OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit

[Breaktru]

Hi..

If I replace the 220ohm fixed resistor with 200ohm, and the trimpot from 200ohm to 220ohm, what volt. range should i'll get? I do not have the parts to chek by myself and i don't know how to calculate

Approximately 3.4v to 6.4V

[improntus]

a little out of specs..

Great! thankyou

[JUICYOHMS]

Hello All...

What would cause a previously perfectly working OKRT10 to start auto-firing just 1 day after a fresh build ?
I'm using the 4.7k pull down across 1 & 3, 22uf across 2-3...When I disconnect power from pin 1 and just use pushbutton to open/close on pin 2 it works fine as shown in O.P. diagram. I've got another box setup just like this using the 4.7k between 1-3 and it works fine. I also have replaced the 4.7k with another new one & it's still auto firing...I'm confused because it was working perfect, then just started this all on it's own. So to recap, when I disconnect pin 1 and just use pin 2 with pushbutton in between main power lead it works fine.

I'm getting power to the chip fine, and it's sending power out fine, just auto fires when I use pin 1 in the circuit now, & did not have this issue at first.

Thanks in Advance...

Feeling confused because I've built a few functional boxes, and they all work typically first try because I always double-check everything when assembling.

[Breaktru]

JuicyOhms, Perhaps this OKR is a bit temperamental than the others that you have used 
As a test: try replacing the 4.7K with a 1K resistor. If that works then go up in value until you find the highest resistance that works successfully. Just note that the lower the resistance the more current drain on the battery.

[JUICYOHMS]

TY Breaktru...

Is this the only thing it could be other than a faulty chip pretty much?

Cheers

[Misturbubles]

Hello everyone.  Been reading here for the longest and decided to building me an OKR T10 mod. Hope someone may have a solution for me.... Had everything all hooked up and running just fine then somehow I shorted my volt meter out and now the mod doesn't want to fire. Any ideas what it could be? Power is all still there. At one point, I was getting a constant reading out of the 510 (auto firing) but then it was going after readjusting some connection and now nothing happens when I fire. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

[Breaktru]

TY Breaktru...

Is this the only thing it could be other than a faulty chip pretty much?

Cheers

Pin 1 to ground (-) will turn off the OKR. Using a resistor from pin 1 to ground reduces the current drain. As per datasheet for On/Off Remote (pin 1): OFF = –0.3 to +0.4 V. max. or ground pin.
Check the voltage on pin 1 and see if it is less than 0.4v. If it's higher the OKR will remain on. What can cause this? A poor solder connection on pin 1 to the resistor and/or resistor to ground which will add to the resistance of the remote on/off control. Or maybe a damaged OKR.
Also use your ohmmeter and measure your 4.7k resistor. Measure the resistor OUT of the circuit. Not connected.
Note: grounding pin 1 will turn off the OKR if you want to test if the OKR is bad.

[spadge3k00]

hi guys, new to the forum and to modding infact but have built a fair few boxes, none quite like you guys have but i have a question regarding the op diagram, i have my favorite pot wich is 220 ohm, how and what does this affect or change? appreciate the input,

btw nice work 

[Breaktru]

hi guys, new to the forum and to modding infact but have built a fair few boxes, none quite like you guys have but i have a question regarding the op diagram, i have my favorite pot wich is 220 ohm, how and what does this affect or change? appreciate the input,

btw nice work 

Welcome to the forum spadge.



Using the chart we find a total of 420 ohms suites most users output voltage needs. (220 ohm fixed resistor + 200 ohm pot)
The lower resistance gives you the high end of the output V range. Like when you zero out the pot and only the fixed resistor is in play.
Maxing the pot plus the fixed resistor in series will give you the low end of the output V range.

The pot will effect the low voltage end of the output voltage range as you increase the resistance. If you use a 220 ohm pot with a 200 ohm fixed resistor you can get the 420 ohm rTrim. Your 420 will give you the low voltage bottom of approximately 3.4V but when the pot is zeroed the hi end is 6.5V output.

[spadge3k00]

Thanks for the quick reply. So am I right in thinkin 0.5 volt is wasted as the chip tops at 6volts so therefore the pot is gud for say 80% of the pots turn. How would I go about adjusting the diagrams resistor to accommodate the 220 ohm pot?

[Breaktru]

If you use a 220 ohm fixed w/ a 220 ohm pot, your high end would be 6V and your low end would be approx 3.25V.
The OKR is not capped at 6V, it will be able to see 6.5V. It's just out of spec and not advisable as per the manufacture.

Note: resistors and pots have + and - tolerance so your result depends on the tolerance of the parts.

[spadge3k00]

Ok cheers. Thanks so much for the help. Will post results in a few days

[davidegee]

Thanks for this thread. I put a t10 in a tin and it vape very nicely.  I have 3 more to try and make something a bit prettier in future too!

