0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
i'm really interested to know the parameters within which this measures coil temperature, if indeed that is what it does do. As surely it would need to know coil material/mass/surface area to volume ratio, to give any accurate measurement. Specific heat capacity of a coil with a given resistance can vary wildly depending on how it is wound. Perhaps it has a blue tooth link up to an app for coil data input or something? I can't see how it can make any accurate assessment of temperature from just currant/voltage/resistance info.
Interesting stuff. First question that pops into my head is what happens to battery life when you run it temperature protected, since the resistance has to soooo low?
Says it has 93% eff but at 15A thats gonna do some battery hogging Break can now chat about it woot woot Wondering why they didn't use stainless steel or can SS be substituted..
Slapping myself in the face now. I should have checked for this earlier. I can confirm the on board fire switch needs to be left in place. I just got my 40 in today and removed the switch just like I had on my 20s and 30s and nothing. I've been troubleshooting for hours trying to figure it out then ran across this. Oh well, live and learn, I'll try to make a jumper somehow but with that small area it's pretty safe to say this one is toast. I'll give it a shot though.
It's not toast! This is how I jumped the switch contacts. I used some copper tape from my scale miniature days and carefully backed it with kapton tape. It's very doable.http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/Littlefeather_Design/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Amp%20Mod/AMPOnBoardSwitchRemoved-2_zpsec6f5b38.jpg.html?sort=6&o=11
@littlefeather thats is some skillzzzz you got there. what is that material for the board mount you used called?
Really interesting thread that I wish I had read before building mine, I tried to remove the fire switch by cutting the legs with side cutters but destroyed the positive pads, I put a link between the two negitive pads as I could see under test the were at different voltages. It seems to work fine except you need to press the fire button after power on to get the board to start, the up/down buttons don't but they do wake it from sleep. I have a minute bit of track on the right side of the positive (screen connection upward) but nothing on the left does anyone know the next point in the circuit that I could jump a wire from for this?
Do other peoples DNA40s power on after changing the battery without pressing the fire button?
Never paid much attention to it until you asked. I just did a battery swap-out and the display remains off until I press the fire button.
uhmmmmm thats the 6th DNA40 box i made, unfortunately mine just shows that and wont go "up" i dont know why i have so many issue with DNA haha. can anybody help??? i know the stuck "up" button can only be fixed by evolve, i was wondering if the stuck down button is the same thing.
I don't have anything connected to the leads and nothing is pressing on the onboard button. Do you have any insight on how to get it unstuck? Will it be software related?