Author Topic: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter... (Read 383502 times)

jrweber02 · « **Reply #250 on:** July 13, 2014, 08:45:04 PM »

Ok ive givin up on the search for 200ohm digital pot but quick question or request does anyone have a demonstration photo of how to wire the fets in the current update mamu posted for non rated switch

Ray450R · « **Reply #251 on:** July 15, 2014, 01:29:11 AM »

Hi guys and ladies....I am building with a okr-t10 and I'm looking for the right mosfet for reverse polarity protection. It has to be small to fit my enclosure. Thanks

CraigHB · « **Reply #252 on:** July 15, 2014, 08:26:01 AM »

deleted

CraigHB · « **Reply #253 on:** July 15, 2014, 08:57:46 AM »

deleted - hmm, having problems today

jrweber02 · « **Reply #254 on:** July 15, 2014, 09:22:25 PM »

onefstsnake · « **Reply #255 on:** July 16, 2014, 01:11:02 AM »

First Post here. Awesome how to discussion you have here.
I just wish I could find some reasonably priced Naos chips. Ebay is exploding with them but at $30+ a piece.

I will still be building one. Might build a OKR T10 first though, seems a bit more simple.

CraigHB · « **Reply #256 on:** July 16, 2014, 02:43:09 AM »

The Raptor is interesting with the unusually high output, but few people would actually use it other than to say they did it. I'm sure an OKR-T/10 can provide any amount of power you would want to regularly vape with. If not, you're one of a very small number of vapers who actually has a need for more than 50 Watts.

Welcome to the forum, BTW

onefstsnake · « **Reply #257 on:** July 16, 2014, 03:23:24 AM »

My current mech mod build is right around 60w. I doubt I'll go much higher than that. I'd rather have the extra wattage and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Kinda like why does anyone need a 600hp car.

I'll build the 60w okr t10 first and go from there.
Thanks for the welcome.

Visus · « **Reply #258 on:** July 16, 2014, 04:18:28 AM »

600hp pfft
The bar is @ 1200hp for street cred your still back in 2001 lol
Granma's Caddy a roll over ya @600hp dont let her pull out her Benz

The okr is rated @60 watts but will easily do 100watts, it's suggested rating is that of efficiency. They tell ya on the data sheet its current limited @19amps.

The raptor is efficient at 90+watts, the okr is dumping spilling all kinds of gas over the hwy.. But yeah it will do it.
Meh Raptor Okr, Ti 08100, Okl, Lynx, they garner bragginz rights is all, the Okr t6 or the Ti 8060 are awesome too..

Newcomers always start in these huge dangerous build threads and wanna build em
The questions asked and answered, mod page should be littered with new builds but not see to many..

Howdy

Iamthebadass · « **Reply #259 on:** July 22, 2014, 02:20:08 AM »

Having a problem.

I have built 15 or so of these without issue, but this one is new for me.

The chip only fires at 6v, when I adjust down, anywhere below 6v on the pot, nothing happens.

I'm at a loss, everything looks fine. Any ideas?

deleon209 · « **Reply #260 on:** July 23, 2014, 11:40:00 PM »

NEED HELP ASAP. I got everything setup correctly and have broken it down and rebuilt and resoldered at least 5 times. I need help to see what im doing wrong. Here are some pics showing what I have.
It shows the battery input voltage with the meter but doesnt show output ever when switched to that on slide. Please help this has been killing me for days lol

http://imgur.com/a/8vSIh

mamu · « **Reply #261 on:** July 24, 2014, 05:00:23 AM »

Quote from: Iamthebadass on July 22, 2014, 02:20:08 AM

Having a problem.

I have built 15 or so of these without issue, but this one is new for me.

The chip only fires at 6v, when I adjust down, anywhere below 6v on the pot, nothing happens.

I'm at a loss, everything looks fine. Any ideas?

Maybe a pot issue or a board issue. You checked the pot ohm range?

