout setting, after warm up)

Use your 30 amp batts with confidence-- now if its wired with wimpy wire or bad solder joins  then the board will let ya know right away by humming or shutting down with no harm to it..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: joshleeman on May 18, 2014, 10:53:26 PM
I'm in pasadena md and there is a huge influx of these "duke" mods around here. Everyone seems to think that you can only use the 10 amp 18650 batteries in the okr 10 mod otherwise it will fry the chip. Is this true? I seem to think that the chip will only take 10 amps from the power supply. But I'm not sure.

Yes that was confusing me too because the site that sells the duke says "Works best with paired batteries rated under 15 amps. Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts."  I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery.  All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 19, 2014, 12:07:26 AM
Always plenty of sketchy info floating around out there.  You really have to filter stuff you read and hear sometimes. 

Before I get into this, let me point out that there's always a trade-off for drain limit and capacity (run time).  A higher drain battery will typically have less capacity and a lower drain battery will typically have more capacity.

It's usually better to use batteries with a higher drain even if you don't need the high output.  There are advantages with high drain batteries that any regulator can benefit from.  It's because there's less voltage sag under load with a higher drain battery.  That improves performance out of the electronics.  Also there is lower impedance from the battery internally.  This allows less change in voltage for high changes in load, for example, when a converter starts up.  Again this improves performance out of the electronics.

There are cases where a higher capacity, lower drain battery is preferable.  If loading is light, you can get improved run times with a high capacity battery.  However, there's a point of diminished returns in loading where a high capacity battery will not work as well as a high drain battery.  It simply depends on the power output you require.

There is some benefit with series cells when it comes to loading.  Since input voltage is doubled, input currents are halved so that threshold were you need to go from a standard battery to a high drain battery occurs at a higher power output. 

They're probably recommending batteries under 15 Amps drain to take advantage of the higher capacity a lower drain battery offers.  However, batteries like the LG HE2 and Sony VTC5 are approaching the capacities of a standard battery.  You're only taking a hit as little as 500 mAh for the high drain which I think is well worth the advantages it offers.

The comment you saw saying that 30A batteries will fry your regulator is nonsense.  Use the battery that best fits your needs.  If you want ultimate electrical performance, use the highest drain batteries.  If you want ultimate run times and don't have a need for high power outputs, use the highest capacity batteries.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 19, 2014, 12:58:51 AM
Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts."  I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery.  All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5.

Hmm, that sounds like double talk to me.  Voltage is voltage when it comes to safe discharge levels.  It doesn't matter if the battery has a 30A drain limit or a 5A drain limit.  If they're using some kind of sketchy method in detecting when the battery has been discharged then it's their bad engineering.  With a proper detection circuit it should not be necessary to require a particular brand of battery with a particular drain limit to guarantee a safe discharge level.

In any case, it's not a concern.  The only batteries that are unsafe to discharge as high as 3V are the LiPo flat cells and that mod uses 18650s.  All 18650s have a minimum safe discharge voltage at most 2.7V.  The Panasonics are even lower at 2.5 Volts.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jasen on May 19, 2014, 01:14:01 AM
Another good read and lesson Craig :applaude:

I poke around EFC, there's a lot of good info there, if your willing to weed through to find it, but to many rules for me, I hang out at Vtron, more good info and friendly helpful people, but I always seem to learn more here from this friendly knowledgeable bunch. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 19, 2014, 07:36:02 AM
Yes that was confusing me too because the site that sells the duke says "Works best with paired batteries rated under 15 amps. Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts."  I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery.  All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5.


Those batts were king of the hill a year and a half ago,  he recommended some of  the best batts on the market then, little was known about Sony vtc's or the Lg's..
 Eest and AW had uber low mah so his recommendation was awesome and I betcha it's  just an old instruction sheet  but yet still golden today.  But whoa batts, like Craig points out; have gone if your a spaceballs fan,  They've gone to plaid! .... Sir, we've never gone that fast before! ...

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 19, 2014, 04:38:38 PM
Sorry I'm just now getting the time to read and process all this wonderfull info. Thanks again Craig this info will prove to be very usefull when talking to these guys that are swearing by their panasonics 10 amps. Lol. I've been using vtc5's in mine and getting 2 full days out of them before the Zener shuts it down. Again thanks for helping a noob understand better.  :beer-toast:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 19, 2014, 05:11:10 PM
I poke around EFC, there's a lot of good info there, if your willing to weed through to find it, but to many rules for me, I hang out at Vtron, more good info and friendly helpful people, but I always seem to learn more here from this friendly knowledgeable bunch. 

There is some good info there, but you really have to fire up the brain filter to browse the posts there.  I used to visit that forum, but got tired of people battling what I posted there with bad info.  Not to be arrogant and imply that I never post anything incorrect, It happens sometimes, but I really try to make sure I post information that is accurate.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 19, 2014, 05:39:09 PM
Sorry I'm just now getting the time to read and process all this wonderfull info. Thanks again Craig this info will prove to be very usefull when talking to these guys that are swearing by their panasonics 10 amps. Lol. I've been using vtc5's in mine and getting 2 full days out of them before the Zener shuts it down. Again thanks for helping a noob understand better.

Welcome.

The 10A Panasonics are kind of a middle of the road battery, better electrical performance with a small trade-off in capacity compared to a standard battery.  They do fill a niche for those that don't need a particularly high power output and want more capacity while improving electrical performance compared to a standard battery.

The one thing I don't like about the latest 10A Panasonics is that as far as I can tell, they use the same proprietary NNP technology as the rest of the cells in the NCR series.  In terms of chemical volatility (safety), this technology rates about the same as a standard cobalt based Li-Ion cell.  I've seen claims the NCR18650PD uses the safer PSS technology Panasonic offers, but I haven't been able to find that out for sure one way or the other.   At this point, I tend to think the PDs and PFs use the NNP technology which is not as safe as the manganese based cells like the Sony VTC5 and LG HE2.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 19, 2014, 06:02:27 PM
There is some good info there, but you really have to fire up the brain filter to browse the posts there.  I used to visit that forum, but got tired of people battling what I posted there with bad info.  Not to be arrogant and imply that I never post anything incorrect, It happens sometimes, but I really try to make sure I post information that is accurate.

I hear you brother  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jasen on May 19, 2014, 08:43:10 PM
Yea at ECF you do have to slog through a lot of pig guano to get to the bacon.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mick8844 on May 20, 2014, 10:21:04 AM
I have a question mostly For Mamu but anyone can answer this one. I saw a reference to the Dena how to. Is this a video, and if so where can I find it. I have looked everywhere I know to find videos on how to do these mods and I have only found a few on youtube. I am a visual learner. If I can watch it be done it is a big help for me. Can anyone give me some direction on where to go to see these videos.


Thanks
Mick
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: joshleeman on May 20, 2014, 01:43:41 PM
Hmm, that sounds like double talk to me.  Voltage is voltage when it comes to safe discharge levels.  It doesn't matter if the battery has a 30A drain limit or a 5A drain limit.  If they're using some kind of sketchy method in detecting when the battery has been discharged then it's their bad engineering.  With a proper detection circuit it should not be necessary to require a particular brand of battery with a particular drain limit to guarantee a safe discharge level.

In any case, it's not a concern.  The only batteries that are unsafe to discharge as high as 3V are the LiPo flat cells and that mod uses 18650s.  All 18650s have a minimum safe discharge voltage at most 2.7V.  The Panasonics are even lower at 2.5 Volts.

Yeah I thought it was especially shady considering the only batteries that site sells is the ones that are "safe" for that mod.  Coincidentally there right next to the checkout with a big ole impossible to miss picture of them.  Just an attempt to upsale ppl visiting the site for that mod, which is always sold out.  Thanks for the help guys, I grabbed a fresh set of vtc5's for my okr-t10 mod.  Once I get it I'll try to get some pics of the chip for you all to look out and maybe then you can tell if it has those features I was asking about.  rev polarity, low voltage cutoff ect. Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 20, 2014, 02:35:12 PM
I have a question mostly For Mamu but anyone can answer this one. I saw a reference to the Dena how to. Is this a video, and if so where can I find it. I have looked everywhere I know to find videos on how to do these mods and I have only found a few on youtube. I am a visual learner. If I can watch it be done it is a big help for me. Can anyone give me some direction on where to go to see these videos.


Thanks
Mick

Dena is a written how-to for the OKR-T6 with lots of pics and detailed instructions.

I haven't done any how-to videos.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mick8844 on May 20, 2014, 07:26:01 PM
Written Is good. I am very or should I say VERY interested in building a Raptor. This may not be the place for the question but I wouldn't know where else to pose it. Where can I get a schematic and written information for one of those. I have built several boost regulated Mods using the info on here for the .44> have all the parts for a few OKR 10's but I really want to try a raptor so any information would be great.

Where can I get the written stuff for the Dena you didn't put that in your response. please tell me where to go to get the info.

Thank you for all of your help and your inspiration.
Mick

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 20, 2014, 10:48:32 PM
Raptor thread:

http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1015.0.html

Do you already have a raptor? They're sold out everywhere last I looked
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 21, 2014, 01:31:45 AM
Hey all just want to say this community is much nicer than others out there on other social media sites. You guys are always nice and courteous. Waiting for the last of my parts to come in and you guys have definitely been a source of happy for new modders. So all I think I need left is my okr board to arrive and then my question is do I absolutely need capacitors or can I skip them being my soldering is pretty bad. What do you guys think about the automotive stuff that is like cold soldering? Just nervous about messing up a nice board? Hints suggestions any help is awesomely appreciated.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 21, 2014, 02:28:00 AM
Deffinately pre solder everything. It's a process called tinning *sp? 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: memoevapor on May 21, 2014, 06:32:34 AM
Hey all just want to say this community is much nicer than others out there on other social media sites. You guys are always nice and courteous. Waiting for the last of my parts to come in and you guys have definitely been a source of happy for new modders. So all I think I need left is my okr board to arrive and then my question is do I absolutely need capacitors or can I skip them being my soldering is pretty bad. What do you guys think about the automotive stuff that is like cold soldering? Just nervous about messing up a nice board? Hints suggestions any help is awesomely appreciated.

Welcome to the forum Ctarno!  There is a very good tutorial on soldering under the modding tab, it is called simplified electronics easy tutorials. Post #16.
As far as the capacitors go, yes they are necessary.
I do not have any experience with the cold soldering technique so I will not comment on that. I would like to share my method for practicing soldering. I take apart old television remotes and practice soldering to the boards. These are great places to practice de-soldering as well......and by the way occasionally you find a useful item or two...leds,capacitors resisters..etc..

looking forward to hearing about your build! :popcorn:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Poppy26 on May 21, 2014, 09:20:42 AM
Hey all just want to say this community is much nicer than others out there on other social media sites. You guys are always nice and courteous. Waiting for the last of my parts to come in and you guys have definitely been a source of happy for new modders. So all I think I need left is my okr board to arrive and then my question is do I absolutely need capacitors or can I skip them being my soldering is pretty bad. What do you guys think about the automotive stuff that is like cold soldering? Just nervous about messing up a nice board? Hints suggestions any help is awesomely appreciated.

Welcome to the forum.

Yes there are bunch of nice mannered folks here.

I think soldering is the way to go. As per datasheet, caps are NOT mandatory but may help in some cases.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: joshleeman on May 21, 2014, 11:45:02 AM
Hey MAMU is there a diagram of your latest working okr-t10 build with all parts, with numbers, needed to make it from scratch with all the features you would incorporate into yours?  Like reverse pol prot, low volt cutoff, screen with 3 way switch to read atty and battery?  Or does anyone have something like that with a detailed wiring diagram and all parts needed with part numbers, or at least enough info for someone who doesnt really know the subtle differences between parts and brands and stuff?  Thanks you all!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 21, 2014, 12:12:25 PM
Hey MAMU is there a diagram of your latest working okr-t10 build with all parts, with numbers, needed to make it from scratch with all the features you would incorporate into yours?  Like reverse pol prot, low volt cutoff, screen with 3 way switch to read atty and battery?  Or does anyone have something like that with a detailed wiring diagram and all parts needed with part numbers, or at least enough info for someone who doesnt really know the subtle differences between parts and brands and stuff?  Thanks you all!!

 fainting:


Did ya read page 6? It has everything posted you just asked,  like three times its posted on page 6..



Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 21, 2014, 04:15:51 PM
What do you guys think about the automotive stuff that is like cold soldering? Just nervous about messing up a nice board? Hints suggestions any help is awesomely appreciated.

Cold soldering involves a soldering tool that runs an electric current through the solder joint to heat the connection.  It's only cold in that the tool itself does not generate heat.  It still heats the connection and melts the solder like a regular soldering iron.  There's a couple problems with using one of these soldering tools for electronics.  For one, the tools generally don't have tips fine enough for small joints so you're limited in how small you can go with one.  Also, the tool applies a voltage to the joint so it's possible to inadvertently apply voltage to parts of the circuit where voltage should not be applied.

I've not heard of anyone having a lot of success using a cold soldering tool for circuit board work and it's probably not something I would attempt.

Along those lines are glue type solders people have mentioned as an option to standard hand soldering.  It's possible to make connections this way successfully for certain types (where higher connection resistance is not a problem), but again not something I would bother with.

The thing about normal soldering with an iron is that it's mostly in the tools and supplies.  If you use a temperature adjusted soldering station set to the correct temperature with the right tip and the right solder it's actually hard to solder badly.  You should view a few tutorials on soldering, get the right tools and equipment, then practice on some junk parts first.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 21, 2014, 09:44:49 PM
Thank you for the info guys and gals. If anyone is here from the Las Vegas area, is there a better store than radio shack to pick up caps and resistors? A brick and mortar style place. And it would be great to know if anyone else lives out here. Talk to you all later :rockin smiley:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 21, 2014, 09:50:55 PM
The radio shack by me has nothing but cell phones and beats headphones. I have to do it all online. It's been rough I've been sent the wrong stuff a lot. The 220 ohm resistors I ordered, yep they were 10k ohm. Wish there was a electronics superstore chain.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 21, 2014, 10:31:59 PM
Me too
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: joshleeman on May 22, 2014, 12:38:03 AM
fainting:


Did ya read page 6? It has everything posted you just asked,  like three times its posted on page 6..

Where is there a diagram of Mamu's build with all those features, and all parts needed with part numbers?  The only part numbers I saw was someones screenshot of an order but the next post was pointing out a bunch of errors on it.  Link me that diagram you see on page 6 because I couldnt find it, thanks!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 22, 2014, 10:05:57 AM
Where is there a diagram of Mamu's build with all those features, and all parts needed with part numbers?  The only part numbers I saw was someones screenshot of an order but the next post was pointing out a bunch of errors on it.  Link me that diagram you see on page 6 because I couldnt find it, thanks!!

Was mistaken on the parts yeah those are not the parts you want. oh_my: you can read I obviously skimmed it or cannot lol  :thumbsup: woot another OKR build incoming--
I'll help ya with parts list if ya want..

I've been doing some more testing with the OKR-T10.

The 1K ohm pull-down resister is causing a major concern with the current drain.  The 5.6v zener is kicking in to cut off the OKR from firing at 6v under load, but the batts if left in the mod after the cutoff continue to drain and with the 1K ohm resister drain at a faster rate.  The series batts drained down to 5v.  oh_my:

I've re-breadboarded the setup and replaced the 1K ohm resister with a 4.7K ohm resister and so far good to go.  With my previous setup I couldn't do higher than 2K without getting auto-firing with the zener inline.  Now I'm thinking it was the funky breadboard I was using because now with the new breadboard a higher resistance is doing fine.

I've updated the wiring guide to reflect this.

(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/okr-t10-wiring.png)

fuse
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AGRF500-2/AGRF500TR-ND/1113329

battery holders
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv32=189&FV=fff40006%2Cfff80022&k=keystone&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

220 ohm 1/4watt resistors
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MFP-25BRD52-220R/220ADCT-ND/2059126

4.7k ohm resistor
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NFR25H0004701JR500/PPC4.7KBCT-ND/614262

5.6v Zener
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1N5232BTR/1N5232BFSCT-ND/458917

200ohm trimmers choose the one you like
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1=291&FV=fff40004%2Cfff80338&k=trimmer&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

22uf 16v Capacitors choose the one your comfortable with using
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv14=9&FV=fff40002%2Cfff8000a&k=22uf&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Mosfet
Not sure so many to choose but I would use the one in Mamu's raptor build
Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #124 on: March 07, 2014, 05:49:18 AM »

Switch
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1103M2S3CQE2/CKN5051-ND/483721

Meter
I use this one --it comes in red green or blue
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1222902
 
OKR T10
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=okr+t10
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 22, 2014, 12:10:46 PM
So random thought process with the okr t/10 is a step down dc to dc needed? Just popped into my head? Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 22, 2014, 03:54:40 PM
So if no capacitors are needed why do most schematics have them in? And if this is true that means I can direct wire? Thanks breaktru.  I may not be the smartest but I keep trying.....lol
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 22, 2014, 08:19:32 PM
does it matter if the resistors are 1/2  or an 1/8? and if no capacitors are being used then i can wire straight to the okr? confused freaked_out:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 22, 2014, 09:15:35 PM
does it matter if the resistors are 1/2  or an 1/8? and if no capacitors are being used then i can wire straight to the okr? confused freaked_out:

If you look at the O.P. you will not find caps used in my schematic. I have never used them on an OKR.

The resistors are in low current portion of the circuit so 1/8 Watt will be fine. You can go as low as 1/10 of a watt. For accuracy the suggested tolerance is + or - 0.5%. I use 1%
Title: Battery connections
Post by: Ctarno on May 23, 2014, 01:07:45 PM
Quick question. Can I use just battery clips instead of the sled? Or can I make copper springs.?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 23, 2014, 01:12:26 PM
How can I add charging capabilities to this mod? Something along the lines of a USB port
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jrweber02 on May 23, 2014, 01:22:07 PM
How can I add charging capabilities to this mod? Something along the lines of a USB port

http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,543.0.html
check this link to breaks diagram you can not charge both while in  8.4 volt but this allows you to switch the mod off and charge each one individual via usb
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 23, 2014, 01:40:59 PM
Cool thanks. Shame you can't charge them both the same time. I guess w/out using a lipo pack that isn't possible. I'll be adding it in. Thanks again
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 23, 2014, 01:41:30 PM
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,543.0.html
check this link to breaks diagram you can not charge both while in  8.4 volt but this allows you to switch the mod off and charge each one individual via usb


He can charge both batts on one usb when using that diagram it switches series  then to parallel they are one huge batt when parallel but for faster charging individual usb for each..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jrweber02 on May 23, 2014, 01:47:41 PM
Haha sry I just woke up and was think about something different you are correct it switchs to parallel my bad  on the bad info had the right diagram tho
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 23, 2014, 02:13:27 PM
yeah I had linked to that post then saw you had it linked already lol
its so tiny on my screen i did not see it.

yeah thats a cool switch diagram, those switches are usually huge, I haven't looked for one yet but they are huge the ones I know about..  gotta do some good planning for room in the enclosure..  They make miniature toggles that are smaller than the slide switches 3pdt per amps. meh  Break may have found a tiny one but he can stuff a 10lb watermelon in a soup can so he may not have lol..   I guess if I look at it if using a balance plug its about the same ~sizing.. If not using lipo's swapping in and out batts is better bests for me..

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 23, 2014, 04:20:58 PM
This the smallest 3P3T switch I could find: GF-161-3011 (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=sw121-nd)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 23, 2014, 05:00:53 PM
If you're determined to use a USB charger, that's the way to do it, but you're also splitting the rate between two cells so you're going to get longer charge times.  Depends though, I use a 1A rate USB charger for parallel 18650s and it takes about 6 hours.  When I get at least a day of run time out of a charge, 6 hours is not a big deal. 

In any case, I would go with a balance charger for series cells rather than a USB charger with a series/parallel battery switch.  That way you can charge and vape at the same time if you want.  The connectors are pretty small, not really any bigger than a USB plug so that's not an issue.

If you're using removable cells then there's not a whole lot of reason to use a USB charging port.  If you're using non-removable cells, they may likely be the 2S LiPos and those come already wired up with the balance charging plug.  You just mount the plug in the mod so it's accessible then use the appropriate cable.  Hobby King has balance chargers and cables with great prices.

If anyone is here from the Las Vegas area, is there a better store than radio shack to pick up caps and resistors? A brick and mortar style place.

As far as finding electronics components brick & mortar, good luck with that.  Online retail has put a lot of specialty brick & mortar shops out of business, electronics shops included.  There was one in my town, but not anymore.  Vegas being a bigger town than Reno may still have a few or they may not.  Getting your parts online is pretty much the only option anymore. 

Granted you have the lead time on shipping, but you do get used to the idea of not being able to run out and get something right away when you need it, just have to plan better.  In any case, things are a lot cheaper online and you don't waste time or expensive gas driving around looking for parts. 

