Author Topic: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter... (Read 319301 times)

SDaddy · « **Reply #400 on:** January 02, 2017, 12:50:59 AM »

Quote from: chopper71 on January 02, 2017, 12:48:23 AM

Its regulated and its a P-Fet not a mosfet. I know when building all my unregulated boxes, I would use a 15k resistor on the mosfet. I have seen several diagrams and see none with a 15k resistor on the p-fet.

True, but you don't even need the p-fet in that configuration.

SDaddy · « **Reply #401 on:** January 02, 2017, 11:01:21 AM »

Anyway, is your fire switch soldered? You may have used too much heat on it if it is.

All your grounds at the 510? Any of them loose?

Did you test this outside the box before you installed it?

I don't see anything wrong with the diagram , although I would rather use a fuse than a p-fet

The only things that should be causing auto-fire may be: bad soldering at key locations, or, exposed areas contacting the box shorting it out, or over-heating the chip/parts while soldering.

chopper71 · « **Reply #402 on:** January 02, 2017, 12:44:36 PM »

Yes the switch is soldered and it looks to be good. All grounds are done at the 510, none seem to be loose. Yes I'm testing this outside the box. Only thing that is in the box is the 510. Could the problem be the resistors I am using? The are the small SMD ones. I used for both the 20k and the 1.43k. I'm attaching a photo of the 1.43k and the 20k is about the same size. I do have those coming in that have the long legs on them. I appreciate your help SDADDY.

SDaddy · « **Reply #403 on:** January 02, 2017, 01:30:55 PM »

Using SMD version of the resistors is fine. Shouldn't be an issue as long as everything is wired properly. Again, you may have just burnt one.
You did attach one leg of the pot to the center leg, yes?

Desolder the firing switch, see if that does anything. After that, the only suggestion is replacing the resistors, which you are already on.

chopper71 · « **Reply #404 on:** January 02, 2017, 01:59:28 PM »

Center leg on what? sorry not sure of what you are meaning.

chopper71 · « **Reply #405 on:** January 02, 2017, 02:34:11 PM »

The 20k resistor is that what is suppose to keep it from auto firing?

SDaddy · « **Reply #406 on:** January 02, 2017, 03:33:10 PM »

Quote from: chopper71 on January 02, 2017, 02:34:11 PM

The 20k resistor is that what is suppose to keep it from auto firing?

It's on the same circuit, so it could be your problem.

chopper71 · « **Reply #407 on:** January 09, 2017, 07:39:13 PM »

Got it all figured out. The seller sent me the Positive instead of the Negative board. He was shipped the wrongs one and didn't catch it. So he is making it right. I did figure how to wire it though and its working nice. Instead of running the 20k resistor to the vin from the on/off pad. Run it from the on/off pad to the Negative pad. Then run the on/off wire from the pad to the on/off switch. Then from there to the fire switch, then from there to the Positive on the battery sled. I got 3 of the + boards. So I'm keeping the one I got wired up and he is sending me 2 new - ones. I re done this diagram to show how I wired the OKL2-T20 P board.

ebie · « **Reply #408 on:** April 17, 2017, 03:35:36 AM »

Hi , I am new to the forum and modding , been reading and educating myself and feel quite confident to start my first build . Quick question , how do you identify the pol - and pol + okl2 chipsets ? People do make mistakes with your order and after using it you find that it's not what you ordered , that sucks .

chopper71 · « **Reply #409 on:** April 17, 2017, 04:06:37 PM »

This is how you can tell the difference in the two boards.
L21120 - is Positive
L20120 - is Negative.

ebie · « **Reply #410 on:** April 17, 2017, 04:55:04 PM »

Thanks chopper71 , is this number on the package ? I am waiting on the negative pol from Mauser , should be getting this week .

chopper71 · « **Reply #411 on:** April 17, 2017, 05:31:39 PM »

The number will be on top of the board. That's the best way to make sure. I'm posting a example where it is. This is the neg board.

