Breaktru Forum
eCigarette Forum => Modding => Parts for Mods => Topic started by: beamrider on November 30, 2013, 11:59:22 AM
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Started building another dna20 mod, only to find that out of the 8 brass 510 connectors I have (from madvapes) every single fucking one has the insulator split. I havent found anyplace to order just the insulators, and I'm pretty much done with this garbage. Does anyone know of some place that might sell a better connector? Nice delrin insulator maybe, stainless steel connector? Someone has to make something a step above, all these high end mod makers cant be using this junk.
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Yeah they suck. Next time lubricate the insulator before pushing them out. They are made like garbage.
4 for $1.49 at: Avid Vaper (http://www.avidvaper.com/510-threaded-connector-insulators/)
(http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2100/b3c53/products/270/images/978/IMG_0657__29691.1316761780.1280.1280.jpg)
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I did lube them all up 1st, with some PG. Actually I use an insulin syringe , and try to get some of the PG in between the insulator and center pin. The settings on the 20 ton press the factory probably uses could have been off, I spose....:)
And thanks for the heads-up on the replacements, those look quite a bit different than stock ones. I'll order some, and if they're actually silicone, it should be possible to solder to the pin without having to remove it. If you're quick, that is, but for the price I don't really care if I smoke one.
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I used an old mechanical pen's spinner bit click mechanism as my insulator its delrin and fits perfectly. I am looking for some more, it will never fail its epoxied in place..
I have seen circuit board wafer washers that small in some electronics
http://www.alliance-express.com/insulator-washers
If someone knows size dimensions --help me out here. post them I have found quite a few places that make the insulators but have no idea the size..
I have 2.5mmOD X 1.7mmID X 3-5mmTall 2mm lip height on top
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I used an old mechanical pen's spinner bit click mechanism as my insulator its delrin and fits perfectly. I am looking for some more, it will never fail its epoxied in place..
I have seen circuit board wafer washers that small in some electronics
http://www.alliance-express.com/insulator-washers
If someone knows size dimensions --help me out here. post them I have found quite a few places that make the insulators but have no idea the size..
I have 2.5mmOD X 1.7mmID X 3-5mmTall 2mm lip height on top
I posted the measurements in this thread --> HERE (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,294.msg1430.html#msg1430)
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I buy all my connectors directly through a China supplier as madvapes is always out of stock. I've approached them about making ss connectors.
I no longer fix the center post with epoxy from underneath, and haven't for a long time now, as I really much prefer an adjustable center post, so I used to replace the insulator that comes with the standard connector with an avidvaper insulator - BUT was still having issues with people damaging the insulator and *sigh* overtightening the atty which causes the insulator to work its way up and over the center post which not only damages the insulator, but causes connectivity issues.
So what I do now is use a connector spacer that madvapes sells, dremel the center hole a bit larger, then insert it onto the center post from the underside. No more insulator problems with shorts or it working itself up and over the center post. A bit of extra work and a bit of extra money to buy the spacers, but maaan it's nice to have no more damaged insulators or service issues with this as well as still having a flexible center post.
And with using these spacers, I'm back to using the insulators that come with these standard connectors - I've not had any problems with them or with them being torn from the supplier I buy from.
connector spacer...
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/spacer1.jpg)
dremel the center hole just large enough to slip through the underside of the center post... I use this attachment...
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/spacer2.jpg)
slip the spacer onto the center post from the underside...
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/spacer3.jpg)
now the insulator is not only protected, but can't work itself up and over the center post when someone overtightens the atty or has a connectivity problem...
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/spacer4a.jpg)
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Thats the exact wafer washer I was posting about. :yes" Wow nice
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I've approached them about making ss connectors.
I hired out a machine shop to make a bunch of SS connectors for me. They're awesome, 304 stainless body, Delrin insulator, brass center post. They mount from behind with a 3/8" panel nut. Totally bulletproof. The bad news is how much it cost me to have them made. In any case, I'm stocked with connectors as long as my builds are in small numbers. I dont' sell them, but if anyone wants the engineering drawings I can make them available.
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Awesome, Craig - PM incoming.
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Is it just me, or is the 510 connection not really optimum ? THere's got to be a better designed system that can be used for this application, but it seems like everywhere you look, it's 510.
I did a small experiment with leftover 510 connector parts. SOldered my wire to the center post as usual, inserted it into the body of the connector, but without an insulator. Filled it from underneath with a syringe and 14(?) gauge blunt needle, using silicone caulking, then screwed a carto onto the body, just barely finger tight. I'll let it sit for a few days to cure, then see what it looks like.
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Is it just me, or is the 510 connection not really optimum ? THere's got to be a better designed system that can be used for this application, but it seems like everywhere you look, it's 510.
I did a small experiment with leftover 510 connector parts. SOldered my wire to the center post as usual, inserted it into the body of the connector, but without an insulator. Filled it from underneath with a syringe and 14(?) gauge blunt needle, using silicone caulking, then screwed a carto onto the body, just barely finger tight. I'll let it sit for a few days to cure, then see what it looks like.
You could also try filling the connector with silicone without the center pin in it and then drilling or punching a hole in the center. You probably could use something small like a needle to put the hole in then the pin would fit tight. I might have to try it myself...good idea you have there :)
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Awesome, Craig - PM incoming.
Here's the drawings for you in PDF format; link (http://webpages.charter.net/chblock/510 Connector.pdf)
Some notes about this design;
The insulator is specified as POM (Delrin) I wanted to use Polyimide (Kapton) which has very high heat tolerance, but it was cost prohbitive. PTFE (Teflon) is better than POM for heat tolerance, but again expensive. If you go with the Delrin, you will need to solder the wire to the center post before pressing it in. If you pay for the better material, you won't have to do that. Polyimide can for sure withstand the heat of solering, but I'm not sure about PTFE.
The backing nut is a standard nickel plated brass 3/8" panel nut. It's not specified in the drawings. Those nuts can be found at specialty hardware shops like drillspot.com. It's better to use brass since it's a good conductor and minimizes electrical losses. You do get about 5 mOhms insertion loss for the 304 SS body, but that's the cost of a really tough material for the threads. You can solder the nut or use a standard 3/8" crimp lug behind the nut. Those can be found at any hardware store.
I designed these connectors some time ago before the use of oversize atomizers that use center post air flow. You may want to reduce the height on the drip cup a half mm or so otherwise airflow can be obstructed on those types of atomizers. It's not a concern for me since I don't use atomizers like that, but when I make mods for others, I always turn that lip down a half mm for airflow.
