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I meant heat sink :pI asked because on italian forum they say that circuit fries if more than 12w are requiredThank you for the explaination btw
While you're in there, check the integrity of all you connections
Well, I rebuilt the whole thing from the ground up and it is working much better than before... I think some of my connections were a bit weak, and I'd also used longer runs of wire than in my previous build. I reorganised the internals to let me use less wire, and it's improved things greatly
If using a tactile and MOSFET to fire the atomizer, you can simply put a voltage detector inline. I've talked about that on the forum here a couple times. Though the part is small and hard to work with. Not a problem if you're not afraid to make little host PCB for it. There's other options for power modules that have an enable pin. The TI booster module does not have one.You can use any pot you want really. It's not a matter ratings since the currents are small.
Finally got my first 44 put together.straightforward 2xAA box, point to point soldered all of the components.My pot wasn't true enough, so I'm getting 4.0 to 6.2V, but that's juuuust fine by me. tastes like a freshly charged battery on every drag!Beats the pants off of my 2700mah ego-t board 3xAA box too!Best part? Got 3 more 4050's to play with!Now if that bottle of juice would stop stinking like rotting cologne...
Hey Visus,I still use my 4050 and 08100. They both satisfy my vaping needs. I don't vape high wattage.I mostly use my beta test version of the DNA 200 and rarely go over 10 watts. Seems like a waste using 10W on a 200W device
web designDC-DC converters create a lot of ripple and noise. The capacitor is needed to keep the supply voltage stable for the pot. Took me a while to figure out what you meant by "loesr", but now I see that's "low ESR". web hosting The best capacitor to use for that purpose is an MLCC cap. Use a 1uF. They are small, inexpensive, and have the lowest ESR of any general purpose capacitor.The capacitor needs to be connected as close as possible to the pot leads, both power and ground which are pins 8 and 4 on the pot in your drawing. You may or may not have a problem without one,domain registration but it's standard practice to add a .1 to 1uF cap at the power and ground pins for any chip that uses digital logic. Cell phone batteries are typically 1C.seo They are probably the most hazardous batteries you could use to power an atomizer except maybe those 3.2V CR2 Li-Ions, those are horrible too. They're not designed for the drain currents you would see with an atomizer. I've seen lots of people talk about using cell phone batteries and even actually attempt it.hosting If you use a flat LiPo cell, it should be at least 10C and must at least have short circuit protection. Just use an IMR cell. Those are the safest ones for our purposes.Digital inputs from tactile switches typically need to be "debounced". I don't know about that chip, it may have debouncing already built into the switch inputs, but that's normally something that needs to be considered.renoyadak Switch contacts make a lot of noise when opening and closing that digital inputs mistake for multiple switch activations. You usually have the option of debouncing in software or hardware with MCUs, but with that one, you can only hardware debounce.You can try it as wired in the diagram, but if the pot jumps around on you, that's what's causing it. Hardware debouncing is usually not a big deal, just a matter of two resistors and a capacitor, but since you are trying to minimize part count and it's already known to work without it, should be okay. Just bringing up the issue of switch debouncing as a matter of practice.
The datasheet for the AD5228 calls for a 1uF to 10uF Electrolytic or Tantalum capacitor. The MLCC cap it a MultiLayer Ceramic Cap. Would that be a problem?