My favorite online supplier is Mouser, but they don't have the best prices.  They do have the best parametric search for parts and that's worth a lot to me.  A lot of times you can request samples for free directly from the maker and you can't beat that.  I have a whole drawer full of parts I got for free that way.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 23, 2014, 06:14:23 PM
Can I use two 18650 single battery holders and bridge them together. Or am I better off pulling the clips out from an old remote control? Having issues waiting for my keystone and I want to get started with this! Any ideas or help would be awesome. Thank you guys so much for the inspiration
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on May 23, 2014, 06:50:23 PM
Once again craig saves me. Lol thanks man. I'm having trouble finding a lipo pack, well I'm not sure if the one I found is correct. Can you please please point me in the right direction.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: N-Lab Mix on May 24, 2014, 08:09:36 AM
I'm planning to make a MOD using this converter can i apply your schematic circuit sir? and can you help me knowing what rate or Amp rating should i use for resettable fuse? Thanks in advance!!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 24, 2014, 11:53:18 AM
I'm having trouble finding a lipo pack, well I'm not sure if the one I found is correct. Can you please please point me in the right direction.

Here's a link for you;

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?cwhl=XX&idCategory=317&v=&sortlist=P&LiPoConfig=2&CatSortOrder=asc

You want the 20C ones, that's a plenty high enough rating for an e-cig and you get the best capacity for the size that way. 

Here's a charger and cables too;

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49338__Turnigy_E3_Compact_2S_3S_Lipo_Charger_100_240v_US_Plug_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9735__JST_XH_2S_Wire_Extension_20cm_10pcs_bag_.html



Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 24, 2014, 12:11:23 PM
Can I use two 18650 single battery holders and bridge them together. Or am I better off pulling the clips out from an old remote control? Having issues waiting for my keystone and I want to get started with this! Any ideas or help would be awesome. Thank you guys so much for the inspiration

Depending you power requirements, your battery holder can be a bottleneck in power delivery.  You really need to use the best you can find.  The Keystone sleds have been found to do pretty well and you should not deviate from a quality battery holder.

Clips from a remote control are not designed for high currents and may introduce a lot of resistance.  Do not use a battery holder with springs.  Those have high resistance.  They're fine for electronics that draw very low currents, but you're in a different league with an e-cig that uses a relatively high amount of power and draws a good amount of current from the battery.

If you really want to avoid using a sled, you can probably find good clips that will perform well, should be able to find them at an online electronics shop, but then again you have the wait for shipping.  Don't have any recommendations there. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 24, 2014, 05:39:50 PM
What would happen if I used solid copper wires for the battery springs, like in a dual mech box? Something along the lines of 18 gauge? Would that cause an issue? Then I can bridge the 2 springs? What so you guys think?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 24, 2014, 07:25:32 PM
Copper is a problem for contacts in that it quickly builds up a layer of electrically resistant tarnish, though copper itself is the best conductor of all the elements second only to silver.  To use copper in contacts, it has to be plated with a hard tarnish resistant metal.  Typically nickel or tin-nickel is used since those have fairly good conductivity, but if you want the best sparing no expense, use rhodium.  That metal has similar tarnish resistance as platinum and very good conductivity, not a whole lot less than copper.  Also it's a hard metal so it holds up well to abrasion.  The down side is it's a precious metal and it's expensive, similar to gold.

You can't really use copper as a spring like material since it's a soft metal and there's no way to temper it.  You have to use spring steel, but it's a crappy conductor.  To make a spring perform well electrically, it needs a thick plate.  Though even then, a spring is basically a long wire so it's going to have more resistance than a piece of sheetmetal.  There's really option other than a sheetmetal contact.  Again those are spring steel and require a thick plating to work well.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 24, 2014, 07:53:03 PM
So basically I should wait 2 weeks for my sled to get here. It's the only piece I am missing to build this device. So that's why I am asking for other suggestions. That blows
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 24, 2014, 10:04:52 PM
For those who are following my wiring guide, I updated my wiring guide to include a master kill switch.

We've found that the zener diode does not block idle current drain, so you HAVE to remove the batts from the mod at cutoff voltage, or have a master kill switch, else the batts will continue to drain past an unsafe voltage.

With idle current drain wiping out our batts if left in the mod past the cutoff voltage, it would be a good idea to include a master kill switch, especially those mods with internal lipo batts in which you can't easily remove the batts.  A master kill switch also, of course, protects the converter from accidentally firing the atty.

The important consideration for a master kill switch with these converters that have idle current at the on/off control is to have a disconnect between Vin and voltage source.  I've seen a few guides/schematics that have a simple SPST on/off slide switch disconnecting Vin from on/off control when the switch is positioned off and labeling that as a lockout switch - this is misleading modders into thinking that it is a true kill switch and they're safe from idle current drain when they're not.  It prevents the converter from firing, but does not stop idle current drain.  It also does not stop the voltage reader from displaying input volts.

With a DPST switch wired as shown in the guide, Vin is disconnected from voltage source and also on/off control when the switch is in the off position.  You can safely leave the batts in your mod for however long you like and not have to worry about current drain - as long as you remember to turn the switch off - that I can't help you with.  :laughing:

(Edit:  a rated slide switch is needed)

(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/okr-t10-wiring-mks.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CarbonModder710 on May 25, 2014, 12:48:59 PM
Just thought id step in and say hello, if this thread is still going ill be on it quite a bit, just got mess load of electronics to build some boxes for some local stores, i did a carbon fiber enclosure with a dual 18350 setup and for some reason people went bananas over the enclosure being made from carbon fiber. And mamu thank you so much for providing these amazing schematics. im gong to go ahead and have to order the rest of the electronics needed to make a box with your schematics, ill probably end up putting the first one with a screen in a hammond aluminum enclosure and then if i think it will sell i will make a new mold to make a little bit bigger carbon enclosure
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 25, 2014, 03:10:27 PM
Just thought id step in and say hello, if this thread is still going ill be on it quite a bit, just got mess load of electronics to build some boxes for some local stores, i did a carbon fiber enclosure with a dual 18350 setup and for some reason people went bananas over the enclosure being made from carbon fiber. And mamu thank you so much for providing these amazing schematics. im gong to go ahead and have to order the rest of the electronics needed to make a box with your schematics, ill probably end up putting the first one with a screen in a hammond aluminum enclosure and then if i think it will sell i will make a new mold to make a little bit bigger carbon enclosure


Welcome to the forum CM. Please don't post about selling mods. This is a DIY forum for personal mods.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 25, 2014, 06:24:41 PM
Good news is that, like the fire switch, with the master kill switch tied to on/off control you don't need a rated DPST on/off slide switch.  Without having to have a rated slide switch you should find these readily available and in smaller sizes.

I'm not understanding how the switch doesn't need to be rated for the vin max current. I get that the slide switch isn't being switched under full current load, only 1ma to the remote pin. But when switched on and then fired the vin current would be going through the switch. Just hoping you could provide some clarity, thanks.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CarbonModder710 on May 25, 2014, 06:44:04 PM
Welcome to the forum CM. Please don't post about selling mods. This is a DIY forum for personal mods.
I am very sorry about mentioning anything about selling my enclosures, i should have thought more about my first post on a new forum, i am usually very respectful of rules and do not use foul language but i was excited to get on here and see whats going on in the world of power regulated mods. Breaktru is there any way to directly message you?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 25, 2014, 09:30:55 PM
I'm not understanding how the switch doesn't need to be rated for the vin max current. I get that the slide switch isn't being switched under full current load, only 1ma to the remote pin. But when switched on and then fired the vin current would be going through the switch. Just hoping you could provide some clarity, thanks.

oh wait lol... I think I got what I did wrong.  I was only looking at one part of the switch - the Vin-on/off control side.

Right - there is current going across the switch from batt +  to Vin.

So, it does need a rated slide switch unless there's a different way to wire this.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 26, 2014, 07:42:02 AM
oh wait lol... I think I got what I did wrong.  I was only looking at one part of the switch - the Vin-on/off control side.

Right - there is current going across the switch from batt +  to Vin.

So, it does need a rated slide switch unless there's a different way to wire this.

Yes mamu, you want to isolate the battery with the on/off switch so a rated switch is necessary. A SPST can be used.
Also, I suggest putting the low battery indicator on the switched side of the on/off switch.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 26, 2014, 04:20:01 PM
How about this for a kill switch:

6 amps dpdt slide switch, connect to two sets of terminals in parallel for 12 amps

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/1201M2S3CQE2/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugwNSjKfGlHGNBlv2rz8CMp5wVZ64JEtfeqTdjqEG4CkQ%3d%3d

http://components.arrow.com/part/detail/43424680S5158853N9444

(http://i.imgur.com/eVBPghI.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 26, 2014, 07:19:03 PM
oh wait lol... I think I got what I did wrong.  I was only looking at one part of the switch - the Vin-on/off control side.

Right - there is current going across the switch from batt +  to Vin.

So, it does need a rated slide switch unless there's a different way to wire this.

How about this Mamu...............
Use either a SPST or SPDT like this: Mini Slide (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/CS12ANW03/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRcpRel%252bqFBSa42ziMW8wx9tM%3d)
I use this switch on my PTR08100w, OKR-T/10 and PTN4050C mods.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 26, 2014, 09:05:01 PM
Thanks Breaktru and David.

I haven't had time to play with it more, but I was hoping there would be a way to use a non rated master switch.  I'm not ready to give up yet. 

My goal is to disconnect the converter from firing AND stop idle current drain.  I just need to figure out how to do that without using a rated master switch.  It may not be a true master kill switch, but if it meets my goal I'll be happy with it.

I'm thinking along the lines of working with Vin, on/off control, and the pull-down resistor with a DPST or DPDT switch. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 26, 2014, 10:47:58 PM
How about this Mamu...............
Use either a SPST or SPDT like this: Mini Slide (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/CS12ANW03/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRcpRel%252bqFBSa42ziMW8wx9tM%3d)
I use this switch on my PTR08100w, OKR-T/10 and PTN4050C mods.

Only AC ratings for that switch, how can you be sure they're suitable for DC?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 27, 2014, 07:35:35 AM
ok... I give up.  I tried wiring every which way, but no can do without a rated master switch.  :no:

The simplest wiring is with your advice breaktru for a rated SPST switch, but I'd like to place it after the fuse and P-FET, that way it would be protected from the batts' current if something funky happens there.

I googled about rating a switch from AC to DC and this is what I found...

DC Rule of Thumb
For those switches that list an AC voltage rating only, the "DC Rule of Thumb" can be applied for determining the switch's maximum DC current rating. This "rule" states the highest amperage on the switch should perform satisfactorily up to 30 volts DC. For example, a switch which is rated at 10A 250VAC; 15A 125VAC; 3/4HP 125-250VAC, will be likely to perform satisfactorily at 15 amps up to 30 volts DC (VDC).

https://www.carlingtech.com/amp-hp-volts (https://www.carlingtech.com/amp-hp-volts)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
DC CAPABILITY OF AC SWITCHES
It is important to also note that many AC rated switches can be used in applications where less than 30V DC is required, provided current does not exceed the full current 125V AC rating of the switch. In general, the 125V AC rating would be equivalent to the 28V DC rating

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Switches/CH_Switch_Training_Manual.pdf (http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Switches/CH_Switch_Training_Manual.pdf)
------------------------------------------------------------------------

How about this for a kill switch:

6 amps dpdt slide switch, connect to two sets of terminals in parallel for 12 amps

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/1201M2S3CQE2/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugwNSjKfGlHGNBlv2rz8CMp5wVZ64JEtfeqTdjqEG4CkQ%3d%3d

http://components.arrow.com/part/detail/43424680S5158853N9444

(http://i.imgur.com/eVBPghI.png)

I wonder if there is any advantage to wiring parallel this way...
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/dpdt-parallel-wiring.jpg)

But then I read this and not sure if it also applies to parallel wiring a DPDT switch...

It is not advisable at all to connect relay contacts in parallel to handle higher load currents. For example, never attempt to supply a 10A load with two relays in parallel that have 5A contact ratings each, as the mechanically operated relay contacts never close or open at exactly the same instant of time. The result is that one relay contact will always be overloaded even for a brief instant in time resulting in premature failure of the relay over time.

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/io/io_5.html (http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/io/io_5.html)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 27, 2014, 09:02:02 AM
Yes parallel contacts on a DPDT switch would increase the amp rating but an SPST 3A @ 125v would be sufficient enough to handle our needs (48A @ 7.81V. Were trying to keep the physical size down so a mini SPST would be nice.

Remember we are turning on and off the switch when we are NOT powering the DC-DC converter so there should not be an issue. We are not holding the fire button while switching the on/off switch.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 27, 2014, 10:16:53 AM
Thanks for that insight, breaktru.  What I understand then is since we're turning the master switch on and off under no current, we're not really asking anything of the master switch other than it allowing current to pass through it to get to the Vin terminal of the fire switch when we press the fire switch. 

Is this correct then - if we have say a 5A rated master switch and 10A or even 20A is simply passing through that switch, it's not going to affect the switch or cause failure?  Would a low amp rated switch have higher contact resistance vs a high amp rated switch? 

I think I'm confused though on how you're rating the 3A 125VAC switch.  From what I've read and linked to in my previous post, that AC switch is still 3A up to 30VDC.  Above 30VDC, the amp rating goes down.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 27, 2014, 10:45:04 AM
Turning a switch off or on with a heavy load causes arcing to the contacts which can be detrimental to the switch.
With the switch on and hitting the fire button, you would still need to insure that the switch contacts are rated to the proper amp value of the load so a low rated switch is not advisable. Even if the sw contacts don't burn out, high resistance across the contacts will be in play (voltage drop).

If you look at some of the switch ratings you may see say, 1.5A @ 250V or 3A @ 125V. Using that analogy and doing the math, you will see the lower the voltage the higher the amp rating. This is not an exact calculation. The amp to voltage rating is not necessarily linear. But we can assume that with two 3.7v batteries in series (8.4v) the switch would be safe to use with the converters we are using.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 27, 2014, 12:05:32 PM
The ratings for switches apply only for the amount of power they can switch on and off, not what the contacts can handle when closed.  That would be higher.  Unfortunately, they don't provide ratings for that.

What you can do is measure voltage drop across the switch under load to find how much power is getting lost in the switch.  For example, if you put a 10A load on the switch and measure 50 mV across the terminals, the switch has 5 mOhms resistance and is losing 500mW.  You probably wouldn't want to see more than a half watt lost in the switch at maximal loading.  Any more than that and the switch is probably going to burn out.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 27, 2014, 01:07:18 PM
I knew good ole Craig would come thru and set us on the straight and narrow path  :laughing:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 27, 2014, 01:16:37 PM
Hehe, assuming that is in fact the straight and narrow path :)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 27, 2014, 04:43:08 PM
Thanks for all the switch info everyone
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 27, 2014, 05:06:05 PM
I knew good ole Craig would come thru and set us on the straight and narrow path  :laughing:

For sure. 

Craig has given me many "aaha I get it now".  He is like our pot of gold at the end of the rainbow - previous and valued.

Hehe, assuming that is in fact the straight and narrow path :)

lol

That's good news that the contacts can handle higher power than what the switch is rated for.

Seriously Craig you're a blessing.  You're always willing to help us and share and are patient with us and your explanations and advice are very much appreciated. 

:thankyou:



Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: memoevapor on May 27, 2014, 05:19:04 PM

Seriously Craig you're a blessing.  You're always willing to help us and share and are patient with us and your explanations and advice are very much appreciated. 

:thankyou:

What Mamu said  :rockin smiley:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 27, 2014, 05:32:04 PM
A few questions if you have time, Craig.  I think as David said paralleling a DPST or DPDT switch is a great idea if we should need it.

Would a higher amp rating then of 12A from a 6A DPST or DPDT switch when paralleling also include a higher amp rating for the contacts?  Or would the contacts still be the same?  Would the contact resistance change with this parallel configuration and be an advantage for less resistance and thus less voltage drop under load?

Also, is there any advantage to wiring this way...
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/dpdt-parallel-wiring.jpg)

vs this way?
(http://i.imgur.com/eVBPghI.png)

It doesn't seem like it would matter, but in my search last night I saw these 2 different types of wiring configurations and it got me to wondering if there was a reason for wiring one way vs the other.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 27, 2014, 05:54:21 PM
So I know this has been said before but which hamond 1590 box is correct in size. Mine is way to narrow and short. I am not happy
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 27, 2014, 06:01:21 PM
1590g takes some creativity to get everything to fit, grinding corners, chopping battery sleds... go with the 1590b if you want more room to work with. it's slightly higher in height and about half an inch longer & wider.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 27, 2014, 06:03:54 PM
Thank you. People here are much nicer than"fb" group!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 27, 2014, 06:38:42 PM
T6 1550P 18350s

Another switch question:

Bottom slide switch is wired to break the series link for use as an on-off. I chose this as a convenience of my layout. Would the resistance of the switch be significant enough that I shouldn't have it in the middle of the battery series? Are there any issues I should be aware of with this switch placement?

Switch used:
http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1101M2S3CQE2virtualkey61170000virtualkey611-1101M2S3CQE2
http://www.ck-components.com/14394/1000_4jun13.pdf/

(http://i.imgur.com/Mu995nT.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/AkXITJD.jpg)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 27, 2014, 06:48:53 PM
Nice going David  :beer-toast:
Thanks for sharing your photos
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Bwrairden on May 27, 2014, 06:51:52 PM
I've seen one schematic here that uses a spst master switch that breaks the negative to all components. Is this acceptable? And would a .5 amp 30v DC switch be suitable?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 27, 2014, 07:17:59 PM
Sweet mod David  clean

when you switch on or off they do not have to balance so there is no load on it.
Oh hey there they say, didnt know you were here too  :laughing2:
no different then puttin series batts in a flashllight

I think break linked to 3A version so if that one is fine your golden
those screws would drive me batty.  meh',  your extra 20 secs not mine haha  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 27, 2014, 07:25:19 PM
Thank you.

Magnets will be replacing screws. Spray painted them to match the box. Will epoxy them when I get around to it.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on May 27, 2014, 08:02:33 PM
Bunch of stuff so I'm not going to try to quote anything, sorry if this gets confusing.

First, welcome on the thanks.  I enjoy talking about this stuff and the forum gives me the opportunity.

For the first photo, you're doing the same thing but different.  I don't see any advantage there and it's more trouble to wire.

You can think of a switch like a resistor, two switches in parallel halves the resistance and doubles power tolerance.  However, similar to fuses, there are derating considerations.  Since the ability of something to handle current always comes down to heat, there's more heat with both poles adjacently connected.  However, you still come out way ahead, just not as far ahead as two individual switches.

When you see a rating like 24V/3A, that's actually a power rating in terms of Volts and Amps.  It additionally indicates the switch's voltage limit and maximal current at that voltage.  The power rating of a switch determines the maximal amount of power you can control while still meeting the switch's MTBF (longevity).  Ratings are mainly about MTBF since the contacts wear due to arcing and eventually fail to conduct after a number of cycles.  The more power the switch is controlling the faster that happens.  You could exceed the rating with a sacrifice in longevity.  You could largely exceed the rating with a large sacrifice in longevity.  It's not pass or fail like an absolute maximum rating you'd see in a data sheet. 

Switch ratings mostly come down to the characteristics of the contacts.  This does not necessarily determine the amount of current a switch can handle though it comes into play.  You could have a switch with a high MTBF and power rating by way of a large mating area with high performance materials, but if the paths running to that area are small, the switch may overheat with currents largely over those stated in the ratings.  The opposite could be true, large paths, but small mating area.

Switches don't always have ratings in terms of  Amps and Volts.  Sometimes they use VA which is a power rating like Watts, but includes the power factors you see with loads like motors and transformers.  When a switch has a rating in terms of Amps and Volts, it's a safe assumption the switch can handle a higher current with a lower voltage.  When power does not exceed the specification, the limitation for current flow is simply a matter of resistance between the switch's terminals.  As long as power is within tolerance, the base current a switch can handle is typically much higher than the Amps you might see stated in a rating.

There's no way find how much current a switch can carry from its data sheet.  They just don't provide that information.  They only provide the rating for how much power you can control.  When power is not exceeded, it's a matter of how much current it takes for the internal paths of the switch to get too hot.  It's something you have to measure for yourself as I mentioned previously.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 28, 2014, 12:48:19 AM
Thanks for the explanation Craig! 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 28, 2014, 02:09:00 AM
Is there a way to do this or something like this on a single battery? Regulated with awesome performance? Please for all that is holly don't say buy an SVD or something like that. Lol
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Bwrairden on May 28, 2014, 10:31:54 AM
Hey guys, new to the forum and to mod building. About to try my first one and just wanted to check and make sure I've drawn a good schematic. Any input would be great. Thanks.



(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/bwrairden/e0c40a805448e3908518559528b99ec9.jpg)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 28, 2014, 10:41:00 AM
Is there a way to do this or something like this on a single battery? Regulated with awesome performance? Please for all that is holly don't say buy an SVD or something like that. Lol

http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,215.0.html
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 28, 2014, 12:23:41 PM
Hey guys, new to the forum and to mod building. About to try my first one and just wanted to check and make sure I've drawn a good schematic. Any input would be great. Thanks.


Yup. That will work, less the PTC protection
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Bwrairden on May 28, 2014, 01:37:06 PM
Yup. That will work, less the PTC protection

I read mamu's post about fuses on ECF and it makes my head spin.

I take the t10 max wattage at 80% effiencency for a total of 62.5w, divided by min input voltage = 3.4v. 62.5/3.4= 18.38 amps.  Seems huge.

