Copper Tube Mods - A 3.7v and a V.V.

[Breaktru]

A mechanical mod or VV mod, you will break the battery connection with a Mosfet to make a touch switch. With a single 18650 you will need a lower Vgs(th) voltage than for a series battery. Using it in a tube/copper mod you should use a P-Channel to break the battery positive unless you insert the battery with the positive facing the bottom cap. Then you can use an N-Channel Mosfet.

SEE: P-Channel Mosfet For Copper Tube Mod

[CraigHB]

You just need to select the correct MOSFET.  You need one that can operate properly with the voltage of a single battery.  There's tons available like that. 

[dancrowder]

New to modding and have a question about this build. Beautiful job btw !!! Will this mod handle sub ohm vaping? I'm not that wise on electrical stuff but I know that if you're running a 0.4 ohm dual coil RBA with a 18650 battery, at full charge of 4.1 V you're gonna push 10.25 Amps, or a 0.2 ohm quad coil pushes 20.5 Amps. Will that switch handle it being rated at 3 Amps? It might me a stupid question (cause the obvious logic says "NO") but am I going to need a heavier amp switch?

[Breaktru]

Welcome Dan to the forum.
There is no reason why it' can't handle subohms, as long as you beef up the switch rating and use capable batteries such as the Sony 30 amp ones.

Or..... use a low current switch with a capable mosfet

[dancrowder]

Thanks for the advice. I built this mod 2 days ago with all press on. No soldering (except the pos connecting wires) Pressed in the 510 connector, pushed on the top an bottom caps, spring inside is placed in bottom cap, button is pushed in. (Basically made a prototype to play around with) Switch is a 3A rated button horn black style switch I got from www.madvapes.com. Been running it the past 2 days with a 0.4 ohm braided coil on a 2 post RBA and a 18650 1600mAh battery with no trouble at all. Massive clouds!! And surprisingly, the 510 connector part of the mod doesn't get hot at all even with prolonged / constant use. BRILLIANT IDEA FOR THIS MOD!!! Didn't wanna spend the $$ on a mech and I hate the bottom push button style. Will be working on some of the other DIY mods on here! THANK YOU AGAIN FOR POSTING THIS!!!

[Breaktru]

Great Dan. It sounds awesome dude 

[Nickgold123]

I apologize in advance if this is in the wrong place, I'm new to forums.

I'm wondering if anyone has threaded copper pipe before. I've read this and that about how it's not made to be threaded blah blah, I know.  My objective is to make a copper tube mod with threaded end connections - battery end and 510 connection end.
Is there other 3/4" pipes around that are thick enough to be threaded with a 7/8 tap and die? Or is there other tap and dies that don't cut the threads as deep?

Thanks for the help

[Nickgold123]

Just figured out how to post pics on my phone. Here's my 2 copper mods. One switch, one no switch

[Breaktru]

Just figured out how to post pics on my phone. Here's my 2 copper mods. One switch, one no switch

Nice work Nick. They came out very well 
How are you firing the NO switch one?

[Nickgold123]

The 510 is spring loaded to the pos batt terminal

[Nickgold123]

Did you see the post about threading the pipes? I'm really stumped on this but I need to find a way

[Breaktru]

Did you see the post about threading the pipes? I'm really stumped on this but I need to find a way

Yes I saw it. I can't help you with actually threading copper tubing but they make copper threaded/sweat fittings and threaded brass plugs male and female




I also mentioned it in this thread in post: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,162.msg7425.html#msg7425

[Nickgold123]

I'm going to pick up a few taps and dies and just keep modding till it's perfect. I'll def post pics when I'm done.

[aflex]

I really don't how it works but had a lot of complaints with earlier ones. Looking forward to use it. Thanks for this.

[jomurp]

I really don't how it works but had a lot of complaints with earlier ones. Looking forward to use it. Thanks for this.

? please explain?

[Razgul]

Such a beautiful piece of work, i'm hoping to start on mine soon.

