Author Topic: .44 mini Booster Box Mod Variable Voltage (Read 483666 times)

utak3r · « **Reply #300 on:** February 15, 2013, 07:45:59 AM »

Well, indeed it makes you a "screw-guy"

but in some way I got used to it.
Anyway, when I will move to some bigger box, I'll make it probably with a digi-pot.

Can you suggest some box for housing 18490? I saw you've made one...

Breaktru · « **Reply #301 on:** February 15, 2013, 08:16:13 AM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 15, 2013, 07:45:59 AM

Can you suggest some box for housing 18490? I saw you've made one...

Well that all depends on what size you are looking for.

My smallest is a 9v battery box (sold everywhere) but not much room left for a D.P.

Then for an ABS a bit bigger is the PacTek box - CNL-0029

For aluminum and about the size of a pack of smokes is the Hammond 1455C801 or Evatron - EVA1544C801C

utak3r · « **Reply #302 on:** February 16, 2013, 10:33:30 AM »

Well, it's working!

And it works surprisingly well. Now, off to some bigger one - and feature richier

Thanks BreakTru!

Sorin003 · « **Reply #303 on:** February 16, 2013, 01:17:56 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on February 15, 2013, 08:16:13 AM

For aluminum and about the size of a pack of smokes is the Hammond 1455C801 or Evatron - EVA1544C801C

Really like Evatron!

Breaktru · « **Reply #304 on:** February 16, 2013, 01:25:22 PM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 16, 2013, 10:33:30 AM

Well, it's working! And it works surprisingly well. Now, off to some bigger one - and feature richier
Thanks BreakTru!

Cool. Glad it worked well.
Do you worry about short circuits with the exposed bare wiring?

utak3r · « **Reply #305 on:** February 16, 2013, 02:33:37 PM »

Wiring is not "bare". It's a coil winding wire, having a quite tough coating - but transparent. I'm using this wire for few years, it's really good, as it's temperature resistant - taking this coating off is done with your soldering tool

Breaktru · « **Reply #306 on:** February 16, 2013, 03:36:24 PM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 16, 2013, 02:33:37 PM

Wiring is not "bare". It's a coil winding wire, having a quite tough coating - but transparent. I'm using this wire for few years, it's really good, as it's temperature resistant - taking this coating off is done with your soldering tool

Gotcha, it looked like bare wire

jeandbean · « **Reply #307 on:** February 16, 2013, 03:40:18 PM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 16, 2013, 02:33:37 PM

Wiring is not "bare". It's a coil winding wire, having a quite tough coating - but transparent. I'm using this wire for few years, it's really good, as it's temperature resistant - taking this coating off is done with your soldering tool

yes it did look like uninsulated wire. I too thought so

utak3r · « **Reply #308 on:** February 16, 2013, 04:20:07 PM »

I'm shocked: after 8 hours of vaping 2.2 Ohm coil on 4.3V, my TrustFire has 3.58V in it!

However, this is the old TF cell, bought looong time ago, before the world got spammed with no-so-original ones... I was lucky to buy a whole bunch of them ca. 2 years ago...

Anyway: it exceeded my expectations

It's a quite high efficiency.

Breaktru · « **Reply #309 on:** February 16, 2013, 04:51:41 PM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 16, 2013, 04:20:07 PM

I'm shocked: after 8 hours of vaping 2.2 Ohm coil on 4.3V, my TrustFire has 3.58V in it!
However, this is the old TF cell, bought looong time ago, before the world got spammed with no-so-original ones... I was lucky to buy a whole bunch of them ca. 2 years ago...

Anyway: it exceeded my expectations It's a quite high efficiency.

Very good. I was getting 7 1/2 hrs on my TF flames and only 4 hrs on my AW IMR.

pnguin · « **Reply #310 on:** February 20, 2013, 04:22:47 AM »

Got my new sample ptn04050cad, h, and z samples today. I am going to give this mod another try Friday. Hopefully these samples won't be bad like the last 2. Good thing I just took a surface mount soldering class.

Breaktru · « **Reply #311 on:** February 20, 2013, 07:52:42 AM »

Quote from: pnguin on February 20, 2013, 04:22:47 AM

Got my new sample ptn04050cad, h, and z samples today. I am going to give this mod another try Friday. Hopefully these samples won't be bad like the last 2. Good thing I just took a surface mount soldering class.

Hope you have better luck with these.

