Author Topic: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter... (Read 319298 times)

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #350 on:** July 25, 2015, 02:00:56 PM »

Quote from: hill115side on July 25, 2015, 01:56:00 PM

Hello guy

I did go off and design a PCB board for the T20 and others as well. Just wanted to show you what I can up with.

Is that for a 1590g? Are you selling the boards or have unpopulated ones available anywhere? Looks pretty nice!

bamanerd · « **Reply #351 on:** July 27, 2015, 10:42:41 AM »

Quote from: hill115side on July 25, 2015, 01:56:00 PM

I did go off and design a PCB board for the T20 and others as well. Just wanted to show you what I can up with.

Looks good Hillside.

I'd definitely be interested in getting my hands on some, too. Let us know.

hill115side · « **Reply #352 on:** July 30, 2015, 08:27:37 PM »

Send me a pm with your Number and I will reach out.

bamanerd · « **Reply #353 on:** August 07, 2015, 03:25:20 PM »

I found this the other day, so I thought there's no way I'm not sharing this with you guys.

https://squareup.com/market/modpcb

Someone has designed and is selling pcb's for the OKL2-T20, the Raptor, and for PWM mods. Check it out. You just solder your board to the pcb, along with some smd parts, and you're done. Pretty effin neat. They're only 15 bucks a pop. I know I plan to grab a few to play around with soon. They even link to another site (link below) that sells CNC Aluminum enclosures with a 1590G 'tallboy' specifically designed to hold one of these setups.

http://modcrate.myshopify.com/

Enjoy!

bamanerd · « **Reply #354 on:** August 07, 2015, 03:30:41 PM »

Oohh crap... Sorry Hillside!! I just saw your post.... I didn't mean to dump on you like that

bamanerd · « **Reply #355 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:43:42 AM »

I've been working on a new one here and there over the past few weeks, and I've just about got everything ready to go in the box. I've slowed way down on this one, and have been trying to take my time to produce a nicer, cleaner end result. I'm also trying to put it all into a 1590G sized CNC enclosure that I got from ModCrate, which is a royal pain in the arse. I could have easily left out some of the extra components like the Pfet and the Nfet, and went with a very basic schematic, but I wanted to do it right. I like the challenge anyway.

I'm gonna post a couple pictures below, so you can see how it's coming along. In the pics you can see a part that I've designed and uploaded to Shapeways for printing and ordering. This part is a drop-in switch holder that holds the two switches in the circuit and the reverse polarity indicator LED. I really think this is gonna add a nice touch when it's all said and done. I've also started designing some other things, like a bezel for the same switch that functions just like the digital voltmeter bezels that many of us use. I'm not using that one in this mod, but I'm really excited about using it in the next one.

Well... here goes nothing. Keep in mind that I haven't cut my holes in the enclosure, or finished up the wiring. I've just got things sat in there to see how it's all fitting. This is an extremely tight fit!! Let me know what you think.

Breaktru · « **Reply #356 on:** August 26, 2015, 11:10:57 AM »

Nice going bamanerd. Great work so far

bamanerd · « **Reply #357 on:** August 26, 2015, 11:47:30 AM »

Thanks man

It definitely gets better with each iteration.

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #358 on:** August 30, 2015, 02:03:57 AM »

Where do you fit the 510 and button in that thing?!? I've been considering an OKL 1590G build but from the looks of it I'd have to use a tiny tactile switch rather than a 12-16mm momentary :/

bamanerd · « **Reply #359 on:** August 30, 2015, 10:08:19 AM »

Quote from: MonkeyTokes on August 30, 2015, 02:03:57 AM

Where do you fit the 510 and button in that thing?!? I've been considering an OKL 1590G build but from the looks of it I'd have to use a tiny tactile switch rather than a 12-16mm momentary :/

Hahaha! Yeah.... it's an extremely tight fit. It's been a real challenge trying figure out how to make it all fit.

You're absolutely right. I had already planned to use a tactile switch in this one, so I wasn't too worried about that, but the 510 has been causing me a great deal of concern. I got my hole cut for the 510, and everything sat in there last night. Just as I suspected.... the 510 sits right on top of the board. Like flush, right on the board. This is a FDV v3 that I had in the drawer, and after days of moving and squeezing and soldering and resoldering.... I finally ordered a V3 Shorty last night, once I realized that this one definitely isn't going to work in this setup.