[Breaktru]

Thanks for this thread. I put a t10 in a tin and it vape very nicely.  I have 3 more to try and make something a bit prettier in future too!

Congrats david. Good for you

[spadge3k00]

Here's how I got on . much love guys 

[Breaktru]

Well done spadge  Congrats on your build 

[david4500]

Here's how I got on . much love guys 

Single battery???

[spadge3k00]

2 18350s stacked , really surprised as its lasted me over half a day on 700 mah lol well impressed

[spadge3k00]

sorry my bad,should of shown more specific, here we go

[Misturbubles]

Hey guys, I just wanted to thank everyone that has posted on here since it started. I finished my mod yesterday after much research, trial and error, and  frustration. Currently on the road but will post pictures when I get the chance last. Thank you  so much,  everyone. Especially Breakthru and Mamu and anyone else that posted schematics,  help tips or replies to other's questions. I hope everyone has a very great day!!

[Breaktru]

Welcome to the forum Misturbubles. I'm glad this thread has helped.
You have a great day as well

[itsmedant]

Hey everyone! First off, want to say thank you to everyone on here, I have gained so much knowledge from everyone on here!

Long time reader first time poster! I thought I could get through my entire build without asking for help....but last night proved me wrong.

I finally got everything wired up and put into the box, threw my batteries in, put my trusty tugboat (wrapped at .4 ohms) and went outside to try it out (just in case it blew up and caught fire!)

I started with the pot turned all the way down...took a few hits and it was beautiful. Then I tried to turn it up a bit. Got nothing after this.....

The mod would only work when the pot was at the lowest setting, anything higher than that and I got nothing. I then noticed a funny smell so i took the batteries out and started poking around. The wire connected to the first pin on the pot (and that goes to the ground on the first battery) was completely melted. All the insulation had been fried!


So my question is....if I replace this wire with a higher gauge (i think i used 22 solid core wire) will this fix the issue of melted insulation and a non functional pot? Or do you guys think that the pot is dead and I will only be able to use it at its lowest setting?


Thanks again for any input on this guys!! You're  my only hope!

[itsmedant]

Oh and I'm using a schematic similar to the Duke and Cujo's mods. I'll find the link if its needed!!

[Breaktru]

Welcome itsmedant.

Not sure what the duke and cujo schematic consists of.

No, replacing the wire with a heavier gauge will not fix it. 22 ga is fine.
Sounds like a short. Double check your wiring and compare it carefully to the schematic.

[itsmedant]

Would a short cause the pot to not work?

I'm going to scan through everything tonight and see what happened. I also noticed on the battery in that sled, there were some burn marks on the battery....I wonder if the battery shorted in the sled and caused the entire issue.


So many variables!!

Thanks for the reply!

[itsmedant]

http://imgur.com/psiVulh

This is the schem I followed.

[itsmedant]

I have another question that may lead to the solution!

I am using the fat daddy spring loaded 510 connector. I was looking through pictures of other peoples builds and found this picture of a dna 30 build using the same 510 connector. http://i.imgur.com/pglXS4S.jpg

Notice the grounding tab is bent up so that the wire isn't touching the body of the mod. Mine isn't....meaning the wire connected to that part is in contact with the entire body of the mod.

Is that a bad thing? I figured it would just add to the ground, but would this be the cause of the short?

[blkbd]

Is that a bad thing? I figured it would just add to the ground, but would this be the cause of the short?

No as you surmised it is the ground, But if any wire or lead that is positive has touched the walls then that will lead to a short.

[Breaktru]

That is one poor laid out schematic 

Now you know why it's important to use fuses.
Something is shorted. Is the battery sled secured from moving around? Is the 510 pos and neg free of a short? Triple check ALL wiring.

Do you know where it's required to put heavy wire and light wire? The schematic you used can confuse you as it shows  heavy current wires tapped into a light current wires.

Follow mamu's diagram HERE
Also she substituted the 1K for a 4.7K resistor because of current drain.
I personally don't use the on/off remote pin.

[itsmedant]

I think I'm just going to rip the entire thing apart and start over following the schems on this thread.

As far as the wire thickness goes. Can I use 22 gauge for the entire build or do I need to use something higher for the power and ground?

I'm about to order some of the pots that come in the ranger okr box...I have broken 2 of the other ones (Bourns thumb wheels) trying to get them mounted....May try again though!!

Thanks again for all of your help with this, I really wanna get this thing up and and running soon!!

[Breaktru]

I think I'm just going to rip the entire thing apart and start over following the schems on this thread.

The OKR may have been damaged.

As far as the wire thickness goes. Can I use 22 gauge for the entire build or do I need to use something higher for the power and ground?

For the heavy current, 20 gauge or better.