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Now that is a quality connector that no amount of money can buy. Great job craig. I've seen it before on your PowerBlok mods and it is amazing
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Well, necessity is the mother of invention. I have no issue sharing these drawings since I have no plans to produce and sell them. I take them for granted anymore, no more connectors wearing out or getting loose. I've been using these for a couple years and not one has shown any detectable wear on the threads or suffered any other connector issue. They are seriously bulletproof.
I'd like to change that lip on the drip cup, but it's way too expensive to redo them. I'd either make it flat with notches or reduce the height. I'd still rather have a polyimide insulator, but I've not really had much need to resolder a connector. The one or two times I've done it, I've just popped the center post out with a pin punch beforehand.
In any case, I can't believe that no one has yet made a connector like this for sale at the retail level. It seems like a simple thing really.
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Thanks so much for sharing, Craig. Absolutely awesome connector and with a built in catch cup - quite innovative.
I got my first look at your mods by googling "PowerBlok mods". Very very impressive - major wow factor there with what you've done with your mods and the know how you have to build it from the ground up.
(http://www.mamumods.com/pics/connector.jpg)
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Thanks Mamu, means a lot coming from you. Your work was an inspiriation years ago when I started building mods for the first time. Haven't seen that photo, must be from one of the guys I've built one for. But yeah, that one has the lip turned flat. The connectors on the ones I build for myself look like this (http://webpages.charter.net/chblock/PB1400.jpg). You can actually back up a level on that link and view the contents of my web space. There's a bunch of pictures of the smaller 1400mAh box and the bigger 6000mAh box I do right now.
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The connectors Craig designed are the best I have used for making mods. It's a shame that they can't be had for about $8-10 a piece (connector, insulator, pin and panel nut) on a site like Madvapes but they can only be had through a machine shop and cost about $13 each for 200 made like I did. That is a large chunk of change to spend. These aren't for sale as they are going into a mod case I designed for production.
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The connectors Craig designed are the best I have used for making mods. It's a shame that they can't be had for about $8-10 a piece (connector, insulator, pin and panel nut) on a site like Madvapes but they can only be had through a machine shop and cost about $13 each for 200 made like I did. That is a large chunk of change to spend. These aren't for sale as they are going into a mod case I designed for production.
You ain't kidding brother. Big bucks to layout for 200.
For the few hobby mods I make a year for myself it's not worth it.
They do look awesome though.
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Craig
Very nice looking work you've done.
I've been lurking here for a while and am just about finished with my first mod DNA20 project. Love the looks of your 510 connector and just wanted to verify if I would have your permission to see about having some made user your PDF.
Sincerely
Littlefeather
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Craig
Sorry! These old eyes just re-read your post giving permission to use your connector plans. Doh:
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Their 510 adapter is top notch this makes it that much easier if quality matches 510 adapter it will be the one other than the cad built connectors.
510 with nut modders connector..
woot
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10003955/1563302-510-to-510-adapter-for-e-cigarette
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The problem with those is the brass body. The threads wear out, and pretty fast if you swap atomizers around a lot. That was my main motivation for designing an SS modders connector. Also, the crappy rubber insulators they use break down pretty quick. They can split and short out the center post, it does happen rather often. It's a real pain to replace those insulators in some cases and a real annoyance.
If anyone wants to mass produce my connector and sell it you're welcome to. I'd consider it a service to the vaping community.
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It would be cool to get some sort of co-op going on some decent machined connectors. I don't have much in the way of a modding budget but I'd like to have a chance to use some decent connectors. Would be nice to see some company like madvapes, etc, jump on the bandwagon.
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Well, I'm not a company per say but I sent the PDF to a couple of companies I know and will let you all know when I hear back.
It would be very nice to find them at a cost effective price. I did ask for quotes in brass also. I do like copper & brass! :thumbsup:
I know most of you are all about electronic power, efficiency and capability but there is also the purdy factor! I know! Everybody’s purdy factor is different. Thank god we aren’t all the same and all like the same things. That would be reel boring!
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The problem with those is the brass body. The threads wear out, and pretty fast if you swap atomizers around a lot. That was my main motivation for designing an SS modders connector. Also, the crappy rubber insulators they use break down pretty quick. They can split and short out the center post, it does happen rather often. It's a real pain to replace those insulators in some cases and a real annoyance.
If anyone wants to mass produce my connector and sell it you're welcome to. I'd consider it a service to the vaping community.
Craig
Are the brass ones you're talking about wearing out faster, are they the ones from FT or Madvapes or your design? I know brass is not as durable as SS but just wanted to verify which ones you were speaking too, or if it was an, In general brass connectors?
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Yes, it's hard to find a competitive price to get connectors machined. That's why I've not done it myself. Though, when you get the numbers up, the price goes down, but you're talking like 1000 units. The Chinese shops do stuff a lot cheaper. I found one to do my connectors for about $12 a piece in low(ish) quantity. They did a surprisingly good job further breaking down my attitude that Chinese shops never do good work. Sometimes Chinese shops do really good work.
In terms of looks, I don't think 304 Stainless can be beat. It's just a great looking metal. Though it's not a great conductor, but the body provides a lot of mating area through the threads which makes up for it to an extent. I said 5 mOhms before, but I forgot that includes the wires and connections. I took the measurement using volts over amps at the board connection compared to the atomizer connection. It's probably more like 2 or 3 mOhms which wastes 200 or 300 mW at 10 Amps compared to 10 or 15 mW for a brass connector. Really not a big deal when you consider a 10 Amp draw would be for a load of about 30 Watts. That's barely a percent.
I've not had any connectors made with a brass body, but it would be no problem to do it. Brass is a lot cheaper than stainless for material cost and machine labor so that's why all the ones you find presently are made of brass. They could be made with stainless, but they don't do it. Though, there's still the issue of the crappy silicon/vinyl insulators they use.
I don't know that the makers of 510 connectors have ever thought in terms of wear on the threads. They ~can~ wear out. If you don't remove and replace your atomizers much, it's not a problem. If you do, the threads wear to the point that the atomizer won't stay in eventually.
A friend of ours vapes and uses the eGos. She likes to fill her cartomizers from the battery end and she ends up replacing the battery units because the threads wear out before the cell inside of them does. When I used the cartomizers and only dripped into them, the threads on my connectors would wear out just from replacing cartomizers.
I use a rebuildable now, but I still remove and replace it an amount for cleaning and service. I don't know that I'd wear out a brass connector, but it's certainly nice to know that can't happen. It's also nice to know I'll never have a center post failure. I had a one or two of those before.
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Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, I've been there and done that with the ego's and have run thru several batteries with the threads wearing out.
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This may be an alternative solution for those on a budget and not able to afford Craig's connector...
