The Spark-O-Matic - Wire Arc Welding for coil making

[utak3r]

I'm using silver-plated copper wire most of the times. You think it should get a higher voltage spark?

Now I have to find some good circuit and caps...

[Ariel_MX]

This is our prototype:





Configured charging time on screen & ray icon to indicate it is charged, joystick type button to up & down the charging time and scroll betweent charging time memories, charge button (you just push it one time and it automatically charge for the configured time) and terminal posts.

Internal 18650 battery, with integrated charger.

Final versión will show: Charging time, current memory, battery remaining charge, and status (ray icon when is charged):



On / Off switch:



USB Charging port with indicator leds:



Sticker:


We have to find a nice case.

We have to find a place to buy those post terminals, like the ones garrydibley show in the Vapour Trails video.

We are waiting for new battery charger chips.

[Breaktru]

This is our prototype:

Configured charging time on screen & ray icon to indicate it is charged, joystick type button to up & down the charging time and scroll betweent charging time memories, charge button (you just push it one time and it automatically charge for the configured time) and terminal posts.

Internal 18650 battery, with integrated charger.

Final versión will show: Charging time, current memory, battery remaining charge, and status (ray icon when is charged):

We have to find a nice case.

We have to find a place to buy those post terminals, like the ones garrydibley show in the Vapour Trails video.

We are waiting for new battery charger chips.

Fantastic Ariel. I love the fact that you used an MCU.
Charge time, what are you controlling with it?
You took it several steps beyond with this.

[Ariel_MX]

Fantastic Ariel. I love the fact that you used an MCU.
Charge time, what are you controlling with it?
You took it several steps beyond with this.

Instead setting the desired voltage, we opted to do it by setting time, so the more charging time = more voltage will be charged, it has Charging Time memories, so if you found out certain gauge configuration works at X charging time, you can store that time in one of the memories, so next time you can just select that memory.

[Breaktru]

Gotcha. It's like holding the charge button for X amount of time. Only way cooler way of doing it. Fantástico

[MidnighToker]

This is our prototype:

VERY nice setup.  Chalk up yet another reason to get moving on MCU programming....the wait for my stuff to come in is going to be a lot more painful than waiting for standard vapemail

[Pantera]

This is our prototype:

  cool. Me likes 

[geothee]

This is our prototype:

Hey Mon. Gud one  Doan ya luv it

[werz99]

This looks like the highend version of a spark-o-matic;-) Which microcontroller do you use?


I want to thank for all the information in this project. I habe realised my first working sparkomatic and it works fine with 4 x 80µF and 75 volts for 0,25mm silvercoated copper wire and kanthal 0,2mm.

Regards
werz99

[Breaktru]

This looks like the highend version of a spark-o-matic;-) Which microcontroller do you use?


I want to thank for all the information in this project. I habe realised my first working sparkomatic and it works fine with 4 x 80µF and 75 volts for 0,25mm silvercoated copper wire and kanthal 0,2mm.

Regards
werz99

Congrats werz. Nice going.

[Ariel_MX]

Update:

Start screen that shows scrolling "Wire Welder" text, nickname and serial number.



Main screen showing the charging time, current memory (M-- is the default one), it will load the last used charging time, shows current battery voltage and charge status (thunder icon = currently charged).

By pressing the black button left or right will scroll between the 15 available memories, up or down will increase or decrease the charging time.



Charging process, it shows the "Charging" text while charging:



Charged (shows a thunder icon to indicate it is currently charged):



Memory menu: in this menu you can save a charging time on the selected memory, the menu is accessed by pressing the firing button for 4 seconds, time is saved in the selected memory by pressing the firing button 1 time:



Li-Ion 18650 battery:



It has an integrated battery charger and a battery termal sensor.

Now it shows a "Low Battery" text and current battery voltage when battery is around 3.5v to prevent battery over discharge.


