Author Topic: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit (Read 503672 times)

JUICYOHMS · « **Reply #400 on:** June 12, 2014, 02:26:58 AM »

Hello Guys,

Which is the better pull down resistor to use, and what differences are there with either if any?

I only have a 4.7K ohm on hand, and I noticed some of the build sheets having a 1K ohm?

Also Am I right in understanding that caps are not needed with the T10? And what is the pros/cons of using them?

I have 22uf on hand. Mouser Part# C3225X5R1C226K250AA...Will this be sufficient if I decide to use them?

Cheers-

mamu · « **Reply #401 on:** June 12, 2014, 03:52:23 AM »

Quote from: JUICYOHMS on June 12, 2014, 02:26:58 AM

Hello Guys,

Which is the better pull down resistor to use, and what differences are there with either if any?

I only have a 4.7K ohm on hand, and I noticed some of the build sheets having a 1K ohm?

Also Am I right in understanding that caps are not needed with the T10? And what is the pros/cons of using them?

I have 22uf on hand. Mouser Part# C3225X5R1C226K250AA...Will this be sufficient if I decide to use them?

Cheers-

1K draws more idle current than the 4.7K, other than that either one does the job, which is to keep the converter from auto-firing when not pressing the fire switch.

Caps are optional. Really not needed for the output. An input cap adds a bit of a buffer and stability, especially when input voltage is on the low side. I use 22uF input for the OKR. Use at your option as the converter works fine without them.

JUICYOHMS · « **Reply #402 on:** June 12, 2014, 05:31:26 AM »

Thanks mamu...

CraigHB · « **Reply #403 on:** June 12, 2014, 02:13:40 PM »

You may have to consider power consumption when using pull up or pull down resistors under 4.7K. For example, if you're using a 1k pull down with an 8V supply, that's 8mA and 64mW. 8mA can be too high for some tactile switches and 64mW can exceed the power limit for small surface mount resistors. Not that you would necessarily run into those limitations, just as an example.

JUICYOHMS · « **Reply #404 on:** June 12, 2014, 04:11:16 PM »

Thanks for the extra info CraigHB...That Helps me to understand this better.

Cheers-
Ju-C

david4500 · « **Reply #405 on:** June 13, 2014, 07:25:28 AM »

Can the master switch be moved to the gate of the mosfet and would a pull down/up resistor be needed?

rc3po · « **Reply #406 on:** June 19, 2014, 10:07:04 PM »

I really enjoyed reading & learning from this thread - thanks to Break, Craig, Mamu, and all of yall!

I'm going to build my own Mod now. Hopefully I'll be finished with it next month some time. I'll be sure to post a bunch of pictures. Thanks everybody!!

miskol · « **Reply #407 on:** June 23, 2014, 05:59:11 AM »

Hi guys,

i think there's a mistake with the circuit, the fuse is not used based on the current connection.

the batteries is connected with the fuses, then the Master Switch should be connected with the other end of the fuses, along with the 220 ohm resistor, correct?

sorry if i'm wrong.

Quote from: mamu on April 12, 2014, 01:54:16 AM

mamu · « **Reply #408 on:** June 23, 2014, 07:25:33 AM »

oops... corrected. I revised that guide the other day based on requests to clarify what ground is and where it goes.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention, miskol!

miskol · « **Reply #409 on:** June 23, 2014, 11:53:59 AM »

no problem mamu, thanks for your confirmation

nosmo ke · « **Reply #410 on:** June 24, 2014, 07:26:36 AM »

I want my coils to heat up more quickly. The idea is to hit them hard for so many mS, then drop the power back to normal (6-8W say) so my custards don't burn.

My thought is to put a timed NC relay across the 200R pot. The relay opens at a variable time after the fire button is pressed. Very simple.

My question is whether the T/10 is stable enough to cope with this step change of trim ~~resistance~~ impedance on the fly?

(I'd give it a try right now but am in the midst of moving house.)

Neon711 · « **Reply #411 on:** June 24, 2014, 05:05:45 PM »

thanks the schm helped me build my first t10

Visus · « **Reply #412 on:** June 24, 2014, 11:08:37 PM »

Quote from: nosmo ke on June 24, 2014, 07:26:36 AM

I want my coils to heat up more quickly. The idea is to hit them hard for so many mS, then drop the power back to normal (6-8W say) so my custards don't burn.

My thought is to put a timed NC relay across the 200R pot. The relay opens at a variable time after the fire button is pressed. Very simple.

My question is whether the T/10 is stable enough to cope with this step change of trim ~~resistance~~ impedance on the fly?

(I'd give it a try right now but am in the midst of moving house.)

I love this idea. The pipeline pro does that type of ramping if you want it to. Really cool for delivering a mixture of delicate flavor profiles like you say a custard..

gno3545 · « **Reply #413 on:** June 25, 2014, 12:00:40 AM »

Are these schematics the same if I were to to use it as a pass-through instead of batteries?

mamu · « **Reply #414 on:** June 25, 2014, 05:29:23 AM »

Quote from: gno3545 on June 25, 2014, 12:00:40 AM

Are these schematics the same if I were to to use it as a pass-through instead of batteries?