Then I read here that you recommend (2) 5 amp fuses in parallel. That sounds right to me.  But I want to understand why.

What am I missing?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 28, 2014, 01:58:21 PM
I read mamu's post about fuses on ECF and it makes my head spin.

I take the t10 max wattage at 80% effiencency for a total of 62.5w, divided by min input voltage = 3.4v. 62.5/3.4= 18.38 amps.  Seems huge.

Then I read here that you recommend (2) 5 amp fuses in parallel. That sounds right to me.  But I want to understand why.

What am I missing?

Min input voltage for the T10 is 6v.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: joshleeman on May 28, 2014, 04:30:02 PM
Was mistaken on the parts yeah those are not the parts you want. oh_my: you can read I obviously skimmed it or cannot lol  :thumbsup: woot another OKR build incoming--
I'll help ya with parts list if ya want..

fuse
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AGRF500-2/AGRF500TR-ND/1113329

battery holders
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv32=189&FV=fff40006%2Cfff80022&k=keystone&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

220 ohm 1/4watt resistors
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MFP-25BRD52-220R/220ADCT-ND/2059126

4.7k ohm resistor
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NFR25H0004701JR500/PPC4.7KBCT-ND/614262

5.6v Zener
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1N5232BTR/1N5232BFSCT-ND/458917

200ohm trimmers choose the one you like
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1=291&FV=fff40004%2Cfff80338&k=trimmer&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

22uf 16v Capacitors choose the one your comfortable with using
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv14=9&FV=fff40002%2Cfff8000a&k=22uf&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Mosfet
Not sure so many to choose but I would use the one in Mamu's raptor build
Re: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
« Reply #124 on: March 07, 2014, 05:49:18 AM »

Switch
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1103M2S3CQE2/CKN5051-ND/483721

Meter
I use this one --it comes in red green or blue
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1222902
 
OKR T10
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=okr+t10

You are awesome!!!  Thank you so much for doing this, I'm sure it will help out many more ppl than just me.  This stuff is incredibly overwhelming at first when you have zero experience building electronics.  Thank you thank you thank youu!!!!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on May 28, 2014, 05:22:18 PM
I have a noob question, I will be building a unit like in the above schematic with a OKR-T6 and already have a 500 ohm pot in junk drawer. Is there a way to compensate for the 500 ohm so the whole pot will be useful instead of maxing out at half way? 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 28, 2014, 06:10:30 PM
You won't max out half way, your high output voltage (about 6v) will be reached at the end of a full turn. What will change is your low voltage output at the full opposite turn. It will be about 2.2v with a 500 ohm pot, instead of about 3.4v with a 200 ohm pot.

The value of the fixed resistor (220 ohm) between the trim pin & potentiometer sets your high voltage. The combined value of the potentiometer (200 or 500 ohm in your example) and the fixed resistor sets your low voltage.

Page 4 of the OKR-T/10 spec sheet has a formula you can use with the different resistance values and the output voltage. An online algebra calculator makes for easy figuring.

http://www.mathpapa.com/algebra-calculator.html
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on May 28, 2014, 06:28:40 PM
Hey guys, new to the forum and to mod building. About to try my first one and just wanted to check and make sure I've drawn a good schematic. Any input would be great. Thanks.



(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/bwrairden/e0c40a805448e3908518559528b99ec9.jpg)

Really nicely laid out drawing. Best of luck with your first mod.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mxrdrver on May 29, 2014, 07:59:45 PM
Ok, I'm building a box mod with a OKR-T10 inside of a Hammond 1590G. I'm using BreakTru's schematic that uses Pin#1 because I screwed up and ordered 2A push button switches. His schematic says to use a on/off switch between the +battery contact and Pin#1, I would assume to prevent battery drain when the mod is not in use. Looking at what I have, inside the 1590G, I don't have room for a on/off switch. I was curious, if I used the zener diode that Mamu talked about, would that prevent total battery loss without using a on/off switch?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jasen on May 29, 2014, 08:18:11 PM
MX, Welcome
Actually I believe the switch is just a master power switch to prevent accidentally firing it in your pocket.
Did you get a standard slide switch or a mini slide switch, the mini switches are pretty small, roughly 1/4x 1/4 x 1/2 w/o panel mount tabs.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mxrdrver on May 29, 2014, 09:11:26 PM
Thanks. I've been lurking around here for a couple weeks. Not wanting to post anything until I've had a chance to read throught the miles and miles of information.

I don't have any switches yet. I was hoping to get away without using one. That's why I was asking about the zener. I'm not too concerned about the mod firing accidentally. My main concern was being able to use the 2A push button switches I have.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 29, 2014, 11:15:53 PM
Its a normally closed switch on pin 1 unless you have model e version
noone buys model e version so nc switch ya need to use it.

the diode you would need would be huge without a mosfet
you need to buy another switch anyway
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 30, 2014, 03:25:47 PM
Hello again what is the best way to make the holes in the hamond die cast aluminum case. Do I just use a dremmel or would a drill be better? And does anyone know the circumference of the holes needed? Just have to drill and way we go
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on May 30, 2014, 03:31:05 PM
Hello again what is the best way to make the holes in the hamond die cast aluminum case. Do I just use a dremmel or would a drill be better? And does anyone know the circumference of the holes needed? Just have to drill and way we go

Drill is always better for clean round holes, Don't have the diameters needed but someone will chime in as this has been the best forum I have found for helpful vapers.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on May 30, 2014, 11:17:45 PM
Single coil or dual? Tried both on a okr and don't know what I like. What are your opinions?  And lastly .6 should be lowest for daily use, yes?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mxrdrver on June 01, 2014, 03:44:32 PM
Ok, finally got the time to sit down and breadboard everything. I'm using an OKR-T/10. It took me a couple hours to figure out how everything hooked in. Since I was using an 2amp push button switch, I opted to use pin#1 remote. Something that I wanted to bring up, was that all of the diagrams I've seen showed power(+)   from battery to pin#2. I used Breaktru's schematic as the basis for my build. Every time I put power to the circuit, the atty would auto-fire without pushing the on/off button. I went round and round with this trying to find the problem. Then, only when I only supplied power to pin#1 did everything work properly. Was I reading the schematic wrong? I could swear that I saw in Breaktru's schematic that power is supplied only to pin #2 when using pin#1. Here's a picture of everything breadboarded.(http://)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on June 01, 2014, 04:40:52 PM
If you used the schematic shown below and it fired without hitting the fire button it sounds like the fire but is not Normally Opened but a Normally Closed switch.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on June 01, 2014, 05:24:10 PM
With Breaktru's schematic and using pin 1 - you need a NC switch and no pull-down resistor.

But it looks like you're using one of E-Switch's 12mm 2A ss switches which is an NO switch.  You'll need a 1K - 4.7K pull-down resistor across pins 1 and 3 to turn the OKR off.  I don't see a pull-down resistor on the breadboard.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on June 01, 2014, 06:01:07 PM
I think the explanation was a bit confusing but looking at the breadboard, Pin 1 is not wired to anything making it like my schematic above. That's why I mentioned the N.O. switch.

If it's a 2A @ 48v switch then it should be good for:
4A @ 24V
8A @ 12V
12A @ 9V
16A @ 6V
Again as I mentioned before, the results stated are not linear but it will suit our needs.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mxrdrver on June 01, 2014, 06:06:18 PM
Ok, I didn't realize they might be normally open. Looking back on the order sheet, they are indeed NO switches. I also picked up several 5A horn style push button switches from MadVapes. Looking back at their description, they don't say if they are NO or NC. I just hooked one of those up, with power to pin#2, and it autofired. ?? I don't know what's going on. All I know, the way I have it hooked up to pin#1 works.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mxrdrver on June 01, 2014, 06:34:53 PM
Now that I switched over to the NC horn style switch, I think I won't use pin#1 after all. Just waiting on a couple 5A fuses and I can get it all installed. Thanks for the help.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on June 01, 2014, 07:37:12 PM
Now that I switched over to the NC horn style switch, I think I won't use pin#1 after all. Just waiting on a couple 5A fuses and I can get it all installed. Thanks for the help.

Pin2 is no pin not nc;  its a  direct on/off since the module will fire with power uninterrupted to pin 2 its the less parts/wires pin lol...
But they do produce a different version module,  version"e"   pin1 will only fire the device with  positive logic regardless if pin 2 is direct wired
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JUICYOHMS on June 04, 2014, 06:22:17 PM
Hello Guys...

Has this or could this chip be used with success in place of the OKRT10?

     Murata LSS-T/10-W12-C  (.6-6v @ 10amps/60watts)
$11.50 ea.
     DigiKey Part# 811-1811-ND  (506 available)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on June 04, 2014, 08:04:29 PM
If you look at the data sheet it says it's an obsolete part;  http://www.murata-ps.com/data/power/lss-t10-w12.pdf   That's always discouraging.

Anyway, looks pretty much the same as the OKR-T/10, maybe just an older version of the same thing.  So yeah, you could probably use it without any problem.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on June 11, 2014, 03:43:45 PM
I would like to use a tactile instead of a slide switch for the voltmeter. Not sure what circuity would be needed to do so.

simpler solution to for what i wanted to do, on-on-off  push button:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/50-0088-00/542PB-ND/935975
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/50-0041-00/529PB-ND/611178
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JUICYOHMS on June 12, 2014, 02:26:58 AM
Hello Guys,

Which is the better pull down resistor to use, and what differences are there with either if any?

I only have a 4.7K ohm on hand, and I noticed some of the build sheets having a 1K ohm?

Also Am I right in understanding that caps are not needed with the T10? And what is the pros/cons of using them?

I have 22uf on hand. Mouser Part# C3225X5R1C226K250AA...Will this be sufficient if I decide to use them?

Cheers-
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on June 12, 2014, 03:52:23 AM
Hello Guys,

Which is the better pull down resistor to use, and what differences are there with either if any?

I only have a 4.7K ohm on hand, and I noticed some of the build sheets having a 1K ohm?

Also Am I right in understanding that caps are not needed with the T10? And what is the pros/cons of using them?

I have 22uf on hand. Mouser Part# C3225X5R1C226K250AA...Will this be sufficient if I decide to use them?

Cheers-

1K draws more idle current than the 4.7K, other than that either one does the job, which is to keep the converter from auto-firing when not pressing the fire switch.

Caps are optional.  Really not needed for the output.  An input cap adds a bit of a buffer and stability, especially when input voltage is on the low side.  I use 22uF input for the OKR.  Use at your option as the converter works fine without them.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JUICYOHMS on June 12, 2014, 05:31:26 AM
Thanks mamu...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on June 12, 2014, 02:13:40 PM
You may have to consider power consumption when using pull up or pull down resistors under 4.7K.  For example, if you're using a 1k pull down with an 8V supply, that's 8mA and 64mW.  8mA can be too high for some tactile switches and 64mW can exceed the power limit for small surface mount resistors.  Not that you would necessarily run into those limitations, just as an example.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JUICYOHMS on June 12, 2014, 04:11:16 PM
Thanks for the extra info CraigHB...That Helps me to understand this better.

Cheers-
Ju-C
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on June 13, 2014, 07:25:28 AM
Can the master switch be moved to the gate of the mosfet and would a pull down/up resistor be needed?

(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/okr-t10-wiring.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: rc3po on June 19, 2014, 10:07:04 PM
I really enjoyed reading & learning from this thread - thanks to Break, Craig, Mamu, and all of yall! ;cheers;
I'm going to build my own Mod now. Hopefully I'll be finished with it next month some time. I'll be sure to post a bunch of pictures. Thanks everybody!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: miskol on June 23, 2014, 05:59:11 AM
Hi guys,

i think there's a mistake with the circuit, the fuse is not used based on the current connection.

the batteries is connected with the fuses, then the Master Switch should be connected with the other end of the fuses, along with the 220 ohm resistor, correct?

sorry if i'm wrong.

(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/okr-t10-wiring.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on June 23, 2014, 07:25:33 AM
oops...  corrected.  I revised that guide the other day based on requests to clarify what ground is and where it goes.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention, miskol!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: miskol on June 23, 2014, 11:53:59 AM
no problem mamu, thanks for your confirmation  :)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: nosmo ke on June 24, 2014, 07:26:36 AM
I want my coils to heat up more quickly. The idea is to hit them hard for so many mS, then drop the power back to normal (6-8W say) so my custards don't burn.

My thought is to put a timed NC relay across the 200R pot. The relay opens at a variable time after the fire button is pressed. Very simple.

My question is whether the T/10 is stable enough to cope with this step change of trim resistance impedance on the fly?

(I'd give it a try right now but am in the midst of moving house.)

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Neon711 on June 24, 2014, 05:05:45 PM
thanks the schm helped me build my first t10
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on June 24, 2014, 11:08:37 PM
I want my coils to heat up more quickly. The idea is to hit them hard for so many mS, then drop the power back to normal (6-8W say) so my custards don't burn.

My thought is to put a timed NC relay across the 200R pot. The relay opens at a variable time after the fire button is pressed. Very simple.

My question is whether the T/10 is stable enough to cope with this step change of trim resistance impedance on the fly?

(I'd give it a try right now but am in the midst of moving house.)

I love this idea.  The pipeline pro does that type of ramping if you want it to.  Really cool for delivering a mixture of delicate flavor profiles like you say a custard..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: gno3545 on June 25, 2014, 12:00:40 AM
Are these schematics the same if I were to to use it as a pass-through instead of batteries?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on June 25, 2014, 05:29:23 AM
Are these schematics the same if I were to to use it as a pass-through instead of batteries?

Yes, but omit the zener and the P-FET as they are not needed and replace the batts with the DC connector.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: gno3545 on June 25, 2014, 05:35:15 AM
thanks mamu
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Neon711 on June 26, 2014, 08:39:10 PM
is the okr t10 pinout the same as the 10a nano raptor???
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Jashe123 on June 26, 2014, 09:22:53 PM
Data sheet shows it's the same as the okr
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Neon711 on June 26, 2014, 09:36:42 PM
Thanks. good to see another Marylander.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: nosmo ke on June 27, 2014, 04:47:53 AM
I love this idea.  The pipeline pro does that type of ramping if you want it to.  Really cool for delivering a mixture of delicate flavor profiles like you say a custard..
I've been asking around and I can't find anyone who's done this - which surprises me as it's simple and cheap. Temperature "profiling" (RVV, RVW)   seems to get good reviews in general. (Not sure about pipeline pro - must read up on it.)  Obviously my idea is not so fancy as digital profiling but I think it may improve the vape experience. I shall give it a go in the winter.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Neon711 on June 29, 2014, 04:00:38 PM
ok so i have lost my bag of ceramic caps. Would a 22uF electrolytic cap be ok to use for an OKR-T10? Thanks for all the great info here. My brain has swelled im sure.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on June 30, 2014, 07:54:53 PM
Ceramics perform a lot better for lower voltage stuff, but yes, you can use an electrolytic if you want.  Though when you look in the data sheet, you'll find they recommend a smaller ceramic in parallel with an electrolytic.  Easier just to to use a higher value ceramic.  In any case additional caps are optional, you don't have to have them.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: zotek on July 02, 2014, 02:11:34 AM
is their any simple guide please? i dont wanna use  FUSE, reverse polarity, battery V check, can someone upload one for me please i just wanna make it simple for my personal use.

thank you.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on July 02, 2014, 04:49:36 AM
is their any simple guide please? i dont wanna use  FUSE, reverse polarity, battery V check, can someone upload one for me please i just wanna make it simple for my personal use.

thank you.

See O.P.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Diasas on July 04, 2014, 11:17:39 PM
I have been reading all of the post here and fixing to start my first OKR mod. I was wondering instead of PTC fuses could you use a regular fuse in place.  I am trying to find out why use one over the other. If I am wrong in thinking this please let me know.

 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: FlameOut on July 05, 2014, 09:11:02 AM
I have been reading all of the post here and fixing to start my first OKR mod. I was wondering instead of PTC fuses could you use a regular fuse in place.  I am trying to find out why use one over the other. If I am wrong in thinking this please let me know.

Sure you can use a regular fuse but in the event of a problem the fuse would have to be replaced. A  PTC fuse is a Resetable Fuse.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on July 05, 2014, 04:28:44 PM
Probably a blade fuse like you see used in automotive stuff would work well.  You can get inline sockets for them.  In that case it would be easy to change, but it's not nearly as convenient and then you have to spend a dollar or something every time you blow a fuse.  However, it's pretty rare I actually get an atomizer short.  Though when it has occurred, it usually happens a few times before I resolve the issue, could end up replacing a handful of fuses.  If you compare the hassle factor (do nothing versus buy and replace fuses) there's really no reason to avoid using a PTC resetable fuse.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on July 07, 2014, 11:15:27 AM
Let's say I get the bare-bones project box up and running, but then want to add fuses, the mosfet, the digital voltage display after the fact

How hard would something like that be?  I imagine you'd have to desolder some things, but couldn't you patch in some others, or is that just shoddy work?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on July 08, 2014, 06:31:23 PM
Just about any amount of rework is possible, but why not just build it the way you want the first time.  If it's a matter of waiting for parts, then wait for parts.  We all have to do that.

Welcome to the forum BTW :)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ray450R on July 08, 2014, 11:48:00 PM
Can someone give me a part number from digikey on 10uF capacitors for a OKR-T10 Build. Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on July 09, 2014, 01:37:00 AM
Can someone give me a part number from digikey on 10uF capacitors for a OKR-T10 Build. Thanks

Do you mean 22uF? If so page 7
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on July 09, 2014, 05:57:46 AM
If you do use a cap for the input, see http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/C3225X5R1C226K250AA/?qs=NRhsANhppD9EOZrmEO6PsQ== (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/C3225X5R1C226K250AA/?qs=NRhsANhppD9EOZrmEO6PsQ==)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ray450R on July 09, 2014, 12:42:20 PM
Ok...Thanks a bunch. One more question. What ptc fuses should I use? There are so many to choose from. Also why would you put them in parallel?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on July 09, 2014, 11:52:50 PM
I have a question, I'm working on a T6 build and is it possible to use one four position slide switch instead of two separate switches. I was looking at this http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G-141S-3011/SW120-ND/9610 but unsure if it could be set up to read the voltage and output on the led screen.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on July 10, 2014, 07:38:20 AM
I have a question, I'm working on a T6 build and is it possible to use one four position slide switch instead of two separate switches. I was looking at this http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G-141S-3011/SW120-ND/9610 but unsure if it could be set up to read the voltage and output on the led screen.

Are you using the slide switch for just the meter? If so, see image. If you want the meter on all the time, don't use a tact sw.

(http://breaktru.com/temp2/dm_tact.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on July 10, 2014, 01:26:18 PM
Are you using the slide switch for just the meter? If so, see image. If you want the meter on all the time, don't use a tact sw.

(http://breaktru.com/temp2/dm_tact.png)

I'm looking to keep it clean and have a limited amount of space, The switch would control all functions. Position 1 would be main power off, Position 2 would read the total power of batteries, Position 3 would read output power and last position would keep main power on but the led screen off.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on July 10, 2014, 06:51:03 PM
See attached.............
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on July 10, 2014, 07:16:55 PM
See attached.............

Thank you and I wish I had your knack for electronics.  :thumbsup:  ;bow;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on July 11, 2014, 02:01:04 AM
I believe the pic is Mamu's If not let me know so I can acknowledge there work.  :rockin smiley: But if I'm reading this right is this the proper wiring setup?



Edited by Breaktru:
Your first drawing is WRONG. So I attached a second drawing which is correct.
 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on July 11, 2014, 08:40:24 AM
Yes the original is by Mamu.
I have attached the correct (2nd drawing) in your previous post.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on July 11, 2014, 01:32:19 PM
Yes the original is by Mamu.
I have attached the correct (2nd drawing) in your previous post.

 ;bow; Thank you this forum is great and thanks to Mamu for her helpful drawings.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ray450R on July 12, 2014, 12:26:56 AM
I have capacitors but they are SMD. How do I know what side is positive? Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on July 12, 2014, 01:19:17 AM
I have capacitors but they are SMD. How do I know what side is positive? Thanks

There should a + on one side or the longer lead is positive.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on July 12, 2014, 12:23:17 PM
SMD capacitors are most commonly ceramic which are not polarized.  You can connect them without regard for plus or minus.

Polarized capacitors can be found in a small SMD package similar to the ceramic ones.  They're usually the aluminum polymer or tantalum polymer types.  Standard tantalums are also commonly found in a small SMD package.

