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Offline redwolfe

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My DNA20D Mod
« on: December 20, 2012, 01:28:36 AM »
With the upcoming release of the DNA20D, I've been preparing for its release and lately gathered many parts for the prototype of my mod. I have already purchased a few cels from Hobby King (the 2200 mAh 20C turnigy lipos) and am waiting for them to arrive. I have 6 of the 2200 mah cells coming and when I've used those I plan on going to 2 1000mah cells in parallel to make the mod slightly smaller. It only cuts off about 20mm from the total height of the mod but I want to use as little space as possible and still have a long battery life.  I have a DNA micro usb charger on hand and am waiting for the remaining parts. Now the big obstacle I am having is getting the enclosure made and because I enjoy making 3D models, I took the time to make one via 3DSMAX. I really like how it turned out. I have talked to a local machinist who is a good friend and vaper and he has told me that because I am making a custom case out of aluminum I would pay out the rear end. He did suggest using delrin for a protoype enclosure to make sure the measurements are correct because it will be much cheaper.  I have even thought about going the same route Craig did with his awesome Powerbloks and having a few cases made by means of Selective Laser Sintering but my search for a local place has come up with nil for the moment. I'll keep looking and hopefully find something soon.

Offline styl3r

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2012, 10:57:59 AM »
Can't wait to see the final product
good luck on finding somebody to manufacture the box for you,

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2012, 01:24:35 PM »
Can't wait to see the final product
good luck on finding somebody to manufacture the box for you,

Styl3®

Me 2. Can't wait

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2012, 03:56:24 PM »
Now the big obstacle I am having is getting the enclosure made and because I enjoy making 3D models, I took the time to make one via 3DSMAX. I really like how it turned out. I have talked to a local machinist who is a good friend and vaper and he has told me that because I am making a custom case out of aluminum I would pay out the rear end. He did suggest using delrin for a protoype enclosure to make sure the measurements are correct because it will be much cheaper.  I have even thought about going the same route Craig did with his awesome Powerbloks and having a few cases made by means of Selective Laser Sintering but my search for a local place has come up with nil for the moment. I'll keep looking and hopefully find something soon.

If you use SLS it will cost about $60 a pop if you order 10 enclosures using glass filled nylon.  It seems that a quantity of 10 gets the best price break, but that's a rather high number of units just for personal use.  The price per unit goes up with a lower quantity.  It's probably a couple hundred dollars for one unit. 

I use Solid Concepts.

CNC actually provides a much cleaner finish than SLS, though the material wont be as rigid unless it's done in metal.  You'll have to do some sanding with SLS and it has to be painted since the material is porous.  The up side is it's very strong and very light with good heat tolerance.

From what I've found, it seems that SLS is the cheapest rapid prototyping service.  It also provides the most functional, durable parts of all the additive methods.  The only way to get parts made cheaper is to pay $5k for a mold and pump out a couple thousand of them.


« Last Edit: December 20, 2012, 04:15:38 PM by CraigHB »

Offline styl3r

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2012, 04:28:38 PM »
You could, just for the prototype, make your own from ABS to make sure your dimensions are good before spending out money to have them fabricated.
I found this article
http://talkingelectronics.com/projects/Boxes/BJones-BoxArticle.html


Offline CraigHB

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2012, 04:48:55 PM »
But then it's ABS which is not particularly rigid, flexible, tolerant to temperature, or tolerant to solvents.  It's cheap though.  However, you can do the same thing with tougher sheet plastics like Plexiglass and Lexan.  Though none of them are as tough as GF nylon.

Offline styl3r

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2012, 04:52:25 PM »
Yeah something like that , you should be able to at least make a proto type just to make sure everything fits. I also found a link for home vanuum forming. But don't think you could form a thick enough substance...

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2012, 05:01:11 PM »
I don't know if you've used a 3D modeling progam, but the professional ones are good enough you really don't need to physically build the model to make sure everything fits.  You build the model in the program and it makes sure everthing fits for you.  That's kind of the whole point of the program, but also to ouput the plot files required for the tooling.