[Johnrhue]

So if I wanna be able to subohm with this mod. Let's say .3ohms. I wouldn't be able to use the 3amp switch correct?

[Breaktru]

So if I wanna be able to subohm with this mod. Let's say .3ohms. I wouldn't be able to use the 3amp switch correct?

What is the voltage rating of the 3A switch?
For example: 3A @ 24V would be
6A @ 12V
12A @ 6V
18A @ 4.5V
24A @ 3V

Using a 3A @125v switch would be: (Remember this is an example and the break down is not Linear as I am implying.)
6A @ 62.5V
12A @ 31.25V
24A @ 15.625V
48A @ 7.8125V
96A @ 3.90625V


A 0.3 ohm coil @ 4.2v would be 14A - Your battery would have to be able to handle it.

It's not really linear as my example shows but if you are using a 3.7v battery with a 3A/125V switch, you should be able to handle a 0.3 ohm load.
See Craig's post HERE

[zander_47]

I feel so unoriginal... hahaha about a week ago I decided I wanted to build a mod! So I thought about it and decided copper would be best considering it conducts so well.. plus its pretty easy to work with. So after a few days of gathering supplies I thought I would look into it online and wow... I had a very similar mod in mind! Anyways, once I saw that other people had been building the same copper mod (for a few years, apparently!) I decided I would just follow the same design because a) its been tested and b) I'm new to all this and needed a bit of a place to start. So, I build my mod today. I don't have pictures right now but it all went pretty smoothly! Until the end.. when I tried to use it and got nothing -.- I have a thread posted on ECF about it,

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/544810-my-first-mod-having-difficulties-please-help.html

But basically, the cap that I have my 510 heating element mounted in doesn't seem to be conducting any sort of current. I was assuming that I would be able to ground the battery to the copper tubing (via the compression spring) and that would be enough? But its definitely not working.. I did a bit of trouble shooting, and am about 90% sure that the cap is the problem.. I just can't figure out what's wrong with it! Any ideas?

[Breaktru]

Any photos so we can help troubleshoot?
How did you ground the 510 connector?

To test the integrity of the ground thru the tube body, take a heavy gauge jumper, preferably 20 gauge and touch it to the bottom cap and the other end to the 510 outer base while firing.

[Learfx]

Yeah you need to post more information. Pictures of the mod and close ups of the caps and connections would be good.

[fsors]

Any photos so we can help troubleshoot?
How did you ground the 510 connector?

To test the integrity of the ground thru the tube body, take a heavy gauge jumper, preferably 20 gauge and touch it to the bottom cap and the other end to the 510 outer base while firing.

cold solder joint 

[zander_47]

i used this as the positive connection
this is where the battery slides in


it looks dirty because after I pushed the 510 into the cap (it was a snug fit) I put a bit of glue on the inside to make sure it would stay sturdy long term. Then I sanded some of the copper down (for the cutout) without realizing it hadn't fully dried and the shavings stuck to the glue







I hope this helps! If you would like more pictures/ different angle let me know and I can post them for you. Once again, thanks a ton for the help!

[fsors]

try soldering the 510 connector to the cap so you will have a neg connection 
you will need to do it with a torch 

[zander_47]

To test the integrity of the ground thru the tube body, take a heavy gauge jumper, preferably 20 gauge and touch it to the bottom cap and the other end to the 510 outer base while firing.

I did this, and it fires nicely! i used alligator clips to connect the two ends, but when I take the clip off of the 510 and place it on the copper cap that its mounted in, it no longer fires. I also thought to myself that perhaps i had blocked the 510 from touching the cap with the glue I used, so I put a big glob of solder connecting the side of the copper cap to the 510... if I connect from the body to the solder glob it fires, but if I connect from the body to the copper cap just next to the solder, it no longer fires.