Just to point out some obvious tips that I may have mentioned before:
Avoid excessive heat/time when soldering the board pins.
Be careful of solder flow around board posts. Tiny components are mounted close to solder points.
Before powering up, double/triple check wiring correctness.
Avoid using very low atty/carto resistance.
Avoid powering with no load as per datasheet. It doesn't mention what a load is but a meter may do.
Take note of capacitor polarity

audiophile_user · « **Reply #312 on:** February 21, 2013, 01:42:38 AM »

@breaktru

i've made myself a booster mod using Panasonic CGR High Drain battery 18650

i've burned it and tested in on various atty's i tried and tested it on .6ohm atty. it burned the regulator just for my curiosity.

it seems the best Low Resistance Build on an Rebuildable atomizer is 1.4 ohms. the ideal based on my observations. looks good on a vivi nova mini tank

question i substituted the resistors on pin 3 and pin 4 using 10k 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt and 4.7k 1/4 watt. Can i use the 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt? does it make a difference? Please let me know. likewise i used this potentiometer

just to confirm my assumptions if there is a difference using that

like you mentioned on the other booster thread lower resistor "The higher the resistance the lower the voltage. And Vice-a Verse-a"

thank you so much for the guide

i will post photos of my creation soon Just to get something off my shopping lists

utak3r · « **Reply #313 on:** February 21, 2013, 02:30:17 AM »

Quote from: audiophile_user on February 21, 2013, 01:42:38 AM

Can i use the 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt? does it make a difference? Please let me know.

Yes, you can. You shouldn't change it the opposite way... this value says how much power it can dissipate. The only drawback for you is the size, which is bigger.

Breaktru · « **Reply #314 on:** February 21, 2013, 09:13:19 AM »

Quote from: audiophile_user on February 21, 2013, 01:42:38 AM

@breaktru

i've made myself a booster mod using Panasonic CGR High Drain battery 18650

i've burned it and tested in on various atty's i tried and tested it on .6ohm atty. it burned the regulator just for my curiosity.

it seems the best Low Resistance Build on an Rebuildable atomizer is 1.4 ohms. the ideal based on my observations. looks good on a vivi nova mini tank

question i substituted the resistors on pin 3 and pin 4 using 10k 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt and 4.7k 1/4 watt. Can i use the 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt? does it make a difference? Please let me know. likewise i used this potentiometer

just to confirm my assumptions if there is a difference using that

like you mentioned on the other booster thread lower resistor "The higher the resistance the lower the voltage. And Vice-a Verse-a"

thank you so much for the guide

i will post photos of my creation soon Just to get something off my shopping lists

The CGR is a great battery to use w/ this boost module especially because boost circuit amperage is higher on the input than on the output so a capable battery is necessary.

The reason I said to avoid low resistance atty/cartos is because this Boost-topology switching regulator is not short-circuit protected.
I found with using less capable batteries like the 14500 TF battery, it performs much better w/ load resistances of 2.0 and above.
I have used 0.5 ohm loads w/ Li-Po 20C batteries and worked really super exceeding over 30watts. But I wouldn't make that a regular practice for fear of damaging the module.

Something I would like to point out is that this PTN04050C was design to work with an output voltage of NO LESS THAN 5 volts. We are hacking the design to accommodate our ranges of output lower than the 5v. What I am saying is we are stressing out the module.

Utak3r is correct with saying that yes you can go higher w/ the wattage rating. You can always safely go higher in any type of circuit. It's just the physical size factor you have to deal with.
A 0.05 Watt (1/20 w) rated resistor is the min recommended size (or higher). 1% tolerance is also recommended.

By using the 10K instead of the 4.7K, you increase the bottom and top end of the output range.

audiophile_user · « **Reply #315 on:** February 21, 2013, 10:18:46 AM »

thanks for the quick reply everyone

the voltage without load is 5.4 to 4.2 with load is 5v to 3.4 i have to verify the voltage output again later on after the mod that i have created

thanks everyone again for the input i appreciate it

audiophile_user · « **Reply #316 on:** February 21, 2013, 10:21:24 AM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 21, 2013, 02:30:17 AM

Yes, you can. You shouldn't change it the opposite way... this value says how much power it can dissipate. The only drawback for you is the size, which is bigger.

utak3r thank you so much for your advise as well. i will build it this weekend with ease since i just got my surface mount pots just today and bought resistors from a local electronics shop. 10k 1/2 watt

PS: rebuilding that is

pnguin · « **Reply #317 on:** February 21, 2013, 03:30:16 PM »

Thanks for the tips. I am going to test the regs before use this time, with a 1k resistor for a load just to be sure. It will be nice to have a single battery small mod. All my others use the Dimension swadj3 reg and have to use two batteries for the correct input voltage.

utak3r · « **Reply #318 on:** February 21, 2013, 07:39:41 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on February 15, 2013, 08:16:13 AM

My smallest is a 9v battery box (sold everywhere) but not much room left for a D.P.