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #8 on: December 20, 2012, 05:28:39 PM »
Wow, thanks for all the advice on the enclosure. I will definitely take it all into consideration. I spent the last six hours modeling in 3dsmax and have come up with these renders. The 2000mah version is on the left and the 2200mah is on the right. I may just stick with the 2200mah version since its not as big as my original designs were. Its only 113mm x 40mm x 20mm. The 2000mah is 106mm x 40mm x 14mm.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2012, 06:51:12 PM »
Wow, thanks for all the advice on the enclosure. I will definitely take it all into consideration. I spent the last six hours modeling in 3dsmax and have come up with these renders. The 2000mah version is on the left and the 2200mah is on the right. I may just stick with the 2200mah version since its not as big as my original designs were. Its only 113mm x 40mm x 20mm. The 2000mah is 106mm x 40mm x 14mm.

Looking good wolfe. Owwwwww.
I wish I had 3D cad expertize like you guys. Makes me drool..... guess I have to stick with the off the shelf enclosures

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #10 on: December 20, 2012, 07:23:07 PM »
Looking great there redwolfe.  Personally, I would take a look at a model that stacks two of the 1000mAh cells for a shorter fatter version.  It's probably just me, but I've acquired an aversion to mods that carry some length.  I'd much rather go thicker than longer.

@Dave, the hardest part is getting a hold of some software capable of outputting STL files without costing an arm and a leg.  I happen to have a buddy that turned me on to a student license for Solidworks which costs about $6k for a professional license, IIRC.  I hadn't used a 3D modeling program up until that point.  Took me probably about 20 hours of working with the tutorials before I could actually design an enclosure.  Probably half that for you since you're used to working with complex software.  Not like you have to take a course in college to learn how to do this stuff.

Google Sketch-Up is a fairly full featured 3D modeling program that can be used for free.  It can output STL files with a plug-in which is a critical requirement.  However, it does lack the precision of a professional program and does not work with assemblies which is important when doing fit checks.  Though it would be possible to design a part and output the manufacturing file with it.

An afterthought; if you plan to go with SLS, one thing that can mess you up is the 1mm mininimum feature requirment.  It's strict.  The resolution with SLS is not as good as CNC.  I had to do my enclosure walls at 2mm to allow for an L mating.  I initially did a 1.6mm enclosure wall which was not acceptable because of a 0.8mm tounge.  I had to redo all my drawings.

« Last Edit: December 20, 2012, 08:04:36 PM by CraigHB »

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #11 on: December 20, 2012, 08:29:12 PM »
Since I have already ordered the 2200 cells I plan on using those first. Then I will go to the 2 1000mah parallel version. I must have redesigned the enclosure 6 or 7 times before the current models. Both are as small as I think I am  going to get them for now. I also did a drawing in Illustrator and printed it for reference. It's pretty small considering how big the render looks.

My 3d modeling skills come about 50/50 from classes and self taught. It comes in handy to kill time for fun or for something like this. Also learning a complex program takes time and patience. There have been several occasions when I have become frustrated with what I was doing and had to walk away.

@Craig
Edit: After replying with the above, I noticed you said you had to redo your drawings with 2mm walls. I have designed my drawings with that wall thickness to begin with so I should not have a problem if I decide to go with SLS.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2012, 08:41:50 PM by redwolfe »

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #12 on: December 20, 2012, 08:46:08 PM »
You're covered then.  Just wanted to mention that because it got me bad when I went to production.  I was delayed for a time redoing all the drawings.  Was pretty discouraged with that since I had put quite a bit of time into the set I thought was ready.

Offline styl3r

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #13 on: December 21, 2012, 07:42:01 AM »
Since I have already ordered the 2200 cells I plan on using those first. Then I will go to the 2 1000mah parallel version. I must have redesigned the enclosure 6 or 7 times before the current models. Both are as small as I think I am  going to get them for now. I also did a drawing in Illustrator and printed it for reference. It's pretty small considering how big the render looks.

My 3d modeling skills come about 50/50 from classes and self taught. It comes in handy to kill time for fun or for something like this. Also learning a complex program takes time and patience. There have been several occasions when I have become frustrated with what I was doing and had to walk away.