I feel sure that shorty 510 will work just fine. It should be here by Wednesday or Thursday, so I'll let you know as soon as I get it and stick it in there. This is gonna be a really nice looking mod once I get it all done, so it's definitely worth the extra effort to me. So.... just something to think about. If you have the time and the patience, give it a go! I think you'll really be pleased with it.

One thing that I'm super pleased with is my switch holder that I designed. Last night I got the switches and my reverse polarity LED placed in there with the excess wire tucked underneath, and filled it with epoxy. It came out great!! I will definitely be using this from now on.

Here's a pic of the space situation with the 510.

Breaktru · « **Reply #360 on:** August 30, 2015, 10:34:54 AM »

I was able get more clearance for the 510 by grinding down the lower corner and sliding everything down.
You may be able to leave the top part of the corner so you can mount a magnet.
I used a dremel w/ the bits shown attached below...

mamu · « **Reply #361 on:** August 30, 2015, 11:03:45 AM »

Those are my go to bits too, breaktru, for dremeling those corner posts of a Hammond box. The bottom one I also use for thinning inner walls if needed.

bamanerd and MonkeyTokes - it's doable to fit the OKL2-T20 in a 1590G, plus all the works like fuses, RPP, voltmeter, as well as a mitec 12mm switch (it has very little depth so is doable).

It's also doable to fit the works in a tiny 1550P with some intense dremel work on the inner side walls and dremeling the underside of the corner posts, leaving a lip to glue magnets in.

My motto... make it work!

These are Raptor 20A mods, but both boards are similar size.

1590G...

1550P...

mamu · « **Reply #362 on:** August 30, 2015, 11:18:39 AM »

For the 1590G - do like breaktru says and dremel the underside of the lower corner post so you can seat the sled on the bottom inner wall. Leave just few mm of the post so to glue a magnet in.

bamanerd · « **Reply #363 on:** August 30, 2015, 11:28:49 AM »

Quote from: mamu on August 30, 2015, 11:18:39 AM

For the 1590G - do like breaktru says and dremel the underside of the lower corner post so you can seat the sled on the bottom inner wall. Leave just few mm of the post so to glue a magnet in.

I was thinking about doing that. I wasn't sure what the best bit would be, though. Your pictures really help, breaktru. Thanks very much, both of you!!

I LOVE those 'P' boxes, Mamu!!

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #364 on:** August 30, 2015, 02:59:55 PM »

I'm surprised you guys go through the trouble to notch out the box rather than the battery holder itself. I also use the little tungsten carbide bits on my aluminum boxes, though mainly to modify the lip around the lid to fit the nut for the switch and such.

Those are some really nice looking boxes though Mamu! I'm gonna check out those switches, for some reason it hurts my soul to see people resolved to using the little DNA tactile buttons in a Hammond box as a fire button :/

Bamanerd, that is a really nice job. I'm diggin' the switch holder as well! Did you 3D print that, get it made through shapeways or? I've still got a few OKLs on hand, I think I'm gonna give it a go and worst case just move it over to a B box if I can't swing it with what I've got on hand. Sadly I'll probably have to get a FDV connector(I'm not a fan) or modify one of my varitubes to fit. Hell, I barely can fit my TO-220 mosfets in a 1590G while using the "vaping underground mosfet PCB" from osh park without the connector touching. I'll definitely post some pics if it goes well.

Morphoys1979 · « **Reply #365 on:** September 02, 2015, 11:40:12 AM »

Hi Guys, thank you to Take Part of your Forum, that´s awesome.
Since one Week my OKL20 Negative Version is running very well in my 1590B Box. I only have one Problem with the LVC and I don´t know what is the issue. I wired everything up like the Mamu Diagram shows including all Safety Parts etc. When the Battery-Power reaches 7.4 Volts input Voltage, my output Voltage goes slowly down. I adjusted 3.65 Volt, for my 0.4ohm atty. So when I reach 7.4 volt Battery Power the Output goes slowly down to 2.8 Volt and the ship makes a noise like zzzzzzz. Not loud but i Can hear it. Above 7.4 Volt Input everything is as it should be. Can someone help me with my Problem.

