Author Topic: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit (Read 520638 times)

timesarerough · « **Reply #100 on:** January 26, 2014, 03:25:20 AM »

Quote from: CraigHB on December 23, 2013, 01:03:58 PM

I know since I've blown them up on the bench before. They explode like a firecracker. Nothing wakes you up quite like an exploding capacitor.

That's precisely WHERE I stopped attempting to make my own mod myself!

CraigHB · « **Reply #101 on:** January 26, 2014, 03:55:41 AM »

Hehe, hasn't stopped me.

I don't use polarized ones much anymore, at least for mods. The only time I use a polarized cap is if an MLCC cap can't do the job. Higher value MLCC caps have an ugly DC bias characterstic that often rejects them for higher voltage stuff. If it wasn't for that, they would be the perfect capacitor.

mamu · « **Reply #102 on:** January 26, 2014, 05:32:41 AM »

Quote from: CraigHB on January 26, 2014, 03:06:42 AM

...You want your Zener to have a voltage spec a little lower than the cutoff voltage since the logic will toggle low a small amount above zero volts. A 6V Zener should get you close, but there's wiggle room in the logic levels so it can vary depending on the regulator. It also depends on the resistor value since higher values can cause offsets due to leakage currents. You want a higher value resistor to minimize power loss, but if it's too high, it can cause an offset level above logic low.

The 5.6v zener I'm using with the Raptor does a great job and cuts off at 6v loaded. The problem is with the unbalanced discharge with the lead batt getting discharged more - so far down to 2.75v. That voltage is not a big deal for cylindrical cells, but it has me worried that if the lead cell is discharged even more I'd run into issues with it.

I'd like to keep both cells from going lower than 3v each, so a 6v zener will solve that. I don't mind a bit of a higher cutoff, especially with using the LG batts as I get loooooooong vape time with the 2500mAh before they run down.

As for the resistor, really can't use much of a higher value as the converter then won't shut off as you indicated. For the Raptor the datasheet recommends 7.5K and that's what I used.

For the OKR, I use 10K. I remember tinkering with that a few years back. CapeCAD had used a 100K for the OKR-T3 and no one at that time had set up the OKR-T6 using the enable pin. So I went with testing the 100K and slowly decremented that by 10K or so at a time til I got down to 10K and that's what it took to shut the converter off.

No resister on the enable pin the converter is always on always firing. Too high of a resister you get the same thing.

Jackson · « **Reply #103 on:** January 27, 2014, 01:52:31 PM »

Quote

CapeCAD had used a 100K for the OKR-T3 and no one at that time had set up the OKR-T6 using the enable pin.

Well not to overly knock CapeCad but in his first foray he kept insisting he had the 'E' version of the OKR. There were two versions listed by Murata. Unfortunately the one he claimed he was using wasn't available anywhere.

Quote

Remote On/Off Control (Note 5) [Standard version]
Positive Logic ON = +1.5 V. to +Vin max. or open pin
OFF = –0.3 to +0.4 V. max. or ground pin
Current 1 mA

Remote On/Off Control [“E” version]
Positive Logic ON = +2 V. to +Vin max.,
49Kohm pulldown to ground
OFF = open pin or –0.3 to +0.4 V. max.
Current 1 mA max..

My question, wouldn't it possible to use a trimmer for pulldown and simply tweak it, let's say using a constant 6.5V input (or what ever value folks want as a cutoff), till it shut down?

Here is Note 5.

Quote

The On/Off Control is normally controlled by a switch or open collector or open drain resistor. But it may also be driven with external logic or by applying appropriate external voltages which are referenced to Input Common.

mamu · « **Reply #104 on:** January 27, 2014, 03:55:25 PM »

well - helloooooo WillyB.

I don't know why you'd doubt CapeCAD, but I believe he said he had gotten the E version from a rep or something along those lines.

If you want to tinker with a trimmer to get an exact resistor value that will shut off the converter at a specific input voltage while still preventing the converter from auto-firing, let us know your results.

CraigHB · « **Reply #105 on:** January 29, 2014, 05:12:02 AM »

Hehe, WillyB, I seem to recall that user name from years past.