@Craig
Edit: After replying with the above, I noticed you said you had to redo your drawings with 2mm walls. I have designed my drawings with that wall thickness to begin with so I should not have a problem if I decide to go with SLS.
[/quote

I like what you said about the getting frustrated and walking away. The walking away trick deffinatly works, just walk away for an hour or so and then 9 times out of 10 you can resolve the problem. Where if you stayed trying to resolve it 3 hours later you are no clearer to solving the porblem.
Best tip ever "walk away" :thumbsup:

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #14 on: December 21, 2012, 04:37:20 PM »
Well last night while I was double checking my enclosure render I found a few errors I couldn't fix in the state it was. I ended up redoing it from scratch. Hopefully it will be the last time. :) Anyway I ordered a DNA20 chip as well so I have that to look forward to next week. Can't wait for it to get here. I will try to mod it into something until my lipos arrive. Now to get the enclosure made.

Pics below. The forum isn't letting me post attachments right now for some reason.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6trrnd9i2u2nqlf/dna20_01.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6trrnd9i2u2nqlf/dna20_02.jpg
« Last Edit: December 21, 2012, 05:49:30 PM by Breaktru »

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #15 on: December 21, 2012, 05:14:37 PM »
I submitted my renders to Solid Concepts and it would cost around $160 each for the enclosure pieces. That kind of cash I don't have right now so I need to find another option.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #16 on: December 21, 2012, 05:46:09 PM »
I submitted my renders to Solid Concepts and it would cost around $160 each for the enclosure pieces. That kind of cash I don't have right now so I need to find another option.

That's too bad wolfe. Fantastic modeling. Wish I could reach out and grab one they look so good. But I would cut the length in half. I'm a compact kinda guy... LOL

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #17 on: December 21, 2012, 05:51:38 PM »
The forum isn't letting me post attachments right now for some reason.

I tried to fix the link but there is something wrong with it. Also it is a secure hyper-link (https) that I believe is not compatible with the forum coding.

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #18 on: December 21, 2012, 06:54:40 PM »
I tried to fix the link but there is something wrong with it. Also it is a secure hyper-link (https) that I believe is not compatible with the forum coding.

I was having problem pos actual pictures. I kept getting a 409 error and the site saying that my request was processed but my browser couldn't compile the data. I had never seen something like that before.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #19 on: December 21, 2012, 08:01:45 PM »
I was having problem pos actual pictures. I kept getting a 409 error and the site saying that my request was processed but my browser couldn't compile the data. I had never seen something like that before.

The links that you posted in Reply #14 have stopped working. They worked the first time.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #20 on: December 21, 2012, 08:26:36 PM »
I submitted my renders to Solid Concepts and it would cost around $160 each for the enclosure pieces. That kind of cash I don't have right now so I need to find another option.

CNC is cheaper for onesy twosies I think.  Did you try that option?

There's just no way to get things custom made cheap.  If you order a larger quantity you can get the unit cost down, but that won't help if you don't plan to build a number of them.

Another option is build your own 3D printer, but it's not cheap either.  It could pay for itself if you make enough parts with it.  The CNC type would be best for what you want to do.  The additive type are also popular, but they don't have very good resolution among other drawbacks.  There's a whole community of hobbyists into that kind of thing, lots of info on the net.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #21 on: December 21, 2012, 09:16:16 PM »
Lets try this. The forum is still giving me grief for adding attachments.

Here are the newest renders for my enclosure.

[Photos Deleted]

Below is the error message I get when I try to add attachments.

[Photo Deleted]
« Last Edit: March 11, 2013, 07:27:49 PM by Breaktru »

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #22 on: December 21, 2012, 09:40:43 PM »
CNC is cheaper for onesy twosies I think.  Did you try that option?

There's just no way to get things custom made cheap.  If you order a larger quantity you can get the unit cost down, but that won't help if you don't plan to build a number of them.

