Author Topic: LCD Meter Volts/Ohms/Amps/Batt Charge Indicator Wiring for Regulated Mods... (Read 18683 times)

mamu · « **on:** March 04, 2015, 10:17:12 PM »

Displays input voltage, output voltage, ohms, amps, and batt charge level.

Just need to get it in a Raptor 20A mod now. woot!

mamu · « **Reply #1 on:** March 04, 2015, 10:54:59 PM »

Madyicstik · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2015, 09:52:49 AM »

MAMU where can i get one?

mamu · « **Reply #3 on:** March 05, 2015, 03:22:17 PM »

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=Lithium+Li-ion+battery+tester+LCD+meter+Voltage%2FCurrent%2FCapacity&ghostText=&_sacat=0

Visus · « **Reply #4 on:** March 05, 2015, 06:32:54 PM »

You win another golden vape chalice award Mamu wow

I was wondering what haps with bat meter when measure atomizer on reg, cool, it just drops out.

Could ya just put a transistor on it to switch from bat to 510 when you fire the mod?

Then that way you can have it drop back onto mah meter as soon as you stop firing it?
Or does it do that I am not sure..

IDK, learning about transistors but that seems applicable and no manual switching..

Found what I want mine to do in a spdt switch woot.. pos 1 meter on bat pos 2 opens n fet fires mod turns off pos to meter and meter measures 510, gotta test it.. Seems plausible Mamu?

--------------------
More measuring options your way on one switch but...

What draw does the raptor have at 3A output I am also curious.. lol

Thanks

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/EP12SD1SAPE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxtGF7dlGNpj%2fbg6w8MI0Na%252bXm30MoeaM%3d

david4500 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:23:10 AM »

Nice!

Have you pushed the 10 amp limit of the meter with the Raptor 20a?

mamu · « **Reply #6 on:** March 06, 2015, 02:11:39 PM »

Visus - I've got the meter inline with an N-FET for switching and current handling and the meter is handling that aok with no glitches so far. I'm putzing with it cause I want to use independent tact switches I think rather than a DPDT switch. Still in the planning and testing stage with it though.

David - no haven't tested above 10A as I'm on cruise control at around 7A so had no need to push it. I just love the Raptor 20A converter even though it's way overkill for me.

Visus · « **Reply #7 on:** March 06, 2015, 02:53:47 PM »

yay

The missing link has been found.

Gotta bug ya on ecf about it now...

Raptors are da cool I just did a silly vape test on why so; {Frequency} set my 08100 to 30w and 4050 to 30w vaping same atomizer 08100 is 300k frq 4050 is 600k frq like the okr/raptor Raptor is soooo smoooth lol ya its great... Both are goodness but the 600k frequency is boss of uber smooth.. Every vaper must try these frequencies and most consumer mods are not @ either frq, so gotta make the mods for the peoples lol...

mamu · « **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2015, 03:54:55 PM »

David - have some power resistors coming in so will test to see how the meter handles a 20A load. Will let you know.

Visus · « **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2015, 04:28:41 PM »

Quote from: mamu;

What that's telling you, Visus, is to calibrate the meter you will need to short the calibration button (i.e., press the switch if it's hooked to a switch) and apply 10V source, 1A load.

I have a DC power supply so no biggie with 10V. I don't have a 10 ohm power resistor that will handle 10W though, so will need to get one.

ETA: I heard back from the seller...

Calibration method:
1. to short circuit connect the calibration point .(see the enclosure)
2. At the same time adding 10V input voltage and 1A load current
3. If the final screen display PAS ,and back to normal after 1 second,so calibration success
4. power off, disconnect the calibration points, with electricity can test again.

Holy freakin cow your read mandarin lol..

Awesome Mamu

Woot woot

My idea when I do it, ghetto fancy bench dialer
04050 or my hacked 08100 @10v &
Kanthal 28 AWG Gauge A1 Wire 100' Roll .32mm , 5.27 Ohms/ft
~2ft of 28ga kanthal lol ghetto beautiful..

PoppaVic60 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2015, 04:36:32 PM »

Mamu:

Decided to order a pair of these, and asked they send a manual.. Looks like something fun for MCU tinkering at the least ;-)

mamu · « **Reply #11 on:** March 17, 2015, 09:50:50 PM »

I fried a meter figuring this one out.

This one was easy though.

PoppaVic60 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 18, 2015, 12:16:54 AM »

Looks like you'll end up writing the manual they didn't bother to write. *sigh*

Blowing at $17 part to learn things is.. Expensive.

PoppaVic60 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 20, 2015, 11:31:57 PM »

Well, of all the ebay parts still stuck in china - the Malaysian chinee-displays arrived today. I still need a day off to find the bench, print the "manual" and try to puzzle it out - and Mamu keeps this target moving ;-)

(and I'd love a way to cat-proof the area: she just LOVES to drag off parts if I call it a night)

mamu · « **Reply #14 on:** March 23, 2015, 05:23:59 PM »

I was going to say your idea of a manual and the Chinese idea of a manual are hugely different, Poppa lol.