Polarized SMD caps normally have a bar engraved across the case on the positive side.  You'll know if you install a polarized cap backwards, they tend to explode when subjected to reverse polarity.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ray450R on July 14, 2014, 07:33:00 PM
Thanks guys for the help!!! 1 more question. What p - channel mosfet should I use in my build with the okr-t10? Is has to be small for I can fit it in my enclosure.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on July 15, 2014, 08:58:43 AM
If you don't mind making a little host board for one and mounting the part, you can go pretty small, this one would work well;

http://www.vishay.com/docs/62909/si7655adn.pdf

This one would be about the smallest you can go in a leaded package;

http://www.vishay.com/docs/65748/SI4497DY.pdf

Here's one with ESD protection;

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FD/FDS6681Z.pdf


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Ctarno on July 27, 2014, 03:20:12 AM
I really want anyone to make a video about building an okr! I am ready to just throw things out the window! Schematics confuse me! Angry angry angry! Sorry rant over! Have a great night
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: merkez on August 01, 2014, 05:23:02 PM
@Breaktru: Hi, Thanks for this detailed information and schematics as right now I am also working on with OKR-T3 module so hopefully it will be very helpful for me.

printed circuit board assembly (http://www.7pcbassembly.com/turnkey-pcb-assembly.php)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 01, 2014, 07:17:40 PM
Glad the info in this OKR topic has been beneficial.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: improntus on August 05, 2014, 02:02:45 PM
Hi..

If I replace the 220ohm fixed resistor with 200ohm, and the trimpot from 200ohm to 220ohm, what volt. range should i'll get? I do not have the parts to chek by myself and i don't know how to calculate
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 05, 2014, 03:32:40 PM
Hi..

If I replace the 220ohm fixed resistor with 200ohm, and the trimpot from 200ohm to 220ohm, what volt. range should i'll get? I do not have the parts to chek by myself and i don't know how to calculate

Approximately 3.4v to 6.4V
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: improntus on August 05, 2014, 05:20:14 PM
a little out of specs..

Great! thankyou :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JUICYOHMS on August 06, 2014, 05:06:06 AM
Hello All...

What would cause a previously perfectly working OKRT10 to start auto-firing just 1 day after a fresh build ?
I'm using the 4.7k pull down across 1 & 3, 22uf across 2-3...When I disconnect power from pin 1 and just use pushbutton to open/close on pin 2 it works fine as shown in O.P. diagram. I've got another box setup just like this using the 4.7k between 1-3 and it works fine. I also have replaced the 4.7k with another new one & it's still auto firing...I'm confused because it was working perfect, then just started this all on it's own. So to recap, when I disconnect pin 1 and just use pin 2 with pushbutton in between main power lead it works fine.

I'm getting power to the chip fine, and it's sending power out fine, just auto fires when I use pin 1 in the circuit now, & did not have this issue at first.

Thanks in Advance...

Feeling confused because I've built a few functional boxes, and they all work typically first try because I always double-check everything when assembling.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 06, 2014, 05:10:30 PM
JuicyOhms, Perhaps this OKR is a bit temperamental than the others that you have used  :laughing:
As a test: try replacing the 4.7K with a 1K resistor. If that works then go up in value until you find the highest resistance that works successfully. Just note that the lower the resistance the more current drain on the battery.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: JUICYOHMS on August 06, 2014, 05:19:15 PM
TY Breaktru...

Is this the only thing it could be other than a faulty chip pretty much?

Cheers
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on August 08, 2014, 08:31:54 AM
Hello everyone.  Been reading here for the longest and decided to building me an OKR T10 mod. Hope someone may have a solution for me.... Had everything all hooked up and running just fine then somehow I shorted my volt meter out and now the mod doesn't want to fire. Any ideas what it could be? Power is all still there. At one point, I was getting a constant reading out of the 510 (auto firing) but then it was going after readjusting some connection and now nothing happens when I fire. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 08, 2014, 09:01:43 AM
TY Breaktru...

Is this the only thing it could be other than a faulty chip pretty much?

Cheers

Pin 1 to ground (-) will turn off the OKR. Using a resistor from pin 1 to ground reduces the current drain. As per datasheet for On/Off Remote (pin 1): OFF = –0.3 to +0.4 V. max. or ground pin.
Check the voltage on pin 1 and see if it is less than 0.4v. If it's higher the OKR will remain on. What can cause this? A poor solder connection on pin 1 to the resistor and/or resistor to ground which will add to the resistance of the remote on/off control. Or maybe a damaged OKR.
Also use your ohmmeter and measure your 4.7k resistor. Measure the resistor OUT of the circuit. Not connected.
Note: grounding pin 1 will turn off the OKR if you want to test if the OKR is bad.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: spadge3k00 on August 09, 2014, 11:12:40 PM
hi guys, new to the forum and to modding infact but have built a fair few boxes, none quite like you guys have but i have a question regarding the op diagram, i have my favorite pot wich is 220 ohm, how and what does this affect or change? appreciate the input,

btw nice work  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 10, 2014, 08:09:01 AM
hi guys, new to the forum and to modding infact but have built a fair few boxes, none quite like you guys have but i have a question regarding the op diagram, i have my favorite pot wich is 220 ohm, how and what does this affect or change? appreciate the input,

btw nice work  :thumbsup:

Welcome to the forum spadge.

(http://breaktru.com/temp2/okr10_rtrim.png)

Using the chart we find a total of 420 ohms suites most users output voltage needs. (220 ohm fixed resistor + 200 ohm pot)
The lower resistance gives you the high end of the output V range. Like when you zero out the pot and only the fixed resistor is in play.
Maxing the pot plus the fixed resistor in series will give you the low end of the output V range.

The pot will effect the low voltage end of the output voltage range as you increase the resistance. If you use a 220 ohm pot with a 200 ohm fixed resistor you can get the 420 ohm rTrim. Your 420 will give you the low voltage bottom of approximately 3.4V but when the pot is zeroed the hi end is 6.5V output.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: spadge3k00 on August 10, 2014, 09:07:03 AM
Thanks for the quick reply. So am I right in thinkin 0.5 volt is wasted as the chip tops at 6volts so therefore the pot is gud for say 80% of the pots turn. How would I go about adjusting the diagrams resistor to accommodate the 220 ohm pot?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 10, 2014, 11:21:54 AM
If you use a 220 ohm fixed w/ a 220 ohm pot, your high end would be 6V and your low end would be approx 3.25V.
The OKR is not capped at 6V, it will be able to see 6.5V. It's just out of spec and not advisable as per the manufacture.

Note: resistors and pots have + and - tolerance so your result depends on the tolerance of the parts.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: spadge3k00 on August 10, 2014, 02:46:11 PM
Ok cheers. Thanks so much for the help. Will post results in a few days :D
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: davidegee on August 13, 2014, 03:46:51 PM
Thanks for this thread. I put a t10 in a tin and it vape very nicely.  I have 3 more to try and make something a bit prettier in future too!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 13, 2014, 03:57:12 PM
Thanks for this thread. I put a t10 in a tin and it vape very nicely.  I have 3 more to try and make something a bit prettier in future too!

Congrats david. Good for you
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: spadge3k00 on August 13, 2014, 04:45:33 PM
Here's how I got on . much love guys  :thankyou:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 13, 2014, 05:44:39 PM
Well done spadge  :rockin smiley: Congrats on your build  ;cheers;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on August 13, 2014, 07:20:16 PM
Here's how I got on . much love guys  :thankyou:

Single battery???
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: spadge3k00 on August 13, 2014, 07:24:05 PM
2 18350s stacked , really surprised as its lasted me over half a day on 700 mah lol well impressed
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: spadge3k00 on August 13, 2014, 07:29:21 PM
sorry my bad,should of shown more specific, here we go
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on August 14, 2014, 07:03:57 AM
Hey guys, I just wanted to thank everyone that has posted on here since it started. I finished my mod yesterday after much research, trial and error, and  frustration. Currently on the road but will post pictures when I get the chance last. Thank you  so much,  everyone. Especially Breakthru and Mamu and anyone else that posted schematics,  help tips or replies to other's questions. I hope everyone has a very great day!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 14, 2014, 07:35:50 AM
Welcome to the forum Misturbubles. I'm glad this thread has helped.
You have a great day as well
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 14, 2014, 09:30:41 AM
Hey everyone! First off, want to say thank you to everyone on here, I have gained so much knowledge from everyone on here!

Long time reader first time poster! I thought I could get through my entire build without asking for help....but last night proved me wrong.

I finally got everything wired up and put into the box, threw my batteries in, put my trusty tugboat (wrapped at .4 ohms) and went outside to try it out (just in case it blew up and caught fire!)

I started with the pot turned all the way down...took a few hits and it was beautiful. Then I tried to turn it up a bit. Got nothing after this.....

The mod would only work when the pot was at the lowest setting, anything higher than that and I got nothing. I then noticed a funny smell so i took the batteries out and started poking around. The wire connected to the first pin on the pot (and that goes to the ground on the first battery) was completely melted. All the insulation had been fried!


So my question is....if I replace this wire with a higher gauge (i think i used 22 solid core wire) will this fix the issue of melted insulation and a non functional pot? Or do you guys think that the pot is dead and I will only be able to use it at its lowest setting?


Thanks again for any input on this guys!! You're  my only hope!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 14, 2014, 09:34:08 AM
Oh and I'm using a schematic similar to the Duke and Cujo's mods. I'll find the link if its needed!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 14, 2014, 09:48:36 AM
Welcome itsmedant.

Not sure what the duke and cujo schematic consists of.

No, replacing the wire with a heavier gauge will not fix it. 22 ga is fine.
Sounds like a short. Double check your wiring and compare it carefully to the schematic.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 14, 2014, 09:52:33 AM
Would a short cause the pot to not work?

I'm going to scan through everything tonight and see what happened. I also noticed on the battery in that sled, there were some burn marks on the battery....I wonder if the battery shorted in the sled and caused the entire issue.


So many variables!!

Thanks for the reply!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 14, 2014, 10:17:37 AM
http://imgur.com/psiVulh

This is the schem I followed.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 14, 2014, 03:42:33 PM
I have another question that may lead to the solution!

I am using the fat daddy spring loaded 510 connector. I was looking through pictures of other peoples builds and found this picture of a dna 30 build using the same 510 connector. http://i.imgur.com/pglXS4S.jpg

Notice the grounding tab is bent up so that the wire isn't touching the body of the mod. Mine isn't....meaning the wire connected to that part is in contact with the entire body of the mod.

Is that a bad thing? I figured it would just add to the ground, but would this be the cause of the short?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on August 14, 2014, 07:05:39 PM

Is that a bad thing? I figured it would just add to the ground, but would this be the cause of the short?

No as you surmised it is the ground, But if any wire or lead that is positive has touched the walls then that will lead to a short.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 14, 2014, 07:28:27 PM
That is one poor laid out schematic  cant_believe:

Now you know why it's important to use fuses.
Something is shorted. Is the battery sled secured from moving around? Is the 510 pos and neg free of a short? Triple check ALL wiring.

Do you know where it's required to put heavy wire and light wire? The schematic you used can confuse you as it shows  heavy current wires tapped into a light current wires.

Follow mamu's diagram HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,907.msg13560.html#msg13560)
Also she substituted the 1K for a 4.7K resistor because of current drain.
I personally don't use the on/off remote pin.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 14, 2014, 10:01:49 PM
I think I'm just going to rip the entire thing apart and start over following the schems on this thread.

As far as the wire thickness goes. Can I use 22 gauge for the entire build or do I need to use something higher for the power and ground?

I'm about to order some of the pots that come in the ranger okr box...I have broken 2 of the other ones (Bourns thumb wheels) trying to get them mounted....May try again though!!

Thanks again for all of your help with this, I really wanna get this thing up and and running soon!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 15, 2014, 07:12:58 AM
I think I'm just going to rip the entire thing apart and start over following the schems on this thread.
The OKR may have been damaged.

As far as the wire thickness goes. Can I use 22 gauge for the entire build or do I need to use something higher for the power and ground?
For the heavy current, 20 gauge or better.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 15, 2014, 09:02:41 AM
Yea i was worried about the chip being damaged. If it is...the rebuild will be good practice until another one is back in stock.

Everywhere I've looked so far as been out of stock! These things are hard to get your hands on sometimes.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 11:39:03 AM
quick question...

build 3 OKRs so far (more like 5) and they were working great.  my brother broke the pot from over torqueing the thing and I had to completely replace it.  since I built the okr in a 1590g, I pretty much had to remove everything to get to the pot to replace it.  once I put in a new pot and put everything back together, the voltage drop under load is considerably worse. 

how could I go about testing what is actually causing such a large drop in voltage under load? (volt meter I assume)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 15, 2014, 12:04:34 PM
So I just ripped everything apart and the okr looks fine...no scorch marks and it doesn't smell like a burnt out chip. I know there is still a chance it's damaged though.

But I found d something g that I think may be the problem. When I took the pot out, I noticed that underneath the actual thumbwheel, some of the epoxy got under there and covered the contacts. I know this is the reason the pot wouldn't work except on its lowest setting, but do you guys think this could have caused the short?

It's a long shot but I'm hoping it's the case!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 15, 2014, 12:49:49 PM
quick question...

build 3 OKRs so far (more like 5) and they were working great.  my brother broke the pot from over torqueing the thing and I had to completely replace it.  since I built the okr in a 1590g, I pretty much had to remove everything to get to the pot to replace it.  once I put in a new pot and put everything back together, the voltage drop under load is considerably worse. 

how could I go about testing what is actually causing such a large drop in voltage under load? (volt meter I assume)

Assuming that your batteries are good and that the wires for heavy current are sufficient, I would suspect a cold solder connection.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 12:53:16 PM
Assuming that your batteries are good and that the wires for heavy current are sufficient, I would suspect a cold solder connection.

I used all 20 gauge for all these builds.  mine shows 5.85 volts under load at about .6?.  His device was showing 5.01 under the same load (same atty) after I fixed his device

he was using the LG 35 amp batteries and were fully charged.  ill have to recheck those solder connections but they felt really strong
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 15, 2014, 12:58:16 PM
I used all 20 gauge for all these builds.  mine shows 5.85 volts under load at about .6?.  His device was showing 5.01 under the same load (same atty) after I fixed his device

he was using the LG 35 amp batteries and were fully charged.  ill have to recheck those solder connections but they felt really strong

What is your bros output voltage with NO load?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 01:08:33 PM
What is your bros output voltage with NO load?

that I have not checked

but I never checked mine either.  I'll try to do that next time he comes over
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 15, 2014, 01:57:47 PM
A voltage drop is the difference of your output voltage with NO load and an output voltage with a load.
Your problem may be the output voltage low to high range which is a formulation of your Trim circuit. Fixed resistor and pot resistance.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 02:10:46 PM
A voltage drop is the difference of your output voltage with NO load and an output voltage with a load.
Your problem may be the output voltage low to high range which is a formulation of your Trim circuit. Fixed resistor and pot resistance.

so you think it could also be an issue of the pot + resistor.  I soldered the resistor right to the pot, then soldered the lead to the resistor...

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 02:23:20 PM
The resistor doesn't have be ran a certain direction, right?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 15, 2014, 02:26:12 PM
Unless a voltage reading of the output without a load is taken, we won't know if there is an actual voltage drop.

You will have to make an ohm reading with the resistor plus pot disconnected from Pin 5 and ground. Read resistance with pot in both max and min positions.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 02:28:38 PM
Unless a voltage reading of the output without a load is taken, we won't know if there is an actual voltage drop.

You will have to make an ohm reading with the resistor plus pot disconnected from Pin 5 and ground. Read resistance with pot in both max and min positions.

fair enough

I was just wondering about the other possibility as the connections I had to resolder seemed better than the first time. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 08:06:25 PM
Just got the chance to test my brothers okr.   Its showing 5.4 volts under NO load
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on August 15, 2014, 08:21:36 PM
Just got the chance to test my brothers okr.   Its showing 5.4 volts under NO load

What trim resistor and potentiometer are you using?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 15, 2014, 08:27:21 PM
200 ohm pot, 220 resistor.  Exact parts in my box mod (made both within a week of each other)

His build was working much better until I had to replace the pot he broke
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 16, 2014, 07:56:02 AM
Your 220 ohm fixed resistor may be way over tolerance or not actually a 220 ohm resistor. What tolerance value did you use?
And... did you measure it like I suggested?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: kurrptsenate on August 16, 2014, 08:13:58 AM
Its a 1/4 watt 220 ohm 2% vishay metal film resistor from mouser.  I didn't get the opportunity to measure the pot plus resistor like you requested.  I didn't want to take his device apart again.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 16, 2014, 08:30:54 AM
To get a 5.4V on max output, the fixed resistor would be 245 ohms. That's more than 10% over. Also check for a cold solder which will add to the trim circuit resistance.
What's the full output range? Min to Max.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 16, 2014, 02:37:00 PM
Do you guys think a bad pot could have caused my short. I looked at everything and nothing else really looked bad
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on August 16, 2014, 03:00:35 PM
Do you guys think a bad pot could have caused my short. I looked at everything and nothing else really looked bad

Only if the non-ground leg of the pot was touching any metal or solder from another connection.

Double-check all connections like breaktru said and make sure no positive connection, including solder at the connection, is touching any metal or touching a ground joint.  Double-check the positive and negative atty connections to make sure they are completely isolated and also make sure the insulator is intact isolating the positive connection from the negative connection.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 17, 2014, 01:41:39 AM
 scared:
The middle leg of the trimmer should be wired to ground.  The resister is wired to one of the outer legs - need to check which leg turns clockwise and which one will turn the voltage counterclockwise.  You want to use the leg that turns the voltage from low to high (clockwise).

Either cut off the unused leg, or tie it to ground.

I was reading through everything in this topic and came across this....I was also looking at my box and realize I had the ground connected to one of the outside legs and the resistor to the middle....

Think that's the cause of the short? It was that piece of wire that got fried!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on August 17, 2014, 02:53:03 PM
Ok. Im tired of bangin my head on my desk in confusion. Im using breatru's schematic for the okr10. Got it breadboarded with everything going the right way...(seemed like a good idea to test befor soldering.) 2 efest 26650, 3a pb, 220ohm res( one leg to okr and the other to outer leg of pot) 200ohm thumbwheel and two othere trimmer pots...just square instead of round. Iv even pulled everything apart and redid the breadboard. The trouble is I can only get .6 volts out of the okr. On the pot its a single turn thumbwheel. The other s are five turn. Doesnt matter what way I turn thm I still o ly have .6 volts. Any thoughts of what im doing wrong? raged:
Yep. I feel like an idiot... coler coded the wires so I wouldnt get them mixed up...and still did...twice.
On the bright note..its workin.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on August 17, 2014, 03:13:29 PM
scared:
I was reading through everything in this topic and came across this....I was also looking at my box and realize I had the ground connected to one of the outside legs and the resistor to the middle....

Think that's the cause of the short? It was that piece of wire that got fried!!

It could be since as you say that wire is fried, but it shouldn't really matter if ground is wired to middle leg or outer leg.  I always wire ground to the wiper (middle leg), but I've seen some wire ground to an outer leg and trim resistor to middle leg with no reports of issues. 

If that wire is fried it must have been either touching another connection or solder blob or something that it shouldn't be touching.

Ok. Im tired of bangin my head on my desk in confusion. Im using breatru's schematic for the okr10. Got it breadboarded with everything going the right way...(seemed like a good idea to test befor soldering.) 2 efest 26650, 3a pb, 220ohm res( one leg to okr and the other to outer leg of pot) 200ohm thumbwheel and two othere trimmer pots...just square instead of round. Iv even pulled everything apart and redid the breadboard. The trouble is I can only get .6 volts out of the okr. On the pot its a single turn thumbwheel. The others are five turn. Doesnt matter what way I turn thm I still o ly have .6 volts. Any thoughts of what im doing wrong? raged:

0.6 volts is the default output of the converter when no resistor or pot is attached to pin 5.

You say you have one outer leg of the pot wired to a resistor and the other end of the resistor leg wired to the OKR (make sure it's pin 5), but do you have the middle leg of the pot wired to ground?  And did you make sure that one leg of the resistor connects with pin 5 on the breadboard and that the other leg of the resistor is in a different slot not continuity with the leg connected to pin 5?

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on August 17, 2014, 03:20:51 PM
Yea mamu. I didnt know that the default output was .6 That woulld of clued me in that id screwed up...twice. it was the pot wired to pin four instead of pin five. So now I have the basic idea and I can stick a voltmeter and low voltage cutoff on it. Ty mamu for you quick reply. Hopfully ill get the behemoth polished up soon and post a pic. Ty again. ;cheers;
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: rrtwister on August 17, 2014, 06:15:48 PM
scared:
I was reading through everything in this topic and came across this....I was also looking at my box and realize I had the ground connected to one of the outside legs and the resistor to the middle....

Think that's the cause of the short? It was that piece of wire that got fried!!

The trim circuit is all related to ground (-). The only way that I can see a wire on the pot burning is somewhere in the trim circuit is touching or wired to a positive (+) point.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 17, 2014, 09:44:57 PM
Well everyone, I think I finally figured out what caused my short. When resoldering my chip I noticed the resistor between pin 1 and 3 was touching the wire soldered on pin 4...at least I assume it was.


I made sure it wasn't this time!!!

Thanks for all the help, hopefully I'll have all of this done tomorrow and can come back with success instead of more questions!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on August 17, 2014, 11:53:21 PM
Ok I have every thing test wired and the unit fires and reads battery power but will not read power that the atty is firing at, I'm using one of those .28 micro led read out with the two wires. any ideas ? Also the only things I thing I changed was to wire the negative center pin and outer pin as one on the pot as its a 3 leads and a 5.6 zener on pin 1 the purple wire.