You could use a trimmer to do essentially the same things as the Zener-resistor combo. However, there are advantages to the Zener-resistor combo over a simple voltage divider. Like mamu said, you can always try it and see how it works. I should explain why a Zener is better, but it's late here and I need to get off the forum about now. Maybe later.

basementcat · « **Reply #106 on:** January 30, 2014, 05:21:32 PM »

I've built two of these now and both are outputting 6-7.4 volts? I've checked thoroughly. My wiring is fine. What might be wrong? Thanx.

Breaktru · « **Reply #107 on:** January 30, 2014, 06:48:38 PM »

Quote from: basementcat on January 30, 2014, 05:21:32 PM

I've built two of these now and both are outputting 6-7.4 volts? I've checked thoroughly. My wiring is fine. What might be wrong? Thanx.

What value pot and fixed resistor did you use?

basementcat · « **Reply #108 on:** January 30, 2014, 07:01:08 PM »

220 fixed 200 pot

Breaktru · « **Reply #109 on:** January 30, 2014, 08:16:08 PM »

Could it be wired wrong or maybe the parts are not 220 and 200 ohms?
Maybe we can help by seeing a close up

basementcat · « **Reply #110 on:** January 30, 2014, 08:53:44 PM »

Would connecting the 220 ohm resistor to the middle leg be the problem? Should it be on one of the outside legs?

mamu · « **Reply #111 on:** January 30, 2014, 09:16:47 PM »

The middle leg of the trimmer should be wired to ground. The resister is wired to one of the outer legs - need to check which leg turns clockwise and which one will turn the voltage counterclockwise. You want to use the leg that turns the voltage from low to high (clockwise).

Either cut off the unused leg, or tie it to ground.

Visus · « **Reply #112 on:** January 30, 2014, 10:04:22 PM »

hurry man get that did
valentines is around the corner im not gay but could use an okr mod..
like in 1st grade candy for everyone..

basementcat · « **Reply #113 on:** January 30, 2014, 10:10:41 PM »

Cool. A simple flip of the pot and I'm golden. Got one with a voltage display and one without.

mamu · « **Reply #114 on:** January 30, 2014, 10:31:06 PM »

Great news!

Yeah - with the way you had wired it you were only getting 0 - 200 ohms (6v - 7v range), instead of 220 - 420 ohms (3.3v - 6v range). The lower the ohms the higher the voltage.

basementcat · « **Reply #115 on:** January 30, 2014, 11:21:26 PM »

Ok now I'm seriously confused... I flipped it around and same deal. Then I tried another pot with the opposite leg and same thing. I'm seriously not understanding what's wrong.

mamu · « **Reply #116 on:** January 30, 2014, 11:24:08 PM »

I thought you had it fixed?

basementcat · « **Reply #117 on:** January 31, 2014, 12:05:20 AM »

No I never got it fixed. I just assumed that was the answer. Now that I've fiddled with it more nothing seems to change it. No matter where I place the pot or the resistor. I tried just about every combination just to see. I'm so confused. I'm out over $100 in parts total and very worried I won't even get wither working.

mamu · « **Reply #118 on:** January 31, 2014, 12:31:31 AM »

It's hard to tell exactly how the trimmer is wired.

For just the trimmer wiring:
pin 5 > resister > one outer leg of the trimmer

pin 3 > middle leg of trimmer

basementcat · « **Reply #119 on:** January 31, 2014, 12:40:29 AM »

Yeah that's how I have it set up. Pin 5 is the one with the resistor. Then That red wire is jumper ed from the center of the pot to pin 3.

basementcat · « **Reply #120 on:** January 31, 2014, 12:55:56 AM »

What's really weird is I've tried this same thing on both mods I built and they both do the exact same thing.

mamu · « **Reply #121 on:** January 31, 2014, 01:49:10 AM »

It sounds like only the resister is wired in for you to be getting a 6v-7v range only.

If you've got the trimmer wired correctly, like breaktru said, double check to make sure you have a 200 ohm trimmer.

Double check that the trimmer is reading 0 to 200 ohms by metering it or double check the resister + trimmer is reading 220-420 ohms by metering it.