ebie · « **Reply #412 on:** April 18, 2017, 07:38:50 AM »

-@ Chopper71 ,thank you kindly . Is there anyone on this forum that knows where to find pcb for okl2 like hill1 15side was selling ? I think it was in this post #349 ?

chopper71 · « **Reply #413 on:** April 18, 2017, 08:48:04 AM »

Ebie this is where I get my PCB board to make mine. You can get either the board a lone or the whole kit.

http://puffervape.com/index.php?cPath=33_92

ebie · « **Reply #414 on:** April 18, 2017, 05:19:20 PM »

Wow , seriously neat builds with these pcb boards , I kinda like the "less is more " thingy . Have to get from those pcb boards for my projects . I must build four mods , what worries me now is the fact that I have to educate myself more to solder those tiny components , too expensive to mess it up with crappy soldering , well Google is my friend and YouTube my mentor lol . Thanks Chopper71 for your speedy replies , have you built of these pcb boards personally ?

ebie · « **Reply #415 on:** April 18, 2017, 05:24:23 PM »

Seems like I will be building a mod as per mamu's diagram and a few mods using puffervapes okl2 kits, pretty excited , now to sell the pcb boards to the government

chopper71 · « **Reply #416 on:** April 18, 2017, 06:34:22 PM »

Quote from: ebie on April 18, 2017, 05:19:20 PM

Wow , seriously neat builds with these pcb boards , I kinda like the "less is more " thingy . Have to get from those pcb boards for my projects . I must build four mods , what worries me now is the fact that I have to educate myself more to solder those tiny components , too expensive to mess it up with crappy soldering , well Google is my friend and YouTube my mentor lol . Thanks Chopper71 for your speedy replies , have you built of these pcb boards personally ?

Yes I have and you will want to get a hot air rework station. Plus some good solder paste. Yes YouTube and Google is very good friend to have

.
You are welcome and I hope you can make something nice.

ebie · « **Reply #417 on:** April 21, 2017, 12:22:55 PM »

Question , can i use the IRLB3034 N-FET instead of the ZVNL 110 N-FET ?

chopper71 · « **Reply #418 on:** April 21, 2017, 11:21:48 PM »

Quote from: ebie on April 21, 2017, 12:22:55 PM

Question , can i use the IRLB3034 N-FET instead of the ZVNL 110 N-FET ?

I believe that is the same N-FET I use.

ebie · « **Reply #419 on:** April 22, 2017, 04:19:09 PM »

In the diagram mamu stipulates the zvnl with a 1k ohm resistor , will it be ok to use the irlb3034 with a 15k ohm resistor in its place ? Sorry for not being clearer in my previous post .

chopper71 · « **Reply #420 on:** April 23, 2017, 01:57:59 PM »

Quote from: ebie on April 22, 2017, 04:19:09 PM

In the diagram mamu stipulates the zvnl with a 1k ohm resistor , will it be ok to use the irlb3034 with a 15k ohm resistor in its place ? Sorry for not being clearer in my previous post .

I was wrong, I use the zvnl as well. Just checked and that is the one. I would not suggest using anything else but what is shown.

ebie · « **Reply #421 on:** April 25, 2017, 08:42:34 AM »

Is there any other n fet i can use other than the specified one ? The two main suppliers in South Africa dont have it in stock . I must buy from the US .

SDaddy · « **Reply #422 on:** April 25, 2017, 09:03:10 AM »

You can just leave off the fet and the diode. Neither "must" be used. The fire button works through the board and not directly with the power source.

ebie · « **Reply #423 on:** April 26, 2017, 02:41:54 PM »

My first mod , as per mamu's diagram . Thanks Mamu and all other forum members for educating me , it's been quite a journey . I am waiting for the 510 connector from a vape store that is getting it from the US , then it will be complete , and ready to be vape . I couldn't resist building it to this point . My next build will be the okl2 from Puffervape , I just like the layout and simplicity of less wires to hide . Thanks to all that contributed to this thread , u guys rock .

chopper71 · « **Reply #424 on:** April 26, 2017, 03:49:29 PM »

Quote from: ebie on April 26, 2017, 02:41:54 PM

My first mod , as per mamu's diagram . Thanks Mamu and all other forum members for educating me , it's been quite a journey . I am waiting for the 510 connector from a vape store that is getting it from the US , then it will be complete , and ready to be vape . I couldn't resist building it to this point . My next build will be the okl2 from Puffervape , I just like the layout and simplicity of less wires to hide . Thanks to all that contributed to this thread , u guys rock .