(http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=907.0;attach=3124;image)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on August 18, 2014, 01:51:50 AM
I think I found the problem, It's late and will let you know how it went.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 18, 2014, 10:32:07 PM
So I wired everything back up tonight and when I put the second battery in it sparked and nothing worked. 

Do you think this is due to me possibly damaging the chip on my first short??

I double checked all the wiring and my connections and they followed mamus diagram perfectly, I even coated the connections with liquid electrical tape to make sure nothing was shorting.

I'm starting to think I'm not cut out for this build!!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on August 18, 2014, 10:41:23 PM
Got my meter reading, Boy a color schematic makes all the difference in the wold tracking problems as I forgot to wire a trace to one of the wire leads. The only problem is when I cranked up the voltage to full the meter went crazy, I just grabbed a atty from my collection to test and when I ohm-ed it was .35  :facepalm: and anything over 4 volts was causing the meter to freak as I was way over the watt limits. fainting: So play safe and check you ohm's and ohm's calculator first.

Now the hard part.....Squeezing it all in the case!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 19, 2014, 12:04:46 PM
Just ordered the fuses Mamu was talking about in her awesome write up about fuses....and a new breadboard.

I'm going to rip everything out (again) and wire it up on a breadboard exactly how I did it in the box and see if I can figure out whats going on and where my skill level runs out!!!

Hopefully I'll have some good news to report back to you guys in a few days
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 19, 2014, 12:43:49 PM
Another question....where do you guys usually hide these fuses in the box? I'm running out of room in this thing!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on August 19, 2014, 10:47:46 PM
Another question....where do you guys usually hide these fuses in the box? I'm running out of room in this thing!!

What enclosure are you using? It depends on your layout. Do you have a picture of your current progress?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 19, 2014, 10:54:11 PM
What enclosure are you using? It depends on your layout. Do you have a picture of your current progress?

Right now everything is removed. I've decided since I've had such bad luck in the 1590g, I'm going to put it in this huge enclosure just to get it working. Once I get it working, I'll work on getting it back into the 1590. I'm still trying to figure out why it sparked when I put the second battery in. Any thoughts? I double checked the wiring afterwards and it was all done correctly
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 20, 2014, 11:06:26 PM
Alright guys, still have no idea what caused the first short but I have completed my build and it works!

I did the first schematic, so nothing special. I'm going to try and add everything else later.

Thanks for all the help!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on August 28, 2014, 12:43:07 AM
Just finished my otr-t10 build. Id like to thank breaktru, mamu, and creig for doing the groundwork and all the support youall have done. I couldnt have done it you guys. :rockin smiley: it has two 26650's 3500mwh and the standard layout of the OP.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 28, 2014, 07:40:00 AM
Just finished my otr-t10 build. Id like to thank breaktru, mamu, and creig for doing the groundwork and all the support youall have done. I couldnt have done it you guys. :rockin smiley: it has two 26650's 3500mwh and the standard layout of the OP.

Super!
Congrats Rigure  :beer-toast:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on August 28, 2014, 07:42:43 AM
So digikey is out of motr okr10,s can u point me in the right direction for the naos raptor?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 28, 2014, 07:51:13 AM
So digikey is out of motr okr10,s can u point me in the right direction for the naos raptor?

See: Naos Raptor 20A (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=16&y=10&lang=en&site=us&keywords=NSR020A0X43Z)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on August 28, 2014, 08:17:40 AM
Thats a big jump from a simple okr build....but im game. Why not...if nothing else I could make a funny "this is how you blister you lip" video...lol freaked_out:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 28, 2014, 12:16:01 PM
There's a 10 amp version of the raptor on digikey. Goes to 60 watts, is the same pin out as the okr, and 2 bucks cheaper!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on August 28, 2014, 01:25:41 PM
There's a 10 amp version of the raptor on digikey. Goes to 60 watts, is the same pin out as the okr, and 2 bucks cheaper!

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NQR010A0X4Z/555-1161-ND/2270975

even cheaper at sager

http://www.sager.com/nqr010a0x4z-4650455.html
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: bamanerd on August 31, 2014, 05:34:38 PM
Hi all,

I'm fairly new to the forum, so I thought I'd introduce myself before I begin my project. I've been vaping for just over a year now, and haven't touched a cigarette since  :thumbsup: I've been using a mech mod for a few months now, and I've recently been bitten by the "I wanna build a box mod" bug. It really takes hold of you, huh?

I'm a bit of a tech nerd. I work on computers and networks for a living, and have been tearing things apart and building stuff since I was a kid. I just love the stuff. I took electronics at Trade School, while in high school some 15 years ago, so I have a basic understanding of DC circuitry. What better hobby than combining vaping with electronics?!

I have a lot of parts on the way. I may build a couple different mods, but I think the first will be the OKR-T10.  I've read this thread from front to back, along with a few others including the OKL2-T20 by Mamu. I really want to say thanks to you guys (and gal) for all of the time and effort you put into building these things, and helping others along their bumpy roads of mod making. I've seen some of the stuff Craig does on other forums, but I love the way you all bounce ideas off of one another here. It makes for a great learning environment.

I look forward to getting started, and diving into the action. I will try and exhaust all possibilities before asking too many questions. I will post pics of the progress and final product, since I know that Breaktru loves for the members to post. Hopefully I'll get to the minimum number of posts pretty quickly, so that I can start my own thread.

Thanks for everything you guys do! Keep up the great work, and good luck to all that are working on their own projects!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 31, 2014, 05:52:40 PM
Hi and welcome to the forum bamanerd.
Nice to read your intro into the ecig world and background. Yeah when the modding bug bites it bites hard.

We're here to help. We have a great bunch of people on this forum that I'm sure will jump in if ever help is needed.

Good luck w/ your build and keep us posted.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on August 31, 2014, 06:06:05 PM
Does anyone have a drilling template for boxes? Or at least know how to make one??

I'm going to try and go down one more side to a 1590b in a few days! Got all of my parts ready!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on August 31, 2014, 07:52:28 PM
When I get around to it, I can post some blank templates with center lines for the 1590a, 1590b, 1590g, and 1550p. I used a free 2d cad program Qcad to make these. Hammond Manufacturing has 2d & 3d autocad files on their site.

(http://i.imgur.com/vDLgnE8.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/7ZxiU7V.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Q0MfI2U.jpg)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 31, 2014, 08:26:49 PM
When I get around to it, I can post some blank templates with center lines for the 1590a, 1590b, 1590g, and 1550p. I used a free 2d cad program Qcad to make these. Hammond Manufacturing has 2d & 3d autocad files on their site.

Wow! that's great David
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 01, 2014, 01:01:43 AM
Those are awesome!! I was trying to make them with sketchup. It was printing issues I kept running into!

Those screen cut outs look flawless!! How do you get them so clean? I did my first one tonight and it's about 2-3mm too wide. Now I gotta figure out how to fill in that gap!

Any ideas?? I saw this guy (cajmod) and he uses some sort of tinted screen protector, has anyone out there seen this or know what it is?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on September 01, 2014, 01:05:11 AM
I havent seen his but I would think that if you cut out a piect of clear 3mm plexi to fit you could just attach your vmeter to the inside of it.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on September 01, 2014, 02:35:48 AM
Limo/lens/window tint film. Phone screen protectors can also be used.

(http://i.imgur.com/4LnwP5P.png)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CCSD5U0/
(http://i.imgur.com/tuWm2i9.jpg)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CMCMN6/
(http://i.imgur.com/MR6WdXH.jpg)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088HRZR8/
(http://i.imgur.com/Jld0r0t.png)

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 01, 2014, 04:47:27 AM
You can use a 3D printed voltmeter bezel.  I like it for the finished look it gives my mods - and also if I happen to muck up the cutout I don't have to start over or lose a case for it as the bezel covers imperfections in the cutout.

This is my voltmeter bezel design shown in the pic, but bapgood sells his voltmeter bezel design at shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=Volt+Meter+Bezels&s=0 (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=Volt+Meter+Bezels&s=0) - both 0.28" and 0.36" voltmeter sizes.

I also use Rear Window Tint 20% Limo Black to cover the voltmeter (bought at AutoZone).  Sometimes I use Kapton tape to cover the voltmeter, depends on the look I want.

(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/avani5.jpg)



Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 01, 2014, 04:53:54 AM

(http://i.imgur.com/Jld0r0t.png)

All your mods are awesome, David - but this one is totally gorgeous with what you've done with the finish and the perfect cutouts.  That had to have taken quite a bit of time, but well worth the results you got - absolutely perfect!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 01, 2014, 02:32:21 PM
Yea David, that mod is gorgeous!! I can only hope to have something look that great!

One question for you, what pot are you using? I've been trying to find one that is 200ohm that has an actual knob!!

Once again, you're work is now my inspiration! It's amazing!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 01, 2014, 04:23:52 PM
(http://imgur.com/vRs0kcb)
(http://imgur.com/e9akRzB)
Here's the progress so far on my 2nd box!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on September 01, 2014, 04:28:33 PM
Thank you mamu & itsmedant.

The potentiometer is 470 ohm:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P16SNP471MAB15/P16SNP-470-ND/3430484
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Sfernice/P16SNP471MAB15/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtC25l1F4XBU5I3Ctbk2GP1LXVYEpmByWs=

I've looked and looked for a 200 ohm with a knob. There isn't much out there. But I did find this, a trimmer with a knob. Look at the data sheet, Mouser's image isn't showing the knob:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3386F-1-201TLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvygUB3GLcD7swPUEOakrxno2Xv5NDoEog=
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3386F-1-201TLF/3386F-1-201TLF-ND/2536921

It should look very similar to the trimmer used in this mod:
(http://i.imgur.com/2wU7C8N.jpg)

Another option is piecing together a pot, shaft and knob:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PT10MV10-201A2020virtualkey53100000virtualkey531-PT10MV-200

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Piher/5116NEI-BLACK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuiwDVLTMm01a5D8EB%252bj%252b9LbO%2fxf%2fy6RG4%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Eagle-Plastic-Devices/450-4761/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuiwDVLTMm01an1wsjHLopMsWL%2fb9ZyLjc%3d

(http://i.imgur.com/2EIeWQj.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/GJzmfkg.jpg)


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on September 01, 2014, 04:32:26 PM
(http://imgur.com/vRs0kcb)
(http://imgur.com/e9akRzB)
Here's the progress so far on my 2nd box!

Fixed

(http://i.imgur.com/vRs0kcb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/e9akRzB.jpg)

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 01, 2014, 05:09:05 PM
David , which pot is that? I have been trying to find one just like that!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 01, 2014, 05:50:19 PM
Thanks for fixing my pictures! What do ya think of it so far?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on September 01, 2014, 06:13:19 PM
Layout, holes and cutouts all look nice.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 01, 2014, 06:16:26 PM
Sorry I didn't see you posted that,  Dant. Which pot is that?



Also, if anyone could help me please,  I'm working on my second mod but I can't seem to find out why it's not firing. Everything is wired right. Any suggestions on what to check?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 01, 2014, 07:23:01 PM
Sorry I didn't see you posted that,  Dant. Which pot is that?

Also, if anyone could help me please,  I'm working on my second mod but I can't seem to find out why it's not firing. Everything is wired right. Any suggestions on what to check?

The first thing I would do is put a meter on the input of the board and see if you are reading voltage under load.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 01, 2014, 07:39:48 PM
The first thing I would do is put a meter on the input of the board and see if you are reading voltage under load.

Ok so I took off the button and went straight to pin 2 with power. Connected positive of meter to ground of chip, negative of meter to negative of the batteries (completing circuit, right) and I'm getting the right voltage of both batteries. How would you recommend I check it, if you would do so different?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 01, 2014, 09:46:48 PM
Voltmeter neg to pin 3 and voltmeter pos to pin 2. Check without load and then with load of atty.
If there is no drop of voltage w/ load then move meter pos to pin 4
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 02, 2014, 03:52:52 AM
Sorry I didn't see you posted that,  Dant. Which pot is that?


http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TT-Electronics/93PR200LF/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhyn2zzW2wscJ%252brghhA6JaHey6alCLvOaWUlvRjQXEVoQ%3d%3d

They are always out of stock! I just ordered 6 of them with my last order from mouser, got everything else last month....just got these last week! Looks like they are out of stock again. I suggest just putting an order in and then being surprised when they show up!

Great thing about mouser, when you order alot from them and one thing is out of stock, they usually give you really good and cheap shipping for that out of stock product. My first package took a week to get here. Once the pots shipped they got there in 3 days!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on September 02, 2014, 03:37:25 PM
Ok, so I was wondering just how high I could take my okrt10. I know its rated for 50 watts, but somewhere in the datasheets it says max of 19 amps(correct me if I'm wrong). So I stuck in a .24 dual coil, an set it at 4.5 volts.so again correct me if im wrong, thats (4.5x4.5=20.25) / .24=84.375 watts? cant_believe:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 02, 2014, 08:20:24 PM
Ok, so I was wondering just how high I could take my okrt10. I know its rated for 50 watts, but somewhere in the datasheets it says max of 19 amps(correct me if I'm wrong). So I stuck in a .24 dual coil, an set it at 4.5 volts.so again correct me if im wrong, thats (4.5x4.5=20.25) / .24=84.375 watts? cant_believe:

The max current output is 10A. 19A is the "Current Limit Inception". I don't exactly know how it works but.........
Current limit inception is defined as:
the point at which the full-power output voltage falls below the specified tolerance.
If the load current, being drawn from the converter, is signifi cant enough, the unit will go into a short circuit condition.

The OKR will cap at 10A or 50W. To know better, take an amperage reading in series with your atty load. Ohms law is not relevant because of the limitation of the module.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on September 03, 2014, 12:21:29 AM

The OKR will cap at 10A or 50W. To know better, take an amperage reading in series with your atty load. Ohms law is not relevant because of the limitation of the module.
Allright. So heres a noob question...howdo I take a reading?
From the top posts of the atty?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on September 03, 2014, 03:49:21 AM
Rigure if you do not have a really high end meter most will only do 10amps

but its super easy just make a series connection placing the meter in between the atomizer and the 510 connection

This is how I do mine

Rudimentary picture:

Disclaimer: if you try to measure over 10 amps or above your meters amps capacity it will either blow your meter to bits or blow an internal  fuse.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 03, 2014, 02:27:58 PM
You can use a 3D printed voltmeter bezel.  I like it for the finished look it gives my mods - and also if I happen to muck up the cutout I don't have to start over or lose a case for it as the bezel covers imperfections in the cutout.

This is my voltmeter bezel design shown in the pic, but bapgood sells his voltmeter bezel design at shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=Volt+Meter+Bezels&s=0 (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=Volt+Meter+Bezels&s=0) - both 0.28" and 0.36" voltmeter sizes.

I also use Rear Window Tint 20% Limo Black to cover the voltmeter (bought at AutoZone).  Sometimes I use Kapton tape to cover the voltmeter, depends on the look I want.

(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/avani5.jpg)

Do you have access to the STL file from that 3d design? I just got a 3d printer and I would love to try and make one!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Mandar715 on September 03, 2014, 05:13:52 PM
Hello all,

Not new to the forum been following the great builds and helpful information that you all provide, without this forum I would've never been to build my DNA30/SX-350 box mods but this will be my first post. I'm just getting into building my first okr-T/10 box mod and had a question does it matter what wattage is used for each resistor on the okr-T/10 they have 1/4 Watt all the way up to 2 Watts example 220 Ohm 1/4 watt and 220 Ohm 2 Watt.

Thanks..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 03, 2014, 07:12:15 PM
Hello all,

Not new to the forum been following the great builds and helpful information that you all provide, without this forum I would've never been to build my DNA30/SX-350 box mods but this will be my first post. I'm just getting into building my first okr-T/10 box mod and had a question does it matter what wattage is used for each resistor on the okr-T/10 they have 1/4 Watt all the way up to 2 Watts example 220 Ohm 1/4 watt and 220 Ohm 2 Watt.

Thanks..

Glad to see you posting.
A 1/4 watt will be fine. You can go as low as 1/10 of a watt. Use a low tolerance rating. A 0.05% is recommended for accuracy but 1% will do.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Mandar715 on September 03, 2014, 07:45:59 PM
Break Thank you
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 03, 2014, 11:28:27 PM
Do you have access to the STL file from that 3d design? I just got a 3d printer and I would love to try and make one!

Check thingiverse.com I saw some modding stuff - search voltmeter or volt meter or maybe it's bezel it's been a while since I saw one there.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 04, 2014, 09:24:38 AM
Check thingiverse.com I saw some modding stuff - search voltmeter or volt meter or maybe it's bezel it's been a while since I saw one there.

I found one for the smaller digits....and a customize-able one, time to start playing around with that one to see if I can get it to the right size! Thanks again!

Oh my magnets got here last night, going to mount them in the new box today! Hopefully I'll have time to wire everything up and get it working. Just have to do this whole "job" thing today. hahaha
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 04, 2014, 02:24:27 PM
Hey guys, seeking more help.  So I have connected up my okr to check voltage. I'm getting 8.2v across pin 2 and 3. When I check pin 4 I get .6 then it drops off. Nothing is connected to the chip other than power. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 04, 2014, 02:25:50 PM
Just noticed I didn't ask my question. I meant to ask: is this normal?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 04, 2014, 02:45:17 PM
 I noticed I was checking incorrectly. I'm not getting a reading across 2 and 3 but getting 8.2v across 2 and 4. Is this normal?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: improntus on September 04, 2014, 03:19:58 PM
Hi!
 
I have an on-off-on slide switch 6a 125v with 3 legs. I want to use it on my okr-t10 mod this way:

on: mod power on and voltmeter showing batt. volt.
off: mod off
on: mod power on and voltmeter showing imput volt.

I wonder if some one could tell me if its possible with this switch.

Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on September 05, 2014, 06:35:54 PM
This is for a DPDT on-off-on

On (Position 1) - Fire switch connected, battery voltage shown

Off (Position 2) - Fire switch disconnected, voltmeter off

On (Position 3) - Fire switch connected, output voltage shown when fired

(http://i.imgur.com/93pWFnH.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 05, 2014, 07:26:23 PM
I noticed I was checking incorrectly. I'm not getting a reading across 2 and 3 but getting 8.2v across 2 and 4. Is this normal?

Check your wiring for an error. Carefully identify the boards pin numbers.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 06, 2014, 12:23:53 AM
I checked to make sure I wasn't talking crazy, lol. Vin to Ground didn't give me a reading. Vin to Vout gave me 8.2v.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: bamanerd on September 06, 2014, 01:26:34 PM
Happy Saturday everyone.

So... I've been playing the "waiting for parts" game for the last two weeks, and I only have a few hairs left to pull at this point.... I found out today that my OKR didn't ship with the rest of the order, even though it was listed as in stock when I placed the order (frustration supreme). So I sent them a nice little email, and kindly told them to keep it (MCM Electronics Parented by Farnell).

I'm going to order some boards today, so hopefully I'll be building by next weekend. I have a question, though. DigiKey has the following two 60 watt Raptors listed, and I was hoping that someone could tell me the difference between the "Power Module" and the "Converter." They look nearly identical on paper. Are they just from a different LOT, or are they actually different parts?

Power Module http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NQR010A0X4Z/555-1161-ND/2270975 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NQR010A0X4Z/555-1161-ND/2270975)

Converter http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NSR010A0X4Z/555-1132-ND/1825125 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NSR010A0X4Z/555-1132-ND/1825125)

Also.... Since the Pin-out is the same, and the loads are nearly identical, would the schematic be any different from the OKR-T/10? As far as the ratings of the components and such? I still plan to build the OKR-T/10, but I thought I'd order one of these to tinker with. I hope this isn't considered "off-topic" for the thread. I'm just wondering if the OKR schematic would be viable for this Raptor.

Side Note: I've thrown together a nice little mechanical box out of pure boredom. The damned thing hits great. I might actually keep it. I used a small 4x2x1 box from Radio Smack, 18G wire, a 3A@125VAC NO PB, a red LED with a 470ohm res, a single Keystone sled, and a FatDaddy 510.
Excuse the ugliness... I never intended for it to even be... it just kinda happened. I did take extra care in the wiring and soldering. I heat shrink wrapped everything and made sure that IF something came loose, it wouldn't touch anything it shouldn't. I don't think anything will come loose, though. I soldered everything quite well, and made sure that there is no tension on any of the solder joints. The "S" curve in the hot-wire to the atty is to compensate for the movement from the spring-loaded pin.

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/Snypercell/Vaping/IMG_20140905_151837_zps61be1930.jpg) (http://s64.photobucket.com/user/Snypercell/media/Vaping/IMG_20140905_151837_zps61be1930.jpg.html)


(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/Snypercell/Vaping/IMG_20140905_210706_zpsaba46d31.jpg) (http://s64.photobucket.com/user/Snypercell/media/Vaping/IMG_20140905_210706_zpsaba46d31.jpg.html)

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/Snypercell/Vaping/IMG_20140905_210800_zps9471812a.jpg) (http://s64.photobucket.com/user/Snypercell/media/Vaping/IMG_20140905_210800_zps9471812a.jpg.html)

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/Snypercell/Vaping/IMG_20140905_230816_zps0d6ed7e8.jpg) (http://s64.photobucket.com/user/Snypercell/media/Vaping/IMG_20140905_230816_zps0d6ed7e8.jpg.html)

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: bamanerd on September 06, 2014, 04:31:59 PM
Well, the OKR-T/10 is oos everywhere. I was going to order a couple 60 Watt Raptors to play with, but I went with the 120 Watt Raptor. I only ordered one for now, but I probably should've gotten a few before they sell out again, so I may pick up a few more.