Damn, my 9V box is 1mm too thin!

Breaktru · « **Reply #319 on:** February 21, 2013, 08:51:31 PM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 21, 2013, 07:39:41 PM

Damn, my 9V box is 1mm too thin!

Explain.
Too thin for what? battery or for D.P.?

For battery:
See Photo

utak3r · « **Reply #320 on:** February 22, 2013, 02:22:13 AM »

Quote from: Breaktru on February 21, 2013, 08:51:31 PM

For battery:
See Photo

Ok, that solves the problem

jbs · « **Reply #321 on:** February 23, 2013, 09:47:41 AM »

Hello.

I have been lurking here for a long time and never had a time or patience to take couple of pictures and share with you for what i am sorry.

Since the topic is not dead and i own you at least that much, here are pictures of my take on .44 mini mod as a token of appreciation.

Breaktru · « **Reply #322 on:** February 23, 2013, 10:00:43 AM »

Quote from: jbs on February 23, 2013, 09:47:41 AM

Hello.

I have been lurking here for a long time and never had a time or patience to take couple of pictures and share with you for what i am sorry.

Since the topic is not dead and i own you at least that much, here are pictures of my take on .44 mini mod as a token of appreciation.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f9vf2g0aw4m6sno/jTk_1P6s2M

The posting of your build is much appreciated.

I wish more members who have benefited from this forum would do the same.

It came out great and the inside looks neat and tidy. Good work

jbs · « **Reply #323 on:** February 23, 2013, 10:06:42 AM »

No no dear Sir

Btw. I have another mod waiting to be published. Same box and same battery but this time its dna 12. I just love that box.

Right now i am trying to figure out how to use dropbox links lol.

utak3r · « **Reply #324 on:** February 26, 2013, 05:40:28 PM »

Just to hide some holes... a piece of "carbon" foil did the job

Breaktru · « **Reply #325 on:** February 26, 2013, 06:32:28 PM »

Quote from: utak3r on February 26, 2013, 05:40:28 PM

Just to hide some holes... a piece of "carbon" foil did the job

Looks good w/ the carbon

I have some sheet of it but have yet to use it.

kilo68 · « **Reply #326 on:** March 05, 2013, 04:56:14 PM »

howdie folks, i a newb here and kind of new to the vaping word. that said, i'd really like to build one of these mods. i looked through the thread but didnt see an actual parts list and where parts can be sourced. i'm sorry if it was posted and i missed it, any direction would be awesome, i want to try and get one of these going soon

pnguin · « **Reply #327 on:** March 06, 2013, 01:25:06 AM »

Welcome to the board. Check the 2nd post in this topic, parts and values are in the diagram. You can get the regulator free as a sample from TI.com. The rest of the parts can be gotten from Jameco, digikey or mouser. The 510 atty connector is at madvapes.com. Good luck with your project.

kilo68 · « **Reply #328 on:** March 06, 2013, 01:36:37 AM »

Quote from: pnguin on March 06, 2013, 01:25:06 AM

Welcome to the board. Check the 2nd post in this topic, parts and values are in the diagram. You can get the regulator free as a sample from TI.com. The rest of the parts can be gotten from Jameco, digikey or mouser. The 510 atty connector is at madvapes.com. Good luck with your project.

thank you sir!

kilo68 · « **Reply #329 on:** March 06, 2013, 02:06:12 AM »

well for some reason i can not change the quantity on the sample order to anything other than "0" on the TI website. maybe they are out or not giving samples any longer, even though it says in stock?

pnguin · « **Reply #330 on:** March 06, 2013, 04:54:01 AM »

If you just registered it may take a while for your account to be confirmed. I have found that if I go six months between sample orders they will allow me another 5. Give it another try tomorrow. I can't remember if they send a confirmation e mail or not.