Thanks to everyone who can help.

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #366 on:** September 02, 2015, 11:56:36 AM »

I'm not sure I completely understand, but I do know the noise you're refering to. My OKL boxes make that noise when the batteries are nearly too low to even fire the mod. Is it 2.8v under load from your .4ohm atomizer or just a voltmeter/multimeter? My guess would be if you turn the potentiometer up slightly so the output voltage is back up to 3.65v the noise should go away.

Its not a fix but it should do the trick. I think the chip just kind of whines when voltage is low

bamanerd · « **Reply #367 on:** September 02, 2015, 12:02:32 PM »

How old are the batteries you're using? That buzzing is the chip being under powered. With a .4 ohm build, if the batteries aren't in really good condition it can cause your input voltage to drop significantly while firing, which will cause this. I have an old set of VTC 4's that does that exact same thing.

@MonkeyTokes Yeah, i designed it and uploaded it to Shapeways for printing. You can search for it using my screen name (I think) or my shop name on there, Infamous Mods. I have a few on there. Two 1590B sized ones and the one 1590G. I also have a nice switch bezel for the outside of the box on there (like the screen bezels we've been using).

I'm working on some other things in my spare time, too. Once I get them printed and tested, they'll be available. Also, keep in mind that all of these switch holders are designed for these switches http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1101M2S3CQE2virtualkey61170000virtualkey611-1101M2S3CQE2, but should work for anything that is that size or smaller. It works for both two position and three position switches alike. I have one of each in the one pictured.

Morphoys1979 · « **Reply #368 on:** September 02, 2015, 12:41:18 PM »

Hi Monkeytokes and bamanerd,
I tried different Batteries, VTC5, Efest 35amp, Samsung 25R, and is the same Problem. It happens under Load and also with 0.7ohm and 1.2ohm atty.
Without Load everything is fine with adjusting the output. Under Load the output breaks down slowly. Everytime when the Input Voltage goes under 7.4 Volts I can do nothing else as change Batteries. I also have a Raptor build and there works everything as it should. There is a cutoff at 6.4 volt and I´m Lucky. In my OKL Build I´m loosing a lot of Battery - capacity and thats bad. When I recharge the VTC5 with my opus 3100 they start at 3.7 volt and take 1000mAh. With the Raptor-Mod they start loading at 3.2 Volt and take 2200 mAh that is a big difference. Could it be that there is another mistake in my OKL Mod.

bamanerd · « **Reply #369 on:** September 02, 2015, 02:14:39 PM »

I'm really not sure man. I'm really not super knowledgeable about all of this. I only know the problems that I've encountered. I do know that my OKL2-T20 also hits LVC at higher average voltages than my Raptor does. If I'm running a higher resistance build, say.... .6+ ohms, then it will discharge to about 6.8-7.2V before LVC.

If I'm running bare minimum, .3ohms, then it can start LVC anywhere between 7.4-7.7V depending on the batteries I'm using and the voltage I'm vaping at. A quick fix is to just dial it down a little, and keep on vaping at slightly lower voltages incrementally. Maybe there's a higher internal resistance in this build. I don't know.

I feel sure that if you give the guys some time to look it over and think about, someone who knows this stuff inside and out will respond with some insight when they get a chance. The guys around here are really helpful. Tchuss!

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #370 on:** September 02, 2015, 02:23:11 PM »

Awesome! I'm in the process of putting together my first shapeways order now for a couple DNA boxes for a local shop, I'll definitely check them out and maybe add a coupe to my cart for the rest of my OKL boards! By chance do you know of a DNA bezel on shapeways for the screen that also has two holes for the up and down butto? Something like the picture below? In I my expierence their search engine is a bit wonky. Looking for DNA bezels got me all sorts of custom enclosures and what not. Really I should finally invest in a 3D printer so I can learn to do it myself but that's another expensive commitment.