Very nice, I really like how you did that.

Breaktru · « **Reply #425 on:** April 26, 2017, 04:25:15 PM »

Great first mod ebie. Congrats

ebie · « **Reply #426 on:** April 28, 2017, 02:22:01 PM »

Thank you guys for a great forum and the speedy replies, considering our time zones. Government has approved the Puffervape okl2 PCB build. Will be ordering month end. Will post updates on the build.

SoLongSidekick · « **Reply #427 on:** May 03, 2017, 02:47:35 PM »

I should be able to figure this out but I just can't think straight right now. Will this work with an OKL build? http://www.modmeter.com/v2.php

ebie · « **Reply #428 on:** May 24, 2017, 03:13:38 PM »

@ SDaddy , how can i get in contact with David4500 , i want to purchase a pwm pcb from him . Thanks

SDaddy · « **Reply #429 on:** May 24, 2017, 05:33:13 PM »

You can try his Facebook group. https://m.facebook.com/MosMaxElectronics

ebie · « **Reply #430 on:** May 25, 2017, 05:55:18 AM »

Thanks SDaddy

david4500 · « **Reply #431 on:** May 27, 2017, 11:25:32 PM »

Hey there fellas. I've also got a FB group, just search for "MosMax Electronics Group"

kentsfield · « **Reply #432 on:** January 21, 2018, 06:37:59 PM »

Heya folks,

I really need some help. I build a mod with an OKR-T30-C PSU and connected it like shown in the attachment.

The 12V power are coming from an external power supply.

Well, without a load, the output voltages are stable between (i think?) ~3V and almost 12V. But as soon as I attach an atomizer to the 510 port (0,4 ohm coil), the OKR module starts oscillating/buzzing pretty bad. Its very loud and even the wires are "vibrating", also the power supply im using (45A on 12V). Its very strange, that other parts start oscillating too. I never had this problem before.

I am using a 250 ohm trimpot, connected to trim- and trim+. Also two 22uf tantulum capacitors between VIN and GND. I don't use the sense wires because I don't know how and the datasheet of the OKR is pretty confusing imho.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

SDaddy · « **Reply #433 on:** January 21, 2018, 08:00:31 PM »

OKR-T/30-W12-C

I don't even see a diagram on this forum for this chip, other than yours

What diagram did you use to build it?

It's missing Alot of information.

Breaktru · « **Reply #434 on:** January 22, 2018, 10:09:08 AM »

Quote from: kentsfield on January 21, 2018, 06:37:59 PM

Heya folks,

I really need some help. I build a mod with an OKR-T30-C PSU and connected it like shown in the attachment.

The 12V power are coming from an external power supply.

Well, without a load, the output voltages are stable between (i think?) ~3V and almost 12V. But as soon as I attach an atomizer to the 510 port (0,4 ohm coil), the OKR module starts oscillating/buzzing pretty bad. Its very loud and even the wires are "vibrating", also the power supply im using (45A on 12V). Its very strange, that other parts start oscillating too. I never had this problem before.

I am using a 250 ohm trimpot, connected to trim- and trim+. Also two 22uf tantulum capacitors between VIN and GND. I don't use the sense wires because I don't know how and the datasheet of the OKR is pretty confusing imho.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

Assuming that your wiring is correct, Usually buzzing is an indication that the battery or power supply is not capable of providing the current that you need.