They are top cap replacement heads for a cloned mech mod... the middle one has a brass floating center pin with a delrin insulator, aluminum body though - not stainless steel...
http://www.fasttech.com/search?replacement%20top%20cap (http://www.fasttech.com/search?replacement%20top%20cap)
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This may be an alternative solution for those on a budget and not able to afford Craig's connector...
They are top cap replacement heads for a cloned mech mod... the middle one has a brass floating center pin with a delrin insulator, aluminum body though - not stainless steel...
http://www.fasttech.com/search?replacement%20top%20cap (http://www.fasttech.com/search?replacement%20top%20cap)
That's funny. I was going to post that same top cap yesterday but saw that it was aluminum and thought that it may be worst than the brass ones. Aluminum is a better conductor than brass but easily strips. I worried about cross-threading too.
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Craig's connector is definitely the best available.
I was thinking the floating brass center post and delrin insulator by itself might make that top cap a good buy to solve center post, shorts and insulator issues. It's unfortunate that it comes with an aluminum body and threads.
The top cap for the Chi You clone is advertised as stainless steel.
For me, those top caps are too big in diameter. I need something around 12-15mm in diameter total - connector plus catch cup.
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For me using the standard crappy 510 connectors will have to do. I only make mods for myself and the small store bought boxes are too narrow to accept a wider 510 base. Craig custom designed his enclosures around his super connector.
Being that I only make for myself, I'm not concerned about a drip cup. I haven't had a single leak since switching to rebuildable atomizes. But if you are building for a customer, you can't stop "User Errors" from happening so adding one may prevent a return repair.
Also I refill my tanks on the mod so I only unscrew them when I need to rebuild. Wear and tear on the connector is much less than it was prior to RBA's.
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I think even if we had a source for getting delrin insulators to upgrade the ones on the currently available mass produced connectors would be a huge improvement.
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Yes, the diameter on anything for a 18650 tube mod can be a little big for a box that uses a small battery like a flat cell or 14500. I could use one on my bigger boxes, but the smaller ones I make only have about 16mm available for the connector.
Some of the T6 grades of aluminum are pretty tough, not that much softer than brass so it would be possible to use it, but you'd have the same problem with the threads. Not much help there. Though it's a very good conductor and it's inexpensive for material and machining costs.
There's a pretty huge difference in the toughness of threads in steel compared to any other inexpensive metal. Titanium is even tougher than steel, but the stuff is cost prohibitive. The material is expensive and it's expensive to machine because it's so hard. It's not a great conductor either, probably not much better than SS. I'd have to go look it up, but I remember it's rather low on the conductivity chart. Can't remember if it's above or below SS.
I seem to never avoid spilling juice out of my atomizers at some point. So, the catch cup has been quite handy for me. Helps keep any spills from running down the mod. Though, it really would be no big deal if it wasn't there. It's not something that happens all the time.
It's certainly possible to use the brass connectors available presently without issue, but I have no regrets paying the money for something that's indestructible.
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The whole link needs an update
its truly great for inexpensive connectors.
I like the top caps idea as being the proper size for an atomizer connection not a 510 lol big whopping 1/2" connectors like a hybrid...
Un feasable but cable connectors last a good long time
Im designing a hybrid vv madmod for bottom feeding and a 510 on a bottom feeder that is not SS seems nasty. I cleaned a ego head with vinegar and it rusted overnight seriously decaying rust so cheaping out on a connector is where we all have had to rifle thru different sites to find a proper 510 and finding Craigs being the one needed customizable no drip cup or air ridge etc but slag and jostle the wagon limber instead of excessive in the 510 connection.
Shivers, rust, mon'' rust, vaping a carto sometimes rust there so I now need that connector . lol
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SS is impervious to any solvents used for cleaning, however, I have found one thing it's not resistant to at all. I spilled some ferric circuit board etching acid in the sink and it quickly burned a permanent spot in the stainless tub.
The center post on my connector is brass for good conductivity and solderability so that part is not as resistant to non-neutral solvents like vinegar. It would be a good idea to pay the premium to have that post nickel plated. I didn't specify that in the drawings. The ones I did are bare brass which does require some polishing every once in a while to keep it shiny for optimal contact performance. Though the abrasion from removing and replacing the atomizer tends to keep it shiny anyway.
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:beer-toast: thanks buddy for sharing your connector with us. If only someone would start a co-op
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I would definitely buy some for a bigger mod box if the co-op price was right. They are sweet looking as well as quality superior.
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If an order could be put together for 1000 units, I imagine it could get the cost down to about $5 a piece. To go full tilt on quality with a polyimide insulator and nickel plated center post, it would be about $10 a unit I imagine.
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If they were $5 a piece I would get a few for personal use myself.
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For sure, I'd stock up more as well. I paid a lot more than that for my low quantity. Plus it provides an opportunity for improvements (make the lip flat with notches on the drip cup).
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Hell, for $5-10 apiece, I'd surely be in for at least 20.
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Fasttech has a service that may honor this request they have shelved and purchased everything I have asked and the price would be marginally better.
another idea at it
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Mamu gave me an idea with the little atty washer. Thanks! Light bulb goes on! I picked up this .020 PTFE film a couple of years ago at an estate sale along with a bunch of other materials. You can pick up a sheet for about $10-12 dollars. That’s a lot of washer worth!
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic?search=ptfe+.020
Saw a friend scrapbooking and using this technique. You’ll need two paper punches, one 1/8” & one ¼”. Remove the catch guard on the ¼” punch (1/8” drill bit took the rivet out). You’ll need to be able to see the back side for alignment. The fit is perfect! Fix all those egos and new mods! Made 100 in about 20 minute including vape break.
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DANG! Good idea! Thanks for sharing. :thankyou:
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excellent idea
break has posted idea similar with modifying the white top caps on carts, this makes it a lot easier if had a sheet and punches lol.. Small hole punch first, line it up, big hole punch woot.
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Yeah they suck. Next time lubricate the insulator before pushing them out. They are made like garbage.
4 for $1.49 at: Avid Vaper (http://www.avidvaper.com/510-threaded-connector-insulators/)
(http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2100/b3c53/products/270/images/978/IMG_0657__29691.1316761780.1280.1280.jpg)
One of the things I do is repair eGo style batteries that people have knocked the threads out of or, more often, no longer can get their device(s) to make contact with the center electrode (as the Chinese call it). The seal that center contact goes into is called a bung seal and the are 4 different variations. Most often, the determining factor on which one to use is how close the PC board comes to the top of the connector. When they get compressed the center contact no longer makes contact with the device center contact. That bung seal can be replaced without removing the connector from the battery body or DE soldering anything. Just pull the center contact from the seal with dental tool with a heavy 90 degree bend extending about 1/4" and ground flat on the inside surface. Work it around the contact, prying it up a little at a time. Be gentle, the wire may be a bit short. How pull the old bung seal out and cut it free of the wire. Your new bung seal WILL fit over the contact. Work It completely over the contact pin. With forceps or whatever works for you, get the seal started into the hole. With the flat end of a tool a little smaller than the inside of the connector, push the seal the rest of the way into the hole. You have to push hard and rock it in circles. Don't worry about the wire/ With the seal in place, work the wire down into the hole and then use the same flat ended tool to push the contact into the seal. Works like a champ.