Quote from: deleon209 on July 23, 2014, 11:40:00 PM

NEED HELP ASAP. I got everything setup correctly and have broken it down and rebuilt and resoldered at least 5 times. I need help to see what im doing wrong. Here are some pics showing what I have.
It shows the battery input voltage with the meter but doesnt show output ever when switched to that on slide. Please help this has been killing me for days lol

http://imgur.com/a/8vSIh

Link or part number to the voltmeter switch you're using? Is it on/off/on? Did you wire Vout to one outer leg, voltmeter positive to middle leg, and Vin to remaining outer leg?

deleon209 · « **Reply #262 on:** July 24, 2014, 08:27:46 PM »

It's the same volt meter you recommend. But the real problem is even without the switch and voltmeter it won't fire. I used a reg fire button a good one and nothing but I have that one that's a push button on and off so it can fire if connected properly. Yes everything is wired perfect exact to the pic you posted. It fired at first with no volt meter so then I disconnected to put it in box and shorten the wires and then when I reconnected it all it wouldn't fire at all. First I got a buzzing noise when trying then it stopped and just didn't fire at all. I've tried 3 different pots that all work fine. It's not the 510 because I tested it in another box I made and it works fine so I'm just really confused. I built a OKL t20 no problem it was pretty easy so I know what I'm doing its just this doesn't make sense at all. This is the second raptor chip I've tried. I figured it was a bad chip and built a second one and used all new parts and same end result.. Nothing no firing. Please help and look at my pics.

Thanks in advance

deleon209 · « **Reply #263 on:** July 24, 2014, 08:34:18 PM »

Yes it is on/Off/on it shows battery voltage but when switched over to the other side shows nothing and obviously doesn't fire

Breaktru · « **Reply #264 on:** July 24, 2014, 08:43:08 PM »

Ah ha. Buzzing sound is an indication of not enough input voltage.
Perhaps bad batteries, poor wiring from batteries to input of converter board.

Put your DMM and measure the voltage across your series batteries at the battery holder while firing w/ a load.
Then measure voltage at the converter board input while firing w/ a load.
Jump out/bypass your PTC fuses.

deleon209 · « **Reply #265 on:** July 26, 2014, 06:17:42 PM »

yea i can feel the atty its hot but nothing is firing

tumbafox · « **Reply #266 on:** August 03, 2014, 10:01:12 PM »

Please guys, I am in over my head. There will never be a retail market for this. My lungs burn at 30 watts on my IPV50 Pioneer Yihi sx-330 upped to 50 watts with touch sensor firing.

We are extreme hobbyists. Whether is is mamu, Imgur Reddit or any one. I have all the parts and even bought the last Raptor Chip from Digi Key and I haven't even opened the electrostatic bag.

All I need is a knob for my 220 pot. I have the shaft. and every thing else except an enclosure. I have the volt indicator and want to use the master power on/off switch option.

I will agree to any non disclosure you want. Sigelei does not even know if the 100 Watt version will go into production and suppliers are taking money from people against FTC trade rules on pre-sales. So they are taking money in advance for a product which if ever produced will cost way less than they are retailing it. I'm thinking of just selling the parts I have from Mouser and Digi-Key and Amazon. I haven't touched anything yet.

What should I do? If you want to laugh the funniest YouTube on vaping is 2 minutes long titled "vaping at 400 watts". The guy is using the Fogger large herbal vaporizer. Nuts right. People at most will go the the ego or spinner style if they don't want a blu or fuse. Regular folks just want to smoke.

We are hobbyists no money to be make here and open source sharing is what got us from the original 510 160 MaH dripping to where we are now.

I will be grateful to anyone who helps point me in the right direction. I have spent about $80.00 for the parts which includes two Raptor chips. This is driving me nuts. If you look me up on ECF same name tumbafox, I posted the first thread proposing a slimmer diameter spring loaded center pin atty connection several years ago to stop folks from crushing the seal separating pin from the negative housing and the techies took it from there. Now we have the great fat daddy 510 connector.

Kanger just delivered a blow to the sub ohm RBA/RDA stampede by selling a sub ohm replacement core for the Aero and Protank lines. That is better than the russian 91% in my opinion. The tape is perfect from 1st draw until change out. So why get a russian of $90.00

HELP!!!!

