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Could it be the battery holder im using.
I check the 20K resister as I read here that that is the most common issue. When I check it with a meter it reads 14.7K and when I check a brand new one it reads 19.8K. I believe the 19.8K is ok but what would make the one in my test layout read 14.7K? ANy help would be great.Thank You.
I believe the 19.8K is ok but what would make the one in my test layout read 14.7K? ANy help would be great.
...Only thing left to figure out is why my minimum voltage is 3.6 and highest is 5.28-5.3
No time for mistakes or inaccuracies and we put these things next to our faces.
Juicy - I used these on my OKL2. Used a 2.2k ohm pot and 1.43k resistor for the circuit, gives right around 2.5 - 5.6 volt control. Looks very similar to the Axiz mod pot, works great, fantastic quality, will be using them in all box modes that I make in the future, both for my own and for others!!Yes they are pricey.http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?v=716&FV=fff40004%2Cfff80335&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25Parts list for my 20amp mod:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P16NP222MAB15/P16NP-2.2K-ND/1587862https://www.fasttech.com/p/1258801http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html (The new one with 22mm washer)Radio Shack switch 1.43k resistor4x22u caps (2 input, 2 output)20 gaugeOn/Off slide switchNo screen, no reverse polarity protection, no voltage cut. Some of the better modders may be able to fit it in that box, but I could not. Great mod for myself, but wouldn't give to anyone else.What amazes me, is that at 3.7 volts my Kayfun hits easily as hard as it does off a Penny Mod (pure copper mech with the lowest recorded drop) using a fresh charged VTC-5! In fact, the only tank I have that can consistently wick fast enough over 4 volts is my Expromizer. .69 and .74 ohm builds respectively. VV mods have now replaced all my mechanicals! After typing the above I decided to try my Stillare at .28 ohms dialed up to 5.5 volts........ really bad idea
A build like Craigs will do what you want and it will stay put but yeah very difficult.
can please someone help me.im building a box but i dint want to use fuse,reverse polarity LED lights..can someone post wiring diagram? and part needed ?thanks
If you're not going to add a fuse or p-fet, wire Vin to the batt + contact on the batt holder. If you're not going to use the n-fet, wire on/off control to one leg of the fire switch and wire the other leg of the fire switch to ground.
hi mamu thank you for your reply..i have another question,, can i still use zener diode? and i still need 4x 47uF 16v output caps in parallel on vout? im little confuse because in your parts list it says 4x 47uF 16v output caps in parallel (GRM32ER61C476ME15L)..and i dont see those caps on the diagram picture. thanks
I have a really dumb question. I built my mode and I know what everything is for and how it works except for the N-Fet. Can someone tell me what the N-Fet is for and why I need it? Just trying to educate myself a little in the process.Thank you.BFBCAcid
So quick question, I noticed the PTR08100W can be pushed over its spec'd 5.5v up to 6v using a slightly lower fixed resistor with the pot. Is that possible with this chip im guessing about a 1.3k fixed resistor should be about the right value when the pot is zerod for 6V. Wondering if anyone has tried or is the 5.5v a hard limit? Thanks
These converters also include under voltage lockout (UVLO), output short circuit protection, overcurrentand over temperature protections.
Random question, how do these fuses fail