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Sorry I'm just now getting the time to read and process all this wonderfull info. Thanks again Craig this info will prove to be very usefull when talking to these guys that are swearing by their panasonics 10 amps. Lol. I've been using vtc5's in mine and getting 2 full days out of them before the Zener shuts it down. Again thanks for helping a noob understand better.
There is some good info there, but you really have to fire up the brain filter to browse the posts there. I used to visit that forum, but got tired of people battling what I posted there with bad info. Not to be arrogant and imply that I never post anything incorrect, It happens sometimes, but I really try to make sure I post information that is accurate.
Hmm, that sounds like double talk to me. Voltage is voltage when it comes to safe discharge levels. It doesn't matter if the battery has a 30A drain limit or a 5A drain limit. If they're using some kind of sketchy method in detecting when the battery has been discharged then it's their bad engineering. With a proper detection circuit it should not be necessary to require a particular brand of battery with a particular drain limit to guarantee a safe discharge level.In any case, it's not a concern. The only batteries that are unsafe to discharge as high as 3V are the LiPo flat cells and that mod uses 18650s. All 18650s have a minimum safe discharge voltage at most 2.7V. The Panasonics are even lower at 2.5 Volts.
I have a question mostly For Mamu but anyone can answer this one. I saw a reference to the Dena how to. Is this a video, and if so where can I find it. I have looked everywhere I know to find videos on how to do these mods and I have only found a few on youtube. I am a visual learner. If I can watch it be done it is a big help for me. Can anyone give me some direction on where to go to see these videos.ThanksMick
Hey all just want to say this community is much nicer than others out there on other social media sites. You guys are always nice and courteous. Waiting for the last of my parts to come in and you guys have definitely been a source of happy for new modders. So all I think I need left is my okr board to arrive and then my question is do I absolutely need capacitors or can I skip them being my soldering is pretty bad. What do you guys think about the automotive stuff that is like cold soldering? Just nervous about messing up a nice board? Hints suggestions any help is awesomely appreciated.
Hey MAMU is there a diagram of your latest working okr-t10 build with all parts, with numbers, needed to make it from scratch with all the features you would incorporate into yours? Like reverse pol prot, low volt cutoff, screen with 3 way switch to read atty and battery? Or does anyone have something like that with a detailed wiring diagram and all parts needed with part numbers, or at least enough info for someone who doesnt really know the subtle differences between parts and brands and stuff? Thanks you all!!
What do you guys think about the automotive stuff that is like cold soldering? Just nervous about messing up a nice board? Hints suggestions any help is awesomely appreciated.
Did ya read page 6? It has everything posted you just asked, like three times its posted on page 6..
Where is there a diagram of Mamu's build with all those features, and all parts needed with part numbers? The only part numbers I saw was someones screenshot of an order but the next post was pointing out a bunch of errors on it. Link me that diagram you see on page 6 because I couldnt find it, thanks!!
I've been doing some more testing with the OKR-T10.The 1K ohm pull-down resister is causing a major concern with the current drain. The 5.6v zener is kicking in to cut off the OKR from firing at 6v under load, but the batts if left in the mod after the cutoff continue to drain and with the 1K ohm resister drain at a faster rate. The series batts drained down to 5v. I've re-breadboarded the setup and replaced the 1K ohm resister with a 4.7K ohm resister and so far good to go. With my previous setup I couldn't do higher than 2K without getting auto-firing with the zener inline. Now I'm thinking it was the funky breadboard I was using because now with the new breadboard a higher resistance is doing fine.I've updated the wiring guide to reflect this.
does it matter if the resistors are 1/2 or an 1/8? and if no capacitors are being used then i can wire straight to the okr? confused
How can I add charging capabilities to this mod? Something along the lines of a USB port
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,543.0.htmlcheck this link to breaks diagram you can not charge both while in 8.4 volt but this allows you to switch the mod off and charge each one individual via usb
If anyone is here from the Las Vegas area, is there a better store than radio shack to pick up caps and resistors? A brick and mortar style place.
I'm having trouble finding a lipo pack, well I'm not sure if the one I found is correct. Can you please please point me in the right direction.
Can I use two 18650 single battery holders and bridge them together. Or am I better off pulling the clips out from an old remote control? Having issues waiting for my keystone and I want to get started with this! Any ideas or help would be awesome. Thank you guys so much for the inspiration
Just thought id step in and say hello, if this thread is still going ill be on it quite a bit, just got mess load of electronics to build some boxes for some local stores, i did a carbon fiber enclosure with a dual 18350 setup and for some reason people went bananas over the enclosure being made from carbon fiber. And mamu thank you so much for providing these amazing schematics. im gong to go ahead and have to order the rest of the electronics needed to make a box with your schematics, ill probably end up putting the first one with a screen in a hammond aluminum enclosure and then if i think it will sell i will make a new mold to make a little bit bigger carbon enclosure
Good news is that, like the fire switch, with the master kill switch tied to on/off control you don't need a rated DPST on/off slide switch. Without having to have a rated slide switch you should find these readily available and in smaller sizes.
Welcome to the forum CM. Please don't post about selling mods. This is a DIY forum for personal mods.
I'm not understanding how the switch doesn't need to be rated for the vin max current. I get that the slide switch isn't being switched under full current load, only 1ma to the remote pin. But when switched on and then fired the vin current would be going through the switch. Just hoping you could provide some clarity, thanks.
oh wait lol... I think I got what I did wrong. I was only looking at one part of the switch - the Vin-on/off control side.Right - there is current going across the switch from batt + to Vin.So, it does need a rated slide switch unless there's a different way to wire this.