Breaktru · « **Reply #331 on:** March 06, 2013, 09:36:36 AM »

Quote from: kilo68 on March 05, 2013, 04:56:14 PM

howdie folks, i a newb here and kind of new to the vaping word. that said, i'd really like to build one of these mods. i looked through the thread but didnt see an actual parts list and where parts can be sourced. i'm sorry if it was posted and i missed it, any direction would be awesome, i want to try and get one of these going soon

Welcome to the forum @kilo.
Also take a look at the .44++ mini boost mod.
Consider the advantages with using an AW IC18500 and/or AW IMR18490

kilo68 · « **Reply #332 on:** March 06, 2013, 06:36:21 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on March 06, 2013, 09:36:36 AM

Welcome to the forum @kilo.
Also take a look at the .44++ mini boost mod.
Consider the advantages with using an AW IC18500 and/or AW IMR18490

thank you, now i am even more excited. still need to get passed ordering the samples. seems i still can not order anything? oh well light just try a local parts store.

Breaktru, where did you get the bullet case switches? or do you custom make those?

Breaktru · « **Reply #333 on:** March 06, 2013, 07:07:29 PM »

Quote from: kilo68 on March 06, 2013, 06:36:21 PM

thank you, now i am even more excited. still need to get passed ordering the samples. seems i still can not order anything? oh well light just try a local parts store.

Breaktru, where did you get the bullet case switches? or do you custom make those?

I cut the rims from a .44 bullet case, drilled and tapped the primer pocket to a 4/40 thread to fit the C&K 8551MZQE2

kilo68 · « **Reply #334 on:** March 06, 2013, 07:19:57 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on March 06, 2013, 07:07:29 PM

I cut the rims from a .44 bullet case, drilled and tapped the primer pocket to a 4/40 thread to fit the C&K 8551MZQE2

Do you sell the switches as an assembly?

I wish the forum had a Tapatalk account, using my phone is so difficult

Breaktru · « **Reply #335 on:** March 06, 2013, 07:38:57 PM »

Quote from: kilo68 on March 06, 2013, 07:19:57 PM

Do you sell the switches as an assembly?

I wish the forum had a Tapatalk account, using my phone is so difficult

Sorry Kilo but I do not.
Also sorry about the phone difficulties.

kilo68 · « **Reply #336 on:** March 06, 2013, 07:43:33 PM »

Maybe you should?? I have a DE 44 Magnum and would be the perfect tie in piece.

pnguin · « **Reply #337 on:** March 08, 2013, 12:52:59 AM »

Well I screwed up the first one. Checked out good before I started. I think too high a temp while soldering. I took Craig's and your advice and got a Hakko 888 soldering station, I love it. Tossed the old weller iron in the drawer, think I will get a blade tip for it and use it for cutting plastic. I will try another regulator tomorrow. Do you have a recommended temperature for soldering the 04050 regs?

FlameOut · « **Reply #338 on:** March 08, 2013, 06:41:51 AM »

Quote from: pnguin on March 08, 2013, 12:52:59 AM

Well I screwed up the first one. Checked out good before I started. I think too high a temp while soldering. I took Craig's and your advice and got a Hakko 888 soldering station, I love it. Tossed the old weller iron in the drawer, think I will get a blade tip for it and use it for cutting plastic. I will try another regulator tomorrow. Do you have a recommended temperature for soldering the 04050 regs?

I just looked over the datasheet and found this under:

ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM RATINGS(1)
Leaded temperature (H suffix) 5 seconds 260°C (2) - This would be the PTN04050CAH
Solder reflow temperature (S suffix) Surface temperature of module body or pins 235°C - This would be the PTN04050CAS
Solder reflow temperature (Z suffix)(3) Surface temperature of module body or pins 260°C(3) - This would be the PTN04050CAZ

(1) Stresses beyond those listed under absolute maximum ratings may cause permanent damage to the device. These are stress ratings
only, and functional operation of the device at these or any other conditions beyond those indicated under recommended operating
conditions is not implied. Exposure to absolute-maximum-rated conditions for extended periods may affect device reliability.
(2) This model is NOT compatible with surface-mount reflow solder process.
(3) Moisture Sensitivity Level (MSL) Rating Level-3-260C-168HR

Conversion: 260°C = 500°F and 235°C = 455°F

pnguin · « **Reply #339 on:** March 08, 2013, 08:00:11 AM »

Thanks for the info, FlameOut. I looked up the temp on the 40 watt Weller iron I was using...900 deg F. Way to much. I was quick but the high temp probably did it in. Now I can set the Hakko temp correctly. I always wear my ground strap and keep the regulators in their antistatic bags until I need them so that pretty much rules out ESD. Triple check the wiring, and use solder sparingly, test with a 1K load and use a 2.4 ohm atty. So it must be the heat. I think I will use 360 deg F, so far that temp works well with the 60/40 solder. Thanks again for the help.

cccsteel · « **Reply #340 on:** March 08, 2013, 08:43:21 AM »

Quote from: FlameOut on March 08, 2013, 06:41:51 AM

I just looked over the datasheet and found this under:

ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM RATINGS(1)

Nice find FlameOut. Now we know how not to damage the Informous module.