Morphoys - my only thought is maybe you used a different part than the ones in mamu's diagram? If so that may cause the results you're getting. Personally the only components i use aside from the OKL itself are fuses and capacitors. No low voltage cut off or reverse polarity protection so I'm not exactly sure what else it could be. Maybe a bad mosfet? Sorry I cant be if more help, im sure someone with a bit more expierence with this chip will be able to give you some tips.

If it were my mod I'd pull it apart and check your wiring and part numbers and values.

Morphoys1979 · « **Reply #371 on:** September 02, 2015, 02:46:11 PM »

Thanks Guys, maybe I should take the LVC out of the Box and change the wiring for this and take a look what happened. It is just bad, because it is fully assembled and that sucks. I`m just dissapointed about the less Vaping time compared to my Raptor. Sorry for my bad English, I´m German so that is a big challenge to be around here

bamanerd · « **Reply #372 on:** September 02, 2015, 03:29:35 PM »

Quote from: Morphoys1979 on September 02, 2015, 02:46:11 PM

Sorry for my bad English

No worries! Your English is actually really good. I don't think too many people would even notice that it's not your first language. You should hear/see the way some Americans speak....

My ex-wife is German. She lives in Schweinfurt, Bayern. What part of NordRhein Westfalen do you live in?

@MonkeyTokes I don't know man. I've never built a DNA, so I've never searched specifically for DNA parts. I do completely agree that their search function is cracked out, though!! lol

I REALLY want to get a 3D printer, too. Like bad.... but yeah... they're quite expensive. I really like the one that Dremel has recently come out with. It's about 900-1000 bucks. Costco has one that starts at 600ish. I've heard it's not bad. Something to look into.

Morphoys1979 · « **Reply #373 on:** September 02, 2015, 05:47:28 PM »

Hi Guys just want to give my feedback to you about my LVC Problem. I have taken out the 5.6v zener diode and now it runs. D'ont ask me why, cause in my Raptor build it works fine, but in my OKL board it sucks. Thanks to be Part of your community. I will go on to learn more about Modding

Morphoys1979 · « **Reply #374 on:** September 02, 2015, 05:54:25 PM »

@ bamanerd
I live in Duisburg, that is near Düsseldorf and Cologne. Thanks for compliments to my writing in English, sometimes I feel like my English is not clear.

But learning by doing is the best, same with modding.

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #375 on:** September 09, 2015, 05:37:58 AM »

Glad you got your mod working again! I wouldn't really sweat the English, a lot of times people who speak English as a second language speak English better than those whose first language is English :p

Bamanerd have you ever looked into an opebsource or DIYkit for a 3d printer? They seem like a bit more work for the setup and getting everything working right but once you get it going they seem to work about as well as a $500-800 3d printer and you save $300ish. I feel like itd pay for itself pretty quickly just as something to play around with and test designs rather than ordering a sample from shapeways and waiting for it to be delivered then make adjustments and reorder it again and so on.

Anyways, one of my friends OKL mod started to auto fire, it worked for probably a month before with no problems. they said they were using it at 60% with a .5ohm coil but there is a clear burn spot on the board. Any ideas what the component is that has melted (see circled component in picture) and what could cause this to happen? I've got a new OKL on hand but I'd rather know what caused it before I waste it, ya know?

mamu · « **Reply #376 on:** September 09, 2015, 08:39:17 AM »

MonkeyTokes - that's an N-channel MOSFET. It's part of the switching circuit for the converter. Surprising that it would fail, but does happen.

mamu · « **Reply #377 on:** September 09, 2015, 08:50:45 AM »

If there was a burn spot on that part, maybe got a blast of current or short across it. I'm not sure if reversed battery would cause that if there was no P-FET protecting that part of the circuit, but it might be a possibility.

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #378 on:** September 09, 2015, 09:17:23 AM »

Thanks Mamu, that's what I was thinking, or exceeding 20A and the fuses not working for some reason. He assured me the batteries were in correctly but even I've put them in backwards before so who knows. He did say it worked for a 10 or so puffs before it started auto firing so I'm not even sure that's possible with the batteries reversed. Whatever it was definitely burnt it out good!