Some testing:


So far we have tried:
Kanthal 32AWG, Nichorme: 34AWG, 32AWG and 0.17mm with no resistance 32AWG nickel wire and pure silver wire (I have to check the gauge of this one because we do not remember).



I want to specially thank to seth83 who is the master electronic mind and engineering of this project.

[Poppy26]

Update:

Start screen that shows scrolling "Wire Welder" text, nickname and serial number.

Main screen showing the charging time, current memory (M-- is the default one), it will load the last used charging time, shows current battery voltage and charge status (thunder icon = currently charged).

By pressing the black button left or right will scroll between the 15 available memories, up or down will increase or decrease the charging time.

Charging process, it shows the "Charging" text while charging:

Charged (shows a thunder icon to indicate it is currently charged):

Memory menu: in this menu you can save a charging time on the selected memory, the menu is accessed by pressing the firing button for 4 seconds, time is saved in the selected memory by pressing the firing button 1 time:

Li-Ion 18650 battery:

It has an integrated battery charger and a battery thermal sensor.

Now it shows a "Low Battery" text and current battery voltage when battery is around 3.5v to prevent battery over discharge.


I want to specially thank to seth83 who is the master electronic mind and engineering of this project.

Congrats Ariel and seth83. Looks cool

So.. from what I get out of this is that you are controlling the charge time. It's like the same as holding your finger on the charge button for X amount of seconds.
I would imagine that monitoring the charge voltage would be more accurate than setting a charge time.
Being that perhaps charging a  cap may not be an exact consistent science each and every time,
As charging a cap to a determined voltage would be.

[Breaktru]

Congrats Ariel and seth83. Looks cool

So.. from what I get out of this is that you are controlling the charge time. It's like the same as holding your finger on the charge button for X amount of seconds.
I would imagine that monitoring the charge voltage would be more accurate than setting a charge time.
Being that perhaps charging a  cap may not be an exact consistent science each and every time,
As charging a cap to a determined voltage would be.

poppy26,
I think I understand your point w/ voltage control,  Possibly...
With that said, charge cycle should be cut when a specific voltage is reached instead of a time factor. At least that's how I would do it.

[yogi]

Is that a Piano tuner? 

[Ariel_MX]

Congrats Ariel and seth83. Looks cool

So.. from what I get out of this is that you are controlling the charge time. It's like the same as holding your finger on the charge button for X amount of seconds.
I would imagine that monitoring the charge voltage would be more accurate than setting a charge time.
Being that perhaps charging a  cap may not be an exact consistent science each and every time,
As charging a cap to a determined voltage would be.

Thanks Poppy26,

The final voltage after X time is pretty consistent / steady, for example, if you configure it to charge for 3 seconds, the resultant voltage after charging for that time will be 28v, if you discharge it and, repeat the test, the final voltage will be 28v, there could be little variances, but not considerable ones.

Anyway, we have added some features:

It now displays (when it is charged), instead the thunder icon, the final charged voltage (you can see how it increases while charging).

We have now the option to select the desired charging voltage instead by doing it by time.

What we are trying to do is to have both options available via mode menu, so you can switch between charging by time or by setting the final desired voltage, we do not know if there will be enough space in the PIC to have both options, but we think it will be possible

I will talk to Del Boy (Vapor Wall) to open a interest list for this device, if there is enough interest (20 people) we will build them.

Price will be around $110.00 USD (shipping an PP fees included), we are not making any profit of it, maybe our profit will be to use the extra components to build 2 more, one for me and another for a reviewer (seth83 will own the prototype SN:000).

[Ariel_MX]

Is that a Piano tuner? 

It is an old and very simple CASIO Keyboard, a birthday gif my dad gave me like 25 years ago 

I always wanted to learn to play piano

But instead piano lessons, my dad inscribed me in "marimba" lessons, I didn't want to learn to play marimba, so I never learnt.