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Well they finally started selling Stainless Steel 510 connectors. The center pin is nickel plated brass so it can be soldered. Unfortunately the negative can not be soldered because it is SS. Recommended mounting is to press fit it into a metal enclosure to complete the ground path.
AVID VAPERS (http://www.avidvaper.com/510-stainless-steel-mod-connector/)
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$7.99 ach! forget that lol.
I wonder if ss can be soldered to using aluminum solder? Or just scruffing the area to be soldered with a dremel and then using flux prior to soldering?
Maybe I should do some detective work and see what China supplier Cisco is getting them from. :laughing:
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Yeah 7.99 is a bit much for me.
I found a video on soldering SS to copper with a torch, Silver Solder and Flux.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suvkKuEURww (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suvkKuEURww)
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I will get the part number when I get home, but I picked up a ss solder kit from a local weld supply place. It makes soldering to even thicker ss fairly straight forward with just an iron.
People have reported cleaning the ss up real good and using a flux like the below is all that is needed to solder to ss using regular solder and iron.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BGYQEC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AKJ57Q9VZBBO8
I solder to ss quite regularly now. Here are some pics of a ss battery holder I made. I pressed in the end cap and soldered it a little to make sure it stayed put, as well as soldering a wire to the tube.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/be86dc49-36fa-4f3a-b587-9a7964d77a64_zpsfd53a628.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/be86dc49-36fa-4f3a-b587-9a7964d77a64_zpsfd53a628.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/null_zpsddba2dfb.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/null_zpsddba2dfb.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/null_zpsd0ed5126.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/null_zpsd0ed5126.jpg.html)
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Well I'm happy to hear it can be done.
Now if he can get them for 2 bucks, I would buy some
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I have had a huge success with vinegar lol yep vinegar
I solder lipo tabs in tiny droplet puddle of it, as well as the ss 510 connectors.
Makes for a good weld after initial clean up and scuff
paper towel with vinegar and dab of flux keeping the solder area moist with vinegar, solder and wallah' good weld.
:thumbsup:
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Yep, I can confirm what bap is saying. I just finished my dna20 mod and used a drawtube cap for the build. Used a good Kester branded acid flux paste and regular lead free solder.
60 watt soldering iron, a mini torch(yeah this may have been excessive but i had a free hand lol) throw some flux on there and let the solder flow tinning the connector first then quickly solder a tinned negative lead wire to it.
(http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/kurtus420/dna20%20build/20140110_232210Medium.jpg) (http://s746.photobucket.com/user/kurtus420/media/dna20%20build/20140110_232210Medium.jpg.html)
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Not sure how good these are: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005381/1589801-stainless-steel-flat-top-cap-for-chi-you-king-mod
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Dave: 510 battery connectors I pay $0.50 each and shipping is $12.50. If those are the connectors you are looking for, message me. You can also get the bung and cup seals.
Eric
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Not sure how good these are: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005381/1589801-stainless-steel-flat-top-cap-for-chi-you-king-mod
See, that's the deal. If that was actually stainless, I'd consider it. I find the Chinese consider "stainless steel" a term relating to finish tho, and not composition. I'll bet it's plated brass, or aluminum.
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Hell, for $5-10 apiece, I'd surely be in for at least 20.
Beamer: I'll look up the info and send it, and a picture of the connector as soon as I can find it. should not be to hard, it has only been 4 or 6 weeks since they arrived.
Eric
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See, that's the deal. If that was actually stainless, I'd consider it. I find the Chinese consider "stainless steel" a term relating to finish tho, and not composition. I'll bet it's plated brass, or aluminum.
The chi you ss caps are ss
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And the moment you have all been waiting for.....quality looking ss connectors for about $5 cant_believe:
I have some coming, but haven't actually used them.
Bulk ordering available, pics are better on the ebay listing - price is better on the site
Fatdaddyvapes Mechanical Mod Complete 510 Thread Repair Insert Kits | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FATDADDYVAPES-MECHANICAL-MOD-COMPLETE-510-THREAD-REPAIR-INSERT-KITS-/111252755694?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e72e54ee)
SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vaping equipment, eliquids, and supplies!!! (http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/Screenshot-1_29_201411_03_37AM_zps0c0f028e.png) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/Screenshot-1_29_201411_03_37AM_zps0c0f028e.png.html)
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Very good bap, nice find. Thanks.
Unfortunately for me being an all American, I don't have metric drill bits or taps
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Very good bap, nice find. Thanks.
Unfortunately for me being an all American, I don't have metric drill bits or taps
I only have one metric drill bit and I tap metric all the time.....Xmm/25.4 and then I find the closest drill bit :D
This place has pretty good prices and pretty good selection of taps, the quality seems pretty good also I use them on ss/brass/aluminum all the time. http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Metric-Taps/1310.html
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So I got my fat daddy 510 connectors.
It's a little harder for me to compare to other aftermarket offerings because I gave up them without using them and just made my own.
In general I think they will serve must modders pretty well. They are a little longer than I hoped, but that is probably due to their intended use as a replacement.
One out of the 6 connector I ordered the inside 7mm x 0.5 threads are a little out of square to the rest of the connector, the rest were fine.
Also one out of the 6 connector I ordered the inside 7mm x 0.5 threads were closed off at the atty end. Likely due to the lead in chamfer, a tap or a little grinding is needed just to open up the end thread.
Oh and I don't like how the nut won't thread on over the delrin piece, I will grind this down a little.
If you want to use the nut to mount the connector they recommend a 9.5mm hole, which just happens to be very close to 3/8"
I like to tinker and I dislike both the fixed and adjustable connectors I have seen. So I have started using a 20a PCB spring loaded contact probe for the center pin, the pins are rated at < 10mOhms - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=101402-000virtualkey53060000virtualkey818-101402-000
Below is modifications with a drill and Dremel to add in the use of the spring pin.
So initially I drilled out the delrin piece to accept the spring pin. It worked, but with the pin at the height I like it the end of the pin didn't extend from the end of the connector. Which isn't necessarily an issue, a wire could be soldered to the end of the pin and installed into the connector.