Yes, but omit the zener and the P-FET as they are not needed and replace the batts with the DC connector.

gno3545 · « **Reply #415 on:** June 25, 2014, 05:35:15 AM »

thanks mamu

Neon711 · « **Reply #416 on:** June 26, 2014, 08:39:10 PM »

is the okr t10 pinout the same as the 10a nano raptor???

Jashe123 · « **Reply #417 on:** June 26, 2014, 09:22:53 PM »

Data sheet shows it's the same as the okr

Neon711 · « **Reply #418 on:** June 26, 2014, 09:36:42 PM »

Thanks. good to see another Marylander.

nosmo ke · « **Reply #419 on:** June 27, 2014, 04:47:53 AM »

Quote from: Visus on June 24, 2014, 11:08:37 PM

I love this idea. The pipeline pro does that type of ramping if you want it to. Really cool for delivering a mixture of delicate flavor profiles like you say a custard..

I've been asking around and I can't find anyone who's done this - which surprises me as it's simple and cheap. Temperature "profiling" (RVV, RVW) seems to get good reviews in general. (Not sure about pipeline pro - must read up on it.) Obviously my idea is not so fancy as digital profiling but I think it may improve the vape experience. I shall give it a go in the winter.

Neon711 · « **Reply #420 on:** June 29, 2014, 04:00:38 PM »

ok so i have lost my bag of ceramic caps. Would a 22uF electrolytic cap be ok to use for an OKR-T10? Thanks for all the great info here. My brain has swelled im sure.

CraigHB · « **Reply #421 on:** June 30, 2014, 07:54:53 PM »

Ceramics perform a lot better for lower voltage stuff, but yes, you can use an electrolytic if you want. Though when you look in the data sheet, you'll find they recommend a smaller ceramic in parallel with an electrolytic. Easier just to to use a higher value ceramic. In any case additional caps are optional, you don't have to have them.

zotek · « **Reply #422 on:** July 02, 2014, 02:11:34 AM »

is their any simple guide please? i dont wanna use FUSE, reverse polarity, battery V check, can someone upload one for me please i just wanna make it simple for my personal use.

thank you.

Breaktru · « **Reply #423 on:** July 02, 2014, 04:49:36 AM »

Quote from: zotek on July 02, 2014, 02:11:34 AM

is their any simple guide please? i dont wanna use FUSE, reverse polarity, battery V check, can someone upload one for me please i just wanna make it simple for my personal use.

thank you.

See O.P.

Diasas · « **Reply #424 on:** July 04, 2014, 11:17:39 PM »

I have been reading all of the post here and fixing to start my first OKR mod. I was wondering instead of PTC fuses could you use a regular fuse in place. I am trying to find out why use one over the other. If I am wrong in thinking this please let me know.

FlameOut · « **Reply #425 on:** July 05, 2014, 09:11:02 AM »

Quote from: Diasas on July 04, 2014, 11:17:39 PM

I have been reading all of the post here and fixing to start my first OKR mod. I was wondering instead of PTC fuses could you use a regular fuse in place. I am trying to find out why use one over the other. If I am wrong in thinking this please let me know.

Sure you can use a regular fuse but in the event of a problem the fuse would have to be replaced. A PTC fuse is a Resetable Fuse.

CraigHB · « **Reply #426 on:** July 05, 2014, 04:28:44 PM »

Probably a blade fuse like you see used in automotive stuff would work well. You can get inline sockets for them. In that case it would be easy to change, but it's not nearly as convenient and then you have to spend a dollar or something every time you blow a fuse. However, it's pretty rare I actually get an atomizer short. Though when it has occurred, it usually happens a few times before I resolve the issue, could end up replacing a handful of fuses. If you compare the hassle factor (do nothing versus buy and replace fuses) there's really no reason to avoid using a PTC resetable fuse.

kurrptsenate · « **Reply #427 on:** July 07, 2014, 11:15:27 AM »

Let's say I get the bare-bones project box up and running, but then want to add fuses, the mosfet, the digital voltage display after the fact

How hard would something like that be? I imagine you'd have to desolder some things, but couldn't you patch in some others, or is that just shoddy work?

CraigHB · « **Reply #428 on:** July 08, 2014, 06:31:23 PM »

Just about any amount of rework is possible, but why not just build it the way you want the first time. If it's a matter of waiting for parts, then wait for parts. We all have to do that.

Welcome to the forum BTW

Ray450R · « **Reply #429 on:** July 08, 2014, 11:48:00 PM »

Can someone give me a part number from digikey on 10uF capacitors for a OKR-T10 Build. Thanks

blkbd · « **Reply #430 on:** July 09, 2014, 01:37:00 AM »

Quote from: Ray450R on July 08, 2014, 11:48:00 PM

Can someone give me a part number from digikey on 10uF capacitors for a OKR-T10 Build. Thanks

Do you mean 22uF? If so page 7

Breaktru · « **Reply #431 on:** July 09, 2014, 05:57:46 AM »

If you do use a cap for the input, see http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/C3225X5R1C226K250AA/?qs=NRhsANhppD9EOZrmEO6PsQ==

Ray450R · « **Reply #432 on:** July 09, 2014, 12:42:20 PM »

Ok...Thanks a bunch. One more question. What ptc fuses should I use? There are so many to choose from. Also why would you put them in parallel?

blkbd · « **Reply #433 on:** July 09, 2014, 11:52:50 PM »

I have a question, I'm working on a T6 build and is it possible to use one four position slide switch instead of two separate switches. I was looking at this http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G-141S-3011/SW120-ND/9610 but unsure if it could be set up to read the voltage and output on the led screen.