Another option is build your own 3D printer, but it's not cheap either.  It could pay for itself if you make enough parts with it.  The CNC type would be best for what you want to do.  The additive type are also popular, but they don't have very good resolution among other drawbacks.  There's a whole community of hobbyists into that kind of thing, lots of info on the net.

I submitted a quote request for the CNC option. I do plan on building quite a few as gifts for close friends. I may have to get a few of your stainless connectors from you since they look the best out there in my opnion. Too bad they aren't available at a vendor.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #23 on: December 22, 2012, 09:32:36 AM »
yeah if you could find somebody with a 3d printer...wow thats the way to go
Craig, i just watched a 3d printer making a working wrench in one hit with all moving parts.............. Pretty Star trek like their replicator.... i am blown away. Now

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #24 on: December 22, 2012, 09:45:34 AM »
yeah if you could find somebody with a 3d printer...wow thats the way to go
Craig, i just watched a 3d printer making a working wrench in one hit with all moving parts.............. Pretty Star trek like their replicator.... i am blown away. Now

Yeah, it is amazing technology. Like the Jetson's

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #25 on: December 22, 2012, 09:57:47 AM »
I now know what i want for Christmas ..........  :laughing2:

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #26 on: December 22, 2012, 12:51:27 PM »
Well luckily i do know someone with a 3d printer. I could ask him to take a look at it for me and see what he says.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #27 on: December 22, 2012, 05:07:24 PM »
 :wallbash:  OK I figured out why the price of the prototype enclosure was so high. I submitted the two pieces as seperate files and had 'inside/out' finish selected. I resubmitted the pieces as one STL file and selected no finish and standard dry blast. It brought the price for 1 down to $123! MUCH more reasonable!! 6 for $70! Now to get them made!  :rockin smiley:  :thumbsup:

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #28 on: December 22, 2012, 06:15:53 PM »
Nice one .... happy days

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #29 on: December 22, 2012, 06:25:19 PM »
They won't take two separate parts as one file.  The online quote system will take it, but you'll get a call from an engineer saying they can't produce it.  Shouldn't matter much though.  The cost goes by unit quantity and the amount of material used per unit.  Two files that contain one part each should cost about the same for the both of them as two parts in a single file.  If you really want to use a single file you could probably connect the parts with breakaway leaders to make them producable as one part, but I wouldn't do that myself.

For lowest cost, select nylon 12 GF under material, None (Unfinished) under Hand Finish, and Wet/Dry Blast under Surface Treatment.  You will need to sand and paint the parts to finish them.  The upside is you will be amazed how strong and light they are.  The stuff is a fiber composite and it has all its advantages.  The solvent tolerance is really good too.  My parts have held up well to juice, alcohol, mineral spirits, and acetone with no degredation in hardness.

I had a lot of trouble with paint.  Most paints don't cut it, juice dissolves them over time.  I found a hard lacquer that holds up well to juice and finger grease.  You might want to test your paint against juice exposure first.  I assumed an enamel would work well on the first build and then had to strip and refinish after I realized it was no good.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #30 on: December 22, 2012, 07:52:30 PM »
They won't take two separate parts as one file.  The online quote system will take it, but you'll get a call from an engineer saying they can't produce it.  Shouldn't matter much though.  The cost goes by unit quantity and the amount of material used per unit.  Two files that contain one part each should cost about the same for the both of them as two parts in a single file.  If you really want to use a single file you could probably connect the parts with breakaway leaders to make them producable as one part, but I wouldn't do that myself.

For lowest cost, select nylon 12 GF under material, None (Unfinished) under Hand Finish, and Wet/Dry Blast under Surface Treatment.  You will need to sand and paint the parts to finish them.  The upside is you will be amazed how strong and light they are.  The stuff is a fiber composite and it has all its advantages.  The solvent tolerance is really good too.  My parts have held up well to juice, alcohol, mineral spirits, and acetone with no degredation in hardness.

I had a lot of trouble with paint.  Most paints don't cut it, juice dissolves them over time.  I found a hard lacquer that holds up well to juice and finger grease.  You might want to test your paint against juice exposure first.  I assumed an enamel would work well on the first build and then had to strip and refinish after I realized it was no good.