But because I'm me, I took it a little further. I cut down the connector and further modified the delrin piece, so the end of the spring pin stuck out a little.
Below are the some pics.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/8D9F7CCE-0E32-4A2C-9E63-91E1EEE4221F_zpsthtapncq.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/8D9F7CCE-0E32-4A2C-9E63-91E1EEE4221F_zpsthtapncq.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/65135173-CC04-485E-9B4E-2755F84E4650_zpsbpiljkoo.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/65135173-CC04-485E-9B4E-2755F84E4650_zpsbpiljkoo.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/45C5E64B-D111-4B18-8157-010DA1620525_zpst5oe6ugb.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/45C5E64B-D111-4B18-8157-010DA1620525_zpst5oe6ugb.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/F84F4264-5107-4680-AF7D-7A54E392B70D_zpsvvadznii.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/F84F4264-5107-4680-AF7D-7A54E392B70D_zpsvvadznii.jpg.html)
Here is what my actual plan was for the fat daddy connectors, and I think it turned out pretty nice. I got a little carried away cutting down the ss body, next time it will be a little longer and delrin piece a little shorter, but the pin will stay in the same place.
Basically I made a brass collar with a couple of slits in it to solder to the pin, then I made a delrin piece that the pin presses into. I set the pin location so it makes contact from about 0.130" to 0.200".
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/240CA1FF-4BAC-42F4-92F9-423E235898E0_zpsu6ng7ecj.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/240CA1FF-4BAC-42F4-92F9-423E235898E0_zpsu6ng7ecj.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/0E664F8A-37A2-452B-80A6-5C3ED406888F_zpszpw1lbaq.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/0E664F8A-37A2-452B-80A6-5C3ED406888F_zpszpw1lbaq.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/12B2A3AE-A5C5-464D-841F-BCF69436CE6F_zpsomgginhf.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/12B2A3AE-A5C5-464D-841F-BCF69436CE6F_zpsomgginhf.jpg.html)
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That looks great bapgood. The spring pin is a great idea.
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Nice going. It does look great. I will most likely have to cut them down also. What did you use to cut SS?
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Impressive. Well done bap :rockin smiley:
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Very beefy looking. The center pin is a great idea.
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Nice going. It does look great. I will most likely have to cut them down also. What did you use to cut SS?
Typically I just use my lathe. But on the first example I wanted to show it could be done without a lathe. So I chucked an old carto into my cordless drill and then screwed the connector on to the carto, then put a cutoff disk on my dremel stylus.....Then I ran the drill with my left hand and cut it off with the dremel in my right hand. You don't have to cut it off while turning it with the drill, I have just found its easier to cut straight and then you can also easily grind a little tapered lead in on the end after its cut off.
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Thanks for the pointers Bap.
Just opened my mail. Received 3.
Before I attempt to pop out the pin and insulator, anything I need to know before destroying anything?
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Thanks for the pointers Bap.
Just opened my mail. Received 3.
Before I attempt to pop out the pin and insulator, anything I need to know before destroying anything?
Not really....the 10mm outside threads are sharp....my fingers have a few cuts on them :laughing2:
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Thanks for the pointers Bap.
Just opened my mail. Received 3.
Before I attempt to pop out the pin and insulator, anything I need to know before destroying anything?
Actually they don't pop out, both are threaded.
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As bap said, everything is threaded - the center pin is threaded inside the insulator and the insulator is threaded inside the connector. So simply unscrew to take apart.
I just sent a contact to fatdaddyvapes and asked him if a 510 connector was doable similar to these thread repair kits. I also sent him the link you gave bap with the adjustable spring loaded center pin.
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As bap said, everything is threaded - the center pin is threaded inside the insulator and the insulator is threaded inside the connector. So simply unscrew to take apart.
I just sent a contact to fatdaddyvapes and asked him if a 510 connector was doable similar to these thread repair kits. I also sent him the link you gave bap with the adjustable spring loaded center pin.
You should also send him a pic of the brass collar. It makes it much easier to deal with instead of the little nub collar low on the pin.
Also when I make my own connectors I use 9mm x 0.5 pitch threads on the outside of the connector and make a nut using 7/16" brass hex stock and usually make a 1/2" to 5/8" diameter brass washer to solder the negative wire to. Because its kind of a pita to try to solder to the nut and then try to get a tool on it, or try soldering after its installed.
These were some I made with a brass threaded sleeve and screw for adjustment (pita!!!) but it show the other stuff I mentioned above.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/null_zps4d4bdf72.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/null_zps4d4bdf72.jpg.html)
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Thanks mamu, unscrew.. DOH.
The link for the spring was baps find
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Mamu
By chance was the request you sent to FatDaddy, the Craig's 510 connector?
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No, I asked if he would modify the 510 thread repair kit that he makes.
He got back to me and said:
I designed that to actually be a fit-all kind of insert. You can thread it
using an M10X1.5mm tap or use the brass ring to tighten it if the surface
is not thick enough. It can also be grinded from the top or the bottom as
needed.
I actually made a floating pin design but the spring that my manufacturer
keep on using looses tension with heat. So we dropped the product. i will
try to redo it and see where it takes us.
I will let you know.
Thanks for the support.
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Some requests were made on ECF on how they could make the brass collars with typical modding tools.
