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An input capacitance must be placed directly adjacent to the input pin of the module, to minimize input ripple voltage and ensure module stability.
Great job and a very nice controller. I've seen that one before. As a matter fact I sent for a free sample a couple of years ago but never received it.That's strange that not using the on/off pin would drop the output voltage. Anyway it's a good thing using it with the zener for cut-off. Well done mamu
That's a pretty cool module. I looked over that data sheet a bit. Output is impressive. It does need input capacitors. It doesn't carry those onboard, look at page 12 of the data sheet;I actually have the same input capacitance requirement for the buck-boost converter I'm working on. I'm using 2x22uF MLCC caps. These are the best ones I've found, really nice characteristics. Data sheet says to leave the on/off pin floating if not using it so it shouldn't have any affect on output. Maybe you should try tying that pin to Vin instead and see if that makes any difference.
I added an external 18A fuse (2x 9A in parallel)
Great info to know!! Thanks so much Craig!! You didn't mention if the value changes when paralleling caps, so I assume it doesn't change. Paralleling caps decreases ESR and also ESL, but does not change the caps value - 2x 22uF or 4x 22uF is still 22uF, correct?
Great mod I was thinking of using a voltage display as a battery voltage check but wasn't sure how to wire it so thanks for the details.
...So did the input caps resolve that strange issue with the on/off pin and variations in voltage?
Looks like a good high output mod for running those super low resistance atties. Don't understand why people are saying it's not possible to do that at ECF. You can design things to do whatever you want, just a matter of selecting the right parts. The problem comes from using the wrong parts, that's when it can be hazardous.So did the input caps resolve that strange issue with the on/off pin and variations in voltage?Totally OT here, but I just got back from visiting inlaws over Xmas in Los Angeles, stayed in Seal Beach. Nice to get away from the cool temps here in Reno. Have to mention, it really was beautiful at the beach, best weather ever, like summer almost.
...there's a new ultra-high drain cell from LG that came out. It supposedly has 2500mAh and 12 mOhms internal resistance which blows all the rest out of the water. I've only seen it once on a web listing and I'm not postiive on the details, but if that's correct, it's a pretty big jump in performance.
LOL Visus - you're talking to deaf ears there - I won't ever buy another Efest batt. pos pos pos
LiPos do that, they puff up if you over-discharge them. In general, a puffy LiPo is a bad LiPo. I've had them do that a little bit even with normal wear over extended periods of time. They can take some abuse, but for sure they don't like being over-dischaged too deeply.They do peform well. They don't have the best energy density of the Li-Ion types, but they deliver energy better than most of the others.I thought the eFast batteries where decent, but it seems people have their issues with them. I guess that's an avoid on those. Doesn't surprise me though, it's always a bad sign when makers fudge the ratings, which they do to an extent on the eFest batteries.
I got the ones I ordered today.
For those testing the LG 2500 mah batts (LGDAHE21865).....the actual model number is LG ICR18750HE2 and are rated as a 20A discharge batt, not 30A....according to my source.There's no data yet on the net showing that model number, so maybe somebody has some time to check on LG's commercial battery site, assuming there is one....like Panasonic's?My distribution source has these in stock right now ($4.60/ea unit price) and I'm also trying to get the same IMR's that AW uses.