Stuart Goltzman

EDITED BY ADMIN:
REMOVED TELEPHONE # AND EMAIL ADDRESS

deleon209 · « **Reply #267 on:** August 03, 2014, 11:20:31 PM »

ummmmm

tumbafox · « **Reply #268 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:20:11 AM »

Although I am a newbie on this forum, I have been a newbie on this forum, I have been vaping since 2009 and modding for the last 2 years.
The Yidi and DNA Chips are no brainers although I don't understand why for another dollar in parts the DNA chips did not have reverse polarity protection on the clone chips.

But I have never seen anything like the raptor chip.

Ummmmm is probably the best answer I am going to get.

I will say to all you sub-ohm vapers that Kanger just came out with a wick and coil 5 pack for the Aero and protank series which are awesume off the shelf products although playing with different wick and coil designs is fun.

Visus · « **Reply #269 on:** August 04, 2014, 09:06:47 AM »

Howdy Tumba

The best I can tell is build at least one raptor you went thru the hassle of purchasing.
I know that 330 mod is awesome but so is the raptor..
Having two high powered mods will be awesome..

Yeah those subohm drop in coils are awesome but they will never be better than homemade coils only slightly match them lol
Problem is those type atomizers do not have enough airhole for those very low resistance coils IMO and people will think that what subohming is

With the right set-up 30 watts and your lungs burned --something is not right, no way will your lungs burn when all thing set-up proper..

karadorde · « **Reply #270 on:** August 04, 2014, 02:09:50 PM »

Quote from: jrweber02 on July 13, 2014, 08:45:04 PM

Ok ive givin up on the search for 200ohm digital pot but quick question or request does anyone have a demonstration photo of how to wire the fets in the current update mamu posted for non rated switch

Reference using a digital potentiometer with the Raptor. I have been talking to some people and trying to do some research. I don't know if you can find a pot that low, but I know someone has used a quad 1000 ohm in parallel and an additional resistor in series to achieve the proper voltage range (3.0 to 6.2). The only possible downside is that they are using a microcontroller in their project, so it may or may not be possible without said controller. I am continuing my research, I will report back if I can make any headway.

CraigHB · « **Reply #271 on:** August 04, 2014, 05:09:43 PM »

Being able to vape with high power levels is all in the atomizer. You can't just crank up any atomizer and get it to work well. I was not aware that there were sub-Ohm heads available. If used in the atomizers where heads are typically used, there's no way they'll ever work well unless you use a regulated mod that can run down the voltage or power.

There's no away around the 200 Ohm pot requirement. You can parallel a higher value pot with a resistor to get the right range (or run any other combination), but it becomes non-linear. At one end of the scale, small adjustments make big changes in voltage and at the other end of the scale large adjustments make small changes in voltage.

I do find it odd they design these modules for a low resistance like that. The design intention is to use a fixed resistor for a fixed voltage output, but even so, a higher resistance even for a fixed value would make more sense.

Feedback for voltage adjustment on any type of regulator always uses a voltage divider. I have yet to see one that doesn't. That resistance you add off the board is the bottom end of the divider. It may be possible to figure out which resistor on the board is the top one. In that case you could replace it with a higher value to allow the use of a higher value pot. It would take a brave soul to experiment considering the cost and limited availability of these modules. You could trash one pretty easy screwing around with that.

Breaktru · « **Reply #272 on:** August 04, 2014, 05:48:25 PM »

Almost 3 yrs ago I put a digital pot in my Side x Side mod which has a PTR08100w which requires a 200 ohm pot.
On a 10K D.P. I had to parallel an 18 ohm between the wiper and R_L. Got a output range of 2.05V to 5.66V. That's a range I had to settle on to get it working. Not favorable but tolerable.
Linearity doesn't exist so adjusting sucks but it is possible.
See: Side x Side

Visus · « **Reply #273 on:** August 04, 2014, 06:21:06 PM »

Ya Craig they just hit the market .8's some stores have the .5's
Reviews on the underground say you get one or two very good vapes then dry no matter where you dial the airflow.
Meh' vaping on some local homemade apple jack, bought at local corner store he buys silly stuff for me and a few other vapers OMG its great
just had to tell someone

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004861/1770002-authentic-dual-coil-unit-for-kanger-clearomizer-5

tumbafox · « **Reply #274 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:05:51 PM »

The new Kanger .5 and .8 replacement coils work great for me on my aerotank. No problem with my Vision VV 1300 mah Ego style battery.