@pnguin, you are using good safety precautions.

kilo68 · « **Reply #341 on:** March 09, 2013, 01:55:26 PM »

Quote from: pnguin on March 06, 2013, 01:25:06 AM

Welcome to the board. Check the 2nd post in this topic, parts and values are in the diagram. You can get the regulator free as a sample from TI.com. The rest of the parts can be gotten from Jameco, digikey or mouser. The 510 atty connector is at madvapes.com. Good luck with your project.

would you happen to have a part number for the battery box? i havent been able to order any samples from TI yet so i guess i might just purchase one if possible. but i found the 510 connector, still havent found a switch. i am just used to a parts lists and dont want to purchase something that wont work or will short out cause issues. thanks guys

Breaktru · « **Reply #342 on:** March 09, 2013, 03:02:14 PM »

Quote from: kilo68 on March 09, 2013, 01:55:26 PM

would you happen to have a part number for the battery box? i havent been able to order any samples from TI yet so i guess i might just purchase one if possible. but i found the 510 connector, still havent found a switch. i am just used to a parts lists and dont want to purchase something that wont work or will short out cause issues. thanks guys

This thread is the .44 mini mod for use with a 14500 battery. The box is a AA battery box. cheapest AA batt box
However if you are to build a mod like the .44+ an 18350 battery is used. The .44++ uses an 18500/18490 battery. Both mods use a 9v battery box is used. Modifications are necessary. cheapest 9v batt box

kilo68 · « **Reply #343 on:** March 09, 2013, 03:10:47 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on March 09, 2013, 03:02:14 PM

This thread is the .44 mini mod for use with a 14500 battery. The box is a AA battery box. cheapest AA batt box
However if you are to build a mod like the .44+ an 18350 battery is used. The .44++ uses an 18500/18490 battery. Both mods use a 9v battery box is used. Modifications are necessary. cheapest 9v batt box

Tha k you kind sir. That is exactly what I needed. I'm going to try the ++ if I can ever order the circuit.

ChainVaper · « **Reply #344 on:** March 27, 2013, 08:46:11 AM »

Thanks for the links break

TuxAir · « **Reply #345 on:** June 06, 2013, 06:47:00 AM »

Just built another one using your circuit. This time using a 18650 Battery for longer life. It works but I do have one problem. It is stuck at 5VDC (No Load). The pot has no effect on output at all. I've been going over this thing for a few hours and cannot find the problem. It's the 3rd one I've built. Any suggestions as to why this one is stuck at 5 Volts?

Breaktru · « **Reply #346 on:** June 06, 2013, 07:15:39 AM »

Quote from: TuxAir on June 06, 2013, 06:47:00 AM

Just built another one using your circuit. This time using a 18650 Battery for longer life. It works but I do have one problem. It is stuck at 5VDC (No Load). The pot has no effect on output at all. I've been going over this thing for a few hours and cannot find the problem. It's the 3rd one I've built. Any suggestions as to why this one is stuck at 5 Volts?

If your wiring, parts and solder connections are good. I would bet that the converter is damaged.
Here are some tips to review: Damaged Board

TuxAir · « **Reply #347 on:** June 07, 2013, 03:51:07 AM »

Pin 3 on the board was not soldered in. There was no bias input on pin 3 but the circuit rang out fine.. Reattached carefully and all is well. Thanks!

Breaktru · « **Reply #348 on:** June 07, 2013, 07:54:43 AM »

Quote from: TuxAir on June 07, 2013, 03:51:07 AM

Pin 3 on the board was not soldered in. There was no bias input on pin 3 but the circuit rang out fine.. Reattached carefully and all is well. Thanks!

Good to hear it wasn't a bad board.

energeticrain · « **Reply #349 on:** July 12, 2013, 12:45:53 PM »

hi there, got most of the parts to make this mod just wondered what voltages are the caps you have used cheers....love this mod...