[fsors]

yes, that makes sense try reading my last post above  and best of luck 

[zander_47]

try soldering the 510 connector to the cap so you will have a neg connection 
you will need to do it with a torch 

I tried this, but I didn't use a torch because I didn't want to damage the 510. Would it be ok to use a torch?

[fsors]

I tried this, but I didn't use a torch because I didn't want to damage the 510. Would it be ok to use a torch?

Remove the center pin and insulator and solder the 510 to the cap with a torch then after cooling replace the insulator and center pin this will solve all of the problem 

[zander_47]

Whoops.. I got impatient and didn't take out the center pin or anything. Hahaha but anyways...
SUCCESS! I'm not sure what exactly did it.. but I took a lot of it apart, changed all the wires from 22 gauge to 18 gauge, put a new switch on (the contacts on the original broke when I took it apart) took the 510 out of the cap, cleaned everything with steel wool and re-mounted it with flux, solder, and a blowtorch (before I read your post about taking out the center pin.. but it still works great)! Then I used flux to clean the cap up nicely, along with where it meets the body (and inside the body a bit as well. I read it helps prevent oxidation?), and I insulated the contact points on the switch with electrical tape. Thank you very much for all the advice, it definitely helped! Now I just need to cut a T in the bottom of the body and put a screw in the cap with the compression spring so it holds in place nicely! For now though, I'm quite happy with the way it turned out!

[fsors]

Whoops.. I got impatient and didn't take out the center pin or anything. Hahaha but anyways...
SUCCESS! I'm not sure what exactly did it.. but I took a lot of it apart, changed all the wires from 22 gauge to 18 gauge, put a new switch on (the contacts on the original broke when I took it apart) took the 510 out of the cap, cleaned everything with steel wool and re-mounted it with flux, solder, and a blowtorch (before I read your post about taking out the center pin.. but it still works great)! Then I used flux to clean the cap up nicely, along with where it meets the body (and inside the body a bit as well. I read it helps prevent oxidation?), and I insulated the contact points on the switch with electrical tape. Thank you very much for all the advice, it definitely helped! Now I just need to cut a T in the bottom of the body and put a screw in the cap with the compression spring so it holds in place nicely! For now though, I'm quite happy with the way it turned out!

Congratulations! You are welcome! Enjoy your new vape! 

[zander_47]

Darn.. well I was enjoying it quite thoroughly! But then something bad happened. Hahaha the center pin fell out of the 510! How might I go about putting it back in?

[Learfx]

Pull the silicon grommet out of the 510 connector body and make sure it's not ripped or cut in any way.  I'm assuming your solder joint broke on the center post..  What you  need to do is reinsert the silicon grommet into the 510 body first, use a little vg or something to lube the grommet to prevent tearing. Then push the positive wire through the bottom of the connector. solder the center post back on, make sure you don't glob too much solder on it or it will not pass through the grommet easily and you'll end up tearing it. Once you've soldered he center post back on just push it gently through the silicon grommet until it seats normally.

[Phestr]

  I love this forum.  You guys always have so much patience.  Zander, you're in good hands.

[zander_47]

I love this forum.  You guys always have so much patience.  Zander, you're in good hands.

Seriously, this place is awesome. Unbelievably helpful for a beginner like me!


But Learfx, what if the grommet is torn?

[Learfx]

Then you're screwed....     You're going to have to get the grommet out of another 510 connector or you could try to use the grommet out of a broken mod, old carto, atty or some other cartridge... you could try to make something out of another material but I've not went that rout personally... You should probably order some 510 connectors from somewhere like madvapes... It would be safer that way.  If you try to use a torn one then you risk the mod shorting the battery out or something more dangerous. It would be nice to find someone that sold just the grommets.

