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Nice touch w/ the stationary post. I find it a lot easier to get a parallel tack weld when I secure one end in my "Helping Hands Soldering Aid" which I show using in the last video. Less hand shaking.Just my 2 cents. You may want to rethink the screw terminal for something different. It may most likely nick the wire and weaken it.
soldering the caps makes no difference that i can tell....hmm, still seems to be the same drop.baps, can you try and see if youre experiencing the same voltage drop with the flash boards and a few caps?
I might know that 9v is no bueno That's what happens when you buy 9v battery tabs
I have this Spark-O-Matic thing down pretty good w/ just an AA battery and 340uF capacitance. I've achieved 98% success on the first weld.We are welding thin wire to thin wire. I don't really see a need to go any further in circuit modifications. Aesthetics is good. I like what bap did on his design and Warlion did a bang up job on his build and video.I have these parts coming for a DC-DC converter welder but why when this is working so well for me.
like I said, maybe I was over thinking it. Maybe my ideas would work better as the tab welder you mentioned earlier.
today i get another kodak camera and this one the cap said is 330vs 80uf but is so hard to find here 330v caps
I can NOT get any consistent welds from this. Tried adding one then 2 100uf 50v caps but then the charge maxes out @ 75 volts.
I can NOT get any consistent welds from this. Tried adding one then 2 100uf 50v caps but then the charge maxes out @ 75 volts. Still get a decent weld from that but it's still inconsistent. Gonna have to go hunting for some larger caps I guess.
Because you are using 50V capacitors, you are lucky to get 75V form that. get 330V caps
Kinda about what I figured. Guess the voltages averaged out between the caps (one on board is unmarked and I can't get a clean read from it). Think I'm going to sacrifice one of the odd flash assemblies and use the cap off that to see if it will stabilize.
There's some good videos of exploding capacitors on youtube. Doesn't take all that much over the rating for that to happen. Here's one;http://www.eevblog.com/2009/11/04/eevblog-42-exploding-capacitors-in-high-speed/
Here she be....well the first one anyway
Nice!I've popped more than my share of them over the past few years. Nothing quite as spectacular as the last one on there though. Only takes a small slip with a probe and POP!
ok this mineusing a kodak camera with a single cap of 80ufbest welding using 32awg nickel and 32awg kanthal best voltage was 120vthe voltage drop very quick using a kodak camera with dual cap one 80uf and other 120ufbest welding was at 75v - 50v 32awg nickel -32awg kanthalthe voltage drop slowi dont think i will add a third cap this work perfect im happy with only 200uf
How are you making out w/ your welding?
Found this Photo-Flash Capacitor for a buck at: AllElectronicsAlso found the Flash board circuits for a buck at: FLASH ASSEMBLY
Since no one has mentioned it there is probably a reason, but I'm going to throw it out and let the more informed educate me.Is there a reason why the camera flash circuits couldn't be used with a larger capacity slower discharge capacitor and limit the voltage being applied to 35v/etc to the capacitor?The LM2577's are cheap enough, but the cameras can be free and I have a few to experiment with.
Yes you can. Example:I made great welds with a 1000uF cap at 36v and with a 2200uF at 26v.Does it matter what we use and at what volts? The job is done and the welds look similar.If you want to buy parts than go ahead and do so... or go the cheapest route. Use what you have.P.S.I don't find the need to clean off the wires w/ alcohol any more. Just a tight and short connection will do it.
I have 1000uF 50v caps and I'm worried about applying to much voltage. Any suggestions to limiting that cheaply and easily?If I understand correctly the LM2577 welders use a higher capacity capacitor that release the discharge slower and at a lower voltage. Basically creating a longer duration weld. I'm just trying to mimic that with the camera flash.
The LM2577 does not discharge slower. A short across the cap is a short across the cap no matter what you are using to charge it with.I used 50v caps and only went as high as 40v. 27v and 36v worked great. As far as limiting the max. I'd have to look into it.
No matter what device that you are using to make welds, the important thing to do is to make sure the wire is TIGHTLY held in the clips.Use quality clips with a strong spring tension. Keep the exposed wire short. And also important is your KNACK of touching the over-lapped wires together.I've seen crappy welds with the Tsaf when Diver was first using it. He eventually perfected his hand skill.
Hi Breaktru, I'm a moron at this stuff...but I'm good at following directions and I know how to solder. But I've been piecing info together from here and the other forum. Over there, someone mentioned the use of a Zener Diode to sort of limit voltage. Could something like that be used with the camera boards and 50 V caps to safely limit the voltage?