So here is a little how to for making the brass collar with a drill and Dremel
I didn't have 3/16" OD x 1/8" ID tubing so I used some 0.160" OD x 1/8" ID for the pics. I would recommend using something like this Brass Round Tubing, 3/16" OD, 0.1275" ID, 0.03" Wall, 12" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H9LHC4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn?tag=e04ed-20)
Start with cutting off a piece about 1" long. Chucking the tube in the drill and turning the tube with the drill and using an exacto knife makes quick work of deburring the end of the tube. Then I used a dremel carving bit to ream out the ID of the tube so the the pin just slides in snug. This bit just barely fit inside the 1/8" ID of the tube, so I put it inside the tube then started turning the drill and then turned on the dremel. An exacto knife or round file or etc would also accomplish the same thing.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/BD7478F8-D530-4C73-B8F9-25C0D1640796_zpssvdr5eol.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/BD7478F8-D530-4C73-B8F9-25C0D1640796_zpssvdr5eol.jpg.html)
Once I had the ID opened up I chucked the tube up with the amount I wanted turned down protruding from the jaws of the chuck. Turning the drill and using a cutoff wheel I ground down the OD of the tube, using the face of the chuck jaws as a stop. This could also be done using a file or etc. I would probably recommend using a file after grinding it down to smooth and flatten the surface. I take this portion down to the same diameter as the collar on the spring pin.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/3BE6C7CE-D3D2-410D-879E-A54CE3F193A6_zpssviv798y.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/3BE6C7CE-D3D2-410D-879E-A54CE3F193A6_zpssviv798y.jpg.html)
Then I rechucked the tube sticking out a little farther so I could cut it off using the dremel with cutoff wheel. I start spinning the tube with the drill and start in back a little bit with the dremel and work forward until I get to the spot I want. I do this because the dremel will bounce around a little bit starting. There are probably other more accurate ways to cut it off.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/F75F2A0A-41F5-4C0A-8AE7-03AC1A6ABDDE_zpsfmppcfsa.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/F75F2A0A-41F5-4C0A-8AE7-03AC1A6ABDDE_zpsfmppcfsa.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/50F4FAA3-EAD5-44F5-AA14-786A6AE7CC25_zpsohnrridr.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/50F4FAA3-EAD5-44F5-AA14-786A6AE7CC25_zpsohnrridr.jpg.html)
Once its cut off, the end was burred. This cleans up easily with an exacto knife.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/7879E728-CD1C-45CF-AC6F-ECC0E56392BB_zps32skx69m.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/7879E728-CD1C-45CF-AC6F-ECC0E56392BB_zps32skx69m.jpg.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/5D31F2BF-140D-4DF5-8447-E7A409363694_zpsmup8hca4.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/5D31F2BF-140D-4DF5-8447-E7A409363694_zpsmup8hca4.jpg.html)
Then I use the dremel with cutoff wheel to cut a couple of slots to solder the collar to the spring pin. I will probably buy some higher melting temp solder to use to solder the collar to the pin, that way I don't have to worry about it coming unsoldered when I solder on the wire to the end.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/2CE24B3B-F9FB-42D4-9591-1BD94469F262_zpsiy6tvfnt.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/2CE24B3B-F9FB-42D4-9591-1BD94469F262_zpsiy6tvfnt.jpg.html)
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Bap
Nicely done! Any thoughts of possibly using part of a two piece solid brass grommet? I've seen them in 1/8 inch size. Might save a bit of time.
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Bap
Nicely done! Any thoughts of possibly using part of a two piece solid brass grommet? I've seen them in 1/8 inch size. Might save a bit of time.
I'm sure there are several ways to make them. So whatever works for you is the best way IMO.
3/16" OD on the collar flange seems like a good size and still allows for a decent amount of material for the insulator.
The ones I made in the below pic, I made on my mini lathe using 3/16" solid rod.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/0E664F8A-37A2-452B-80A6-5C3ED406888F_zpszpw1lbaq.jpg) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/0E664F8A-37A2-452B-80A6-5C3ED406888F_zpszpw1lbaq.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the info Mamu
I'm wondering if CraigHB would have objection to inquiring if Fat Daddy would be interested in having his design manufactured? I've tried several shops and everybody seem to want an arm & leg. At the prices they've quoted I can see why China get a lot of business.
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The grommets were just food for thought for anyone looking to go that way. As they say more than one way to skin a, well you know! I like the looks of your lathe turned collar, but then I don't have a lathe! Yet!
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Yeah, it's crazy what machine shops charge for production runs, even the China ones. I honestly don't know how people get stuff done that sells for such a low retail price. There must be some kind of industry secret on how to get stuff made that cheap. If you can get those guys to make them cheap, go for it.
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Very Good! I'll see what he thinks. I'll let ya know when I know.
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Fat Daddy said he won't know anything till after the Chinese holidays over. Probably a week or two.
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Fat Daddy said he won't know anything till after the Chinese holidays over. Probably a week or two.
Thanks LF for the inquiry. Keep us informed. :thankyou:
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Talked to Fat Daddy today! The 510 connector is in the works! I suggested a couple of changes base on Craig's experience along with an adjustable center pin. Looking forward to the Chinese proto-type and will let you all know when something shows up. ;cheers;
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Can you all say WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!! Nice work!
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And he's considering using a knurled copper pin with a stationary piece that has a solder point for positive lead.....been talking to him too lol
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Yup! Thanks Kurtus I forgot to mention that. It'll be interesting to see what the turn around is.
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hahaha I had my wording f right up and had to look at my email, fixed it
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Yup! Thanks Kurtus I forgot to mention that. It'll be interesting to see what the turn around is.
I've asked him and he doesnt want to respond to the question so I don't think its going to happen really quick. Probably a few months at best but who knows for sure.
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No worries! Again, I'd like to thank Craig for the use of his plans.
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Yeah, he may have been feeling a little sketchy with more than one person asking about the same set of plans. He didn’t want to step on any bodies toes! I reassured his that he would be the one handling sales on his site so that anyone that wanted them could get them. Craig had made it clear he didn’t want to be on that end as a vendor. It’s a logical match with all the other items he carries. Personally I just want to have them available as it’ll help the entire modding family and I believe that’ll be a good thing!
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Yep big kudos to Craig for sure and thanks littlefeather, your on it and I'm leaving it at that but looking forward to seeing something soon for sure
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Very good. Thanks, probably better not to have too many cooks in the kitchen at once, lest the soup sours. I don't know if anybody else has contacted him about these. I believe I'll direct him to this thread just to alleviate any fears he may have and possibly quicken the process.
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No worries! Again, I'd like to thank Craig for the use of his plans.
You're welcome. If he makes them available, it will be a bonus for me too. I have a good stock of them, but if I ever run out, they'll be available for a lot less money and a lot less trouble than I went through to get them.
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Great news guys. Thanks Kurtus and Littlefeather and a special thanks to Craig.
If Fat Daddy see's the interest here, he may jump right on it. I know I'll be buying a bunch.
We may have to dedicate a thread just for the Fat Daddy 510's.
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I'm in for 4 sets for sure, have a bunch of locals bugging me to start building them dna30's so I will be buying a whole lot in the future for sure if things go well on this first small sample run. I'm ready to buy them today darn it lol
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Hey Folks!
Just got this in from Fat Daddy and wanted to run it by and see if anybody had any challenges with or a better idea. No pricing or availability at this time just need to make sure it'll be useable for our application. Better to have fresher eyes take a look. It has a floating pin incorporated. Let me know your thoughts!
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I wish I could help but it's all Greek to me.
Hoping some skilled person will jump in so this project gets going.
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Yeah I don't really know how to visualize this with the provided drawing either but if it works I say roll with it. If there is a tiny voltage drop due to the adjustability of the floating pin the dna will adjust for that anyways. I really hope this shows up sooner than later cause I am ready to buy a batch like now lol.
Does anyone know the over all dimensions of this as far as diameter and depth, just sort of curious if this will fit in my mods but I can't quite tell based on the images how it all goes together.