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #379 on:** September 16, 2015, 11:04:59 AM »

Anybody ever figure out what needs to change in the wiring for the positive logic version? Would i just wire the switch to positive instead of negative?

mamu · « **Reply #380 on:** September 16, 2015, 05:41:33 PM »

Yes - just wire it like the OKR and Raptor.

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #381 on:** September 17, 2015, 12:07:12 AM »

Right but following the negative logic diagram results in the mod constantly firing and stops when the button us pressed. Well so people have said. Mine just makes a strange clicking sound.

I was just wondering if anyone has found a definitive way to wire them up to function properly.

lakethomason · « **Reply #382 on:** September 19, 2015, 12:48:59 PM »

Hi mamu :3

First and foremost, thank you so much for your help and dedication to this thread! You. Are. Awesome.

I don't know if you're interested, but murata recently released an okr t 30 chip that looks decently similar to the okl t 20 with a removable heatsink. Right here : http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/OKR-T-30-W12-C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNM%2fd3q5fCV8lqr4%252bbPfYq25w3WAz%2fTQc%3d

My friends and I are 3d printing a couple box mods and I was wondering if it would be wired similarly to the okl t 20

I read the data sheet a few times but I'm no electrician haha. I figured out what pot I would need through some research, and the step down resistor would be the same as the okl t 20 positive version (which I accidentally got the first time and am using now)

Perhaps on a slow day you could check it out?

Thank you

mamu · « **Reply #383 on:** September 19, 2015, 03:02:23 PM »

hey lakethomason... the OKR-T30 would be wired similar to the OKR-T10.

From reading the datasheet, external components for the OKR-T30 are the same as the OKR-T10. The only unknown component would be the pull-down resistor. I would start with a 5K first, then 1K. Go with the highest that keeps the enable pin pulled low (off) as that would use the least amount of idle current.

POT - 200 ohms
RTrim - 220 ohms
zener diode - 5.6v, or 6v if using lipo
Input cap - optional, if using use a 22uF, 16v MLCC
bridge all Vout
bridge all Vin
bridge all gnd

I would highly recommend 3S for this converter for best efficiency and vaping longevity. You really won't get best results with using only 2S.

Hope this helps!

Visus · « **Reply #384 on:** September 19, 2015, 04:06:24 PM »

Nice buck reg

Like Mamu says if you go 2s you'll only get 5v out to 510, its swallows 2v off the top.
"Vin must be a minimum of 2V higher than Vout."

Its no where near the okl for our use IMO, it will only give ya 30 amps @ +25c temp correction, so if ambient is 25c add 25c and it will derate if not vented and even vented it still is derating huge without a fan..

The awesome part at full load 30A it only draws 13.2A @3s.. Thats awesome..

But the OKL will do 30A easy and will not derate in warm/hot weather as fast.. But if it derates who can tell 160watts from 110 watts anyway both are hawt unless u got huge gauge coil in there, like a 8wrap dual 32/24ga clapton or such.

IDK why anyone vapes over 80 watts lol.. I get overnic'd just thinkin about it..

lakethomason · « **Reply #385 on:** September 19, 2015, 10:03:01 PM »

Okay, so I did some more research and have a few more questions..

First @Visus, you're saying that the okl can handle 30 amps better than the okr t 30? Perhaps I'm misinterpreting you. Why don't you think that 'its no where near the okl for our use"? Are you saying that the okr 'needs to heat up' before 30 amps can be achieved or something?

and @mamu, that does help! Immensely, thank you. Do you think this chip could be used well in a box mod? I could put 3s in the box, but would I run into output issues if I removed the heatsink? Even if I kept it on?
And this will probably sound noobish, but what do you mean by bridging?

Visus · « **Reply #386 on:** September 20, 2015, 06:47:25 AM »

Ya the okl is bad to the bone heres an extensive testing of it review..

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/okl-t20-chip-review.63318/

The chip you found is great in applications providing cfm's, it is cutting some power to get that 30 amps for ya.. I am not savvy on the watts burn conversion to heat but its snatching 2v always and only asking at full load 13.2 amps(awesome) it is a total different build on the chip than the OKL. For example my 08100 only grabs .89v over load, runs cool as a cucumber up to ~110watts..