This is a marimba:

[Ariel_MX]

Some updates at Vapor Wall and list of interest.

http://www.vaporwall.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6460&p=91901#p91901

[vaporhead]

I've followed this thread from the beginning and I finally got around to building one. Thanks guys.
After much practice I have the welds really solid. They do not break apart when winding them.
I am using 32 gauge Kanthal A1 and a strand of bare wire like breaktru is doing.
I concluded that welding the tips work better than the overlap. What I found is that the first two attempts melt the tips (ends) of the wires forming a bead. The 3rd go at it makes an excellent and strong weld probably due to a larger surface area.

[Breaktru]

I've followed this thread from the beginning and I finally got around to building one. Thanks guys.
After much practice I have the welds really solid. They do not break apart when winding them.
I am using 32 gauge Kanthal A1 and a strand of bare wire like breaktru is doing.
I concluded that welding the tips work better than the overlap. What I found is that the first two attempts melt the tips (ends) of the wires forming a bead. The 3rd go at it makes an excellent and strong weld probably due to a larger surface area.

I also found that tacking the tip to tip makes a stronger weld that does NOT break no matter how hard you tug on it or how many times your bend it.
Lately I found the same thing happening. First couple of attempts causes the ends to bead which makes a wider surface to weld to. This is better than overlapping. Overlapping always led to the wire breaking before the weld.

[angah83]

Found this Photo-Flash Capacitor for a buck at: AllElectronics

Also found the Flash board circuits for a buck at: FLASH ASSEMBLY

hi Breaktru,

do you know how much caps value in uF those Flash Assembly have?

i'm about to buy both the flash assembly and extra caps as you mentioned above.

p/s: sorry for my bad english. i'm from malaysia.

 

[Breaktru]

hi Breaktru,

do you know how much caps value in uF those Flash Assembly have?

i'm about to buy both the flash assembly and extra caps as you mentioned above.

p/s: sorry for my bad english. i'm from malaysia.

 

I've opened a lot of cameras and the cap values vary. This is what I found in uF value: 80, 100, 120.
The link to the AllElectronics cap is a 270uF. If you parallel it to an 80uF that would work out to about what I recommend.
I don't know the value of the cap that is on the AllElectronics Flash Assembly board but what ever it is it should work fine w/ the extra 270uF.

[angah83]

I've opened a lot of cameras and the cap values vary. This is what I found in uF value: 80, 100, 120.
The link to the AllElectronics cap is a 270uF. If you parallel it to an 80uF that would work out to about what I recommend.
I don't know the value of the cap that is on the AllElectronics Flash Assembly board but what ever it is it should work fine w/ the extra 270uF.

Thank you for your prompt reply Breaktru. I'll have to wait about 2-4 weeks  before getting my hands dirty with this project. 

[angah83]

Breaktru..

I believe that you are using Allen Bradley 15K 2W resistor. Does the resistor W values matters in this build? Can I use 1/4w, 1/2w 1w, 3w etc.?

[Breaktru]

Breaktru..

I believe that you are using Allen Bradley 15K 2W resistor. Does the resistor W values matters in this build? Can I use 1/4w, 1/2w 1w, 3w etc.?

Current on discharge is so minute it is barely readable. Cranked up to 325v I measured 0.02uA so anything small in wattage will do.

[angah83]

just thinking of replacing one way on/off switch with SPDT 3 pins switch and add 1K resistor on the off pin side so that it will drain the caps when the switch is in off mode/state. is it plausible/safe?

Edited: Change from SPST to SPDT.

[Breaktru]

just thinking of replacing one way on/off switch with SPST 3 pins switch and add 1K resistor on the off pin side so that it will drain the caps when the switch is in off mode/state. is it plausible/safe?

The reason for the bleeder resistor is to bump down the voltage if you over shoot your targeted voltage. A push-button would be a better choice if you had to tap it down only a bit.
A 15K would be better for finer adjustment. A 1K would bleed it down faster.