I tried again and submitted the separate files and they came out to $95 a piece. The single file with both parts came to $124. Just wondering why you wouldn't want to connect the parts with breakaway leaders since that seems to be the better price with them in the same file.

I don't mind sanding and painting the parts myself since I intended to do that anyway. I have Dupli Color automotive spray paint
and clear coat I will be using to paint them. 

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #31 on: December 23, 2012, 03:23:44 PM »
Hmm, bigger difference than I thought.  Well, you'll have some stumps you'll have to sand down if the parts are connected.  The stuff is pretty hard and takes quite a bit of elbow grease to remove a lot of material.  I wouldn't want to deal with it.

Don't know why your order has such a higher unit cost than mine did, it was $60 a set for my parts in quantity of 10 versus almost $200 a set for yours in quantity of 6, yeah?  That doesn't sound right, unless the price has gone up drastically since 3 months ago.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #32 on: December 23, 2012, 05:09:55 PM »
Hmm, bigger difference than I thought.  Well, you'll have some stumps you'll have to sand down if the parts are connected.  The stuff is pretty hard and takes quite a bit of elbow grease to remove a lot of material.  I wouldn't want to deal with it.

Don't know why your order has such a higher unit cost than mine did, it was $60 a set for my parts in quantity of 10 versus almost $200 a set for yours in quantity of 6, yeah?  That doesn't sound right, unless the price has gone up drastically since 3 months ago.

The $200 price tag is for only 1 set. If i do 10 of each it will be about $80 a set. I would rather have them connected and sand the stumps down for $124 for 1 set. I have the tools to do it so it will be a bit more (or a lot more) effort required for me. Plus i just realized last night i have to model the parts yet again anyway. So that should be fun. Practice makes perfect though right?

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #33 on: December 23, 2012, 05:17:40 PM »
Well, revising your drawings is pretty much par for the course.  You'll be bummed if you get the parts and something is not right.  Always makes me nervous when I actually submit drawings for production.  It's like, "hope there aren't any mistakes."  Seems you can never proof things to your own satisfaction.

Offline styl3r

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #34 on: December 24, 2012, 08:37:22 AM »
Going back to the 3d printer just been looking at different home type 3d printers and came across this the solidoodle and really reasonably priced starting @ $499 see here
http://store.solidoodle.com/

You could get that back in no time !!!!!

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #35 on: December 24, 2012, 11:36:31 AM »
Going back to the 3d printer just been looking at different home type 3d printers and came across this the solidoodle and really reasonably priced starting @ $499 see here
http://store.solidoodle.com/

You could get that back in no time !!!!!

That would be great for prototyping but since it uses ABS filament that would not hold up very well in the long run.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #36 on: December 24, 2012, 12:33:57 PM »
Z axis resolution is typically .3mm on that, too coarse for something like a small mod enclosure.  It might be possible to get the resolution you need out of it, but maybe not.  Also, it's limited to ABS filament which is not a particularly tough plastic.  The enclosure for an e-cig mod needs to be able to endure a lot of abuse like heat, solvent exposure, impact, and abrasion.  The price is right though.  Most other 3D printers either in kit form or ready to use start over $1000.  You'd have to try it, but you'd be paying your nickel and taking your chances.

CNC printers are better since the resolution is typically .1mm and you can use Delrin stock.  It's a good plastic, fairly tough, good solvent tolerance, good heat tolerance, but it's not as hard and rigid as the composites used for SLS.  If money is no object, there's even a carbon fiber composite you can use with SLS that has amazingly high flexural modulus (rigidity), higher than aluminum.  You can make stuff with aluminum stock using a CNC printer as well.  You can also make fairly complex two sided circuit boards with one.

Offline styl3r

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #37 on: December 24, 2012, 01:34:27 PM »
Still think it would be good for prototyping. And once the model is perfect you could then go to production. There is also a guy, in the UK, that rents them out for £89 per week http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Makerbot-Replicator-Twin-Extruder-1-week-rental-Reprap-3d-printer-/271118725503?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f1fef717f

I don't know if there might be something like that where you are.