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I tried to compare Craig's drawing here http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,988.msg10030.html#msg10030 (http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,988.msg10030.html#msg10030) with Fat Daddy's and it just confused me :facepalm:
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Good at least I'm not alone here lol, the part thats confusing me the most is the bottom piece, looks like it holds the spring and all that into the connector but I can't tell how it will look. One thing that would be sweet is if the overall diameter could be brought up to 22mm or even 23mm to match kayfuns, tiafuns gennies etc. I mean we are not all drippers that use the dna or other box mods so having a flush fitting 510 all around would be nice. 22mm is ideal givin that the majority of atomizers are this big. Maybe this could be an option??
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I took a look and even modeled it up.
First there is a dependency in the drawing....which ends up being a fairly important
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/Screenshot-2_24_201410_01_53AM_zps88d11a62.png) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/Screenshot-2_24_201410_01_53AM_zps88d11a62.png.html)
Modeled up (I guessed at what I thought the above questioned dims should be.....and I didn't include the spring/2mm bolt/connection tabs/10mm nut)
You can see at my assumed dims that the pin floats between 4.25mm and 5mm. IMHO this should be 0.175" (~4.5mm) at the middle of the travel, which it is close to if my assumed dims are accurate.
It depends on the spring, but it looks like there is room for 1.5mm of travel compared to the .75mm shown.
If it were me I would increase the insulator ledge diameter to match the bottom brass part diameter.
On the main stainless housing I would suggest 12.5mm (0.492") diameter instead of 15mm. That way you could use a 1/2" counter bore or etc if you wanted to flush mount the connector.
It's all going to depend on the springs conductivity....it would be nice if the spring and brass parts were coated with a high conductive coating.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/Screenshot-2_24_201410_14_45AM_zpsd1622f7f.png) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/Screenshot-2_24_201410_14_45AM_zpsd1622f7f.png.html)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/bapgood1/Screenshot-2_24_201410_38_35AM_zpsa7c347fd.png) (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/bapgood1/media/Screenshot-2_24_201410_38_35AM_zpsa7c347fd.png.html)
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Great post baps, clears a lot up.
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Excellent work there baps. Thanks for your input
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Excellent work there baps. Thanks for your input
I'm down for a good solution as it will save me a bunch of time. I still like the spring pins, I tested them over the weekend and they came out right as specified 10mOhm.
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Hey Bap
Very nice drawing and comments! Echo's some of my concerns. Thanks for the better visuals. Wish I had your skills with that CAD. All good things in time.
Dang! Doh: Wish I’d waited a little more time but hadn’t heard or seen any additional ideas or suggestion and sent the following reply to Fat Daddy (Dennis) this morning with suggested changes from Craig.
“Hi Dennis
After looking at your drawing more this weekend something just didn’t seem right and it dawned on me that we’re trying to make this harder than it need be. I know you’re coming from the Mech Mod side of vaping that generally requires an adjustable pin that adjusts from the bottom of the 510 connector and we’re (box/custom modders) are looking for an adjustable pin on the top side of the 510 because we don’t have access to the bottom. While the threaded insulator sounded good I’m not sure it would be a benefit over the press-fit insulator with a small adjustable center screw inserted in the brass press-fit contact pin as shown. After all there’s not much if any torque required for the slotted screw driver adjustment at that point. While the floating pin idea sounds good I feel it entertains too many possible points of failure and a simpler mechanical screw would be more reliable.
As for Positive/Negative solder or connection points. Positive: we solder to bottom of the brass pin as there is little or no movement. I’ve made a change to the drawings for a bit deeper well (from 1.2mm to 1.6mm). Negative: we solder to the brass nut as soldering to SS is tough for most. As we’re not running Mech Mods soldering is legal. LOL!
I’d like to see this go with the 510 connector PDF I sent you with press-fit parts except for the threaded adjustable center pin on the brass contact post and the outside threads with brass nut on the connector base. There are a few changes that I’ve hand drawn and attached. I don’t do CAD type drawing. Can ya tell? LOL!
http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/Littlefeather_Design/library/?sort=3&page=1
One other change that didn’t make it on my excellent drawing is lowering the height of the insulator top from 1.6mm to 1.5mm.
With the changes I’ve mentioned I believe you’ll have a very popular and marketable 510 connector for both retail and wholesale modders and will make a lot of people very happy and make a nice addition to your product line.
Please advise.
Sincerely”
I haven’t heard back yet and will let you know when I do.
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I also ran across these knife makers rivets and thought they might be used with a little tap & die work to get an adjustable pin. I've got some on order and want to play with to see what I can do.
http://www.knifemaking.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=cutler+rivets
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Hey All
Talked with Dennis (Fat Daddy) today and he's aware of the wrong dimensions in the drawing. Thanks to Bap for the heads up.
We had a good chat and think you'll all be happy with the product to come. Don't have a exact timetable yet but will keep you advised.
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This is great news, Thank you. And thank you Baps
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Breaktru check your PM's. ;cheers;
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if you wanted to flush mount the connector.
That's exactly what I want, thanks for the suggestion! :thumbsup:
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Thought this might interest some of you here. Breaktru I hope this is OK to post here, if not let me know. There is a group buy running on Facebook for some stainless 510 connectors. (I am not the runner.) I slightly modified Craig's original design and came up with this. Includes 4 pieces, post, insulator, nickel plated stainless steel 304 base and 22mm well. The total is already at 750 and I'm sure it will fill up in no time. Again, if this is not allowed, let me know Breaktru. Thanks.
"MOQ is 1000
1000 = 1.75 Each
$1.75 base
$2.50 shipping
$2 incidentials
Includes bubble wrap envelopes and any other supplies
3% paypal fee
$6.55 Total for 1!
So if you wanted 2, it would be $1.75 each($3.50) plus $4.50 for a total of $8. * .03 = $.24. $7.50 + .24 is $7.74
Shipping will be first class no exceptions unless you have a very large quantity.
This is also being run in the DNA group.
I will take POPMONEY (paypal to those I trust and have dealt with before)
I will send Money Request or Invoices When we are Close to the MOQ
RULES: 1. You must fill out BOTH FORMS, if you do not do so, i will Automatically Drop you
2. Payment must be made within 48 hours of Request sent, or you will be dropped. DO NOT SIGN UP IF YOU DO NOT INTEND TO PAY!! follow !
3. NO MENTION OF ECIGS ON PAYPAL!!!!!!!
BOTH FORMS MUST BE FILLED OUT!