The battery has a dial that goes from 3.2 to 4.8 volts and I am having no problem with them on the Vision VV or Seigelei 20 or IPV V2 50 Watts

At .8 they There is no readout on the Vision VV but if you do the math 4.8/.8 squared times .8 equals 28.8 watts and the vision battery takes it without even getting hot. I don't know if the Vision is regulating it to some lower voltage but its a nice pull.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #275 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:20:15 PM »

That's because the vision isn't putting out 4.8V. It has an amp limit and will only put out voltages that don't go over that limit.

CraigHB · « **Reply #276 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:22:40 PM »

Quote from: tumbafox on August 04, 2014, 07:05:51 PM

No problem with my Vision VV 1300 mah Ego style battery.

Actually lots of problems;

Spinners and Twists are not rated for resistance under 1.5 Ohms. It overloads the electronics and the cell in them as well. At best, it will greatly increase the likelihood of electronics failure. At worst, it could cause the cell in them to overheat and ignite (those are only 2C cells in those).

Those e-cigs are limited to about 10 maybe 12 Watts so even if you're cranking it all the way up, it's not putting out like a mod that can properly power resistances that low.

This is one of the big problems with e-cigs. There's lots of things you can do wrong with them and some may impact safety. When they sell these e-cig parts, there's really nothing that ensures people understand what they are doing when attempting to run high power levels.

Until there's a safe Li-Ion battery that is fireproof, safety is going to be a consideration. Keep in mind, an e-cig is something that spends a lot of time right next to your face. If these dual carbon Li-Ion batts deliver as advertised and actually make it to market, it may eliminate all of the safety concerns with e-cigs. Until then, be careful.

tumbafox · « **Reply #277 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:37:36 PM »

I agree its not smart to use the spinner but the Aerotank works on my IPV50 set to 50 watts at 6.6 volts and .8 ohms when I hit the fire button. The taste is aweful

At what resistance would you recommend for a good 120 watt hit?

Dont get me wrong I love my Russian but sometimes its not practical to do a recoil when your out and about.

Please bear with me but I am new to this forum

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #278 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:54:09 PM »

For a good 120W hit you need plenty of airflow and plenty of juice flow. That means a decent dripper, probably drilled out with dual coils for a total ohmage of about .6 (at 8.4V). Coils should be pretty heavy gauge or twisted lighter gauge and about 3mm internal diameter. You'll only need to take short, hard draws but you'll get intense flavour and tons of vapour.

CraigHB · « **Reply #279 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:59:19 PM »

Initially the point of a sub-Ohm coil was to enable the power levels out of a mech you can get with a regulated mod.

A power level for a typical vaper may be something like 12 Watts. Most people don't actually vape with power levels much higher than that. With a 2 Ohm atomizer, you can can that at a setting of 5V. However, at battery voltage you need an atomizer about half that.

Power levels can be taken to the extreme which I don't see the need for myself. People have their reasons I suppose, but it's not something I would ever recommend to anybody.

You don't necessarily need a sub-Ohm atomizer to achieve extreme power levels. You can get 50W with an OKR-T/10 running series cells and that's pretty extreme in my book. You can do that with a one Ohm atomizer no problem. A 120 Watt Raptor can put out the max with an atomizer as high as a half Ohm. To do that at battery voltage requires a ridiculously low resistance of a tenth Ohm.

So it depends on what you're using to power the atomizer. If you're using a 120 Watt Raptor, you can use a wide range of resistances to get those extreme power levels. If using a mech with an 18650, you need an extremely low resistance to achieve those power levels.

In any case, I'm not a subscriber to those crazy high power outputs. I vape at a level probably higher than most, but I just don't see the benefit in going any higher than 30 Watts. I can't do it anyway because I get overwhelmed by too much vapor if I try to use power levels higher than that. I can do builds that keep the vapors cool enough, but for me, there is such a thing as too much vapor.

_tek_ · « **Reply #280 on:** August 07, 2014, 01:48:06 AM »

Quote from: mamu on December 26, 2013, 07:16:27 PM

...

I have a Raptor box, wired similar to this. The master on/off switch is on the ground, instead of the positive lead. No reverse polarity protection, and the creator didn't wire in any fuses. He originally had a 7.5k resistor between the on/off remote and gnd, but I've replaced it with a 4.7k one.