Breaktru · « **Reply #434 on:** July 10, 2014, 07:38:20 AM »

Quote from: blkbd on July 09, 2014, 11:52:50 PM

I have a question, I'm working on a T6 build and is it possible to use one four position slide switch instead of two separate switches. I was looking at this http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G-141S-3011/SW120-ND/9610 but unsure if it could be set up to read the voltage and output on the led screen.

Are you using the slide switch for just the meter? If so, see image. If you want the meter on all the time, don't use a tact sw.

blkbd · « **Reply #435 on:** July 10, 2014, 01:26:18 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on July 10, 2014, 07:38:20 AM

Are you using the slide switch for just the meter? If so, see image. If you want the meter on all the time, don't use a tact sw.

I'm looking to keep it clean and have a limited amount of space, The switch would control all functions. Position 1 would be main power off, Position 2 would read the total power of batteries, Position 3 would read output power and last position would keep main power on but the led screen off.

Breaktru · « **Reply #436 on:** July 10, 2014, 06:51:03 PM »

See attached.............

blkbd · « **Reply #437 on:** July 10, 2014, 07:16:55 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on July 10, 2014, 06:51:03 PM

See attached.............

Thank you and I wish I had your knack for electronics.

blkbd · « **Reply #438 on:** July 11, 2014, 02:01:04 AM »

I believe the pic is Mamu's If not let me know so I can acknowledge there work.

But if I'm reading this right is this the proper wiring setup?

Edited by Breaktru:
Your first drawing is WRONG. So I attached a second drawing which is correct.

Breaktru · « **Reply #439 on:** July 11, 2014, 08:40:24 AM »

Yes the original is by Mamu.
I have attached the correct (2nd drawing) in your previous post.

blkbd · « **Reply #440 on:** July 11, 2014, 01:32:19 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on July 11, 2014, 08:40:24 AM

Yes the original is by Mamu.
I have attached the correct (2nd drawing) in your previous post.

Thank you this forum is great and thanks to Mamu for her helpful drawings.

Ray450R · « **Reply #441 on:** July 12, 2014, 12:26:56 AM »

I have capacitors but they are SMD. How do I know what side is positive? Thanks

blkbd · « **Reply #442 on:** July 12, 2014, 01:19:17 AM »

Quote from: Ray450R on July 12, 2014, 12:26:56 AM

I have capacitors but they are SMD. How do I know what side is positive? Thanks

There should a + on one side or the longer lead is positive.

CraigHB · « **Reply #443 on:** July 12, 2014, 12:23:17 PM »

SMD capacitors are most commonly ceramic which are not polarized. You can connect them without regard for plus or minus.

Polarized capacitors can be found in a small SMD package similar to the ceramic ones. They're usually the aluminum polymer or tantalum polymer types. Standard tantalums are also commonly found in a small SMD package.

Polarized SMD caps normally have a bar engraved across the case on the positive side. You'll know if you install a polarized cap backwards, they tend to explode when subjected to reverse polarity.

Ray450R · « **Reply #444 on:** July 14, 2014, 07:33:00 PM »

Thanks guys for the help!!! 1 more question. What p - channel mosfet should I use in my build with the okr-t10? Is has to be small for I can fit it in my enclosure.

CraigHB · « **Reply #445 on:** July 15, 2014, 08:58:43 AM »

If you don't mind making a little host board for one and mounting the part, you can go pretty small, this one would work well;

http://www.vishay.com/docs/62909/si7655adn.pdf

This one would be about the smallest you can go in a leaded package;

http://www.vishay.com/docs/65748/SI4497DY.pdf

Here's one with ESD protection;

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FD/FDS6681Z.pdf

Ctarno · « **Reply #446 on:** July 27, 2014, 03:20:12 AM »

I really want anyone to make a video about building an okr! I am ready to just throw things out the window! Schematics confuse me! Angry angry angry! Sorry rant over! Have a great night

merkez · « **Reply #447 on:** August 01, 2014, 05:23:02 PM »

@Breaktru: Hi, Thanks for this detailed information and schematics as right now I am also working on with OKR-T3 module so hopefully it will be very helpful for me.

printed circuit board assembly

Breaktru · « **Reply #448 on:** August 01, 2014, 07:17:40 PM »

Glad the info in this OKR topic has been beneficial.

improntus · « **Reply #449 on:** August 05, 2014, 02:02:45 PM »

Hi..

If I replace the 220ohm fixed resistor with 200ohm, and the trimpot from 200ohm to 220ohm, what volt. range should i'll get? I do not have the parts to chek by myself and i don't know how to calculate