Here is the Data Sheet: https://power.murata.com/data/power/okr-t30-w12.pdf

Here is a build video:
https://youtu.be/4BMMx6iRyew

kentsfield · « **Reply #435 on:** January 22, 2018, 01:50:24 PM »

Hi Breaktru,

thanks for the reply. I used the video provided by you as a "building guide" and basically, the handmade schematic above is the same, as the guys in the video uses.

I have also read the datasheet a few times, the only plausible reason for that problem could be the hiccup mode, as described in the datasheet.

The power supply should be more than enough sufficient, but I will hook a power meter up and see what my PSU really outputs.

EDIT: I really think its the PSU. I have now connected ALL 12V cables from different rails and ALL GND cables (if there are any rails), and still - oscillation. When I hold the fire button for about 5 to 10 seconds, the PSU shuts down, allthough there should be 30A (not 45, Sorry).

Anyway, Ill think I just get hold of a proper 12V PSU with enough Amps and try it again.

Breaktru · « **Reply #436 on:** January 22, 2018, 05:01:26 PM »

Can you put a voltmeter on the OKR input voltage pins or on the PSU output and see if the voltage drops when firing with a load.
Also if you have an amp meter, check the PSU amperage under load.

kentsfield · « **Reply #437 on:** January 23, 2018, 04:03:00 PM »

Hi Breaktru,

i will test this. But today I used a server PSU I had laying around here. 12V, 59A. Should be MORE than enough. Well, no oscillation and buzzing anymore. But - Nothing really happens. The internal volt meter shows 0.01V max., and nothing really happens. There is a normal, very light buzzing coming from the OKR module, but that's normal. It doesn't matter how high I set the trimpot, nothing happens.

I will extract the ammeter/voltmeter combo with shunt from my 3D printer and re-wire it to the server mainboard in order to see the input voltage, but I think this time it's not the PSU's fault. those server PSUs are built for longevity and extreme precision.

Breaktru · « **Reply #438 on:** January 23, 2018, 04:51:08 PM »

Do you have a volt meter to see if there is 12v present at the PSU output?

kentsfield · « **Reply #439 on:** January 24, 2018, 04:31:24 AM »

Hi,

Yes- clean 12V, with or without load.

FlameOut · « **Reply #440 on:** January 24, 2018, 12:02:07 PM »

Are you getting the 12V at the OKR input pins since using the server PSU.

kentsfield · « **Reply #441 on:** January 24, 2018, 04:16:57 PM »

Yes, I measured the voltage output from the server PSU without the OKR attached, 12V. Then, with OKR but not turned on - 12V (measured on the OKR VIN and GND pin), with load (OKR on) - also 12V.

kentsfield · « **Reply #442 on:** January 28, 2018, 01:49:17 PM »

it works now. I can't really tell why, I checked all connections (allthough I did this already a few times), strenghtened a few soldier joints, until it somehow works now

Breaktru · « **Reply #443 on:** January 28, 2018, 02:55:45 PM »

Yeah, it could have been a cold solder connection.

captainmac40 · « **Reply #444 on:** September 30, 2018, 04:18:47 PM »

Hi! I'm seek about some information or diagram to sync 2 OKL2-T20 to have an 40A capable output.
Do you have something ?
Thanks !

SDaddy · « **Reply #445 on:** September 30, 2018, 05:32:07 PM »

Quote from: captainmac40 on September 30, 2018, 04:18:47 PM

Hi! I'm seek about some information or diagram to sync 2 OKL2-T20 to have an 40A capable output.
Do you have something ?
Thanks !

The OKL2-T20 is a 20a board. You would need a different board to go to 40a.

You might want to look at the DNA boards.

captainmac40 · « **Reply #446 on:** September 30, 2018, 06:00:33 PM »

Quote

The OKL2-T20 is a 20a board. You would need a different board to go to 40a.

You might want to look at the DNA boards.

Yes I know it's an 20A board, I know also he as an sync pin to sync 2 or more same board. But I don't know how can sync. With an PWM signal ?

That's my question.

I know the DNA board also but the okl is an piece of my arduino based project.

Thanks !