[itsmedant]

Yea i was worried about the chip being damaged. If it is...the rebuild will be good practice until another one is back in stock.

Everywhere I've looked so far as been out of stock! These things are hard to get your hands on sometimes.

[kurrptsenate]

quick question...

build 3 OKRs so far (more like 5) and they were working great.  my brother broke the pot from over torqueing the thing and I had to completely replace it.  since I built the okr in a 1590g, I pretty much had to remove everything to get to the pot to replace it.  once I put in a new pot and put everything back together, the voltage drop under load is considerably worse. 

how could I go about testing what is actually causing such a large drop in voltage under load? (volt meter I assume)

[itsmedant]

So I just ripped everything apart and the okr looks fine...no scorch marks and it doesn't smell like a burnt out chip. I know there is still a chance it's damaged though.

But I found d something g that I think may be the problem. When I took the pot out, I noticed that underneath the actual thumbwheel, some of the epoxy got under there and covered the contacts. I know this is the reason the pot wouldn't work except on its lowest setting, but do you guys think this could have caused the short?

It's a long shot but I'm hoping it's the case!!

[Breaktru]

quick question...

build 3 OKRs so far (more like 5) and they were working great.  my brother broke the pot from over torqueing the thing and I had to completely replace it.  since I built the okr in a 1590g, I pretty much had to remove everything to get to the pot to replace it.  once I put in a new pot and put everything back together, the voltage drop under load is considerably worse. 

how could I go about testing what is actually causing such a large drop in voltage under load? (volt meter I assume)

Assuming that your batteries are good and that the wires for heavy current are sufficient, I would suspect a cold solder connection.

[kurrptsenate]

Assuming that your batteries are good and that the wires for heavy current are sufficient, I would suspect a cold solder connection.

I used all 20 gauge for all these builds.  mine shows 5.85 volts under load at about .6?.  His device was showing 5.01 under the same load (same atty) after I fixed his device

he was using the LG 35 amp batteries and were fully charged.  ill have to recheck those solder connections but they felt really strong

[Breaktru]

I used all 20 gauge for all these builds.  mine shows 5.85 volts under load at about .6?.  His device was showing 5.01 under the same load (same atty) after I fixed his device

he was using the LG 35 amp batteries and were fully charged.  ill have to recheck those solder connections but they felt really strong

What is your bros output voltage with NO load?

[kurrptsenate]

What is your bros output voltage with NO load?

that I have not checked

but I never checked mine either.  I'll try to do that next time he comes over

[Breaktru]

A voltage drop is the difference of your output voltage with NO load and an output voltage with a load.
Your problem may be the output voltage low to high range which is a formulation of your Trim circuit. Fixed resistor and pot resistance.

[kurrptsenate]

A voltage drop is the difference of your output voltage with NO load and an output voltage with a load.
Your problem may be the output voltage low to high range which is a formulation of your Trim circuit. Fixed resistor and pot resistance.

so you think it could also be an issue of the pot + resistor.  I soldered the resistor right to the pot, then soldered the lead to the resistor...

[kurrptsenate]

The resistor doesn't have be ran a certain direction, right?

[Breaktru]

Unless a voltage reading of the output without a load is taken, we won't know if there is an actual voltage drop.

You will have to make an ohm reading with the resistor plus pot disconnected from Pin 5 and ground. Read resistance with pot in both max and min positions.

[kurrptsenate]

Unless a voltage reading of the output without a load is taken, we won't know if there is an actual voltage drop.

You will have to make an ohm reading with the resistor plus pot disconnected from Pin 5 and ground. Read resistance with pot in both max and min positions.

fair enough

I was just wondering about the other possibility as the connections I had to resolder seemed better than the first time. 

[kurrptsenate]

Just got the chance to test my brothers okr.   Its showing 5.4 volts under NO load

[david4500]

Just got the chance to test my brothers okr.   Its showing 5.4 volts under NO load

What trim resistor and potentiometer are you using?

[kurrptsenate]

200 ohm pot, 220 resistor.  Exact parts in my box mod (made both within a week of each other)

His build was working much better until I had to replace the pot he broke

[Breaktru]

Your 220 ohm fixed resistor may be way over tolerance or not actually a 220 ohm resistor. What tolerance value did you use?
And... did you measure it like I suggested?

[kurrptsenate]

Its a 1/4 watt 220 ohm 2% vishay metal film resistor from mouser.  I didn't get the opportunity to measure the pot plus resistor like you requested.  I didn't want to take his device apart again.

[Breaktru]

To get a 5.4V on max output, the fixed resistor would be 245 ohms. That's more than 10% over. Also check for a cold solder which will add to the trim circuit resistance.
What's the full output range? Min to Max.

[itsmedant]

Do you guys think a bad pot could have caused my short. I looked at everything and nothing else really looked bad