I still want to build an OKR or three, so I'll keep a check on stock. Until then... I guess I'll be moving this to Mamu's Raptor thread. Good luck everyone with your OKR builds!!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 06, 2014, 04:42:46 PM
Well, the OKR-T/10 is oos everywhere. I was going to order a couple 60 Watt Raptors to play with, but I went with the 120 Watt Raptor. I only ordered one for now, but I probably should've gotten a few before they sell out again, so I may pick up a few more.

I still want to build an OKR or three, so I'll keep a check on stock. Until then... I guess I'll be moving this to Mamu's Raptor thread. Good luck everyone with your OKR builds!!

Why not go with the PTR08100W. They upped the specs from 50W to 55W and have gone down in price from 19.95 to 11.88
I have built many mods w/ this module.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: bamanerd on September 06, 2014, 04:54:37 PM
Why not go with the PTR08100W.

Nice. I'll check it out.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 07, 2014, 02:04:59 AM
Please help. Got a new chip, had everything set up and now only getting a reading of .0 to .3 from Vout. I have a 100uf 10v cap across 2 and 3, another from 4 to 3. 220 ohm resistor on 5 to 200 pot. Any suggestions?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on September 07, 2014, 02:31:21 AM
Please help. Got a new chip, had everything set up and now only getting a reading of .0 to .3 from Vout. I have a 100uf 10v cap across 2 and 3, another from 4 to 3. 220 ohm resistor on 5 to 200 pot. Any suggestions?

Do you have the polarity of the caps running in the right direction?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 07, 2014, 02:33:42 AM
I believe so, I'll double check in the morning. Stripe or writing is negative, correct? They have been cut short already.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on September 07, 2014, 02:39:03 AM
I believe so, I'll double check in the morning. Stripe or writing is negative, correct? They have been cut short already.

Also I believe there is a 4.7K resistor connecting pins 1 and 3.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 07, 2014, 11:50:25 AM
Checked my caps, they are placed in correctly. I attached an addy and it fires but only getting .0 and .3 on the voltmeter.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 07, 2014, 11:59:11 AM
Ok, ran my multimeter on the 510 and I'm getting 3 to 6v, it's just not showing properly on the voltmeter. Maybe I have a bad voltmeter? But it shows the correct battery voltage.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 07, 2014, 10:17:40 PM
So I still have no idea what caused my first build to short out but I just finished my 3rd one and it's working flawlessly.

Now I just gotta work on getting them to look a little cleaner on the inside. Anyone have tips on wiring these things up professionally?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: improntus on September 08, 2014, 02:26:51 PM
TNKS for the DPDT diagram David4500!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on September 08, 2014, 07:10:41 PM
Anyone have tips on wiring these things up professionally?

Heat shrink tubing and wire is going to be the easiest thing to do.  If you want to make it look a lot cleaner, you can use a printed circuit board to eliminate most of the wires.  It's not all that hard to make your own PCBs.  I do it often, but I still send out to a shop for complicated ones.

It can be a bit tricky making PCBs, but once you get things ironed out it's pretty quick and easy.  Otherwise, Osh Park can fabricate your PCBs for an amazingly low cost, I mean it really is amazing how cheap they are from them.  There are limitations with PCBs when dealing with high currents, but you can resolve that by using a bus bar soldered to a host trace on the PCB.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Misturbubles on September 11, 2014, 12:55:13 AM
What could cause the chip to be stuck on 6v? Bad pot?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 11, 2014, 07:23:47 AM
What could cause the chip to be stuck on 6v? Bad pot?

So, it was working correctly and then only outputs 6V? Could be a short across the pot. Check your pot wires for bridging.
A fixed resistor of 220 ohms with the pot shorted out will give you 6V
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 11, 2014, 09:49:56 AM
Heat shrink tubing and wire is going to be the easiest thing to do.  If you want to make it look a lot cleaner, you can use a printed circuit board to eliminate most of the wires.  It's not all that hard to make your own PCBs.  I do it often, but I still send out to a shop for complicated ones.

It can be a bit tricky making PCBs, but once you get things ironed out it's pretty quick and easy.  Otherwise, Osh Park can fabricate your PCBs for an amazingly low cost, I mean it really is amazing how cheap they are from them.  There are limitations with PCBs when dealing with high currents, but you can resolve that by using a bus bar soldered to a host trace on the PCB.

I actually used the OKR break out board from OSH Park on this last build. It worked fine minus the fast that the hole for the wires were too small to fit 22 gauge. I have to modify it a bit but it seems to be working just fine!

I need to figure out the best way to assemble this to make the wiring look clean. I use heat shrink and liquid electrical tape to keep everything safe, but i always end up with a mess of wires in the box when its done!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: BillsBerryDB3 on September 14, 2014, 07:36:26 PM
i just ordered the osh park board for the okr. only im going to use it with a raptor since the pins are the exact same
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wes on September 14, 2014, 10:18:11 PM
Hi all,

Just read through the whole thread.. Great information and very helpful.

I'm in the process of learning as much as I can before building a okr t10 box mod.

I have a (possibly stupid) question about breaktru diagrams 1 and 2 in the op.

Can a zener be used if you do not use pin 1?
If so, between which parts should it be?

Many thanks,

Wes




Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wes on September 15, 2014, 09:21:43 PM
OK, since I don't understand the basics, can someone put me in the correct direction to learn more about the functions of an okr or like. I get the rest of the components and what they do, but the path, particularly through the OKR is still very hazy!! I don't want to build, or follow a diagram without understanding, so if anyone has some pointers on a good book or the like please let me know.

Cheers

Wes
:)



Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on September 16, 2014, 12:30:16 AM
OK, since I don't understand the basics, can someone put me in the correct direction to learn more about the functions of an okr or like. I get the rest of the components and what they do, but the path, particularly through the OKR is still very hazy!! I don't want to build, or follow a diagram without understanding, so if anyone has some pointers on a good book or the like please let me know.

Cheers

Wes
:)

In the 1900's there was a crash at roswell



You tube has some really good videos explaining what buck and boosters are, how they work, and why they work like they do and how to build them from scratch.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCosnWgi3eorc1klEQ8pIgJQ
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: wes on September 16, 2014, 04:11:03 PM
In the 1900's there was a crash at roswell



You tube has some really good videos explaining what buck and boosters are, how they work, and why they work like they do and how to build them from scratch.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCosnWgi3eorc1klEQ8pIgJQ

Grand, thank you mate. Much appreciated  :)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Drac0 on September 16, 2014, 05:46:40 PM
Hi guys,

Can some1 provide me chart with ohms/real ampers? some1 meassured it?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: cvilledustin on September 17, 2014, 08:00:37 AM
Hello guys. Got a pretty dumb question here but what kinda amp rating should the fire button be?  Looking at the diagram I just see it can be non rated
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 17, 2014, 08:02:53 AM
Hello guys. Got a pretty dumb question here but what kinda amp rating should the fire button be?  Looking at the diagram I just see it can be non rated

It can only be non rated if you are using the p channel mosfet in your circuit
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: cvilledustin on September 17, 2014, 08:14:05 AM
Ah yes. I guess I didn't read that diagram too good. Thanks for the help. Now I just need to find that MOSFET and my order is complete
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: itsmedant on September 17, 2014, 04:32:57 PM
Ah yes. I guess I didn't read that diagram too good. Thanks for the help. Now I just need to find that MOSFET and my order is complete

It's all good! It can be confusing....i know i had tons of questions before my first one actually worked.

This is the mosfet i used

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=SUP75P03-07-E3-ND&WT.z_header=search_go
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 17, 2014, 07:36:56 PM
The P-channel MOSFET (SUP75 or whichever one you're using) is for the sole purpose of providing reverse polarity protection, it is not for being able to use a non-rated switch.

If you want to use a non-rated switch you must use pin 1 of the OKR - the wiring diagram shows how to wire.

cvilledustin - if using pin 1 of the OKR, any switch can be used the amp rating does not matter, even a small tact switch if you want.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: cvilledustin on September 17, 2014, 08:10:14 PM
OK. Now the gears are turning. So I can either go pin 1 and get a nc switch of any rating or use the other pin and find a 3 amp switch.

Kinda funny when all the nice low profile anti vandal switches are 2 amp not 3 like the schematic calls for
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 17, 2014, 08:28:17 PM
OK. Now the gears are turning. So I can either go pin 1 and get a nc switch of any rating or use the other pin and find a 3 amp switch.

Kinda funny when all the nice low profile anti vandal switches are 2 amp not 3 like the schematic calls for

No, not an NC switch, you need a NO switch, and for the OKR-T10 you will need a 10A switch if not using pin 1 as you will be passing 10A of current through the switch if you vape at or near the max current limit of the T10.

You could possibly use a lower amp rated switch than 10A and hope it holds up, but it's not something I would recommend if you vape at max amp load.  I've used the Otto P9 and it's rated at 5A and have had great results with it.  But I don't max the amps of the converter though.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 17, 2014, 08:52:02 PM
As I pointed out many times, look at the voltage rating VS the amp rating.
2A @ 48VDC switch can handle 10 Amps @ 8.4V
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: cvilledustin on September 17, 2014, 09:30:32 PM
As I pointed out many times, look at the voltage rating VS the amp rating.
2A @ 48VDC switch can handle 10 Amps @ 8.4V

Maybe this is where I was messing up. I looked at the first page and saw the low amp rating not using pin one
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 17, 2014, 10:15:39 PM
As I pointed out many times, look at the voltage rating VS the amp rating.
2A @ 48VDC switch can handle 10 Amps @ 8.4V

Do you have a source where there is a calculation that re-rates a switch from 2A @ 48VDC to 10A @ 8.4v and that in fact it can be done? 

I understand that you can probably safely assume a 2A switch could be used at a slightly higher amp at lower voltages, but how much higher is the question.  Can you safely push 10A through a 2A rated switch if using a lower voltage?  It just doesn't seem feasible to me.

I've spent some hours searching, but can't find a source for it.

I've found a few vague references, but nothing that indicates a switch can be re-rated from 2A to 10A even if used at lower voltages.

I found this post here for a build using the OKR-T10: http://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/1xvujz/almost_finished_my_okrt10_box_mod_aka_the_bruce/ (http://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/1xvujz/almost_finished_my_okrt10_box_mod_aka_the_bruce/)

Quote
switch rated at 2A/48VDC, should not be used for switching input power. Use only for switching power to remote control pin of OKR.

From my search of re-rating switches, quite a few reddit threads came up where reddit modders have a lot to say that re-rating a switch for higher amps can't be done and it's not safe to do. 

Just curious I wish I could find a source from one of the switch manufacturers.  I found this from Carlington:

Quote
DC Rule of Thumb

For those switches that list an AC voltage rating only, the "DC Rule of Thumb" can be applied for determining the switch's maximum DC current rating. This "rule" states the highest amperage on the switch should perform satisfactorily up to 30 volts DC. For example, a switch which is rated at 10A 250VAC; 15A 125VAC; 3/4HP 125-250VAC, will be likely to perform satisfactorily at 15 amps up to 30 volts DC (VDC).

You notice they didn't say the 15A rating would be higher at that lower DC voltage and it says 15A *up to* 30V DC. So it seems a 15A switch is a 15A switch whether you're using 6v, 12v, or 30v DC.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: cvilledustin on September 17, 2014, 10:58:09 PM
OK I got another question. Pin 1 uses just a NO switch right?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on September 17, 2014, 11:17:10 PM
OK I got another question. Pin 1 uses just a NO switch right?

Mamu has answered that question for you all ready by correcting you when you thought it used NC, Yes you need a NO switch. With a NC switch the unit will auto fire until the switch is pressed and resume to auto fire when released, With a NO switch the unit will only fire when the switch is pressed and stop when released.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: cvilledustin on September 17, 2014, 11:24:59 PM
Sorry about that.  Little tired so the brain isn't working. Confused myself lol
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: blkbd on September 18, 2014, 02:08:14 AM
Sorry about that.  Little tired so the brain isn't working. Confused myself lol

No problem but people just need to slow down and read, When it comes to technical schematics I suck and need to sketch it out on paper in a simpler form.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: RCVapes on September 18, 2014, 11:18:25 AM
I have a question guys I bought this switch for my first box mod Silver Metal Stainless Steel Blue LED Illuminated Latching Pushbutton Switch 16mm just wanted to see if anyone here has a good wiring diagram to use for this switch... Thanks in advance I'm pretty noob to all of this and I appreciate the help...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 18, 2014, 03:44:48 PM

Do you have a source where there is a calculation that re-rates a switch


I'm still racking my brains finding the original link on re-rating. Still looking.

The switch should have a DC rating to re-rate at a lower voltage higher amperage. Using an AC voltage switch doesn't equate the same.
If you noticed, that 2A switch had a DC rating. On switches w/ AC and DC voltage, the AC amperage is always higher than the DC amperage rating. If the manufacture has not provided a DC voltage rating, you take the chance of burning up the switch.
The safest bet would be to buy a higher amp switch which is hard to find or use a Mosfet.

In the mean time I found Craigs post on the matter HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,543.msg11023.html#msg11023) and HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,941.msg9342.html#msg9342)

I also found a pdf: Switch Training Manual (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEgQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aeroelectric.com%2FReference_Docs%2FSwitches%2FCH_Switch_Training_Manual.pdf&ei=PNYaVOG6L83ksAT6-IGgAw&usg=AFQjCNH69yTGr1IvvzlwE4TIzisH2W5BZg&bvm=bv.75097201,d.cWc)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on September 18, 2014, 04:52:51 PM
I've mentioned this before, but if you want to know more precisely what a switch can handle in terms of amperage, you can measure its voltage drop with a known current.  Divide the drop by current to get resistance.  Alternately, you can use a milli-Ohm meter.  Use current squared times resistance with power set to a half Watt then solve for current.  Probably anything up to a half Watt is going to be okay, maybe up to a Watt if it's a big switch.  That's provided you're not exceeding the switches DC power rating in terms of Volts times Amps.

They just don't provide raw current limits in switch data sheets, only what the contacts can handle in terms of power.  It's always a guess for maximal currents at low voltages, but you can nail it down somewhat by measuring the switch's resistance. 

You can go by the current listed in the Volts/Amps spec (which is actually a power rating that includes maximal voltage), but finding a switch that isn't huge with 20A specified in its rating is going to be pretty tough.  Then it's overkill anyway.


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 18, 2014, 05:28:16 PM
Thanks for checking, breaktru, and thanks for the link to the switch manual.  I saved it for handy reference.

I think it's unfortunate that switch manufacturers don't provide charts for various DC voltages with corresponding amp ratings for their switches.  I've spent hours searching for a source like that, but nothing available, and you would think that switch manufacturer would test for that when designing a switch.  That would save a lot of wondering what amps we can push through the switch at a lower voltage.

I agree with Craig he's always spot on about these things -  "There's a point where the switch hits a current limit regardless of applied voltage.  Unfortunately, absolute maximum currents are not provided for DC switches.  It's pretty much a guess." and "The main thing to take away is that within reason, you can use a higher current with a lower voltage without significant loss in switch longevity."

And I think we talked about this before in that if we're not sure about amp load we can breadboard and test the switch's contacts for heat and resistance at higher amp loads and that would at least let us know if the switch is handling higher amps.

I also read your edited comment and lol yeah you're absolutely right there. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on September 18, 2014, 05:30:23 PM
I've mentioned this before, but if you want to know more precisely what a switch can handle in terms of amperage, you can measure its voltage drop with a known current.  Divide the drop by current to get resistance.  Alternately, you can use a milli-Ohm meter.  Use current squared times resistance with power set to a half Watt then solve for current.  Probably anything up to a half Watt is going to be okay, maybe up to a Watt if it's a big switch.  That's provided you're not exceeding the switches DC power rating in terms of Volts times Amps.

Thanks Craig.  I hadn't seen this before. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 18, 2014, 06:43:07 PM
NKK has a break down for re-rating of their AC switches to DC. The formula depends on the type of load. Resistive, Inductance, Lamp, Motor or Capacitance. See: ReRating Current For 125V AC Switches (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC0QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nkkswitches.com%2Fpdf%2Felectricalratings.pdf&ei=fNEaVLWFDObCsAT22YGQDw&usg=AFQjCNGA-TB5tJE2UOp9Mua0vlN3WHR66Q&bvm=bv.75097201,d.cWc)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on September 18, 2014, 07:47:12 PM
From my own experience in being a dc electrician 26 years and observing the contacts on a 50mA switch handling upwards of 12A.  I would say its pretty much a situation of "CTA" cover thy arse.  I pulled apart my aa battery box 50mA on/off switch, there literally is no pitting or carbon deposits with daily use after ~8 months.

My power button is a 3amp c&k and it also has not had any issues so from experience with quality switches in our use those theorems from Breaks experience that he  has recommended of switch ratings are awesome.  We are not switching a motor or constant load to cause more concern IMO.

But seriously a 50mA switch with a 0v drop on a booster and .02-3v sag on a buck is very impressive.

If it is good enough for an airplane to use lower rated switches at double the quoted rating on their panels with a continuous load,  were barely scratching the surface..

Good read:
http://www.bandc.biz/pdfs/Switch_Ratings.pdf
 
Quote
I can also tell you that switching an
8-amp landing light with a 4-amp "lamp" rated switch is not
an automatic formula for welding. The 200% "overload" will
indeed reduce the life of the switch. However, let us suppose
the switch was originally rated for 10,000 cycles (a low
estimate) and the reduction was to 10% of rated life(also
very low)

Quote
Just because the numbers stamped on
the side of the switch don't mention a DC capability doesn't
mean that the switch doesn't have one. Manufacturers are
unable to put ALL of the information from the chart onto the
side of every product, the lettering would be too small to
read!
The article also alluded to a 3X increase in the price of
switches to get "DC rated" devices

Its amazing how a cheap or inexpensive switch rears its head very quickly like the madvapes old 5A  horn switches,  you look at the reviews and some last a week, month or two, and fail.   I asked on here would the battery box on/off be ok to use and Break said he had used it but changed it out just to safe so I used it and like I said no issues with 4 aa boxes in constant use..  Believe you me if a switch is having issues it will show carbon and pitting on DC applications str8 off, our railroad switch points need cleaning every  year on schedules because of that issue..  But were talking a choo choo train @16k, 32k, 48k amps depending on how many 8 car trains are in the same system and believe you me none of those switch points are rated for  even 32k amps...   If the bypass is not closed when opening a switch, after you arc it,  it literally looks like the moon with pits everywhere.   20 years ago we installed a mosfet switching system for Ohare airport track yard  it  was problematic and everyday it needed replaciing fuse or replacement of fets, so even with fets there can be issues of manufacturing not being up to specs..  It was removed and back to old copper buss switching..  Then tried again --partial success- :laughing2:

So that 50mA switch is a wowzer..  Good solder joins and short runs I think with many quality brand switches we are fine..  Now watch my mods all go belly up soon  :laughing:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on September 19, 2014, 01:48:48 AM
Almost exclusively switch failure is due to contact failure, not overheating which would be the effect of too much current.  I don't think I've ever seen a switch fail that way.  I've seen the contacts wear out and fail to conduct properly lots of times, but I've never seen one die from current overload other than a short circuit.

Most of the time, the raw current a switch can handle is fairly large with respect to it's power rating.  For example, a good quality switch might have 2 mOhms resistance.  Allowing it to dissipate a Watt provides over 20A of current flow.  That kind of resistance would be typical for a switch that has a rating like 28V/5A.  That's not to say for sure a 28V/5A switch can handle 20A, you'd have to measure it's resistance to know for sure.

There's a huge difference when switching motors and transformers as Visus mentioned.  When they conduct, they don't like to stop conducting.  When switched off they create something called back EMF.  It creates impressively large voltage spikes across switch contacts which play hell on them.  Typically a flyback diode has to employed to allow the energy to dissipate through the diode instead of the switch.  Without one a big motor can destroy a switch in just a few cycles.  Atomizers are much easier on switches as they are purely resistive and don't exhibit those inductive effects.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 19, 2014, 08:24:19 AM
Craig: I have a question.
When using a pushbutton switch for Vin on a DC/DC converter like the OKR, do you know what the load type for the switch is in play? Resistive, Inductive or Capacitance?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on September 19, 2014, 06:43:41 PM
There's a term called reactance which is a blanket term for the effects of both capacitance and inductance.  Reactance is the quantified reaction to changes in current, hence the term reactance.  It's what makes those big voltage spikes when current suddenly changes. 

Reactance is graphed with inductance on one side of an axis and capacitance on the other.  Capacitance and inductance are like opposites.  Reactance increases with frequency for inductors and decreases with frequency for capacitors.  In a circuit, reactance can cancel between a capacitor and inductor.  The frequency at which this happens is called the natural frequency or resonant frequency.