I tried to get a datasheet, but no go there. I'd like to wire the meter so the backlight automatically comes on when the meter is powered on. Still waiting for a reply for that.

PoppaVic60 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 24, 2015, 12:11:41 AM »

mamu: come on now! I'm a *big* fan of "manpages" (at the very least ;-)

Meanwhile, shipment #2 - or the rest of my ebay-tinkering stuff - has landed. (Mostly unmarked, so now to puzzle out which is which there, too ;-)

By the way, attached is a pdf-dump of a .doc they gave me for a "manual":

mamu · « **Reply #16 on:** March 27, 2015, 11:41:17 PM »

Mory Raptor 20A 120W with LCD meter (displays input volts, batt status indicator, output volts, ohms, amps).

3D printed C frame, sleeve, dual 18650 batt sled, and parts harnesses. The first one shown is woodFill from ColorFabb. The second one (not wired yet) is blue ABS frame, blue ABS dual 18650 batt sled, and black ABS sleeve.

I pre-wired the meter and Raptor before placing in the case, everything else was wired/soldered while in the case... fun NOT lol.

510 connector from Rob Ellard of StealthVape. Mums the word on details for now, but I really like it! Has two especially well thought out features that make it one of the best 510 connectors available to modders. One feature especially all 510 connectors should have but as far as I know none do yet.

Breaktru · « **Reply #17 on:** March 28, 2015, 08:06:09 AM »

Great work mamu. The meter looks good in your masterpiece of a mod

wa9w00d · « **Reply #18 on:** March 28, 2015, 09:12:28 AM »

Sweet stuff there, Mamu! You never fail to impress.

BUT: " Mums the word on details for now, but I really like it! "

Oh, you tease! JK, I understand, you have to.

I'll be keeping an eye on the StealthVape website, though.

Wayne

mamu · « **Reply #19 on:** March 29, 2015, 06:30:31 PM »

Thanks breaktru and wa9!

wa9w00d · « **Reply #20 on:** April 24, 2015, 11:51:35 AM »

Well, I just checked the StealthVape site, the connector is now listed, http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electronic-cigarette-mod-parts/2nd-generation-spring-loaded-510-connector

But it is out of stock at the moment. It is sweet though. PEEK insulator, very shallow intrusion into the inclosure, direct solder to the (non-moving) center contact.

I'll be getting some when they come back in stock!

Wayne

ETA: On review, thought I miss-spelled enclosure.....found out that it can be spelled either way. Learn something every day, eh?

kenworth t660 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 01, 2015, 05:07:24 PM »

Just a quick question I'm trying to build the 120 watt raptor using a potentiometer. I've already built one that works awesome but now I've run into a problem on 2 others I'm building. One is using 2 18650 batteries. The other is 2 26650 batteries. The only way they will fire is if the potentiometer is up all the way. I used the schematic I've seen on the net by mamu on all 3 mods. I've checked my wiring multiple times and they match the diagram. Has anyone ran into this situation before?

mamu · « **Reply #22 on:** May 01, 2015, 11:16:49 PM »

Sounds like the POT is either not connected or has failed or is not a 200 ohm POT. What max resistance do you get when you meter the POT?

wacd · « **Reply #23 on:** May 27, 2015, 07:08:27 AM »

What does other 2 pins do in the right corner of the board ?
I see you soldered 2 blue wires to them

mamu · « **Reply #24 on:** June 03, 2015, 10:01:47 PM »

The 2 blue wires are soldered to the calibration connection which I connected to a tact switch. Don't mess with it unless you need to calibrate the meter - you will need a 10V source and 1A load to do that.

timesarerough · « **Reply #25 on:** June 03, 2015, 11:42:41 PM »

Hmmmmm....this is interesting.

[8-50V 0-100A]

ambivalent · « **Reply #26 on:** June 12, 2015, 02:03:46 PM »

nvm, i figured it out!

danilo · « **Reply #27 on:** July 24, 2015, 02:24:29 PM »

For the battery charge level, can it monitor both the supplying battery and the battery that it is charging? Can this be calibrated quickly to accommodate different power sources like different battery types for travelers? Can the input and output voltage be calibrated and to what extent or what voltage range?

electronics assembly

mamu · « **Reply #28 on:** July 24, 2015, 08:43:02 PM »

Quote from: danilo on July 24, 2015, 02:24:29 PM

For the battery charge level, can it monitor both the supplying battery and the battery that it is charging? Can this be calibrated quickly to accommodate different power sources like different battery types for travelers? Can the input and output voltage be calibrated and to what extent or what voltage range?

I would say no and it's not something I have tinkered with, so you'll need to contact the manufacturer.