The OKL t20 will put out 32A 189 watts at a 2s load. @ 2s the OKL is awesomely efficient..
The t30 will become a hot box in your hand as soon as you get @~20A and will run warmer than you want at even lower loads..

The raptor series have 40A - 60A chips they are a much better choice IMO @ 2s/3s and @ 5v load it is ~96% efficient, thats baddest to the bone.. The OKL's are not as effiecient as the raptor series until 3s and even then not ~96%.. It also only pulls .80v over load at max load out if 5v, it's even lower if below 5v its really an awesome cool running chip..

http://www.geindustrial.com/products/embedded-power/naos-raptor

mamu · « **Reply #387 on:** September 20, 2015, 08:06:20 AM »

The datasheet for all these OKR converters list it needs 2v higher input over output, but CapeCad over at ECF proved it's more like .8v - .9v. Some of the overhead depends on the power you're requiring of it, circuit resistance, and batt sag - which is true for all these converters we work with.

Here's what I mean by bridging those connections..

Visus · « **Reply #388 on:** September 20, 2015, 10:20:15 AM »

Thats great info Mamu ya 2v is huge I thought for a switching reg, moving it back to old regs that definitely are hot as hades grabbing definitely 2v under load. I guess its saying build it giving it room lol... I do like the okl 5.5v uvlo, with the lgs at 2s it would not need a safety circuit as the lg's HE series runs comfortable down to 2.5v.. Meh I still like the raptors better if was to wire a high power reg but Ti also has a really good high amp reg with great specs but it is only usable above 3s http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pth12040w.pdf..

I would wanna try that OKL t30 700mhz frequency tho see what it vapes like

lakethomason · « **Reply #389 on:** September 20, 2015, 10:52:14 PM »

Thanks for the info guys!

So if the okr t 30 is a bit mediocre, what would be the most badass chip I could put in a box? I'm looking for max wattage and something that wont overheat haha. Batteries are variables, we could go any way at this point, lipo 3s or li mn 2s. Something that's not the dna 200 chip for $80

Bonus: We figured we could put wireless chargers paired with lipo batteries in our boxes, how cool would that be??

Also! What are the max voltage and wattage youve found the okl to be? If we marketed our boxes with these numbers should we change up the fuses as well?

And uhh.. what lipo batteries/website do you recommend I use?

<3

mamu · « **Reply #390 on:** September 21, 2015, 06:12:19 AM »

I wouldn't say that the OKR-T30 is mediocre. Murata doesn't make mediocre stuff.

Modders have been making mods with the OKR line of converters for years now and they have stood the test of time.

You need to figure out what it is you want from the converter, lakethomason, and go from there.

Visus · « **Reply #391 on:** September 21, 2015, 06:41:43 AM »

IMO

Check out David4500 555 PWM or Doobe's MCU PWM mod, both can handle huge wattage. There not any regulators under size humongous that can do what their boards in wattage can.. If your batteries can handle a ~1000 watt load their boards can do it with the right mosfets.. Basically if you go above 200 watts you also have to design an atomizer than can do it repeatably as it will melt and blow the top off almost all atomizers on market today...

If you want plug and play ready to run regulator ease the Raptor series edition boards with Mamu's tutorial posts are hard to beat but stlll only up to ~400 watts.

I posted some badarse 3s lipo batts in parts for mods section ~35-70Aburst..

Most regulators are underated by a huge margin, they have their reasons for doing that but we run them in seconds not always on so they will outlive us running above board specs.. The okl has a 14million hour always on life expectancy at their spec rating, well the way we use them in under 10 sec bursts you can probably double that life expectancy lol..

@ 2s you cannot beat the OKL T20 overclocked it will do 32A, the 20A 120 watt Raptors will do up to ~45A overclocked..

My uber opinion is; "there is not anything high power you can build that is not redundant to the Dna200" other than David's and Doobe boards.. Your cost will be right at the ready to run Dna200 to build most high power regs..

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #392 on:** September 25, 2015, 09:18:41 AM »

@Visus what do you mean by over clocking??