[angah83]

The reason for the bleeder resistor is to bump down the voltage if you over shoot your targeted voltage. A push-button would be a better choice if you had to tap it down only a bit.
A 15K would be better for finer adjustment. A 1K would bleed it down faster.

I understand the concept. The 15K resistor will be there untouched. I'm just thinking of a way to automatically drain the caps whenever the circuit is not complete (off). so I can be sure that when I turn off Spark-O-Matic, the caps will no longer hold charges and I can touch the leads without zapping myself.

[Breaktru]

I understand the concept. The 15K resistor will be there untouched. I'm just thinking of a way to automatically drain the caps whenever the circuit is not complete (off). so I can be sure that when I turn off Spark-O-Matic, the caps will no longer hold charges and I can touch the leads without zapping myself.

Sounds like a good idea. Very cleaver

[angah83]

Sounds like a good idea. Very cleaver

thank you..   

i can say that we now have an added security features to those who forget to discharge/weld their nr to r wire after pressing those charging button. 

[tommygun]

thank you..   

i can say that we now have an added security features to those who forget to discharge/weld their nr to r wire after pressing those charging button. 

Excellent @angah83. Nice going. I'm surprised not one thought of that before 

[elzakivis]

I'm just thinking of a way to automatically drain the caps whenever the circuit is not complete (off). so I can be sure that when I turn off Spark-O-Matic, the caps will no longer hold charges and I can touch the leads without zapping myself.

Good one anga 

[helex]

introduce a “Spotty v1”, device for wire spot welding.

This is a working prototype and the final version will be finished within a few days.
We took a bit different approach when designing this device since we noticed some common difficulties in spot welding process.

First of all, this is Low Voltage welder, which deals with the problem of accidental electric shock. Voltage is regulated up to 37 Volts and wires can be freely touched by fingers without any fear.

Another common problem is accidental battery reversal. Since we use 9V battery, this problem is even easier to occur, so we integrated reverse polarity protection. If battery is put in reverse while device switch is ON, device will NOT produce white smoke, it will remain operational. I think everyone can agree that this is good feature, especial for novice users.

Of course, there is also output stage circuit protection, which is mandatory on this kind of devices (at least the ones of good quality). Short circuit on output terminals during the charge phase will not damage electronics part, LCD screen will just display zero value.

When working with such tiny things as very thin wires, you need a very good lighting (after certain age usually accompanied with glasses ) to achieve good quality welds. To come around this issue, we installed a guiding support in front of the Positive terminal post. You need only to protrude resistance wire 5 mm of the terminal, let it rest on support, and clamp it with terminal cap.
This will ensure the same welding conditions for every spot you make. Non resistance wire (NR) on the black terminal can be long as you see fit for easy handling (10 cm or even more).

After switching the device ON, LCD shows preset voltage up to the moment you press the charge button. Pressing the charge button will cause display to switch to another mode: it will show rising of charging voltage. The required welding voltage will depend on the thickness of the wire.
When desired voltage is achieved, release the charging button and proceed with welding.

Charging time is around 2 – 3 seconds.
We tested a various wires thickness and types, NiCr and kanthal against NR nickel and pure silver wire.

It is also possible to use Alligator Clip (Clips) to hold the wires (for people with extremely steady hands), but in that case you have to take great care when aligning the wires and to achieve a good electrical contact.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86c_Z-pgJVw

a few pictures:

[Squance]

Thank you breaktru for your Spark-o-matic thread. I finally got around to building one. I picked up a few spent camera's at my local pharmacy. I took out the caps on two and added them to a Kodak board making it 340uF like you suggested.
I got to tell you I'm ecstatic about my build. Had lots of fun zapping coil wires 
After some practice I got this coil wire down pretty good 
 

[banshee]

+1 yes thank you breaktru for the info here. It was easy to follow and I save some money making my own  and not having to buy one from copy cats selling them on other forums 

[theDom]

  Nothing like the satisfaction of making something yourself. Well done guys

[MidnighToker]

I really need to get off my ass on this one again.