The vector sum of reactance and resistance is impedance.  It's a vector quantity meaning it's graphed on a plane with an angle and magnitude.  The "x" axis being resistance and the "y" axis being reactance.  The ratio of reactance to resistance is significant.  That's indicated by the angle of the impedance vector with respect to the x axis. 

Various devices have various amounts of reactance.  Even a straight wire has reactance, albeit very small, it's vastly resistance there.  Motors and transformers have a lot of reactance compared to resistance.  Large devices can have significantly more reactance that resistance.   They can have large angles in their impedance vectors.

For a converter there's not a huge amount of reactance relative to the resistance.  There is some considerable reactance there, capacitance due to the input and output capacitors and inductance due to the inductor used to do the input and output conversion.  However, resistance is more significant.  The input reaction to sudden changes in current is not substantial though it's a major consideration for the internal controls.  At the least, it's not enough to be concerned about wear on switches.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 19, 2014, 07:29:55 PM
Thanks Craig. As always, I truly appreciate your professional explanation.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on September 19, 2014, 08:03:26 PM
Welcome.

Geez, I could go on for hours on this topic.  What you're doing is cracking open the door of AC theory which is what electronics is greatly more about than the DC stuff.  Though AC theory can really give you a headache, it's pretty complicated.  I have to go back and review stuff all the time when I'm doing AC stuff.  That's not to be confused with the AC coming out of your wall.  AC theory covers just about everything including radio, controls, and even some aspects of digital design.

I actually skirted your question with a long answer.  There's a reactive load due to a DC-DC converter, but I don't know whether it's capacitive or inductive.  You actually have to calculate the step response then observe the phase angle to tell.  So, the better answer to your specific question is I don't know.  I check step response all the time with designing my own coverters, but I've never looked at the phase angle, pretty sure it's inductive though.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: ternadorex on September 22, 2014, 06:53:27 PM
Ok first I want to thank you all for the wealth of knowledge that you put out here. Without this I don't know that I could have built my okr mod, it would have taken much much longer to figure it out. I am a plumber by trade and water and electricity don't mix. I used mamu's diagram minus the reverse polarity protection as I am using 7.4 lipo packs. Only one way to plug them in so no big threat there. I installed everything in a temporary box for batt life testing and all before I finish my box.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dasen22 on September 22, 2014, 07:19:34 PM
Ok first I want to thank you all for the wealth of knowledge that you put out here. Without this I don't know that I could have built my okr mod, it would have taken much much longer to figure it out. I am a plumber by trade and water and electricity don't mix. I used mamu's diagram minus the reverse polarity protection as I am using 7.4 lipo packs. Only one way to plug them in so no big threat there. I installed everything in a temporary box for batt life testing and all before I finish my box.

Nice to hear that you got it made  :beer-toast:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on September 28, 2014, 09:37:50 AM
Hey Everyone. Been reading these boards for a couple months now and absorbing as much as I can. Finally got the rest of my parts from china for my OKR T/6 mod. Everything is bread boarded and working well. But now I've decided to use a digital pot instead. Posted in another thread with the same question. Hope that's OK? Can someone tell me whether this Digital Pot will work?
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=X9313ZSZT1virtualkey57760000virtualkey968-X9313ZSZT1
And what size resistors to parallel? Don't want to start drilling holes before I get everything cause the case is a little tight. Trying to get these last couple parts ordered before I put everything on a PCB and cram it in my case.  THANKS.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on September 30, 2014, 07:47:07 PM
Well found a supplier for the DS-1869-10 but they're off for a week and a half for National day so screw it guess ill do the analog pot for now and incorporate the Digital on the next one. In case someone is interested here's the link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DALLAS-DS1869-010-SOP8-Digital-Potentiometer-/360848136035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5404399763
Maybe I will be received better if I start a build thread? Just wondering why I didn't get any reply's?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on September 30, 2014, 08:23:41 PM
The OKR requires a 200 ohm pot. Using a value higher than that w/ a parallel resistor will wreck havoc on linearity. Adjustment is a nightmare.
See: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,244.50.html (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,244.50.html)

and: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1015.msg16441.html#msg16441 (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1015.msg16441.html#msg16441)

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: MP5k on September 30, 2014, 08:33:32 PM
Hi everyone first time poster here. I have a couple of the 3 wire led volt meters how would I wire them to show how many volts I am using. thanks in advance and thank you to everyone one here for all the great info.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on September 30, 2014, 09:28:06 PM
The OKR requires a 200 ohm pot. Using a value higher than that w/ a parallel resistor will wreck havoc on linearity. Adjustment is a nightmare.
See: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,244.50.html (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,244.50.html)

and: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1015.msg16441.html#msg16441 (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1015.msg16441.html#msg16441)

Yeh saw those, but thought you used it anyway?
Thank you for the reply.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on October 01, 2014, 12:22:07 AM
Hi everyone first time poster here. I have a couple of the 3 wire led volt meters how would I wire them to show how many volts I am using. thanks in advance and thank you to everyone one here for all the great info.

Just connect the black wire to common ground and the other two to the positive of what your measuring. The red wire is for powering the led metter and the white wire is for measuring the volts. You could even just connect the white wire to what your measuring and the other two to power and ground. Either would work.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: MP5k on October 01, 2014, 04:45:08 PM
I thought so but I put way too much thought in it like is could not be that simple.lol
Thanks for the help.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: steamEngine on October 03, 2014, 11:46:25 AM
Yeh saw those, but thought you used it anyway?
Thank you for the reply.

He did use it in his side x side mod
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on October 06, 2014, 08:01:29 PM
Alright guys. I might of burned my chip cuz when it was on the bread board it was working great and now that its on the PCB I'm getting no output from it. Might have shorted through some solder splatter I noticed after the fact. Never saw smoke or anything. Rechecked all connections and schematic. Tested V at all connections and they all stop at the OKR. Pot good, Resistors good, Diode good, Fuses and PTC's good,  Vin good, Vout no good. Should there be impedance across Pin 2 to Pin 4? I have none. Is there a better way to test chip? Thanks in advance.
Stevo
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on October 06, 2014, 08:03:36 PM
Oh. If it is toast, thought I would get the Raptor 10 to replace it since its got the same Pins layout, The T/10 is backordered and I could just unsolder and resolder. Thoughts?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on October 06, 2014, 09:24:30 PM
You should be able to do that without issue, remove and replace the regulator.  You've probably checked everything you can in terms of peripheral circuitry.  You could pull it out and check in the breadboard again.  Usually parts are pretty tough but there's certain things that will fry them, reverse polarity is one and shorting out traces on the PCB would be another.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on October 06, 2014, 11:14:09 PM
Yeah. Ill pull it and Breadboard it, check it but I think its fried. Thanks for conf on the raptor 10 Craig. Didn't c it when I ordered the T/6, cuz T/10 got gobbled up already. Nice to know.  If anyone knows of a way to confirm a burnt OKR, let me know. Thanks
Oh meant to say P-FET good Too.
Stevo
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 07, 2014, 07:50:47 AM
One other thing Stevo. When you remove the chip, put a voltmeter across pin 4 and pin 3 and just hit pin 2 and pin 3 with the battery voltage. Don't wire up Pin 1 or use any other parts but batteries and voltmeter. You should see 0.591 V. If that checks okay, add pot and resistor and check for variable output.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on October 07, 2014, 08:23:51 PM
Thanks Break, I put it on the BB and its doing the same thing as it was on the PCB. I get like .01V or 5 mV on 200m scale out of Pin 4 with or without Resistor or Resistor/Pot combo. Id say its prob toast right? Thanks
Stevo
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 07, 2014, 08:55:48 PM
Thanks Break, I put it on the BB and its doing the same thing as it was on the PCB. I get like .01V or 5 mV on 200m scale out of Pin 4 with or without Resistor or Resistor/Pot combo. Id say its prob toast right? Thanks
Stevo
Yep, sounds like it.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on October 07, 2014, 09:37:19 PM
Oh well. Next time I'll be more patient instead of rushing to fire it. But good excuse to upgrade to 60W.  :). Probably wrong thread hope y'all don't mind me asking but as far as I can tell from the data sheets the raptor and OKR are pretty much the same as far as components go right? Like caps, pot and such. Thanks a lot guys.
Stevo
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on October 15, 2014, 10:42:03 AM
Finished up another for my wife...finally got her off that ego batt mod I did for her. Put a Mutation X on top with a .65 ohm coil. She loves it. Thank you again for the ground breakers that did it first allowing me to fillow. One question tho, can I use a three 18650 setup to power the chip?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 15, 2014, 11:13:37 AM
Very nice and nice and need. Congrats.
I was thinking what the pink and white decoration was on the cover, until I blew up the photo and discovered it was a reflection of your hands holding a phone camera. Ha, Ha
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on October 15, 2014, 12:00:45 PM
can I use a three 18650 setup to power the chip?

Spec sheet has max input voltage listed at 14v. 3x18650s @ 4.2v would be 12.6v.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on October 15, 2014, 02:30:31 PM
Is there any difference in resisters with the 12.6 imput?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on October 15, 2014, 05:38:32 PM
Yes, but omit the zener and the P-FET as they are not needed and replace the batts with the DC connector.

Hello everyone. Havent been on in a while and now I got the bug again. I plan to make a okr t6 pass through and it was suggested (outside of breaktru) to use a 1500 uf cap. So Mamu you're saying I don't need that. I was looking for a diagram to follow and was pointed to this diagram (again outside of Breaktru). My search skills  Yes its a different chip I was going to wire accordingly. My power source is a repurposed power supply (Junked the equipment) OUTPUT is 12V  =  3.33A  I'm hoping the answer is no because I cant find a 1500UF cap locally. I can find 1000uf and 2000uf but thats it and they are friggin huge. I'm planning to put in a 2x2x1.5 enclosure. Any help will be greatly appreciated. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 15, 2014, 06:25:05 PM
The 1500uF that is shown in your diagram is an output capacitor for the D12S05020. It has nothing to do with passthru or the OKR-T/6.
If you would like to add a capacitor for your OKR-T/6, a 22uF 10v or 16v can be added to the input and not the output like your schematic shows.
Personally, I don't use caps on my OKR.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on October 15, 2014, 07:37:31 PM
The 1500uF that is shown in your diagram is an output capacitor for the D12S05020. It has nothing to do with passthru or the OKR-T/6.
If you would like to add a capacitor for your OKR-T/6, a 22uF 10v or 16v can be added to the input and not the output like your schematic shows.
Personally, I don't use caps on my OKR.

Sweet!! I can start building tomorrow. Provided the power supply works. Lol.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Louis4052 on October 16, 2014, 04:07:25 PM
Hello all. I'm new to modding and have been reading through this tread for a few weeks.  I got my first okr mod up and running after tearing it down a couple times. It's only firing a 6 volts with the trim pot all the way up. I checked everything over and over and finally looked at the specks for the pot. 200k! Damn. If I turn it down even a smidge voltage out drops to .59 ish. I have a 200 ohm pot comming.   Hopefully the right pot will get this working right.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 16, 2014, 04:22:58 PM
Hello all. I'm new to modding and have been reading through this tread for a few weeks.  I got my first okr mod up and running after tearing it down a couple times. It's only firing a 6 volts with the trim pot all the way up. I checked everything over and over and finally looked at the specks for the pot. 200k! Damn. If I turn it down even a smidge voltage out drops to .59 ish. I have a 200 ohm pot comming.   Hopefully the right pot will get this working right.

Yup, you need a 200 ohm pot. Turning it up to 6V is zeroing out the pot with only the fixed resistor in play.
Dialing down the pot puts to much resistance in the circuit with the 200K pot.

And... welcome to posting. Don't be shy, we welcome your posts.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Louis4052 on October 16, 2014, 04:37:07 PM
Yup, you need a 200 ohm pot. Turning it up to 6V is zeroing out the pot with only the fixed resistor in play.
Dialing down the pot puts to much resistance in the circuit with the 200K pot.

And... welcome to posting. Don't be shy, we welcome your posts.

Awesome! It'll be hot vapes till Monday then.
I'll post a pick when I'm back at the destktop.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on October 17, 2014, 01:30:37 AM
 :beer-toast: :beer-toast:
Awesome! It'll be hot vapes till Monday then.
I'll post a pick when I'm back at the destktop.

You could put a 200 ohm resistor in parallel for 198ohms

it wont swing as nice but it will give ya the whole range til delivery
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on October 22, 2014, 05:26:23 PM
I rewired my Okr mod grabbing ground at the atomizer and it made a huge difference in performance.  HUGe difference, than direct off the battery.  I guess/now know it, without seperate  sense connections, wiring this way it regulates and senses the load better.   I now have a 0v drop at the atomizer where b4 it was ~03v.  Same with the evercool mod rewired ground at the atomizer and 0v drop. 

I thought I would share this info...
I noticed it as soon as I vaped and had to meter it and was pleasantly surprised.  The mod I built I had to grab ground at the atty due to space and I rewired my evercool to the same result.

It's now hitting spec sheet tolerance .01.  It makes sense after thinking about it.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on October 30, 2014, 09:31:57 PM
Wanted to thank all of you guys for putting all this info out there. Finally got mine done. Took a while to find a switch with a short enough body to fit. Not my first choice but other than ordering 500 of the SS version I settled on this blue button to stay with the theme of blue Leds for the 3-dig and reverse polarity indicator.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on October 31, 2014, 07:19:03 AM
Congrats Stevo  :applaude:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 01, 2014, 08:29:46 PM
Thanks Break. Only problem I found is 3-dig blue that I got off amazon that shipped from China. Freakin month shipping was bad enough turns out the dang thing reads 0.6 V off fully charged and 1.8 V off almost dead. Luckily didn't permanently glue anything in in case of problems. Trying to find a blue replacement but probably gonna have to get a red.   :(
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on November 02, 2014, 06:03:28 AM
That sucks Stevo. Did you wire in a slide sw for output and battery V readings?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Dropsomegears on November 02, 2014, 12:47:44 PM
Just wanted to show some Pics of boxes I wouldn't have been able to complete if it wasn't for this wonderful site.

Recent T6 pass thru
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x402/DropSomeGears/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_190654.jpg) (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/DropSomeGears/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_190654.jpg.html)

(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x402/DropSomeGears/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_190312.jpg) (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/DropSomeGears/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_190312.jpg.html)

(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x402/DropSomeGears/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_191338.jpg) (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/DropSomeGears/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_191338.jpg.html)

(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x402/DropSomeGears/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_191328.jpg) (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/DropSomeGears/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141028_191328.jpg.html)

T10
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x402/DropSomeGears/Mobile%20Uploads/20141013_0937130.jpg) (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/DropSomeGears/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141013_0937130.jpg.html)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on November 02, 2014, 03:37:12 PM
Just wanted to show some Pics of boxes I wouldn't have been able to complete if it wasn't for this wonderful site.


Cool. Congrats on your builds
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 02, 2014, 04:07:17 PM
Yeh 3-Pos switch wire to Vin and Vout. V out seems good. Vin Full charge 8.2V on VM = 7.6V on 3-Dig. Vin low charge 5.8V on VM = 4V on 3-Dig. Vout 3.41V on VM = 3.53V on 3-Dig. Vout 5.62 on Vm = 5.75 on 3-Dig.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on November 02, 2014, 04:36:17 PM
Could be a defective meter but seeing that there is only a 0.12v difference on output between your VM and the DM and a 0.6v to 1.8v difference on input tells me that perhaps the 3-pos switch may be the culprit of high resistance. Also check you soldering on the input voltage side of the switch.

With the switch in the input voltage reading side, take a jumper and jump out the contact points and see it the voltage drop changes.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 02, 2014, 06:20:32 PM
Sounds like a plan. I'll test it out later. If its the switch I'll replace. If its a solder I'll leave it and compensate cuz I would want to compromise any other solder joints. Thnx Break
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 04, 2014, 10:24:34 AM
It was the switch. Everything works fine now.  :rockin smiley: Thnx.
Been tryin to find a LIpo for my other chip and case. Ill make the next one a lot cleaner.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 24, 2014, 07:58:24 PM
Hey guys, Started working on my next Mod. Wanting to incorporate an Ohm check as well as Vin and Vout for 3 dig display using a LM350 with 2 resistors and a Pot. Some guy on utube used it and it seems to work. Planning on using an ON-ON-ON-ON switch with one position actually OFF to output Voltmeter. Crappy Drawing Included. Questions: Has anyone used this to get Ohms?  Does anyone see any problems with this? Links Below. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks 
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=LM350Tvirtualkey51210000virtualkey512-LM350T
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=L204121MS02Qvirtualkey61110000virtualkey611-L204121MS02Q
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on November 24, 2014, 08:09:58 PM
yeah theres a video of the guy who made the mod with this setup. 
may be the its same vid
It will fire the atomizer when you check ohms and a 3 wire powered vmeter  0-xxv is the only issue. 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 24, 2014, 08:13:50 PM
Sorry 0-vxx? Pot value? If so Is it going to be really hard to adjust to right value?
Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on November 24, 2014, 08:25:26 PM
Sorry 0-vxx? Pot value? If so Is it going to be really hard to adjust to right value?
Thanks

The v meter has to be powered and the ones that go from 0 to usually 99v some are 0-35v  they are many different some to 250v so I put xx.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 24, 2014, 09:24:32 PM
Gotcha. So I'll need a 3 wire display and a push button for Vcc. Thanks for the feedback
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 26, 2014, 01:53:21 AM
Hey Guys, Finished another one. Ice Sabor. 60W-Vin/Vout display-Thumbwheel Pot. Thanks to Dropsomegears pics. No Ohm check yet but being the big kid I am I put a sound chip, accelerometer, and blue LEDs on separate power switch and it acts and sounds like a light sabor.  :rockin smiley: So Much Room For Activities! :laughing:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on November 26, 2014, 06:48:50 AM
Congrats Stevo  :beer-toast:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: CraigHB on November 26, 2014, 06:56:45 PM
What a fun mod, very cool.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 26, 2014, 07:43:19 PM
Thanks guys. It is fun. Rather large for my liking but definitely easier to assemble in the hammond box with room to spare. Have to especially keep this one away from the kids. They of course want to play with it too. :no: Dont know how to upload sound file but it sounds just like you would imagine. Sound chip is 4V so its hooked up to just one Bat. Making sure to switch em around with the extra drain. Guess I could of V Reg'd it to both but it was easier to just tap in to 1.  I'm sure the cool factor will where off with time but for now its on quite a bit.  :beer-toast:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on November 26, 2014, 08:04:37 PM
Woot good one loves it  Stevo

Ya know like Doctors round here while the outside is purdy we like the guts moreso lol.

Can ya lift the skirt a bit  :laughing2:


 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 26, 2014, 08:59:21 PM
Lol. I cleaned up the wireing a bit since this photo. Not a whole lot showing. Right side is crammed pretty tight.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 26, 2014, 10:38:16 PM
Weird thing just happened. It stopped firing so I pulled the atty and it output fine. Checked with VM and output as expected. Atty back on and display blink once and humming from chip area. Batteries at 6.6V. Put fresh batteries in and it works fine. Is the 5.6 Zener diode cutting out early?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: miskol on November 26, 2014, 10:48:52 PM
wewww nice sabor mod, should build another red one soon? hehe
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 26, 2014, 11:47:43 PM
NO! I will not go to the dark side......well maybe.  :yes"
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on November 27, 2014, 12:00:24 AM
Yeah thats a great cutout
the sag from efest is much greater than sony's so your on the money.
Mamu would curse at your batts she uber hates efest they gave her a headache troubleshooting a mod that did the same as yours lol..


Thats a lot of wiring in there, looks hella confusing lol.

Wondering if ya have at least 20ga on it  looks of being pretty thin but could be thin sheaved.
It is also is a plus if you grab ground at the atomizer for the reg it increases its accuracy huge..
gives it a rudimentary -sense
no big deal but  produces a 0 drop reg loaded
when wired off the batts  ~.03sag loaded


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Stevo2569 on November 27, 2014, 01:15:14 AM
Ahh. I suspected those efest. Just got em for this mod. First time using. Got MNKE and VTC3's too but no big deal I guess. Makes sense. Yeah 20g where needed 24-26 elsewhere. The atty, bat and reg ground all connect right next to each other on PCB. Is'nt that pretty much the same?
Thanks
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on November 27, 2014, 02:43:52 AM
It would seem as so but it in a plastic enclosure it reacts with a margin of better accuracy.
I have not built in a metal mod to test it with case carrying also ground..

I do not know why it does but it truly does.   Maybe its the wider path to load IDK lol...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Milzee on December 02, 2014, 01:55:56 PM
Hey guys, thanks for all the info so far. You guys are pretty  incredible. I decided to make one according to mamu's schematic using the 10 amp regulator. I've got all the parts and it is all put together in the breadboard. It works perfectly without a load, I get a value of 3.3 - 6.1 volts on the meter, but if I try powering it with a load (2 ohm cartomizer) it doesn't fire. I'm just wondering if anyone has had problems similar to this, I suppose it could be from the breadboard itself, but I'd rather make sure it would work before I put it all together in the enclosure.