Visus · « **Reply #393 on:** September 25, 2015, 07:19:22 PM »

Quote from: MonkeyTokes on September 25, 2015, 09:18:41 AM

@Visus what do you mean by over clocking??

Termed for using it above or below min-maximum data sheet spec..

Used as a slang like as in computer overclocking get a bigger fan and/or heatsink no harm or foul.
Since we don't use it continually on just pulsing, it works favorably..
Data sheets do list the overclocking/above data sheet min-max setting limit...

lakethomason · « **Reply #394 on:** October 05, 2015, 02:04:23 AM »

Hey mamu, I basically built your okl t 20 box with the 20 amp fuses and all. Would I be able to run this thing at 32 amps @ 189 watts like visus says the chip can handle? I've been real close to the .275 ohm max at 5.5 volts, always been too afraid to test it haha

Visus · « **Reply #395 on:** October 05, 2015, 02:29:07 AM »

Lake, You fused it to low to truly overclock it.
Maybe it will, some resettable fuses do not trip str8 away but if you try chain vaping it, it may..

Read the data sheet, not Visus, I go by the data sheets, they tells ya when and what the chip will do..

32 amps max and the chip shuts down..

-------
Mamu has said, 'she just buys the right chip to desired wattage and builds it to data sheet min-max specs not its absolute max of overclocking, she no play around with that biznuss.. I do though if it goes boom I build another, none have failed yet

MonkeyTokes · « **Reply #396 on:** October 08, 2015, 09:12:43 AM »

Quote from: lakethomason on September 20, 2015, 10:52:14 PM

Thanks for the info guys!

So if the okr t 30 is a bit mediocre, what would be the most badass chip I could put in a box? I'm looking for max wattage and something that wont overheat haha. Batteries are variables, we could go any way at this point, lipo 3s or li mn 2s. Something that's not the dna 200 chip for $80

Bonus: We figured we could put wireless chargers paired with lipo batteries in our boxes, how cool would that be??

Also! What are the max voltage and wattage youve found the okl to be? If we marketed our boxes with these numbers should we change up the fuses as well?

And uhh.. what lipo batteries/website do you recommend I use?

<3

I think the 40A or even 80A delta boards may work for ya. Personally 200watts is more than I need and can see anyone else needing but I suppose its cool to have. I have one of the 40A Delta's and it is surprisingly small. Way smaller than expected! I don't have any empty 1590Bs at the moment but from what I can tell if you slide the 510 towards the lid a bit it will fit in with a 3D printed 3x 18650 sled or even better with a 3s lipo. It leaves little room for really anything else besides the supporting components and pot, unless you use a small tactile switch instead of a 16mm button. They also have an onboard heatsink for passive cooling so theres that.

I can also recommend david4500's "dualparamos V1.4" PWM boards, though I've recently had issues with the traces on 3 of 6 of the boards I ordered. I also have used TheModFather's mini PWM boards which work pretty well, but again, I've had about as many fail as I've had work well but for their price, its worth a shot.
I can also recommend david4500's "dualparamos V1.4" PWM boards, though I've recently had issues with the traces on 3 of 6 of the boards I ordered. I also have used TheModFather's mini PWM boards which work pretty well, but again, I've had about as many fail as I've had work well but for the price its worth a shot. I also recommend using the vaping underground TO-220 mosfet PCBs with the mini PWM set up.

Regardless, It does hold true that there is no DC-DC converter that has a footprint even quadruple the size of a pwm board that can output nearly the same power.

chopper71 · « **Reply #397 on:** January 01, 2017, 11:53:35 PM »

Hello all, new here. I just started building with the OKL2-T20 it is the N. My issues is its auto firing soon as I put in the second battery, its dual 18650. I used this wiring diagram. I would greatly appreciate any help with this.

SDaddy · « **Reply #398 on:** January 02, 2017, 12:41:47 AM »

You need a 15K resistor on the mosfet. But I may be wrong.

chopper71 · « **Reply #399 on:** January 02, 2017, 12:48:23 AM »

Its regulated and its a P-Fet not a mosfet. I know when building all my unregulated boxes, I would use a 15k resistor on the mosfet. I have seen several diagrams and see none with a 15k resistor on the p-fet.