Those thumbwheel trimmers break easily.

oh... and you might try creating a solder bridge on the circuit board to make sure all pins along a line are connected.

basementcat · « **Reply #122 on:** January 31, 2014, 02:20:14 AM »

I've done continuity tests. They're all connected. I'll check it tomorow for resistance. I know the pots are 200 ohm as they're marked. If the pot was dead though then why would it still change the value? If it's broke would it still vari the voltage at all? Also I've noticed it starts at 6. Then about halfway through the full turn it goes up to 7.4 and stays at that even if you turn it all the way.

Visus · « **Reply #123 on:** January 31, 2014, 02:45:52 AM »

He's using strip board and needs to cut the strip out.

It all makes sense now he has wires touching on there somewhere.

Show it flipped as well where you pinned out. That chip is uber easy to build with, it is super simple and not many reasons why it wont work right.. So it has to be wires touching on the chip even..

basementcat · « **Reply #124 on:** January 31, 2014, 02:57:02 AM »

I'll get more pics tomorow but nothing is crossed or touching. The bottom is quite clean. Yes it is a 5 row interconnect board. I also built another on a different type of interconnect board. Same issue. I've gone over it carefully. I've clipped pin 1. So what's you're seeing there is pins 2-5. Then one open row that I've given to the middle pin of the 200 ohm pot. I then jumpered from that row with the middle pin of the pot to pin 3 as diagrammed. This was a dammed clean professional build before I tore it all apart. It's still very well done. My soldering skills are fine. There's nothing crossed. The other unit is doing the exact same and nothing crossed there either. So this is why I'm confused. It may very well be bad pots. Not sure why they would still vari the voltage though if there toast.

Visus · « **Reply #125 on:** January 31, 2014, 03:05:57 AM »

Really easy to check pots on your meter. It may be bad chips even.
But two, you are unlucky if so and I must rub on my belly now so I win SB bet.

I reversed all pins on a 08100 build, the third one I built I did it upside down I luckily realized before clipping pin 1..

mamu · « **Reply #126 on:** January 31, 2014, 03:50:51 AM »

If you have a voltage range of 7.4v - 6v, there is an ohm range of 174 - 220.

For 6v - 3.3v range you should have an ohm range of 220 - 420.

So something is off with either the resister or the trimmer or both.

I didn't mean to check continuity, but to read the ohm range of the trimmer. Set the multimeter on ohms - put one probe on the center leg of the trimmer and one probe on the outer leg and read the ohms. Then turn the trimmer's dial and check the ohms again. What range are you getting from the trimmer? You should be getting 0 - 200 ohms for the range.

Now meter the ohms for the resister. Does it read 220 ohms?

You can also disconnect the trimmer, and check the voltage - with just a 220 ohm resister you should have a fixed voltage of 6v. If no resister and no trimmer, you should get a fixed voltage of 0.591v.

If you've checked the wiring and verified that the wiring is correct, you can narrow the problem down by troubleshooting the resister and the trimmer.

Other than that, you may have a bad board. But you said both your mods are doing the same thing. So it's either the wiring, the resister you've chosen, or the trimmer you've chosen.

Breaktru · « **Reply #127 on:** January 31, 2014, 06:54:23 AM »

If that is PCB with the tracers, it looks like it is not wired correctly. Like mamu said, only the resistor is in the circuit.
Look at the PCB board I show for the PTR08100. The wiring is the same. Just don't add the caps.

basementcat · « **Reply #128 on:** January 31, 2014, 12:54:15 PM »

Thanx guys. No mamu I am gonna do that. I know what you meant but you also said make sure they're connected. The continuity test shows of they're connected. I know how to measure the resistance. I should have stated this isn't my first mod at all. Been modding for a few years. I also work on and modify my own guitar amps. So i know about testing it all. I just haven't yet. I just saw that one trace needs to be cut. That's going to be where my whole problem is I bet. I didn't cut the trace where the resistor is. Otherwise mine looks exactly like that one you posted breaktru. I'll try that today and I bet it fixes It all. It's allowing that resistor to be partially skipped. Makes sense now. I'll report back once I try.