I'm hoping someone here can help me out. The mods 510 connector (old school fat daddy) started to unscrew on me and the positive Vout lead broke free from the center pin. I cracked the box open to re-solder that down, which worked fine, attys fire again. But now they are ALWAYS firing, auto-firing. I saw someone in the thread mention needing to drop the resister to a 4.7k, which I've done, in hopes that was the issue. Alas, it did not resolve my problem.

I've also tested the 5.6v zener, and it reads close to the rated 5.6v under load.

Sorry for being a noob, I'm a software developer and I'm trying to get more in to hardware. I have built a DNA30 successfully, but that is a bit easier IMHO.

Anyone have any ideas?! I don't how much longer I will make it without my Raptor

P.S. - I've tried with, and without, the fire button hooked up. I know this chip is ALWAYS ON, but the button that has been used here is NO (off -> on), which is backward from what I had expected.

P.S.S - Logic Low readings are within range, 0.37 volts (under the max of 0.4) and current is 67.6 (under the 200 max), so it should be OFF, but it's not.

P.S.S.S - well, F me in the A! I just accidentally put the batteries in backward, fried the damn board

CraigHB · « **Reply #281 on:** August 07, 2014, 05:35:34 PM »

Quote from: _tek_ on August 07, 2014, 01:48:06 AM

P.S.S.S - well, F me in the A! I just accidentally put the batteries in backward, fried the damn board

Well that sucks. You need reverse polarity protection in some capacity for any regulated mod with removable cells. That wasn't the best diagram to follow.

Welcome to the forum BTW

Sorry it's with sad news on your part.

Breaktru · « **Reply #282 on:** August 07, 2014, 05:54:53 PM »

Welcome to the forum _tek_
Wow _tek_, that really sucks. Sorry to hear about the board

_tek_ · « **Reply #283 on:** August 07, 2014, 06:40:45 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on August 07, 2014, 05:54:53 PM

Welcome to the forum _tek_
Wow _tek_, that really sucks. Sorry to hear about the board

Thanks man, I just ordered another one from eBay.

~~I have 2 of everything I need in my shopping cart on Mouser... Except P-FEt, not sure which one to order! Anyone know the right specs needed there?~~

I should look harder ;-) SI7157DP <- Just can't find them in stock. Anyone have a comparable part #? Thanks!

_tek_ · « **Reply #284 on:** August 07, 2014, 06:41:27 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on August 07, 2014, 05:54:53 PM

Welcome to the forum _tek_
Wow _tek_, that really sucks. Sorry to hear about the board

I'm hoping the one I've ordered won't auto-fire as this one was. I still never figured that out, Logic was within spec for both high and low $:-\$

_tek_ · « **Reply #285 on:** August 07, 2014, 06:46:15 PM »

I'm also adding resettable fuses in the new build, basically I want to add all the protection that was missing

mamu · « **Reply #286 on:** August 07, 2014, 07:29:04 PM »

I've been using this P-FET for reverse polarity with my builds - D-PAK size: IPD042P03L3 G

And these strap fuses (2x in parallel): MF-LR900/20-0

_tek_ · « **Reply #287 on:** August 07, 2014, 08:15:28 PM »

Quote from: mamu on August 07, 2014, 07:29:04 PM

I've been using this P-FET for reverse polarity with my builds - D-PAK size: IPD042P03L3 G

And these strap fuses (2x in parallel): MF-LR900/20-0

Found these in stock on DigiKey, thanks Mamu!

shinzoku7 · « **Reply #288 on:** August 08, 2014, 06:54:11 AM »

hey Mamu could you possibly post a photo of what the nfet wiring looks like, i can follow your diagram but i get lost with the end connections for it and the location that the 47k res should be, im waiting on all the parts and want to make sure i can use the non rated switch i have as a master, any info is helpful, thanks in advance.

mamu · « **Reply #289 on:** August 08, 2014, 03:49:16 PM »

You don't have to use an N-FET in order to use a non-rated master switch. Just insert the master switch between Source of the P-FET and fire switch instead of between the Drain of the P-FET and fuse in the original diagram. A master switch between Source and fire switch takes advantage of the low current at the on/off control so you don't need a rated master switch. But there is still idle current drain from on/off control as it doesn't disconnect power so all it does is prevent firing of the atty.