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #38 on: December 26, 2012, 12:28:42 PM »
Just got a call from Solid Concepts about the quote I submitted. They thought I had some trouble with the system since on their end it showed I submitted 2 identical quotes. I checked my account and it showed only the one I ordered. Not sure what that problem was. He also asked if there was a certain time frame I needed the enclosure in and I said no the normal time is fine. I can't wait to get it.

Checking the tracking on my Lipo cells shows they were in Singapore on the 19th. Hope I get them very soon.

Now to get my DNA20 chip into a temporary box today so I can test it. :)

Offline Pantera

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #39 on: December 26, 2012, 12:49:01 PM »
 :beer-toast: Sounds like things are moving along nicely. Won't be long now. Makes sure you do some thorough testing of the board before installing it into a box. Just saying

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #40 on: December 26, 2012, 02:25:11 PM »
:beer-toast: Sounds like things are moving along nicely. Won't be long now. Makes sure you do some thorough testing of the board before installing it into a box. Just saying

I planned on doing that well before it went in the box. It may not even go in a box until I get my lipos and prototype enclosure. So until then it will be kept out for testing.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #41 on: December 26, 2012, 04:13:38 PM »
Be careful about resoldering wires.  If you're not using a good variable temperature iron, you can easily fry the board resoldering wires onto it.  I'd use solid wire.  It's a lot tougher than stranded.  As long as it doesn't need to be flexed repeatedly, it doesn't fray and break easily at the solder joint the way stranded wire does.  It looks like the display is rather delicate.  I'd handle it with a lot of care.

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #42 on: December 27, 2012, 01:34:24 AM »
Right now the only iron I have on hand is a standard 30 watt one. My Dad just bought a really nice 100 watt iron today but I won't use that one as it doesn't have variable control on it.  There was no way I would use stranded wire and though it would work it looks like it could break pretty easily if you weren't very careful.

True the display is somewhat delicate. I'm thinking of a way to protect it. I might sandwich it between 2 pieces of plexi-glass and secure it with some clear vinyl tape. 

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #43 on: December 27, 2012, 11:59:42 PM »
Finally got my DNA20 chip bread boarded and testing it out. That was the longest 3 hrs ever!  :laughing2: Vapes really well even though it's not in a box. I'm pretty freaking proud of myself right now.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2012, 12:05:09 AM by redwolfe »

Offline Jerseybob

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #44 on: December 28, 2012, 08:26:26 AM »
Very nice RW  :beer-toast:

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #45 on: December 28, 2012, 11:15:45 AM »
 :rockin smiley: Woo-hoo! The Li-po cells I ordered almost a month ago from Hobby King just arrived!  ;cheers;

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #46 on: December 28, 2012, 11:26:27 AM »
:rockin smiley: Woo-hoo! The Li-po cells I ordered almost a month ago from Hobby King just arrived!  ;cheers;

Nice - got mine yesterday

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #47 on: January 01, 2013, 03:01:46 AM »
Today I spent several hours in Fritzing working on the PCB for my mod and I got it finished with a little help from Synchro (thanks buddy) and wanted to know what everyone else here thought about it. If there are any errors at all or improvements I can make please feel free to point them out. This is a 2-layer board. Yes I know there is a bit of empty space there but the current design is how I had it in my head earlier today when I thought of it.

Since I have already ordered through-hole PTC's for the mod I will use those first and then redesign it to use SMD style fuses.

Offline redwolfe

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #48 on: January 01, 2013, 04:09:16 AM »
After doing a little further reading I found some of my own errors.  :facepalm: I removed right angles in the traces and changed them to 45 degree as best I could. Also added the ground layer to the negative end of the battery (hopefully that's right). This is fun stuff.

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Re: My DNA20D Mod
« Reply #49 on: January 06, 2013, 08:55:03 PM »
Well, the first one is almost finished! Got the PTC fuse, lipo cell, microUSB charger, and up/down buttons wired on. Now I need to get it in a nice enclosure. Next time I won't do it like this, I just wanted to use it lol.

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