Visus · « **Reply #129 on:** January 31, 2014, 03:00:41 PM »

Quote from: basementcat on January 31, 2014, 12:54:15 PM

Thanx guys. No mamu I am gonna do that. I know what you meant but you also said make sure they're connected. The continuity test shows of they're connected. I know how to measure the resistance. I should have stated this isn't my first mod at all. Been modding for a few years. I also work on and modify my own guitar amps. So i know about testing it all. I just haven't yet. I just saw that one trace needs to be cut. That's going to be where my whole problem is I bet. I didn't cut the trace where the resistor is. Otherwise mine looks exactly like that one you posted breaktru. I'll try that today and I bet it fixes It all. It's allowing that resistor to be partially skipped. Makes sense now. I'll report back once I try.

Told ya I was genius if thats it, if not, I still am genuine..

mamu · « **Reply #130 on:** January 31, 2014, 03:11:07 PM »

LOL Visus.

Let us know, basementcat, how it goes.

Iamthebadass · « **Reply #131 on:** February 08, 2014, 02:11:40 AM »

I have a quick question that is probably super noob...

When using a slide switch as power off, what are the specs on it if I am planning on pulling 10A?

All the switches I have are <1A. Am I missing something?

What slide switch should I use as an off switch?

basementcat · « **Reply #132 on:** February 08, 2014, 02:28:44 AM »

Thanx so much for all the help. Got them both working perfect now.

Breaktru · « **Reply #133 on:** February 08, 2014, 07:58:50 AM »

Quote from: Iamthebadass on February 08, 2014, 02:11:40 AM

I have a quick question that is probably super noob...

When using a slide switch as power off, what are the specs on it if I am planning on pulling 10A?

All the switches I have are <1A. Am I missing something?

What slide switch should I use as an off switch?

See attached spec image below. Note that you are using an input of 8.4v max so a switch rated a 3A @ 125v would be more than ample. Input amps are less than output amps on a buck converter. Max output is 10A and max input is 4.53A.
Mini Slide Switch

wreck · « **Reply #134 on:** February 09, 2014, 02:53:47 PM »

Evening all

My first post on here, so apologies if it's a bit of a stupid one...

I've built a couple of DNA20 mods so far, and have ordered parts to have a go at making a compact twin 18350 mod using the schematics from this thread. It's my first go at a stepdown VV mod, and from my research so far it's going to be a lot more complex than using a DNA board

My question is... if I want to incorporate a volt display into this circuit, where do I wire it?

Mandro · « **Reply #135 on:** February 09, 2014, 03:32:19 PM »

Hi wreck, it's good to see you over here.
I haven't used this chip yet but I think that the voltage display will be wired the same as the ptr 08100.
If your using the 2 wire display like the ones that stealthvape sell you wire the red to your chip output that goes to the atty and the black to ground.

wreck · « **Reply #136 on:** February 09, 2014, 03:55:46 PM »

Well hello there Mandro

I've been lurking on here long enough abusing the resources, I thought I should get stuck in

Thanks for that. I've noticed that stealthvape sell the two wired ones they list as being 1s voltmeters, and they also do one they list as 1s-6s which has 7 legs? What's the difference between the two?

Mandro · « **Reply #137 on:** February 09, 2014, 04:13:20 PM »

I haven't used the 1s-6s version, but the site says that you can read up to six different batteries by attaching them separately to each of the 1-6 posts.
The 1s-6s version looks a bit big, I've been getting my displays off eBay, they do a smaller version but they take a while to get here.
I'm still abusing this sites resources lol

wreck · « **Reply #138 on:** February 09, 2014, 04:19:26 PM »

Nice one, cheers Mandro

I'll give one of the 1s displays a try

Iamthebadass · « **Reply #139 on:** February 09, 2014, 09:09:06 PM »

If I were doing a build with the PB switch inline with power and pin 2, could I still use a Zener diode from pin 1-3? Or would that not work?

I have not used sneer diodes before, but low voltage cutoff sounds like a good idea...

mamu · « **Reply #140 on:** February 09, 2014, 09:25:57 PM »

Quote from: Iamthebadass on February 09, 2014, 09:09:06 PM

If I were doing a build with the PB switch inline with power and pin 2, could I still use a Zener diode from pin 1-3? Or would that not work?

I have not used sneer diodes before, but low voltage cutoff sounds like a good idea...