As far as parts I'm using pretty much everything that Visus listed earlier in the thread, reply #319, except for different fuses, RGEF500 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RGEF500/RGEF500-ND/1045840 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RGEF500/RGEF500-ND/1045840)) and a ceramic capacitor instead of tantalum.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: gno3545 on December 02, 2014, 03:21:12 PM
hey guys I've been sifting through all this for months now and I'm ready to build my first ok r T 10 I've got all the parts but one and that's the MOSFET P fet I need for this build can anybody give me a digi key link for the exact P fet?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Milzee on December 02, 2014, 03:36:49 PM
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=SUP75P03-07-E3-ND&WT.z_header=search_go (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=SUP75P03-07-E3-ND&WT.z_header=search_go) I believe that is one of the ones that they suggest using for the build. It has leads so it should be much easier to solder than the SMD one.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: gno3545 on December 02, 2014, 03:49:16 PM
thanks I'm now complete
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Milzee on December 02, 2014, 07:31:36 PM
Update: I decided to put it all together and guess what?!?!? IT WORKS!!! I guess it was the breadboard after all. Well I'm glad I figured that out.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on January 18, 2015, 02:35:37 PM
Hmm, I got a bit bored.
After building 10 or so okr builds, I decided to make something a little...bigger. How abut a four port vape station? Using 4 of the okl 60 watt chips with LED voltmeter and Hammond 1590A boxes as the handset. Thay will be on ten foot cords and controllable from the station. Heres a question tho, since I want a big moohoofus battery to run all four ports, is that going to work having all four hooked to the same battery? EXAMPLE - 6 26650's in parrelle,  wired for series with another 6 26650's for 8.4 volts.
OR have 3 packs of 4 26650's ,  wired into series for 12.6 volts.

Any thoghts would be appreciated.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 18, 2015, 05:09:25 PM
If all are maxxed thats 240 watts and 2s6p 26650's can easily handle that and much over.
They run a lil more efficient at 8.4v so
It will run forever on a charge..
You can charge that mofo huge amps too  woot

Nice build...

Wonder if ya know abou this charger was gonna make a post and lazied out.
Pretty sweet for our 2s builds lil weaksauce for your monster build tho
http://www.varitube.com/YiHi-9V-Balancing-Charger-Board_p_179.html
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on January 18, 2015, 05:18:07 PM
Thanks for that link visus, but I went and bought a 110 AC to 1 Amp balance charger.  I wanted to be able to just plug that thing in to the wall. The only question I have for charging, is that I don't know if I can charge and vape at the same time. Do I need to put in a cutoff switch for it when I charge, isolating it from the converters?

I figured that the batteries would hold up for all four going at once, but I thought that the c9nverters were most effective at around 12v input?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on January 18, 2015, 06:14:20 PM
Reading the data its most efficient at around 7v at 12v they lose a little bit of efficiency as the regulator is taking a larger margin of loss 3-5v.  Its the batteries in worry t when using above 60 watts, then it will need 3s to handle the watts...  At 10 amps yeah the 12v you may wanna use but will you be vaping @60watts all the time or ~30-40watts.

Page 5
http://power.murata.com/data/power/okr-t10-w12.pdf

Its not to shabby either way but @3.3v 12v @~91%   @8.4v above 95% then @ 3.3v  they level out at 10amps

So yeah they will run better with 12v if are you  @ 60watts a lot or 2s @ 30w or so.  Thats huge runtime in 6p you will lose quite a bit going 3s1p but quicker charging.  IDK great either way but I like to get all the eff/runtime I can lol..

You could have a bought a 5amp or higher charger most 26650's can charge safely at huge rates..  @1amp thats gonna take forever lol..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: tater.1980 on January 19, 2015, 03:26:53 PM
Hi very new to this forum and have been reading a lot in the last 2 weeks quick question if using pin 1 for low voltage cutoff does the wattage rating on the zener diode matter?
 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 19, 2015, 04:13:33 PM
Welcome tater.
No doesn't matter. A low wattage zener will do.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Milzee on January 19, 2015, 04:46:40 PM
Wow, Rigure, that looks pretty impressive. Ever since I got into building my own (crappy) mods years ago I've been dying to make an electronic hookah type setup, and your build is pretty much how I would want to make mine. Any chance I can get you to post a parts list? Also those connectors for the hand held boxes, are those just quarter inch audio jacks?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: tater.1980 on January 19, 2015, 08:33:12 PM
Welcome tater.
No doesn't matter. A low wattage zener will do.
Thank you very very much
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on January 24, 2015, 11:00:48 AM
Wow, Rigure, that looks pretty impressive. Ever since I got into building my own (crappy) mods years ago I've been dying to make an electronic hookah type setup, and your build is pretty much how I would want to make mine. Any chance I can get you to post a parts list? Also those connectors for the hand held boxes, are those just quarter inch audio jacks?


so i finished it up. heres a pic of it installed in the local vape shop.

Milzee, the parts are your run of the mill okr-t10 parts list minus the reverse polarity. The box itself is a Hammond box, and just as a caution, it does not come with a bottom...i used 16g(bigger than needed i know) four conductor cable for the cords and fender gutair 1/4" plug in ports for the jacks.

I think iv come a ways from my first little okr box. it just takes time and effort to imagine something different.

Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on January 24, 2015, 01:08:19 PM
Great project. It came out rather well  :rockin smiley:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Madyicstik on February 09, 2015, 09:33:02 AM
i have something similar. i think ill update my connectors to a guitar like yours. i currenty have deans  on mine. care to share where you got your parts from? im wondering if regular rca connectors would handle the power too?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on February 09, 2015, 11:24:06 AM
i have something similar. i think ill update my connectors to a guitar like yours. i currenty have deans  on mine. care to share where you got your parts from? im wondering if regular rca connectors would handle the power too?
I suppose thay would if you get big enough cables. But , I think that four rca Jacks on the outside ...aesthetically wouldn't look good. The ports are boat style Mighty Mite 1/4 plugin jacks. I didn't use the conception jacks...I didn't know if thay would drop too much. Plus I needed to find them in stereo for the four wires. Got pics of yours? I'd love to see it.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on February 09, 2015, 12:17:30 PM
RCA connectors,  the good ones carry over 100 amps of current in studios if thats what your asking,  they
are not inexpensive though.  Even the cheap solderable brands will carry the current and voltage with slight loss thats minimal on long runs but for our use under ten feet or so they will be sufficient just use good/decent cable..  The 1/4" jacks high end are  inexpensive and those boat style Rig is using are purdy looking but even the cheap ones out rank in connection expensive rca's.. 
I have over 20k+ of audio cables in storage from old studio biznuss that went north south and finally kaboom lol well if my ex didn't throw out my boxes, that I am sure she did..  Its not only the equipment that hurts ya pockets in owning a studio its the freakin wiring,  make or break ya, literally lol...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Madyicstik on February 11, 2015, 10:33:34 PM
Only issue that im having is how to put the switch in the box as currently my switches are in the base and only connectors are in the boxes.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Madyicstik on February 12, 2015, 12:57:20 PM
I suppose thay would if you get big enough cables. But , I think that four rca Jacks on the outside ...aesthetically wouldn't look good. The ports are boat style Mighty Mite 1/4 plugin jacks. I didn't use the conception jacks...I didn't know if thay would drop too much. Plus I needed to find them in stereo for the four wires. Got pics of yours? I'd love to see it.

which specific diagram did you use out of the 3? i need to know how you kept the connector and the switch on the 1590A box and 2 wire conect both switch and connector to the main base station?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: ericmonster on February 17, 2015, 02:50:37 PM
Hi, I'm new to this site. Thanks for having me. I have a problem. I have tried to build the t10 about 6 times. Each time, it works for a few hours (sometimes up to 24) then begins to auto fire. I've tried 1k and 4.7k res between pin 1 and 3. same result. Built one with no pin 1 using a PV2 switch and it seems to be holding up. Has anyone else run into this problen with the remote switch? And do you think the PV2 is sufficient to run this mod without pin 1? Thanks for the input
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on May 24, 2015, 05:00:53 PM
oops...  corrected.  I revised that guide the other day based on requests to clarify what ground is and where it goes.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention, miskol!

Hi mamu, I'm sorry if this is a redundant question and I'm reading through the tread but have a couple of questions related to your diagram that I think I need to get answers to:

I built a dual 26650 T/10 and its been working flawlessly for a couple of weeks now then yesterday it started auto firing. I removed the atty and turned the unit off via the switch, attached a different atty and switched it back on and all was ok for about 15min then it started auto firing again. This time I tried to turn off the unit with the switch and it continued to fire but my meter turned off. I was thinking I had a faulty switch until I noticed the meter was working. I also realized that the slide switch I'm using is not wired as a master on/off but only connects the POS lead of meter with the fire button and the POS terminal end of the battery sled which just gives me the total power. (I'll have to backtrack on that to see where I screwed up).

I'm currently removing the HS tubing so I can check the connections to the T/10 and take pics of the solder points. Is the 22uf cap connecting pins 2-3 required? And for my knowledge base why and what are the benefits? I just received some from Mouser and will install if needed.

Thank you.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: mamu on May 25, 2015, 04:50:10 AM
Input cap is not required for the OKR, is optional.   With the OKR it's the modder's option to add or not add.  I add an external input cap with my OKR mods, personal preference as I feel it helps to buffer inrush current and that it improves the reliability and longevity of the converter by increasing the lifetime of the internal onboard caps. 

Autofiring is usually the result of a fire switch failure, or a pull-down resistor failure/loose connection, or using too high of a resistance value.  Autofiring can also result from failure of pin 1 if applying too much heat to the pin when soldering or if holding the soldering iron on the pin too long.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on May 25, 2015, 06:19:12 AM
Input cap is not required for the OKR, is optional.   With the OKR it's the modder's option to add or not add.  I add an external input cap with my OKR mods, personal preference as I feel it helps to buffer inrush current and that it improves the reliability and longevity of the converter by increasing the lifetime of the internal onboard caps.
Thank you, I think I'll add it just for GP!  8)
 
Autofiring is usually the result of a fire switch failure, or a pull-down resistor failure/loose connection, or using too high of a resistance value.  Autofiring can also result from failure of pin 1 if applying too much heat to the pin when soldering or if holding the soldering iron on the pin too long.
I replaced the switch with a new out of the package same model and the mod did the same thing. Works fine for 10-15min then starts autofiring. I also changed the atty with one I was using on my dna mod and continued to get the same results. I have a feeling that the res on pin 1 has failed/failing but I'll find out in the morning late!  :thumbsup:

Thanks for your input.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on May 25, 2015, 06:29:39 PM
Autofiring is usually the result of a fire switch failure, or a pull-down resistor failure/loose connection, or using too high of a resistance value.  Autofiring can also result from failure of pin 1 if applying too much heat to the pin when soldering or if holding the soldering iron on the pin too long.
The 220ohm resister appears to have been the culprit. I replaced it and so far everything appears to be working. I also replaced a 1k with a 4.7k resister not shown in pics. I saw the difference between another schematic I used and yours. I'll know in a day or two. Anyway here is my build;


(https://i.imgur.com/LApR5Je.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/rExUjn7.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/cpcChPc.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/nMEWpjA.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/4Fe9Le3.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/av1dIGj.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/85fA005.jpg)

Thanks again Mamu... :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on May 27, 2015, 12:56:51 AM
Well its a no go... Think I have a bad T/10. After replacing all resister and ZD I continue to have intermittent autofirings. I know the POT works correctly because I can turn the volts up/down. In the linked vid I connected a voltmeter to the 510 and waited. The mist you see is from me vaping:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2tk_YT_bONyUmVFcC1lWVk2X2s/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2tk_YT_bONyUmVFcC1lWVk2X2s/view?usp=sharing)

So I have an extra project this weekend... glad I had an extra T/10.

Thanks so much for your feedback. :wallbash:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on May 27, 2015, 07:48:24 AM
Congrats, jblack on your build.

Check for a cold solder connection for the 4.7k resistor on pin 1 and the other end of the 4.7k to ground (-). A cold solder would increase the resistance to Pin 1.
If all is well with your soldering then try a lower value resistor on pin 1. Example: instead of 4.7k first try 4K then 3.5K then 3k, etc...
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on May 28, 2015, 03:21:27 AM
Congrats, jblack on your build.

Check for a cold solder connection for the 4.7k resistor on pin 1 and the other end of the 4.7k to ground (-). A cold solder would increase the resistance to Pin 1.
If all is well with your soldering then try a lower value resistor on pin 1. Example: instead of 4.7k first try 4K then 3.5K then 3k, etc...

Thanks Breaktru, I had a 1k resister on there to begin with and everything was working great for more than a month. Then last week it started acting like it was on drugs. Anyway I'm going to undue the chip and replace the resisters and diode and we'll see what happens. Worst case is I replace the T10 itself.

Thanks for your time and help.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: unclever on May 31, 2015, 04:34:52 PM
I would like to thank everyone in this thread for the great help they have given everyone and for just sharing their knowledge. I'm a metal fabricator and do custom paint so I built my own box from sheet aluminum and wrapped the edge in brass. I followed mamu's schematic  and my okr box works great. Here are some photos.(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn172/brokenfingerdesigns/Mobile%20Uploads/20150529_122205_zps7fwwk4gq.jpg)

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn172/brokenfingerdesigns/Mobile%20Uploads/20150529_122221_zpsmgqkgf72.jpg)

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn172/brokenfingerdesigns/Mobile%20Uploads/20150529_122246_zpsfznuurxe.jpg)
One question now that the electronics bug has bit me I was wondering if someone has a schematic for an ohm meter. Would just like to build one. Thanks again.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on May 31, 2015, 07:58:16 PM
Thank you to both mamu and breaktru for you help/suggestions. In the end it was just more expedient for me to put in a new chip with all new components and so far so good.

Just for the torture and practice I added a 22uf cap based on mamu's diagram and I have to say that after I was done, I needed a drink!  :laughing2: Sorry no pics of this but in short I made a package using the cut leads from a ZD, soldered them to the ends and shrink wrapped it which made it much easier to work with on the T/10. A big  ;bow; to you guys again.

Thanks.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on May 31, 2015, 10:49:25 PM
Thats a sweet build unc..

grats jb,
 gotta post pics may as well notta said anything noone believes until you post pics
 this is the internets and build porn pic or it aint so lol...


Unc Mamu has a post on page 1 modding with a screen with erryting on it, 
10a limit; but she said someone else is using it fine above 10A but she doesn't try it. 
Another has killed this meter by using it over 10A,  he said it was like 30A..
IDK if there's any diagrams that will subohm in the nets other than mcu mods
 


Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on May 31, 2015, 11:14:54 PM
Thats a sweet build unc..

grats jb,
 gotta post pics may as well notta said anything noone believes until you post pics
 this is the internets and build porn pic or it aint so lol...

Sorry Visus, I got so involved with the cap that I just didn't think about it until after I had packaged everything up and started drinking!  :beer-toast:.. so you'll just have to take my word for it! LOL! That HS is not coming off unless something else comes up!

Thanks.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on June 03, 2015, 04:55:29 AM
Congrats, jblack on your build.

Check for a cold solder connection for the 4.7k resistor on pin 1 and the other end of the 4.7k to ground (-). A cold solder would increase the resistance to Pin 1.
If all is well with your soldering then try a lower value resistor on pin 1. Example: instead of 4.7k first try 4K then 3.5K then 3k, etc...
Ok, I thought I was loosing my mind. After changing all components I still ran into the same issue. Refusing to believe that all components were bad and checking and double checking my wiring, I got out the magnifier and guess what? I found a minute solder trace right at the board edge between pins 1 and 2 from where I soldered on the pull down res. Once I cleaned that up all is good in my world again!  :applaude:

Thank you for your help.  :rockin smiley:
 
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on June 03, 2015, 05:57:36 AM
Nice find. Glad you got it sorted out.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on June 03, 2015, 09:38:32 PM
Nice find. Glad you got it sorted out.  :thumbsup:

Question Breaktru, since I'm using 26650 batteries should the pull-down res be more than 4.7k?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on June 04, 2015, 03:19:35 PM
I personally don't use Pin 1 but those that do find 4.7k adequate for use of two series batteries. It shouldn't matter if they are 18650 or 26650. The voltage is the same.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: jblack741 on June 04, 2015, 07:48:01 PM
I personally don't use Pin 1 but those that do find 4.7k adequate for use of two series batteries. It shouldn't matter if they are 18650 or 26650. The voltage is the same.
Going to take it back to breadboard, it flipped on me again. On full charge to pin 1 is 8.23v and with POT at lowest vout is 3.34v. This is also the same reading I get at +510 regardless of fire button state. I'm also going to try it with 18650 and see if the circuit stabilizes.

Thanks.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on July 31, 2015, 06:18:24 AM
For a 1590A passthrough mod

(http://i.imgur.com/kMb8A4Y.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/5qm4Ay1.png)
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on August 02, 2015, 03:47:01 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/4hb73Tf.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/IWgbjit.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/QycoWYZ.png)

Parts:

* Custom PCB ordered from Oshpark

* http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=3ade99b3bd

* http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/679-2216-ND

* http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0023Y9EQC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

* FDV v4 low profile short

* 18g stranded copper wire
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 02, 2015, 04:02:44 PM
Very nice David. Great work
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on August 02, 2015, 04:23:48 PM
Thanks for the kind words!
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Visus on August 03, 2015, 02:01:14 PM
Uber nice work there David,  I use  2 AA battery holders but have atomizer overhang on everything  other than some tiny drippers it was built for..  Those are perfection..

Love the new buttoned and potted PWM boards ya made too I checked OSH  ya no share these and that?


Surprised you didn't toss in a vmeter..  Maybe you did on internals,  the first pic is 404..
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david.wjs on August 10, 2015, 03:01:39 PM
Hi all, this is my first post after lurking for some time and finally joining, and it's basically to ask for some help on something that is driving me insane on my okr t10 build...

Okie dokie, my problem is that I have two T10's... One is outputting 0, nothing, nada and so I'm guessing that one is dead, the second one will only output either:
0.6v regardless of trimmer position when a 220 ohm resistor is inline

Or:

6(ish)v to 7(ish)v without the inline resistor


My setup is this -

Pin 1 - to battery plus with mechanical inline switch
Pin 2 - battery plus
Pin 3 - battery minus
Pin 4 - 510 plus (negative grounded)
Pin 5 - 200 ohm trimmer between pin and ground

There is a 1k ohm resistor across pins 1 and 3, I'm using a home brew 7.4v lipo pack

As I say, If I add the 220 ohm resistor in series with the trimmer I get 0.6v regardless of pot position, and without it I get between 6-7v (across half the pots travel)

I hope somebody can help?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on August 10, 2015, 03:11:19 PM
Hi all, this is my first post after lurking for some time and finally joining, and it's basically to ask for some help on something that is driving me insane on my okr t10 build...

Okie dokie, my problem is that I have two T10's... One is outputting 0, nothing, nada and so I'm guessing that one is dead, the second one will only output either:
0.6v regardless of trimmer position when a 220 ohm resistor is inline

Or:

6(ish)v to 7(ish)v without the inline resistor


My setup is this -

Pin 1 - to battery plus with mechanical inline switch
Pin 2 - battery plus
Pin 3 - battery minus
Pin 4 - 510 plus (negative grounded)
Pin 5 - 200k ohm trimmer between pin and ground

There is a 1k ohm resistor across pins 1 and 3, I'm using a home brew 7.4v lipo pack

As I say, If I add the 220 ohm resistor in series with the trimmer I get 0.6v regardless of pot position, and without it I get between 6-7v (across half the pots travel)

I hope somebody can help?

My first guess is the 200s ohm potentiometer. It should be 200ohm .
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david.wjs on August 10, 2015, 03:27:35 PM
Oops.... "Pin 5" should be 200 ohm not 200k ohm - I'll correct that now


But, you mention a 200s, what's a 200s?
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Rigure on August 10, 2015, 04:32:16 PM
Oops.... "Pin 5" should be 200 ohm not 200k ohm - I'll correct that now


But, you mention a 200s, what's a 200s?

Opps...was driving and posting...I ment a 200 ohm pot.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david.wjs on August 10, 2015, 04:36:31 PM
Ah, ok, but yup... Using a 200 ohm trimmer
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on August 10, 2015, 05:45:33 PM

0.6v regardless of trimmer position when a 220 ohm resistor is inline

Or:

6(ish)v to 7(ish)v without the inline resistor


As I say, If I add the 220 ohm resistor in series with the trimmer I get 0.6v regardless of pot position, and without it I get between 6-7v (across half the pots travel)

I hope somebody can help?

Sounds like the fixed resistor is opened or is 220K ohm and not 220 ohm. An open connection on pin #5 will give you an output voltage of 0.591 V
Measure your fixed 220 ohm resistor with an ohmmeter.
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david.wjs on August 10, 2015, 05:52:27 PM
Thanks for your response!

I'll give it a whirl, but I've tested it with a number of different resistors and experienced the same with them all
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david.wjs on August 11, 2015, 12:07:49 PM
Problem maybe on its way to being solved! The pack of resistors were indeed 220k, 220 ohm on order... Fingers crossed
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: david4500 on July 16, 2016, 04:07:41 PM
For a 1590A passthrough mod

(http://i.imgur.com/kMb8A4Y.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/5qm4Ay1.png)

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/JlPcIwbE
Title: Re: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit
Post by: Breaktru on July 16, 2016, 05:40:17 PM
Nice david. Great  :rockin smiley: