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Maybe someone else who knows more about electronics/arduino's can answer my questions, so I'll just ask.What is the purpose of the 100 ohm POT connected to the N-FET and A0 on the Arduino? If it is required, would any 100 ohm pot be suitable? The purpose was to allow a variable resistance to calibrate the Ohm measurement circuit. Following the original wiring diagram, I have found that it is not totally necessary as the values can be adjusted via code. You do need a refference load to calibrate it with.The part of the circuit diagram with the 1.3k res + 1.5k pot on Rtrim of the OKL seems off, would it be ok to use a 1k or 1.5k ohm pot as specified in the arduino-less implementations of the OKL2? The values were chosen to provide I wider range of voltage control they are not "off" they are simply not exactly what was used in that build. These values if I remember right should go from 2.5-6 volts rather than 3-5.5 like the other build.The zener diode and 1A fuse in the circuit diagram are not needed, correct? Correct, not needed at all and totally redundant.In order to use the arduino with Vout on the OKL2 of >5v, I would have to implement a basic resistor based voltage divider (2x 1k ohm resistors) and modify the code to adjust accordingly, correct? Yes, that is correct. It is the same way I did the battery voltage measurement. You can duplicate that voltage divider on the atty voltage input. The code is already setup for the divider, the wiring diagram just doesn't reflect it.Are there any other issues with the circuit diagram? Probably. I need to go through it again Take it as a starting point but not a 100% one. I am learning as I go too!I am very comfortable writing the code for the arduino but I want to make sure the physical circuit is sound. If you read through the second post, you will see what aspects of the circuit are working 100% (most of it).Also, does anyone know how the setup in this thread actually works, meaning, does the main pot connected to the OKL2 still just adjust voltage and the arduino does nothing more than provide a fancy display of various parameters or is there a way to make it function more like a DNA/Gi2/VariAnt whereby you are adjusting the wattage from A-B and the arduino takes care of the voltage adjustment. I assume this would require the use of a digital pot or something but I'm not sure. The way it works is the 1st way you describe, adjustment is done via the pot. I hate buttons and find that it is way more efficient to just grab a knob and turn than press a button like 100 times to go from low to high power.
I think the closest you can get is 1k or maybe 500 Ohms, which is fine if the pot has enough taps.
Sounds like you have a handle on it, yeah, more taps means less difference in resistance as the you increment or decrement the resistance value. In other words you get better resolution.
Karadorde,I am very anxiously awaiting your notes and progress. Thank you for your work on this. Your rockin bro I have my 20A raptor board and box, just waiting on some notes and code so I can make myself 20a raptor box mod like no other!If theres anything I can do to add to this or help please let me know.
Trying to put together a raptor build based on mamu's diagram, still need two things, preferably from digikey, I need the reverse polarity led and the voltmeter any recommendations?
The GE DLynx can be controlled with PMBus and I have seen some projects using it. I am working on some ideas that incorporate an MCU with a new Murata chip that is coming to market.