Sign up form:
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1mXfd4Od-TiB8CdBF2WQAJK2bHpOjiAvXZJ1BxHjWSu0/viewform
Payment form:
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Fapm_vaRPZXMTHRh9qSZv1dJHztbQCKN3zwyX38Ixbs/viewform
Responses:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Asfx9CVLNOx3dGFlMi1Ob0hrdUYyVTBzZTBzeURqekE&usp=drive_web#gid=0
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Who is this guy running the co-op? How do I know I can trust him?
I'm not comfortable using popmoney. I would rather use paypal.
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Who is this guy running the co-op? How do I know I can trust him?
I'm not comfortable using popmoney. I would rather use paypal.
^This
Also why is this so hard to understand
So if you wanted 2, it would be $1.75 each($3.50) plus $4.50 for a total of $8. * .03 = $.24. $7.50 + .24 is $7.74
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That's OK, I'll stick with what FatDaddy is(hopefully) doing. Sick of co-ops (might see the product in 9 months)
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I am just using the sealed 510 connectors and replacing the rubber grommet with these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261408834269?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
They cover the hole bottom length of the center pin and they just drop into the hole so no fiddling getting them in.
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I am just using the sealed 510 connectors and replacing the rubber grommet with these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261408834269?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
They cover the hole bottom length of the center pin and they just drop into the hole so no fiddling getting them in.
Thanks for the link Romelee, I've been using the black To220 insulator but they are a little to rigid.
I used one of the fastteck 510 top caps that you linked in my latest build, I'll post a photo of it later.
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Just found these! Replaces the crap silicone insulator on the 510 connector with a delrin one and includes a silver plated 510 pin. I'll definitely be ordering these soon!
(http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2100/b3c53/products/677/images/2385/IMG_0695__26262.1395211070.1280.1280.jpg)
http://www.avidvaper.com/510-connector-rigid-insulator-and-silver-plated-center-post/
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Just found these! Replaces the crap silicone insulator on the 510 connector with a delrin one and includes a silver plated 510 pin. I'll definitely be ordering these soon!
Interesting.
Still leaves the dreaded thread wear problem though
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The Delrin insualtor helps for sure though. Though it's not tolerant to soldering. Thread wear is not always a problem, depends on how much you remove and replace your atomizer. Still it's always better to have something you know will never wear out.
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Any news on the spring loaded 510 connector being made by fatdaddy?
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BTW, nice design on the 510 connector Craig. I was fixing to ask you if I could use your design and have a machine shop make me some but then I stumbled across this thread and I like the modified version of your design with the spring loaded center pin that bapgood implemented and I'm looking for this exact connector for my prototype DNA 30 Wood box mod for production. ;cheers;
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Wow, did this thread come to a halt?
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Wow, did this thread come to a halt?
I think they are waiting on Fatdaddy for an update :Thinking:
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Stainless
Cheap
2 choices
Wewt!
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005381/1565103
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005381/1589801
I ordered one of the $9.00 ones to check out, will report back on quality of threading.
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spring loaded 510 now available from http://fatdaddyvapes.com
https://www.facebook.com/fatdaddyvapes/posts/573586739426050
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That's awesome, how the hell did he get them made cheap enough to sell for $5, a bargain at twice the price.
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I heard that he had around 2600 made so that could be why.
I picked up 3 to try out, can't wait to see how they are.
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That's a big number, but even with that quantity the price is still amazing.
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Hi everybody! First time talking here.. lot of time reading and learning and reading again.. I´m spanish, so my english it´s not so good. It´s not easy for me to write nor learning.
I want to say thank you to all of you for your information and schematics, etc.. Breaktru, CraigHB, Visus, Mamu, etc, etc.. Everybody.
Thanks Breaktru for this great forum, your great posts, your schematics. CraigHB.. your knowledge is amazing! And I just ordered 2 of yor connectors :begging:
I did never solder or did nothing with electronics, and now I´m about finshing an okr-t10 mod. I hope soon i´ll post some fotos. And I hope someday maybe i´ll help someone else to make one.
Thankyou again ! ;cheers;
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I heard that he had around 2600 made so that could be why.
I picked up 3 to try out, can't wait to see how they are.
Actually he has another 5000 on the way so that would explain the cost.
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Dumb question, but does he say anywhere what the body is made of? I can see what is brass, and I'm assuming the body is stainless, but I don't see it mentioned anywhere...
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I was told it's 303 Stainless Steel for the body of the 510 connector.
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Hi everybody! First time talking here.. lot of time reading and learning and reading again.. I´m spanish, so my english it´s not so good. It´s not easy for me to write nor learning.
I want to say thank you to all of you for your information and schematics, etc.. Breaktru, CraigHB, Visus, Mamu, etc, etc.. Everybody.
Thanks Breaktru for this great forum, your great posts, your schematics. CraigHB.. your knowledge is amazing! And I just ordered 2 of yor connectors :begging:
I did never solder or did nothing with electronics, and now I´m about finshing an okr-t10 mod. I hope soon i´ll post some fotos. And I hope someday maybe i´ll help someone else to make one.
Thankyou again ! ;cheers;
Glad to have you here on the forum.
Looking forward to seeing your mod posted
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I was told it's 303 Stainless Steel for the body of the 510 connector.
In for 4 then!
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Yep, just ordered 3. I guess my build can wait until next weekend...
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I ordered 7 of them to start out with and I'll order more later
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Wow both the 510 inserts & new spring loaded connectors from fatdaddyapes are sold out.
Modified 510 inserts:
* Brass machine screw - 6-32 x 3/4"
* Spring - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KSOIXW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
* Washer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYWSO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
* O-ring - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D8A3IM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(http://i.imgur.com/0zeEVkL.jpg)
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I got my 4 in from fatdaddy last week, I haven't really had a chance to use them yet, but upon inspection, they look NICE. Solid, well machined, threads nicely chased, attention to detail is a 10.
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http://www.thehouseofvapor.com/product_p/2831.htm
Just found those today if you need ones before FDV has them back in.
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Fatdaddy has them back in stock yall!
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There is another spring loaded connector now available
http://www.varitube.com/510-Connector--Spring-Loaded-Center-Pin_p_141.html
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Hay guys. I know I'm a little late to the party on these But do you think either of the fat daddy 510s could be converted for bottom feeding. I would really like to use the one with the washer on it as I think it would be the most simple to convert. How ever I'm not sure i could fit it in a drip cup very well. Unless it would work without one. I have converted the cheap 510s from mad vapes but was looking for something a bit nicer and longer lasting this time. I found these but they are out of stock and there is no ETA on restock. http://www.thehouseofvapor.com/product_p/2831.htm (http://www.thehouseofvapor.com/product_p/2831.htm)
any help or impute is appreciated. thanks
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No one?