[Nickgold123]

For shits and giggles, that's the new and improved "Compressor". Barely bigger than the 650 battery and no screws! :-D

[Breaktru]

You can get replacements as mentioned HERE

Or make your own as mentioned HERE

I've trimmed down these insulators from an old carto shown in the photo:

[zander_47]

I ended up pulling one out of an old atomizer I had! Had to trim it a bit, then glue it in place with some hot glue... I actually just filled the inside of the 510 with glue (where its wired) and it works nicely! Not wiggling around or anything, so it seems to have done the trick until I can order some of the replacements

[David-Bowser]

OK I thought I would post my picture of the Copper mod I made.  It is strictly a Mech mod as I do not know enough about electronics to mess with them.  The shortest piece of Copper pipe in my area was a 4 footer.  I wasted (more or less) of about 3 inches playing around with it.  I built this before joining this group  and it was strictly by the seat of my pants.  So I have enough to make a few more  LOL.

It is a 18650  battery job,  for the spacer between the battery and switch I used a piece of 3/4 inch dowel about 1/2 inch thick.  Since it was loose I wrapped it with duct tape about 2 1/2 times then supper glued it in place.  For the battery connector I used a T-Nut for the battery to touch with a brass bolt on the top going down through and the wire wrapped around it to the switch.  Yes the switch is a plastic horn button switch I had on hand.  It is a tight fit in the hole I drilled with no wiggle.  If it wiggled I would have used an Epoxy glue glob to mount it.  It will be a throw away mod one of these days.   I now know about small 3amp switches  So that will be next.

The top cap has a pressed in and super glued 510 connector, I did not know about how to solder it in.  Next time though.. I was lucky the glue did not insulate the connector.  The bottom cap also has the spring super glued in place,  again I was lucky  Both the top and botton caps fit tight enough they will not come off (YET).  I left about a 1/4 inch space under the bottom of the battery so the spring did not crush. 

It works with both flat top and button top batteries and hits hard.  I pictured it with my Helios vaping but the backdrop did not show it.

[drmarble]

You can use the grommet from a pro-tank head to replace the grommet in most 510 connectors. Those are cheap. A used one can probably be obtained for free.  I've found that the silicone ones slide in just fine and last quite a while. I've tested for 2 months.
Hope this helps.

[Rigure]

Hi guys...or gals as the case may be. New to the forum...at least postingwise. Thanks breaktru for giving me all the information you have on how and what to do to make a functional copper pipe mod. I wanted to show off my firt piece. Its a ego style battery useing 1/2" copper type L pipe. ... why you as would ANYONE want an     ego style mod...easy answer... my wife does. Lol. Anyway, I electro eteched it with her nickname and cute litle heart. It will use the ego pcb and the button. I havent drilled it out for the pb yet and I still hhave alot of polishing to do but here it is. Thanks again.


Allmot forgot.im using Fat Daddys 510 connecter. It was the right dize without the 22mm locking ring.

[Learfx]

Nice    What did you use on the top for the 510 connection? I can't make it out..  It's cool to see the electro etching. 

[Rigure]

Nice    What did you use on the top for the 510 connection? I can't make it out..  It's cool to see the electro etching. 

I used the 510 connector from Fat Daddys Vapes. 14 mm with ajustable contacts. It comes at 14 mm but he sends a ring that locks in for 22mm mods. Its a nice piece of work. I recomend it for modding.

[Breaktru]

Congrats on your first mod Rigure and thanks for posting.
Luv the etching. Looks great. 

[carlsoti]

awesome copper mods!

[Stevo2569]

Lots of shinny coolness. Nice work guys. Heres my take on copper. Parallel dual bat fused and mosfeted with copper plumeveil. Cheers and Happy Holidays.

[Breaktru]

I can surely say that this is a truly unique design.
Looks like a two hander.
Congrats

[Stevo2569]

Thanks Break, Guess you could use 2 hands. LOL. It actually fits snug around my finger base leaving them free to hold other things (like juice or whatever). Almost a hands free design.

[Breaktru]

What size batts?

[Stevo2569]

18650. 3/4 pipe. Similar connections as your in your OP. Except I thought of it 3 yrs after you and I used wood.  Added pic for size comparison.