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I've just had a quick look and everything seems fine judging by milo's instructions.The good thing about making your own is that you can change the design if you wish.I'm in the UK and I use Perspex quite a lot, I get mine from kitronik.
For the most part, you can build Milo with different parts or even a different enclosure to suit what you need. The ego connector will be aok in Milo. And the window tint spray is what I used before switching to tinted acrylic.It's absolutely awesome to vape with a mod you've built yourself. Happy modding and enjoy the venture!!
Perfect Romelee!With that depth of 27mm for the case, you'll be able to fit 2x 1200mAh batts for a total of 2400mAh. You'll really like that for longer vape time than with a single 1200mAh batt.When working with cutouts for the case and using a dremel, just turn the speed down a bit so you don't warp or melt the plastic. For the rectangular cutout for the DNA display, you can make it nice and tidy and square up the edges by using needle files. Working with plastic is so much easier than working with aluminum.With that width of 48mm, you have a few design layouts you could think about.You can do the front and center triangle layout like with Stealthy where the DNA board rests on top of the batts, or you can do the side layout like I did with my eclipse where the batts are positioned on one side and the DNA and buttons are all positioned along the other side.
...With the highlighted hole is there anyway a charging light can be put there for when the USB cable is attached? And also how is it conntected, i pressume on the USB charger not the DNA20 board.
Last but not least as i have changed the supplier for the following items i am still unsure of the specs, could you confirm they would work fine:3 x Tactile switches£1.52 for 5 (minimum order)http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/0102383/2 x PTC resettable fuses 30v, 3A£0.38 for 10 (minimum order)http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/resettable-wire-ended-fuses/5176821/
p.s Deffo now gonna use 2 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts now that you say that they will fit, more longer lasting battery the better
Again many thanks for your help on this, you have helped me greatly and is much appreciated
...First off, i have changed my mind on the box as the small ones turned up and i didn't like them, just didn't feel right so i have ordered this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005T95KMK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1st: The fuses have two legs on each, once all soldered together in parallel does it matter what leg the red wire is attached too?
2nd: You mention on the guide: De-solder and remove the on-board tactile fire button, i take it that this is not going to be of any use anymore as the new tactile button replaces this?
3rd: On your guide you mention:C. Wire the 24g yellow wire to the down wattage control pins.D. Wire the 24g white wire to the up wattage control pins.(Ignoring the fire button) Judging by your picture with the wires in place the yellow is above the white so that would be top button to turn down wattage and bottom button to turn up the wattage, does it have to be this way as i would prefer the top button to up the wattage (white) and bottom button to lower the wattage (yellow)
4th: On your guide you mention:You only need 2 legs of the 4 legs on each button. Cut the 2 legs not neededclose to the button's body. Straighten the remaining 2 legs.Does it matter what legs of each button i use?
5th: Last but not least, i have some 3mm Dark Blue Tint Acrylic Sheet Polished Cut To Size for the face, i have to drill four screw holes and the worst part which is worrying me is making a cutout for the USB......i there any advice you can give on making a cutout to make it look very professional?
That's a rather large enclosure height and width wise compared to the Hammond 1590ABK or the plastic one you had ordered, but is certainly doable. With that width and height, you'd be able to fit bigger batts with more mAh and have even longer vape times.The other reason i chose that box was because it is my first time build so i also thought better for me to have more space to work with to get used to how things work, didn't want to dive into the deep end.Yes, it does matter - if you cut off the wrong 2 leads the button will be unusable. If not sure which 2 leads to cut off, check continuity with your multimeter. Place one probe on one lead, then the other probe on another lead - press the button. If you hear a beep and get a reading those 2 leads are connected and you can wire to those 2 leads. If you don't hear a beep or get a reading when pressing the button, then those 2 leads are not connected and cannot be used together.A quick way though, is that with that tact button, the 2 leads on one side are connected and the 2 leads on the other side are connected. So if you cut off the 2 leads on one side, you'll use the 2 leads on the other side for wiring.So i cannot just simply for instance just cut off lets say the top two legs and use just the bottom two legs of each tactile switch.CheersJason
Ignore my post about the tactile switches, all sorted, went out and bought a new multimeter as my other one decided to die.All switches when the button is pressed beeped on the multimeter using this format:
mamu, last question i promise (i think) I am having problems with the company who i bought these from: 2 x 1200mAh 25C li-poly batts (Length 60mm - Width 20mm - Depth 10mm) from here http://reflexshop.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=51773They have took my money but i ain't had any confirmation of order, been emailing them for about 5 days now and still no answer So i think i will have to get some from here: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/index.aspI am totally useless when it comes to batteries, would you be so kind to choose one for me that will work with the fuses etc etc that i bought above and will fit my new box from here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005T95KMK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Preferably in stock in the UKApart from that i think i am good to go, all other parts will be with me tomorrow.Many thanksJason
Yep sorry manu, silly me was a bit lost so i ended up just going by this:
Those irons were designed for electronics of the 1950s that had very large circuit board pads and large heavy terminals on tube sockets. You need a lot of heat to solder that stuff. They were fine for that, but they became obsolete as soon as electronics went to solid state. Modern electronics require precise temperature control to avoid damage from overheating. For some reason people think those industrial age soldering irons are still relevant. I think you can even still find them for sale. Talk about using the wrong tools, can't think of a better example.
Post #33, was off the wall. I see people talking about getting pure nicotine every now and then, the Chinese will sell you anything. That stuff is way too dangerous to handle. One of these days someone is going to hurt themselves.
I'm thinking that its a spammer. Especially looking at the members email address which no one else can see.I am about to delete it unless clueless vapor can convince me that he's legit.