Here's the wiring for the N-FET... the master switch still doesn't disconnect power, but it does eliminate the idle current drain from on/off control plus prevents firing of the atty...

onefstsnake · « **Reply #290 on:** August 08, 2014, 10:20:31 PM »

Someone mind checking over this parts list?
Want to make sure I got all this right the first time.

P.S. I left out the 1s-6s display since ill be getting that elsewhere. Also, the PFET recommended is OOS, any replacements? I may not even use one. And 2 different pots to play with.

Thanks

shinzoku7 · « **Reply #291 on:** August 08, 2014, 11:55:29 PM »

Mamu you rock you are like a god with this set up, im a stickler for batt life and when i work i like to turn off my mods and the negligible idle drain is something i really wanted to do, you thank you a ton

cliff p · « **Reply #292 on:** August 10, 2014, 08:51:20 AM »

Morning everyone.

Buit my raptor mod rather shoddy last night as a proof of concept, and now I plan to desolder everything, clean it up, and go with a smaller gauge solid copper wire, similar to cat5/6 strands. I'm going to stick with 18ga for the 510 connector. Do you guys feel the solid core copper is enough for the circuitry?

Breaktru · « **Reply #293 on:** August 10, 2014, 09:31:43 AM »

Anything directly from the battery (+) to Vin, battery (-) to Gnd Pin and Vout to the 510 requires hvy wire such as your 18ga wire.
Everything else can be lighter gauge such as your solid cat 5/6 wire.

cliff p · « **Reply #294 on:** August 10, 2014, 10:56:09 AM »

Thanks

. Now I have to go find another mofset because I broke the center leg off of the only one I ordered

cliff p · « **Reply #295 on:** August 10, 2014, 11:10:21 AM »

In theory, I could just do without the p channel MOSFET as long as I mark the battery holder with the correct battery orientation to ensure I don't install the batteries backwards, no? From the schematic it seems that its only there for reverse polarity protection. (Sorry if this is covered elsewhere)

_tek_ · « **Reply #296 on:** August 10, 2014, 11:12:50 AM »

Quote from: cliff p on August 10, 2014, 11:10:21 AM

In theory, I could just do without the p channel MOSFET as long as I mark the battery holder with the correct battery orientation to ensure I don't install the batteries backwards, no? From the schematic it seems that its only there for reverse polarity protection. (Sorry if this is covered elsewhere)

Yep, that's all, but I just fried my chip 2 days ago putting batts in backward, just a simple slip and now it's gone :-( my new chip will arrive tomorrow and you better bet your ads I have 2 Mosfets right here in front of me ;-)

CraigHB · « **Reply #297 on:** August 10, 2014, 06:47:45 PM »

Quote from: cliff p on August 10, 2014, 10:56:09 AM

Now I have to go find another mofset because I broke the center leg off of the only one I ordered

Hehe, never order just one of anything.

You might be tempted to say, "well, I'll just be careful." I've found after years of doing stuff with electronics, that never works. If it's possible to hook something up incorrectly, I'll invariably do it at some point.

Don't neglect reverse polarity protection unless you are using non-removable cells that eliminate the possibility.

cliff p · « **Reply #298 on:** August 10, 2014, 06:51:26 PM »

I ordered replacements already

. I was going to go to RadioShack but then I remembered how much they've changed in 20 years, and how unlikely they are to have the p channel MOSFET that's required.

I wish there were an electronics hobby store near me.

As an aside, I also ordered a fuse block for micro buss fuses. It'll hold two fuses so it should be a clean little compartment

CraigHB · « **Reply #299 on:** August 10, 2014, 07:04:48 PM »

Brick and mortar electronics shops are going pretty much by the wayside now. There was one in my town, it's gone now. These days you pretty much have to order things online.

It sucks you can't just run out and buy stuff when you need it, but on the other hand, you don't waste time and money fetching parts. Then the selection is vast from places like Mouser, Digikey, Newark, etc.

When I used to buy from B&M shops years ago, there were times they didn't have what I need in stock. That almost never happens with the big online shops.