Once I let the voltage stabilize I was getting what I thought were nice strong welds.  Still had the issue of them breaking when they were torqued while winding the actual coil though.....got frustrated and back-burnered it for a while.  It was really annoying the hell out of me getting these nice clean welds that I could sit there and yank on all day and they'd hold, but winding a coil....PFFFFT!  They'd usually wait until I was just about finished and was attaching the nickel leads to my atty and then snap on me. 

[Breaktru]

I really need to get off my ass on this one again.

Once I let the voltage stabilize I was getting what I thought were nice strong welds.  Still had the issue of them breaking when they were torqued while winding the actual coil though.....got frustrated and back-burnered it for a while.  It was really annoying the hell out of me getting these nice clean welds that I could sit there and yank on all day and they'd hold, but winding a coil....PFFFFT!  They'd usually wait until I was just about finished and was attaching the nickel leads to my atty and then snap on me. 

I had that happen a lot in the beginning. I lowered the voltage by only a few volts and had better luck.
I think the wire strength (softened) was weakened by the higher voltage because the wire would break before/after the weld.

[banshee]

I agree with the voltage setting. Use the lowest voltage that will make a successful weld. Takes some playing with but it's worth the time.

[theDom]

I agree with the voltage setting. Use the lowest voltage that will make a successful weld. Takes some playing with but it's worth the time.

I second that  been there, done that

[stimps403]

New to the forums. Just wanted to compliment everyone on the great work. Now to go see if I can make one of these bad boys without electrocuting myself.

[Breaktru]

New to the forums. Just wanted to compliment everyone on the great work. Now to go see if I can make one of these bad boys without electrocuting myself.

Welcome to the forum stimps and good luck with your build

[Mimms]

New to the forums. Just wanted to compliment everyone on the great work. Now to go see if I can make one of these bad boys without electrocuting myself.

Welcome @stimps403.
Just remember to remove the battery and short the cap together before handling the board. The capacitor can hold a charge for quite a long time. I've been zapped and I can tell you first hand, it's a nasty jolt 

[d_walk]

I picked up a couple of used cameras and found that the caps still held a charge even though I never turned on the camera.

[stimps403]

Thanks for the welcomes and the warnings.

Do most photo processing places give away used disposable cameras?

[Skorpios1027]

Thanks for the welcomes and the warnings.

Do most photo processing places give away used disposable cameras?

Depends on where you go (and who you talk to) I had a hard time finding a place to give me one. Most in my area recycle them.

[Breaktru]

Thanks for the welcomes and the warnings.

Do most photo processing places give away used disposable cameras?

Depends on the person behind the counter. The first time at a CVS pharmacy the person said no. I returned to the same CVS and was able to snag several from a different person. Also scored a bunch from Costco.

[stimps403]

Thanks. I'll have to go ask nicely.

[MidnighToker]

If anyone is still having trouble getting the cameras/caps hit me up in a PM and I'll be happy to send you some if you just cover the shipping.  There is no way that I will use all of the ones that I have now....and I can still probably hit up Walmart for more (their employees generally don't give a damn.....especially if you hit the ones in the shittier neighborhoods  )

-MT

[stimps403]

If anyone is still having trouble getting the cameras/caps hit me up in a PM and I'll be happy to send you some if you just cover the shipping.  There is no way that I will use all of the ones that I have now....and I can still probably hit up Walmart for more (their employees generally don't give a damn.....especially if you hit the ones in the shittier neighborhoods  )

-MT

That's a generous offer. If I don't have any luck, I'll definitely PM you. Thanks.

[nahoku]

Hello,
I'm new to this forum too and also wanted to thank everyone for their contribution to this thread... most of all to Breaktru for sharing and starting it up!