A zener diode is on pin 1 only, not across pins 1 and 3.

I've not got around to testing the OKR-T10 yet and seeing if the 10K resister across pins 1 and 3 is ok for the T10 as it was for the T6. I've been told that a 5k is what the T10 needs, but have not verified that yet.

Iamthebadass · « **Reply #141 on:** February 09, 2014, 09:31:27 PM »

So a Zener would go from the switch (that is going in to pin 2) to pin 1?

And with a 5k resistor from 1-3 to stop the okr from auto firing yes?

katoptrizo · « **Reply #142 on:** February 18, 2014, 11:27:58 AM »

Quote from: Iamthebadass on February 09, 2014, 09:31:27 PM

So a Zener would go from the switch (that is going in to pin 2) to pin 1?

And with a 5k resistor from 1-3 to stop the okr from auto firing yes?

If your pushbutton is between battery+ and pin 2 my understanding is that there is no auto-firing so therefore no need for the resistor across pins 1 and 3. This is because the circuit is open when the switch is not depressed.

Additionally, according to my understanding, you cannot use the diode as a low voltage protection when not using the remote pin (pin 1) as there is no control voltage on pin 2, which is your +vIN.

Someone had better double check me, since this is my first post and I'm still learning as well.

JonGio · « **Reply #143 on:** February 25, 2014, 02:10:39 PM »

Hey guys. Been on EcF form a while then joined Mamu's forum and heard about this forum. I'm hardly on EcF anymore anyway. I own Mist Vapoe, LLC and I make custom wooden mods. I use DNA chips so this is a little dif. I get the caps before the switch but what resettable fuse would you use. I have a bunch on the way but all I have now is small fuses that will not reset. I don't care if I blow them but where is a good place to start as far as amps.

Breaktru · « **Reply #144 on:** February 25, 2014, 05:18:15 PM »

Quote from: JonGio on February 25, 2014, 02:10:39 PM

Hey guys. Been on EcF form a while then joined Mamu's forum and heard about this forum. I'm hardly on EcF anymore anyway. I own Mist Vapoe, LLC and I make custom wooden mods. I use DNA chips so this is a little dif. I get the caps before the switch but what resettable fuse would you use. I have a bunch on the way but all I have now is small fuses that will not reset. I don't care if I blow them but where is a good place to start as far as amps.

Hi JonGio and welcome to the forum. Nice of you to drop by.

We've had some discussion about it in this topic as well as the "Wiring a PTC" topic.

For the OKR-T/10 use a 10A. Two 5A fuses in parallel to half the PTC resistance and double the Amp rating.
For the OKR-T/6 use Two 3A fuses in parallel.

Visus · « **Reply #145 on:** February 25, 2014, 05:45:16 PM »

Mamu has a forum? wow I had no idea...

Hi new guy, this is a great tinkering site as well as some serious income can be made.. Break even has payroll software, ejuice calculator, that guy is a saint and his last name Giordano, I believe he is part of the pizza mafia family who have owned and fed our city deep dish stuffed for many years now lol...

JonGio · « **Reply #146 on:** February 25, 2014, 08:31:47 PM »

yea we have the same last name. No relation though.

JonGio · « **Reply #147 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:30:19 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on February 25, 2014, 05:18:15 PM

Hi JonGio and welcome to the forum. Nice of you to drop by.

We've had some discussion about it in this topic as well as the "Wiring a PTC" topic.

For the OKR-T/10 use a 10A. Two 5A fuses in parallel to half the PTC resistance and double the Amp rating.
For the OKR-T/6 use Two 3A fuses in parallel.

Thanks a lot. Is the thread called wiring a ptc

Breaktru · « **Reply #148 on:** February 26, 2014, 06:26:20 AM »

Quote from: JonGio on February 25, 2014, 10:30:19 PM

Thanks a lot. Is the thread called wiring a ptc

Actually cuz it's called Wiring PTC Fuses

mamu · « **Reply #149 on:** March 02, 2014, 02:28:20 AM »

Question for you, breaktru - in the OP diagram, you have a PTC fuse wired on Vin (this is also the way I wired the Raptor) - if the batts are put in backwards, are they protected from meltdown?

For the Raptor, the batts are not protected if put in backwards.